Camera Stabilizer Plans Tools

Camera Mount Construction. Drill with metal 1/4” bit and 7/8” Ar
(2) Sheets of 3003 Aluminum .063 x6”x8” bor bit.
(1) Conduit Fitting Wrench
(1) 10-24 x1/2 Thumb screw Vise or Manual Hand Brake
(1) Knurled knob 10-24
(1) 10-24 x2” flat head screw All parts and fittings can be found
(1) JB Wield (Metal Epoxy) at Hardware stores, metal shops
(1) Foam Adhesive pad. “Foamies” and Craft stores.

Top Camera Plate Fig. C

Measure 1 inch from the Bottom Camera Plate
Fig. A
edge and draw a line
down the length of the Measure 1 1/8” from ea
sheet. edge and draw a line
down the length of the
Then draw a line down sheet.
7/8”
the center of the sheet.
Then Draw a line down
Next mark the center of the center an mark an X
Fig. B
the sheet and draw an X.
Then using the Top Ca
6” era Plate trace the first
Then measure over 1 1/4”
from both sides of the 1 1/8” from edge drilled marks on to the
center mark and place an bottom plate and drill 1/
X. holes as show in Fig.C

Then every 1 inch place

Fig. D
8” an X
Next using a Vise or
Next Drill a 1/4” hole at Brake bend the mark
every X. edges.

You will want the top

slide over the bottom
1” from edge easily.

Now, using the JB Wield (Metal Epoxy) Mix and apply to

the fitting threads and screw into the 7/8” hole. As shown in
Fig E. Tighten down with a wrench. Make sure the adjust-
ment screw is facing the opposite direction of the 3 holes.

Fig F. shows a piece of foam pad “Foamies” that hole have

been traced from the top plate and adhered to the top. Fig. F
Fig. E

Here is the finished top. It is affixed to the Bottom Plate using

Knurled knob for Fore and Aft minor adjustments.

Alternative methods (using a router or milling machine) to cre

ate long holes (1/4” single fluted router bit.) As in (Fig G) for
smaller adjustments in the bottom plate. Instead of drilled ho

Fig. G
 3 Axis Gimbaled Handle
(1) 1 1/2” PVC coupler or (Aluminum Pipe w/ 1/8” wall)
(1) 1/16”x9” Flat bar
(4) 1/4” I.D. Bronze Flange Bushings w/Bronze washers
(1) 3/4” I.D. 1 1/2” O.D Water Pump Bearing (Freeway Brand recommended)
(2) 3/4” I.D. Shaft Lock Collar
(2) 3/4” 1/4-20 screws
(1)1 1/2” 1/4-20 screw

Fig A Tools
Chop saw/ Miter Box saw w/ metal blade.
Drill or Drill Press w/1/4 bit and 3/8” bit.
JB Wield (Metal Epoxy)
Fig C
Start by boring a 1/4” hole
into the side of the coupler.
Fig B Fig. B

Make certain that it goes di-

rectly through the center of
the tube and not at an angle.
Fig C. GOOD BAD
Next, using your JB Wield.
Dab epoxy on to the outer
Bearing housing, so that it
will adhere to the tube. Then
press the bearing firmly in to
the tube. Make certain not to
Fig D get epoxy on the internal
parts of the bearings. Allow Fig. E
to 24 hours to dry. Fig D

To make the bracket. Cut down your Flat bar to 9”. Measure 3” in from each side and mark a line perpendicular to
the length as shown by the dotted lines in Fig.

Now measure 1/2” from the ends and 5/16 down. Next drill 3/8” holes in the ends and a 1/4” hole in the center as
shown below. Now bend 90 Degrees on the dotted lines as in Fig E.

Now take your screws and insert the 3/4” screws from the inside of the tube, so that the threads face out.

And the 1 1/2” screw on the bracket. Now insert the Bronze bearings. Fig. F Fig. F

Next cut a 7/8” tube down to 5” in

length for your handle.

Then drill a 3/8” hole through the

tube.

Next apply a foam bicycle grip.

And attach the fitting and nuts,

Keeping
 The simplest of all the parts to make is the Base.

Measure 1 1/2” inches from each edge and draw

lines the length of the sheet of aluminum. As
shown below.

Then measure 2 inches down from the top and

botom and drill two 1/4” holes.

Then measure the center an drill a 7/8” hole.

Next Bend the sheet in a vise or brake on the

dotted lines.

Now using JB Wield, dab a little epoxy on to the threads and attach as
shown to the base.

Ad the thumb screw and allow 24 hours to dry.

Next feed two 2” x 1/4”-20 bolts through the bottom and attach nuts.

Thanks it!

Paint if desired!

To Operate attach camera using a 1/2” x1/4” thumb screw and a free spinning nut to take up space and keep the
screw in place or a male Knurled knob can be added.

The object is to make the position of the 3 axis gimbal the center of gravity. You can do this by adjusting the cam-
era plate back and forth and by adding or removing counter weights (3/8” ZINC Washers) on the base.

Do not over weight the base. You don’t want it to be to bottom heavy. This will cause It to swing like a pendulum
on a clock. You want it to just barely be bottom heavy to keep it from rolling over.

Some practice will be needed.

Now you can add professional shots to your next production.