SWEDISH ENVIRONMENTAL VERSION 3.

1 DATE 2007-11-16
MANAGEMENT COUNCIL

PROCUREMENT TEXTILES AND LEATHER

CRITERIA

SCOPE TEXTILES AND LEATHER FOR WORKING CLOTHES, FURNISHINGS,

ETC.

To ensure that you are using the latest version of this document, visit www.msr.se/kriterier/textil. More
information on the Environmental Management Council's procurement criteria is also available there.
Questions concerning this document can be answered by the Environmental Management Council help desk:
helpdesk@msr.se

THE SWEDISH ENVIRONMENTAL

MANAGEMENT COUNCIL'S
PROCUREMENT CRITERIA FOR
TEXTILES AND LEATHER
SWEDISH ENVIRONMENTAL VERSION 3.1 DATE 2007-11-16
MANAGEMENT COUNCIL

PROCUREMENT CRITERIA TEXTILES AND LEATHER

INTRODUCTION
Not much production and trade is as international as the textile trade. From fibre cultivation in
one country, spinning in another and weaving or knitting in a third, the material can then be
sent on to yet another country to be prepared, and to still another for making into garments. The
product can then be exported for sale somewhere else in the world. This means that a range of
different branches of industry are involved; such as cotton cultivation, sheep rearing,
preparation and transportation - but also forestry, oil and natural gas extraction and the
chemical industry. All of these activities affect the environment in different ways and to
varying extents.
One of the elements with the most environmental impact is the use of chemicals in the
production of fibre and textiles.

SCOPE
These criteria are intended for the purchase of clothing (work clothing, etc.), shoes,
leather goods, bed textiles, furniture and fitting textiles, materials for handicrafts,
hobbies, etc. Textile toys are not covered by these criteria.

THIS IS HOW THE CRITERIA IN THE DOCUMENT ARE

USED
The criteria in this document were developed after broad consultation with various groups and
with a unified perspective from the environmental point of view. The purpose is to assist
procurement organisations in imposing relevant environmental requirements for this type of
product. The document is not intended to be used as a ready-made attachment that can be sent
out together with requests for proposals. Instead, use the criterion or the criteria/levels that suit
your requirements and your goals. An evaluation criterion can possibly be made into a
mandatory requirement or vice versa, if this is desirable (however, be aware of the effects this
can have on the market). Users must adapt the layout and text, etc. to their own formats and
delete those portions of the document that are not relevant for inclusion in requests for
proposals. It is also important to indicate how the tenderer can respond to the criteria and what
verification (evidence) should be submitted. Use a separate response form where appropriate.

ASSOCIATED DOCUMENTS
The following document can be obtained at www.msr.se/kriterier/textil
Background information

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PROCUREMENT CRITERIA TEXTILES AND LEATHER

CONTENTS
Introduction.................................................................................................................................2
Scope...........................................................................................................................................2
This is how the criteria in the document are used........................................................................2
Associated documents.................................................................................................................2
Mandatory supplier requirements................................................................................................4
Mandatory product requirements.................................................................................................4
Verification of requirements and criteria (A – B)........................................................................6
Application instructions and information regarding the criteria..................................................8
Discussion of the criteria.............................................................................................................9
Coming criteria..........................................................................................................................14
Version history..........................................................................................................................14

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PROCUREMENT CRITERIA TEXTILES AND LEATHER

MANDATORY SUPPLIER REQUIREMENTS

The proposal shall state that the responder meets all requirements in part A in order for the
proposal to be accepted.

A.1. PRODUCER'S RESPONSIBILITY FOR PACKAGING

The proposal shall state that the responder meets all requirements for manufacturer's
responsibility for packaging under the directive (SFS 2006:1273 with latest revision)1. The
manufacturer's responsibility for the product offered can be fulfilled if the responder or his
supplier earlier in the chain is affiliated to the REPA register or equivalent, or by the responder
having his own system2.

A.2. QUALITY CONTROL

The proposal must indicate that the responder has methods/procedures for quality control which
are used to be able to ensure that specified requirements and criteria in the invitation to tender
are met over any contract period.

