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Kornati 濱海國家公園之宣傳海報
同樣是石灰岩地貌之河谷與激流
湍急之小瀑布
導遊推薦木橋尾端之瀑布最佳拍攝點
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這就好比是水庫,當然有豐富之喀斯特地形地貌景觀
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離開科爾卡 Krka National Park, 繼續沿著亞德里亞海岸前行,沿路如 Drnis 路標經常有考古博物館。 9
進入克羅埃西亞之 Sibenik
Sibenik 之觀光景點與歷史 :
Venetian rule left Šibenik with four beautiful fortresses: St. Michael, St. John, Šubićaevac and St. Nicholas. Old part of the town, full of churches,
old noblemen palaces and typical Dalmatian stone houses centuries old is very interesting. Town walls are also well preserved. One of the most
interesting sights is medieval monastery garden.
1. Katedrala sv. Jakova (Cathedral of St. James or Cathedral of St. Jacob), Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. 9:30-18:30. This basilica is
considered as one of the major attraction in the city. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Construction started in 1431, and it was not
finished until 1536 due to Turkish wars. Several successive architects built it completely in stone in the 15th and 16th centuries, both in
Gothic and in Renaissance style. The interlocking stone slabs of the Cathedral's roof were damaged when the city was shelled by Serbian
forces in 1991. The damage has since been repaired. It has a beautiful baptistery worth seeing it, and the curiosity is it has been built with
stone only, without any kind of binder. Another one is 72 human heads carved in stone on the external part which belong to unknown
individuals, passers-by, sailors, merchants and peasants who posed as the cathedral was being built. Statues of Adam and Eve are also
curious; Adam is covering his breasts, and Eve is covering not her breasts, but her stomach. 15 kn.
2. Gradska vijećnica (Old city hall). Formerly known as Plathei Communis, it was built from 1533-1536.
3. Crkva sv. Barbare (Church of Saint Barbara). A beautiful small church dating from the 15th century with an asymmetric facade with a
clock. Now it houses the Muzej crkvene umjetnosti (Museum of Church Art).
4. Biskupska palača (Bishops Palace). (1439-1441) 10
5. Kneževa palača (Dukes Palace).
6. Četiri bunara (4 draw-wells), Palih omladinaca 2 (up the steps from the Cathedral square for the square and down the steps enter the
former reservoir), It is an underground complex of water reservoirs, built in the 15th century for city's water supply. Now it's a multimedia
exhibition center Bunari - Tajne Šibenika ("Bunari - Secrets of Sibenik"). The reservoirs are now dry and decorated as a museum/gallery
and a cafe. It has 7 sections: (Šibenik's treasure, food and drink, shipwrecks around Šibenik, persons from the past). Concerts and
stand-up comedy shows often take place at the cafe. Very interesting spot.
7. Crkva i smostan sv. Frane (Church and monastery of St. Francis), Trg Nikole Tomaszea 1 (at the eastern edge of the old town). Dating
from the 16th century.
8. Perivoj Roberta Visianija (Park of Roberto de Visiani). A nicely decorated little park with fountains dedicated to Roberto de Visiani –
botanist, poet and philosopher who was born in Šibenik.
9. Srednjovjekovni vrt sv.Lovre (Medieval garden of the monastery St. Laurence), Sv. Lovre (take the Don Krste Stošića street, then 6th turn
right), Extremely rare medieval monastery garden, restaurated in 2007 by Dragutin Kiš, who won a millenium Flora award in Japan in
2000. Won the first prize at school gardens contest in Croatia. It contains various plants, especially those used in pharmacy and as spices.
It has a quiet cafe, where you can quietly enjoy the view to the Šibenik's old part and the sea, the atmosphere and the odor.
10. Tvrđava sv. Mihovila (St. Michael's fortress). Ruins of the 13th century now converted into a summer stage. It's an empty shell inside, but
views onto surrounding city and the bay are quite promising.
