Food & Wine

SUPERCHARGE YOUR SUMMER
#HOWISUMMER
GREEN-MARKET
TACOS
NEXT-LEVEL
JUICES
FOOLPROOF
STEAKS
For
August’s best
salad, toss
tomatoes and
nectarines
with feta.
RECIPE P. 110
DRINK
IT NOW:
ULTIMATE
BEACH &
BBQ WINES
WHY WE’RE
OBSESSED
WITH
AUGUST 2016
PROVENCE
www.foodandwine.com
LIFE IS A SPORT. WE ARE THE UTILITY.
BE UNSTOPPABLE.
FOOD & WINE
AUGUST 112
85
98 43
clockwise from top left: con poulos; eliesa johnson; john kernick (3); wynn myers.
64
44
SUPERCHARGE YOUR SUMMER

on the cover: bowl by jim franco ceramics
Ultimate Provence 78 If You Can’t Stand the Heat 88 Peaches: A Love Story 98
11 Editor’s Letter 12 Hungry Crowd Lena Dunham 14 Healthy Living 7 Days, 7 Juices
23 Trendspotting What’s Hot Now 28 Where to Go Next The Maine Attraction
36 TV Honors Think Like a Top Chef 43 Handbook What to Cook Now 59 The Gastronaut Files Even Easier Than Pie
64 Food Quest United States of Ice Cream 72 Bottle Service How to Chill Wine Fast
74 Wine Talk Summer Wine Questions Answered 114 Most Wanted Travis Lett’s Killer Garlic Aioli BLT
On the cover: Justin Chapple’s Marinated Feta with Nectarine and Tomato Fattoush (p. 110) from “If You Can’t Stand the Heat.”
Photograph by Con Poulos; food styling by Vivian Lui; style editor: Suzie Myers
AU G U S T 2016 2 F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E
RECIPE
INDEX
Starters
● ● ● Cherry Pico de Gallo p. 108
Pasta & Pizza
● Gemelli with Peach–and–Yellow
Staff-Favorite
● ● Chile Oil–Marinated Goat Cheese
p. 82
Tomato Pork Ragù p. 103
● Grilled Pizza with Peaches and
Pairing
● ● Rye Crisps with Tomatoes Aged Cheddar p. 113
and Sardines p. 108 Incredibly
● Salmon Tartare on Instagrammable. Sandwiches & Tacos
Garlic Bread p. 39 Biscuit Breakfast Sandwiches
● ● Scallop Carpaccio with Hand-Cut with Peach-Ginger Jam p. 112
Ginger-Chive Pesto p. 108 ● ● Garlic Aioli BLTs p. 113
● Vegetable-Chicken Summer Rolls ● ● Green-Market Tacos with Corn Crema
p. 90 p. 108
● Tofu Banh Mi Sandwiches p. 92
Salads & Vegetables A microwave
● ● Freekeh with Grilled Tofu and
Desserts is the secret.
Miso-Lime Dressing p. 48
● Apricot Parfaits with Mascarpone
● Marinated Eggplant and Tomato Salad
Whipped Cream p. 95
with Buffalo Mozzarella p. 110
● Blueberry-Nectarine Pandowdy p. 60
● ● Marinated Feta with Nectarine and
● ● Coconut Mochi Ice Cream Sandwiches
Tomato Fattoush p. 110 GRILLED CHICKEN THIGHS
p. 52
Niçoise Salad with Baby Artichokes WITH PICKLED PEACHES
● Marbled Smoothie Pops p. 18
p. 86 with
● ● Mixed-Fruit Cornmeal Cobbler p. 60
● ● Soft Green-Herb Omelet p. 24
● Peach-Buttermilk Ice Cream p. 104
2014 Jean-Marc Burgaud
● Spinach-and-Ricotta-Stuffed Château de Thulon Beaujolais
Tomatoes with Piquillo Peppers ● Peach Hand Pies p. 112
Villages (p. 104).
p. 106
● ● Tomatoes with Herbs and Almond Drinks
Vinaigrette p. 44 ● ● Aquavit and Fresh Tomato
● Watermelon and Snap Pea Salad with Bloody Marys p. 18
Mint p. 110 ● ● Cantaloupe Juice with Ginger
and Lime p. 18
Meat & Poultry ● ● Electro Shot p. 16
● Bone-In Rib Eye Steaks with ● The Giant Peach p. 110
Grilled Onion Jam p. 46 ● ● ● Health Juice p. 16
● Grilled Chicken Thighs with ● ● Normandie Club Spritz p. 26
Pickled Peaches p. 104
● ● ● Purple Haze p. 16
● Pan-Roasted Chicken with
● ● Rosé Sangria with a Mixed-Berry
Green Olives and Garlic p. 106
Ice Ring p. 50
Sausages with Peaches and
● ● Turmeric Elixir p. 14
Pickled Chiles p. 104
● Vinho Verde Sangria with a Mint-and-
Cucumber Ice Ring p. 50
Fish & Shellfish GRILLED FISH WITH TAPENADE
Citrus-and-Herb-Marinated Shrimp AND SMOKY RATATOUILLE
p. 46 Freeze the
ice in a with
● ● Grilled Fish with Tapenade and
Bundt pan. 2015 Sulauze Côteaux
Smoky Ratatouille p. 85
d’Aix-en-Provence Pomponette
● Marinated Tuna with Chickpeas
rosé (p. 85).
and Shishitos p. 108
Red Snapper with Sweet and
Spicy Pickled Grapes p. 39
● Squid and Summer Vegetable Salad
from top: john kernick; con poulos
with Preserved Lemon Dressing

p. 82
SNAP TO SUBSCRIBE TO
FOOD & WINE FOR $1 PER ISSUE!
Scan this code on your smartphone
to subscribe to Food & Wine.
● fast ● vegetarian ● staff favorite

recipe key Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Contains no meat, poultry or seafood. Recipe we especially love.
WHEN YOU SHIP WITH US,
YOUR BUSINESS BECOMES OUR BUSINESS.
That’s why we make more eCommerce deliveries to homes than anyone else in the country.
Learn more at usps.com/deliver
Trademarks are used with permission. Appearance does not constitute a USPS endorsement. United States Postal Service. All Rights Reserved. The Eagle Logo is among the many trademarks of the U.S. Postal Service®.
What’s your editor Nilou Motamed
favorite summer I drizzle olive oil on
condiment? creative director Fredrika Stjärne
everything, from roast
executive managing editor Mary Ellen Ward chicken to toast. One
executive editor Pamela Kaufman of my current favorites
deputy editor Christine Quinlan is from Mandranova,
executive food editor Tina Ujlaki a resort in Sicily.
executive wine editor Ray Isle
digital director Alex Vallis
feat ures fo o d
restaurant editor Kate Krader food director Kate Heddings
deputy digital editor Lawrence Marcus test kitchen senior editors
I’m super into all style editor Suzie Myers Justin Chapple, Kay Chun
the hot reds now, associate editors test kitchen associate editor Anna Painter
especially harissa, Carson Demmond (Wine), Noah Kaufman assistant editor Julia Heffelfinger
assistant editor Brianna Wippman
the Tunisian chile test kitchen assistant Emily Tylman
It has to be
editorial assistants Morgan Goldberg, intern Mandy Maxwell
paste. My top choices Annie P. Quigley hot sauce. Frank’s for
are Villa Jerada, NY wine intern Deanna Gonnella a rt breakfast (eggs, in
art director James Maikowski
Shuk and Mahjoub. copy & resea rc h associate art director Kelly McGuire
particular); Sriracha
copy chief Elizabeth Herr for chicken, beef and
designer Mark Romero
senior editor Amanda Woytus pork; and Tabasco
associate research editor p h oto for potato salad,
Erin Laverty Healy photo editor Sara Parks deviled eggs and
new york university food studies intern photo assistant Rebecca Delman
Bloody Marys.
Laura Grahame
p ro duct i o n
bo o ks Joseph Colucci (Director),
editor Susan Choung Patrick Sheehan, Nestor Cervantes
intern Taylor Rondestvedt associate digital producer Elsa Säätelä
c hefs - i n - res i d e n ce
Grant Achatz, Hugh Acheson, José Andrés, Mario Batali, I love yuzu kosho,
April Bloomfield, Anthony Bourdain, David Chang, the Japanese
Roy Choi, Jacques Pépin, Eric Ripert, Andrew Zimmern
fermented chile
co n t ri buto rs and citrus paste.
Daniel Duane, Anthony Giglio, Paolo Lucchesi, Ivy Manning, I mix it with
Amanda McClements, Jim Meehan,
Erin Murray, Amy Rosen, Jane Sigal, Jennifer Sommer, ginger, garlic and
I always keep Emily Kaiser Thelin, Gisela Williams olive oil to use
Hellmann’s mayo in my as a marinade or
fridge—as giant a jar t i m e i n c.
chief executive officer Joseph Ripp vinaigrette.
as possible. I can’t eat
chief content officer Norman Pearlstine
a burger or French executive vice president Evelyn Webster
fries without it. executive vice president, chief financial officer Jeff Bairstow
executive vice presidents
Rich Battista, Leslie Dukker Doty, Mark Ford,
Greg Giangrande, Lawrence A. Jacobs, Steve Marcopoto,
Erik Moreno, Evelyn Webster, Jennifer L. Wong
president, fashion & luxury MaryAnn Bekkedahl
co m m un i cat i o n s
senior vice presidents Daniel Kile, Scott Novak
director Elizabeth Curtis Marsh
o p e rat i o n s
vice president Jerry Faust
makeup, positioning and production manager Jamie Elliott
ad production specialist Abhinandan Jayaraju
hum a n resources I’m hooked on

vice president Stacie Sullivan
Chef Ketchup, an
manager Jen Bradway
Irish brand. It’s
by far the tastiest
ketchup, with a
tangy hint of malt
vinegar.
Occasionally, FOOD & WINE makes portions of our magazine subscriber lists available to carefully screened companies that offer special products and services. Any subscriber
who does not want to receive mailings from third-party companies should contact Subscriber Services at 800-333-6569 or write to: TCS, P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662-2160.
FOOD & WINE is a trademark of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries.
For reprint information, contact: PARS International Corp., 212-221-9595 or

reprints@parsintl.com; magreprints.com. FOOD & WINE Cookbooks Service, 800-284-4145.
printed in the u.s.a.

s.v.p./publisher Christina Grdovic Baltz
associate publisher Alex DeSanctis

v.p./digital Nick Van Sicklen
executive director of marketing Vanessa Feimer Davis
general manager, digital lifestyle Mike Rich
a dvert i si ng sa l es m a rke t i n g
new york sales office 212-522-2285 brand marketing director Sonia Zala Spina
account directors Caroline Donohue, Whitney Frahm, senior brand marketing manager Shanette Vega
Leora Kulak, Michael Papadeas, Jodisue Rosen brand marketing manager Swathi Reddy
advertising director, digital Jennifer Bayard Particelli events marketing director Diella Koberstein Allen
associate director, sales planning Jennifer McGuirl events marketing manager Amanda Gawrgy
digital sales managers Brittany Auer, Sasha Kravetz events marketing associate manager Amanda Meier
senior account executive, local/regional Jared Feinman events marketing assistant Sarah Ensign
digital account executive Anna Pepe integrated marketing director Keira Ford Schuler
associate director, digital creative services Jillian Nugent senior integrated marketing managers
senior manager, digital creative services Jennifer Bowman Ashley Burke, Antonia LoPresti Giglio
associate manager, digital creative services integrated marketing manager Leslie Rubin
Francesca Scutari integrated marketing associates
manager, sales planning Jennifer Scherr Erin Kenney, Rachel Starnes
digital sales planners creative director Rory Tischler
Shari Brown, Becky Carroll, Michael Pescuma senior designer Jon Varriano
manager, digital account services Kaitlin O’Brien designers Adam Hitt, Kate Meadows
digital account manager Mikela Warman marketing assistant Luis Zepeda
sales assistants Rebekah Daniels, Sophie Doering, special projects director Gail Simmons
Kellyn McCarthy special projects producer Devin Padgett
bra nc h of f i ces reve n ue & i n n ovat i o n

detroitdetrodddetroit 248-988-7763 president and coo Mark Ellis
director Diane Paglino president, pharmaceutical category Greg Schumann
assistant Kristin Rentschler president, technology/telecommunications category
Brendan Ripp
los angelesouthwest 310-268-7644 senior vice president Andy Blau (finance)
southwest account director Jennifer Fan s.v.p., editorial innovation Matt Bean
digital account directors Caroline Bales, Jessica Neal v.p., sales Lauren Newman
midwestfffmidwest 312-321-7909 v.p., digital Dan Realson
account director Hannah McHale v.p., creative director Cara Deoul Perl
digital account manager Angela Raile v.p., marketing ad solutions Steve Cambron
sales assistant Caily Gallagher v.p., strategic client solutions Christine Wu
v.p., finance Lori Dente
san francisco
v.p., business research & insights Caryn Klein
415-496-2700
v.p., digital ad operations Nancy Mynio
director Steve Dveris
v.p., yield and programmatic Kavata Mbondo
account managers
executive office manager Lori Kaplan
Jennifer Banks, Sydney Brody
sales coordinator Amy Kenney aud i e n ce d eve lo p m e n t
manager Geneva S. Thomas
southeast 404-888-1960
senior e-newsletter producer Duangkaew Randall
director Stephen Wolek
coordinator Stacey Harrington
sales support Ruby McQueen
co n sum e r m a rke t i n g
florida/caribbean & central/
s.v.p., data strategy, analytics & operations Ron Adiel
south america
senior vice president Stephen Selwood
305-648-3338 vice presidents Rachel Osborne, Stephanie Solomon
director Jill Stone
senior director Melissa Mahoney
managers Eric Davis, Michael Fenkell, director Alexis Mate
Rachel Sanders consumer insight director Richard Zartarian
sales coordinator Natalie Trzcinski managers Marissa Englander, Jennifer Flynn,
texas 214-368-2001 Claudia Garay, Julia Sternfeld
directors Jamie Majecki, Jeanne Milligan associate manager Olivia Jorgensen
sales assistant Kristy Sims f i n a n ce
hawaii 808-377-1900 senior vice president Alison Fried
director Liane Sunn vice president Keith Strohmeier
executive director C. Daniel Kawasaki
canada 905-885-0664
associate finance director Brad Scharff
directors Bob Dodd, Lori Dodd
analyst Katie Leonard
account manager Leslie Thomas
l ega l a f fa i rs
mexico 011-52-55-5202-6412 v.p./deputy general counsel
director Pablo Glogovsky Steven Weissman
united kingdom 011-44-20-3263-6120 director Jane Halpern
director Jeremy Butchers d i gi ta l asse ts & ri gh ts
italy 011-39-031-267-797 associate director Jeniqua Moore
managing director Emilio Zerboni manager Erika Nusser Reilly
associate manager Tawana Porter
d i gi ta l m e d i a
head of product, food Alisa Warshawski tec h n o lo gy & p ro duct e n gi n e e ri n g
senior vice president Kurt Rao
t ime i nc. p re m e d i a vice presidents Alam Ali, Linda Apsley, Adam Days,
executive director Rick Prue Robert Duffy, Amanda Hanes, Hugues Hervouet,
senior manager Lionel Vargas Simon Loxham, Leon Misiukiewicz, Keith O’Sullivan,
senior associate Yasmin Herrera Ben Ramadan, Raji Ramamoorthy, Brian Reiss,
Paul Rivenburg, Ashis Roy, Jason Stein
©Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2015
life is
trying
a recipe
that’s
adventurous,
and a kitchen
where finding
the tools isn’t
SEKTION/BROKHULT
kitchen
$
2799*
*Based on a 10'×10' kitchen
IKEA-USA.com/kitchen
EDITOR’S
LETTER
D
ID WE GO OVERBOARD on the tomatoes?
I think we got too many tomatoes.”
This is the inevitable refrain as
my husband and I return to our beach-
cottage kitchen after a visit to the
farmers’ market in Portland, Maine.
We’ve filled a dozen cardboard flats with
our loot, leaving no heirloom varietal unclaimed: Green
Zebras, Brandywines, Sun Golds, Cherokee Purples. The
answer? Yes, we most certainly went overboard on the
tomatoes. But, hey, that’s what August is for. For most of the
year, as locals will tell you, Maine is not exactly blessed with
fresh produce. So when that fleeting reprieve of midsummer
rolls around, everyone is in a giddy panic. Us included.
That’s why, every year at about this time, we pack our
knives and go—northbound on I-95, with a carful of rosé, books,
beach towels and kitchen essentials. We’ve been making
this trip for 15 years. It’s a ritual we begin dreaming about things that draw me to Maine are the same things that pull
again from the moment we return to New York. me to vacationing in the south of France: the sun-dappled
A stop at the Saturday farmers’ market in Deering Oaks Park lunches that segue into dinner; the Instagram-worthy
is our first order of business, as we fill the trunk and backseat markets; the smells of salt air and sunscreen mingling with
with a few acres’ worth of produce. We could happily spend all flowers; and a refreshingly unfussy style of cooking and
our time in that rickety rental-house kitchen, with the screen eating. While the two places couldn’t be more different on the
door open to a beach-rose-scented breeze. Fortunately, we don’t surface, both speak to elemental pleasures, and to our urge to
have to. This is the season where you don’t need a stove or slow down, relax and remind ourselves how sweet sun-ripened
even a grill to make a great meal—see our “no-cook” primer cantaloupes can be. (And did I mention the rosé?)
on page 88 for what you can create with So maybe I’ll see you in Maine this
just a sharp knife and perfect ingredients. month. But now that I know that Julia
(That gorgeous stone fruit–tomato–feta Child’s Provençal hideaway is available to
salad on our cover will certainly be one of rent—no joke—I’m fantasizing about all
our Maine go-to’s.) the delicious things I could make in that
This month in Food & Wine, we’re kitchen, from a tuna niçoise (p. 86) to
celebrating the unbridled joys of summer— a simply grilled fish with ratatouille and
including a feature on everyone’s favorite tapenade (p. 85).
fantasy food destination, Provence (p. 78), We’re excited to hear what inspires
and, as it happens, a look at Portland’s you this summer, so please share your
from top: sven eselgroth; peter jon lindberg
burgeoning food scene (p. 28). It struck me, discoveries with us on Twitter and
while reading those two stories, that the Instagram and tag them #howisummer.
Pine Point Beach in
Scarborough, Maine, where you’ll
find me come August.
Nilou Motamed, Editor

@niloumotamed
F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E 11 AU G U S T 2016
FASTEN YOUR
EVERYTHING
THE CAPTIVATING RC F SPORT

Engineered for maximum power and precision handling, the RC Turbo, RC 300 and RC 350 F SPORT models
were wrapped in a dynamically contoured body to grab your attention at every turn. Its wide stance and low
profile deliver increased stability, and 19-inch alloy wheels1 complete its aggressive look. Under the hood, it
boasts an available 306-horsepower,2 3.5-liter V6 engine paired with an eight-speed sequential paddle-shift
transmission (RWD). And inside the cockpit, an available LFA-inspired gauge cluster keeps you informed,
while deeply bolstered front sport seats keep you firmly planted through the curves. The RC F SPORT from
Lexus. Once driven, there’s no going back.
lexus.com/RC | #LexusRC
Options shown. 1. 19-in performance tires are expected to experience greater tire wear than conventional tires. Tire life may be substantially less than 15,000 miles, depending upon driving conditions.
2. Ratings achieved using the required premium unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 91 or higher. If premium fuel is not used, performance will decrease. ©2016 Lexus
HEALTHY
LIVING
MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY

Turmeric Health Purple Electro Marbled Smoothie Cantaloupe with Fresh Tomato
7
Elixir Juice Haze Shot Pops Ginger and Lime Bloody Mary
Days, MONDAY
food stylist: hadas smirnoff; style editor: suzie myers. glass by deborah ehrlich from march
If the weekend was
7 Juices
particularly hard on your
liver, this invigorating
drink from the F&W Test
Kitchen is an ideal detox.
It’s spiked with “it” ingredient
turmeric, known for having
anti-inflammatory properties.
HERE’S HOW TO TURN PEAK SUMMER
PRODUCE INTO SUPERCHARGED Turmeric Elixir
DRINKS OF ALL KINDS, INCLUDING In a saucepan, bring 2½ cups
UNEXPECTED SMOOTHIES AND water to a boil with ¼ cup
ONE HECK OF A FRESH BLOODY MARY. honey, one 4-inch cinnamon
BY JULIA HEFFELFINGER
stick and 2 cardamom pods
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CON POULOS over moderate heat. Remove from
the heat; add 2 large mint
leaves, 2 pinches cayenne and
¼ tsp. fine sea salt and whisk
until the salt is dissolved. Let cool
to room temperature, then
refrigerate until chilled. Discard
the cinnamon stick, cardamom
and mint. In an electric juicer,
juice 4 oz. fresh turmeric and one
4-inch piece of fresh ginger.
Whisk the turmeric juice with
the honey syrup and 1½ tsp. fresh
lemon juice. Serve cold. Makes
two 12-oz. drinks. —Anna Painter
NOW BOARDING
EVERY FLIGHT, EVERY AIRLINE
EVERY DAY.
With Venture® from Capital One, you earn UNLIMITED double
miles on EVERY purchase. Then you can use your miles and book
ANY flight on ANY airline at ANY time.
Credit approval required. Redeem miles for travel on any airline based on actual ticket price at time of purchase.
Offered by Capital One Bank (USA), N.A. © 2016 Capital One
Healthy Living Juices
TUESDAY
Editor Nilou Motamed is
obsessed with this sweet-
tart green juice from
L.A.’s dreamy Hotel Bel-Air.
Health Juice
In an electric juicer, juice THURSDAY
3 quartered Granny Smith ap- This vitamin C–packed
ples with 2 peeled lemons, shot is an immunity
4 cups chopped Tuscan kale booster. It’s a favorite at
leaves, 1 cup packed parsley NYC’s Joe & The Juice,
sprigs and 1 celery rib. Stir in the new outpost of a
1½ tsp. ground turmeric and Copenhagen cult favorite.
serve chilled.
Makes two 12-oz. drinks. Electro Shot
Fill a glass measuring cup
with ice and place it
under the spout of an electric
juicer. Juice 1 quartered
WEDNESDAY
large fennel bulb and 1 quar-
tered Granny Smith apple
into the measuring cup. Strain
Get over your hump-
the juice into four 2-oz.
day blues with this sweet-
savory stunner from glasses and serve immediately.
Chicago’s Left Coast Food + Makes 4 shots.
Juice. Superstar chef
Paul Kahan helped create
the drinks menu.
Purple Haze
In an electric juicer, juice
1 peeled, quartered medium
red beet, 1 quartered
Granny Smith apple, 1 chopped
medium carrot, 1 peeled
orange and one 4-inch piece
of fresh ginger. Stir in 1/8 tsp.
fine Himalayan pink salt and
serve chilled. Makes two
8-oz. drinks. —Brad Alexander
Healthy Living Juices
FRIDAY SUNDAY
Kick back on Summer Retox with this light,
Friday with this ice pop fresh, anise-laced
from the new book
Green Kitchen Smoothies SATURDAY Bloody Mary (delicious
with or without booze)
by Swedish blogger Now that your local from Spoon and Stable
couple David Frenkiel farmers’ market in Minneapolis.
and Luise Vindahl. is overflowing with
cantaloupe, turn some of it Aquavit and Fresh
Marbled Smoothie Pops into this tropical juice Tomato Bloody Mary
In a blender, puree 3 chopped from the F&W Test Kitchen. In a blender, puree 1½ lbs.
medium bananas with The trick: freezing ripe red tomatoes with
2 cups full-fat Greek yogurt, the fruit first to add body. 2 cups peeled and chopped
2 Tbsp. honey and 1 tsp. English cucumber, 2 Tbsp.
vanilla extract. Transfer Cantaloupe Juice with chopped dill, 1 Tbsp. grated
1½ cups of the banana Ginger and Lime fresh horseradish, 1 Tbsp.
smoothie to a medium bowl. Spread 2 cups each chopped fresh lemon juice and ¼ oz.
Add 1 cup fresh or frozen cantaloupe and pineapple crumbled dried shiitake
berries and an additional on a rimmed baking sheet mushrooms. Season with salt
2 Tbsp. honey to the lined with parchment and pepper. Strain through
blender and puree with the paper. Freeze until just frozen, a fine sieve set over a pitcher,
remaining banana smoothie. about 30 minutes. In an pressing on the solids.
Spoon 2 Tbsp. of the banana electric juicer, juice the fruit For each drink, fill a cocktail
smoothie into the bottom with a 2-inch piece of shaker with ice and shake
of ten 3-oz. ice pop molds. Top fresh ginger and half a lime. ¾ cup of the Bloody Mary mix
with 2 Tbsp. of the berry Makes two 8-oz. drinks. with ¼ cup aquavit or vodka
smoothie, then add the re- —Emily Tylman (optional). Strain into an ice-
maining banana smoothie. filled highball glass. Garnish
Using a skewer, lightly swirl each Bloody Mary with a dill
the layers for a marbled effect. sprig, cucumber slice and
Insert the sticks and freeze lemon wedge and serve imme-
until very firm, about 4 hours. diately. Makes 4 cocktails.
Makes 10 ice pops.
AT LAST, A WAY
TO EXPERIENCE
ASPEN AT HOME
For the first time ever, KitchenAid brought the FOOD & WINE
Classic in Aspen to you. Exclusive recipes. Ingredient lists.
Chef tutorials. Everything needed to have dinner with us.
Read on to see how the meal was brought to life.
HAVE DINNER WITH US

