AIR Modeller 77 2018-04-05

AIR 77 cover.
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77
APRIL/MAY 2018 • £6.50 UK $15.99
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APRIL / MAY 2018
I AM THE
MENG AIR MODELLER
MEGAS TSONOS BUILDS THE AIRFIX 1:48 KIT

AIR 77 April /May 2018.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 09/03/2018 10:01 Page 222
CONTENTS
2 Supermarine Walrus Part 1
Master modeller Megas Tsonos builds the new 1:48 Airfix kit.
12 Sea King
Jordi Lario details the 1:48 Hasegawa kit to model an SH-3H Sea King.
20 Bella Ballila part 3

The Editor continues his build of the Aviattic 1:32 Ansaldo A.1
26 Bf 110 G-4 Nachtjager

Eduards jewel-like 1:72 kit as modelled by Albert Tureczek.
38 Mirage IIIE
Franck Oudin builds the recent Italeri 1:32 Mirage
46 Air Borne
New releases.
54 Bf 109 G-6
Renzo Bortolotto tackles the new Eduard edition of the famous fighter in 1:48.
60 King Cobra part 2

Andrea Vignocchi’s stunning 1:72 super-detailed Super Cobra
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1
1:48
Supermarine
Walrus PA RT O N E
Remember our series on scratchbuilding the Sterling Bomber?
Megas Tsonos
is back, and you wouldn’t expect him to build Airfix’s
new Walrus straight out-of-the-box would you?
2
The long awaited decent kit of the Walrus in 1:48 has finally
arrived! Airfix has done a respectable job in reproducing its shape
and dimensions as correctly as possible. It is a well engineered kit
showing that the Airfix designers did a good job on the good fit of
its major components, a simple and straightforward instruction
leaflet, excellent decals, as well as exterior surface detail which
even includes the buckling of the metal hull, a gift for one wishing
to build a Walrus of the pre-war era. This kit also offers a gentle
introduction to the novice wishing to enter the world of biplanes,
whilst anyone accustomed to biplane intricacies, can do sterling
work on the well known Airfix soft plastic to achieve a prize-winning
model.
The Walrus was an aeroplane of many uses. Equipment was added
or removed, according to the theatre of operations, or as its role
was changing over the years. Even the landing gear was removed
to save weight and extend its endurance when operating above
ships. This led to a bewildering array of small modifications, repairs,
camouflage colouring and special markings, extreme weathering
and repainting always according to the situation at hand. Only close
study of contemporary photos can save the day. Museum exhibits
are there to provide the basics; this is a blessing considering their
75 years of age, but If a specific Walrus is to be made however, a
photo of it is necessary.
How far can one go with this kit is entirely a personal choice, there
is a lot of additions, small corrections and upgrading to be done,
some of which I found to be obligatory as will be seen in the pages
that follow. I used the Eduard upgrading sets, quite useful in a few
instances, it really depends on the money you wish to spend on
details soon to be lost inside the hull of the model.
3
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
Some preliminary work marked the start of handrails through the nylon thread loops as the kit is made of, these were easily
the build. I cemented the rear gun seen in pic 6, pulled and secured the eradicated with a curved blade pic 12.
mounting ring (kit part E07) whilst the hull nylon threads with stretched sprue set in A piece of plasticard in the shape of the
top was on the plastic tree, thus giving the tubes and glued with cyanoacrylate observers’ seatback was inserted in the
ample time for the glue to set before using glue. I cut the remaining nylon thread on relevant photo-etched part pic 13 to make
the hull top part. Then the upper wing the hull inner sides pic 7 and smoothed it stiff, while the seats were improved by
undersides were glued together as well as everything to the shape of the interior reshaping their cushions as seen in pic 14.
the engine nacelle three basic parts. framing. On the real aeroplane the handrail The hull sides and the planing bottom were
In pic 1 the nacelle rear struts are fittings were riveted on the hull frames. detailed with the etched details provided in
subjected to generous thinning, as their I drilled out the holes of the major frames the Eduard interior set; however it must be
trailing edges were overly thick. pic 8, and removed the camera mounting noted that the sets instructions must be
Then the nacelle lower rear fairing was cover on kit part D31 pic 9. very carefully read, understood and
thinned pic 2, and the nacelle was put The drilling operation continued with the compared with photos as some arrows are
aside for later. pilot’s control chassis. I decided to put the not pointing exactly on the spot where a
The kit lacks the handrails seen on the hull elevators at their lower stops so the control part is to be cemented; this was noted
sides of some Walruses, which assisted column had to lean forward but not touch after cross-checking with the aircraft
rescued men in climbing on the aircraft. the instrument panel. Thus I replaced the manual.
Curious, as one of the aircraft proposed in elevator torque tube of the control column The floor under the camera stowage
the Airfix kit decal sheet (Walrus P5658) with the sole purpose of having the latter mounting was removed so as to permit the
was actually equipped with them! The hull not glued but dropped forward; then lift it installation of the Eduard part. The skin
sides were marked in pencil, pointed with a to the correct angle checking against the beneath it became visible so it was
scriber pic 3, then drilled, as seen in instrument panel before its installation. reworked with plasticard and Evergreen
pic 4. Heat stretching a cotton bud shaft In pic 10, the dropped column can readily styrene strips. I also used Evergreen
produced small diameter tubes which were be seen, together with the first Eduard styrene strips to fabricate the planing
inserted in the holes drilled pic 5 but photo-etched details, namely the bottom stringers, missing from the kit and
staying proud of the exterior surface, to act reconnaissance camera mounting at the at points which could possibly be seen, for
as the handrail fittings. Brass rod was used front and the camera stowage mounting at example when looking into the cockpit
to simulate the handrails and through the the rear. directly from above.
tubes, I inserted nylon thread to tie the The hull interior was full of ejector pin
4 handrails onto the hull. I passed the brass marks pic 11 but thanks to the soft plastic
The interior was painted in the

well-known interior grey-green. I
used Humbrol 78 and I made
darker and lighter shades using
artists’ oil colours and dry pastels.
When I dry-fitted the hull sides to

the planing bottom, I noticed that
the vertical frames of the sides did
not meet their relevant frames of
the planing bottom, forming gaps
which were filled with Milliput and
repainted where required.
13 14 15 16
The gaps on the port side of the hull are not drum top side disks still attached on the photo-
visible so I left the parts as they were, being etched fret.Then I cut and placed the drum
inaccessible when assembled. bottom side disks on the styrene disks.
The operational configuration of an aeroplane Finally I removed the disks from the fret, looped
includes a lot of equipment necessary for its role the drum sides and cemented them pic 17,
and above all, safety. The Walrus was no thus ending the time-consuming and boring
exception, and items such as a dinghy and process. I put some of the finished drums in
paddles, fire extinguishers and first aid kit(s), had their stowage positions, not all of them since
to be scratchbuilt and installed in the model. there is no space for two drums between two
Above one can easily see some obligatory frames as can be seen in the bow, starboard
equipment such as the wireless operators’ seat side, unless one really wants to reconstruct the
headrest and map case, and some – probably – already existing frames. The control cables are
optional, such as the camera in its stowage also installed, and the column is now positioned
position, and (at the front) the second pilots’ at its correct angle, its distance from the
control column in its stowed position in the instrument panel being checked in the
starboard cockpit sidewall. meantime. I cemented the navigators’
17 I enhanced the ammunition drums rigidity by compartment window frames in open position
cutting small styrene disks, at the thickness of and installed acetate transparencies. 5
the drums pic 16 and cementing them on the
18 19 20
Using a flat file, I removed the paint from the port hull sidewall pic As my attention now is turned to the exterior I erased some
18 and proceeded in fixing it to the rest of the hull, while at the exterior detailing, namely a disk on the planing bottom port side,
same time I fixed the hull topside into place. Squeezing gently, all directly behind the step as I did not find any photographic
parts came together as the glue was melting the surfaces in evidence of its existence whatsoever. This detail is actually
contact, leaving almost no seams, and minimal need for putty, beneath the camera stowage mounting in the hull interior, behind
proof of the really good fit of the five hull parts. The instrument the wireless operators’ seat. As seen in the aircraft manual, there
panel was replaced by the Eduard one, with only a piece of was not an opening of some sort, but plain skin and stringers
acetate inserted between the Eduard parts, not obligatory but a construction. The surface detail was re-scribed and rivets were
personal choice. The instrument panel was mated to the Airfix one made pic 20. I masked the hull openings and sprayed an overall
which was cleared of it’s details and the assembly was fixed to the coat of Mr. Hobby Mr. Surfacer 1200 so that the hull was prepared
bow topside interior, along with the anchor rope winch pic 19. for painting and put to one side.
20 21 22
Work on the tail unit started with the introduced lengths of brass rod inserted cables are of course flat, this does not
removal of the elevator control rods which into holes drilled so as to obtain 28 show much but the balance tab connection
Airfix moulded as one piece with the degrees angle of drop at the elevators. to the vertical stabilizer must be replaced
horizontal stabilizer support struts. These I fixed the elevators before the rudder by stretched sprue as it was not cable but
were later replaced by the Eduard ones, contrary to Airfix instructions pic 21, in rod.
which are much more to scale. order to ensure that the angle of drop is
The support struts themselves were exactly the same between them. I used the Eduard Brassin resin tailwheel
thinned pic 20 a procedure greatly I thinned the ‘rudder servo tab’ (the term which was reinforced with some metal
facilitated by Airfix giving the struts Supermarine gave to what today is called a tubing so as to withstand the stresses
connections at their lower ends to assist in ‘balance tab’) at its trailing edge, with during the build, and the inevitable bending
their correct positioning on the hull, superb precautionary masking with a piece of tape in the showcase in the years to come!
engineering indeed! pic 22. When on the ground the Walrus’s tailwheel
The horizontal stabilizer was found to be a I used the same method of attaching the was disengaged from the rudder controls
little warped in my kit and was set straight rudder to its rudder post as I did the via a lever operated by the pilot in the
by hand. As the plastic is soft there is no elevators. The rudder was deflected to the cockpit to avoid the rudder hitting its stops
danger of breaking the part at any point. right, in relation to the rudder pedals during taxiing and/or limiting the tailwheel
position in the cockpit. Unfortunately the travel. This little technical note is to clarify
Seeing the method of attaching the rudder and balance tab horns are missing the different angle of the tailwheel in
elevators that is proposed by Airfix, I opted from the kit! Eduard supplies these in relation to the rudder on the model.
for a more fail-safe solution and so I photo-etched form. The rudder control
6
Back to the hull topside and a hole was