門上之彈孔, 則是內戰遺留之痕跡
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畫面下方教堂中眉由 71 個形態各異的男人、女人、孩子臉裝飾的浮雕,展現了哥德與文藝復興藝術的成功融合。
壁龕內則是聖徒, 如面海的聖馬可、面內之聖米薛爾及聖雅各
大殿內之裝飾
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Peter Krešimir IV, called the Great (died 1075), 在拜占庭允諾下,於 1059~74 年成為 Croatia and Dalmatia 之郡王,稱之為 The
Kresimirovic branch of the House of Trpimirovic。這也是克羅埃西亞的民族英雄與 Sibenik 之奠基者;故 Sibenik 也被稱為»the
Krešimir’s City« (Krešimirov grad).。近年於海濱區 19 世紀之 Robert Visaini Parke 老植物園內豎立一座現代風格之雕塑以茲紀念。
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想必這側門是因戰火損毀後而進行簡易復原
近看底座雕工精美的之獅子
聖羅倫斯主教座堂 Cathedral of St Lawrence, Trogir 正門門巖之石雕與昨天拜訪之聖雅各伯主教座堂 St James Cathedral, Sibenik 42
幾乎纍同。
三聯柱內側精美之浮雕工藝
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正殿 主祭壇之十字架
主祭壇之耶蘇受洗浮雕 44
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信徒歷年奉獻之聖物與禮器 ( 寶物展示室 )
本土化之斯拉夫語聖經
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主教之權杖
鑲嵌銀錠之編織品
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唱詩班
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敬奉的聖母與子像波蘭顯神蹟之黑色瑪丹娜相似
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: 文藝復興風格,置放 St. Ivan Orsin 主教靈柩之禮拜堂 The Chapel of the Blessed Ivan Orsin
這位 Ivan Orsin 主教何許人也 ? 話說中世紀早期,拜占庭之勢力日微,此城位於大陸與 Ciovo 島間之特羅吉爾 Trogir 受到
外族之威脅日增,因早先 Salona 就被 Avars 與斯拉夫人之侵略。因此自七世紀克羅埃西亞之王子就在不遠之 Biaci 籌建皈
依羅馬天主教之 St Martha 教堂與古堡;逐漸成為居民的信仰中心。814 年之 Carlemagne 併吞後,Dalmatian 區域包括特羅吉
爾歸屬於日耳曼之法蘭克 Frankish 統治。1064 年之詔書設置 Sr. Doimus 修道院,特羅吉爾國王也享受到騎士團之保護與特
權。1111 年藉由 Ivan Orsini 主教之外交斡旋,特羅吉爾敞開大門歸順匈牙利之國王 Koloman,成為位於 Biograd na moru 克羅
埃西亞之國王。避免了戰火之坡及與滅亡的悲劇。
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靈柩前後護佑之兩位天使
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於壁龕之聖哲隨侍在側
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建於 14 世紀的露臺 (即鄂圖曼帝國建築之特色之一: 可稱為敞廊) Toranj Gradskog Sata & Gradska Loza,牆上的浮雕是 1471
年 Nilola Firentinac 的作品,刻畫著法官審判的場景,當年此地是法庭所在地,中間空白處原本刻有威尼斯飛獅,在墨索里
尼進攻此地時,居民奮怒的將它去除。 61
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大公宅邸
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外港停泊著大型遊輪
首先映入眼簾之濱海區舊城區之皇宮外牆 地陪介紹這原本為戴克裡先退位後的皇宮歷史
回顧歷史 : 古羅馬帝國自屋大維建立元首制之後,羅馬的統治機構開始由共和制向專制君主制轉變,而建立統一之戰將
戴克裡先則是這體制的最後完成者。在他統治之下,元老院實際權力被剝奪,完全成了榮譽的擺設。他將元首的稱號改
為多米努斯(意為主人),成為羅馬第一位名實相符的皇帝( 正因為如此,戴克裡先之前的羅馬帝國最高統治者稱為元首
princeps,戴克裡先及其以後的稱為皇帝 dominus )。他在小亞細亞(今天的土耳其)尼科佩多市建立新都;與 Mausximin、
Galerius、Constantius 施行四帝共治之分權制度,戴克里先和 Mausximin 為共治皇帝,分享奧古斯都的頭銜、Galerius 和 Constantius
是他們的繼承人,分享凱撒的頭銜,但戴克里先仍以「君主」的地位握有最高權力。他亦將波斯專制國家的禮節移植到
自己的宮廷中,充分享受皇帝的威嚴,並利用眾神之父朱庇神 Jupiter 之子來神化自己。於 303 年頒佈敕令,禁止基督徒舉
行宗教儀式,將基督徒排除出軍隊和官吏,搗毀基督教教堂,沒收基督教會的財產,部分頑固的基督徒被處死。這是在
歐洲的基督教發展史上受到的最大一次迫害。313 年君士坦丁和李錫尼在米蘭共同發表《米蘭敕令》
,規定無償歸還基督
教徒的集會場所以及教會財產。從此以後,羅馬帝國的統治者改變了對基督教的政策,392 年,基督教最終成為羅馬帝國
的國教。在經濟上設立金本位制之貨幣( 每枚金幣為 1/60 磅, 約 5.45 g )。
舊城區皇宮聳立於北邊"金門" 有位以斯拉夫語取代拉丁語聖經的名樞機主教 Gregory of Nin 雕像,相傳碰他的左拇指據說
會帶來幸福,所以吸引一堆人前來,被摸得亮晶晶。"銀門"為東門,現在則為露天果菜市場,"銅門" 為南門面海,咖啡廳
林立,"鐵門"為西門舊市政廳及人民廣場。
