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background. There is a dearth of published data regarding hydroquinone 4% prior to undergoing a series of five salicylic
chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic groups. acid chemical peels. The concentrations of salicylic acid were
objective. The purpose of the present investigation was to as- 20% and 30%. The peels were performed at 2 week intervals.
sess the clinical efficacy and safety of a new superficial salicylic results. Moderate to significant improvement was observed in
acid peel in individuals of skin types V and VI. 88% of the patients. Minimal to mild side effects occurred in 16%.
methods. Twenty-five patients were included in this pilot inves- conclusion. The results of this study suggest that superficial sal-
tigation. Nine had acne vulgaris, 5 had post-inflammatory hyper- icylic acid peels are both safe and efficacious for treatment of acne
pigmentation, 6 had melasma, and 5 had rough, oily skin with vulgaris, oily skin, textural changes, melasma, and post-inflamma-
enlarged pores. The patients were pre-treated for 2 weeks with tory hyperpigmentation in patients with skin types V and VI.
SUPERFICIAL CHEMICAL peels are an invaluable ac- mulated in a hydroethanolic vehicle at concentrations
coutrement for dermatologists when treating fine wrin- of 20% and 30% for use as a superficial peeling agent.8
kles, photoaging, keratoses, acne, and dyspigmentation. It is a lipophilic agent which produces desquamation of
The historical paradigm for such peels has been indi- the upper, lipophilic layers of the stratum corneum. Sal-
viduals with skin types I, II and III. 1 Superficial peels icylic acid is a hydroxyl derivative of benzoic acid and
are usually well tolerated by the lighter complexioned represents a carboxylic acid attached to an aromatic al-
individual. In contrast, dermatologists have been reluc- cohol, phenol. Although the efficacy of this product has
tant to perform chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic been described in Caucasians with acne and photoag-
groups because of the tendency of darker-skinned pa- ing,8,9 no studies have assessed its use in darker skin
tients to develop dyschromias in response to cutaneous types. The purpose of the present pilot investigation
injury.2 However, dyschromias are major issues of cos- was to evaluate the safety and efficacy of salicylic acid
metic concern, particularly in individuals with skin type peels in skin types V and VI.
VI (Fitzpatrick’s Classification).3 In a survey of 2,000
black patients seeking dermatologic care in a private
practice in Washington, D.C., the third most commonly- Patients and Methods
cited skin disorders were pigmentary problems other Patients
than vitiligo.4 Of these patients, the majority had a di-
agnosis of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation fol- Twenty-five patients were included in this study. Their
lowed in frequency by melasma. Such patients are usu- mean age was 34. There were 22 females and 3 males.
ally treated conservatively with topical bleaching agents Twenty were African-American and 5 were Hispanic.
or they are offered no treatment. In light of the afore- Nine patients had acne vulgaris, 5 had post-inflamma-
mentioned findings, clinicians are in dire need of addi- tory hyperpigmentation, 6 had melasma, and 5 had
tional innovative, efficacious therapeutic options. oily skin, enlarged pores, and rough textural changes.
There is a dearth of published data regarding the effi- Pregnant or nursing women and individuals with known
cacy and safety of chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic hypersensitivity to salicylic acid and/or hydroquinone
groups.5–7 The majority of published studies have as- were excluded from the study. Informed consent was
sessed the efficacy of glycolic acid peels in individuals obtained from each patient prior to participation in
with skin type IV. Salicylic acid has recently been for- this study.
Methods
Address correspondence and reprint requests to: Pearl E. Grimes, MD, Chemical Peel Protocol. Patients were pre-treated for 2 weeks
321 North Larchmont Blvd., Suite 617, Los Angeles, CA 90004. with 4% hydroquinone. Salicylic acid peels (Beta LiftX, Medi-
© 1999 by the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, Inc. • Published by Blackwell Science, Inc.