opened pic 23 where a skylight existed to let
daylight enter the otherwise dark wireless
operators’ compartment. Its diameter was
checked using a punch-and-die tool pic 24
and a transparent acetate disk was cut using
the same tool pic 25. The transparent disk
was fixed in position and its protective frame
which is supplied by Eduard was fixed with
cyanoacrylate.
23 24
I went on to fix the main landing gear in
position, but …stopped again… in realizing
that the main gear strut upper pins should be
inserted lower than the point Airfix provided,
when the gear is to be in the extended
position. This in turn caused a slight angle
change of the radius rods (drag struts) in
relation to the main gear struts, and the
repositioning of the downlocking arms…
…actually replaced by brass rods pic 26.
25 26
Next, the challenge of rigging. The smooth. In this way I avoided the round nacelle is in position, and sixteen lengths of
procedure I followed has caused a major shape common to conventional bracing nylon threads are ready to be tightened.
deviation from the instructions. It was wires. I varied the width of the RAF Wires The threads were first glued at their
based on the thought that the RAF Wires by making the interplane wires out of three endpoints on the nacelle but before gluing,
should be tightened enough to avoid slack, nylon threads, the incidence wires out of they were heated so as to form a ‘head’ to
and withstand all kinds of abuse during the two and the engine support struts and prevent them from passing through their
rest of the build, and in the years to come. wingtip floats bracing wires from a single holes when tightened.
Thus they should be of nylon thread and length of nylon. The threads now are tightened as seen in
secured through holes drilled at their I started the rigging procedure with drilling pic 31 with my right hand holding them in
respective points of anchoring on the and installing the wing floats bracing wires position, and my left hand inserting a
wings. In order to make them look like as seen in pic 28. Prior to the engine length of stretched sprue in the hole, to act
being lenticular in section and not round, nacelle installation I had to cut off the as a plug. By pulling gently outwards with
three parallel lengths Pic 27 of nylon (two) carburettor air intakes, which were my right hand now holding both nylon and
thread were joined together to form one replaced by one (as was the norm), and stretched sprue, a drop of cyanoacrylate is
flat-sectioned length which was then which was glued on the engine soon to be put on the support strut inner side.
covered in thick cyanoacrylate and sanded assembled pic 28. In pic 30, the engine
30
27 28
29
7
31 32 33
Following the engine nacelle, the wings are now drilled for the
same procedure pic 32 and the whole assembly was brought
together and secured with rubber bands pic 33, the length of
which was adjusted so as not to exert a high load on the wings.
This could lead to bending of the wings or the outer struts
themselves. Now the upper wing topsides were removed and the
interplane and incidence wires were glued in place. Their ends
were heated and flattened; polymer powder mixed with
cyanoacrylate secured them in place pic 34.
Given the opportunity, the wings trailing edges pic 35 were
thinned considerably to obtain a knife-edge look. The bracing
wires are now placed at their upper endpoints; the top wing
uppersurfaces were cemented to their respective undersurfaces
and held in position with tape. In the meantime, the lower wings
uppersurfaces (ONLY) were glued to the hull pic 36.
As the wing struts are passing through the lower wings, forming
34 35
the wing float support struts, the correct angles are maintained
constantly, greatly facilitating the assembly procedure, a benefit
for all, and once more showing the good engineering employed in
this kit. Some filling with plasticard was carried out on the
starboard front strut pic 37 and the strut lengths protruding under
the lower wings pic 38 were glued to the undersurfaces.
Now the floats were cemented on their struts pic 39, and set
aside for the glue to set thoroughly. Everything is ‘in place’, except
for the fact that the lower wings upper and lower parts are NOT
cemented together. The time came for the undersurfaces of the
lower wings to be separated, and the rigging to be finished. So 36 37
the rubber bands were simply cut away pic 40.
38 39 40 41
42
A Tritool saw was used to cut through the
struts pics 41 & 42.
8
43 44 45
46 47 48
The wings undersurfaces are now Before assembling the lower wing surfaces accurate but nevertheless necessary…
separated pic 43…and the wing floats together, the jury struts (kit parts E19 and In pic 46 the jury cable is secured by the
rigging was finished in much the same way E20), situated between the wings front sleeve, which in turn holds the metal pin
as described earlier, using stretched sprue spars just outside the hull were taken care (lowered in the wing)… while in pic 47 the
pulled through the holes, in itself pulling the of. These were replaced by more jury strut was placed under the upper wing,
threads tight; then glued. I took care not to streamlined ones made of toothpicks pic via its upper brass pin and sleeve. Then the
overtight the nylon threads as this could 45, their wood grain eradicated by soaking strut was aligned with the hole in the lower
lead to the bending of the wing in cyanoacrylate and sanded to a glossy wing and the brass pin lowered previously
undersurfaces. In pic 44, the heat- finish. As the holes provided by Airfix on the was pushed up into the strut pic 48 with
flattening procedure was carried out with wings were large, sleeves were fabricated the aid of a small flat screwdriver. Both
the aid of a blade pre-heated by a lighter. from styrene rod to lessen the hole struts were then aligned to the aircraft
Additionally, a secondary application of diameter. Small lengths of brass rods were centreline and glued with cyanoacrylate.
cyanoacrylate ensured nothing would used to join the jury struts to the wings The lower wings undersurfaces were once
cause a thread to give way for one reason through the sleeves. As the sleeves again mated to their respective
or another. All of this was applied to the equipped with their pins went in the wing, uppersurfaces and cemented together,
mainplanes rigging as well, the loose ends an extra cable (the jury cable) was thus signalling an end to the deviation the
of all threads now terminating in the lower tightened and glued in the same hole the rigging has imposed in the construction.
wing uppersurfaces. jury struts would later occupy. Not entirely
9
49 50 51
52 53 54
The Walrus went through a number of part B05 pic 51 has been reworked, in detail according to the Walrus manual. I
small corrections and little things were order to show the flying boat slinging gear fabricated the hoisting cables from lead
brought to attention to enhance the that was carried atop the centre section to wire of two different diameters, as the real
models’ overall appearance when in the hoist the Walrus aboard ships, along with cables were 140cwt (front) and 60cwt
showcase. As referred to earlier, all trailing details not included in the kit. It must be (rear). Some minor details were also
edges were made thinner. noted though that the flying boat’s included in the rebuild pic 53, one of them
The mooring bollards were fixed in place operational environment changed being the repositioning of the fuel filler
pic 49 and when set, were cut and throughout its service life so the equipment caps which Airfix moulded in a ‘copy/ paste
replaced by smaller ones. mentioned may well have been removed inverse’ fashion of the wings topsides.
I did the same to the antennae masts while the Walrus was operating from shore As can be seen in pic 54, the port filler
which I replaced with lengths of brass bases and not aboard ships. cap was removed with a razor blade and
tubes. Through the tubes I inserted twisted As the top centre section skin of the flying cemented at its ‘technically normal’
wire pic 50, its endpoint protruding so as boat was made of plywood, I sanded it flat position.
to form a loop for the antenna to pass erasing all detail pic 52.
through. The upper wing centre section (kit I went on with the scribing of the surface
One more issue concerning symmetry, is the subtle

difference that can be seen in the trailing edge cut-
out of the Walrus upper wings, the starboard wing
cut-out being deeper than the port one pic 55. It can
be attributed to the off-centre line position of the
propeller ‘vertical’ blades, taking up more space off
the starboard wing, when the wings are folded, or the
angle of rotation of the propeller ‘disk’. In
contemporary photographs it is barely discernible and
it has to be seen from certain angles to be spotted.
There is only a drawing in the Walrus manual (which
deals with bombs fusing -lower wing- but includes this
upper wing trailing edge asymmetry almost by
accident), that prompted me to incorporate it on my
55 56 model. In pic 56 can be seen the extension of the
port trailing edge that was made with polymer powder
soaked in cyanoacrylate on a piece of tape.
10
57 58 59
Next came the landing light. The Walrus leading edge! Thus a photo illustrating only masked the transparency with Bare Metal
was equipped with one single landing light the right side of an aircraft may not be foil, filled the surrounding area with Milliput
on the port lower wing leading edge, or one enough, so some research may be Black, and sanded everything smooth pic
under the starboard wing undersurface necessary for one to conclude on this. I 57. I used Microgloss liquid abrasive to
ahead of the aileron, or both lights on the used the first option, I replaced the light restore the transparency pic 58, and the
same aircraft or twin landing lights situated itself by a lens, and fitted the Airfix landing light is seen finished in pic 59.
side-by-side, again on the port lower wing transparency (kit part F05) in place. I
The project concludes in the next issue
11
Hasegawa’s SH-3H gets super-detailed by JORDI LARIO
12
My represented model is an SH-3H, assigned to the HS-3