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When Roman Emperor Diocletian built his elaborate palace at the turn of the third century, he also commissioned the Temple of Jupiter.
Jupiterov Hram honored the mythological Roman god of gods who Diocletian also claimed was his father. During the 7th century, the temple
became a Christian baptistery. It is called Saint John’s Baptistery in tribute to an 8th century archbishop who is entombed under this elaborate
ceiling of carved stone.
Inside the City Museum of Split are three floors of artifacts, paintings, sculptures and exhibits tracing some of the glorious history of Split and
nearby Salona dating back to the 12th century. But before you walk inside to explore this collection at Musea Grada Splita, you are impressed
with the courtyard of the Papalić Palace. This Late Gothic and Renaissance architecture by Juraj Dalmatinac served as the mansion for Dmine
Papalić and his family during the 14th century. The museum was established in 1946.
Inside the City Museum of Split are three floors of artifacts, paintings, sculptures and exhibits tracing some of the glorious history of Split and
nearby Salona dating back to the 12th century. But before you walk inside to explore this collection at Musea Grada Splita, you are impressed
with the courtyard of the Papalić Palace. This Late Gothic and Renaissance architecture by Juraj Dalmatinac served as the mansion for Dmine
Papalić and his family during the 14th century. The museum was established in 1946.
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The Katedrala Svetog Duje’s high altar is spectacular. Built in 1767 by Giovanni Morlaiter, it is crowned by a semi-dome with paintings by Matej
Pončun. On either side are two large gilded angels suspending a regulatory. The cathedral is dedicated to Saint Domnius. He was the Bishop of
Salona when he was beheaded at the command of Diocletian in 304 AD. Ironically, the relics of Split’s patron saint are now in the mausoleum
built in 305 AD for the Roman emperor who ordered his death. Conversely, Diocletian’s remains have disappeared.
Statue of St. John the Baptist Temple of Jupiter Split ;苦行僧之臉部與手部之表情扣人心弦,由 20 世紀生與此, 成名於維也納、
巴黎、羅馬之名師 Ivan Mestrovic( 1883~1962 )操刀,其雕鑄的技巧突破傳統,令人稱讚。可算是羅丹新藝術風格之傳承人 79
歷經千年依然保存良好之中世紀貴族石棺
The remains of Saint Domnius were once kept in this early 15th century altar at Split’s cathedral. This ornately carved sarcophagus by Bonino
da Milano now contains the body of Saint Arnir. He was Split’s bishop when he was martyred in 1180. Nearby are two other things to appreciate
in what some historians call the world’s oldest cathedral. The first are the two huge wooden front doors. They were carved during the 13th
century by Andrija Buvina. Then take the steps leading to the cathedral’s treasury where you will see religious artifacts, some dating back to the
6th century.