KitchenAid.com/AspenDinner
FOR THOSE
CRAVING A
TASTE OF
ASPEN
Chef Chris Cosentino demonstrated
how to cook his festival dinner using
KitchenAid appliances, and now you
can get the recipes and make the
same meal at home anytime.
KitchenAid.com/AspenDinner
COURSE 1:
CRUSHED AVOCADO
& PEA BRUSCHETTA
WITH MINT AND
CURED EGG YOLK
Chef Cosentino’s refreshing
take on bruschetta includes
shaved cured egg yolk, which
adds a unique richness to
the dish.
advertisement
COURSE 2:
BRAISED LAMB
SHOULDER WITH
CLAMS, PICKLED
CHILIES AND MINT
In this new take on surf and
turf, Chef Cosentino perfectly
marries briny clams and
succulent lamb shoulder
packed with umami flavor.
COURSE 3:
BAY LEAF PANNA
COTTA WITH
STRAWBERRIES,
BALSAMIC AND
BLACK PEPPER
This bright yet rich
panna cotta is infused
with aromatic bay leaf,
then garnished with
strawberries dressed
in tangy balsamic.
PHOTOS: MARC FIORITO
WHAT’S HOT NOW
TREND Make the

Most of
Summer
SPOTTING
Skinless, boneless
Sardines with garlic Sardine roe sardines in spiced olive oil
+ + +
Sliced tomatoes Sour cream Avocado
+ + +
Olive bread Potato chips Pita chips
POP OPEN
IF ANYTHING IS going to turn Americans on to the joy of sardines, it’s the
outstanding ones now available from A Banca da Sardinha. The Lisbon-
sardinha comunicação
based company sells plump little fish caught off the Portuguese coast,
A PICNIC flavoring some with garlic or tinning just the roe. Check out our
suggestions above for ways to transform a single can into an outdoor feast.
From $3 for 4 oz.; amazon.com.
BY RYAN HARRINGTON & MANDY MAXWELL
Trendspotting What’s Hot Now
Pack a
Feel-Good
Sandwich
Homegrown, the
Washington-based mini
chain, layers eco ethics
into its sandwiches. The
company is preparing
3
to bring creations like its
Avocado, Fried Egg and
Cheddar (bottom) to San
RAID YOUR
Francisco next month.
HERB GARDEN
A Modern Way to Cook by British author Anna Jones (dubbed
0
NUMBER OF TRASH
clockwise from top: andy ford; ilana freddye; courtesy of glenmorangie and finlay & co.
the new Nigella Lawson) is a vegetarian bible. Fresh CANS IN SHOPS;
EVERYTHING IS RECYCLABLE
herbs, such as the ones used in this fast egg recipe, are key. OR COMPOSTABLE.
Soft Green-Herb Omelet pepper. In a large nonstick skil-

FAST
10
Total 15 min; Serves 2 let, melt the butter over
4 large eggs
moderate heat until it begins to
foam. Add the eggs and cook
HERB
½ cup finely chopped mixed
herbs, such as mint,
undisturbed until just starting
to set on the bottom, about
FIXES
parsley, dill, chives, 30 seconds. Using a fork, gen- BLEND herbs, lemon LOCATIONS AND COUNTING
tarragon, chervil and basil juice and sea salt
tly pull the cooked eggs at
with olive oil and toss
30
Kosher salt and pepper the edge into the center, tilting into salads or
to allow the uncooked eggs to serve with flatbreads.
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
run onto the pan. When most
½ cup chopped raw spinach MIX herbs, lemon zest
of the omelet is set, let it and a little salt and
¼ cup crumbled feta cheese cook undisturbed for 1 minute pepper with yogurt
longer. Remove from the heat. for a simple dressing.
½ tsp. finely grated AGE OF THE
Sprinkle the chopped spinach, CHOP herbs, citrus
lemon zest CO-FOUNDERS
feta and lemon zest over half zest, chiles, garlic
In a medium bowl, beat the of the omelet. Using a spatula, and sea salt, and use
1,100
eggs with the herbs and a fold the omelet over to form to spike soups
generous pinch each of salt and a half-moon, slide it onto a plate and vegetable dishes.
and serve immediately.
AVOCADOS USED
PER WEEK AT
ALL THEIR SHOPS
Finlay & Co. made

1,843 pairs of these
glasses to mark
the year Glenmorangie
was founded.
[ STYLE TREND ]
DRINK IN THE VIEW

For whisky geeks who see the world through the lens of their obsession: sunglasses by
Finlay & Co., made from Glenmorangie Distillery’s Scotch casks. $450; finlayandco.com.
Trendspotting What’s Hot Now
Shellfish, LEFT, is the

specialty at Whaley’s
in Washington, DC.
FOLLOW AMBITIOUS FOOD OUTSIDE

THE YARDS PARK, PHS POP UP GARDENS , THE HOLLYWOOD BOWL, RIIS PARK BEACH BAZAAR,
WASHINGTON, DC PHILADELPHIA At the LOS ANGELES F&W Best New BROOKLYN Whitney Aycock
Washingtonians are heading revitalized Viaduct Rail Park, Chef Suzanne Goin has taken brings his terrific, no-
to the park on the Anacostia local-hero chefs Jason over the food at the concert substitutions wood-oven pies
River for seafood towers Cichonski and Sylva Senat are venue, serving cheeseburgers to the pavilion at Jacob
at Nick and David Wiseman’s serving dishes like guacamole and wood-grilled fish. Riis Park in the Rockaways.
new raw bar, Whaley’s. and kimchi salsa with hollywoodbowl.com. riisparkbeachbazaar.com.
whaleysdc.com. plenty of beer. phsonline.org.
[ DISPATCH ] [ COCKTAIL ]
Head to the
State Fair SPRITZ IT
The cocktail that rules the
The iconic Minnesota summer is the spritz:
State Fair (August 25– refreshingly bubbly, low
top: rey lopez (2). bottom: photograph by david malosh; stylist: adrienne anderson
proof and slightly bitter.
September 5), one of At The Normandie Club in
America’s biggest, L.A., Devon Tarby’s
is expected to draw grapefruit-inflected
version is so popular,
1.8 million visitors— customers can
many of whom will order it by the bottle.
eat food on a stick. Normandie Club Spritz
There will be over Makes 1 drink
75 kinds of skewered In a cocktail shaker, combine
1 oz. each dry vermouth,
snacks, including the elderflower liqueur and
newest and the most grapefruit juice with 1⁄2 oz.
lemon juice and 1⁄4 oz.
surprising options:
each grapefruit liqueur, blanco
tequila and pisco. Fill the
shaker with ice and shake for
Teriyaki ostrich 5 seconds. Strain into an ice-
Tater Tot hot dish filled collins glass. Stir in
Scotch egg 21⁄2 oz. club soda and garnish
Frozen smoothie with a grapefruit-wheel half.
Deep-fried olives
Spaghetti and meatballs
Korean fried chicken
WHERE TO
GO NEXT
Roustabout, below,
and The Honey Paw,
left, are a short
stroll from Portland’s
scenic waterfront.
bottom: Tandem
Coffee and Bakery’s
improbably flaky
buttermilk biscuit
with strawberry jam.
The Maine clockwise from top left: michael piazza (3); nicole wolf
Attraction
PORTLAND’S REPUTATION AS THE FOODIEST,
FRIENDLIEST SMALL TOWN IN AMERICA IS
UNDENIABLE, BUT THE RESTAURANT SCENE IS
NOW OFFICIALLY IN OVERDRIVE. FROM NOODLE
BARS TO NATURAL WINES, FRIED CHICKEN
TO TIKI COCKTAILS, WE’VE GOT 14 REASONS
TO VISIT MAINE THIS MONTH. PLUS, OUR
SIX PICKS FOR THE ULTIMATE LOBSTER SHACK.
BY ANNIE P. QUIGLEY
NOW WITH HOUSE-MADE
O R D E R A H E A D A N D J U M P T H E L I N E W I T H T H E S TA R B U C KS® A P P
While supplies last.

© 2016 Starbucks Coffee Company.
All rights reserved.
Where to Go Next Maine
At Drifters Wife,
Peter and Orenda
Hale, left, pair
natural wines with
dishes such as
chicken liver mousse
and herb salad.
PORTLAND
Drifters Wife Terlingua Rhum
When Brooklyn transplants Peter and Texas is nearly 2,000 miles from Maine, “A lot of people say, ‘I never would’ve
Orenda Hale first opened their natural- but it doesn’t seem all that far when you’re thought of this,’” says Jason Loring, owner
wine shop, Maine & Loire, “we’d uncork eating barbecue at this white brick house of this underground tiki bar. “But it’s a no-
bottles and ask our friends and neighbors on Portland’s newly buzzy Washington brainer. A tiki bar is definitely something
to come over,” recalls Orenda. “But it wasn’t Avenue. Owner Pliny Reynolds and chef Portland needed.” Loring envisioned Rhum
enough. We wanted a real spot where like- Wilson Rothschild focus on Mexican as a place to wait out Maine’s long winters,
minded people could eat and drink.” So and Southwestern smoked meats, including but large-format cocktails, massive seafood
over the winter the Hales built Drifters Wife, a salt-cured pork belly chicharrón, towers and tropical drinks (served in tiki
a wine bar, in the front portion of the slow-cooked over local applewood and mugs made by two local Portland artisans)
store. The rotating menu of simple dishes, paired with Portland beers, like those are ideal for summer. Look for the semi-
such as bread with warm La Tur cheese from Austin Street Brewery. Reynolds even hidden entrance, where a wood ramp leads
and olive oil, is by chef Ben Jackson, another commissioned a Maine-born artist living to a blacked-out cavern with a giant
former Brooklynite. Drifters Wife feels in Texas to create the logo. “We’re not trying octopus painted on the windows—“Indiana
like it could be in Williamsburg (which is to be a big, old-school Texas barbecue Jones Temple of Doom–style,” Loring says.
appropriate since the couple met working place,” he says. “We just want to bring the 4 Free St.; rhumportland.com.
at Reynard at the Wythe Hotel). “Everyone communal spirit of barbecue to Maine—
thinks a wine bar is cheese and charcuterie, getting together with friends and watching Solo Italiano
and that’s chill,” says Peter. “But where we’re the football game and drinking beers.” Genoan chef Paolo Laboa gets credit for
from, it’s about the vibe.” 63 Washington 52 Washington Ave.; terlingua.me. teaching Danny Bowien of NYC’s wildly
Ave.; drifterswife.com. popular Mission Chinese the tricks to
an award-winning pesto. Laboa is now
bringing his native Ligurian food to a
Insider’s Tip Drifters brick-lined space on Commercial Street,
Wife is all about natural where waiters wearing patterned shirts
andrew schriver (2)
wine. Look for Oyster and crisp denim aprons deliver boards
of traditional thin-baked foccacia. Our
River Morphos, a funky favorite dish? The famous pesto, of course,
pétillant from a horse- on handkerchief pasta. 100 Commercial
powered Maine estate. St.; soloitalianorestaurant.com.
The Rooop Revelers
Leave some room in your bag and take the cool with you.
Exciting neighborhoods, hot restaurants and hotel deals – plan your DC getaway.
Find out how at WASHINGTONORGor by calling ---.
#MyDCcool
Figgy’s Takeout
It’s easy to miss this to-go window behind
at one of the small tables out front (the
potted herbs are those they use behind
N
The Top
Seafood
a coffee shop, where Natalie “Figgy” the bar) before stepping inside for mussels
DiBenedetto dishes up cast-iron fried in white wine or spaghetti in squid ink.
chicken and biscuits inspired by her 3 Deering Ave; rossobianco.me.
childhood in Missouri. “It felt like fried
chicken was one of the final food trends
Tandem Coffee and Bakery
Some of the best pastries and coffee in Shacks
in Maine
to reach Portland,” she says. “I could
town are at this retro gas station, where
do it blindfolded.” The signature Ay Ay Ron,
vintage lettering that reads brakes and
a cheddar biscuit piled high with chicken,
shocks still remains above the neon bakery
buttermilk mashed potatoes, slaw and Though it’s now a
sign. Owners Kathleen and William Pratt
gravy, is almost too large for one person to destination for beer
have created a laid-back, all-day hangout
finish. “It’s either really big guys or the
tiniest women who order it,” DiBenedetto
(there are now two Tandems in town). and bakeries, this state
says. “Then they devour every bite.”
Baker Briana Holt turns out brilliant cookies is still the best in the
and pies as well as “loaded biscuits” spread country at good old-
722B Congress St.; figgystakeoutand
with butter and housemade jam in flavors fashioned, can’t-get-
catering.com.
like strawberry tea flower. In the evenings, any-fresher, put-a-
Thompson’s Point look for beer-based cocktails and pop-up
bib-on shellfish. Here
What do you do when you find an collaborations with local chefs. 742
abandoned rail yard in Portland? You turn Congress St.; tandemcoffee.com/bakery. are six mandatory stops
it into a multipurpose food destination. for the lobster-obsessed.
The newly launched marketplace features
Scales
This long-awaited reopening is the hottest DUDLEY’S REFRESHER,
a distillery, a winery and the local Bissell
seafood restaurant in the city, courtesy CASTINE
Brothers Brewing Co. Come to drink, eat
of Sam Hayward and Dana Street of revered This newcomer on the town
fried chicken at Big J’s or take in an
Fore Street. Located on the refurbished dock has become an overnight
outdoor concert featuring headliners like
Maine Wharf, it evokes iconic New England hit with picky locals. 5 Sea St.;
The Lumineers and Leon Bridges.
with steamers and an exceptional warm dudleysrefresher.com.
thompsonspointmaine.com.
lobster roll, plus reimagined classics like
RED’S EATS, WISCASSET
Rossobianco cod with brown butter. “When you’re on
This roadside shack boasts
Chef David Levi of Portland’s hyper-local the ocean, the first thing you want to do is
that there’s one whole lobster
Vinland explores his northern Italian open the windows,” Street says—and every in each roll. 41 Water St.;
heritage at this natural-wine bar on tiny table has a view of lobstermen hauling 207-882-6128.
Bramhall Square. Start with a spritzer their catch onto the docks. 68 Commercial
St.; scalesrestaurant.com. BITE INTO MAINE,
CAPE ELIZABETH
Go for the scenic view of
Portland Head Light, stay for
the killer lobster rolls on
local buns. 1000 Shore Rd.;
Insider’s Tip The coffee at Tandem comes from its biteintomaine.com.
own roastery across town. Ideal pairing: THE CLAM SHACK,

KENNEBUNK
maple-brown-butter custard pie and a pour-over. Built on a bridge; has the finest
fried clams in Maine. The
steamed lobster and lemonade
Portland’s best, are tops. 2 Western Ave.;
geekiest coffee theclamshack.net.
is brewed by
Tandem’s BARNACLE BILLY’S,
Kathleen and OGUNQUIT
William Pratt. Snag a table on the deck for
sunset views. Check on the
wait via webcam before you
go. 50-70 Perkins Cove Rd.;
barnbilly.com.
CHAUNCEY CREEK
LOBSTER PIER,
KITTERY POINT
Our favorite outlet-shopping
respite—minutes from
Kittery. 16 Chauncey Creek Rd.;
S chaunceycreek.com.
nicole wolf
Head to Roustabout
for Bolognese, or
to The Honey Paw,
left, for khao soi
and potent cocktails.
Insider’s Tip At The Honey Paw, the cooks play DJ with The Grateful
Dead, Curtis Mayfield and Dolly Parton on heavy rotation.
The Honey Paw The Press Hotel a backyard orchard grows the heirloom
“We call it a nondenominational noodle Housed in what were once the offices of the apples that go into the shrubs. Goldman
bar,” says Mike Wiley, who co-owns The Portland Press Herald, The Press Hotel encourages guests to wander the grounds
Honey Paw with Andrew Taylor. “It gives takes stylistic cues from its history: Hallways before sitting down to dishes like roast pork
us the freedom to do whatever the hell are decorated with memorable news shoulder with garlic scapes. “Grab a glass
we want.” At this next-door neighbor to headlines (“Elderly lobster set free”), and of Riesling at the bar,” he invites, “and go
the pair’s superpopular Eventide Oyster a massive scale, once used for weighing exploring.” 37 Ogunquit Rd., Ogunquit;
Co., chef Thomas Pisha-Duffly explores paper, sits in the gym. Borrow one of the thevelveteenhabit.com.
the noodle spectrum, from pig-head hotel’s 12 bikes, equipped with coolers,
tortellini to smoked lamb khao soi. for a picnic on nearby Cape Elizabeth, or
Custom Deluxe
Biddeford—18 miles south of Portland—is a
Everything’s served on mismatched china; eat at Union, where native Maine chef
derelict mill town in the midst of a rebirth.
framed menus from Chinese buffets Josh Berry cooks with local ingredients
Travelers are coming to eat at the revived
and a wraparound wall of booze add to in an open kitchen. 119 Exchange St.;
1920s Palace Diner and to tuck into small
the eclectic, kitschy feel. 78 Middle St.; thepresshotel.com.
dishes at Custom Deluxe. Owners Thomas
thehoneypaw.com.
from left: meredith perdue; michael piazza
Malz and Meghan McVey describe the

Roustabout WORTH A DAY TRIP place as a working-class bistro, serving
simple New England farm food with a
The style is modern maritime: Walls are
covered with navy blue stripes, lights The Velveteen Habit Quebecois twist. Roast chicken thighs
swing from knotted ropes and an outsize Farmhouse Restaurant come with buttered sticky rice, mushroom
photo of a lobster boat battling stormy At this 1700s farmhouse not far from aioli, pea sprouts and poached egg,
seas sets the mood. But this isn’t a seafood Ogunquit’s picturesque Nubble Light, and smoked pork belly is served with
joint. Chef Anders Tallberg’s food is Italian- ex–Wall Street financier Ben Goldman has fingerling potatoes, yogurt and dill. “We’re
American: leafy Caesar salads, big bowls created a self-sustaining restaurant: trying to evolve into the most boot-
of creamy Bolognese. Cocktails are also A “micro farm” supplies sorrel and radishes stomping, mud-slinging, North-country
a highlight, with drinks like the Equinox, for dishes like Little Gem lettuce restaurant we can be,” says Malz. 140 Main
made with gin, lemon and Maine with sunflower tahini; beehives provide St., Biddeford; 207-494-7110.
berry preserves. 59 Washington Ave.; honeycomb for the outstanding cheese
roustabout.me. and homemade charcuterie plates; and
Voilà. A well-balanced, dry, Belgian.
Always Enjoy Responsibly.

