Antioxidants

Antioxidants are key components to a healthy, anti-aging skin routine as they are to a
healthy, disease-preventing diet. Topical application of antioxidants increases the skin's
ability to protect and heal itself from the damage (by inflammation, toxins, UV radiation)
that leads to premature aging.

At Naturopathica, we use antioxidants in almost all our products based on the solid
scientific evidence supporting their benefit in skincare health and anti-aging function.

Antioxidants Defined
Antioxidants are naturally occurring molecules capable of counteracting the damaging
effects of oxidation in the body. They are a diverse class of compounds that include
nutrients (vitamins, minerals) as well as enzymes (proteins in the body that catalyze
reactions) and amino acids, and are believed to play a vital role in preventing the
development of many diseases.

Free radicals are highly reactive molecules with an odd number of electrons generated
from oxygen;1 they can damage various cellular structures, such as DNA, proteins, and
cellular membranes. It is one of the principal theories to explain the cause of aging in the
body.2 In the skin, free radical damage leads to the breakdown of collagen fibers,
resulting in skin relaxation and wrinkled appearance. They also may lead to
inflammation, which is thought to play an additional role in skin aging.3

Free radicals and skin aging

There are two types of aging in the skin: intrinsic or chronologic aging, and extrinsic or
environmental aging. In intrinsic aging, free radicals are formed naturally through normal
metabolism. Here, cellular mechanisms become less efficient resulting in fine wrinkles
and a relaxed appearance. In extrinsic aging, the skin suffers additional free radical
damage from exogenous factors such as UV exposure, cigarette smoking and air
pollution. These environmental stressors not only accelerate skin aging, but are distinctly
responsible for skin damage leading to deep wrinkles, hyper-pigmentation, chronic
inflammation, abnormal elastin formation, and cancer, not present in chronological aging
alone. 4,5

Antioxidants neutralize these damaging free radicals by quenching the reactive

molecules, thereby protecting cells from endogenous and exogenous stressors and
prolonging their life and vitality.

Endogenous Antioxidants
Under ideal circumstances, the skin uses a series of endogenous enzymatic and
nonenzymatic oxidants to protect itself from free-radical damage.6 Enzymatic
antioxidants include glutathione peroxidase, superoxide dismutase and catalase;
nonenzymatic antioxidants include vitamin C, glutathione, vitamin E, coenzyme Q10
(ubiquinone-10), and alpha lipoic acid. It is known that exposure to UV light depletes
these naturally occurring antioxidants as does chronologic aging.7,8 Without adequate
antioxidant protection, free radicals generated are left unchecked, resulting in skin aging.
Exogenous / Topical Antioxidants
Supplementing the skin with additional antioxidants has been demonstrated to give
additional protection from sun-induced damage, slow down skin aging, reduce
inflammation and ultimately improve skin appearance.9

Cosmetic treatments of the latest generation, developed against wrinkles, rely on

antioxidant properties of ingredients such as SOD, Vitamins C,E and alpha lipic acid, all
and various plant extracts, such as acai berry, white and green tea, rosemary, and
turmeric. Through topical (and also ingestible) application botanical antioxidants have
attracted considerable attention for their ability to reduce the incidence of free radical
mediated photo-carcinogenesis and photo-aging. 10, 11

Formulating topical treatments with antioxidants is not without its challenges.

Antioxidants are notoriously unstable, making them difficult to stabilize in formulation.12
Equally important is ensuring that the active ingredient penetrates the epidermis and
stays in the skin long enough to exert its desired effect. For complete antioxidant
protection, both water soluble antioxidants (effective in extra- and intracellular fluid), and
fat soluble (protect biological membranes) are needed. When these formulation
challenges are met a topical antioxidant can effectively shield against free radicals aging
in the skin.