MANDATORY PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

The proposal shall show that the responder meets all requirements in part B, level 1 or level 2,
in order for the proposal to be acceptable.

LEVEL 1: BASIC REQUIREMENTS

The basic requirements, level 1, are based on ÖkoTex and Textilimportörernas kemikalieguide.
These consist of mandatory requirements (Must requirements) and include environmental
requirements for the finished product.

A.3. LEVEL 1: MANDATORY PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

Requirements for chemicals (banned or restricted) which have actively been added (additives3)
to the proposed product/item.
The proposal must indicate that the products meet the following:

ORGANIC COMPOUNDS
azo dyes which may be split to form banned arylamines according to 2003/3/EC, (max. content
30 mg/kg )

1
Most recent amendment by directive 2004/12/EG.
2
This requirement applies to the producer according to legislation, i.e. the manufacturer, Swedish
importer or seller of packaging or an item contained in such packaging.
3
Additives = chemical substances added to the product to give it a specific property

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dispersion dyes which are classified as allergenic (R43) (max. 0 mg/kg as an additive for
textiles designed for children under 3, max, content 0.1% by weight, max. 100 mg/kg as an
additive for other textiles, max. content 0.1% by weight)
brominated flame retardants4: PBB, pentaBDE, octaBDE, decaBDE, TRIS, TEPA according to
76/769/EC, (max. 0 mg/kg as additive, max. content 0.1% by weight)
organic tin compounds (max. 0 mg/kg as additive, max. content 0.5 mg/kg)
pentachlorophenol plus 2,3,5,6-tetrachlorophenol and its salts, (max. content 0.5 mg/kg)
softeners of category phthalates5: DEHP, DBP, BBP (ref: 76/769/EC) (max. content 0.1% by
weight)

HEAVY METALS
Lead (max. content 0.5 mg/kg)
Cadmium according to 76/769/EC, (max. content 0.5 mg/kg)

OTHER METALS
nickel according to 2004/96/EC, (max. content 0.5 ug/cm2/week)
chromium (VI), (max. content 0.5 mg/kg)

FORMALDEHYDE
Emission of formaldehyde from finished textiles must not exceed:
20 mg/kg for textiles worn close to the skin and designed for children (<24 months)
100 mg/kg for textiles worn close to the skin
300 mg/kg for other textiles

LEVEL 2: HIGHER REQUIREMENTS

The higher requirements, level 2, consist of mandatory requirements (Must requirements)
which go further than level 1. These are based on environmental labelling criteria, the Swan/EU
Flower, Bra Miljöval. They include environmental requirements for manufacturing processes
(fibre production) as well as the finished product.

A.4. LEVEL 2: MANDATORY PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

(MUST REQUIREMENTS)
The product must meet at least one of the criteria specified below:

4
The flameproofing agents are:
PBB (polybrominated biphenyls, includes 209 variants, known as congenes)
pentaBDE (pentabromodiphenylether) CAS no. 32534-81-9
octaBDE (octabromodiphenylether) CAS no. 32536-52-0
decaBDE (decabromodiphenylether) CAS no. 1163-19-5
TRIS Tris(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate, CAS no. 126-72-7
TEPA Tris(1-aziridinyl) phosphone oxide, CAS no. 545-55-1
5
Phthalates concern: DEHP (CAS no. 117-81-7), DBP (CAS no. 84-74-2), BBP (CAS no. 85-68-7)

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The Swan Nordic Environmental Label; environmental labelling of textiles (valid version at
time of submission of proposal): section 1 (1.3 – 1.7) on environmental requirements and
section 4 on testing institutes. The criteria can be found at www.svanen.nu
The EU Flower; criteria for allocation of the EU's environmental label to textile products (the
Commission's decision 371/2002, annex). These criteria can be downloaded from
www.blomman.nu
The EU Flower; criteria for allocation of the EU's environmental label to shoes (the
Commission's decision 179/1999, annex). These criteria can be downloaded from
www.blomman.nu
Bra Miljöval; "Bra fibrer/Bra beredning" (version valid at time of submission of proposal):
sections B, C, D. These criteria are available at www.snf.se/bmv/
Ecological products according to EU ordinance 2092/91/EEC for textiles or according to
IFOAM6 Basic Standards. These criteria can be found at www.europa.eu.int/eur-lex/ or
www.ifoam.org.