© 2016 Stella Artois® Cidre Premium Cider, produced for
Stella Artois Cidre Company LLC, Baldwinsville, NY 13027
TV
HONORS
Jeremy Ford’s
genius move:
pickling grapes
to pair with red
snapper (p. 39).
J
EREMY FORD, the newest Top
Chef, drops a lot of dudes
and bros in conversation. But
if this makes the 30-year-old
Florida native seem laid-back,
his rivals know otherwise. During
season 13 of the show, whether he was
preparing Dungeness crab for rapper
MC Hammer or searing halibut with solar
power in the desert, Ford cooked with
the utmost seriousness. The reality show
wasn’t Ford’s first competition: He
got his current job as chef de cuisine at
Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Matador
Room in Miami Beach by winning a two-
day trial, beating 30 other contenders.
Ford has been cooking professionally
since the age of 16—ultimately deciding
restaurant kitchens offered a better
career path than heavy metal music.
Over time he developed a personal
style: “My approach is vegetable-forward.
from left: fredrika stjärne; javier ramirez
Think Like
I also use a lot of fish, and there is
always a good amount of acid and salt
in my food,” he says. His recipes (see
a Top Chef
p. 39) reflect his strong point of view,
particularly the simple but flavor-
packed red snapper with sweet and hot
pickled grapes—a new take on a dish
WANT TO COOK AS MASTERFULLY AS JEREMY FORD, THE LATEST that helped him snag the Top Chef title.
TOP CHEF WINNER? GET THE BEST FISH YOU CAN, A GOOD
SUPPLY OF VINEGAR AND SALT, AND MAYBE A BLOWTORCH.
BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN
Marble House,
National Historic Landmark
World Class Wines

Award Winning Chefs
• The Bordeaux Dinner at Marble House
• Wine & Rosecliff Gala
• Grand Tastings
• Celebrity Chef Demonstrations
• The Vintner Dinner Women in Whites
• Seminars in The Breakers Stable & Carriage House
Supporting Historic Preservation in Newport, RI • Newport After Dark Party
Benefiting • Sunday Jazz Brunch
September 22-25, 2016

Presenting Sponsor Event Management
Services Provided By:
www. NewportMansionsWineAndFood .org

TV Honors Top Chef
The party
starts with
good friends
and
great tequila.
red snapper with

sweet and spicy
pickled grapes
5 Top Chef Tips

Jeremy Ford shares a few tricks he picked up from the show,
plus some practical rules for acing every dish.
1 3
photograph: john kernick; food stylist: vivian lui; prop stylist: brooke deonarine
GRATE CURED MEATS TURN UP THE HEAT
My fellow Top Chef One of the biggest mistakes
contestant Chad White people make is not having
Microplaned beef jerky, a hot enough pan. This can
I think, onto carrots. I stole make a piece of fish or
the idea and grated Ibérico chicken go from crackly to
ham on top of my cheese soggy. Your skillet needs
course. It adds umami, and to be really hot, more than
the thin pieces just dissolve you think, to get good
on your tongue. caramelization.
2 PICKLE FRUIT
On the show we made
buttery chicken with crispy,
fatty skin and creamy squash.
4
TRY A BLOWTORCH
I like to quickly blowtorch
chiles. It takes off the fibrous
skin without actually cooking
I was looking for something the pepper.
sweet and sour with enough
5
acidity to stand up to the CRUMBLE YOUR SALT
richness. I could taste the Don’t be afraid to use
dish in my head. I went into coarse salt to finish a dish;
the cooler and the grapes just be sure to roll and
were there, so I put them crush it between your
in rice vinegar with serrano fingers first. Salt balances
chiles, a little honey and and enhances flavor.
some salt, then mixed
everything together. It came
out really well.
Tequila, Alcohol 40% by Volume (80 proof) ©2016 Alto Spirits Company,
Hayward, CA. USA. All rights reserved. 16-1663248-FCA-129-592074
38 F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E
TV Honors Top Chef
Red Snapper with Sweet Salmon Tartare on Garlic Bread

and Spicy Pickled Grapes Total 30 min; Serves 6
Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 30 min The mustard seed oil that’s drizzled
Serves 4
on the tartare at the end is extremely
1½ tsp. coriander seeds versatile. It has a clean, bright, sharp
flavor that will also perk up any number
1 cup Champagne vinegar
of dishes already in your repertoire,
1/3 cup sugar like scrambled eggs and grilled chicken.
2 thin strips of orange zest
1/3 cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin
½ tsp. dried lavender flowers olive oil
Kosher salt and pepper 2 garlic cloves, crushed
½ cup fresh lime juice ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper
¼ cup fresh clementine, mandarin or 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbsp. chopped parsley
orange juice
1/3 cup plus 1 Tbsp. chopped mint
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced (with
seeds) Kosher salt
½ lb. seedless green grapes, thinly Twelve ½-inch-thick baguette

sliced slices
1/4 cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin 12 oz. skinless sushi-grade salmon
olive oil fillet, very finely diced
Four 5-oz. red snapper fillets Mustard seed oil, for drizzling
1. In a small saucepan, toast the corian- 1. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a blender,
der seeds over moderate heat until fra- combine 1/3 cup of the olive oil with the
grant, about 2 minutes. Add the vinegar, garlic, crushed red pepper and 1 table-
sugar, orange zest, lavender flowers and spoon each of the parsley and mint;
1 tablespoon of kosher salt and bring to puree until smooth. Season the garlic oil
a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar and generously with salt.
salt. Add the lime juice, clementine juice 2. Brush the baguette slices with the gar-
and chile. Let the brine cool completely, lic oil; arrange on a large rimmed baking
about 45 minutes. sheet. Bake for about 10 minutes, until
2. Strain the brine into a medium bowl. crisp on the outside but soft in the middle.
Add the grapes and let pickle at room 3. In a medium bowl, mix the salmon with
temperature for 15 minutes. Drain the the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil
grapes, return them to the bowl and stir and 1/3 cup each of chopped parsley and HAND-MADE
in 1/4 cup of the olive oil. Reserve the
brine for another use.
mint. Season the tartare with salt and
mound on the toasts. Transfer to a plat- MOUTH-BLOWN
3. Season the snapper fillets with salt and
pepper. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the
ter. Drizzle mustard oil over the tartare
and serve.
IN AUSTRIA
remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil until WINE Medium-bodied, mineral-rich
shimmering. Add the fillets skin side down Chardonnay: 2014 Lioco Sonoma County.
and gently press with a spatula to flat-
ten. Cook over moderately high heat until
the skin is crisp, about 3 minutes. Turn the
fillets and cook until white throughout,
about 2 minutes longer. Transfer to a plat-
ter or plates, spoon some of the pickled
grapes on top and serve.
MAKE AHEAD The drained pickled
grapes can be refrigerated for 1 day.
WINE Bracing New Zealand Sauvignon
Blanc: 2015 Greywacke Marlborough.
RIEDEL.COM
F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E 39
advertisement
DANNY
BOWIEN’S
SAN
TASTE GUIDE FRANCISCO
San Francisco’s liberal
attitude extends to its
restaurant scene, where
I
young cooks are encouraged
f you want to cut to the spirit of a city, talk to a
to dream big. No one
chef. You might walk away with a list of must- understands that better
hit restaurants; marching orders for exploring than chef Danny Bowien,
Chinatown; intel on that one oyster bar that pours whose original Mission
moonshine for its favorite regulars. But talking to a Chinese Food in SF was
chef is also a great way to understand the way a city can more guerrilla operation
than formal restaurant.
act as muse. With that in mind, we asked chefs in five
From the kitchen that gave
of our favorite American cities to show us the places,
the chef his first taste of
faces, flavors and ideas that shape their work, from the
Szechuan flavors to the
Latin vitality and architectural splendor of Michelle waterside ruins where
Bernstein’s Southern Florida to the graffiti-splashed he goes to clear his head,
grit of Alex Stupak’s Manhattan. Here, we present the here’s a peek at the places
tale of San Francisco as told through the mind and belly that made Danny fall in
of one of its favorite cooks—Danny Bowien. love with left-coast culture.
SPICES II
Danny found inspiration for
EXPLORE MORE TASTE GUIDES MCF in this Taiwanese and
Szechuan restaurant, where
SANPELLEGRINO.COM he was first introduced
to the numbing heat of
Szechuan peppercorns.
291 6th Avenue
spicessf.com
TARTINE BAKERY
Liz Prueitt and Chad Robertson’s
cultish bakery has matured into
a San Francisco icon, thanks
to its gorgeous pastries and
world-class bread.
600 Guerrero Street
tartinebakery.com
SUTRO BATHS
The ruins of a 19th-century
swimming complex are now
part of a historic park, with
sweeping, dramatic views of
the Pacific Ocean.
© 2016 TIME INC. AFFLUENT MEDIA GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Point Lobos Avenue

PHOTOS: TOP, COURTESY OF DANNY BOWIEN; SECOND
sutrobaths.com
AND THIRD, HUGE GALDONES; ALL OTHERS, GETTY
MISSION CHINESE FOOD

By Danny Bowien
The MCF phenomenon had
humble beginnings as a pop-up
inside Lung Shan, a Cantonese
restaurant in the Mission.
2234 Mission Street
missionchinesefood.com/sf
All trademarks are owned by Frito-Lay North America, Inc. ©2016
WHAT TO COOK NOW
HANDBOOK
What Chefs Know Best
Dan Kluger does

amazing things
with vegetables. Check
out his perfect
summer menu. »
photographs: john kernick; food stylist: vivian lui;
prop stylist: brooke deonarine
Jazz up your tomato salad.

Fry almonds, then use the oil
to flavor a vinaigrette for
heirloom tomatoes. Sprinkle
chopped almonds on top.
Handbook What to Cook Now
Intensify tomatoes.
Sift almonds. Season your heirlooms,
Before frying, pass then let them sit;
the nuts through a mesh this draws out liquid and
strainer to get rid of the amps up flavor.
“dust,” which tends to burn.
Tomatoes with Herbs and 1. In a medium skillet, cook the

Almond Vinaigrette almonds in the oil over moder-
Total 45 min; Serves 4 ately low heat, stirring occasion-
ally, until well browned, about
What Chefs
½ cup almonds, coarsely 7 minutes. Strain the oil through
chopped and sifted a fine sieve into a heatproof
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra- bowl; reserve the almonds for
Know Best
virgin olive oil the salad. Immediately whisk
1 garlic clove, finely grated the garlic into the warm oil and
let cool slightly, then whisk in
¼ cup red wine vinegar the vinegar, lime juice and sugar.
Dan Kluger, named an F&W Best New Chef 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Season the dressing with salt
2012 at ABC Kitchen in Manhattan, is and pepper.
1 tsp. sugar
opening his own restaurant in Greenwich
Kosher salt and pepper 2. Spread the tomatoes on a
Village this month. On the menu will be large baking sheet. Season with
the simple, seasonal dishes for which he’s 2 lbs. mixed heirloom
salt and let stand for 5 minutes.
tomatoes, some sliced,
known, including this paean to tomatoes
some halved 3. Drain the onions; pat dry.
and the quintessential grilled steak. Scatter half of the almonds
1/3 cup very thinly sliced red
onion, soaked in ice water on a platter and top them with
for 10 minutes the tomatoes. Drizzle with the
dressing and top with the onion,
½ small jalapeño, minced
jalapeño, mint, basil and
¼ cup torn mint leaves the remaining almonds. Serve.
¼ cup torn Thai basil leaves WINE Vibrant French rosé: 2015
L’Ostal Cazes Pays d’Oc.
Bone-In Rib Eye Steaks 4. In a bowl, blend the butter,

with Grilled Onion Jam rosemary, thyme and garlic.
Active 45 min; Total 1 hr Brush the herb butter on the
Serves 4 steaks and grill over high heat,
turning once, until sizzling,
ONION JAM
1 minute per side. Transfer to
3 red onions, sliced a carving board. Slice the steaks
Extra-virgin olive oil, for and serve with the onion jam.
brushing WINE Blackberry-scented Shi-
Kosher salt and pepper raz: 2014 Clonakilla Hilltops.
1 cup apple cider vinegar
Citrus-and-Herb-
¼ cup pure maple syrup
Grill steak on its side. Marinated Shrimp
This method helps ¼ tsp. finely chopped thyme
Active 20 min; Total 50 min plus
render a lot of the fat STEAKS 2 hr air-drying; Serves 4
in a thick-cut rib eye.
Two 1½-lb. bone-in rib eye 2 lbs. large shrimp, shelled
steaks (1½ inches thick), and deveined, tails left on
at room temperature
1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil
Extra-virgin olive oil, for
brushing 1 Tbsp. finely grated orange
zest
Kosher salt and pepper
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fresh
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, orange juice
softened
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon
2 tsp. minced rosemary zest plus 3 Tbsp. fresh
2 tsp. minced thyme lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, grated ¾ cup chopped cilantro

¾ cup chopped parsley
1. Make the onion jam Light
a grill or preheat a grill pan. One 3-inch piece of fresh
ginger, peeled and finely
Brush the onions with oil and
grated
season with salt and pepper.
Grill over moderate heat, turn- ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper
ing once, until lightly charred Kosher salt
and tender, about 7 minutes.
Lemon wedges, for
2. In a saucepan, bring the vin- serving
egar and maple syrup to a boil.
Maximize herb flavor. 1. Spread the shrimp in an even
Add the onions and simmer
Use a sharp knife to chop layer on a large rimmed baking
over moderately low heat until
herbs for this butter or sheet. Refrigerate uncovered for
tender, 8 minutes. Transfer to
you’ll lose aromatic oils. 2 hours to air-dry.
a bowl; let cool. Stir in the thyme.
Season with salt and pepper. 2. In a large bowl, mix all of the
remaining ingredients except
3. Make the steaks Light a grill
the salt and lemon wedges. Add
or preheat a grill pan. Brush
the shrimp and stir to coat.
the steaks with oil and season
Refrigerate for 30 minutes, stir-
with salt and pepper. Stand
ring occasionally.
Go for the char. the steaks on their fatty edges
Smear herbed butter on (bone side up) and cook over 3. Remove the shrimp from the
cooked steaks, then flash- moderate heat until the fat has marinade; season with salt.
grill over high heat. started to render and is lightly Light a grill or preheat a grill pan.
charred, 5 minutes. Lay the Grill the shrimp over moderately
steaks flat. Grill, turning often, high heat, turning once, until
until an instant-read thermom- just white throughout, about
eter inserted in the thickest part 4 minutes. Transfer to a platter
registers 120°, 12 to 15 minutes. and serve with lemon wedges.
If using a grill pan, carefully blot
WINE Zesty Loire Sauvignon
excess fat with paper towels
Blanc: 2015 Clos de la Grange
to prevent flare-ups. Transfer
Touraine.
to a cutting board; let rest for
10 minutes. Leave the grill on.
3% at U.S. Supermarkets
1
Purchase Protection
on up to $ 6,000 in purchases
Extended Warranty 1
2% at U.S. Gas Stations
Return Protection 2
1% on other purchases
Mobile Fraud Alerts
No Annual Fee ±
Zero Liability on Fraudulent Charges
Roadside Assistance Hotline
24/7 Phone & Online Chat Customer Service
Welcome to the service and

security of Membership.
Presenting the
Blue Cash Everyday Card from American Express

®
americanexpress.com/cashback
Terms and limitations apply. See americanexpress.com/cashback.

Cash Back is received in the form of Reward Dollars that can be redeemed as a statement credit.
± APR on purchases will vary based on the Prime Rate, currently 13.24% to 23.24%, based on your creditworthiness and other factors. The following APRs also vary based on the
Prime Rate and will be determined based on your creditworthiness and other factors at account opening. APR for Balance Transfers requested within 30 days of account opening:
13.24% to 23.24%; APR for Cash Advances: 25.49%, Penalty APR: 29.49%. Variable rates accurate as of 04/27/2016. Cash Advance Fee: The greater of $5 or 3% of the amount
of each cash advance. Balance Transfer Fee: The greater of $5 or 3% of the amount of each transfer. Foreign Transaction Fee: 2.7% of each transaction after conversion to USD.
1. Underwritten by AMEX Assurance Co., Phoenix, AZ and Tokio Marine Pacific Ins. Ltd., Hagatna, Guam. Help protect eligible purchases made on your Card with Purchase Protection
(theft and accidental damage, up to 90 days from purchase, up to $1,000 an occurrence and $50,000 a year per Card account) and Extended Warranty (up to 1 year added to original
U.S. manufacturer’s warranty of 5 years or less). Terms, exclusions & limitations apply. See americanexpress.com/benefitsguide.
2. Limited to 90 days from eligible purchase on your Card, up to $300 per item and $1,000 a year per Card account. Terms, exclusions & limitations apply.
Healthy Cooking:
Freekeh
This make-ahead salad is by Kristin Donnelly,
author of the new book Modern Potluck.
“I love the idea of a potluck: You make one dish
and get a whole meal in return,” she says.
WHAT IS FREEKEH?
This roasted and cracked
green wheat is not only high
in fiber and protein but
also cooks in just 20 minutes.
½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. canola oil 2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, with the grilled tofu. Garnish with
Freekeh with Grilled Tofu
Kosher salt and pepper whisk the rice vinegar with the the remaining scallion greens,
and Miso-Lime Dressing lime zest, lime juice, miso, gin- mint and furikake and serve.
Total 45 min; Serves 4 One 14-oz. package firm ger and scallion whites. While
tofu—drained, sliced MAKE AHEAD The cooked
1½ cups cracked freekeh whisking constantly, slowly
½ inch thick and patted freekeh and haricots verts and
dry with paper towels drizzle in the toasted sesame
8 oz. haricots verts, the dressing can all be refriger-
oil and canola oil. Season with
trimmed and halved 3 Persian cucumbers, thinly ated overnight. Bring to room
salt and pepper.
crosswise sliced temperature before using.
3 Tbsp. unseasoned rice 3. Heat a grill pan. Season the
Mint and furikake (see NOTE Furikake is a Japanese
vinegar Note) or toasted sesame
tofu with salt and pepper and
condiment made from dried
seeds, for garnish brush with ¼ cup of the dress-
1½ tsp. finely grated lime seaweed, sesame seeds and
ing. Grill over moderately high
zest plus 1½ Tbsp. fresh fish. It’s available at Asian
1. Cook the freekeh in a large heat, turning once, until grill
lime juice markets and on amazon.com.
saucepan of salted boiling water marks form and the tofu is
1½ Tbsp. white miso until tender, about 20 minutes; heated through, about 3 min- WINE Fragrant and minerally
2 tsp. packed finely grated add the haricots verts for the utes per side. Pinot Bianco: 2015 Erste + Neue
peeled fresh ginger last 2 minutes. Drain and rinse Alto Adige.
4. Add the remaining dressing,
3 scallions, white and green the freekeh and beans under
the cucumbers and two-thirds
parts thinly sliced cold running water until cool.
of the scallion greens to the
separately Drain well and transfer to a
freekeh, season with salt and
large bowl.
1½ tsp. toasted sesame oil pepper and toss. Mound the
freekeh salad on plates and top
a dve
p r ormtot
i s ieomne n t
FOR A GOOD TIME

FWx.COM
© 2016 TIME INC. AFFLUENT MEDIA GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ART BY MIKE PERRY.
Mad Genius Tips:

Sangria
Justin Chapple, star of F&W’s Mad Genius Tips videos,
chills red and white sangria with beautiful ice rings that he makes
in a Bundt pan with green-market berries or cucumbers.
Rosé Sangria with Vinho Verde Sangria

a Mixed-Berry Ice Ring with a Mint-and-
Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Cucumber Ice Ring
plus 8 hr freezing Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 15 min
Serves 8 to 10 plus 8 hr freezing
Serves 8 to 10
1 cup blueberries
1 cup raspberries 3 Persian cucumbers, thinly
sliced lengthwise
1 cup sliced strawberries
8 mint sprigs
1 cup blackberries
2 limes, thinly sliced
½ cup fresh currants
(optional) Distilled water
Distilled water Two 750-ml bottles Vinho

Verde
Two 750-ml bottles rosé
Two 12-oz. bottles ginger
8 oz. light rum beer
8 oz. simple syrup (see 6 oz. gin
Note)
1½ oz. fresh lime juice
4 oz. Campari
Ice cubes (optional)
2 oz. fresh lemon juice
Ice cubes (optional) 1. Layer the cucumbers, mint
sprigs and limes in a Bundt
1. Layer the berries in a Bundt pan. Gradually add just enough
photograph: john kernick; food stylist: hadas smirnoff; prop stylist: marie sullivan
pan. Gradually add just enough distilled water to cover. Freeze
distilled water to cover. Freeze until solid, 8 hours or overnight,
until solid, 8 hours or overnight.
2. In a large punch bowl, stir the
2. In a large punch bowl, stir wine with the ginger beer, gin
the wine with the rum, simple and lime juice. Refrigerate until
syrup, Campari and lemon chilled, about 45 minutes.
juice. Refrigerate until chilled,
3. Fill a large bowl with very hot
about 45 minutes.
water. Dip the bottom of the
3. Fill a large bowl with very Bundt pan in the water to loosen
hot water. Dip the bottom of the the ice ring and invert it onto
BUNDT PAN HACK Bundt pan in the water to loosen a plate. Add the ice ring to the
the ice ring and invert it onto sangria. Serve in wineglasses,
Layer berries or other a plate. Add the ice ring to the with or without ice.
kinds of produce in sangria. Serve in wineglasses,
the mold, fill with distilled MAKE AHEAD The mint-and-
with or without ice.
water and freeze. cucumber ice ring can be fro-
NOTE To make 8 oz. of simple zen for up to 3 days. The Vinho
syrup, combine 3/4 cup each Verde sangria can be refriger-
of water and sugar in a sauce- ated overnight.
pan. Boil, stirring to dissolve
the sugar. Let cool before using.
MAKE AHEAD The mixed-berry
ice ring can be frozen for
up to 3 days. The sangria can
be refrigerated overnight.
© 2016 Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, Inc.
EatWisconsinCheese.com
Cravings
Jen Yee, the brilliant pastry chef at New York City’s
Lafayette Grand Café & Bakery, makes ice cream sandwiches
with mochi, the chewy Japanese rice-flour dessert.
Coconut Mochi Ice 3. Working quickly, scrape the

Cream Sandwiches mochi dough out onto the
Active 30 min prepared work surface and sift
Total 2 hr 30 min a fine layer of cornstarch over
Makes twelve 2-inch ice cream it. Pat the dough into a 9-inch
sandwiches round. Using a rolling pin lightly
dusted with cornstarch, roll out
Cornstarch, for dusting
the dough ¼ inch thick.
1½ cups sweet glutinous rice
flour (mochiko flour) 4. Dip a 2-inch round cutter
in cornstarch and stamp out
1 cup water
24 rounds, rerolling the scraps
¾ cup granulated sugar as needed. Transfer the mochi
¼ cup unsweetened coconut to the prepared baking sheet.
milk Cover with plastic wrap and
freeze until firm, about 1 hour.
¼ tsp. kosher salt
5. Meanwhile, scrape the soft-
1½ pints (3 cups) coconut ice
cream, softened slightly ened ice cream into a gallon-
sized resealable freezer bag.
1. Using a damp cloth, wipe down Using a small spatula, spread
a large work surface. Stretch the ice cream evenly so it’s
a 14-inch sheet of plastic wrap about ¾ inch thick in the bag,
over the surface and use then squeeze out any excess
the damp cloth to smooth it air and seal. Freeze until firm,
out. Sift a generous layer of about 1 hour.
cornstarch over the plastic
6. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with
wrap. Dust a large rimmed bak-
paper or foil liners. Using a pas-
ing sheet with cornstarch.
try brush, dust the excess corn-
2. In a large microwave-safe starch off the mochi rounds.
bowl, mix the rice flour with the Place 1 mochi round in each
water, sugar, coconut milk cup. Lay the bag of ice cream
and salt. Cover the bowl tightly flat on the counter and snip
with plastic wrap. Microwave around the top of the bag, then
the mochi mixture at high power peel it off. Using a 2-inch round
for 2 minutes, until the batter cutter, stamp out 12 rounds
starts to thicken at the edges. of ice cream. Working quickly,
Remove the plastic wrap and, lightly brush the 12 mochi in
using a rubber spatula, stir the the muffin cups with water and
mixture until it is mostly top with the ice cream rounds.
+
HUNGRY
smooth; a few small lumps are
OK. Cover the bowl with the
plastic wrap and microwave at
Brush each of the remaining
12 mochi rounds with water and
set them damp side down on
FOR MORE? high power for another 2 min- the ice cream. Press lightly to
For matcha and
strawberry utes; the dough should be stiff help the mochi and ice cream
variations, go to and sticky. Using a rubber spat- stick together. Freeze until firm,
foodandwine ula, stir the dough quickly and about 1 hour. Let the mochi
.com/mochi. vigorously until smooth, about sandwiches soften for about
30 seconds. 10 minutes before serving.
HAVE YOU EVER BREWED
ICED TEA AT HOME?
IT’S LIKE THAT.
The best things in life are real. Which is why we only make iced tea one way.
The way you do. With real leaf-brewed tea, from premium tea leaves.
Deliciously chilled. We love iced tea the way you love iced tea. Pure and simple.
FOR THE LOVE OF LEAVES