TRIDENTS in 1982, embarked on the aircraft carrier USS Forrestal
(CV-59) and CVW-17. As a Navy enthusiast, this emblematic model
could not be left out from the list of my favourite subjects. it is based
on the1:48 Hasegawa kit reference PT-1. I have tried to represent the
whole interior for an anti-submarine warfare mission, as well as the
ribcage, wiring and instrumentation, all from scratch along with
opening the crew entrance door and the loading door.
The armament carried is two Mk-46 torpedoes, included in the kit, I
have added the Wheel bay 4362 by Aires and some photoetch by
Eduard, 48412 for the exterior and 48408 for the interior. The latter
details the main cockpit (seats and instrumentation), the access
stairway (so necessary if you wish to display this door open) and some
other details. For the markings, I have opted for the HS-3 Tridents
scheme supplied by SB-Decals (reference SB48006 US NAVY
SEAKINGS High-Vis Part 1).
1:48 13
The first step in detailing the interior is to add the

airframe structure with strips of plastic profile.
Templates were made for the vertical ribs as the Before too much fine work was done inside the Here we see the detail building in layers, working
contours are mirrored on each side (numbered fuselage the large side door was cut out and the with good reference I was able to add wiring and
for ease). opening edges made good. electrical components.
Plastic card and stock was used to construct the The winch mechanism is built from plastic stock,
work stations and detail the floor, again working lead wire and items raided from my spares box
closely with good reference images. (including some spare photoetch parts).
The roof of the fuselage is also fully detailed but is barely visible on the finished After airbrushing my base
model...’but I know it’s there’ as we so often quote! Many dry fits were carried out colours the interior
and adjustments made before I could begin painting the interiors. components were picked
out with Vallejo acrylics
with strong tones and
contrasts to compensate
for the lack of light inside
the model. The bright
colours of the switches,
fire extinguisher and crew
helmets give a busy and
detailed look.
Note the weathering to the floor and access

areas, the usual dark washes and application of
pigment powders achieved this.
14
Moulded kit parts

or even resin can’t get
Here we see the detail added to the rotor head Another feature worth the effort is the lowered close to the finesse of
with plastic card and lead wire, as it’s a focal crew door created in photoetch from the Eduard photoetch for parts such as these.
point of a helicopter it’s worth adding detail here. exterior set and brass rod.
As I’d decided to not fold the tail I found a little

filler was needed at the joint. Note the use of the
photoetch surface details throughout.
The photoetch parts were

polished and any CA glue residue
removed with glass-fibre brushes.
Hasegawa’s kit is still good but not up to the

level of finesse we are used to with the latest
releases in this ‘Golden Age’ of modelling.
The small amount of photoetch and
preparation of the surfaces is worth the effort.
Here we are ready for lots of masking before
airbrushing the dark grey-brown primer coat.
The completed
interior ready to be
closed up (and
mostly hidden!).
15
I knew very little of the exhausts would be More detailing which is barely visible on the Packing sponge was used to protect the
seen but I still went ahead and painted completed model is inside the cockpit interior and exhausts along with lots of
them! As the base colour I used Alclad glazing. Some kit parts, Eduard photoetch careful masking with Tamiya tape; essential
ALC111 (pigments do not adhere well to and scratchbuilt wiring respond well to work as any overspray inside will be all but
metallic surfaces, so I applied a matt some careful painting. impossible to rectify later.
varnish). I selectively applied brown XF-68
with the airbrush, and then pigments
AK2042 – P025 – P024 by AK and MIG
Productions for the mottled rust effects.
The inner part is not

rusty, but black, with
AK2038 Smoke.
Alclad II ALC-111 was used for

the area around the nozzles and
H305 for the dark grey area.
The classic colours of the US Navy

are light gull grey and insignia white.
For the insignia white I used XF-2 by
Tamiya, and for the light gull gray I
use XF-19 as a base and I gradually
increased the colour with FS16440
H315 by MR. Hobby (Light gull grey, After the basic
my choice for the final appearance of colours were dry an
Navy grey in this scale.) The white overall coat of gloss clear is
and grey is not applied in a uniform applied to help the decals sit well on the
manner but panels highlighted using surface. The decals from SB don’t
the underlying primer coat to subtly include some of the smaller stencils
16 show through. which I raided from the spares box.
From my references I noticed that the

rotor blades were dark on the underside
and distinctively lighter on the top
surface. Also the kit’s moulding of the
joint lines required gentle sanding and
polishing before paint. For the lighter side
I first applied XF-19 followed by AK
Interactive’s ‘Worn Effects’ AKO88
dabbed with a brush. Once dry I sprayed
H315, let it dry for ten minutes and
proceeded to ‘scrub’ the top layer with
warm water giving the mottled effect.
The main blades and tail rotor were again

given the gloss varnish treatment to avoid
any ‘silvering’ to the decals. Note on both
the rotor head and dark side of the blades
the various tones of greys and black to give
depth and realism.
The weapons add a

welcome splash of
colour, the Mk.46
anti-submarine
torpedos are finished
with Alclad metallics.
Still working over the gloss finish I airbrushed a

very diluted brown, Tamiya XF-10, on some
panel lines especially emphasizing areas with
exhaust staining. This process helps
tremendously with these light colours adding
depth and dimension.
I also applied AK067 and AK305 Streaking
Grime, two different shades, on joints and
selective areas creating a dirt effect on joints
and hinges with touches of rust staining added
to fasteners.
With a very diluted XF-68 I added more
discolouration around the exhausts and worked
AK2075 Paneliner across the joints and smaller
details to really lift the contrasts.
With the weathering finished I could apply a

final matt varnish to harmonise all the surfaces.
Once dry it was time for the most satisfying
process of removing the masking and fitting all
of the sub assemblies and details.
17
18
19
3
BUILDING THE AVIATTIC 1:32 ANSALDO A.1
MODELLED BY DAVID PARKER
The open areas of the fuselage and the fabric elements of the tail were I used the kit woodgrain decals to mark out the size of the individual plywood
masked and the fuselage was given a base coat of Mission Models MMP-082, panels that make up the fuselage. Working onto a wetted panel with a small
the same as had been used on the interior chisell brush I loosely applied the first woodgraining using Mission Models
MMP-016 mixed with MMP-082. The wet surface allowed the colour to soften
and bleed creating a slightly smudged finish.
The next stage was to begin working over the initial pattern once it had dried. I repeated the process on the next panel trying to vary the woodgrain pattern
I used the same 2 colours, mixing them to create different shades with pure so that there is a natural variation between the panels. Here the first wet
MMP-016 as the darkest shade. I switched from the chissel brush to a fine application has been made.
pointed brush for this.
20
The finer brush work is

then worked over the
second panel maintaining
the same techniques and
the same 2 colour
pallette. The slightly
darker finish of the
second panel helps to
break up the fuselage.
The process continues building up each individual panel. The more work I did fusleage which is less visible to get a feel for the process or practice on a
one the panels the more relaxed I became about shaping the woodgrain and test surface. I freehand painted a panel line between the panels using pure
it became more intuitive. My advice is to start as I did on the underside of the MMP-016.
Eventually I had all the panels

completed and the panel
lines applied. In the end I
chose a slightly darker tone to
define the panel lines.
21
The various inspection ports on the fuselage were simply created by cutting fuselage. This process leaves a darker ring around the edge of the circle to
circular masks from masking tape. Once in position on the fuselage I used a form the hint of a panel line. With the masks removed the effect is quite
few thin washes of MMP-016 to darken the tone of the circular ports on the convincing.
Before moving on I also applied some very dilute MMP-016 using a large flat panels to enhance the panel effect.
brush to apply and blend as a wash to the edges and corners of selected
The kit provides a set of nail decals produced by HGW using their superb Wet
Transfer system without any carrier film. The decal is applied on a transparent
carrier film and allowed to thoroughly dry. Unfortunately the main nail sheet for
the fuselage does not exactly match the profile of the fuselage so I had to
compromise the positioning to get the best result but the nails along the
bottom edge of the fuselage have rolled onto the underside in places. I also
found that my panel lines which were based on the Aviattic decals did not
match the nails, especially the rearmost panel on the fuselage sides. However
The effect I now had was very much as an unfinished wood, in order to give it with a wet decal positioned on the fuselage it was too late to make any
a more varnished appearance I applied a light overspray of MRP clear yellow. adjustments and I had to live with the diagonal nail heads not lining up with
This also gave a good satin finish to apply the nail decals. the panel line.
I left the decal to dry overnight and then the carrier film was peeled off leaving Further nail details like the rings around the inspection ports and across the
all the delicate nail heads in place. The HGW system gives superb results and top of the fuselage were added as individual decal elements in the same
with no film there is no possibilty of silvering. way.
22
The Polish markings were then applied to the fuselage without any problems
and sealed under a coat of MMP Satin varnish.
The next job is to construct some of the external fuselage fittings. Most like part into a soft surface using the tip of a Mission Models Multitool to dome
the foot steps are simply flat photoetch to be glued into position but the vent the part. This was then soldered into the U-shaped frame. For the control
covers and aileron control slot surrounds need to be assembled from slots the raised lip has to be rounded to conform to the shape of the base
photoetched parts. The vents have to be shaped which I did by pushing the plate and for this I used CA glue to join the parts
The fittings were pre-painted before being glued into place on the fuselage with final
weathering still to be applied. With the masking removed the cockpit surround was painted in
and the struts painting in a satin black.
The project continues in the next issue.
23
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The Messerschmitt Bf 110 was originally developed as a heavy fighter or