VERIFICATION OF REQUIREMENTS AND CRITERIA (A – B)

Verifications, that is, proof that the requirements and criteria imposed are satisfied, are required
to be submitted with the proposal, but may also be requested in a follow-up.
Verification/certification can be prepared at various levels and must be traceable to the
products being procured. The safest and most reliable are third-party verifications and it is
possible to request such verifications from proposers/suppliers. Otherwise a self-declaration or
a company certification, for example, may be sufficient. The market analysis should contain an
investigation of what types of verifications are most used in the business area in question.
A verification can be a third-party verification, for example, environmental labeling in
conformance with ISO 14024, certification in conformance with the ISO 14001 environmental
management system or EPD in conformance with ISO 14025. Other examples of verifications
are second-party verifications or self-declarations from a quality or monitoring system, supply
contract, etc., declarations in conformity with ISO 14021 or the equivalent forms of
verification.

SUGGESTIONS FOR VERIFICATION FOR A: MANDATORY

REQUIREMENTS FOR THE SUPPLIER

A.1 VERIFICATION
Affiliation certificate to REPA register and/or Swedish glass recycling or description of own
system for manufacturer's responsibility. To assess whether an individual system for
manufacturer's responsibility is acceptable, see Waste Council criteria for suitable collection
systems, Appendix 6 to Report 5648 on the Swedish Nature Protection Council website:
http://www.naturvardsverket.se/Documents/publikationer/620-5648-4.pdf

A.2 VERIFICATION
The proposer may demonstrate that he is meeting the quality control requirement by - for
example - showing that he holds accreditation to:

6
IFOAM = International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movement

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ISO 9001
FR 2000
ISO 14001 or EMAS
Or has a separately documented system for quality control and/or for environmental
management of products covered by the purchase

SUGGESTIONS FOR VERIFICATION FOR B: MANDATORY

REQUIREMENTS ON GOODS/SERVICES

B.1 LEVEL 1 VERIFICATION

The proposer can demonstrate that the requirements as outlined above are met by - for example
- presenting:
a certificate for Öko-Tex Standard 100 version 1-2005 or later7
licence for Bra Miljöval "Bra beredning", 1996 or later
TEKO's environmental product declaration, May 2000 or later8 (approved check)
Procurement terms/supply agreement with requirements to follow the recommended
procurement terms shown in Textilimportörernas kemikalieguide9
or otherwise verifying that the requirements are met

B.2 LEVEL 2 VERIFICATION

licence for the Swan Nordic environmental label
licence for the EU Flower 1999/178/EC or 2002/371/EC
licence for the EU Flower 1999/179/EC
licence for Bra Miljöval "Bra fibrer och bra beredning"
Öko-Tex standard 1000 version 1 – 2005 or later10,11
Certificate for KRAV, EU ecological or one of IFOAM's accredited bodies
or otherwise verifying in an equivalent manner that the requirements are met

7
The criteria can be found at www.oeko-tex.com
8
Revision of the TEKO environmental product declaration is in progress (Feb 2006)
9
Guide to buying terms for the chemical content of textile, clothing, leather goods and shoes,
Textilimportörerna, 2003.
10
The criteria can be found at www.oeko-tex.com
11
Öko-Tex standard 1000 essentially covers the criteria of the EU Flower, apart from a couple of details:
the requirements regarding pesticides in fibre production differ slightly, which may be verified separately
if so required.

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APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS AND INFORMATION

REGARDING THE CRITERIA

MANDATORY SUPPLIER REQUIREMENTS

These suggestions for requirements are associated with the technical ability and capacity that
the bidder must have in order to be able to carry out the contract with the environmental
requirements that are suggested in this document and to meet relevant environmental
legislation.

MANDATORY PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

LEVELS
The criteria are divided into 2 levels: the higher the level, the higher the environmental
performance. The procuring organisation itself decides the products or parts of the range for
which these levels are to be applied. See information in the background document regarding the
import of the various levels.