Topical antioxidants are now recognized as an integral part of a comprehensive sun

protection program and as a valuable addition to any anti-aging skin care regimen. As
such, topical antioxidants have far-reaching benefits for protecting and improving UV-
damaged and aging skin.12,13

References
1. Black HS. Potential involvement of free radical reactions 1. in ultraviolet light-mediated cutaneous damage. Photochem
Photobiol 46(2):213-21 (1987 Aug).

2. Harman D. Aging: a theory based on free radical and radiation 2. chemistry. J Gerontol 11(3):298-300 (1956 Jul).

3. Greenstock CL. 4. Free radicals, aging, and degenerative diseases. New York:Alan R. Liss (1986).

4. Lavker, R.M. (1995). Cutaneous aging: Chronologic versus photoaging. In B. Gilchrest (Ed.), Photodamage (Vol. 1,
pp.123-135). Cambridge: Blackwell.

5. Bosset S et al. Photoageing shows histological features of chronic skin inflammation without clinical and molecular
abnormalities. Brit J Derm. 2003;149:826-835.

6. Shindo Y, Witt E, Han D, et al. Enzymic and non-enzymic antioxidants in epidermis and dermis of human skin. J Invest
Dermatol 102(1):122-4 (1994 Jan).

7. Fuchs J, Huflejt ME, Rothfuss LM, et al. Impairment of enzymic 6. and nonenzymic antioxidants in skin by UVB
irradiation. J Invest Dermatol 93(6):769-73 (1989 Dec).

8. Beckman KB, Ames BN. The free radical theory of aging matures. Physiol Rev 1998; 78: 547±81.

9. Darr D, Dunston S, Faust H, et al. Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamin C and E) with and without sunscreens as
topical photoprotectants. Acta Derm Venereol 1996: 76: 264–268.

10. F’guyer S, Afaq F, Mukhtar H. Photochemoprevention of skin cancer by botanical agents. Photodermatol
Photoimmunol Photomed 2003: 19: 56–72.
11. Lu Y P, Lou Y R, Yen P, Mitchell D, Huang M T, Conney A H. Time course for early adaptive responses to ultraviolet
B light in the epidermis of SKH-1 mice. Cancer Res 1999: 59: 4591–4602.
Kligman D. Cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Clin 2000: 18: 609–615.

12. Chiu A, Kimball AB. Topical vitamins, mineral and botanical ingredients as modulators of environmental and
chronological
skin damage. Br J Dermatol 2003: 149: 681–691.

13. Pinnell SR. Cutaneous photodamage, oxidative stress and topical antioxidant protection. J Am Acad Dermatol 2003:
48: 1–19.

Superoxide Dismutase (SOD):

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is one of four antioxidant enzymes that exist in the body to
protect it from free radical damage. Its one of the first lines of defense and is found
primarily in the epidermis but also in the dermis. SOD serves a key antioxidant role by
reducing the damaging Superoxide (O2-) free radical, the most common free radical in
the body. 1

Endogenous SOD levels are compromised by both environmental factors and aging.
Several studies have shown marked decreases in SOD activity after exposure to UVA
and UVB radiation 2,3 leaving the cell susceptible to oxidative damage. SOD levels also
drop as we age, offering less protection against free radical damage. For these reasons,
supplementing the skin with additional SOD can help offset this loss in vital antioxidant
protection.

Several studies have demonstrated the antioxidant protection obtained with topical SOD.
SOD cream was shown to have strong UV protection ability, and was able to completely
prevent the decrease in endogenous SOD activity after UV exposure, as well as UV-
induced inflammation.6 Other studies showed topical SOD to significantly increase
antioxidant protection within the skin, preventing several skin diseases associated with
increased free radical species.4,5

SOD is an powerful treatment against free radical damage in the skin. Its protection
against UV induced damage reduces collagen breakdown, inflammation and other
factors that lead to skin aging such as wrinkles, skin laxity and hyper-pigmentation.

Naturopathica Products containing SOD:

Vitamin C Revitalizing Complex
Daily Defense Moisturizer

1. Shindo Y, Witt E, Han D, et al. Enzymic and non-enzymic antioxidants in epidermis and dermis of human skin. J Invest
Dermatol 102(1):122-4 (1994 Jan).