‘Zerstörer’ with also the ground attack role ranging among its duties, ultimately that was not
really the role in which the Me 110 proved its worth. It had a hard time standing its ground in
the Battle of Britain against the very fast and agile English fighters, in fact it had to be
withdrawn at times due to the high rate of losses. The real glory hour for this aircraft came
when Germany came under increasing attack from Allied Night time bombing and the
Luftwaffe had act quickly in defence. The ‘110 turned into a formidable night fighter and
soon became the main foe for Allied bomber crews. By then the aircraft had been fitted with
the Fug 220 Lichtenstein Radar and the famous ‘Schräge Musik’ upward firing, twin
machine-cannon installation situated in the rear cabin of the aircraft which proved highly
effective against the bombers.
For such a famous player in the Luftwaffe’s history we have had some disappointing
releases over the years of the ‘G’ until Eduard stepped up to the plate in 2013.
Eduard has released a whole series of highly acclaimed Me 110s in both 1:48 and 1:72.
With accurate shapes and profiles, superb and restrained surface detail and a great fit
what’s not to like about these kits? The popularity of the G4 is evident by the continued re-
boxing by Eduard with detail upgrades and marking options, one of the latest versions being
a Profipak Edition released last year. The boxing I had in the stash comes with a choice of
four different aircraft, from which I chose the aircraft of Hauptmann Wilhelm Johnen from
the 7th NJG 3. Wilhelm Johnen was an ace with 34 confirmed kills to his credit.
26
27
build As mentioned, the fit of the

major components is very
good with a minimal amount of
filler required. Moulding is
excellent and void of distortion
or sink marks. Two full sprues
are changed from Eduard’s
other ‘110 kits including the
up-armoured fuselage, nose
options, wing tips and the
machine guns and cannons.
The surface detail is as fine as one could

expect in 1:72 although I did choose to add
some very fine rivets with a rivetting tool.
The canopy is commendably thin and
moulded in sections to pose as you wish.
I used the Eduard Brassin Cockpit

to top the already good cockpit. It
was a little problematic to fit and
required some adjustment but
ultimately worth it. In 1:72 a little
exaggeration of the contrasts in
shadow and highlight colours helps
lift all of that fine detail.
The usual drybrushing of lighter

tones followed by a dark burnt
umber and black oil-paint wash was
The details of the cabin completed before fine detail painting
and cockpit are very in acrylics.
nice and they include
the upward firing
‘Strange Music’ twin
machine-cannon
installed behind the
gunners position.
Eduard’s printed
photoetch instrument
panels are very
welcome in 1:72!
28
All the control surfaces received special

treatment with some careful cutting and
placing them in a slightly different
position to add some depth and interest
into the model. I also used a riveting tool
again to add some more surface details.
The fabric surfaces look superb
throughout without exaggerated sagging
and delicately moulded rib tape.
The nose weapons were missing and I

wanted to show the formidable twin Mk
108 Cannons, a slow firing but
The tail wheel assembly did not pass my I decided to build in an exposed DB 601 extremely effective weapon, fitted to
quality test as it was cast in one piece and engine, also an Eduard part. It is very crisp the later Me 110 nightfighters. I made
lacked finesse. I replaced it with a and nicely detailed, I just added some them from scratch, using again my
scrachtbuilt unit made from Albion Alloys plumbing and wiring and the Eberspächer trusted Albion tubes, metal sheet and
tubes and metal sheet. I re-used the tail flame damper from OWL. Evergreen Plastic.
wheel from the kit after cleaning it up.
In fact I had to build the whole weapons bay from

scratch. The gun camera was added, using a
coloured lens
As for the oil coolers I cut the vents open and
fitted them with steel mesh on the inside. A tiny
touch of detail but very visible on the finished
model. Now I was ready to do a final check and
mask ready for paint. Eduard have captured the
‘110’s slender lines really well.
29
paint My choice of Luftwaffe greys for this model were model. Many ‘ready to use’ washes and weathering
Vallejo Air RLM 76, 75 and 66 (black-grey details). First solutions are available these days but I kept things ‘old
the undersides received an overall coat of 76 followed school’ here with a simple mix of burnt umber oil paint
by the upper surfaces, I then dropped the air pressure heavily thinned with turpentine. You need to aim for
and thinned the darker RLM 75 grey a touch to allow just slightly tinted thinner and let the mix flood into the
me to build-up the mottled areas gradually. This is engraved detail. Any excess can be removed with a
quite a forgiving scheme as there’s no masking large, clean tissue or cloth. Similar washes were used
involved and the darker patches are quite large, even for weathering such as staining from exhausts, fuel
in small scale. and cannons. Ground pastel chalk or pigments are
All of that beautiful surface detail responded well to also very controllable for such tasks and really add
some dark washes which really give dimension to the realism to the finished piece.
The kit features a very extensive decal sheet mostly consisting of stencils. If you want to
add them all you will be busy and frustrated at times due to the tiny size. As with most
aspects of modelling that present a challenge the results are satisfying (usually!).
I also swapped the kit wheels with

Eduard’s resin wheels and added Fuel filler
caps from NH Detail. For the landing lights
I fitted a lens from MV covered with the
kits glass part after thinning it out.
The Fug 220 aerials of the

Lichtenstein radar are included in
the kit, they are good and they
even come with an mounting aid in
the form of a photoetched part.
I thought however that these could
have more finesse with
homemade units from the Albion
Slide To fit range of ‘stepped’
30 tubing.
I used white glue to mount the

assemblies which allowed time
for some fine-tuning of their
position. Once set, PVA provides
a good hold and has the
advantage of not attacking any
paint or plastic, the reason many
modellers use it for clear parts
and canopies. The red and white
antennas are carefully brush
painted and add a welcome
splash of colour.
Another dash of colour is added by the distinctive copper tones of

the flame dampener exhaust outlets (as mentioned earlier I opted
for the nicely detailed resin versions from OWL, the kit provides
two styles of these nightfighter additions). Eduard’s upgraded
engine set responds well to some dark washes and detail painting
matching the detail levels and finesse of the cockpit.
The angled tail wheel and slight movement

of the control surfaces goes a long way in
adding some life into the finished model.
31
Now for the satisfying process of adding the small finishing details. I
changed the kit’s access step with a homemade one made from
steel rod, welded with a micro laser (no less!). Along with the radar
antenna these are the small, sharp details that ‘make’ the model and
add a personal touch.
For the antenna wire I used elastic fibre from Uschi van der Rosten,
designed for the job and works perfectly. The extra fuel cells also
required some attention, I thought that the mounting brackets were
looking too heavy, I replaced them with thin aluminium tubes inserted
into recessed holes drilled into the wing and tank.
It’s hard to capture the true sense of size and the finesse of detail of
a model in print, this can only be truly appreciated when viewing in
the flesh. Sitting back from my finished G4 I feel the extra work has
been worth it. Yes, Eduard’s kit will produce an excellent replica built
straight from the box and is certainly so well engineered that a novice
modeller will get great results, but some of us just can’t leave things
alone can we?!
32
33
38
When I heard that Italeri were First impressions were good, great details and
releasing a kit of one of the most plenty of detailed parts to do a straight from
wonderful jets ever in 1:32, I was the box build with six different schemes and
really exited, a ‘must have’ for my six versions possible the IIE, R, O, ZR, EE or
collection. the IIIR-IIIRS and the Swiss Air Force.
One thing that I notice right away was the
grainy surface of the plastic that did not look
good to me, and you will see that I was right.
So let’s see what can be achieved with this kit.
Franck Oudin
Shares his thoughts on Italeri’s big scale Mirage
39
The kit cockpit is well detailed but

the seat and instrument facia from
French aftermarket suppliers
‘Contact Resin’ add nice finesse.
Lets go...
As usual work starts with the cockpit and colours for the ejection seat. The rest of The three wheel bays were painted,
the inside of the fuselage, which is the cockpit received a dark wash and light washed, weathered and glued in place
separated into three main sections, you grey dry brush to highlight the details. along with the cockpit tub, making sure to
have the choice to include the complete The complete engine is painted in green as achieve a solid bond as the fit of all these
Atar 09C engine, although mostly hidden, I a base coat to receive the aluminium elements together is a bit tricky. I found
took the time to paint and weather it colour and a mix of light brown sprayed in clamps were required throughout the build.
properly. two areas. All details were then painted by
The cockpit is painted in black and the a steady hand and fine brush with acrylics. The instructions call out the required holes
inside of the fuselage with Gunze H-8 A dark wash was applied to give details to drill for your chosen version’s underwing
Aluminium. The cockpit is well detailed but and volume to the engine which will stores. Upper fuselages can then be
I decided to replace the seat and the unfortunately never be seen again… joined, then the bottom part is inserted
instrument panels and cover with the resin The air intakes inside are painted in once all is set firm; take your time to have
set from ‘Contact Resin’ from France, all aluminium and glued directly on the everything very well aligned before final
the parts fit very well and no major work is fuselage, not as depicted on the assembly gluing, there are some big parts with long
needed to upgrade your model, just follow instructions, for a better fit. joints!
some good reference to have the right
The tail can be put in place at this stage,