Level 1
The basic requirements, level 1 are based on Öko-Tex and Textilimportörernas
kemikalieguide, which primarily means environmental requirements relating to what is
measurable in the finished textile. These help to ensure better environmental properties
within a broad product range.
Regarding flameproofing agents: when procuring products with stringent fire
protection requirements, manufacturers may find alternatives to flameproofing agents
other than those listed in 76/769/EC, as well as other halogenated flameproofing
agents. Subsequent research/market analysis should be carried out before the
requirements are set.

Level 2
The higher requirements, level 2, are based on environmental label criteria (the
Swan/the EU Flower and Bra Miljöval), which means environmental requirements
regarding both fibre production and the process as far as the finished product. These
help to further enhance environmental properties within a narrower product range.
Level 1 can be used on the entire range. For some products, it is possible to refer to the
higher requirements in level 2 and the procuring authority itself selects the products or
parts of the range for which this level is to be applied.
Before making a purchase, always carry out an assessment of which targets and criteria exist
within the relevant municipality, county council or authority to add and use the higher
requirements in level 2. One recommendation is that you also carry out a thorough market
analysis of supplies among potential suppliers.
Level 2 products can be purchased in different ways or as a combination of the various
alternatives:
Alternative 1: As specified requirements for certain products stated in the item specification.

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Alternative 2: As an alternative/complement to the rest of the range. However, what is

demanded should be included in the item specification or in a separate appendix.
Procuring products which meet criteria for environmental labelling also meets the criteria
included in level 1.

FOLLOW-UP
Follow-up on completed contracts is important in order to ensure that the products meet the
requirements imposed during the period of the contract. Follow-up can be done by requesting
various forms of verification or by monitoring the products delivered.

DISCUSSION OF THE CRITERIA

A.1 PRODUCER RESPONSIBILITY FOR PACKAGING

There have been regulations concerning producer responsibility for packaging since 1 October
1994. The Swedish rules are based upon common EU directives. All companies that
manufacture, sell or import packaging or packaged goods are responsible for the packaging
being collected and recycled. This responsibility is usually met by companies associating
themselves with the materials companies that industry has formed. However, knowledge
concerning this responsibility is lacking, so that it can be well to draw attention to this in a
procurement documentation. For more information concerning manufacturer's packaging
responsibility, see www.repa.se

A.2 QUALITY CONTROL

Quality control at the premises of a supplier of textile and leather goods aims to ensure good
practical handling and product quality. The methods applied can also contribute to assessing
whether a supplier has sufficient capacity and suitability for performing a certain procurement
contract, i.e. an undertaking to fulfil all conditions imposed by a procuring authority. Through
quality control, the supplier can show that it is able to apply procedures to ensure that the
products supplied meet the legal, environmental and other property requirements imposed by
the procuring authority. The system applied needs to contain instructions or routines for this.
The quality management system in this context is usually more relevant than the environmental
management system.

B.1 LEVEL 1: MANDATORY PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

ORGANIC COMPOUNDS

Azo dyes
Azo dyes are the clearly dominant group of textile dyes on the market. A smaller group of these
azo dyes can be split reductively into arylamines which are currently prohibited. Arylamines
are decomposition products from azo dyes (the best known is benzidine). All arylamines
described in the EU directive are potentially carcinogenic, and 4 of these are regarded as
human-carcinogens.

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This small group of azo dyes may occur in the finished textile/garment, and when you wear it
you may be exposed to them when you wear garments or sleep in such garments. The risk is
likely to increase if the wearer perspires. The textile industry is working to reduce their
prevalence, and an EU standard on which azo dyes exist has been available since 2002. An EU
directive forbids contents in excess of 30 mg/kg of textile in various textile products. Swedish
conditions in KIFS 1998:8 chap 10, 11a,b,c§.

Dispersion dyes which are classified as allergenic

A group of dyes which are designed to dye polyester and polyamide, known as dispersion dyes.
They are allergenic on contact with the skin and are included in a voluntary classification and
phaseout according to Öko-Tex standard 100, among other things.