2. J. Fuchs. M.E. Huflejt. L.M. Rothfuss. D.S. Wilson, G. Carcamo and L. Packer, !mpairment of enzymic and non-
enzymic antioxidants in skin by UVB radiation. L invest. Dermatol., 93 (1989) 769-773.

3. I. Y- Shindo. E. Wilt. D. Han and L. Packer. Dose-response effects of acute ultraviolet irradiation on antioxidants and
molecular markers of oxidation in murine epidermis. J. Invest. Dermatol. (1994) 470--475.

4. Y. Mizushima. K. Hoshi, A Yanagawa and K. Takano, Topical application of superoxide dismutase in a cream. Drugs.
Exp. Clio. Res.. 17(1991) 127-131.

5. Y. Niwa. Lipid peroxides and superoxide dismutase (SOD) induction in skin inflammatory diseases and treatment with
SOD preparations, Dermatologica (Suppl. I ), 179 (1989) 101-106.
 6. Y. Miyachi. T. Horio and S. lmamura. Sunburn cell formation is prevented by scavenging oxygen intermediates, Clin.
Exp. Dermatol.. 8 (1983) 305-310.

Tetrahydro-curcuminoids (THC):

Tetrahydro-curcuminoids (THC) are derived from curcuminoids present the roots of

Turmeric (Curcuma longa). Turmeric root has long been used in traditional medicine and
skincare for its countless health benefits, particularly for its anti-cancer, anti-
inflammatory and anti-oxidant benefits. It is the curcuminoids that are responsible for
these biological activities, with THC being the most effective. 1

THC is reported to be a potent antioxidant by virtue of its molecular structure, with higher
superoxide scavenging ability and fat oxidation inhibition than vitamin E. 2

Its potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities have been demonstrated in a

number of independent studies 3-5 and has been shown to have highly effective
antioxidant activity, even at lower concentrations. 3

THC has been shown to be capable of a dual function—prevention of free radical

formation and intervention to neutralize existing free radicals. Because of this broad
mechanism of action, THC may be aptly referred to as a “bioprotectant.”6

Naturopathica Products containing THC:

Lavender Protective Moisturizer

1. Majeed, M. et al. (1995) Curcuminoids: Antioxidant Phytonutrients. Nutriscience Publishers, New Jersey.
 


2. Osawa, T. et al. (1995) Antioxidative activity of tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Biosci. Biotechnol. Biochem. 59(9): 1609-12.



3. Bonté, F. et al. (1997) Protective effect of curcuminoids on epidermal skin cells under free oxygen radical stress. Planta
Med. 63(3):265-266.

4. Mukhopadhyay, A. et al. (1982). Anti-inflammatory and irritant activities of curcumin analogues in rats. Agents and
Actions, 12(4):508-51.


5. Nakamura, Y. et al. (1998) Inhibitory effects of curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids on the tumor promoter-induced
reactive oxygen species generation in leukocytes, in vitro and in vivo. Jpn. J. Cancer Res., 89(4):361-70.



6. Research Report No. 786, Sabinsa Corporation, U.S.A. (1995)

 


Acai:

A small grape like fruit from the Acai Palm (Euterpe oleracea), this “superfruit” is the
leading source of anthocyanin, and found to be one of the most potent natural
antioxidants. Acai berry has been reported to contain the most anthocyanins of any food-
it is 10 times more potent than that of red grapes and twice that of blueberries. 1
Anthocyanins are antioxidant that belong the flavonoid family, and give acai berries their
characteristic deep red/purple color. They are powerful natural antioxidants that protect
the skin against environmental damage. Anthocyanins have been shown to significantly
decrease UVB induced DNA damage and free radical species in human keratinocytes,
decreasing cancer formation.2,3 They are believed to inhibit production of free radicals in
inflammatory pathways (such as histamine, prostaglandins, and leukotrienes)4 thereby
decreasing the inflammatory response that contributes to skin aging and wrinkles.