© 2016 Pure Leaf is a registered trademark of the Unilever Group of Companies used under license.
FOOD INTELLIGENCE
BIG
IDEAS
photographs: john kernick; food stylist: vivian lui; prop stylist: brooke deonarine
THE GASTRONAUT FILES
Even Easier
Than Pie
Two simple doughs are all Kansas City
pastry chef Megan Garrelts needs
to transform pans of fruit into crowd-
pleasing summer desserts.
Pie-obsessed residents of Kansas City,

These superlight Missouri, flock to Megan Garrelts’s
cornmeal biscuits Bluestem and Rye all week long. At home
have twice the corn on summer Sundays, however, Garrelts
for extra flavor. favors simpler cobblers or pandowdies.
These all-American desserts are easier to
make than pie and even better showcases
for the juiciest farm-stand finds.
bluestemkc.com, ryekc.com. —TINA UJLAKI
Big Ideas The Gastronaut Files
Blueberry-Nectarine Pandowdy
page 62
Active: 45 min; Total: 3 hr; Serves 8
Nectarines are Garrelts’s favorite summer fruit.
Here she tosses slices with blueberries, sweet spices and ginger
and tops them with a lemon-lime sugar cookie dough.
SUGAR COOKIE DOUGH PANDOWDY
3/4 cup all-purpose flour Unsalted butter, for

greasing
¼ tsp. baking powder
½ cup granulated sugar
¼ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
4½ Tbsp. unsalted butter,
softened 4 cups sliced nectarines
(4 to 5)
½ cup sugar
4 heaping cups blueberries
¼ tsp. pure vanilla extract Mixed-Fruit Cornmeal Cobbler
¼ cup cornstarch
1½ tsp. finely grated lemon
zest plus 1½ tsp. fresh 1 Tbsp. finely grated orange Active: 45 min; Total: 2 hr 30 min; Serves 8
lemon juice zest plus ½ cup fresh
orange juice This cornmeal-biscuit dough is light and not too sweet. Cut the
1½ tsp. finely grated lime biscuits in any size rounds, or in fanciful shapes if you prefer.
zest plus 1½ tsp. fresh 2 tsp. finely grated peeled
lime juice fresh ginger CORNMEAL BISCUITS COBBLER
2 Tbsp. beaten egg 2 tsp. brandy 1¾ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup honey
(½ large egg)
1 tsp. ground ginger ¼ cup corn flour ½ cup light brown sugar
½ tsp. ground cardamom ¼ cup fine cornmeal ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
½ tsp. grated nutmeg ¼ cup sugar 1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon
Heavy cream, for brushing 2 tsp. finely grated lemon ½ tsp. kosher salt
Ice cream, for serving zest
1/3 cup cornstarch mixed
1½ tsp. baking powder with ¼ cup water
1. Make the sugar cookie dough In a medium bowl, sift the flour
1/8 tsp. baking soda 8 cups raspberries, pitted
with the baking powder and salt. In a large bowl, beat the butter cherries and sliced plums
and sugar with a hand mixer at medium-high speed until light and 1 tsp. kosher salt
Heavy cream, for brushing
fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the vanilla, lemon zest, lemon juice, 1 stick cold unsalted
lime zest and lime juice, scraping down the side of the bowl as butter, cubed 2 Tbsp. turbinado sugar
necessary. Beat in the egg. With the mixer at low speed, beat in the ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. Lemon thyme sprigs
dry ingredients, scraping down the side of the bowl as necessary; buttermilk
Whipped cream, for
the dough will be very soft.
serving
2. Scrape the dough out onto a sheet of plastic wrap and roll into
a 9-inch log. Flatten the log into a 2-inch-wide rectangle, about 1. Make the biscuits In a food processor, combine the all-purpose
1 inch tall. Refrigerate until very firm, at least 2 hours. flour, corn flour, cornmeal, sugar, lemon zest, baking powder, bak-
3. Make the pandowdy Preheat the oven to 350˚. Butter a 9-by- ing soda and salt; pulse to blend. Add the butter and pulse until the
13-inch glass, ceramic or metal baking dish and sprinkle with mixture resembles coarse meal. With the machine on, drizzle in the
2 tablespoons of the sugar; turn to coat the pan with sugar. buttermilk. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead just
until it comes together. Pat the dough into a 1-inch-thick disk, wrap
4. In a small bowl, mix 2 tablespoons of the sugar with the cinnamon.
in plastic and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour.
In a large bowl, toss the nectarines and blueberries with the
remaining ¼ cup of sugar and the cornstarch, orange zest, orange 2. Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter a 3-quart baking dish. On a
juice, grated ginger, brandy, ground ginger, cardamom and nut- lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough ½ inch thick. Using
meg. Spread the fruit in the prepared dish. a 2-inch biscuit cutter, stamp out rounds, rerolling the scraps.
5. Using a sharp knife, slice the rectangle of cookie dough 1/4 inch 3. Make the cobbler In a large bowl, mix the honey with the brown
thick. Arrange the slices over the fruit in a graphic or random pat- sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon and salt. Stir and add the cornstarch
tern; they will spread during baking. Brush the dough with heavy mixture, then add the fruit and toss gently. Spread the fruit in the
cream and sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar. Bake the pandowdy prepared pan and top with the biscuits. Brush the biscuits with
until the cookie dough is golden brown and the fruit is bubbling, cream and sprinkle with the turbinado sugar. Bake until the fruit is
about 45 minutes. Serve warm, with ice cream. bubbling and the biscuits are golden, about 45 minutes. Garnish
with lemon thyme and serve warm, with whipped cream.
MAKE AHEAD The cookie dough can be refrigerated for 2 days.
@V\YILZ[YLJPWLZ-VY`V\YILZ[MYPLUK
;OLTLHSZ`V\SV]LTHKLQ\Z[MVY[OLTcesar home delightsIYHUK
cesar. SV]L[OLTIHJR
®
;YHKLTHYRZ4HYZ0UJVYWVYH[LK>LZ[PLPTHNLHUK[YH`ZOHWLHYL[YHKLTHYRZ
Big Ideas The Gastronaut Files
Step-by-Step
Pandowdy
Pandowdies (you’ve got to love
the name) belong to the family of
Colonial American dough-topped
fruit desserts that includes cobblers,
betties, crisps, grunts, slumps and
buckles. Garrelts tops her blueberry-
nectarine version with sugar cookie
dough. Cutting rectangles from a slice-
and-bake log makes the soft dough
1 2
easy to work with.
MAKE THE TOPPING Prepare sugar cookie PREP THE FRUIT In a large bowl, combine
dough, pat into a rectangle and chill until nectarines and berries with sugar, spices,
firm. Slice the dough 1/4 inch thick. cornstarch and orange juice. Toss well.
3
FILL THE PAN Spread the nectarines and
4
ARRANGE THE TOPPING Place the cookie
berries in an even layer in a baking pan or dough on the fruit any way you like; it will
a glass or ceramic baking dish. spread during baking. Brush with cream.
+
HUNGRY
FOR MORE?
For more cobblers,
crisps and buckles,
go to foodandwine
.com/summer-fruit.
5
SPRINKLE ON SUGAR For a light crunch
6
BAKE AND SERVE Cook the pandowdy
and a note of spice, sprinkle the cookie until the fruit is bubbling and the cookie
dough with cinnamon sugar. topping is crisp. Serve with ice cream.
Big Ideas Food Quest
United States of
Ice Cream
LIKE YOU, WE PLAN ON SPENDING AUGUST IN HOT PURSUIT OF THE BEST
ICE CREAMS, SO WE ASKED OUR FACEBOOK FANS TO VOTE FOR THEIR
FAVORITE PARLORS ACROSS THE COUNTRY. PLUS, WE ATE OUR WAY THROUGH
DOZENS OF PINTS TO REVEAL THE BEST IN AMERICA.
BY JULIA HEFFELFINGER & CHRISTINE QUINLAN
SOUTH-
WEST
ARIZONA
CHURN, PHOENIX 5
churnaz.com kinds of
cones
This shop has a retro vibe—
check out the nostalgic ice
cream cookie sandwiches.
Top scoop Vietnamese Coffee
TEXAS
AMY’S, AUSTIN
amysicecreams.com
As well known for its
scoop-throwing employees
as for its ice cream.
Top scoop Mexican Vanilla
FAT CAT CREAMERY, HOUSTON

fatcatcreamery.com
Nearby Barry Farm provides
figs, citrus and other ingredients.
Top scoop Milk Chocolate Stout
LICK, AUSTIN
ilikelick.com They
Everything from the ship
sauces to the marshmallow
is made in house.
Top scoop Dewberry Corn
Cobbler
todd spoth
IN THE TIME IT TAKES
TO READ THIS AD,
WE’VE MADE LITTLE TO
NO PROGRESS.
We slow-roast the finest 100% Weber Blue Agave for more than three days
and then slowly crush it with a two-ton tahona stone wheel. The result is an
earthy, complex taste that’s more than worth the wait.
The perfect way to enjoy Patró n is responsibly. Handcrafted and imported exclusively from Mexico by The Patró n Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV. 42-45% abv.
Portland, Oregon’s Salt & Straw

is known for its chef collaborations.
left: Jeni’s has 10 locations in the
Columbus area.
WEST MIDWEST
CALIFORNIA OREGON MICHIGAN OHIO
BI-RITE CREAMERY, SALT & STRAW, PORTLAND MOOMERS, TRAVERSE CITY GRAETER’S, CINCINNATTI
SAN FRANCISCO saltandstraw.com moomers.com graeters.com
biritecreamery.com Famous for its collaborations This family-run parlor is on a dairy This state icon also ships its rich,
Marin County’s Straus Family with chefs as well as sweet- farm—just look for the cows. custard-style ice cream.
Creamery, the first certified- savory combos like Fish Sauce Top scoop Black Cherry Top scoop Buckeye Chocolate Chip
organic dairy in the West, Caramel with Palm Sugar.
supplies all of the milk and Top scoop Arbequina Olive Oil
cream for Bi-Rite’s ice creams. MINNESOTA JENI’S, COLUMBUS
jenis.com
Top scoop Black Sesame with
Sonoma Honey WASHINGTON PUMPHOUSE CREAMERY,
MINNEAPOLIS
Ingenious combinations like
Ylang Ylang and Fennel
LICK PURE CREAM, SEATTLE pumphouse-creamery.com are Jeni Britton Bauer’s signature.
McCONNELL’S, lickpc.com
The locavore spot–even the Top scoop Salty Caramel
SANTA BARBARA Inventive flavors like the malty waffle cones are made with
mcconnells.com In L.A., M2 (the owner won’t reveal Minnesota grains–also sells
This parlor pasteurizes its
too
what’s in it) fill the Lickwich, made great dairy-free coconut WISCONSIN
own milk and cream to make with grilled doughnut halves. milk ice creams. KOPP’S FROZEN CUSTARD,
a rich, thick custard base. Top scoop Orchard Peach Top scoop Door County Cherry GREENFIELD
Top scoop Churros con Leche
from left: jeni’s art + design; dina avila
kopps.com
Dense
MOLLY MOON, SEATTLE
mollymoon.com MISSOURI Frozen custard, like Kopp’s, and
SWEET ROSE CREAMERY, has less air in it than most silky
SANTA MONICA It’s not just the customers who TED DREWES FROZEN ice creams, so it’s smoother.
sweetrosecreamery.com are happy here: Employees CUSTARD, ST. LOUIS Top scoop Sprecher Root
get free health care, paid leave teddrewes.com Beer Float
Ingredients come from the
local farmers’ market, and living wages. The “concretes” (frozen custard
one of the best in the country. Top scoop Stumptown Coffee blended with mix-ins)
Top scoop Strawberry inspired those at Shake Shack.
Top scoop Terramizzou
“Cancer, we’re on course to beat you”
Colin Montgomerie | MD Anderson Ambassador
When it comes to taking on skin cancer, there’s no one better or with more experience than
MD Anderson. Which is why we recommend a few tips to be safer in the sun: Be sure to apply sunscreen
often, seek shade whenever possible, and wear sunglasses and maybe even a wide-brimmed hat.
For more, call 1-855-894-0145 or visit MakingCancerHistory.com/PGATOUR.
Ranked one of the top cancer

centers in the nation for 27 years
by U.S. News & World Report.
My Life in Ice Cream

Author Liz Tuccillo on her rocky road
with the irresistible treat.
I
Gabrielle
Carbone and
Matt Errico FIRST LEARNED that the world could be a wondrous
rotate through place filled with magical delights when, as a little
some 500 girl in Brooklyn, I walked up to a Good Humor truck.
flavors at their There, for sale, was a stick of ice cream that had
Princeton an entire chocolate bar inside of it. Chocolate candy.
shop, The Bent
Inside ice cream. Are. You. Kidding. Me. Good Humor
Spoon.
introduced me to joy and awe.
EAST
NEW JERSEY When I got a little older, my sense of well-being and
abundance came from the Banana Barge. My father would
THE BENT SPOON, PRINCETON
take my sister and me to Carvel every Sunday and let
thebentspoon.net
each of us order the largest thing offered—three towers of
The intriguing options
ice cream, bananas and chopped peanuts—that we didn’t
include sweet potato and
DC cardamom ginger. have to share! The Banana Barge let us know that even
ICE CREAM JUBILEE, Top scoop Crème Fraîche though our parents no longer lived together, we
WASHINGTON, DC were still two of the luckiest little girls in the world. In the
icecreamjubilee.com
Victoria Lai, a former member of
NEW YORK Organic backseat of the car with our gigantic ships of melty,
messy soft-serve heaven, Carvel was boundless fatherly love.
the Department of Homeland BLUE MARBLE, BROOKLYN
But then, innocence must be lost. In the ’80s, as a
Security, gets creative with milk bluemarbleicecream.com
student at NYU, I got a job in an ice cream shop. It was in
and cream from nearby South Started by two best friends, it
Mountain Creamery. excels at old-school favorites.
the West Village, on Christopher Street. I worked in the
Top scoop Chocolate Matzo Crack Top scoop Strawberry back of this tiny storefront, where there was an ice cream
machine and crates of ice cream mix (we were very proud
MAINE GANNON’S, SYRACUSE
gannonsicecream.com
of our high butterfat content then), and I would put on
my kitchen whites and get down to business.
MT. DESERT ISLAND
This Syracuse parlor uses That’s when the mystique melted away. I was a young
ICE CREAM, BAR HARBOR
mdiic.com ingredients from central New York adult, worried about student loans and my job prospects
in its 30-plus daily options. after graduation, and ice cream was no longer child’s play.
Ice cream artisan Linda Parker Top scoop Marti’s Marshmallow
shows her local pride, as when I did eat some of what I made during this time. And
she adds Maine sea salt to caramel I did enjoy it, sorta. But eating it was more like a mother
ice cream. ODDFELLOWS, NYC
finishing her child’s mac and cheese. It was right in
Top scoop Butterscotch Miso oddfellowsnyc.com
front of me. I couldn’t help myself.
Known for over-the-top ice
cream sandwiches called
And then, eventually, high butterfat was out; light
MASSACHUSETTS OddPockets, made with warm and airy ice cream was in. The winters were long. The
TOSCANINI’S, CAMBRIDGE and buttery brioche bread. store closed. I grew up and was finally able to own an
tosci.com Top scoop Buttermilk apartment in the West Village, the neighborhood I dreamed
Honey Blueberry I’d live in one day. Ice cream was something easily
Decadent varieties like B3
(brown butter, brown sugar and avoided: I was always on a diet. Dairy made me cough.
chunks of fudge brownie) share
freezer space with perfect versions
PENNSYLVANIA Plus, I still had the lingering feeling that I had eaten
BERKEY CREAMERY, enough for one lifetime.
of the classics.
Top scoop Hydrox Cookie UNIVERSITY PARK, CAMPUS OF Then, across the street from where I once worked, a store
PENN STATE opened called Big Gay Ice Cream. There was a rumor,
creamery.psu.edu whispered delightedly to me by a friend, that they lined
NEW HAMPSHIRE This operation, which owns more their cones with Nutella. What? I went in. The rumor
ANNABELLE’S NATURAL, than 200 cows, has been was true. Instead of finishing your ice cream and getting to
PORTSMOUTH part of Penn State for 150 years.
Top scoop Berkey Brickle the bottom of that sad, dry cone, with nothing but
annabellesicecream.com
maybe a smidge of an ice cream drip to moisten it, your
In an alley on the waterfront,
tongue would have a tiny Nutella pond waiting for it.
this shop serves rotating
seasonal choices and more than
VIRGINIA Nutella. Inside an ice cream cone. Are. You. Kidding. Me.
30 regular ones. ISLAND CREAMERY, Hello, ice cream. I’m back.
Top scoop New Hampshire Pure CHINCOTEAGUE ISLAND
Maple Walnut islandcreamery.net
guy ambrosino
Liz Tuccillo, a former writer on Sex & The City, is the author
The Conklin family has been
of He’s Just Not That Into You and How to Be Single.
making fantastic small-batch
flavors and custom ice cream
cakes for 40 years.
Top scoop Marsh Mud
Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2016 Meiomi Wines, Acampo, CA
10
Taste-Test Winners
We at F&W had the enviable task of
Minty trying pint after pint of ice cream
fresh
(new ones available in grocery stores and
online) to find the standouts.
ALT MILK
LaLoo’s, based in Frisco,
Texas, uses goat milk to make MADE TO ORDER CROSS-CULTURAL
lush ice creams that are At Smitten Ice Cream, a mini chain Started in Brunswick, Maine,
naturally lower in fat and of San Francisco and Los Angeles by two friends fresh out of college,
LOCAVORE
easier to digest than the parlors, “brrristas” use a liquid Gelato Fiasco highlights local
McConnell’s, a 70-year-old
cow-milk kind. The nitrogen machine to make fresh ice ingredients and Italian gelato-
Santa Barbara operation,
Rumplemint is swirled with cream fast; it takes 90 seconds making methods in flavors like
produces the dairy that goes
photograph: con poulos; food stylist: hadas smirnoff; style editor: suzie myers
flakes of dark chocolate. to produce one pint. Look for the Maine Wild Blueberry Crisp and
into its ice cream. Plus,
$7 per pint; laloos.com. superrich Chocolate or the Brown Butter Pecan.
the wine in the velvety
Boysenberry Rosé Milk refined Earl Grey with Milk $60 for 6 pints; gelatofiasco.com.
Jam comes from the Chocolate Chips. $12 per pint;
owner’s vineyard. $10 per smittenicecream.com.
ORGANIC
pint; mcconnells.com. Three Twins Ice Cream is sold at its
EASY TO FIND California scoop shops and
Based in Minneapolis, Talenti sells at grocers across the country. The
its dense, supercreamy gelato Sundae Cones are a nostalgic
in grocery stores nationwide. The favorite: The cone is coated with
salty-sweet Peanut Butter chocolate on the inside, filled
Pretzel has bits of crunchy salted with ice cream and topped with
pretzels and swirls of peanut melted chocolate and peanuts.
butter and chocolate. From $5 per $6 for a box of 3;
pint; talentigelato.com. threetwinsicecream.com.
SINGLE ORIGIN NEW YORK CENTRIC

Choctál focuses on two flavors, Ample Hills Creamery in Brooklyn,
chocolate and vanilla, highlighting known for its over-the-top flavors
sustainable cacao and vanilla and housemade mix-ins, now sells
beans from different regions pints inspired by the locations
around the world. The clove-and- of its NYC outlets. Their ode to the
nutmeg-scented Dominican Bubby’s Diner takeout window
Chocolate is amazing. $11 per pint; in Manhattan includes root beer
choctal.com. ice cream, mini marshmallows
and chocolate sprinkles.
Matcha
power $40 for 4 pints; amplehills.com.
TEA INFUSED
Tea-Rriffic, a small company out
of Connecticut, adds ingredients
like Japanese matcha to an
all-natural ice cream base. The
results are sweet, savory and
incredibly refreshing. $10 per pint;
tearrificicecream.com.
DAIRY FREE
NadaMoo was founded in
Austin by a pastry chef who
wanted to make amazing
ice cream with coconut milk
for her lactose-intolerant
sister. The delicate pistachio
flavor is studded with
crunchy nuts. From $6 per
pint; nadamoo.com.
AU G U S T 2016 70
Her science camp,
his playdate,
your family reunion.
No sweat.
With everything you need in one shared place,
Cozi helps your family avoid summer meltdowns.
Shared Family Calendar