again the fit is not very good and some putty
was required to fill the resulting gaps.
The upper fuselage also received the Mr
Surfacer treatment brushed heavily to fill the
gap all along the joints. To finish the fuselage,
the nose cone is filled with fishing lead
weights to keep the nose on the ground at
the end of your build. I filled it with the lead
and white glue and let it dry overnight. The
nose cone was mated to the fuselage with a
disappointingly poor fit and a lot of sanding,
shaping and engraving was needed to not
spoil the sleek lines of the Mirage.
The moulded detail of the

engine responds well to
careful detail painting and
dark washes.
The superb ‘Master’ brass parts replaced the Pitot tube

and a little sanding is needed to avoid any steps on the
nose cone. Again depending on the chosen version, drill
all the necessary holes if you decide to display any
external tanks or missiles. The air brakes and wheel bays
are glued in place and the wings can assembled and
attached to the fuselage, again…the fit is poor, I followed
the kit instructions and a gap appeared on the bottom
side as I tried to get the best result on the top side. I used
palsticard strips to fill all the remaining gaps which works
well. Once it was all dry, sanded and cleaned the flaps are
glued in place, and this time the fit is thankfully good.
To finish the build the air intake covers are glued and a
nice gap appears...out with the putty again!
In 1:32 the delta wing design is

sure to have some large parts and
joints, I would still of expected
better for a new kit at this price.
Trunking to the compressor

face and engine is effective
once assembled.
Nose weights are a must to

avoid a tail-sitter. Nose cone
Ready for paint... shape requires adjustment to

flow into the fuselage.
The front canopy is masked, painted and put in place.

All areas are masked ready for paint and as I mentioned before
the surface is really rough, not really acceptable for a kit of such a
high price, so the entire surface is sanded and polished, which is
another disappointment to add to the growing list.
The rest of the detail parts are prepared and painted such as the
external tanks, missiles, wheels, landing gears and doors,
canopy…etc.
Being French, I had to do a Mirage from the Armée de l’air, a The black and white antennas on the tail finish the airbrush and
suitable scheme is available from the kit’s decal sheet with NATO masking work.
camouflage, dark green and grey, with undersides painted with A good polishing session and a coat of gloss varnish is applied to
aluminium, which is the first colour applied. Then the polished protect the paint and have a smooth surface for the decals, these
yellow zinc chromate panel is masked and painted, the are made by Cartograf, they are very well printed and react well
demarcation limits are masked and the top H-337 Grey Blue with setting solution. Again, a coat of gloss varnish is applied to
colour is sprayed, The grey blue nose part is masked and painted seal the decals and a wash is applied to the panel lines to give
and at last the black nose cone. Once completely 2dry and some depth to the detail. A coat of matt varnish is finally applied
polished with a soft cloth, the green camouflage is applied free- overall. A light weathering is done with different very diluted
hand, being a little complex it’s gently marked with a white pencil colours such as black-brown, and oil colours, not forgetting that
and the colour built-up slowly. the Mirage was well maintained, so subtle effects are the key, and
check your references as weathering can vary from one Mirage to
another.
It’s time now to complete the model by attaching all the remaining
parts, take extra care to attach the landing gear system and make
sure all is well aligned, especially the front wheel and landing gear.
Once done you have a superb Replica of one of the best looking
jets ever built, as Marcel Dassault said “If it looks
great, it will fly great”.
Gunze / Mr. Hobby finishing

products and paints are
always my first choice.
42
Je ne sais quoi...
Well, was it worth the effort? of course it was, the
finished model looks superb, but I was disappointed
with quality of the surfaces and some of the really
poor fitting parts in some areas and all the extra
work required to get the best out of the kit. For
such a modern jet with so much information
available and a high price…I was expecting
something much better.
Merci...
Thank you to Cyril Defever for the Mirage
documentation, Romain Flechon for his help and
advice during the build.
Thanks to Contact-resin for the upgrade set (ref CR

32004) and Piotr Czerkasow for the brass pitot tube
(ref 32-090) and finally thanks to the Editor for the kit.
43
new releases
Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf109 G-6

Whether you groaned or applauded the release of another 1:48 tricks especially around the engine bay with a superb DB605
scale '109, Tamiya new tooled releases are hard to ignore and engine and removable cowls which are magnet mounted as in
expectations are always high. Inside the exciting packaging is a some of Tamiya's other aircraft kits with a beautifully moulded
sensible number of sprues, Tamiya's reliable instructions, a colour hinged-open option moulded in one piece. More options include
fold-out markings guide, decals and a small pack containing air filters, drop tanks, 20mm cannon gondolas , 'Galland' armour
some poly-caps, canopy masks (printed but not pre-cut) magnets plate and all control surfaces (including radiator flaps) posable
and washers. Moulding is typically Tamiya; still up there with the with excellent mounting points. Decals cover three Luftwaffe
best in the business with beautiful finesse and super sharp panel options and look very comprehensive with top-quality printing,
lines and surface detail although smaller rivets have been left to unfortunately the seat belts are provided as decals also but a nice
the modeller's discretion. Looking over the sprues and pawing seated pilot figure is provided as a valid option. The dog-fight is
through the instructions it looks like what will set this kit apart from sure to rage for a long time amongst '109 fans as to which is the
the excellent kits already on the market from Eduard and Zvezda best on the market (the parts certainly show there are more
is Tamiya's legendary design and engineering which inevitably versions coming from Tamiya) but this is a beautiful kit in it's own
46 leads to a very enjoyable building experience. There's some clever right and Tamiya on top form.
Zvezda 1:72 YAK-130

Available in the UK now for a couple of months we have a sample figures) which is sandwiched between the front section and nose;
of Zvezda’s cute ‘Mitten’ YAK-130 in seventy second scale. From the upper fuselage and wings then drop in place (with separate
the kit a trainer or ground attack version can be built, and air-brake). There’s plenty of ordnance to choose from which again
common with Zvezda’s new-toolings it’s a little beauty. A very is superbly moulded and comes complete with stencil markings
busy box contains six smaller sprues of weapons and two larger included on the decal sheet. Decals are very well detailed and
sprues of the main airframe, engine and cockpit with superb provide three options along with technical markings. Clear parts
finesse and moulding with fine, sharp edges to the control are nice although the charge wiring looks a little over-scale as is
surfaces. Panel lines are as good as you’ll see in 1:72, so delicate usually the case. Some aftermarket photoetch (including a release
in fact you’ll need to consider this with your painting methods. from Eduard) is already available to take detail to the next level
Assembly is a little unconventional as it starts with the engine and but many modellers will be more than happy to build this kit from
trunking to which the landing gear is added and then the rear the box, great job Zvezda.
fuselage. Next comes the nicely detailed cockpit (including pilot
Mission Models
Mission Model’s excellent range of
acrylic based paint has extended into
some special metallic finishes
covering aluminium tones well suited
to bare metal finishes on airframes.
These spray beautifully with ultra fine
pigments. The ‘Chrome’ finish is
particularly impressive and has it’s
own black gloss primer which must be
applied to a good smooth surface for
best effect. The metallics are best
applied at 10-15psi and built gradually,
we found these very easy to use
straight from the bottle. See their
47
extensive range of aircraft colours at
www.missionmodelsus.com
With an obvious enormous amount of research, the author has compiled a detailed
Lend-Lease and Soviet Aviation look at the role of US and UK supplied aircraft to their Soviet allies drawing on
information from veterans, museums and Russian archives this is surely the most
in the Second World War comprehensive study of the topic published in English to date. Coverage starts with
Vladimir Kotelnikov the route involved delivering the aircraft and their subsequent modifications for cold
climates and Soviet requirements with the effect of their combat engagements on the
Published by Helion and Co. Russian war effort against the invasion of the Motherland. The book includes a steady
Hardback format, 656 pages flow of period images, around 700 in total! and around 100 colour profiles of a huge
ISBN 9781911 array of machines. Although undoubtably of great interest to anyone interested in the
www.casematepublishers.co.uk topic, with some unique images and in-depth information, we would have preferred a
larger format to allow the profiles and images to be of more use to modellers and the
retail price is pretty high in our opinion.
Tamiya 1:48 SS-100

Suited to anyone planning a Luftwaffe airfield diorama, the good with beautiful Tamiya finesse of moulding. A towing bar is
Hanomag heavy tractor was used in numerous aircraft towing included and a very nice driver figure. The cab is designed to click
roles and also V2 rockets. As common with all kits in this series into place as part of the final assembly so the whole of the interior
simple and enjoyable modelling is the order of the day, some and figure can be painted and finished first. A nice addition to a
modellers may have preferred opening doors and covers and diorama without a huge amount of work. Our thanks to The Hobby
more complex chassis detail but straight from the box the detail is Company for our sample Tamiya kits.
Italeri 1:72 KA-6D Intruder