Naturopathica Products containing Acai:

Primrose Eye & Upper Lip Treatment Cream
Soothing Shave Cream

1. AIBMR Life Sciences Report, 2006.

2. F Cimino, R Ambra, R Canali, A Saija and F Virgili, Effect of Cyanidin-3-O-glucoside on UVB-induced response in
human keratinocytes, J Agric Food Chem 54 (2006), pp. 4041–4047.

3. A Tarozzi, A Marchesi, S Hrelia, C Angeloni, V Andrisano and J Fiori et al., Protective effects of cyaniding-3-O-beta-
glycopyranoside against UVA-induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes, Photochem Photobiol 81 (2005), pp. 623–
629

4. J Shi, J Yu, JE Pohorly and Y Kakuda, Polyphenolics in grape seeds—biochemistry and functionality, J Med Food 6
(2003), pp. 291–299

White Tea:

White tea comes almost exclusively from China and is from the same plant (Camellia
sinensis) as green, oolong and black tea. It is produced from only the young silvery
leaves and buds and is rapidly steamed and dried rather than fermented or roasted. It is
this minimal processing that gives white tea the highest amount of polyphenols, which
are responsible for the potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer activities in
tea extracts.

The most powerful polyphenols in tea are a supgroup called ”catechins” and are
extremely effective at destroying free radicals which can help reverse the aging process.
Of these catechins, epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is the most powerful, with 25-100
times the potency of vitamin C or E. EGCG is the most abundant in white tea. 1

There have been a number of studies of skin benefits of white tea.

White tea is a powerful anti-mutagen. Several studies have demonstrated topical tea
extract to prevent photocarcinogenesis,2,3,4 and above all of them, white tea was shown
to be the most powerful anti-mutagen.5

White tea protects the skin from UV radiation, damage and inflammation. A recent study
showed topical white tea extracts to significantly reduce the amount of UV induced free
radicals and inflammatory prostaglandins in skin. The results provide evidence that skin
products containing sufficient white tea extract may help protect against UVB-induced
skin aging and skin cancers. 6

White tea is also protective in other inflammatory responses, such as the breakdown of
elastin and collagen. A recent study found white tea to have the very highest anti-
elastase and anti-collagenase activities of all 21 plant extracts studied. White tea was
also found to have the highest phenolic and antioxidant activity. 7
In addition, white tea polyphenols have been found to significantly increase fibroblast
(the cells that synthesize collagen) cell proliferation, as fibroblasts and their activity
decline with age and UV radiation. All of this research supports white tea as one of the
most powerful anti-aging compounds in topical formulations.

Naturopathica Products containing White Tea:

White Tea Antioxidant Mask

1. A.B. Sharangi. Medicinal and therapeutic potentialities of tea (Camellia sinensis) – A review. Food Reasearch
International 42 (2009) 529-535.

2. F’guyer S, Afaq F, Mukhtar H. Photochemoprevention of skin cancer by botanical agents. Photodermatol Photoimmunol
Photomed 2003: 19: 56–72.

3. Afaq F, Adhami V M, Mukhtar H. Photochemoprevention of ultraviolet B signaling and photocarcinogenesis. Mutat Res
2005: 571: 153–173.

4. Afaq F, Mukhtar H. Photochemoprevention by botanical antioxidants. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 2002: 15: 297–
306.

5. Linus Pauling Institute: Micronutrient Information Center

6. Topical application of green and white tea extracts provides protection from solar-simulated ultraviolet light in human
skin. Experimental Dermatology, 18, 522–526 Melissa M. Camouse et al.

7. Tamsyn SA Thring, Pauline Hili, Declan P Naughton. Anti-collagenase, anti-elastase and anti-oxidant activities of
extracts from 21 plants. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2009, 9:27 (4 August 2009)

Rosemary Leaf Extract:

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is a bushy, aromatic evergreen shrub native to the

Mediterranean region. As an herb, Rosemary's uses as a culinary and medicinal
ingredient are well documented. The extract has powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory
and anti-mircrobial activities and is used in both food preservation and in cosmetics.