Shopping & To Do Lists
Meals & Recipe Box
Get Cozi. The #1 family organizing app, available in the App Store.
BOTTLE
SERVICE
How to Chill
Wine Fast
WARM WINE? DON’T PANIC. F&W’S RESIDENT
WINE GURU, RAY ISLE, EXPERIMENTS
WITH EVERYTHING FROM AN ICE CUBE TO
A GADGET THAT WILL COOL YOUR BOTTLE
IN FIVE MINUTES FLAT.
ILLUSTRATION BY BEN WISEMAN
T
HERE ARE A few things in the world that will
make wine experts flip out. I once saw a
model at a party mix Diet Coke with Château
Léoville Las Cases, a famed Bordeaux that
runs $175 or so a bottle; I felt like hurling
myself between her and the wine, the way
you might throw yourself between a baby in
a stroller and an oncoming truck. A more common occurrence
that causes a lot of sommeliers I know to shudder: watching
someone drop a few ice cubes into a glass of wine.
I get it. Warm wine is gross. And if you dump a handful of
ice into your Chardonnay, yes, it will get cold, and fast. It will
also get watery and weak, but plenty of people don’t mind Unfortunately, chilling a glass of white from room
that trade-off. Last year Diane Keaton released a red wine, temperature down to 45 degrees pretty much requires Keaton-
The Keaton, specifically meant to be served over lots of level use of ice, thus resulting in Keaton-level dilution
ice. I tried it; the wine was big and ripe and perfectly tasty. (in fact, I’m going to suggest that wine dilution be measured
Served over a fistful of ice, it was thinner and less flavorful, from now on in Keatons). Even if you chuck the whole bottle
though not unrefreshing. in the freezer, you’re looking at 45 minutes.
So what’s the best solution for the warm- With speed in mind, I tested several wine-
wine problem? Planning ahead is one answer, 5 PICNIC REDS chilling gadgets. Most were useless. I did like
but that’s not always an option. A refrigerator TO DRINK COLD Le Creuset’s Wine Cooler Sleeve ($25; lecreuset
takes about two hours to bring a white wine to Serve these low-tannin, .com), a gel sleeve with a colorful nylon sheath
an ideal temperature, about 45 degrees. And light-bodied that you store in the freezer. Slide it over a
while people often serve reds at room wines at 55˚ or so. bottle, and the wine will reach 50 degrees in
temperature—around 72 degrees—the truth is about 25 minutes; however, I suspect its real
that any red wine will taste better at five to 2014 J. Lohr Estates value lies in keeping already frosty bottles
Wildflower Valdiguié ($10)
10 degrees below that. Some lighter reds are J. Lohr grows some of the only
chilled at summer picnics. The Cooper Cooler
even good at a brisk 55 degrees. Valdiguié grapes in existence. ($80; coopercooler.com), an appliance that
For a single glass of red, here’s my advice: looks like a toaster with a sunroof, was
2014 Joan d’Anguera
Drop a normal-size ice cube into your wine, Altaroses ($20) lightning fast, producing a glacially cold bottle
swirl it around with a spoon for five seconds, Pure Grenache flavor from Spain. in five minutes. It works, however, by spinning
then remove it. I’ve been doing this for years, 2015 Valle dell’Acate the wine rapidly in a water-and-ice bath,
but recently I tested it out a bit more Frappato ($20) which makes a racket reminiscent of a rock
This Sicilian red tastes of
scientifically. I stirred a one-ounce ice cube for tumbler. Perhaps best to keep it in the garage.
strawberries.
five seconds in a five-ounce glass of 76-degree The ideal method, to my mind, is still just
wine. When I took out the cube, the wine 2014 Château Thivin a bucket of water and ice. Fifteen minutes, and
Côte de Brouilly ($25)
was 68 degrees and the cube had shed only Beaujolais from a top producer. your grand cru Chablis will be crisp, chilled
a quarter ounce of water, a twentieth of and ready for the party—or for some dingbat to
2015 Wind Gap Soif ($29)
the liquid in the glass. Was the wine diluted? Star winemaker Pax Mahle come along and mix it 50/50 with Sprite.
Marginally. Did it taste better? Definitely. makes this bright old-vine red. For some crimes, there truly is no forgiveness.
WINE
TALK
Summer
Wine Questions You love to sail in the summer.
What are you drinking onboard?
Answered
Beer is probably the easiest thing to bring
on a boat just because it’s in cans, but
one day I decided that dry sherry would
be a good idea—I’m not sure why. I was
STEVEN GRUBBS OF ATLANTA’S EMPIRE STATE SOUTH totally surprised by how it transformed
RECOMMENDS BOTTLES FOR EVERY AUGUST SCENARIO, the sailing experience. There we were,
FROM A FANTASY SAILING VACATION TO slugging manzanilla out of the bottle and
LESS-THAN-COMPETENT BEACH VOLLEYBALL (HIS SPECIALTY). eating snacks, and it blew my mind
INTERVIEW BY RAY ISLE
that you could be drinking a wine that
tastes like the ocean and could be on
the water at the same time. Everybody
went crazy over it. Though we weren’t
actually on the ocean—we were out on
a lake. But still.
Do you have any fantasy summer
dream trips involving wine?
If I could sail down the Italian coast,
that would be it. Or around Sicily, or
Sardinia, or up near Liguria. The coastal
whites from those places, particularly
Liguria, are total sailboat wines, by the
way—briny, savory and perfect for
drinking with a whole grilled fish.
In lieu of a 10-day sailing trip, how

about an afternoon at the beach?
What would you drink there?
One problem with beaches is that many
won’t allow glass containers. But my
all-time favorite cider producer, Eric
Bordelet, makes an aluminum mini
keg of his ridiculously pure and delicious
Normandy cider, and that’s something
I would totally waterfall into my face all
day long. I admit I’ve sneaked wine onto
the beach, too, like liter-size bottles of
Grüner Veltliner. That cold spiciness
and touch-of-fruit thing that entry-level
Grüner does is just perfect for activities
like incompetent volleyball or poor-form
football toss, both of which I excel at.
Ecker, in Austria’s Wagram region,
probably makes the best liter out there.
What about reds for summer?
Honestly, if I’m hanging outside, I don’t
drink much red. It warms up too
amber fouts
quickly. A simple crisp rosé is one option.

On the other hand—and this is sort of
counterintuitive—if I do have red, I want
WE
TAKE
BIG
STEPS
TO
LEAVE
SMALL
FOOTPRINTS
FOR OVER 30 YEARS, our
family has been making great
wine. If there’s one thing we’ve
learned, it’s the better the soil,
the better the wine. So every
day, we work to ensure the
healthy future of the land all
around us – adopting clean
energy practices, ensuring
biodiversity, and using 1/3 less
©2016 Kendall-Jackson Winery, Santa Rosa, CA KJ16_54548
water than industry average.
SUSTAINABILITY – It’s a Kendall-Jackson Family Value

To learn more visit: kj.com/sustainability
Wine Talk Summer Wine
10
one with some fleshiness. Salice Salentino, from the
extreme south of Italy, is a good example. It’s this lusty
young red, totally casual, and during the summer in
Puglia they drink it all the time. For hot weather, that’s
what you want: a good everyday red that has density and
favorite beach
sluggability at once. Basically a wine you can drink out
of a Solo cup and not feel guilty about it.
& BBQ wines
2014 LA 2014 GAROFOLI 2015 LE MORETTE
So warm wine regions, then, are a great source for CHABLISIENNE MACRINA BARDOLINO
summer reds? SAINT-BRIS ($12) VERDICCHIO DEI CHIARETTO
“These guys are a CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO ($17)
In many cases, yes. It’s similar to how you can pair wines co-op, but they’re a ($14) “This is a style of
from a region with the cuisine of that region. Like with very good co-op. And ”Garofoli has been Bardolino you find
tomatoes. Down in the South we enjoy some pretty awesome this is their wine from really instrumental in around Italy’s Lake
Saint-Bris, the only elevating the quality Garda. Chiaretto
tomatoes in the summer, but they’re tricky with wine. So Sauvignon Blanc area of Castelli di Jesi, an means light, more or
just think about where people eat tomatoes, like Sicily, and in all of Burgundy. area in Italy’s Marche less, so this wine is
that leads you to a wine like COS’s Cerasuolo, which is It has an oyster-shell, region. Its entry-level basically a rosé. It’s
Chablis-like saltiness, Macrina bottling is pale, pretty pink,
terrific with tomatoes. With a puttanesca sauce, that wine but at the same really bright and beautifully aromatic.
just explodes. Or Campanian whites, like Greco di Tufo; time also has all that crisp—just spot-on for I’ve always liked the
citrus character of immediate drinking.” fact that there are so
again that’s a region where tomatoes are an inescapable
Sauvignon Blanc. And many different styles
part of the local cuisine. Sometimes Greco can even smell the price is awesome.” 2014 MICHEL of rosé; this one is
a bit like tomatoes, a kind of yellow-tomato aspect. DELHOMMEAU in a neat little
2013 KUENTZ-BAS MUSCADET SÈVRE unknown corner.”
Summer in Atlanta is certainly hot. What about the ALSACE ET MAINE CUVÉE
food of the American South? Does it go with wine? BLANC ($13) HARMONIE ($14) 2014 THE EYRIE
“This wine became “Delhommeau is such VINEYARDS
I think really traditional Southern food and wine can be a standby for me early a nice guy, and his PINOT GRIS ($21)
delicious together. It’s just that none of us ever grew up in my wine-drinking vineyards are unusual “Eyrie was one of
life. The estate goes because rather than Oregon’s pioneering
exploring those combinations. My mom and grandmother back to the 1700s, being on granite, like wineries, and the first
are both old-school Southern cooks, and no one in our and this is their basic most of Muscadet, to plant Pinot Gris in
family ever drank wine with dinner. blend of Sylvaner, they’re on a kind of the US. This wine has
Auxerrois and Muscat. pure form of hardened great texture, a little
What’s something your mom would make that would It doesn’t ask too lava. It gives his wines weight, but still this
much of you; it has great complexity, and wild soul about it. It’s
be great with wine? just enough nuance a more stark mineral like if you’ve been
She’s always done this really weird dish that I love. The basis to make it fun, but it character that I love.” fishing and you’ve
doesn’t force you caught your snapper
of it is her corn bread, which is awesome—savory, really to pay attention to it.” 2014 VON and you’ve roasted
crispy outside. Then she puts kidney beans on top of that, WINNING it whole, this is what
and pork chops. I mean, that, with some Barbera from 2014 MAURO WINNINGS you’d drink with it.”
MOLINO BARBERA RIESLING ($15)
Italy? That would be so fun. Even in a Solo cup. In fact, now D’ALBA ($13) “It’s a great Riesling at 2013 COS
that I think of it, if wine drinking had been a tradition in “The 2014 vintage for a really good price, CERASUOLO DI
the South, a lot of it would have been in Solo cups. On ice. Barbera is a change and it glides right past VITTORIA
from 2013, which was the whole sweetness CLASSICO ($39)
What got you into wine in the first place? a little rough. The issue. It’s pretty much “The ultimate tomato
’14s are punchy and dry, but you taste it wine. Mario Batali
I started working with Hugh Acheson at Five & Ten. I think generous, but they’re and you don’t think makes a raw tomato
I was 21, and he hired me to be a busboy. He was handling not overripe—really to ask if it’s dry or not sauce with garlic and
good wines. And dry or what; it just herbs that’s just great
all the wine for the restaurant then—and being chef, and
Mauro is this amazing tastes like pure, with this Sicilian red.
maître d’, and maintenance man; he gets more done than grandfatherly fellow. gorgeous Riesling.” Plus it’s 100 percent
anybody I’ve ever seen. But even back then he’d let me try It’s like, ‘Oh, man, organic, and from
wines. One day someone brought in a bottle of ’82 Pétrus how did I not have you NV EL MAESTRO one of Sicily’s best
as my grandfather? SIERRA FINO producers.”
and sent half a glass back to Hugh. And he let me try it! Is there an adopt-a- SHERRY ($16)
I was like, “Wow—that is crazy and delicious and so good.” grandfather program “José Antonio Sierra,
or something?’ ” El Maestro Sierra’s
That’s how damn cool he was. I mean, if someone sent me
founder, was originally
back a glass of ’82 Pétrus, I might hide it. Though if Hugh a barrel-maker for
were around, I’d let him have some. the big sherry houses.
His fino, to me, is a
benchmark: salty,
savory and complex.”
Next stop, Provence:
Château Léoube’s grand
winery. opposite: Pool time
at La Bastide de Gordes.
above: Spinach-and-Ricotta-
Stuffed Tomatoes with
Piquillo Peppers (p. 106).
ULTIMATE
PROVENCE
Whether your tastes run to cozy cottages or

grand châteaus, beaches or hill towns,
long lunches or languid dinners, the south of France
delivers. Read on for our rosé-fueled guide.
by jane sigal photographs by martin morrell
food photographs by con poulos
79
Seeing Julia Child’s Provence cottage
for the first time in 30 years, I was COOK AT
JULIA CHILD’S
rocked by the memory of a two-day
cooking marathon.
COTTAGE
Julia built La Pitchoune (The Little
Thing) on the estate of her friend
and co-author Simone “Simca” Beck.
“Somewhere near Italy,” is how Julia
A 30-minute drive from Cannes, and just outside the medieval town of
liked to describe the location. (It’s west Grasse, Julia’s three-bedroom home is now available to travelers
who want to stay and cook in the place that inspired the culinary legend.
of Nice, in the hills close to Grasse.)
In the early ’80s, I spent a few weeks
there assisting Simca with cooking
classes. But mostly I remember
deboning, stuffing and poaching
chicken after chicken for a birthday
dinner for her husband, Jean
Fischbacher. Those birds, packed with
pistachio-studded forcemeat, were
the highlight of an epic feast for more
than a dozen guests.
I arrived back at “La Peetch” halfway
through a recent tour of Provence.
The cottage is mostly unchanged—except
now there’s a pool. This epitomizes
Provence today: reassuringly the same,
yet in some respects even better.
As I traveled from Cap d’Antibes on the
southeast coast to Gordes in the hilly
north, I found terrifically innovative
chefs as well as unwaveringly
traditional cooks. I was thrilled by the
sheer deliciousness of the rosés.
And I stayed at what might be France’s
dreamiest hotel, in a 12th-century
castle built into a hill.
As for La Pitchoune, the new owners
rent it out for short stays, offer
yoga retreats and plan to launch
cooking classes. I can’t imagine
they’ll teach anything as haute as
those pistachio-stuffed birds,
but I’m available to help if they do.
Jane Sigal is an F&W contributing editor and, most recently, the

author of Bistronomy: Recipes from the Best New Paris Bistros.
La Pitchoune
On the day I drove up the road to Julia’s vine-covered cottage, two-inch frame. (Johnston is almost as tall.) I walked the
renters had just finished preparing lunch in the near- steep terraced property, still planted with olive trees, cypresses
mythical kitchen, its pegboard walls marked with the heavy and lavender bushes, trying to sync my recollections with
black outlines of pots, lids, dough hooks and whisks for what was in front of me. Shielding my eyes against the sun,
easy rehanging. One of the new American owners, life coach I wistfully noted the swimming pool just below the wisteria-
Makenna Johnston—a Smith College grad, just like Julia shaded terrace. I wish it had existed 30 years ago; I would
and I—has left the dinged tools and embossed ingredient labels have loved to float in it and soak up the Provençal sun after
intact. She also hasn’t changed the unusually tall counters, cooking all day. From $625 per night; Châteauneuf-Grasse;
which were built specially to accommodate Julia’s six-foot, lapeetch.com.
Julia’s lovely
wisteria-covered
arbor is still
intact, and so
is her famed
kitchen, below.
EAT ON THE CÔTE D’AZUR
Stretching from the Italian border to St. Tropez, this glittering coast is the most glamorous part of Provence. I found
an outstanding prix fixe menu from one of the world’s best chefs at Mirazur in Menton; had a masterful modern meal
at the hotel restaurant Villa Fabulite in Cap d’Antibes; and rediscovered classics at Les Arcades, in the town of Biot.
Mirazur Squid and Summer moderate heat until just

While most of the top-tier chefs in Provence gravitate to big Vegetable Salad opaque throughout, about
cities, Mauro Colagreco is the exception. Having trained with with Preserved Lemon 1 minute. Add the poached
squid to the vinaigrette.
three of France’s (and the world’s) great cooks—Alain Passard, Dressing
Alain Ducasse and Bernard Loiseau—the Argentina-born Total 1 hr; Serves 4 4. Drain the iced vegetables
Colagreco established himself in the quiet town of Menton, and pat thoroughly dry. Add the
4 red radishes, sliced
half an hour east of Nice. In his decade there, he’s put vegetables, tomatoes, olives
paper thin
and herbs to the squid and mix
Menton on the map with Mirazur, which this year rose to ½ small zucchini, sliced well. Transfer the salad to
the No. 6 spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. paper thin plates and drizzle with any
The location, a multilevel glass-and-steel building, offers ½ small yellow squash, remaining vinaigrette. Garnish
unbelievable harbor views and the occasional scent of sliced paper thin with piment d’Espelette
citrus blossom wafting up from the terraced grove below. ½ fennel bulb, halved and fleur de sel. —Cyrille
That’s fitting: The chef infuses modern dishes, like his lengthwise and sliced Chaussade, Villa Fabulite
crab and grapefruit with white rose petals and almond foam, paper thin WINE A bright coastal white
with the region’s most fragrant plants and flowers. Yet his 3 Tbsp. white balsamic from Corsica: 2014 Yves
$62 prix fixe lunch menu is one of the best deals in the south vinegar Leccia Domaine d’E Croce
of France. 30 Ave. Aristide Briand, Menton; mirazur.fr. 1 Tbsp. minced preserved Patrimonio Blanc.
lemon rind
Villa Fabulite 1 Tbsp. minced shallot Chile Oil–Marinated

Goat Cheese
This 15-room design hotel is home to the friendliest restaurant ½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-
virgin olive oil Active 10 min plus 3 days
in the swanky town of Cap d’Antibes. In his tiny open kitchen, marinating; Serves 6
Cyrille Chaussade constantly updates a short menu with what’s Kosher salt and pepper
9 dried chiles de árbol
best at the local market; in the summer months he packs his 12 oz. cleaned squid,
citrusy squid salad with cherry tomatoes and shaved zucchini. bodies sliced crosswise One semifirm 11-oz.
¼ inch thick and log of goat cheese, cut
A meal here feels like having your very own chef cook for
tentacles left whole into 6 pieces
you in a private garden. After dinner, be sure to take the three-
8 cherry tomatoes, halved 3 to 4 cups extra-virgin
minute walk to the beach, where dramatic coves are cradled
or quartered if large olive oil
by rock formations that jut out into the sea. Back at the hotel,
12 niçoise olives, pitted Toasted sliced
snug, lovely guest rooms like my gold-and-aquamarine
baguette or sourdough
one promise a blissful night’s sleep. From $120 per night; ¼ cup chopped mixed
bread, for serving
herbs, such as parsley,
150 Traverse des Nielles, Cap d’Antibes; fabulite.com.
basil and chives Scatter 3 of the chiles in the
bottom of a small bowl at least
Les Arcades
Piment d’Espelette and
fleur de sel, for garnish 3 inches deep. Arrange the
I first visited this restaurant 25 years ago with my mother, when cheese in a single layer over
1. Soak the radishes, the chiles; top with 3 more
I was researching my second cookbook. Clearly, my return to zucchini, squash and fennel
La Pitchoune required another pilgrimage to Les Arcades for chiles. Pour in enough olive oil
food stylist: vivian lui; style editor: suzie myers
slices in a bowl of ice water. to submerge the cheese.

some quintessential southern French cooking. Opened in
2. In a bowl, mix the vinegar Crumble the remaining 3 chiles
1952, it sits under 15th-century arches in the tiny town of Biot,
with the preserved lemon and into the oil. Cover and mari-
15 miles from Nice. The walls are still hung with paintings shallot. Slowly whisk in ½ cup nate in the refrigerator for at
by artists who bartered their work for food, including Vasarely, of the olive oil. Season the vin- least 3 days. Bring to room
Braque and Folon. And there was the 91-year-old owner, Mimi aigrette with salt and pepper. temperature before serving.
Brothier. When I told her about my history with her restaurant, 3. In a large skillet, combine the
(Once the cheese is done,
she wrapped me in a warm hug. I asked for more dishes than strain the chile oil and use in
remaining 1 tablespoon of oil
any normal person could consume—stuffed squash blossoms; other dishes.) —Adapted from
with 2 tablespoons of water and
rabbit with olives, garlic and mushrooms; fresh goat cheese Les Arcades
bring to a simmer. Add the
marinated in chile oil—and a waiter jotted down my order in squid and season with salt and MAKE AHEAD The cheese can
neat columns on the paper table cover that doubles as the pepper. Cover and cook over be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
check. Happily, some things never change. 14/16 Place des
Arcades, Biot; hotel-restaurant-les-arcades.com.
“A meal at Villa Fabulite feels like
having your very own chef
cook for you in a private garden.”
Fennel adds freshness

to squid salad. right:
Goat cheese marinated
in chile oil at the
art-filled Les Arcades
restaurant in Biot.
Plate from March.
DRINK ROSÉ ALL DAY
The south of France produces fantastic rosé. The Côtes de Provence west of St. Tropez is a great place to try both innovative
versions (at Château Léoube) and ultraclassic ones (at Commanderie de Peyrassol and Domaines Ott). There are other sublime
experiences at these properties, too—from laid-back beach cafés to contemporary art set along vineyard trails.
Château Léoube by vines, are must-visits. Peyrassol’s tasting room is likewise

Stretching out to the azure sea, Château Léoube is owned distinctive, created from the rubble of one of the oldest buildings
by an estimable British duo: Lord and Lady Bamford, on the property. Those pale, mineral-inflected rosés pair
the forces behind England’s Daylesford Organic Farmshops beautifully with chef Guillaume Delauné’s modern Provençal
& Cafés. They purchased the property in order to restore dishes, like tomatoes stuffed with ricotta and spinach (p. 106).
the ancient vineyard using sustainable farming. At Léoube, From $146 per night; RN7, Flassans-sur-Issole; peyrassol.com.
Romain Ott, of the Domaines Ott family, produces a
bottling he calls super-rosé, which gets its complexity from
old vines. He also makes an array of more widely
Domaines Ott
Ott operates three estates across Provence, but visitors can
available wines, which you can try at the estate’s small
sample all the wines at the palm-fringed seaside winery
café, in a sandy pine forest near the beach. 2387 Route
in La Londe-les-Maures. Co-director Jean-François Ott helped
de Léoube, Bormes-les-Mimosas; chateauleoube.com.
me taste my way through an array of bottlings. When
I admired the Clos Mireille’s light color, he schooled me: “Dark
Commanderie de Peyrassol rosés are just as refreshing.” Next up, a short drive to L’Estagnol
This 800-year-old wine estate recently opened a farm-chic (restaurant-lestagnol.fr), the beach shack of my dreams, where,
B&B outfitted with antique mirrors and galvanized steel tubs. from my director’s chair on the sand, I watched the cooks feed
The property’s contemporary art gallery and the sculpture whole sea bass and ratatouille into a wood-burning oven.
park, with works by Frank Stella and Jean Dubuffet surrounded Route de Brégançon, La Londe-les-Maures; domaines-ott.com.
Managing director Alban

