ELDAR Version 1.

WAVE SERPENT GRAV TRANSPORT

ELDAR WAVE SERPENT TRANSPORT
A CONVERSION KIT USING
A GAMES WORKSHOP FALCON GRAV TANK
by Roy Bann

The Wave Serpent Prototype

My original sketch
for the Wave Serpent
model

TOOLS AND MA
OOLS TERIAL
MATERIALS
TERIALS

Required Materials
Games Workshop Eldar Falcon Grav Tank X 1
Games Workshop shuriken cannon piece from Eldar Shrieker Jetbike X 2
.040” (1mm) thick 6”x12” polystyrene sheet X 1
.020” (0.5mm) 6”x12” thick polystyrene sheet X 1
.10” (2.5mm) diameter polystyrene solid rod or solid half round X 1

Optional Materials
¾” diameter (approximate) extra strength magnets X 4
½” (approximate) diameter extra strength magnets X 2
¾” diameter steel washer or small sheet of thin steel X 1
brass rods (for reinforcing joints)

Suggested Tools
modeling knife (suggest using #16 blades to cut polystyrene)
plastic cement
super glue
epoxy glue
sand paper and/or files
cutting board
jewelers saw w/ fine-tooth blade
modeling putty (Kneadatite, Milliput, or type that you are use to)
pin vise and drill bits
electric drill and drill bits

© All rights reserved. No challenge is made to copyrights/trademarks owned by Games Workshop, Inc. and are used without permission.

1
 ELDAR

WAVE SERPENT GRAV TRANSPORT

GENERAL NOTES
NOTES

1. This is a medium difficulty conversion kit. Please read and understand all of the instructions
carefully before actually doing any of the work. Please note: this kit includes some optional
steps to add further detail, strength, and portability of the model that need not be followed if
you don’t want that particular option.

2. Use caution when cutting the templates or the polystyrene sheets. Always use a new sharp
blade in your holder and cut away from yourself. I suggest using a #16 blade instead of the
typical #11 blade as I find it easier to cut polystyrene with it and the smaller blade offers me
more control as well as resists tip breakage.

3. To use your templates, you may use either of the following methods. First you can cut out the
shapes from the included cardstock template. Using the template, trace the shapes onto the
polystyrene sheets and cut them out. Second, you may photocopy the templates onto a sheet
of paper and temporarily glue them directly to the polystyrene sheets. Use the copy as your
pencil line and cut the shapes out. For either method (except for a few instances, as noted in
the instructions), cut to the outside edge of the outline. This way, you have a little room for
variation in Falcon model castings and room for error correction.

4. Please be sure that you are in a well-ventilated area when you are gluing your model together.
Plastic cement can contain harmful fumes and may cause harm if used improperly. Use your
glue sparingly but be sure you are using enough to continuously bond the items together. Do
not over-glue areas as most plastic cement glues actually melt the plastic to weld them
together. Super glues can also be used to join the plastic parts, but although the joints will be
stronger, they will be brittle and can easily be snapped apart.

5. Before gluing any parts together or to your Falcon, dry-fit them to insure a good clean fit with
no gaps. Lightly sand as required. Also please note that there are 2 different thickness of
polystyrene plastic called for in this kit. Be aware of which thickness is specified in the
instructions before you start cutting.

6. In the instructions below, when referring to a part on the template, it will be IN ALL CAPS.
When referring to a part from the Falcon model kit, it will be IN CAPS AND ITALICS. For ease
of reference, I will use the same names for the Falcon parts as is shown on the Falcon’s Assembly
Instructions that came with the model whenever possible.

INSTRUCTIONS

PART 1 –WING EXTENSION ASSEMBLY

ART
This part describes the construction of the wing extensions that are the main distinguishing feature
between Wave Serpents and the Falcons. This is the most difficult part of the whole assembly, so take
your time during this step.

1. Cut out the WING EXTENSION from 1mm thick polystyrene.

2. OPTION – If you want to increase the amount of gluing surface for the WING EXTENSION, follow this
step. Cut out the BACK-UP BAR from .5mm thick polystyrene. Glue to the bottom outside edge of the

2
 MAIN HULL wing of the Falcon so that half the width of the bar is exposed. Align the back end of the
bar so it aligns with point A on figure 1.

3. Glue the WING EXTENSION to the wing of the MAIN HULL of the Falcon,
flushing its thickness to the bottom of the wing (and flat against the
WING EXTENSION BACK-UP BAR, if used). Carefully bend and glue
a section at a time as required to match the shape of the wing.
Align the back end of the WING EXTENSION to point A on
figure 1. Also make sure that the vertexes of the stepped
wing pattern roughly align with the panel lines on
the MAIN HULL.
D
4. Cut out the bottom WING PANEL from .5mm thick
polystyrene. Do not cut all the panels a
att once
once.. Adjust C
the WING PANEL as required to align the MAIN HULL
panel lines with the cut line. Glue. Repeat for all
F
WING PANEL pieces. Note: you may want to round FIGURE 1 E
B A
over the edges along the panel grooves as well as
the outside edge to create a more finished look to
the model.