Brominated/halogenated flameproofing agents

Brominated flameproofing agents (there are 70 or so commercially available around the world)
and chloroparaffins are suspected to be able to harm reproduction, the nervous system and
immune defences, and are enriched in the food chain. They are similar to the environmental
toxins PCB and DDT. According to EU Directive 76/769/EEC ("limitation directive"), today it
is prohibited to use and market certain flameproofing agents (TRIS, TEPA, PBB) in clothing
and bedding which comes into contact with skin. Through a revision to this EU directive, this is
not now permitted with a further two flameproofing agents, octaBDE and pentaBDE (see KIFS
1998:8 10 chap 4§, 4a§)
The Swedish textile industry stopped using all brominated flameproofing agents some years
ago, and there is no production in Sweden, but it does occur in imported goods.
When working on these criteria for textiles, discussions took place to see whether more/all
flameproofing agents should not be allowed to occur. However, this resulted in a "ban" only on
certain flameproofing agents, for a number of reasons.
Hexabromocyclododecane (HBCDD) is not included in the requirements. There is not much
data on HBCDD, this is a stable substance and is listed for phaseout in the water directive,
among other things.
Decabromodiphenylether (decaBDE). According to the KemI report "Decabromodiphenylether
- documentation for a national ban", report no. 5/04, this compound is used in textile
applications. It appears that its greatest application is in the plastics and electronics industries,
but as it may also occur in the textile industry, it is appropriate to included it as a requirement
in the criteria.
Tetrabromobisphenyl-A (TBBP-A). Irrelevant, this substance is not used in textiles, mostly in
IT products
However, the Swedish Chemicals Agency has investigated the issue of a national ban on
decaBDE and has been tasked with reviewing legislation on substances such as HBCDD.
The Swedish Environmental Management Council is monitoring developments and will be
dealing again with the issue of what flameproofing should be covered by the criteria at the time
of the next review.
Various nitrogen/phosphor compounds are used as alternatives to brominated substances. For
example, cotton can be given washproof flameproofing by treating it with organic phosphorus
compounds (e.g. "Pyrovatex" and "Proban"), and polyesters can have flameproofing "built
into" the fibre (e.g. "fosfolan", which is included in Trevira CS). There are also non-flammable
materials such as Aramid (Kevlar, Nomex) which meet flameproofing requirements without

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chemical treatment. However, there is often less research into the environmental and health
aspects of substances which replace brominated preparations.
Stuffed furniture is often flameproofed using SMHR (Combustion Modified High Resistant)
foam, which contains melamine instead of other types of flameproofing.
Most synthetic fibres are easily combustible but usually extinguish quickly and melt. Cotton
however is difficult to ignite but on average burns for longer and more completely. The need
for flame protection is therefore not as great for synthetic material as for cotton. In principle
wool is non-flammable - can pass the burning cigarette test without starting to burn - but extra
flameproofing is added in certain cases. Linen burns in approximately the same way as cotton
(if not even more effectively). However, linen is not often flameproofed as this destroys the
structure and impairs the tear and wear strength.
By consciously preventing fire risk and adapting textiles and furniture, the need for
flameproofing textiles can be reduced. A flameproofed product is not non-flammable, but just
difficult to ignite. The smoke can be more toxic and cause more damage than an untreated
product.
What fireproofing rules apply to textiles12?
In offices, day nurseries, classrooms, small meeting rooms, etc. no flameproofing of textiles,
stuffed furniture and other loose fittings is required (often there is good control in such rooms).
Examples of premises where stringent requirement are set for loose fittings are care premises,
restaurants, large meeting rooms, hotels, etc.
Flameproofing is required in corridors and public areas (escape routes), particularly for hanging
textiles. Avoid stuffed furniture and large hanging textiles. Escape routes must not be blocked.

ORGANIC TIN COMPOUNDS

Organic tin compounds are deemed to be environmentally hazardous and very toxic to water
organisms (R51). They are included in the KemI Restricted Substances Database13.
Organic tin compounds may occur as antibacterial additives. According to the EU's biocide
directive (98/8/EC), 2000, joint rules on which biocides are to be permitted in chemical
products and other products are being introduced.