Cacaret at Commanderie
de Peyrassol, where the art
includes a Gavin Turk
door sculpture, left. Its chic
B&B, right, opened in 2015.
Grilled Fish with TAPENADE sionally, until softened, about for 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley
Tapenade and ¼ cup pitted kalamata 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. and season the ratatouille with
Smoky Ratatouille olives Repeat the process with the smoked salt.
chopped zucchini and then the
Total 45 min; Serves 4 ¼ cup pitted oil-cured 3. Make the tapenade In a
black olives
eggplant, cooking each vegeta-
RATATOUILLE food processor, combine
ble in 1½ tablespoons of
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil all of the ingredients and pulse
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil the olive oil until tender, about
until the tapenade is chunky.
2 garlic cloves, lightly 8 minutes each.
1 small red bell pepper,
crushed 4. Prepare the fish Light a grill
cut into ½-inch pieces 2. Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons more
2 oil-packed anchovies, and oil the grate. Rub the fish
1 small zucchini, cut into of the olive oil in the saucepan.
drained all over with the olive oil and
½-inch pieces Add the onion, garlic and her-
season with salt and pepper.
1 Tbsp. capers bes de Provence, season with
1 very small eggplant, Grill, covered, over moderately
cut into ½-inch pieces 1½ tsp. chopped thyme kosher salt and cook over
high heat, turning once, until
(1¼ cups) low heat, stirring, until the onion
1½ tsp. chopped rosemary just opaque, 5 to 7 minutes per
1 medium onion, finely
is softened, about 10 minutes.
side. Transfer the fish to a work
FISH Add the tomatoes and sugar and
chopped surface and remove the fillets.
Canola oil, for brushing season with kosher salt and
4 garlic cloves, minced Transfer to plates and serve
pepper. Cook, partially covered,
Two 1½- to 2-lb. whole with the smoky ratatouille,
½ tsp. herbes de Provence until the sauce thickens, about
black bass, sea bass, tapenade and lemon halves.
Kosher salt and pepper porgy or dorade, cleaned 20 minutes. Stir in the remain-
—Adapted from L’Estagnol
ing 2 tablespoons of the olive
Two 14-oz. cans fire- 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil MAKE AHEAD The ratatouille
oil and all of the sautéed vege-
roasted diced tomatoes can be refrigerated for 3 days;
Kosher salt and pepper tables. Cover partially and cook
Pinch of sugar the tapenade can be refriger-
2 lemons, halved
¼ cup chopped parsley ated for 2 days; serve both at
1. Make the ratatouille In a room temperature.
Smoked salt
large saucepan, heat 1½ table- WINE Racy, fruit-tinged rosé:
spoons of the olive oil. Add 2015 Sulauze Côteaux d’Aix-en-
the red pepper and cook over Provence Pomponette.
moderate heat, stirring occa-
Grilled fish and

ratatouille inspired
by L’Estagnol.
STAY IN A CASTLE
The insider’s Provence is up in the hills north of the coast, between the ancient cities of Arles and Avignon. That’s where you can find
the stunning, newly renovated château-turned-hotel La Bastide de Gordes; shop a renowned flea market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
with finds from all over France; and discover crisp-crusted pizza at a charming little parlor that embodies the region’s small-town spirit.
La Bastide de Gordes Niçoise Salad with 3. Meanwhile, in a medium

I’ve always had a secret dream of living in an 18th-century Baby Artichokes saucepan of salted boiling water,
toile de Jouy scene, capering with the shepherdesses next to Total 1 hr 15 min; Serves 4 to 6 blanch the beans until crisp-
stone turrets. I came as close as I ever will at this sumptuously tender, about 3 minutes. Drain
½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. and transfer to another ice
refurbished fortress-hotel, where bedrooms are swathed extra-virgin olive oil
bath to cool.
in the pastoral fabric. The historic details (antique bath tiles,
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
intricate wood paneling) are balanced by modern comforts 4. Squeeze the lemon half into
Kosher salt and pepper a bowl of cold water. Snap off
like a Sisley spa and four outdoor and indoor pools. The
1 dozen quail eggs or the outer leaves of 1 artichoke.
Bastide’s La Citadelle restaurant serves impeccable New
4 large eggs Using a sharp knife, cut off its
Provençal dishes, like einkorn risotto with raw and cooked
top half and trim the base and
spring onions. L’Orangerie bistro hews closer to tradition: 8 oz. green beans, trimmed
stem. Using a melon baller
That’s where I fell for this outstanding salade niçoise (right), ½ lemon or a spoon, scoop out the furry
with the surprise of shaved local baby artichokes mixed 4 baby artichokes choke. Add the artichoke to
in. From $220 per night; Rue de la Combe, Gordes; bastide- the lemon water. Repeat with the
4 oz. mixed baby greens
de-gordes.com. (8 cups) remaining artichokes. Very
thinly slice the artichokes and
4 tomatoes (1½ lbs.), cut
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue into wedges
return them to the lemon water.
5. Arrange the baby greens on
Flea Market 3 bell peppers, preferably a
mix of colors, thinly sliced a platter. Drain the artichokes
and pat dry with paper towels.
Sharp-eyed interior designers and antiques buyers can outfit
Two 7-oz. cans good- Arrange the artichokes, toma-
entire homes with the French country furniture and quality tuna in olive oil,
toes, bell peppers, tuna, ancho-
housewares from the flea market that takes over the town drained and flaked
vies, olives, eggs and green
center on Sundays. Within five minutes of rummaging 12 salted anchovy fillets, beans on the greens in rows;
through one of the stalls, I’d discovered a treasure I just had bones discarded, alternatively, gently mix the
to buy: a shiny yellow mustard pot–salt cellar with an rinsed and patted dry
salad. Drizzle half of the dress-
iridescent blue cicada, the iconic symbol of Provence. By 12 niçoise olives ing over the salad and garnish
3 p.m. the stands were well picked over, so I happily Chopped basil, with basil. Serve the remaining
sipped a citron pressé (in France, the DIY lemonade comes for garnish dressing on the side.
with a glass of fresh lemon juice, a water carafe and a —L’Orangerie, La Bastide de
1. In a small bowl, gradually Gordes
small canister of sugar) at a café in the sun overlooking the
whisk the olive oil into the vin-
rushing Sorgue River. egar until incorporated.
MAKE AHEAD The dressing can
be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Season with salt and pepper.
Pizza Brun 2. In a medium saucepan, cover
WINE Minerally Côtes de
Provence rosé: 2015 Château
Bruno and Colette Brun’s marvelous pizza parlor in the quail eggs with 2 inches of
de Roquefort Corail.
Maussane-les-Alpilles, outside Les Baux and not far from water and bring to a boil. Cover
the pan, remove from the heat continued on p. 106
Arles, has a well-deserved cult following. It’s in a stone
and let stand for 5 minutes.
cottage with sky-blue shutters and colorful metal chairs, the
(If using large eggs, let stand
kind of setting that exemplifies laid-back, small-town off the heat for 10 minutes.)
Provence. I lingered in the courtyard, sipping inexpensive but Transfer the eggs to a bowl of
delicious rosé, waiting for the cowbell to ring, signaling ice water and let cool com-
that my order was ready. At last, the clang. My wood-fired pie pletely. Peel and halve them.
topped with mozzarella, tomatoes and niçoise olives
deserved the advance praise, with a crust that shattered when
I touched it. I also loved the reinvention of a pissaladière,
the classic tart, into a superb pizza topped with caramelized
onions, olives, anchovies and a little melted Emmental.
Ave. de la Vallée des Baux, Maussane-les-Alpilles.
A short drive from
La Bastide de
Gordes, left, is L’Isle-
sur-la-Sorgue, above,
and its flea market.
Plate from March.
“The niçoise
salad at
La Bastide de
Gordes has
the surprise of
shaved local
baby artichokes
mixed in.”
SCALLOP
CARPACCIO
Knife tip: Thinly
sliced scallops are
tender enough to eat
raw. They’re topped
here with radishes and
hand-cut ginger-chive
pesto (p. 108).
Plate by Christiane
Perrochon from
Tableart. Opposite:
Knife from Horne.
IF YOU CAN’T
STAND THE HEAT
TURN OFF
THAT
STOVE.
Put away the charcoal.
All you need for
summer’s freshest
recipes is a visit to
the farm stand and a
REALLY
SHARP
KNIFE.
Recipes by JUSTIN CHAPPLE and KAY CHUN

Photographs by CON POULOS
Introduction by FRANCIS LAM
The funny thing about great summer cooking is that the best of
it involves no actual cooking. The ingredients basically do the work: Sharpen Up
delicate sugar snap peas nestling among fat chunks of watermelon;
crisp radish rounds falling on pearly, raw scallops. In summer, food
A word of warning: Don’t
can be easy. But not necessarily simple.
tackle any of the recipes
Because in the most basic act of cooking—the cutting—there is deep
here without first sharpening
meaning. Sometimes I think this, not the mastery of fire, is really
your knives. For a tutorial
what separates us from animals. A tiger might conceivably happen
on how to use a whetstone
upon some poor antelope that was fried by lightning. But only a
from legendary chef Jacques
human will ever know how slicing carpaccio translucently thin lets it
Pépin, go to foodandwine
dissolve between your teeth. Considering that the first, most primal
.com/sharp. Alternatively,
part of eating is biting food into pieces, how brilliant is it that people
off-load the work to one of
have dedicated thousands of years of craft and ceremony to taking
the mail-order services
that work out of our mouths and putting it into our hands?
below. You have our
I once saw a sushi chef pick up his knife, wicked as a straight razor
permission to eat out until
smoking cigarettes, and nick it into the side of a daikon. He made
your blades come back.
the smallest motion, a bare tremble, and began shaving around the
radish, unspooling it into one long, ribbon-thin sheet. His tool was Korin
from a 400-year-old knife-maker; the chef had spent five decades of New York City chefs’ go-to
his life training how to use it. Watching him meditate on the knife shop for 30 years,
precise point where blade met food, I realized that this was a form specializing in Japanese
of devotion. It was what he was meant to do. blades. korin.com.
I remember this when I think about how all you need is a knife—
Seattle Knife Sharpening
a trusty, sharp one—to truly transform ingredients. More than that,
& Supply
using a knife also helps focus your mind. You can slow down and put
Owner Bob Tate uses a
everything you have, for just a moment, into a simple act that
special honing process with as
nourishes you, in more ways than one. In summer, the ingredients
many as seven steps.
may be doing the work, but you are doing the living.
seattleknifesharpening.com.
Francis Lam is editor at large at Clarkson Potter and a columnist for the Precision Knife Sharpening
New York Times Magazine. A well-designed site
automates the process and
provides email updates.
precisionknifesharpening.com.
Vegetable-Chicken 4 baby Chioggia or golden 1. In a small bowl, whisk the sides as you roll. Repeat with
beets, scrubbed fish sauce with the lime juice, the remaining wrappers and fill-
Summer Rolls
and very thinly sliced water, sugar and Thai chile. ings. Serve the rolls with the
Total 40 min; Makes 8
Serves 4 1 cup shredded cooked dipping sauce. —Justin Chapple
2. Fill a large shallow bowl with
chicken (4 oz.)
¼ cup Asian fish sauce
hot water. Soak 1 rice paper MAKE AHEAD The summer rolls
2 ears of corn, kernels wrapper at a time in the water can be covered in moist
¼ cup fresh lime juice cut off for 30 seconds, until just pli- paper towels and refrigerated
2 Tbsp. water 2 oz. sunflower sprouts able. Spread on a work surface. in an airtight container for
1 tsp. sugar (1½ cups) Top the wrapper with some 3 hours. The dipping sauce can
1 Hass avocado—peeled,
of the beets, chicken, corn, be refrigerated overnight.
1 Thai chile, stemmed and sprouts, avocado, basil and let-
very thinly sliced pitted and sliced WINE Mineral-laced
tuce. Tightly roll up the wrapper
1½ cups small basil leaves Italian white: 2014 Ciro Picari-
Eight 8-inch round rice around the filling, tucking in the
ello Fiano di Avellino.
paper wrappers 4 small red lettuce
leaves, torn
VEGETABLE-CHICKEN
SUMMER ROLLS
Knife tip: When sliced superthin, raw beets become
surprisingly pliable and supple enough to fold into a summer
roll with avocado, corn, sprouts and chicken.
Marble board by
Roost from Modish.
Tofu Banh Mi 1 baguette (about 2. Meanwhile, line a baking
20 inches long), sheet with paper towels.
Sandwiches
halved lengthwise Arrange the tofu slices on the
Active 30 min; Total 1 hr
Serves 4 ½ cup liverwurst (4 oz.) sheet in a single layer and top
with more paper towels. Gently
1 cup distilled white 8 oz. sliced ham
press to remove excess water.
vinegar Thinly sliced serrano
or jalapeño chiles and 3. Spread the mayonnaise on
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
cilantro sprigs, for garnish the top half of the split baguette;
1 tsp. sugar spread the liverwurst on
1. In a medium bowl, combine the bottom. Arrange the ham
3 garlic cloves, crushed
the vinegar, salt, sugar, garlic slices on the liverwurst,
3 oz. hothouse cucumber, and ½ cup of water and whisk slightly overlapping the slices,
julienned until the salt is dissolved. Add then top with the tofu and pick-
4 oz. daikon, peeled and the cucumber, daikon and car- led vegetables. Garnish with
julienned rots and mix well. Let stand chiles and cilantro sprigs. Close
4 oz. multicolored carrots, for 30 minutes, tossing occa- the sandwiches, cut into
peeled and julienned sionally. Drain the pickled 4 pieces and serve. —Kay Chun
vegetables and pick out and
One 14-oz. package MAKE AHEAD The drained
firm tofu, drained and discard the garlic.
pickled vegetables can be
sliced 1/8 inch thick
refrigerated for 3 days.
½ cup mayonnaise
BEER Tangy, summery Gose:
Westbrook Brewing Co.
Knife tip: To julienne

carrots, cucumbers and
daikon for the quick pickles
in these sandwiches,
slice the vegetables on a bias
about an eighth of an
inch thick, then stack and
cut into matchsticks.
GREEN-MARKET TACOS
Knife tip: Once you’ve cut the kernels off of corncobs, use the back
of the knife to scrape the sweet “milk” from the cobs to
flavor the crema for these incredibly good vegetable tacos (p. 108).
Plate and bowl by

Christiane Perrochon
from TableArt.
MARINATED FETA AND
NECTARINE FATTOUSH
Knife tip: Feta absorbs dressing better when cut into thin
slabs. The cheese, nectarines and pita are delicious
paired with a tangy coriander-spiked vinaigrette (p. 110).
Bowl by Jim Franco

Ceramics.
Apricot Parfaits 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, the sugar dissolves. Add the cream, confectioners’ sugar
softened apricots and mix well; let and vanilla seeds until stiff
with Mascarpone
Whipped Cream ½ cup mascarpone stand at room temperature for peaks form.
15 minutes.
Total 40 min; Serves 4 ½ cup heavy cream 4. Stir the chopped mint into the
2. In a medium bowl, using apricots. Spoon the apricots
2 Tbsp. Cognac or 2 Tbsp. confectioners’
sugar
a fork, mix the graham cracker and their juices into four 4- to
other brandy
crumbs with the butter, ¼ tea- 6-ounce glasses. Top with the
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ½ vanilla bean, split spoon of salt and the remaining mascarpone whipped cream
lengthwise and seeds
3½ Tbsp. superfine sugar 1½ tablespoons of superfine and the crumble and serve
scraped
sugar until evenly moistened. right away. —JC
Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh mint Press the mixture into clumps
MAKE AHEAD The apricots,
12 apricots—halved, and refrigerate until just firm,
pitted and cut into 1. In a medium bowl, whisk the mascarpone whipped cream
about 10 minutes.
½-inch wedges Cognac with the lemon juice, and the crumble can be refriger-
2 tablespoons of the superfine 3. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, ated separately overnight.
½ cup graham cracker
sugar and a pinch of salt until using a hand mixer, beat the
crumbs (from recipes continued on p. 108
4 to 5 crackers) mascarpone with the heavy
Don’t Lose Your Edge

Throwing a sharp knife into a drawer is the fastest way to dull it. Here, three alternatives.
Countertop Block Wall Strip Drawer Dock

Choose a “universal model” that can Magnets hold blades up and in clear Look for a holder with slots that can
fit any knife in any slot. Wüsthof sight so you can instantly find the fit a range of knife sizes or that can
Designer 13-slot block, $200; williams- one you want. Messermeister acacia expand to fit any drawer. Bamboo dock,
sonoma.com. magnet, $75; messermeister.com. $50; containerstore.com.
TOMATO
AND
SARDINE
CRISPS
Knife tip: Cherry tomato halves might roll
right off these rye crackers. Cut them into
slices instead, then set on the crisps with
sardines and herbs (p. 108).
BLADES Bob
OF GLORY: Kramer,
3 Knives Knife
Every Cook Jedi
Should Own SERRATED
The toothed Kramer, one of 120
blade is useful master bladesmiths in
PARING
for slicing the US, has a cult
CHEF’S A paring knife picks up
bread or foods following, especially
For slicing steak, where a chef’s knife
with waxy among chefs. After
whacking coconuts— leaves off. It’s ideal for slicing
surfaces like running tests on some
pretty much and mincing smaller
tomatoes. recent orders of steel,
anything. The side of ingredients and for peeling
fruits and vegetables. F&W Test the admitted control
the blade is great
Kitchen Pick freak was not happy with
for crushing garlic. F&W Test Kitchen Pick
Dexter Basics the quality. So he
F&W Test Kitchen Pick Miyabi Kaizen 4.5" set up a crucible and
Scalloped
Masamoto Virgin The lightweight design induction cooker in
Offset
Carbon Steel Gyutou and thin blade make his Seattle workshop
This style
The carbon steel it easy to produce fine, even to make his own steel.
protects
holds its edge slices.” —Justin Chapple
way better than stainless $120; zwillingonline.com.
my knuckles.”
—Emily Tylman
“Thomas
steel.” —Kay Chun
From $182; korin.com.
Chef Pick $19; dexter1818 Keller
Chef Pick
Shun Classic
Limited-Edition
.com.
has his
Middleton Made Knives “Streamlined
Chef Pick
Victorinox 10"
own
“I take mine everywhere. and nice to hold.”
—Jenn Louis,
“One of the gardens
so he
Whenever I bring one
most versatile
out, all the cooks around Lincoln, Portland,
knives I’ve
me ask to hold it.” OR $40; williams-
sonoma.com.
ever used.” has more
control
—Sean Brock, McCrady’s,
—Eli Kulp,
Charleston, SC Best New Knife High Street
From $280; middleton Wüsthof Epicure on Market, over
ingredients.
madeknives.com.
Makes easy work Philadelphia
Best New Knife of garlic and $55; jbprince
Chubo Kazan shallots. $90; .com. That’s
HAP40 Hammered
Gyutou 210 MM
surlatable.com.
Best New what I’m
The textured
Knife
Kai Wasabi
trying
finish keeps food
from sticking.
Black to do.”
$220; chubo Inexpensive He also adds a dash of
knives.com. Japanese meteorite, melting it to
craftsmanship. create bright streaks of
$29; amazon nickel in the blade. His
.com. obsessive craftsmanship
has led to so much
demand that he only
sells via lottery on
kramerknives.com.
AU G U S T 2016 97 AU G U S T 2016
PHOTOGR APHS BY
Eliesa Johnson
FOOD PHOTOGR APHS BY
John Kernick
Superjuicy, indescribably
tender and more aromatic
than any green-market
peach you’ve ever tasted,
the fruit sold by The Peach
Truck has Nashville’s best
cooks swooning. Pastry chef
Lisa Donovan takes a bite.
peaches:
a love story
98
The Peach Truck’s
Stephen and Jessica
Rose sell 15 varieties,
including July
Prince, opposite.
Have you ever had a trash can peach,
a specimen so juicy you have to eat it in so many of the good decisions I’ve great moment, and it felt like every
hunched over a garbage pail? If not, made as a pastry chef. Could we have met big dreamer lived in my neighborhood,
you’ve probably never met my friend at City House in 2008, where I first in my city. Back then, we seized each
Stephen Rose. He is the owner of learned what a trash can peach was as opportunity and took every risk.
The Peach Truck, a small company that my chef, Tandy Wilson, and I ate one, These days, Nashville is changing as it
sells impeccable fruit from Pearson laughing and covered in juice? tries to grow up. And Stephen’s peaches,
Farm in Fort Valley, Georgia—his quiet Perhaps he and I met some other time which appear at restaurants all over
hometown. The Peach Truck is named over the next several years as we circled town, are an integral part of that. Now
after the 1964 Jeep that Stephen and each other at Nashville pop-up dinners they’re spooned over the biscuit
his wife and business partner, Jessica, and block parties. The city was bursting breakfast sandwich (p. 112) at Barista
use to deliver that fruit, just hours off the with new ideas then, with great music Parlor, simmered in a pork ragù (p. 103)
tree, to a cult following of chefs and and fancy jeans. Weren’t peaches always at The 404 Kitchen, tossed with spicy
farmers’ market devotees in Nashville. at the center? Come 2013, I was seeing grilled sausages (p. 104) at City House.
Stephen and I can’t remember when Stephen every week at Husk restaurant, Stephen and I have grown up, too. Last
we first met; it’s all a hazy peach dream. both of us with real jobs: I in a crisp year he and Jessica partnered with Uber
He swears he’s only been selling in apron, he with his clipboard of orders on a delivery app, and they’ve begun
Nashville since 2012, but that simply and crates of peaches. He felt like a shipping across the country through
can’t be true, because I’m pretty certain childhood friend. Today we remember their website, thepeachtruck.com.
he and his fruit have been major players each other’s faces from those days, our He and I both have accountants and
conversations and the important choices employees now. We have homes and
we made. But still, we don’t know when, children. But when I think about those
exactly, our paths first crossed. early days, full of hope and excitement,
Is this the power of the peach, a fruit I always remember that first bite
so seductive it has made us somewhat of summer fruit. Life felt ripe with
oblivious to the passage of time? In those possibility, just like one of those peaches.
early days Nashville was steeped in a kind
of strange magic: We were part of a very
Stephen Rose grew

up picking fruit at
Pearson’s, the fifth-
generation Georgia
farm that supplies
The Peach Truck.
“Stephen and his
fruit have been
major players in so
many of the good
decisions I’ve made
as a pastry chef.”
Stephen and Jessica
fuel up near Fort Valley,
Georgia, en route to
Nashville. opposite: An
array of peachy dishes,
including a spicy sausage
one from chef Tandy
Wilson (in baseball cap).
5 peach truck pit stops