Another release of Italeri’s buddy-tanker version of the Intruder is wings have the option of a folded display. Every available pylon
now available with a very nice new decal sheet. This is a very can be festooned with fuel tanks should you wish but if you’d
simple kit and typical of it’s 1990’s vintage although we do have prefer a regular A-6 with weapons you’ll have to dig into the
recessed panel lines and surface details which are good if not spares box as no ‘overs’ are included. Decals are excellent with
48 great. Overall the two grey sprues are well moulded and the four options on offer of aircraft from the early 1970s to 1990 all
tooling has held up well, shapes and profiles of this kit are with the grey / white scheme. Still a decent kit now with the bonus
considered really good and unlike some others on the market the of a lovely decal sheet.
Italeri 1:48 Ju 87 B-2/R-2 “Picchiatello”

An Italian boxing of Italeri’s smart ’Stuka’ or ‘Picchiatello’ as Regia flaps, a good selection of bombs and fuel tanks and perhaps the
Aeronautica referred to them with three options of Italian markings most notable feature being the well rendered Jumo engine. Even
included (and for good measure a British captured version and a the cockpit is commendable and a decent photoetched fret helps
Luftwaffe R-2 version). We’re reminded of what a good kit this with the finesse here (maybe the only thing we could have wished
really is and has only seemed to have thrown up some minor for would be some pre-cut canopy masks for the huge
niggles with modellers over the last few years. Italeri really can greenhouse!) The new decal sheet is very fine indeed as we’ve
produce some gems with their newer toolings and this is certainly come to expect from these ’Super Decal’ releases making this
one of the best with excellent surface detail, posable rudder and one of the most attractive versions of this kit to date.
MiniArt 1:35 FL 282 V-6 Kolibri

If your modelling interest stops and starts with aircraft there’s cockpit is complete with all controls and photoetched seatbelts.
every chance you may not have heard of the Ukrainian Engine cowls can be displayed removed and are very thin as are
manufacturer MiniArt who have steadily build a reputation with the rotor blades with a realistic ‘droop’ ready moulded-in. 1:35 is
armour modellers for producing some of the most highly detailed the ‘regular’ armour scale and MiniArt have promised some of
and accurate kits on the market. Here’s something quirky as their their excellent figures to accompany this kit, who knows, armour
first aircraft release in the form of the tiny German intermeshing modellers might even be tempted to build this one as there’s no
rotor helicopter the ‘Hummingbird’ with a handful actually seeing canopy to mask! Two marking options and colour schemes are
service with the Kriegsmarine in WWII. The kit is completely new included. Not a kit for beginners due to some very fine parts and
and displays MiniArt’s state-of-the-art moulding finesse which is photoetch but this will build into a superbly detailed display piece
49
very well suited to the appearance of this delicate aircraft with it’s straight from the box. Well worth keeping an eye on www.miniart-
tubular frame and radial engine beautifully rendered. The open models.com and looking them up on social media.
Arma Hobby 1:72 PZL P.7A

Some new kits of some great subjects from Poland’s Arma, the offered in overall olive green this is a great little weekend project
first couple are re-boxings of their PZL P.7A we looked at a few out of the box.
issues back. 70008 ‘Junior’ is a simple package containing one If you want something a little more detailed and involved 70006 is
aircraft and a small photoetched fret with markings for two Polish the ‘Expert’ version which has the same sprue of parts but with
aircraft on the decal sheet. Moulding is excellent with some fine more extensive photoetch, painting masks and a choice of four
surface detail and sharp finesse. The design of the kit is very marking options on an excellent Cartograf printed sheet. We think
simple, nothing fancy but with detail where you want it such as a this is a great way to offer these kits to modellers of all abilities and
multi-part radial engine including photoetched parts and an the retail prices are very keen indeed.
excellent cockpit with photoetched seat belts. With both schemes
Arma Hobby 1:72 Fokker E.V.

A new kit to Arma’s catalogue is this sweet little Fokker E.V. and with kit 70013 containing one sprue and two decal options, one
very nicely presented it is too, in common with Arma’s other kits Polish and one German (including the fuselage checkers) and an
the box art and instructions are of the highest quality. The kit itself ‘Expert’ boxing with 70012 which includes a superb photoetch fret
is a simple affair with straightforward assembly, moulding is and extensive decals of the lozenge patterns to cover the full
excellent with some nice finesse throughout including delicate thin airframe (including wood-grain and propellor) and markings for two
50 edges to the tail and rudder. A nice touch is the undercarriage legs Polish and two German aircraft. Small but beautifully formed, lovely
moulded as part of the fuselage belly section avoiding any tricky little kits.
alignment or strength issues. Again we have the ‘Junior’ approach
BR72342 BR72331 BR32329

BR72341
BR48330
BR48355
BR32338
BR32336
BR32339
Barracuda
New out from Barracuda are more top-quality resin upgrades to Eduard Fw 190 beautifully delicate exhausts (two sets are included).
add to their catalogue. All come with detailed instructions and are For the Revell 1:32 Spitfire Mk IX are some very nice additions to
well researched and cast to the highest standards. In 1:72 for the boost the detail and accuracy. BR32336 is a seat with backpad and
Spitfire is BR72341 containing 3 sets of 4-slot main wheels (mkVII armour, BR32338 is a superb cockpit entry door with separate
to 21) and BR72342 containing two delicate cockpit entry doors. crowbar and finally BR32339 a ‘Snapshot’ upgrade with some
Also in 1:72 is BR72331, P-40 B/C wheels with smooth pattern wonderful quick-fit cockpit side walls bursting with sharp detail and
tread with the same offered in 1:48 with set BR48330 and a 1:32 decals for interior markings. Best get over to
version with BR32329. Still with 1:48 is BR48355 offering the new www.barracudacast.com
Arma Hobby 1:72 TS-11

‘Iskra’ R Novax
This is a new version of Arma’s Polish jet
trainer with this reconnaissance version
equipped with a surveillance radar RDS-
81. Six aircraft were converted so this
could be considered niche to say the least!
The necessary items to produce this
version are neatly cast in resin and a
section of the nose has to be removed.
The original kit on it’s two sprues is of
course included and very nice it is too,
there is also a fret of photoetch, clear
printed film and pre-cut painting masks in
common with Arma’s ‘Expert’ boxings (this
kit is 70011). Four diverse colour options
are offered on the excellent Cartograf
decal sheet with call-outs on the very
nicely produced instruction booklet for
particular parts required for different
aircraft. A very detailed out-of-the-box
project. If you’ve any interest in Polish
aviation Arma’s website is a must
www.armahobby.com
Oleksandr Boiko Number 48 in Kagero’s ’Top Drawings’ series follows the usual
format of beautiful colour profiles and scale plans which provide
Published by Kagero
excellent, solid modelling reference. Plans are presented in 1:48
Soft back format, 24 pages and and 1:32 and are highly detailed covering all views with the float
Top Drawings
one A2 fold-out version F4F-3s and bi-wing version. The fold-out A2 sheet gives
Grumman F4 excellent reference for super-detailing a 1:32 project with rivet
English / Polish text
Wildcat lines included. A small pre-cut mask sheet is included for
ISBN 9788365437631 canopies, one for Tamiya’s 1:48 kit and strangely one for Airfix’s
www.casematepublishing.co.uk 1:72 kit. Another high quality production in the series with the 51
beautiful colour illustrations by Arkadiusz Wróbel worth the
asking price alone.
QB72573 QB48814 QB32199
4722
4731
QB32200 QB48794
4735 QB72555 QB48787
QB48795 QB32193
QB48791 QB48806
QB48811 QB72572
Aires
A selection from a resin avalanche of new releases from Aires the detail of the spinner and propellor QB48787 is just the ticket
starting with one of their famed cockpit sets, this one (4728) is with a VS-11 set-up (an alignment jig is also included). Several
designed for the Airfix 1:48 P-40B Warhawk with some very versions of 1:48 F-14 Tomcat chin pods have been released all
delicate detail indeed. Another big upgrade is 4736, a superb set designed to fit the beautiful Tamiya kit, QB48791 is the ECM
of nozzles for the Revell 1:48 Tornado and for AMK’s MiG-31is antenna version complete with neat semi-translucent red lenses.
4722 providing a set of detailed airbrakes. For another AMK kit is QB48806 is a highly detailed tail wheel for the AH-1 Skyraider in
4735, a set of gun bays for their 1:48 Kfir C2/C7 and 4731 is a set 1:48 (with other scales also available) and finally some exhaust
of very fine control surfaces for the Wingsy 1:48 A5M2 ‘Claude’.In upgrades with realy delicate detail; QB48795 is for 1:48 A5M2b
the Aero bonus range is an excellent seated pilot in 1:48 for USAF ‘Claude’, QB32193 for 1:32 Spitfire MkIXs (round exit type, fishtail
F-5Es. version also now available) and some very delicate outlets for the
In the Quickboost range QB72573 gives us a set of gun packs for 1:72 PBY Catilina from Academy. Finally for the 1:48 Hobby Boss
1:72 B-25s, QB48814 a Parabellum MG 14/17 in 1:48, QB32199 a Su-17M4 Fitter-K is a parachute container, QB48811 is the product
set of MGs in 1:32 for the He 219 A0-A2 and QB32200 is another code. For the full selection of Aires new releases check out their
52 set of 1:32 MGs for A65Mc Zeros. An excellent pair of seats for website for up to date news and their full catalogue www.aires.cz
your next Stuka in 1:48 is set QB48794 and if you want to upgrade
72151
72148 72149 72150
48343
72153 48344
72152 48345
14427
32126
32125
48346
32128
32127
18003
Scale Aircraft Conversions
New releases to the SAC catalogue of white metal landing gear Up to 1:32, all for Wingnuts kits is set 32125 for Fokker E.1s, 32126
upgrades are all available now. In 1:72 is 72148 for the A Model’s for the De Havilland DH.9a Ninak and 32127 for the Jeannin
Tu-134, 71249 for the Airfix Me 262A-1A, 72150 for the Valom Stahltaub with landing legs and also wire supports. Finally in 1:32
B/RB-45A/C Tornado, 72151 for any boxing of the T-45A/C is 32128 for Roden’s 0-2A Skymaster. Also for a Roden kit is 14427
Goshawk L, 72152 is designed for the ICM Fw 189A-1/2 and for for the 1:144 C-5B Galaxy.
Modelcollect’s B-2 Spirit is set 72153. Not a scale we often see for aircraft is 1:18 but not to be left out
For builders of 1:48 is set 48343 for Airfix’s Walrus as featured in we’ve set 18003 for the Hobby Boss Fw 190A-5; enormous!
this issue, 48344 is for Airfix’s new P-51, 48345 is for Sword’s www.scaleaircraftconversions.com is the place for SAC’s latest
Lightning T Mk. 4/5 and for the Avant Garde’s Kfir C2/7 is set news.
48346.
Italeri 1:72 C-27J Spartan
Italeri’s C-27 has been re-boxed with the ’Super Decals’ treatment separate control surfaces and all of the airframe has decent
with the kit appearing unchanged. Being less than a decade old recessed panel lines. The reference booklet from the original
the tooling and moulding is nice with a fully detailed interior and release doesn’t make a show but the decal sheet compensates
cargo area looking good and very complete with a chance to show for this with two U.S. (including a striking current coast Guard
it off with posable cargo and side doors. A full ‘inner fuselage’ is scheme) and one Italian marking with the detail and print from
clamped between the traditional fuselage halves and the wing Cartograf superb. A nice kit which has a really nice presence as a 53
assembly sits onto a sturdy mating surface. The wings feature finished display.
E D U A R D ’ S E A R LY
G U S TAV S I X
MODELLED BY
RENZO
BORTOLOTTO
54
1:48
MESSERSCHMITT
Bf.109 G6
This particular fighter was flown by Hptm.
Alfred Hammer that totalled 26 victories
during his carrier. His first kill was a Spitfire
over Malta on October 25, 1942, the last an
Auster destroyed on April 14, 1945.
Hammer became the CO of IV. Gruppe of JG
53 in January 1945 and led the Gruppe until
the end of the war.
Hammer was based at Vienna-Seyring
Airport and wounded by return fire from a B-
17 bomber in January 1944 most probably
flying this aircraft, ‘Yellow One’. The ‘Ace of
Spades’ emblem (in german ‘Pik-As’) was a
JG 53 crest, while the red fuselage band
was typical only for the period from early
1944.
55
Home-made masks
created the national
markings.
Gunze H68, H69 and H417 were