The main active constituents in rosemary extract are composed of polyphenolics,

including carnosic acid, carnosol, rosemarinic acid and ursolic acid. Among these,
carnosic acid and carnosol are the most potent antioxidant constituents and may
account for over 90% of the antioxidant properties of rosemary extract.

It has the unique capability of progressing through several stages of oxidation while
continuing to quench free radicals (the "carnosic acid cascade"). Carnosic acid was also
found to protect DNA from oxidative damage. 6

Rosemarinic acid and ursolic acid also contribute to the antioxidant action of rosemary
extract. Rosmarinic acid’s antioxidant activity is relative to its chemical structure- it
possesses four phenolic hydrogens that contribute to its ability to control free radical
oxidation. It is water soluble antioxdiant. Ursolic acid and its derivatives are antioxidants
that form oil-resistant barriers on the skin and hair as they do in the waxy coating of
fruits. This adds moisture and conditioning to the skin.

Studies at the University of Catania in Italy have shown that rosemary extracts protect
skin cells by safeguarding a protective protein called HSP70. The role of this protein is to
reduce damage caused by environmental stress, free radicals and other toxins to the
skin. Thereby preventing age related skin damage such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity
and sallowness.

Naturopathica Products containing Rosemary Leaf Extract:

Sweet Lupine Cleansing Cream
Neroli Clarifying Serum
Carrot Seed Soothing Serum
Geranium Regenerating Serum
Beech Tree & Ginseng Daily Moisturizer
Vitamin C Revitalizing Complex
Cassis Ultra Replenishing Cream
Calendula Essential Hydrating Cream
Primrose Eye & Upper Lip Treatment Cream
Honey Vanilla Lip Balm
Soothing Shave Cream
Daily Defense Moisturizer
Pumpkin Purifying Enzyme Peel

Pumpkin Purifying Enzyme Peel 15%

White Tea Antioxidant Mask
Shea Butter Ultra-Rich Body Cream
Peppermint Foot & Body Cream
Lemon Verbena Hand & Body Cream
Lemon Verbena Body Polish
Lemongrass Mimosa Body Scrub
Rosemary Citron Sea Salt Scrub
Espresso Mud Body Scrub

1. Masuda T, Inaba Y, Maekawa T, Takeda Y, Tamura H, Yamaguchi H: Recovery mechanism of the antioxidant activity
from carnosic acid quinone, an oxidized sage and rosemary antioxidant. J Agric Food Chem 2002, 50(21):5863-5869

2. al-Sereiti MR, Abu-Amer KM, Sen P. Pharmacology of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis Linn.) and its therapeutic
potentials. Indian J Exp Biol. 1999;37(2):124-130.

3. Saen-Lopez R et al. J Chromatogr A 2002953(1-2):251-256

4. Lee KG, Shibamoto T. J Agric Food Chem 2002; 50(17):4947-4952

5. Torre J et al. J Chromatogr A 2001;919(2):305-311

6. Slamenova D et al. Cancer Lett 2002;177(2):145-153

7. Zhu BT, Loder DP, Cai MX, Ho CT, Huang MT, Conney AH. Dietary administration of an extract from rosemary leaves
enhances the liver microsomal metabolism of endogenous estrogens and decreases their uterotropic action in CD-1 mice.
Carcinogenesis. 1998 Oct;19(10):1821-7

8. Calabrese V et al. Biochemical studies of a natural antioxidant isolated from rosemary and its application in cosmetic
dermatology. Int J Tissue React 2000;22(1):5-13

9. Calabrese V et al. Int J Tissue React 2001;23(2):51-58

Resveratrol:

Resveratrol is a naturally occurring polyphenolic compound present in certain fruits and

other plants, but has its highest concentration in the skins of red grapes and in red wine.1
In the plant, resveratrol functions as a protective agent and is synthesized in response to
stress, infection, or strong UV radiation. In recent years resveratrol has been the subject
of intense interest due to its potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging
properties.