The Peach Truck delivers to die-hard fans all over gemelli with peach-
Nashville. Here’s where to find its fruit. and-pork ragù
BAKESHARE BARISTA PARLOR HUSK NASHVILLE CIT Y HOUSE THE 404 KITCHEN
Lisa Donovan is a On summer Sundays, Chef Sean Brock came City House was the first At his restaurant, chef
self-taught pastry chef The Peach Truck parks across The Peach Truck door that Stephen and Matt Bolus says, “my
known for her time in front of Andy while sourcing Jessica Rose knocked on favorite thing to do is
at Husk Nashville. Now Mumma’s coffee shop. ingredients at a local back in 2012. Chef top a fresh cheese
you can find her slinging Locals stop in for a farmers’ market. “I could Tandy Wilson bought like ricotta with sliced
peach hand pies for her cold brew called The smell the peaches a crate of peaches on peaches, a drizzle of
CSA-style BakeShare. Giant Peach or a before I could even see the spot. “On a warm local honey and some
She also organizes pop- breakfast sandwich, them,” he says. “I love summer day, I will slurp mint. It’s heavenly.”
up bakeshops at places then buy a bag of fruit pickling them and then down one of these He also uses the fruit
such as musician Jack to take home. using the fragrant juicy peaches. They in everything from
White’s recording studio, vinegar to dress salads.” practically dissolve in cocktails and cobblers
Third Man Records. Biscuit Breakfast your hand,” he says. to pastas.
Sandwiches Grilled Chicken
Peach Hand Pies, p. 112 with Peach-Ginger Thighs with Pickled Sausages with Gemelli with
Peach-Buttermilk Jam, p. 112 Peaches, p. 104 Peaches and Pickled Peach–and–Yellow
Ice Cream, p. 104 The Giant Peach, Chiles, p. 104 Tomato Pork Ragù,
p. 110 Grilled Pizza with p. 103
Peaches and Aged — JULIA HEFFELFINGER
Cheddar, p. 113
grilled chicken the giant peach,
with pickled p. 110
peaches, p. 104
biscuit sandwich
with peach jam, p. 112
sausages with
peaches, p. 104
Gemelli with Peach–and– 4 medium yellow tomatoes moderately high heat, turning, sauce over moderate heat, stir-
(about 2 lbs.), quartered
Yellow Tomato Pork Ragù until golden brown all over, ring occasionally, until slightly
Active 30 min; Total 4 hr 40 min 2 Tbsp. gin about 8 minutes. Add the thickened, 10 minutes.
Serves 6 peaches, yellow tomatoes, gin,
1 rosemary sprig 3. In a large pot of salted boiling
rosemary, ginger and ½ cup of
“Tomatoes and peaches are the 1½ Tbsp. minced peeled water, cook the pasta until
water and bring to a boil. Cover
perfect expression of summer, fresh ginger al dente. Drain, reserving ½ cup
and braise in the oven until
so why not put them together?” of the pasta water. Stir the
1 lb. gemelli pasta the pork is very tender, about
says chef Matt Bolus of The shredded pork, pasta, pasta
1 cup cherry tomatoes, 3 hours. Transfer the pork to
404 Kitchen in Nashville. Pep- water, cherry tomatoes and the
halved a work surface and let cool
pery ginger cuts the natural ½ cup of cheese into the sauce
slightly. When cool enough to
sweetness of the fruit and the ½ cup freshly grated Grana and cook until hot, about 3 min-
handle, shred the meat into
richness of the pork. Padano cheese, plus more utes. Season with salt and pep-
for serving large pieces.
per. Transfer the pasta to bowls,
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Torn basil leaves, for 2. Meanwhile, working in garnish with basil and pass
One 3-lb. boneless pork garnish 2 batches, puree the braising extra cheese at the table.
shoulder roast liquid in a blender until smooth;
1. Preheat the oven to 325°. MAKE AHEAD The ragù can be
Kosher salt and pepper wipe out the casserole. Strain
In a large enameled cast-iron refrigerated for up to 2 days
the sauce through a sieve set
4 medium peaches (about casserole, heat the olive oil. and gently reheated.
over the casserole. Simmer the
1½ lbs.), quartered
Season the pork with salt and WINE Juicy Chilean Chardon-
pepper and cook over nay: 2015 Viña Leyda.
Sausages with Peaches Grilled Chicken Thighs 2. In the large saucepan, com- 1. Bring a medium saucepan
and Pickled Chiles with Pickled Peaches bine all the remaining ingredi- of water to a boil. Fill a large bowl
page 103 page 103 ents with 1½ cups of water and with ice water. Using a sharp
bring to a boil, stirring to dis- paring knife, mark an X on the
Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 30 min Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr plus
Serves 4 overnight brining and pickling solve the sugar. Let the brine bottom of each peach. Add the
Serves 4 to 6 cool slightly, then pour over the peaches to the saucepan and
This supersimple dish is from peaches and let cool completely. blanch until the skins start to
Tandy Wilson of City House in At Husk Nashville, Sean Brock Cover and refrigerate overnight. peel away, 1 to 2 minutes. Trans-
Nashville. The combination of pickles that remarkable Peach fer the peaches to the ice bath
sweet, spicy and tangy flavors Truck fruit, then chars it on the 3. Meanwhile, prepare the
and let cool completely. Wipe
is intensely satisfying. grill for a double layer of flavor. chicken In a large bowl, whisk
out the saucepan.
8 cups of water with the sor-
¼ cup apple cider vinegar PICKLED PEACHES ghum syrup and 2 tablespoons 2. Peel and chop the peaches.
¼ cup distilled white 6 firm-ripe medium peaches of salt. Add the chicken, cover Transfer to a food processor
vinegar and refrigerate overnight. and puree until smooth. Scrape
1½ cups distilled white
vinegar into a large bowl and whisk in
3 Tbsp. sorghum syrup or 4. Drain the chicken and wipe
molasses the buttermilk, lemon zest and
1 cup sugar out the bowl. Return the chicken
lemon juice. Cover and refriger-
1½ tsp. kosher salt to the bowl and toss with ½ cup
1 stalk of lemongrass, ate until cold.
of the olive oil, the vinegar, gar-
2 jalapeños, seeded and tender inner bulb only,
thinly sliced
lic, chopped herbs and 1 tea- 3. In a heatproof medium bowl,
thinly sliced
spoon of pepper. Let stand at whisk the egg yolks. In the
1 small onion, thinly sliced One 1-inch piece of fresh room temperature for 1 hour. medium saucepan, simmer the
ginger, peeled and thinly
Canola oil, for brushing cream with the sugar, salt and
sliced 5. Light a grill and oil the grate.
the vanilla bean and seeds over
Six 4-oz. hot Italian Remove the peaches from the
½ tsp. whole black moderate heat, whisking occa-
sausages peppercorns brine and reserve the pickling
sionally, until the sugar has dis-
2 medium peaches, pitted liquid. Grill the peaches over
5 allspice berries solved, about 5 minutes. While
and sliced 1/4 inch thick moderate heat, turning once,
2 whole cloves
whisking constantly, slowly
until lightly charred, 4 to 5 min-
1. In a 1-quart jar, shake both stream half of the hot cream
One 3-inch cinnamon utes. Transfer to a work surface.
vinegars with the sorghum mixture into the egg yolks. Pour
stick Grill the chicken thighs over
syrup, salt and ½ cup of water the mixture back into the
moderate heat, turning, until
until the salt dissolves. Add the CHICKEN saucepan and cook over mod-
lightly charred and cooked
jalapeños and onion, cover and 1 Tbsp. sorghum syrup or erately low heat, whisking con-
through, 20 to 25 minutes.
let stand at room temperature molasses stantly, until the custard is
Transfer to the work surface
for at least 1 hour. thick enough to coat the back
Kosher salt and pepper and let rest for 5 minutes.
of a spoon, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Light a grill and oil the grate. 8 skin-on, bone-in chicken 6. In a bowl, toss the arugula Strain the custard through a
Grill the sausages over moder- thighs (about 2 lbs.) with 1 tablespoon of the peach fine sieve set over a heatproof
ate heat, turning, until lightly pickling liquid and the remaining bowl and let cool to room tem-
½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-
charred and cooked through, virgin olive oil, plus more 1 tablespoon of olive oil; season perature. Whisk in the chilled
10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a for brushing with salt and pepper. Arrange buttermilk-peach mixture.
cutting board and let rest for the salad, chicken and grilled Press a sheet of plastic wrap
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
5 minutes, then thinly slice on peaches on a platter and serve. directly onto the surface of the
the bias. 2 garlic cloves, finely
chopped WINE Fruit-rich Gamay: 2014 custard and refrigerate until
3. Arrange the sliced peaches Jean-Marc Burgaud Château de very cold, at least 3 hours.
on a platter. Top with the sau- ¼ cup each chopped
Thulon Beaujolais Villages. 4. Working in 2 batches, freeze
parsley, basil and
sages and some of the pickled the ice cream base in an ice
tarragon
jalapeños and onion. Drizzle Peach-Buttermilk cream machine according to
with some of the pickling liquid 4 cups arugula, thick stems
discarded Ice Cream the manufacturer’s instruc-
and serve the remaining pickles tions. Pack the ice cream into
Active 40 min; Total 1 hr 30 min
on the side. 1. Pickle the peaches Bring a plastic containers and freeze
plus 7 hr chilling and freezing
MAKE AHEAD The drained pick- large saucepan of water to Makes 1½ quarts until firm, at least 4 hours or
les can be refrigerated for up to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice overnight. Serve the ice cream
1½ lbs. peaches (about
1 week. water. Using a sharp paring topped with sliced peaches.
6 small), plus sliced
knife, mark an X on the bottom peaches for serving —Lisa Donovan
WINE Fresh Provençal rosé:
of each peach. Add the peaches
2015 Bieler Père et Fils Sabine. 1 cup farm-fresh buttermilk MAKE AHEAD The ice cream
to the saucepan and blanch
can be frozen for up to 2 weeks.
until the skins start to peel away, 1 tsp. grated lemon zest plus
1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice continued on p. 110
peaches to the ice bath and let 6 large egg yolks
cool completely. Peel, halve
2 cups heavy cream
and pit the peaches and trans-
fer to a large heatproof bowl. 1 cup sugar
Wipe out the saucepan. 1/8 tsp. kosher salt
1 vanilla bean, split
lengthwise, seeds scraped
This amazing
peach ice cream
from pastry chef
Lisa Donovan gets
its refreshing tang
from buttermilk.
from p. 86
tomato cups with salt and drain upside 1 cup dry white wine
ULTIMATE down on a paper towel–lined plate. 1/2 cup (3 oz.) pitted green olives,
PROVENCE 3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 table- such as Cerignola
spoons of the olive oil. Add the onion 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter
and cook over moderate heat, stirring
Baby arugula and fleur de sel,
occasionally, until softened, about for serving
Wish you were here:
Château Léoube’s
5 minutes. Add the rosé and cook until
almost completely evaporated, 1. Preheat the oven to 450°. In a large
grand winery;
stuffed tomatoes
(p. 106), above; pool
This is the best time ever to satisfy your Provençal
about 5 minutes. Scrape the mixture into enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 1 table-
fantasy, whether your tastes run to farmhouses or
castles, beaches or hill towns, Niçoise salads with rosé or
crab with almond foam from one of the world’s top chefs.
by jane sigal photographs by martin morrell
a medium bowl and wipe out the skillet. spoon of the olive oil. Add the pancetta
79
0816_WELL_PROVENCE_lo 78-79 6/7/16 4:49 PM
food photographs by con poulos
Spinach-and-Ricotta-Stuffed 4. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in the and cook over moderate heat, stirring occa-
Tomatoes with Piquillo Peppers skillet. Add the spinach and cook over mod- sionally, until golden, about 5 minutes.
erately high heat, stirring, just until wilted; Using a slotted spoon, transfer the panc-
page 78
transfer to the bowl. Add the ricotta, piquil- etta to a paper towel–lined plate.
Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 50 min; Serves 4
los, Parmigiano-Reggiano, basil, parsley, 2. Rub the chicken with the remaining
At the exemplary winery Commanderie garlic, thyme, rosemary, olives and piment 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with
de Peyrassol, chef Guillaume Delauné d’Espelette. Season with salt and pepper. salt and pepper. Add half of the chicken
makes dishes like these excellent stuffed
5. Set the tomatoes in the gratin dish in to the casserole, skin side down, along with
tomatoes. He uses a melon baller to
their juices and stuff with the ricotta filling. half each of the garlic, thyme sprigs and
scoop out the insides of the tomatoes, leav-
Bake until the tomatoes are softened, rosemary. Cook over moderately high heat,
ing a sturdy shell to hold the spinach-and-
about 20 minutes. Set the tops on the toma- turning, until golden brown all over, about
cheese filling. The accompanying sauce is
toes and bake for 10 minutes longer. 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a large
made from the scooped-out tomato seeds
plate. Repeat with the remaining chicken,
and juices. 6. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic, thyme and rosemary. Return all of
2 slices of sourdough bread, stuffed tomatoes to a plate; cover to keep the chicken and aromatics to the casserole.
cut into ¼-inch cubes warm. Transfer the cooking juices to a
blender and add the remaining ¼ cup oil; 3. Roast the chicken until the breasts are
9 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, just cooked through, about 15 minutes.
puree until smooth. Strain the sauce
plus more for drizzling Transfer the breasts to a platter. Roast the
into a small saucepan and season with salt
4 firm-ripe medium tomatoes, top and pepper. Simmer over moderately chicken legs for 10 minutes longer, until
½ inch cut off and reserved low heat, stirring occasionally, until slightly cooked through. Add the chicken legs and
thickened, about 10 minutes. garlic to the platter; discard the herb sprigs
and garlic skins.
½ medium onion, halved and 7. Spoon the sauce into shallow bowls and
thinly sliced set a stuffed tomato in each one. Garnish 4. Pour off all of the fat from the casserole.
with the croutons and arugula, drizzle with Add the white wine, olives and pancetta
½ cup rosé
olive oil and serve. and cook over moderately high heat, scrap-
8 oz. baby spinach ing up the browned bits on the bottom,
MAKE AHEAD The filling can be refrigerated until the wine is reduced by half, 2 to 3 min-
4 oz. fresh ricotta cheese
for 2 days. utes. Whisk in the butter and season with
3 piquillo peppers, drained and diced
WINE Herb-inflected Provence white: 2014 salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the
1½ oz. freshly grated Parmigiano- Domaine Le Galantin Bandol Blanc. chicken and top with arugula, chopped
Reggiano cheese thyme and fleur de sel.
¼ cup chopped basil Pan-Roasted Chicken with Green WINE Spice-driven Côtes-du-Rhône: 2014
¼ cup chopped parsley Olives and Garlic Château de Saint Cosme Les Deux Albion.
1 garlic clove, minced Active 40 min; Total 1 hr 10 min; Serves 4
¼ tsp. minced thyme This terrific chicken, adapted from a

recipe in Jane Sigal’s book Backroad Bistros,
¼ tsp. minced rosemary
Farmhouse Fare, is based on the rabbit
7 pitted kalamata olives, sauté served at Les Arcades in Biot. Chef-
quartered lengthwise owner Mimi Brothier has made the dish a
Pinch of piment d’Espelette part of her rustic Provençal menu for years.
Baby arugula, for garnish 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 350°. On a rimmed 4 oz. thinly sliced pancetta, cut into
baking sheet, toss the bread cubes with ½-inch-wide strips
2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Bake until One 3½- to 4-lb. chicken, cut into
golden and crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Let 8 pieces
cool. Leave the oven on. Kosher salt and pepper
2. Using a medium melon baller, scoop 12 unpeeled garlic cloves, crushed
the inside of the tomatoes into a small gra-
6 thyme sprigs, plus chopped thyme
tin dish, leaving a 1/4-inch wall on the
for garnish
sides. Lightly sprinkle the inside of the
3 rosemary sprigs
p r o m ot i o n
≤ Newport Mansions
Wine & Food Festival
fresh
Come join us September 22–25 at
one of the most treasured food and
wine events in the country: the
Newport Mansions Wine & Food
finds
Festival. This unique celebration of
award-winning wines and world-class
food is set against the backdrop of
spectacular ocean views and the
historic coastal summer playground
of America’s prestigious families.
newportmansions.org
NEWS, UPDATES, EVENTS AND MORE
FROM FOOD & WINE’S PUBLISHER
Music City Food + Wine Festival ≥

Music City Food + Wine Festival is September 17-18!
Join the best chefs from across the country as they spice
up the weekend in Nashville. Get tickets now for a weekend
of bites and beverages that your taste buds won’t forget!
musiccityfoodandwinefestival.com
≤ Dress to Impress With Marie’s.

Made with real, premium ingredients,
the fresh new flavors of Marie’s
dressings inspire delicious culinary
creations every day. Even Marie’s
packaging is dressed to impress
with a fresh new look for all 40
flavors. Swing by the refrigerated
LA’s Ultimate Food & Wine Festival produce section to explore. To find a
The Sixth Annual Los Angeles Food & Wine store near you, visit maries.com.
Festival, presented with founding partners
FOOD & WINE and Lexus, is set to feature
three nights and four days of unrivaled
© 2016 TIME INC. AFFLUENT MEDIA GROUP.
tastings, dinners, lunches, seminars, book

signings, cooking demonstrations and
special events, showcasing the finest in
food and drink culture. lafw.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Visit us online at foodandwine.com/promo

for exciting sweepstakes, promotions and events.
Follow us @foodandwine.
from p. 95
½ tsp. pepper Scallop Carpaccio with Hand-Cut

4 oz. shishito peppers, halved Ginger-Chive Pesto
lengthwise page 88
Two 7-oz. cans or jars good-quality Total 25 min; Serves 4
SCALLOP
CARPACCIO
Knife tip: Thinly
sliced scallops are IF YOU CAN’T
STAND THE HEAT
tender enough to eat
raw. They’re topped
tuna in olive oil, drained

here with radishes and
hand-cut ginger-chive
pesto (p. TK).
TURN OFF
THAT
and broken into large chunks 2 Tbsp. minced peeled fresh ginger
STOVE.
Put away the charcoal.
All you need for
¼ cup finely chopped chives

summer’s freshest
recipes is a visit to
One 15-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed

the farm stand and a
REALLY
SHARP
KNIFE.
and drained ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Recipes by JUSTIN CHAPPLE and KAY CHUN
Photographs by CON POULOS
1 cup thinly sliced celery hearts,

Plate by Christiane
Introduction by FRANCIS LAM
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, plus lime

Perrochon from
Tableart. Opposite:
Knife from Horne.
0816_WELL_NO_COOK_lo_text 88-89 6/13/16 10:23 AM
plus ¼ cup celery leaves wedges for serving

Green-Market Tacos with ½ cup chopped Castelvetrano olives Kosher salt and pepper
Corn Crema
Lemon wedges and crusty bread, 8 oz. sea scallops, thinly sliced
page 93
for serving crosswise
Total 45 min; Serves 4
In a large bowl, mix the olive oil, garlic, tarra- Flaky sea salt and thinly sliced
3 ears of corn, shucked radishes, for garnish
gon, coriander, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt
1 lb. mixed haricots verts, and pepper. Add all of the remaining ingredi- 1. In a small bowl, combine the ginger,
green beans and yellow wax ents except the lemon wedges and bread
beans, halved lengthwise chives, olive oil and lime juice; season with
and toss to coat. Cover and let stand for at kosher salt and pepper and mix well.
1 cup Greek yogurt least 3 hours or overnight. Serve with
lemon wedges and crusty bread. —KC 2. Arrange the scallops on a platter and top
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
with the ginger-chive pesto. Season with
2 oz. creamy feta cheese MAKE AHEAD The marinated tuna can be
flaky sea salt and garnish with sliced rad-
refrigerated for 1 week. ishes. Serve with lime wedges. —KC
3 Tbsp. finely chopped cilantro
WINE Minerally Greek white: 2015 Artemis
½ tsp. ground cumin WINE Aromatic dry Riesling: 2014 Hermann
Karamolegos Feredini Assyrtiko. J. Wiemer Finger Lakes.
Eight 6-inch flour tortillas Rye Crisps with Tomatoes Cherry Pico de Gallo
Avocado wedges, sliced radishes and and Sardines Total 25 min; Makes 2½ cups
cilantro sprigs, for garnish page 96
Total 15 min; Serves 4 ¾ lb. sweet cherries, pitted and
1. Working in a large bowl, cut the corn ker- coarsely chopped
nels off of the cobs. Add the beans and toss. ½ cup mayonnaise 1 pint mixed cherry tomatoes,
2. Using the back of a knife, scrape all of 1 Tbsp. finely chopped capers finely chopped
the corn milk from the cobs into a medium 2 tsp. minced hot red chile ½ cup finely chopped white onion
bowl. Add the yogurt, olive oil, cheese,
¼ cup finely chopped parsley 1 jalapeño—stemmed, seeded
chopped cilantro and cumin, season with and minced
salt and pepper and mix the corn crema ¼ cup finely chopped chives
until smooth. Add all but ½ cup of the corn 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
crema to the corn and beans, season 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 pint golden cherry or grape
with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Kosher salt and pepper
tomatoes, thinly sliced
3. Spoon the corn and beans onto the torti- 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ¾ cup finely chopped cilantro
llas and top with avocado, radishes and
8 light rye crisps, such as Wasa Tortilla chips, for serving
cilantro sprigs. Fold in half and serve with
Crispbread
the remaining corn crema. —Kay Chun In a medium bowl, mix the cherries with the
Two 4½-oz. cans sardines in tomatoes, onion, jalapeño, lime juice and
WINE Medium-bodied Chardonnay: 2014
olive oil—drained, deboned and
Porter-Bass Poco a Poco Mendocino. olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Stir
broken into chunks (see Note)
in the cilantro and serve right away with
Marinated Tuna with Chickpeas 1. In a small bowl, mix the mayonnaise with tortilla chips. —JC
and Shishitos the capers, chile and 2 tablespoons each continued on p. 110
of the parsley and chives. Season the herb
Active 30 min; Total 3 hr 30 min
Serves 4 mayonnaise with salt and pepper.
2. In another bowl, toss the tomatoes with
2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
the olive oil and the remaining 2 table-
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced spoons each of parsley and chives. Season
½ cup tarragon leaves with salt and pepper.
2 tsp. crushed coriander seeds 3. Spread the herb mayonnaise on the rye
crisps and top with the tomatoes and
Three 3-inch strips of lemon zest
sardines. Serve right away. —Justin Chapple
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
NOTE If available, smoked sardines are
2 tsp. kosher salt delicious here, too.
www.foodandwine.com/shopnow
TO ADVERTISE CALL JENNY AT MI INTEGRATED MEDIA 860-542-5180 Shopping A LA CARTE
Comfort so
beautiful...
You’ll forget
if you love it
for how it
Compelling accents for the modern
cocktail. Each Cocktailpunk flavor is
looks, or
a basic element that is focused and how it feels.
nuanced, simple yet devious. Perfect for
the classics, or make the cocktails that
haven't been invented yet! Choose single
bottles, 3-pack sets, or the Traveler Set
with six taster-sized bottles. All orders
include a recipe card to get you started,
and F&W readers enjoy free shipping over
$30 at cocktailpunk.com/bitters with Featuring GelPro Elite’s revolutionary
coupon code FWFREE. comfort technology, the Decorator Collection
offers hundreds of designer patterns and
small batch colors for every room of your house. Enjoy
the relief of standing on soothing gel and
cocktail bitters energy-return foam while never compromising
Handmade in Boulder, Colorado on style.
cocktailpunk.com | @cocktailpunk Order yours today! GelPro.com Made in the USA
8-Day Tour $1395

3 CIGARS
5
with Bryce & Zion Park.
only $
2-nights at Grand Canyon.
2-nights at Zion Lodge.
Call now for choice dates.
Guided Vacations Since 1952. tax,fees extra
Costa Rica Natural Paradise 9 days $1195
Nova Scotia and P.E.I. 10 days $1395
FREE 28-Page Brochure: 44.00
$
Call 1-800-Caravan | Visit Caravan.com value
T-shirt Quilts
2.25x2.25.Food.Wine.AUG.2016.GC.indd 1 5/27/16 4:59 PM
We make your T-shirts into a quilt.