used to create the classic
Luftwaffe camouflage.
Gloss varnish provides the

best surface to apply the
decals and add washes.
AK Interactive ‘Ultra Matte’

is exactly that providing a
perfectly flat finish.
Eduard have provided a beautiful

out-of-the-box project with this kit,
the level of detail is simply superb.
ONE FINE 109

Building this Kit from Eduard’s new line of 400 Thinner and 50% Mr. Levelling Thinner Tamiya tape and airbrushed.
109s is an absolute pleasure! Perfect 400). The circle antenna on the spine just behind
instructions, good plastic and what about When dry I used AK Interactive 2072 cockpit was cut from white metal and
the fit, just perfect! I encountered no Paneliner for the grey and blue camouflage polished with various grades of abrasive
problems building this kit and the detail is areas across the entire model. I removed paper. Finally brushed with gloss varnish
simply superb, even the most demanding the excess with a very soft cotton cloth, from Vallejo it gives a touch of sparkle.
of modellers couldn’t ask for more. Eduard moving in a 'circular' motion leaves the The antennae wire has small isolators
‘Profipack’ kits include photoetched parts wash highlighting the desired details. reproduced using Evergreen section
for the cockpit and other details plus a pre- When the paneliner was dry I gave two inserted into the chuck of my motor tool
cut adhesive masking sheet and decals for coats of H30 Gunze Clear Gloss, this time acting as a mini-lathe. Once shaped the
four or five different versions. When I diluted 30% H30 to 70% thinner to protect tiny pieces were drilled with great care and
pondered the plans to choose a version the completed work so far and prepare the then inserted onto the antenna.
straight from the box I was struck by the surfaces for decals.
beauty of the fighter of CO A.Hammer. JG Decals as mentioned are from the kit, a I wanted to create a little scene for this
53 was famous for the particular care little thick with a visible transparent outline. fantastic Luftwaffe fighter. Something
taken of their 109s with some very well Often modellers trim back the carrier film simple. I thought of a rare moment of
presented combat aircraft. After the easy but I find it easy to create a little ‘step’ relaxation where the pilot was waiting for a
assembly of the cockpit all was painted in which is difficult to hide. I choose to use possible scramble, resting in a deck chair
RLM 66 (Gunze H416) I followed the the ‘micro SOL' and ‘micro SET' from along side his steed. No figure was
instructions to the word with nothing to Microscale which worked well. With a soft intentionally shown, only the officer's hat,
report but fine detail and excellent fit. damp cloth I cleaned the area around the placed on the corner of the chair.
Before applying any camouflage I applied decals ready for a sealing coat of clear
the red band in RLM23 (Gunze H414). gloss. Once sure that the whole surface
When dry I proceed with classical RLM was perfectly dry, I carefully sanded with
74/75/76. As I usually use Gunze acrylic 2600 fine emery paper just to remove the
paint, they were H68-H69-H417. Preferring step between the decals and paint surface.
to paint markings I started with RLM 74 for After this operation I laid AK183 ‘ULTRA
the centre of the national crosses. More MATTE’ diluted with AK’s own thinner
home-made masks were created and the product AK712 in the ratio of 2 to 1 (2
white outlines to the crosses airbrushed thinner, 1 Matt).
with white H11. Next with very diluted Some traces of oil and fuel stains
colour I emphasized lights and shadows coming from engine cowl was reproduced
inside and outside the panels lines followed on the undersides by airbrushing heavily
by a couple of coats of gloss clear H30 diluted black. The white band around the
40% plus 60% thinner (using 50% Gunze spinner was masked with thin strips of
57
58 MESSERSCHMITT
Eduard have responded to the critics of their previous

Bf 109 kits in the best way possible with this superb
new tooling. With a full range of super-detail
accessories in their catalogue these kits really do offer
something for modellers of all skill levels.
Bf.109 G6 59
S E V E N T Y
60
S E C O N D S C A L E
COBRA P A RT
ANDREA VIGNOCCHI
CONCLUDES HIS SUPER-
O DETAILED PROJECT
TW DESCRIBING THE PAINTING 61
AND DIORAMA
The assembly is finished: after masking all that you see in all the photos of these Lacquer Thinner. It is best to prepare a
the openings of the model, I am finally helicopters. I made the following blends: good amount of basic colours because
ready to begin painting, the phase I prefer. the light grey 36375 was obtained with 60 they will also serve to make light and dark
I started with a primer coat; in order to drops of matt white, 20 drops of grey mixtures for shading. I started by
have a light coloured base I mixed the 36375, 30 drops of RLM 76 and 1 drop of airbrushing a light grey coat, letting the
white and gray Alclad primers, diluted with light blue H 25, which will give the right preshading show through, then I finished
the excellent Tamiya lacquer thinner. On bluish shade to the colour; this shade is the colour off with very diluted light and
this base I made a very precise preshading valid for the Supercobra that appears very dark shades, in order to obtain the typical
along the panels, using a very diluted dark clear in the photos but I am not saying that look of the paint of the Supercobra, full of
grey, with at least 70% thinner. it can be applied to all planes of this stains and shades. The dark blue grey was
colour... For the dark grey the blend is as applied free hand, using masks only on the
Gunze provides the correct Federal follows: 40 drops of grey 35237, 20 drops top of the wings and tail planes.
Standard colours for the Supercobra, but of matt white and 1 drop of H 25 light. To
the gray tones did not satisfy me because the mixes I always add a drop of Gunze's
they are too dark and without the blue hue flat base and dilute the colours with Tamiya
After the base painting, I airbrushed a light Aeromaster