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the other WING EXTENSION on the other side of the Falcon.

6. OPTION – Cut out 10 of the STABILIZER BASEs from .5mm thick polystyrene. Cut out 5 STABILIZER
RODs from the 2.5mm polystyrene rod, 2 at the shorter length, 3 at the longer length. Sand down
each of the rods to half its starting diameter. Alternatively, you can use a
STABILIZER BASE
half-round rod. Sand each rod end so that it is rounded. Either sand down or
cut in each end a rabbet along the flat edge of the rod, distance equal to ½ STABILIZER
ROD
the length of the STABILIZER BASE, so that the rod will sit flush with the
STABILIZER BASEs in place. Glue a STABILIZER BASE to each side of the
STABILIZER ROD in the rabbets (see figure 2). Glue on the completed
stabilizers to span across from the MAIN HULL wing panels to the WING
EXTENSION panels, centering them on the panels themselves. From figure FIGURE 2
1, glue the 2 shorter stabilizers at points B and C, and the 3 longer ones at points D, E and F.

PART 2 – SHURIKEN CATAPULT FRONT MOUNT

ART
This part details the bridge between the front wings of the Wave Serpent. Although not necessarily as
faithful to the Epic scale model, I feel that it is an acceptable substitution and makes the Wave Serpent
more in line with Eldar vehicle construction (in my own opinion, anyway).

1. Cut out the MOUNT BASE and the MOUNT BASE SIDE PANELS from 1mm thick polystyrene. Transfer the
tick marks in on the template and draw lines in pencil connecting them across the bottom of the MOUNT
BASE. These lines will serve as spacing guides for gluing on the
FRONT MOUNT FINS later in step 3.
FRONT MOUNT BASE
2. Glue the MOUNT BASE SIDE PANELS to the MOUNT BASE, one on each
side with the tapered end toward the front. Dry-fit and trim this piece to
fit between the LOWER HULL’s wings at point A on figure 4. Cut out the 3
pieces (2 medium pieces and 1 long piece) for the FRONT MOUNT BACK FRONT MOUNT
from .5mm thick polystyrene. Glue one of the medium pieces BACK (MED)
perpendicular to the MOUNT BASE, starting from the middle and along
the back edge, working out to the side. This piece is intentionally cut
longer than necessary for ease of installation. Once in place and the FRONT MOUNT
glue sufficiently dried, trim the piece flush with the MOUNT BASE SIDE. BACK (LONG)
Repeat in the opposite direction. Glue the long piece from end to end
over the medium pieces, carefully bending it so it is one continuous piece
FIGURE 3
across the surface. See figure 3 for recommended gluing pattern.

3
3. Cut out the FRONT MOUNT FINS blank from 1mm thick polystyrene. This piece is intentionally longer
than required as it is not a single piece; rather it will be cut to length as described as follows. On the
underside, measure the distance from the MOUNT BASE BACK to the front of the MOUNT BASE along
the pencil reference lines you made in step 1. Transfer this measurement to the FRONT MOUNT FINS
blank and the first fin cut to length. On the front edge of this piece, transfer the measurement from the
template marked FRONT, connect this point to the back top edge, and cut along this line to create a
trapezoidal piece. Glue the square edges to the top and back along the corresponding reference
line. Repeat for all reference lines.

4. Cut out the FRONT MOUNT PANEL from .5mm thick polystyrene. Cut each section out along the middle
of the templa te lines instead of on the outside edge to allow for minor corrections for the panel grooves.
template
Cut, fit and glue each piece down separately and maintain a consistent groove spacing with its adjacent
panels. Repeat for all panel pieces. Note: you may want to round over the edges along the panel
grooves as well as the outside edges to create a more finished look to the model.

5. Remove the TWIN SHURIKEN CATAPULTS and its SUPPORT from their B
sprue. Cut the mounting nub off the SUPPORT flush with its round
base. Assemble the TWIN SHURIKEN CATAPULTS to its SUPPORT.
Glue this piece on the bottom of the MOUNT BASE in the
opening left by the FRONT MOUNT FINS, facing forward.
This, unfortunately, does not allow it to swivel from side
to side, but I find that this is not as critical as a good
solid connection.

6. Glue the completed SHURIKEN CATAPULT FRONT

MOUNT between the LOWER HULL’s wings at point
A on figure 4. Align it so that it is 2mm below the top A
edge (to allow space for the MAIN HULL to be glued
in place) and flush to the back edge of flat surface
FIGURE 4
of the LOWER HULL’s wing.