PENTACHLOROPHENOL PLUS 2,3,5,6-TETRACHLOROPHENOL AND ITS SALTS

To protect certain textiles against rot and mould, there are various forms of biocide,
antimicrobial treatment, e.g. chlorophenols (such as pentachlorophenol, PCP) or organic tin
compounds.
PCP is toxic and classified as environmentally hazardous. PCP helps to form dioxins when
incinerated. Restrictions on the use of PCP can be found in EU directive 76/769/EEC.

SOFTENERS
Phthalates are a group of organic substances with different areas of application and properties.
Some phthalates have undergone risk assessment within the EU. DEHP (CAS 117-81-7) has
been deemed to be harmful to health (toxic for reproduction), DBP (CAS 84-74-2) is classified
as environmentally hazardous and harmful to health (toxic for reproduction). These are now
included in the EU's CMR14 list.
12
Source: Emergency Services
13
See apps.kemi.se/begransningsdatabas/default.cfm
14
CMR = Carcinogenic, Mutagenic and Teratogenic

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For BBP (CAS 85-68-7) there is no classification as yet.

Despite the supply of phthalates to the environment from textiles being low in relation to other
sources, the Chemicals Inspectorate considers that phthalates, mainly DEHP, should be avoided
in textiles.
It should be noted that DEHP, DBO and BBP are provisionally prohibited in the EU according
to the decision from summer 200515 for contents > 0.1 w% in children's articles and toys for
children under the age of 3. More phthalates are covered by the ban in respect of toys "designed
to be placed in the mouth".
Phthalates which must not be present according to the EKU criteria may be substituted with
DINP and DIDP, among others.

HEAVY METALS

Lead and cadmium

Cadmium is considered environmentally hazardous and harmful to health (can cause kidney
damage). Cadmium can occur as an additive in plastics, as a stabiliser. Cadmium must no
longer be used as a dye according to ordinance 1998:941.
Exposure to lead can cause several adverse effects on health, including damage to the kidneys,
nervous system and foetus, and is stored mainly in bone tissue. Lead is very durable and use
can contribute to increased concentrations in the environment.
Mercury and arsenic can also occur as contaminants in textiles, but this is very unusual. This
probably originates from biocides or defoliation agents in cultivation. The EKU criteria do not
cover these substances.

OTHER METALS

Nickel and chromium

Accessories made from nickel which come into direct or long-term contact with the skin (e.g.
rivet buttons, hooks, zips and metal tags used in clothes) can cause allergies. Nickel is one of
the most common substances which can cause contact allergies. For piercing jewellery and the
like, the max. content is 0.2 ug/cm2/week. Swedish regulation on nickel in KIFS 1998:8 10
section 9§.
Hexavalent chromium occurs in connection with the preparation of textiles. Chromium VI is
classified as allergenic and carcinogenic, and is considered toxic and environmentally harmful.
Hexavalent chromium should not occur in textiles. Trivalent chromium, which occurs in textile
dyes, is considered to be non-hazardous and is used widely today. The service life of textiles
can be extended considerably with this.
When dying wool, silk and leather, chromium salts are often used for pre- and post-treatment of
the dyes.

FORMALDEHYDE
Formaldehyde is a substance which has no serious impact on the environment, but it can cause
primarily allergic reactions in humans. This substance has recently (2004) also been classified
as carcinogenic to humans by the IARC (International Agency for Research on Cancer): see

15
22nd addition to Directive 76/769/EEG

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also KIFS 2005:5, www.kemi.se. Formaldehyde is a residual product which occurs in

connection with what is known as Appretur treatment with resin as a cross-binder of textiles.
Shrinkproofing of cellulose-based textiles is one example of such treatments. Formaldehyde
can also be added as a preservative in connection with printing, for example, but this is rarer.
Formaldehyde can easily pass between textiles hanging in contact with one another. There is no
collective EU legislation16 on limits for formaldehyde in textiles and leather.