ISSN: 1076-0521/99/ • Dermatol Surg 1999;25:18–22
Dermatol Surg 25:1:January 1999 grimes: salicylic acid peels in darker skin 19
Table 1. Therapeutic Responses in Patients Treated with Beta-lift (Salicylic Acid) Chemical Peels (Fitzpatrick’s Skin Types V–VI)
Clinical Improvement %
cis Pharmaceuticals, Phoenix, AZ) were performed at 2 moisturizers. Each subject resumed use of 4% hydroquinone
week intervals and each patient completed a series of 5 such 2 days after each peel. Photographs were taken of each pa-
peels. After thorough cleaning with a pre-cleanser contain- tient at baseline and biweekly using a Yashica Dental Eye
ing water, SD alcohol, and witch hazel, salicylic acid was Camera and Ektachrome 100 film. Clinical response was
applied to the entire face with a wedge sponge for three to graded by an independent investigator who evaluated serial
five minutes. The face was rinsed with tap water followed photographs. The rating score was as follows:
by an application of triethanolamine neutralizer and repeat
rinsing. Two 20% then three 30% salicylic acid peels were 0: no improvement
performed sequentially with a 2 week interval between each 1 to 25% clearing: minimal improvement
peel. Immediate post-peel care included bland soaps and 26 to 50% clearing: mild improvement
Figure 1. A. Pre-peel: Twenty-eight year old female with acne vulgaris. B. Improvement in acne and skin texture after 2 20% salicylic acid
peels.
20 grimes: salicylic acid peels in darker skin Dermatol Surg 25:1:January 1999
51 to 75% clearing: moderate improvement in 5/5 (100%) of patients with oily skin, enlarged pores,
Greater than 75% clearing: significant improvement and rough textural changes. There was significant dimi-
nution in excess oiliness accompanied by improvement
in skin texture. Clinically, enlarged poral orifices ap-
Results peared to shrink in size (Figure 4).
The series of salicylic acid peels in combination with
Clinical Responses 4% hydroquinone expedited and facilitated the reso-
Improvement occurred in all patients included in this lution of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and
pilot investigation (Table 1). Moderate to significant melasma. Moderate to significant improvement occurred
improvement was observed in 22/25 (88%). Mild clear- in 5/5 (100%) of patients with post-inflammatory hyper-
ing occurred in 3/25 (12%). Varying levels of clinical pigmentation and 4/6 (66%) of patients with melasma.
improvement were observed in all patients after the sec- Salicylic acid peels and twice daily application of 4%
ond 20% peel. hydroquinone produced substantial decreases in the in-
Moderate to significant clearing of acne vulgaris oc- tensity of hyperpigmentation and lesional area for both
curred in 8/9 (89%). The series of salicylic acid peels fa- post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma
cilitated the clearing of pustules, papules, and come- (Figure 3). There was also a decrease in overall facial
dones. This was evidenced clinically by an overall rapid pigmentation which was cosmetically acceptable for
reduction in lesions including microcomedones in acne the patient. In addition, the patients with post-inflam-
patients and those with rough oily skin and enlarged matory hyperpigmentation and melasma had improve-
pores. Acne lesions appeared to clear faster than experi- ment in skin texture (Figures 3A, 3B, 4A, 4B).
ence indicates would ordinarily occur with traditional In general, the superficial salicylic acid peels were
therapy (Figures 1, 2). Significant improvement occurred well tolerated in this series of patients with skin types
Figure 2. A. Pre-peel: Eighteen-year-old female with acne vulgaris. B. Significant clearing of numerous comedonal lesions.
Dermatol Surg 25:1:January 1999 grimes: salicylic acid peels in darker skin 21
Figure 3. A. Pre-peel: Twenty-four year old female with oily skin and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. B. Significant clearing of hy-
perpigmentation and improvement in the appearance of oily skin.
V and VI. Side effects were absent in 21/25 (84%). Four had transient dryness and hyperpigmentation which
patients (16%) experienced mild side effects. One pa- resolved within 7 to 14 days. Residual hypopigmenta-
tient had temporary crusting and hypopigmentation tion or hyperpigmentation did not occur. Side effects
which completely cleared in seven days. Three patients did not correlate with the duration of peel.
Figure 4. A. Pre-peel: Forty-two year old female with melasma and surface roughness. B. After completion of the series of salicylic acid
peels, there is significant improvement in severe hyperpigmentation and surface roughness.
22 grimes: salicylic acid peels in darker skin Dermatol Surg 25:1:January 1999
Commentary
This paper expands our knowledge of using chemical peels in fects is benefited by post-peel hydroquinone treatment. This study
dark-complexioned individuals. Many practitioners are wary of by a practitioner with significant experience in treating pigmentary
performing peels on this group because of the risk of hyperpigmen- problems in darkly complexioned patents should encourage others
tation. This clinical study demonstrates that serial salicylic acid to begin offering chemical peels to this group of patients.
peels are beneficial for acne, post-inflammatory hyperpigmenta-
tion, melasma, oily skin, enlarged pores, and surface roughness. Douglas Kligman, MD, PhD
The small percentage of patients with transient pigmentary side ef- Conshohocken, Pennsylvania