PART 3 – TURRET ASSEMBLY MODIFICATIONS

ART
The fangs of a Wave Serpent, the turret is armed with twin-linked shuriken cannons. I have found out (to
the chagrin of my opponents) that Wave Serpents make an extremely good anti-vehicle weapon, especially
to side/rear armor! Heavy 3, strength 6 weapons that are twin-linked!

1. Assemble the TURRET ASSEMBLY without the TURRET WEAPON ASSEMBLY. Trim off the weapon
assembly supports on either side of the turret. Cut out the 2 TURRET PANELS from .5mm thick
polystyrene. Glue one over each of the holes left by the removal of the weapon assembly support. .
Note: you may want to round over the edges along the panel edge to create a more finished look to the
model.

2. OPTION – If you want your weapon turret to be removable, follow this step. Do not glue the TURRET
MOUNT to the bottom of the turret shaft. Cut a circle out of thin sheet steel the same size as the inside
diameter of the bottom of the TURRET BASE. Using an electric drill, drill a hole through the center of
the steel circle to allow the turret shaft to pass through it. Alternatively, you may also use a steel
washer. Cut thin strips of polystyrene with a width equal to the depth of the circular extension of the
TURRET BASE minus the thickness of the steel circle/washer. It is important to get this step correct
so that the steel circle/washer will sit flush with the bottom of the circular extension. Glue the strips
within the circular extension at right angles to the bottom of the base and create a triangle. Using
super glue, glue the steel circle/washer to the triangle, centering the hole on the turret shaft. This will
provide a surface for magnets to be attracted to, which are installed in PAR ARTT 5 – ASSEMBLING THE
WAVE SERPENT, step 3.

3. This step requires both of the shuriken cannons pieces (referred to as CANNON 1 and CANNON 2). Cut
CANNON 1 at points A, B and C as shown on figure 5a. Cut CANNON 2 at points D and E as shown on

4
 figure 5b. Each figure gives names to the cut parts that will be used to describe the assembly of the
twin-linked shuriken cannons. For this assembly, you should pin all your joints for strength. The
SENSOR POD is flipped over and glued at 90 degrees to the top of the LEFT CANNON as shown in
figure 5c. Rotate the FEED MECHANISM so the ammo feeds are on top, and glue to side of the LEFT
CANNON (refer to figure 5c). Rotate the RIGHT CANNON over so the front sites are point up and glue
to the FEED MECHANISM. The finished product should look like figure 5c and 5d, top and side views

LEFT CANNON D
C FEED MECHANISM

B
E
A RIGHT CANNON
SENSOR POD
FIGURE 4a - CANNON 1 FIGURE 4b - CANNON 2
TOP VIEW BOTTOM VIEW
SENSOR POD - LEFT CANNON SENSOR POD
LEFT & RIGHT
ON EDGE RIGHT CANNON CANNONS

FEED MECHANISM

FIGURE 4c - TOP VIEW FIGURE 4d - SIDE VIEW

respectively.

4. Cut out 2 CANNON SUPPORTs from 1mm thick polystyrene. Glue them together and then glue to the
underside of the FEED MECHANISM, just behind the RIGHT CANNON. Glue the twin-linked shuriken
cannons to the sloped surface to the left of the canopy on the TURRET CARAPACE at point B on figure
3. You may need to adjust the location and/or size of this piece so that the twin linked shuriken cannons
will sit level.

PART 4 – OPTIONAL EXTENDED CREW COMPARTMENT

ART
All that firepower and it can carry a full compliment of troops too! This part describes the assembly for
an extension of the crew compartment. If you do not want to extend it, you may skip this part and go onto
PAR
ART T 5 – ASSEMBLING THE WAVE SERPENT.

1. Cut out 2 COMPARTMENT EXTENSIONs and the EXTENSION BOTTOM from 1mm thick polystyrene.

2. Butt-joint and glue the COMPARTMENT EXTENSION to the REAR CREW COMPARTMENT, one on each
side. Between the extensions, glue the EXTENSION BOTTOM to each side and to the REAR CREW
COMPARTMENT . It is recommended that you glue the REAR HATCH to the REAR CREW
COMPARTMENT for rigidity, though this is not necessary. The COMPARTMENT TOP and the
COMPARTMENT PANELS need to be put on after the rest of the crew compartment is glued onto the
body of the Wave Serpent and will be covered in PART 5 – ASSEMBLING THE WAVE SERPENT, step 5.
ART

PART 5 – ASSEMBLING THE WAVE SERPENT

ART
And now down to the nitty-gritty of the assembling the model. The following steps direct you on the
altered assembly for the Wave Serpent as well as a few optional steps as well. Otherwise, follow the
assembly instructions of the Falcon.