Split was under the rule of the Republic of Venice from 1420 until 1797. In 1435, the Venetians built a castle near the shoreline outside of the
southwestern wall of Diocletian’s Palace. This octagonal tower is all that remains. It is a formidable reminder of the strength of the Venetians
from over 200 years ago. Mletačka Kula is located in Braće Radić Square, also called Fruit Square.
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500 元庫納之封面人物
Split 處處是古蹟、教堂;古城內唯一的大街
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雕像旁威尼斯王國時期興建之古堡
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Next to the Iron Gate, which is also called Porta Ferrea, is this unique clock with 24 Roman numerals. The Tower Clock was added next to
Crkva Gospa od Zvonik or the Church of Our Lady of the Bell Tower during the 11th century. It is best seen from Pjaca Square along the western
outside wall of Diocletian’s Palace. The chapel was founded in the 6th century.
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Split’s first town hall was erected during the mid-15th century. In 1906, this Gothic-style building with a touch of Venetian design opened as
Split’s City Hall. Sometimes referred to as the Communal Palace, it is now a museum called Stara Gradska Vijećnica. They have rotating
exhibits of contemporary artists and photographers. It is located near the Iron Gate in Narodni Trg which translates into People’s Square. The
locals call it Pjaca.
The Golden Gate was the primary portal into Diocletian’s Palace when the retired Roman Emperor lived here in the early 4th century. Notice the
empty niches on the façade of the Porta Aurea. These once housed grand statues including one of Emperor Diocletian. This is the outer gate. It 86
leads to a 30 by 30 foot courtyard where there is a second gate into the northern section of Old Town.
城堡旁之露天咖啡座
介紹一下克羅埃西亞這裡的特產號稱黑金之黑松露 Tartufi ( Truffles, 法文稱為 Truffe ): 稀少而珍貴,人類至今仍然無法在實
驗室裏培育之松露( 如克羅埃西亞 Motovun, 義大利 Alba, 法國 Perigord 之等山區 )為法國王室盛宴中的著名香料。與魚子
醬、鵝肝醬等高級美食並列,號稱美食“三大天王”。 因含有類似雄性賀爾蒙雄烯酮的氣味,雌性動物對它特別敏感,所
以大部分的獵豬和獵犬都是雌性的,而松露成長偏好鹼性土質,高品質的松露主要出產於石灰質地形區內,菌根真菌的
松露其養份來自寄生的橡樹、白楊樹、柳樹樹根和土壤,顏色和氣味會因樹種而不同; 一個地方如果生長過松露,土地
和植物的養份會被松露吸收殆盡,在一段時間內無法生長出其他東西。白松露的全球產量約三噸,相對於年產量约 35 噸
的黑松露,更为珍貴稀少。黑松露季節:每年 1 月到 3 月,每公斤約 800-1200 歐元;白松露季節:每年 10 月到 12 月,每
公斤約 2000-8000 歐元。可惜高貴之新鮮品不准進口。 松露並不是生長在地表上層,且不知道生長的具體位置。即使知
道地點,如果没有松露獵犬和松露猪的幫助,光依靠人是無法完成松露采集這項工作的。
A Benedictine monastery was built outside of the northern walls of Split in 1069. It was a Roman Catholic convent. The nunnery was later
dedicated to St. Arnir. He was an Archbishop of Split before being stoned to death in 1180. The complex suffered a devastating fire in 1888 and
was completely demolished in 1945 except for this 18th century bell tower and a small chapel.
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The Silver Gate is the eastern entrance to the Diocletian’s Palace or Old Town of Slit. Porta Argentea is located at the intersection of Hrvojeva
and Krešimirova Streets next to the Green Market. Residents once believed this gate was protected by Saint Apollinaris. After Saint Peter made
him a bishop in Ravenna, the capital city of the Western Roman Empire, he was martyred in 79 AD.
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仍在營業中的城門市集
早餐:
晚餐:
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克羅埃西亞與斯洛維尼亞的美食,內陸地區菜色和奧地利匈牙利很像,而沿海地區則和義大利菜較為類似,不少東西都
似曾相似,生火腿、起司、義大利麵、燉飯、肉腸。特別推薦冰淇淋、香草奶油蛋糕、松露餐,藍寶石生蠔有著特殊礦
物味,鮮甜可口,口感吃起來肉質結實。