B.2 LEVEL 2: MANDATORY PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS (MUST

REQUIREMENTS)

GENERAL INFORMATION ON ENVIRONMENTAL LABEL CRITERIA

The various environmental label systems currently in existence aim to stimulate development
towards more environmentally friendly products and to promote the top products on the market
(as a rule 25-30 % of the market). The environmental label is a tool to allow companies to
market environmentally friendly products and to help consumers to select products.
Criteria for environmental labelling can be used in public procurement, as part of the technical
specification of a product or as an assessment criterion. This is indicated specifically in both the
procurement directives and in the Swedish Act on Public Procurement (LOU). The EU Flower,
which is a (voluntary) EU ordinance, directly applicable and binding for the member states, and
the criteria of which have been produced to work on the internal market, holds a special
position.
Environmental labelling criteria produced in accordance with the ISO 14024 standard or
equivalent mean that these have undergone quality control and are based on scientific grounds.
Note: Licences can never be demanded for a specific label! Other types of verification (test
reports, certificates from manufacturers, etc.) must be approved by a procuring authority. It is
possible only to use criteria directly related to the product. Therefore, some of the criteria in an
environmental label have to be ruled out, i.e. not be included in the procurement specification.
This may apply to everything from criteria for marketing of the label, environmental
management and social aspects (the legal position regarding social aspects is unclear) to how
auditors are to be appointed. In other words, the criteria need to be analysed so that they do not
breach the proportionality principle or be linked too poorly to the object of the procurement! As
far as the environmental label systems specified above are concerned, these have been assessed
and found not to involve any dubious points.
The Swan: The criteria cover manufacture, the finished product and certain social aspects. Plant
fibres (cotton, linen, etc.) must be cultivated ecologically or be in the changeover phase to
ecological cultivation, and wool must not contain any residues of certain biocodes which are
considered to be particularly harmful to the environment. During preparation, there are
requirements for the absence of or max. content of certain substances harmful to health and the
environment and emissions of oxygen-consuming substances to water. The criteria also cover
the finished product and are largely comparable with Öko-Tex. In addition, the product must
meet certain quality requirements.
The EU Flower: The aim of the Flower is to help ensure less consumption impacting on the
environment within the EU by means of a voluntary environmental label. The Flower is

16
This criterion is based on legislation in France, "Regulation on Hazardous Chemicals [97/0141/F]" and
Finland, "Dekret 210/1988". Legislation in the Netherlands specifies 120 mg/kg for all products and
Japan (LAW 112) specifies a product-specific quantity between 20-300 mg/kg. Test according to method
standard SS EN ISO 14184-1.

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MANAGEMENT COUNCIL

PROCUREMENT CRITERIA

harmonised to a great extent with the Swan and works in more or less the same way. However,
one difference is that the Swan also states that plant fibre must be cultivated ecologically.
Bra Miljöval: The criteria are intended for essentially all kinds of textiles, both artificial and
natural fibres, and for the entire production chain from the production of fibre to the finished
garment.
The criteria are divided into two levels. The lower level, rank B, is known as "Bra beredning".
If the fibres included also originate from environmentally friendly production, the product is
classified as rank A, "Bra fibrer and bra beredning". Bra Miljöval requires natural fibres
cultivated entirely ecologically, e.g. cotton. These criteria are primarily intended for everyday
clothing and home textiles.

COMING CRITERIA
The following criteria will be evaluated and discussed in conjunction with the next revision of
the environmental requirement specifications.

PRODUCTION OF COTTON TEXTILE

Incentive: One of the greatest adverse environmental impacts of textiles is the cultivation of
cotton fibre where the use of chemicals (among other things) is high. Ecologically cultivated
cotton is still not very widespread on the world market, and other systems for more controlled
production - e.g. Integrated Pest Management - are being developed.

VERSION HISTORY

VERSION 1.0 2003

Original version.

VERSION 2.0 2003-03-04

Overhaul in connection with the Swedish Environmental Management Council's takeover of
the EKU instrument.

VERSION 3.0 2006-03-07

Revision, levels introduced.

VERSION 3.1 2007-11-16

Information on REACH was added. New layout.

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