1. Assemble the LOWER HULL and ENGINE. Do not g lue the SENSOR ARRAY to the bottom of the LOWER
glue
HULL. The SENSOR ARRAY is placed onto the sloped panel on the right side of the pilot’s cockpit on
the MAIN HULL (point A on figure 6). Trim or sand the base of the array so that sits level before you
glue it in place.

5
2. OPTION – If you want a removable base, follow this step. Cut out 2 STAND BASEs
and 2 STAND SIDEs from 1mm thick. Cut out the STAND FRONT and STAND
BACK from .5mm thick polystyrene. Glue the 2 STAND BASEs together.
Glue the front and back panels between the side panels to form the
BASE STAND. Glue the two ½” diameter magnets together and
glue it flush to the top of the BASE STAND. I recommend A
using epoxy glue to glue the magnets together as well
as the magnets to the BASE STAND. Center and glue
the BASE STAND to the BASE. The top of the BASE
STAND should fit between the ribs on the outside
bottom of the crew compartment on the LOWER
HULL. On the inside bottom of the LOWER HULL,
remove the protruding rib on the floor of the crew
compartment. Glue together 2 of the ¾” diameter
magnets and then glue them inside the crew FIGURE 6
compartment right up against the front wall. Again,
I suggest using epoxy glue. Remember
emember,, opposites
attract! Glue the correct side of the magnets down,
as if it is the wrong side down, your base will not stick to your Wave Serpent.

3. OPTION – If you opted to make your turret removable, follow this step. On the underside of the MAIN
HULL, glue 2 of the ¾” diameter magnets near the hole for the turret shaft, one on each side. I
recommend using epoxy glue, as you don’t want the magnets to come loose after you assembled your
Wave Serpent. You will need to remove the ‘roll cage bars’ on the top of the ENGINE as these will
interfere with the MAIN HULL and ENGINE being glued together with these magnets in place.

4. Glue the LOWER HULL ASSEMBLY to the MAIN HULL. Glue on the CREW COMPARTMENT.

5. OPTION – If you opted for the EXTENDED CREW COMPARTMENT, follow this step. Glue on the
EXTENDED CREW COMPARTMENT to the back of the LOWER HULL ASSEMBLY and to the top of the
MAIN HULL. Cut out the COMPARTMENT TOP from 1mm thick polystyrene. Glue on the COMPARTMENT
TOP to the top of the EXTENDED CREW COMPARTMENT and to the edge of the MAIN HULL. Cut out
the COMPARTMENT PANELS from .5mm thick polystyrene. Cut each section out along the middle of
the templa
template te lines instead of on the outside edge to allow for minor corrections for the panel grooves.
Cut, fit, trim and glue each piece down separately and maintain a consistent groove spacing with its
adjacent panels. Repeat for all panel pieces. Note: you may want to round over the edges along the
panel grooves as well as the outside edges to create a more finished look to the model. As there is a
thickness to the back edge of the MAIN HULL, you may want to sand it down or use modeling putty to
smooth over the gaps between it and the COMPARTMENT PANELS. Also, you may want to putty and/or
round over the edges of the COMPARTMENT PANELS, TOP, and EXTENSIONS, making it more in line
with the slickness of Eldar vehicles.

And that’s it! You are now a proud owner of new Wave Serpent. After a coat of paint you will be ready to
terrorize your opponents! Build a second or third one and really put the fear of the Eldar into them.

I thank you for your purchase of this kit and hoped you enjoyed building it. As this is my first attempt at a
kit, your comments, either good or bad, on the instructions, figures, template, model, or website are much
appreciated. In this way, I can assure better quality and a kit worthy of purchase by any gamer. If I use
your comment, I will send you a free copy of the updated version and note you down as a contributor to
the kit’s design. Please check my site often for Q&A’s, tips,tricks, and site updates. Also, if you’ve
completed your kit, send me a picutre of it! I’d like to start an web gallery of Wave Serpents built from the
kit. Email me for details. Thanks again!

Roy Bann
808-buma@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~roybann/

6
 by Roy Bann
WAVE SERPENT TEMPLATE Version 1.1
© All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use
only.

STAND FRONT STAND BACK

TOP

TURRET
PANELS

STABILIZER
BASE

STAND BASE STAND SIDE

LONG

SHORT
STABILIZER
RODS
FRONT MOUNT BACK
(LONG)
BACK-UP
BAR CANNON SUPPORT
FRONT FRONT MOUNT BACK (MED)
BOTTOM

ALIGN W/ MOUNT BASE FRONT MOUNT FINS BLANK

POINT A SIDE PANELS
FIGURE 1
WING WING
EXTENSION PANELS
REFERENCE
TOWARDS TOWARDS
MARKS - DO
FRONT FRONT
NOT CUT OUT

TOWARDS TOWARDS
BACK BACK

COMPARTMENT EXTENSION COMPARTMENT COMPARTMENT MOUNT BASE FRONT MOUNT

EXTENSION BOTTOM TOP PANELS PANELS