As Seen On:
Today Show Enter full web address for offer
Real Simple CIGAR.com/CGSA685
Rachael Ray
ESPN Or call 800.357.9800
Mention CGSA685 • Offer expires 11/15/16
• 100% Quilted
• Outstanding Quality
• Made from your T-shirts
*Please add $2.99 s/h. Taxes on orders shipped outside of PA are the responsibility
• Great Prices! of the purchaser; PA residents add 6% tax. Available to new customers only.
One per customer. From time to time substitutions may occur. CIGAR.com does
800-880-8534 Campus Quilt Co. not sell products to anyone under the age of 21.
www.CampusQuilt.com 1911 Spillman Drive | Dept. #26 | Bethlehem, PA 18015

Call today for $10 off.
CAN’T STAND THE HEAT from p. 108 from p. 104
cover recipe 2. In a large serving bowl, toss the water-

Marinated Feta with Nectarine melon with the snap peas, mint and
pea shoots. Add the dressing and toss well.
and Tomato Fattoush PHOTOGR APHS BY
Eliesa Johnson
FOOD PHOTOGR APHS BY
Season with salt and toss again. Serve

John Kernick
page 94
right away. —JC
Active 30 min; Total 45 min; Serves 4 Superjuicy, indescribably
WINE Pear-scented Pinot Gris: 2015 Monti-

tender and more aromatic
than any green-market
peach you’ve ever tasted,
the fruit sold by The Peach
One 8-oz. block of feta cheese,

Truck has Nashville’s best
cooks swooning. Pastry chef
nore Estate Willamette Valley. Lisa Donovan takes a bite.
cut into ½-inch-thick slabs peaches:

3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar Marinated Eggplant and Tomato
a love story The Peach Truck’s
Stephen and Jessica
Rose sell 15 varieties,
including July
Prince, opposite.
98
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Salad with Buffalo Mozzarella 0816_WELL_PEACH_TRUCK_lo_mp3 98-99 6/13/16 10:13 AM
1 tsp. crushed coriander seeds Active 45 min; Total 4 hr 30 min The Giant Peach
Serves 4 to 6 page 103
1 lb. small or medium Italian eggplants, Active 15 min; Total 1 hr 15 min
2 nectarines—halved, pitted and cut Makes 6 drinks
peeled and sliced ½ inch thick,
into ½-inch wedges
slices scored on both sides at ¼-inch At Barista Parlor, a Nashville coffee bar,
2 medium heirloom tomatoes, intervals
owner Andy Mumma sweetens coffee soda
cored and cut into 1-inch pieces
Kosher salt and black pepper with a vibrant peach syrup.
1½ cups broken pita chips
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 medium peaches (about 2 lbs.),
¼ cup finely chopped dill, plus pitted and chopped,
2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
small sprigs for garnish plus peach slices for garnish
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1. Place the feta in a small rimmed dish in 2 cups pomegranate juice
3 garlic cloves, crushed
an even layer. In a small bowl, whisk the 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
vinegar with the olive oil, coriander seeds 3 basil sprigs, plus basil leaves
for garnish 1½ cups sparkling water
and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Pour
the marinade over the feta and let stand ¼ tsp. dried oregano 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. cold-brew coffee
at room temperature for 30 minutes, turn- 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. Jack Rudy Small
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper
ing the cheese over after 15 minutes. Batch Tonic Syrup (see Note)
2 lbs. heirloom tomatoes, coarsely
2. Transfer the feta to plates or a platter. In chopped A few dashes of Angostura bitters
a large bowl, toss the nectarines with the
8 oz. buffalo mozzarella, coarsely Ice
tomatoes, pita chips and the feta marinade.
torn or chopped
Add the chopped dill and season with 1. In a medium saucepan, bring the chopped
salt and pepper; toss again. Spoon the salad 1. In a colander set over a large bowl, toss peaches, pomegranate juice, lemon
over the feta and garnish with dill sprigs. the eggplant slices with 1½ teaspoons juice and 4 cups of water to a boil. Cook
Serve right away. —JC of salt. Let stand at room temperature for over moderate heat, stirring occasionally,
MAKE AHEAD The marinated feta can be 1 hour, tossing occasionally. until thickened and reduced to 2 cups, 45 to
refrigerated overnight. Let stand at room 50 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve
2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk the
temperature for 30 minutes before serving. set over a medium bowl, pressing on the
olive oil with the vinegar, lemon juice,
solids; discard the solids. Let the peach
garlic, basil sprigs, oregano and crushed
syrup cool completely, then refrigerate.
Watermelon and Snap Pea red pepper; season lightly with salt and
Salad with Mint black pepper. 2. In a pitcher, mix the peach syrup with the
Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6 sparkling water, coffee, tonic syrup and
3. Squeeze all of the water from the egg-
bitters. Pour the coffee soda into ice-filled
plants and pat dry. Chop into bite-size
3 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar glasses and garnish with peach slices.
pieces. Add to the marinade and let stand
2 Tbsp. minced shallot for 3 hours, stirring occasionally. NOTE The tonic syrup is available from
2 Tbsp. canola oil jackrudycocktailco.com. Alternatively,
4. Add the tomatoes to the eggplant
use 3 cups of tonic water and omit the
2 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds mixture and toss to coat; discard the basil
sparkling water.
1½ Tbsp. Asian fish sauce sprigs and garlic. Transfer to a serving
continued on p. 112
platter and top with the mozzarella and
One 2¾-lb. piece of seedless basil leaves. —KC
watermelon, peeled and cut into
¾-inch pieces (1 1/2 lbs. of chunks) MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared
through Step 3 and refrigerated overnight.
½ lb. sugar snap peas, strings removed
and peas thinly sliced on a bias Bring to room temperature before
proceeding.
2 cups mint leaves, coarsely chopped
WINE Bright and herby Grüner Veltliner:
1 cup torn pea shoots (1 oz.)
2014 Schloss Gobelsburg Gobelsburger.
Kosher salt
1. In a small bowl, whisk the rice vinegar and

shallot; let stand for 5 minutes. Whisk in
the canola oil, sesame seeds and fish sauce.
PEACHES: A LOVE STORY from p. 110
Peach Hand Pies and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. 1. Make the peach jam Bring a medium
Active 45 min; Total 4 hr 45 min Top with a layer of parchment paper. Gather saucepan of water to a boil. Fill a bowl with
Makes 16 the scraps and form into a ball; roll out again ice water. Using a sharp paring knife, mark
and stamp out 2 more rounds. Transfer to an X on the bottom of each peach. Add the
Lisa Donovan put these adorable hand pies
the baking sheet. Repeat with the second peaches to the saucepan and blanch until
on the menu while she was at Husk Nash-
piece of dough. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. the skins start to peel away, 1 to 2 minutes.
ville. They were inspired by her Aunt Ruby’s
Transfer to the ice bath and let cool
signature recipe, an apple hand pie. 5. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment
completely. Peel, pit and thinly slice the
paper. Working with 1 dough round at a time,
FILLING peaches. Wipe out the saucepan.
brush the rim with the beaten egg. Spoon
3 small peaches (about 12 oz.) 2 teaspoons of the filling into the center and 2. Add the sugar, lemon juice, butter,
fold the round in half to enclose. Press the ginger and 1/3 cup of water to the saucepan
¼ cup granulated sugar
edge firmly to seal and transfer to a prepared and simmer over moderate heat, stirring
¼ cup light brown sugar baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved,
¼ tsp. kosher salt dough and filling, arranging the hand pies about 5 minutes. Stir in the pectin and
2 inches apart on the sheets. Brush the tops peaches and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
with the remaining beaten egg and sprinkle occasionally, until the peaches begin to
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest with turbinado sugar. Using a paring knife, soften, about 2 minutes. Transfer the jam to
plus 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
cut 2 small slits in each hand pie. Bake until a heatproof jar and let cool completely
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise puffed and golden brown, shifting the pans at room temperature. Cover and refrigerate.
and seeds scraped, pod from top to bottom and back to front halfway 3. Make the biscuits Preheat the oven
reserved for another use through baking, 18 minutes. Transfer the to 350° and line a baking sheet with parch-
DOUGH hand pies to a rack and let cool slightly. ment paper. In a large bowl, whisk the
2½ cups all-purpose flour MAKE AHEAD The unbaked hand pies can 2½ cups of flour with the sugar, baking pow-
be frozen for up to 1 month. Brush with der and salt. Scatter the cubed butter
1 tsp. kosher salt
the egg wash, sprinkle with sugar and bake and lard over the dry ingredients and pinch
2 sticks cold unsalted butter, cubed the fat into the flour with your fingers
from frozen according to the recipe.
½ cup ice water until the mixture resembles very coarse
crumbs, with some pieces the size of
1 large egg, lightly beaten Biscuit Breakfast Sandwiches
small peas. Stir in the buttermilk until a
Turbinado sugar, for sprinkling with Peach-Ginger Jam
shaggy dough forms.
page 103
1. Make the peach filling Bring a medium 4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured
Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 40 min plus overnight
saucepan of water to a boil. Fill a bowl with work surface and knead gently until it
cooling; Serves 4
ice water. Using a sharp paring knife, mark just comes together. Pat into a 1-inch-thick
PEACH JAM round. Using a 3-inch biscuit cutter, stamp
an X on the bottom of each peach. Add the
peaches to the saucepan and blanch until 2 small peaches (about 8 oz.) out 3 biscuits. Gather the scraps and cut out
the skins start to peel away, 1 to 2 minutes. one more biscuit. Arrange the 4 biscuits
2 cups sugar
Transfer to the ice bath and let cool com- about 2 inches apart on the prepared baking
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice sheet and brush the tops with the beaten
pletely. Peel, halve and pit the peaches and
cut into ¼-inch pieces; you should ½ Tbsp. unsalted butter egg. Bake for about 40 minutes, until golden
have about 2 cups. Wipe out the saucepan. brown. Transfer to a rack and let cool.
½ tsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger
2. In the same saucepan, combine the 5. Make the sandwiches In a large
3 Tbsp. pectin
peaches with all the remaining ingredients nonstick skillet, melt ½ tablespoon of the
BISCUITS butter. Working in 2 batches, cook the
and bring to a boil. Cook over moderate heat,
stirring occasionally, until thickened and syr- 2½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more country ham over moderately high heat,
upy, about 12 minutes. Scrape the filling into for dusting turning once, until golden and crisp
a small bowl; let cool to room temperature. 1 Tbsp. sugar around the edges, about 1 minute per batch.
Cover and refrigerate until cold, 2 hours. Transfer to a plate and wipe out the skillet.
1 tsp. baking powder
In a medium bowl, beat the eggs and sea-
3. Meanwhile, make the dough In a large ¼ tsp. kosher salt son with salt and pepper. Melt the
bowl, whisk the flour with the salt. Scatter remaining ½ tablespoon of butter in the
the butter over the flour and, using your fin- 5 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cubed
skillet. Add the eggs and cook over low
gers, pinch it in until the mixture resembles 5 Tbsp. cold lard (2 1/2 oz.), cubed
heat, stirring occasionally, until almost set,
very coarse crumbs, with some pieces the 1 cup buttermilk about 4 minutes. Sprinkle with the cheese,
size of small peas. Stir in the ice water just then fold the omelet in half. Cook until set
until a dough forms. Turn out onto a lightly 1 large egg, lightly beaten
in the center, 1 to 2 minutes longer.
floured work surface and knead gently to SANDWICHES
Transfer the omelet to a work surface and
form a ball. Pat into a 1-inch-thick round, 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter cut into 4 equal pieces. Split the biscuits
wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour. and top each bottom half with a piece of
6 oz. thinly sliced country ham
4. Preheat the oven to 450° and line a bak- omelet and a few slices of ham. Drizzle with
4 large eggs
ing sheet with parchment paper. Cut the peach jam, close the sandwiches and
the dough in half. On a lightly floured work Kosher salt and pepper serve immediately. —Andy Mumma
surface, using a lightly floured rolling pin, 1 cup shredded aged cheddar
roll out 1 piece of dough 1/8 inch thick. Using cheese (3 oz.)
a 4-inch biscuit cutter, stamp out 6 rounds
a dve r t i s e m e n t
MOST WANTED from p. 114
Grilled Pizza with Peaches and

Aged Cheddar
Garlic Aioli BLTs
page 114 Stay
Connected
Active 40 min; Total 3 hr 40 min plus Total 30 min; Makes 4
overnight resting
8 slices of thick-cut bacon
Makes two 10-inch pizzas
¾ cup vegetable oil
1¾ cups all-purpose flour, plus more
for dusting ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup bread flour 1 garlic clove
1½ tsp. kosher salt Kosher salt and pepper SIGN UP FOR OUR FREE
1 large egg yolk
EMAIL NEWSLETTERS AT
1 cup lukewarm water (about
105°-110°) 2½ tsp. fresh lemon juice
foodandwine.com/newsletters
1 tsp. active dry yeast 1 sourdough boule, cut into eight
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, ½-inch-thick slices and toasted
plus more for brushing 3 heirloom tomatoes
2 medium peaches, thinly sliced (1½ lbs.), sliced ¼ inch thick
Secrets worth sharing
8 oz. aged white cheddar cheese, 4 cups arugula
with this insider’s guide to eating,
shredded (2 cups)
1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Set a rack over drinking and having a good time.
½ small red onion, thinly sliced a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Arrange
Parsley leaves and snipped chives, the bacon strips on the rack and bake until
for serving browned and crisp, about 25 minutes.
Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain.
1. In a medium bowl, whisk both of the
flours with the salt. In a large bowl, whisk 2. In a measuring cup, combine the vegeta-
the water with the yeast until the yeast ble oil with the olive oil. On a work surface,
dissolves. Whisk in 1 tablespoon of the olive top the garlic with a generous sprinkle of
oil. Add the flours and stir with a wooden salt and smash to a paste with the flat side
spoon until a dough forms. Turn out onto of a knife; scrape into a bowl. Whisk in the
a lightly floured work surface and knead egg yolk, 1½ teaspoons of the lemon juice
until smooth, about 10 minutes. Transfer and 1 teaspoon of water, then slowly whisk A guide to travel destinations,
the dough to a lightly oiled bowl and in the oil mixture so the aioli thickens. inspired getaways and incredible
press a sheet of plastic wrap directly on Season the aioli with salt, pepper and the restaurants around the globe.
the surface. Refrigerate overnight. remaining 1 teaspoon of lemon juice.
2. Line a baking sheet with parchment 3. Spread the aioli on each slice of toast.
paper. Cut the dough in half and form each Arrange the tomatoes and arugula on
piece into a ball; set them about 3 inches 4 of the toasts; sprinkle with salt and pepper.
apart on the prepared sheet and cover with Top with the bacon, close and serve.
plastic wrap. Let stand at room tempera- MAKE AHEAD The aioli can be tightly covered
ture until doubled in bulk, 3 hours. and refrigerated for 2 days. Serve chilled.
3. Light a grill. On a lightly floured work sur- WINE Fruit-forward Prosecco: NV Zardetto
face, using a lightly floured rolling pin, Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene Brut.
roll out each piece of dough into a 10-inch One sensational dish
round and brush the tops with 2 table- Customer Service and Subscrip- served fresh every day.
tions: For 24-hour service, please use
spoons of the olive oil. Oil the grate and grill our website: foodandwine.com/
the dough oiled side down over moderate customerservice. You can also call
800-333-6569 (813-979-6625 for international subscribers)
heat until lightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. or write to Food & Wine at P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662.
Brush the tops with the remaining 2 table- Food & Wine (ISSN-0741-9015). August 2016, Vol. 39, No. 8.
spoons of olive oil and flip. Arrange the Published monthly by Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, 225
Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. FOOD & WINE is a trademark
peaches, cheddar cheese and red onion on of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, registered in the U.S. and
top, cover and grill until the cheese is other countries. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and
additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Commercial Sales
melted and the pizzas are lightly charred Agreement No. 40036840 (GST# 129480364RT). U.S. and Receive the latest on food,
on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes more. Canada Subscribers: Subscriptions: 12 issues, $37;
Canada, $49. If the postal authorities alert us that your restaurants and trends.
Transfer to a work surface. Garnish with magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless
parsley and chives, slice and serve we receive a corrected address within two years. Your bank
may provide updates to the card information we have on file.
immediately. —Tandy Wilson You may opt out of this service at any time. Return undeliverable
Canadian addresses to: Food & Wine, PO Box 4226, Toronto,
WINE Rich, Rhône-inspired white: 2014 ON M5W 5N7. Postmaster: Send change of address to Food
Tablas Creek Vineyard Paso Robles Côtes & Wine, P.O. Box 62665, Tampa, FL 33662-6658. Food & Wine
does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings,
de Tablas Blanc. photographs or other works. All rights in letters sent to Food
& Wine will be treated as unconditionally assigned for
publication and copyright purposes and as subject to
unrestricted right to edit and to comment editorially. Contents
Weekly pairings, best
Copyright ©2016 Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. All rights bottles to buy and the latest
reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without news in the wine world.
written permission from the publisher. Member of the Alliance
for Audited Media.
AU G U S T 2016 113 © 2016 TIME INC. AFFLUENT MEDIA GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
RECIPE REQUEST
MOST
WANTED
» DID YOU
KNOW?
The facade of Gjelina
Take Away in L.A. is
plastered with black-and-
white street art by
Brooklyn-based Faile.
photograph: john kernick; food stylist: vivian lui;
Travis Lett’s “LET’S GRAB A BLT AT GTA.” That’s the buzz among Angelenos who have waited all year
prop stylist: brooke deonarine
long for a sandwich that Gjelina Take Away sells only when tomatoes are at their peak.
Killer Garlic BLT purists be warned: GTA chef Travis Lett has put his own spin on the classic. For his
Aioli BLT version (p. 113), he substitutes arugula for the lettuce and garlic aioli for the mayonnaise.
Lett is one of innumerable American chefs who have fallen for the Provençal spread.
He uses it in more than half a dozen things on his lunch menu; GTA cooks churn out some
five quarts a day. For a perfect L.A. afternoon, order one of those garlic aioli BLTs, then
do some window shopping along Abbot Kinney on your way to a dreamy picnic right
on Venice Beach. 1427 Abbot Kinney Blvd.; gjelinatakeaway.com. —ANNIE P. QUIGLEY
2nd-largest
auto insurer
97% customer
satisfaction
24/7 licensed
agents
Helping people
since 1936
The other guy.
The choice is yours, and it’s simple.

Why enjoy just one macaron when there’s a handful in front of you?

The same goes for car insurance. Why go with a company that offers just a low price when GEICO could
save you hundreds and give you so much more? You could enjoy satisfying professional service, 24/7, from
a company that’s made it their business to help people since 1936. This winning combination has helped
GEICO to become the 2nd-largest private passenger auto insurer in the nation.
Make the smart choice. Get your free quote from GEICO today.
geico.com | 1-800-947-AUTO | Local Office
Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states or all GEICO companies. Customer satisfaction based on an independent study conducted by Alan Newman Research, 2015.
GEICO is the second-largest private passenger auto insurer in the United States according to the 2014 A.M. Best market share report, published April 2015. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government
Employees Insurance Company, Washington, D.C. 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2016 GEICO
E x p e r i e n c e t h e de l i c i o us f e e l i ng
of cal l i ng you r own s hot s.
Get precisely what you want from every bite. Or sip. Wolf never asks you to settle for
less than the result you like. Our built-in coffee system, for example, enables you
to dial in every variable exactly as you prefer. Temperature, strength, even foam
level. It’s the ideal combination of convenience and control. wolfappliance.com Wolf Coffee System

Food & Wine

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Food & Wine

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

SUPERCHARGE YOUR SUMMER

SUPERCHARGE YOUR SUMMER

with Preserved Lemon Dressing

● fast ● vegetarian ● staff favorite

hum a n resources I’m hooked on

For reprint information, contact: PARS International Corp., 212-221-9595 or

printed in the u.s.a.

associate publisher Alex DeSanctis

bra nc h of f i ces reve n ue & i n n ovat i o n

Nilou Motamed, Editor

THE CAPTIVATING RC F SPORT

MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY

HAVE DINNER WITH US

TREND Make the

Soft Green-Herb Omelet pepper. In a large nonstick skil-

Finlay & Co. made

DRINK IN THE VIEW

Shellfish, LEFT, is the

FOLLOW AMBITIOUS FOOD OUTSIDE

While supplies last.

own roastery across town. Ideal pairing: THE CLAM SHACK,

Malz and Meghan McVey describe the

Always Enjoy Responsibly.

World Class Wines

September 22-25, 2016

www. NewportMansionsWineAndFood .org

red snapper with

5 Top Chef Tips

Red Snapper with Sweet Salmon Tartare on Garlic Bread

½ lb. seedless green grapes, thinly Twelve ½-inch-thick baguette

Point Lobos Avenue

MISSION CHINESE FOOD

What Chefs Know Best

Dan Kluger does

Jazz up your tomato salad.

Tomatoes with Herbs and 1. In a medium skillet, cook the

Bone-In Rib Eye Steaks 4. In a bowl, blend the butter,

2 garlic cloves, grated ¾ cup chopped cilantro

Welcome to the service and

Blue Cash Everyday Card from American Express

Terms and limitations apply. See americanexpress.com/cashback.

FOR A GOOD TIME

Mad Genius Tips:

Rosé Sangria with Vinho Verde Sangria

Distilled water Two 750-ml bottles Vinho

Coconut Mochi Ice 3. Working quickly, scrape the

FOR THE LOVE OF LEAVES

THE GASTRONAUT FILES

Pie-obsessed residents of Kansas City,

SUGAR COOKIE DOUGH PANDOWDY

3/4 cup all-purpose flour Unsalted butter, for

FAT CAT CREAMERY, HOUSTON

Portland, Oregon’s Salt & Straw

Ranked one of the top cancer

My Life in Ice Cream

SINGLE ORIGIN NEW YORK CENTRIC

Shared Family Calendar

In lieu of a 10-day sailing trip, how

quickly. A simple crisp rosé is one option.

water than industry average.

SUSTAINABILITY – It’s a Kendall-Jackson Family Value

Whether your tastes run to cozy cottages or

Jane Sigal is an F&W contributing editor and, most recently, the