transparent coat, the best in my opinion; if applied in
very diluted coats, it is very fine and does not create any
thickness. The sharkmouth's decal shape did not satisfy
me, and, since I had a photo of the real Cobra in flight, I
decided to do everything again, getting inspiration from
that photo. I first made a mask and applied red to it with
the airbrush, then all the teeth were brush painted; as it
appears that they have been painted this way on the
real aircraft, being very irregular and of very different
shapes, perfect for the brush. The gun turret with the
20mm cannon was also painted at this time in order to
have a good uniformity with the rest of sharkmouth. The
barrels were coloured in Alclad Jet Exhaust.
The Olymp set decal sheet had the transparent film turned yellow and so I had a
friend of mine print a new sheet, but this was not perfect either; in the end, I used
parts coming from various sheets: Italeri, Olymp, the home made sheet, as well as
many low visibility stencils from the spares box. Low-intensity lights were made with
Tauromodel transparent decal strips, coloured in black and in the typical yellowish
colour. All decals were applied with the help of the usual Microscale Liquids. The
decals were toned down with an ultra-diluted light grey coat, airbrushed from a
certain distance and with great caution, since it takes a little to do some damage. A
second gloss transparent coat will protect the decals from subsequent weathering.
62
One of the main difficulties of painting is to different method for oil washing, as one the Supercobra tend to push the exhaust
know how much the colours will change in cannot consider rubbing the model with gases on the tailboom, creating a typical
the various steps; if we start from a base the absorbent paper to eliminate the dark spot: I reproduced it using very diluted
that looks right, the gloss transparent coat excess oil, as all the details would be colour and airbrushing it at very low
and the oil washes will make it too dark damaged. Washes should therefore be pressure.
and vice versa if the base is too light, that applied with precision, avoiding applying it
is the colour will be too faded at the end. I too much out of the panels; as soon as the At this point the painting is almost
do not think there is a formula suitable for wash becomes opaque (the thinner complete and ready for the weathering
all models, only the experience and good evaporates) with a damp cotton pad, I phase. Having a photo of the real Cobra in
references help find the right balance. In gently lifted the excess, while in the most Afghanistan, I chose not to exaggerate,
principle I would say that at the end of the difficult areas I used a clean brush. You though some helicopters are incredibly
base painting, before the gloss transparent can see how inserting a pin into the rotor dirty; this is the Cobra of the squadron
coat, the model has to be slightly lighter hole makes it easy to handle the model, leader that is kept in better conditions than
and with more marked contrast than we otherwise it is too delicate. The final effect the others, so weathering is based on the
want to get at the end, because the matt is excellent: panels and rivets were real aircraft’s pictures. Basically I used two
varnish will mute everything and the gloss highlighted and the aircraft takes on a oil paints, Siena Earth for oil drips and
coat and oil washes will tend to darken the more dirty look, but without becoming a Cassel Earth for dirt and stains. A very
base colour. I like to do oil washes “tone on caricature. small amount of colour is deposited near
tone”, so I almost never use the stock the area where we want to create the dirt,
products, as they limit this possibility. For These helicopters are extremely faded due then it is faded with a clean brush
the Supercobra I chose a medium grey, to sun and salt. The Polly matt varnish dampened in the thinner; I always use
not too dark because the helicopter is (formerly Aeromaster) is perfect to get this Universal thinner for fine arts, both for
already packed with rivets and accessories finish, just be careful because it tends to washing and weathering.
of every kind scattered everywhere, so the whiten, so we have to airbrush light, very
washing does not have to be too dark. The diluted coats and always check between
particular helicopter layout imposes a one layer and the other. The big blades of
63
With the weathering complete, it was time to install the weapons;

the decision to not fix the skids in the previous stages proved to
be right because otherwise it would have been impossible to get a
good alignment of the external loads. After gluing the skids, I
weathered them with Humbrol enamel colours, using grey on the
anti-slip and sand to reproduce dust, all with the usual drybrush
technique, still valid for certain jobs. Now is time to install the gun
turret: brass barrels are beautiful, but the assembly is very
delicate and the model must be handled with caution. I also glued
flare launchers over the wings.
The rigging of the hatches, rotors and cockpit doors end the
construction of the model. Particularly complex was the installation
of the cockpit doors; the hydraulic jacks that control the opening
are made with Albion Alloy tubes. The various access doors are
easier to install and in this case I just added the support cables
made with stretched sprue. The helmet of one of the pilots, a
beautiful piece of resin from Reedoak, creates a point of interest
under the cockpit. Maintenance tools on the right engine door
step suggests the idea of the technical failure that will be the
basic idea for the diorama.
T H E D I O R A M A
The scene I imagined is inspired by a photo of a Supercobra
landed in the Afghan desert to get rearmed, guarded by armed
Marines and refueling specialists. I wanted to show open the
engine compartments and the access doors under the cockpit;
the problem is that usually these doors are open only in
maintenance, but I really liked that picture, with the helicopter in
the desert... So I put my fantasy to the test and imagined an
engine failure that forced the crew to make an emergency
landing in the desert, having them call a maintenance
specialist. The scene is made up of the Supercobra, of an old
mark HUMVEE with rear bin, of pilots, of some Marines and of a
specialist with its "first aid" box. The atmosphere is relaxed and
clearly this is not a very dangerous area: the Marines are
armed because it is common practice when they get out in the
field. First, I made the base with my usual method, i.e. soil
made with Das, powders and natural stones. I wanted a stony
desert, as I had seen in pictures of the Afghan desert. Before
the Das dried I imprinted the footprints of the Cobra skids using
a tool with the same dimensions, as I could not press the
model directly on the base, it is too delicate! The Hummer
tracks were obtained in the same way: I rolled an axle on the
track portion on the outer part of the base. After a base of sand
acrylic, I applied a reddish brown oil wash, then I airbrushed
some matt transparent to isolate the soil from the next oil
drybrush, made in lighter colours. Many stones were brush
painted with Humbrols, trying to differentiate them from the
ground. The tufts of dried grass come from the Mininatur range,
which has simplified the life of modellers a lot.
64
For the HUMVEE I used the good quality Dragon kit, although with scheme. The colour was made freehand using the Iwata CMB,
some simplifications; the bulk of the detail work is about the cab, perfect for these precision jobs. After the basic painting, the
really empty in the original kit. I did not want to use an armoured vehicle was weathered with oil washes and dusted with Humbrols
vehicle with closed cabin and gun turret, such as those used in applied via airbrush and drybrush; some mud splashes are brush
combat areas, but a common old-style van with some made with Vallejo, also used to paint the interior and the loads
modifications, such as armoured doors and a gun mounted on the hung on the vehicle. The figure a Preiser one, comes from the box
bed. To reinforce the idea of an old vehicle, mainly used inside dedicated to modern American military and is of acceptable
bases or in non-hazardous situations, I left the old three-tone paint quality.
As I said in previous articles, between the figures will be

the figures are fundamental in balanced during painting.
the diorama setting. These are Marines used the Marpat
of different origins: the best of desert digital camouflage,
all are the two Reedoak pilots which clearly cannot be
which are 3D prints of real men replicated in 1:72; on a base
with the uniforms. Realism is coat of Vallejo Arena Chiara I
impressive, so that painting made little irregular spots,
even becomes difficult because trying to imitate the pattern of
of the extreme finesse of the the real camouflage and using
folds of the flying suits. Going two colours more intense than
downward a bit with quality reality, so that they stand out
level, we find the Zvezda on such small figures. To obtain
marine with sunglasses and shading, I used very diluted
cap, however still of great Vallejo Olive drab and Terra
quality, with well-defined Mate, applied in the shadowy
sculpture and good details, areas and in the most
easy to paint. The others are pronounced folds. The other
two Preiser marines and the characters, pilots and
technician, which is a resin specialist, are painted in the
copy of an Italeri soft plastic conventional way, with lights
figure; the difference in quality and shadows.
F I N A L
T H O U G H T S
Making my first helicopter was
really fun; although the use of so
many kits and accessories might
seem excessive, everything has
contributed to the final result,
allowing me to obtain an unusual
version of the Supercobra and
bring an old kit back to today's
standard. I was fascinated by
these aircraft, halfway between
flying planes and tanks; I think this
will not be the last!
65

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qxp_Layout 1 08/03/2018 15:02 Page 1

MEGAS TSONOS BUILDS THE AIRFIX 1:48 KIT

20 Bella Ballila part 3

26 Bf 110 G-4 Nachtjager

60 King Cobra part 2

Meng AIR Modeller is published Bimonthly by

The interior was painted in the

When I dry-fitted the hull sides to

Back to the hull topside and a hole was

One more issue concerning symmetry, is the subtle

The project concludes in the next issue

Hasegawa’s SH-3H gets super-detailed by JORDI LARIO

My represented model is an SH-3H, assigned to the HS-3

The first step in detailing the interior is to add the

Note the weathering to the floor and access

Moulded kit parts

As I’d decided to not fold the tail I found a little

The photoetch parts were

Hasegawa’s kit is still good but not up to the

The inner part is not

Alclad II ALC-111 was used for

The classic colours of the US Navy

From my references I noticed that the

The main blades and tail rotor were again

The weapons add a

Still working over the gloss finish I airbrushed a

With the weathering finished I could apply a

The finer brush work is

Eventually I had all the panels

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Expiry date Security Number

The Messerschmitt Bf 110 was originally developed as a heavy fighter or

build As mentioned, the fit of the

The surface detail is as fine as one could

I used the Eduard Brassin Cockpit

The usual drybrushing of lighter

All the control surfaces received special

The nose weapons were missing and I

In fact I had to build the whole weapons bay from

I also swapped the kit wheels with

The Fug 220 aerials of the

I used white glue to mount the

Another dash of colour is added by the distinctive copper tones of

The angled tail wheel and slight movement

The kit cockpit is well detailed but

The tail can be put in place at this stage,

The moulded detail of the

The superb ‘Master’ brass parts replaced the Pitot tube

In 1:32 the delta wing design is

Trunking to the compressor

Nose weights are a must to

Ready for paint... shape requires adjustment to

The front canopy is masked, painted and put in place.

Gunze / Mr. Hobby finishing

Thanks to Contact-resin for the upgrade set (ref CR

Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf109 G-6

Zvezda 1:72 YAK-130

Tamiya 1:48 SS-100

Italeri 1:72 KA-6D Intruder

Italeri 1:48 Ju 87 B-2/R-2 “Picchiatello”