Resveratrol exerts its antioxidant effects on two levels: by scavenging existing free
radicals and by preventing their formation through chelating metal ions, which catalyse
free radical formation. This dual action make it highly effective in combating the
damaging free radicals that lead to skin aging.

Resveratrol’s ability to prevent UV-mediated photoaging has been well documented.

Several in vitro and in vivo studies have shown topical applications of resveratrol to
protect against UVB-mediated cutaneous damage and inhibit UVB-mediated oxidative
stress.2-4 It was also shown to prevent UVA-induced damage and abnormal cellular
proliferation. 5

The antioxidant ability of resveratrol is reported to be both potent and efficient- generally
many times greater than that of vitamin E and C.6 In a study done by Stojanovic et al,
resveratrol was demonstrated to be 95% efficient at preventing UV-induced lipid
peroxidation, compared with ~65% for vitamin E and ~37% for vitamin C.7

A recent study comparing the anti-oxidative strength of 1% resveratrol cosmetic cream

to a 1% idebenone cream revealed the resveratrol cream to have a stunning 17-fold
increase in antioxidant potency to the idebenone cream. 8

A new product with 1% resveratrol developed for Calidora Skin Clinics (Seattle, WA) was
tested against 1% idebenone (Prevage MD, Allergan, Inc., Irvine, CA) using the ORAC
test (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacit), an industry standard for cosmetics and
nutrition. The resveratrol product yielded 4845 µmole VE/g (vitamin E equivalent per
gram) compared with 279 for the 1% idebenone, approximately a 17-fold increase in
8
antioxidant potency. Clinical testing is underway for this promising formulation.

Resveratrol is also reported to stimulate in vitro cell proliferation and collagen synthesis
by protecting the dermal matrix from proteases and improving the function of fibroblasts.9

Supplementing the skin with resveratrol provides potent anti-aging benefits through
antioxidant protection from UV-induced damage and inflammation while promoting the
formation of new collagen.

Naturopathica Products containing Resveratrol:

Sweet Cherry Brightening Enzyme Peel
Sweet Cherry Brightening Enzyme Peel 15%
1. Siemann E, Creasy L. Concentration of the phytoalexin resveratrol in wine. Am J Enol Vitic1992;43: 49–52.

2. Aziz MH, Afaq F, Ahmad N. Prevention of ultraviolet-B radiation damage by resveratrol in mouse skin is mediated via
modulation in survivin. Photochem Photobiol 81(1):25-31 (2005 Jan-Feb).

3. Afaq F, Mukhtar H. Botanical antioxidants in the prevention of photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Exp Dermatol
2006; 15: 678–84.

4. Adhami VM, Afaq F, Ahmad N. Suppression of ultraviolet B exposure-mediated activation of NF-kappaB in normal
human keratinocytes by resveratrol. Neoplasia 5(1):74-82 (2003 Jan-Feb).

5. Chen ML, Li J, Xiao WR et al. Protective effect of resveratrol against oxidative damage of UVA irradiated HaCaT cells.
Jhong Nan Da Xue Xue Bao Yi Ban 2006; 31: 635–9.

6. Miura T, Muraoka S, Ikeda N, Watanabe M, Fujimoto Y. Antioxidative and prooxidative action of stilbene derivatives.
Pharmacol Toxicol 2000; 86: 203–8.

7. Stojanovic S, Sprinz H, Brede O. Efficiency and mechanism of the antioxidant action of trans -resveratrol and its
analogues in the radical liposome oxidation. Arch Biochem Biophys 2001; 391 : 79–89.

8. Baxter RA.. Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation. J
Cosmet Dermatol. 2008 Mar;7(1):2-7.

9. US Patent 6147121 - Skin toning by stimulating collagen synthesis/proliferation of dermal fibroblasts