Carabiner setup

Down and out: carabiner gate pivots at the top of the gate, gate is away from rock, rope clipped through
carbineer in way that if the route is not straight, the direction the rope goes out of the biner is away
from the gate (pg 534)

Natural pro: use common sense choosing an anchor, rope runs through carbineer holding the runner
together.

 Setup on tree: a runner looped around base of trunk, clipped with a carabiner around the loops,
or untie runner and re-tie around trunk, lastly you can use a girth hitch
 Setup on rocks: Check for hollow sound
o Horns: loop around if flared at top, if not use clove hitch (practice clove hitch with a
runner) or slip knot to tighten loop to horn
o Rock tunnel/ chockstone: all same methods as setting up on a tree trunk

Removable protection: more metal surface area touching rock surface area = stronger placement

 Passive: usually placed in a constriction in a crack in the rock

o Advantages: no mechanical parts, lighter, not as likely to jam because of weather, tricam
has camming action but has no mechanical parts, hard to place but light and won’t
break because of weather and stuff
o Big bros: spring loaded, placed passively
 Active:

Placing removable protection: