Module MA2022 – Ship Handling & Simulator 1

Anchors I

Classification Societies specify the number and weight of anchors a ship is required to
carry. The “Anchor and Chain Cable Act 1967” states that all anchors must be tested to
the proof load specified as being appropriate to its weight. If after test the anchor is
without material deformation of flow, a certificate will be issued stating the proof load
applied and giving a full description (types, weight etc) of the anchor.
The anchor must then be marked in a conspicuous place with the number of the test
certificate and the identification letters of the Certifying Authority.

Holding Power = Efficiency of an anchor x Weight of an anchor

(1) Testing of Anchors and Cables

(i) Anchors

Can be tested by dropping and bending. In the drop test, the anchor is dropped both
end-on and side on from a height of 12 feet onto an iron or steel slab. Then, the
anchor is slung and a percussion test is carried out with a sledgehammer of 7 lbs. A
clear ring will indicate that there is no flow or hairline crack within the anchor.

An extra piece of metal (8” long x 1” dia.) forming port of the anchor is cast
together with the anchor. The piece is then bent cold by hammering through an
angle of 90º over a radius of 1.5”. If no fractures appear then the metal is
considered ductile.

All anchors are subject to proof load test. The above tests are for cast steel anchors.
Wrought iron or forged steel anchors are forged from red hot steel by hammering.

(ii) Cables

The Anchors and Chain Cables Act 1967, states that all chain cable must be tested as
follows:

A piece of 3 links shall be selected and cut from each length of approximately 15
fathoms (27.5 metres), and the sample so obtained shall be subjected to the breaking
load specified relevant to its diameter and grade. If after test the sample is unbroken
and is without material flaw, the remaining 15 fathoms shall be subjected to the
proof load specified. If after this proof load test the cable is without material
deformation or flow, a certificate will be issued stating the breaking load and proof
load applied and also giving a full description of the cable.
The end links of every ‘shackle’ must then be marked with the number of the test
certificate and the identification letters of the Certifying Authority.

Joining shackles are to be subject to the same proof load as the cable with which
they are to be used. In addition one sample in every 25 lugged or one in every 50
lugless is to be subject to the breaking load. Joining shackles must also be marked
with the number of the test certificate relating to them and with the identification
letters of the Authority.

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(2) Type of Anchors

(i) Admiralty Pattern

This anchor has a holding power of 3 to 4 times its own weight in reasonable good
holding ground. The stock weighs ¼ the weight of the anchor. It is long, and so
designed that when the anchor strikes the seabed it always takes the horizontal position
causing the fluke to dig in. If the anchor should fall with its arms horizontal, the stock
being weighted at the ends and longer than the arms will automatically turn the anchor.
The stock also gives the anchor good stability, i.e. when horizontal pull is applied in a
direction other than in line with the shank, the anchor will turn in a horizontal plane in
the ground instead of breaking out and rolling over.

Advantage
1) One fluke will always dig in.
2) Good rotational stability.
3) No moving parts to become choked.

Disadvantages
1) Will not stow in a hawse pipe.
2) Upper fluke may become fouled when anchoring or when swinging at turn of tide.

The “forelock” is a flat locking piece which fits into a slot in the stock. The purpose of
the forelock is to enable the stock to be readily unshipped and stowed parallel to the
shank when required. The legs of the forelock are opened sufficiently to prevent
accidental unshipping and a lip on the opposite side of the stock prevents movement of
the sock the other way.

Presently, admiralty anchors are still being used for anchoring on working barges
which require them to be stationary. They are anchored with the help of floating
cranes.

(ii) Patent Stockless

This anchor has a holding power of 3 to 4 times its own weight in reasonably good
holding ground. The head including arms and flukes must weigh not less than 60% of
the actual weight of the anchor. This anchor is constructed so that the head will pivot on
the shank and the arms will open out to an angle of 45º with the shank (metal sops
prevent further opening). On the seabed the drag on the tripping palms causes the arms
to open and the flukes to dig in. This type of anchor is rotationally unstable, i.e. any
sideways pull of the cable on the anchor may cause the flukes to break out and the
anchor to roll over.

Advantage
1) Easily stowed and secured in a hawse pipe.
2) Quickly available for letting go.

Disadvantage
1) Rotationally unstable.
2) Pivot can become choked.

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(iii) AC14 / Stokes / Danforth (High holding power anchors)

These anchors have a holding power of 14 to 15 times their own weight in a reasonably
good holding ground. The increase in efficiency being obtained by having large areas
but thin tapered flukes operating at an angle of 30º to the shank. All these anchors have
good rotational stability and this is achieved by a stock on the Danforth and by
stabilizing fins on the Stokes and AC14.

Advantage
1) High holding power.
2) Good stability.
3) Hawse pipe stow.
4) Quick release.
5) Less weight (Lloyds only require them to be 75% of the weight of Stockless
Anchors).

Disadvantage
1) Expensive
2) Pivot can become choked.

(iv) Single Fluke

This type of anchor may be used as a permanent mooring for a buoy. At least four well
spread, would be required to secure a mooring buoy. These anchors are carefully placed
by lowering to the bottom by means of a slip rope rove through the shackle fitted to the
crown. The fluke being already pointing downwards is usually easily embedded by
dragging a very short distance, or a small explosive charge may be used to dig a hole for
the fluke when the seabed is usually hard.

(v) Mushroom

This type of anchor may be used as a permanent mooring instead of a single fluke,
particularly when the bottom is soft mud. These anchors are shaped so that they scoop
up the seabed materials and thereby bury themselves. They are popular for mooring
light vessels.

Two anchors are laid from forward, the cables from each hawse pipe being shacked to
the upper links of a swivel and the cables from each mushroom being slacked to the
lower links of the swivel. The light vessel is therefore able to swing with the tide and at
the same time maintain a clear hawse.

(3) Parts of Anchors and Cable

Joining Shackles

(i) Lugged Joining Shackles

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These “Shackles” joined the 15 fathom length of chain cables together. The bow or
round end of the shackle is fitted outboard to prevent the lugs fouling as the cable run
out. The end links of each “shackle” of cable are open links to allow the joining
shackler to pass through.
The joining shackle bolt has a small lip on one end and a hole through the other end to
take the spile pin. The spile pin is tapered and is made of hardwood or bronze to
prevent it from becoming frozen in. The spile pin is held in place by a lead pellet
hammered into the dovetail chamber. When connecting up the shackle the boil requires
to be greased otherwise it may become frozen in. If a bolt is frozen, it may be freed by
heating and expanding the lugs by use of a blowlamp. A hardwood spile pin if difficult
to remove may be sheared by hammering the bolt.

To disconnect lugged joining shackles two different size punches with handles are
supplied. Other gear is a 71b hammer and if possible a wooden mould made to hold the
shackle correctly.
Spares: At least 4 joining shackles with box of spile pins and lead pellets. (Use new
spile pin every time and ream out remains of old lead pellet otherwise the new pellet
may work out).

(ii) Lugless Joining Shackles

With this type of joining shackle open links are not required at the ends of the lengths of
the cable; the joining shackles will connect direct to the common links (studded). These
shackles are made from non-corrosive nickel steel but should be coated with special
grease supplied by the manufacturer before they are assembled to try and ensure they
don’t become frozen.

To disconnect: Suitably support and secure the shackle. Knock out spile pin with
supplied punch and handle and 71b hammer. Knocked stud clear. Separate two sides of
shackle using special punch called “top swage”.

Use of the swage avoids damage to the accurately machined surfaces, and so enables
them to be fitted together again easily. If a spile punch is not available, a maul (hammer
with one pointed end) and a 71b hammer may be used. If a swage is not available a
piece of wood may be used.

Spares: At least 4 joining shackles with box of spile pins and pellets.

Advantages

Less liable to jam and jump on gypsy, or become fouled elsewhere.

(iii) Anchor Attachment

An ordinary lugless joining shackle will not fit directly onto the anchor ring, and a big
D end shackle is not suitable because it requires an open link. Therefore when the
vessel is supplied with lugless joining shackles, some alternative arrangement is

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required for connection of the cable to the anchor, and in this case one of the following
methods may be used.

(a) Two or three links of cable are permanently attached t the anchor ring, the link of
this attachment being suitable for direct connection by ordinary lugless joining shackles.
In this case the spare anchor will also have two or three links of cable permanently
attached, and no other additional spares are then required.

(b) Special pear shaped lugless and shackles are supplied which are suitable for direct
attachment of common link to anchor ring. In this case at least two spares should be
carried.

(c) 3 links cable supplied (1 link open, 2 common) + 2 bid D end shackles.

(iv) “D” Type End Shackle

This is the shackle that joins the cable to the anchor ring. This shackle is similar to the
jugged joining shackle but is made slightly larger to enable it to pass over the anchor
ring. This shackle is fitted bow inboard.

Spares: At least two big “D”s should be carried.

(v) Bitter End Connection

The inboard end of the cable is secured in various ways. It may be shackled or lashed to
an eyebolt on collision bulkhead, or may be secured by bolt and cable clench.
Sometimes to make it easier for slipping, the clench is fitted to the deck above the chain
locker and the end link of the cable is passed through a specially strengthen end slot cut
in the deck.

(vi) Chain Hooks

Hooks above 3 feet in length, used in all cases where is required to min-handle anchor
cable except for stowing cable in locker (when stowing in locker, use a piece of line
wrapped around cable).

(vii) Care of Anchors and Cables

Cables should be ranged in the dock bottom at the annual dry docking and thoroughly
cleaned of all dirt and rust. Each link of cable must then be inspected visually and
tapped with a hammer to ensure it gives a clear ring which signifies that it is clear form
fracture. In addition each link must be calibrated to ensure that it is not corroded or
worn by more than 10%. If any link is found to be so worn that section must be
renewed and the whole length retested.
Most cable has now integrally forged studs thus completely eliminating the trouble of
lost and loose studs, however if the cable has inserted studs, any loss will have to be
replaced and any loose recaulked studs prevent kinking and distortion.
All joining shackles must be opened up, inspected, greased and reconnected with new
spile pins. Ensure old pellet completely scraped out.

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The outboard length of each cable should be taken to the inboard end and the second
length of the cable then brought up to the anchor. This annual transfer is to avoid undue
wear on the outboard lengths and also to avoid the inboard lengths from becoming
brittle due to lying idle in the locker for too long.
The cable will require remarking by binding the correct studs with seizing wire and
painting the links around the joining shackles white. The remainder of the cable may be
coated with boiled oil before restowing on board. Sometimes dirty slump oil from
engine room is used to coat cable. While the anchors are on the dock bottom they
should also be thoroughly cleaned and visually inspected. The anchor ring and the pivot
should be checked to ensure that they are free to rotate correctly, and lubricated where
required. It is good opportunity when the cables are ranged to hose down and
thoroughly cleaned out the chain locker. The bottom gratings can be removed and
suction line to the hand pump checked to ensure clear. The locker can then removed
and suction line to the hand pump checked to ensure clear. The locker can then be
scraped and coated with bitumen paint if required. The bitter end connection must also
be overhauled.
The spare anchor should also be kept in good condition and ready for immediate use.
Securing arrangements should be regularly overhauled, and the pivot groove packed
with oil soaked rags and cemented over.

(viii) Anchor Buoy

An anchor buoy should be streamed every time prior to anchoring. Its purpose is to let
you and other ships to see the position of your anchor. It also enables recovery of the
anchor to be made, should it become necessary to slip the cable in an emergency or
should the cable carry away.
If a proper anchor buoy is not supplied to the ship, one can be made form an empty
drum or from a short length of spar (buoyancy of a timber about 20 lbs/ft).
The buoy wire is required to have a length equal to about one and a half times the depth
of the water to ensure that it will watch in a strong tide. A conventional size of wire for
the job is 1½” and in some cases this will be strong enough to enable recovery to be
made with it. Should it become necessary, then a diver will have to be used.
The buoy is usually painted a bright suitable colour for ease of spotting, and is fitted
with s strop or a pendant to facilitate removing and stowing away at sea.
A grapnel is used for the recovery of the buoy after weighing anchor.
(Current practices onboard ships nowadays show that 99% of vessels do not use anchor
buoys.)

Anchor II

(i) Amount of Cable to be sued

The selection of the anchorage and the decision on how much cable to use will depend
upon the following factors:-
(a) Depth of water.
(b) Nature of holding ground. Sand and shingle are best, then clay and mud. Rock is
of no use.
(b) Strength of wind and tide.
(c) Duration of stay.

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(d) Amount of shelter.

(e) Amount of swinging room.
To obtain maximum holding power, it is necessary that sufficient cable is paid out so
that the pull of the cable on the anchor is in a horizontal direction and in line with the
shank lying on the seabed. Any further paying out of the cable after this point has been
reached only increases the total holding power by the weight of the extra cable.
In general a scope of cable equals four or five times the depth of the water is usually
sufficient, but in strong winds or tides more may be required before the horizontal pull
is achieved.
If the pull of the cable at the anchor is allowed to rise to about 15º, then the holding
power is reduced by about one-half, and this therefore limits the maximum possible
effective anchoring depth to say about 40 fathoms. When anchoring in deep water the
anchor should be walked back to at least half depth before letting go, otherwise the
momentum gained may be too great to be checked, and also the anchor may be damaged
if it is hard bottom.

(ii) Choice of Anchor

In the northern hemisphere the port anchor is known as the working anchor and in the
southern hemisphere the starboard anchor. The choice is made meteorology reasons and
on the assumption that in the northern hemisphere depression will pass to the north of
the ship thus causing the wind to be initially from the SW, and then to veer to the NW.
If the ship is lying to the port anchor and the wind starts to freshen from the SW, and the
ship commences to yaw, the starboard anchor can be let go at the extremity of the yaw
and both cables paid out until the second anchor has sufficient cable to hold, and the
ship will then ride to both anchors.
Then as the wind veers towards NW, the starboard cable is slacked away as the ship
comes round until she is lying to a NW wind ad with even strain on both cables.
If the ship had originally being lying to the starboard anchor and a similar manoeuvre
had been carried out, then the ship would have finished up lying to the NW wind with
cables crossed.
In addition as the ship was coming around there would have been the danger of the
starboard cable fouling the port anchor.

(iii) Anchoring with Single Anchor

Order power on deck; check brake on; turn windlass over out of gear; clear anchor and
cables; have anchor ball or lights ready; put windlass in gear; brake off and walk back
anchor clear of pipe; put brake on and take out of gear; report ready. Master brings ship
to wind or tide and approaches anchorage under easy headway. When in position, full
astern to take all way off vessel and give her a little sternway, stop engine and let go.
Sternway is to prevent cable piling up on the bottom and fouling the anchor.
After the anchor has hit the bottom and the first rush is over, apply the brake lightly to
check the cable out and to control further paying out. Put up anchor signals and indicate
to bridge amount of cable out and how it is lying. Screw up with a shackle just forward
of the windlass and notify bridge when brought up. (Observe cable tighten and then
gently slacken).

(iv) Duties at Anchor

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See M. notice “Keeping a Safe Navigational Watch “.

(v) Dragging of Anchor

Dragging of anchor (M 767) – An anchor moving over the sea bottom involuntarily
because it is no longer preventing the movement of the vessel.
Dragging is said to occur when the anchor is not holding but the intention is to hold. To
ascertain if a ship is dragging, keep a careful check on her position. Watching the
bearing of two fixed objects in line near the beam is particularly useful for this purpose.
In addition, except when the bottom is soft mud, it is possible to ascertain if the anchor
is dragging by watching the behaviour of the cable. Dragging causes the cable to
tighten and slacken alternatively in a marked manner. In some cases, vibration and
sound in the cable is also an indication that the anchor is dragging. In fog with no radar,
dragging may be detected by lowering the hand lead to the bottom and observing
whether or not the line tends to lead ahead. If a ship is found to be dragging, further
dragging maybe prevented by one or more of the following actions:

(a) Paying out more cable so as to attain a horizontal pull by the anchor.
(b) Letting go the second anchor so as to reduce the pull on the other anchor.
(c) Going ahead on the engine so as to reduce the pull on the anchor.
(d) Picking up and finding more shelter or better holding ground.

(vi) Steering at Anchor

When a ship is at anchor in a tideway, there is a flow of water past the rudder; therefore
the ship may be steered. If the wheel is put hard over away from the anchor, the will
remain nearly parallel (½ point) to the stream but move bodily across the stream. The
anchor cable will lie in the resultant of the tide effect pushing down and the rudder
effect pushing across.
If a ship at anchor in a tideway is yawing or sheering out, that is bringing the anchor
first on the bow, and then on the other, a man can be put on the wheel to steer the ship as
if underway and so prevent the yaw.
Dropping the other anchor underfoot will also help to prevent sheering, but is must be
hove up again before slack water. Sheering is liable to cause the anchor to drag due to
the extra load imposed by jerking and also by tendency of the anchor to roll out due to
the sideways pull on the shank.
It is necessary to send somebody forward as quickly as possible to standby ready to let
go the second anchor should the first anchor become fouled, or should the second
anchor be required to hold the ship once she had dragged clear of the other ship.
If the ship is dragging down on you and there is insufficient time to take other measures,
then by putting your wheel hard over away from your anchor, you ship may be sheered
across the stream and clear.
Send somebody forward as quickly as possible to standby to let go the other anchor
should the first become fouled.
Paying out on the first anchor cable will help to give you more clearance once you have
sheered out of line but care must taken to pay out so fast that the rudder becomes in-
effective and so allowed the ship to just drift with the tide.

(vii) Sheering or Yawing at Anchor

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‘Sheer’ means a deviation of course, whilst ‘yaw’ means a temporary deviation of

course.
The movement of a ship lying at a single anchor which result in the cable leading first
on one bow and then on the other bow, may therefore be called either sheering or
yawing.
This movement of the ship at anchor is caused by varying tidal stream or more usually
by the effect of wind. The wind blowing first on one side of the ship will cause her to
sail through the water, and then the pull of the cable will bring the ship round that the
wind blows on the ship causing her to sail through water on the other side.
When a ship is yawing due to the wind, her stem traces a figure of eight path through
the water. In a tidal stream, even if the wind and tide are from the same direction (lee
tide), the ship will still yaw about due to varying wind force and the fact the ship has a
natural sheer across the due to the hawse pipe lead being off the centreline.

This movement of the ship at anchor may cause the anchor to drag due to:-
(a) Extra load due imposed by jerking at the extremity of the yaw.
(b) Extra load imposed by the increased windage area and underwater area when
broadside on.
© Sideway pull of the cable on the shank causing the fluke to break out.

In a tideway, to try and prevent sheering, put a man on the wheel to steer the ship as if
underway and in addition drop the second anchor underfoot. This second anchor will
help to check the movement by dragging along the bottom, it must however be taken up
again before slack water to prevent it from fouling the other cable.

If no tide, the best results are obtained by letting go the second anchor at the extremity
of the yaw and then paying out on both cable until the second anchor has sufficient
cable to hold. The ship will thin lie to both anchors, with even strain on both the cables
and a spread between the cables sufficient to prevent further yaw. If this method is to be
used, too much cable must not be paid out on the first anchor otherwise all the cable will
be out on the first anchor before the second anchor have sufficient cable to hold. If
circumstances allow, the ship could steam up to a position abreast the first anchor to let
go the second anchor, and then drop astern ad eventually ride on with an equal amount
of cable on both anchor.

(vii) Weighing Anchor

Check telegraph and whistle. Get water on deck and men stand-by. Turn windlass
(leaving the power on). Put the gypsy in gear, ensure the hawse pipe is clear (if cover
fitted to prevent stowaway), take brake off, report ready.
On signal from the bridge, commence heaving away, washing the cable as it comes in.
Give the signal for each shackle as it clears the water and indicate to the on how the
cable is leading. Examine each joining shackle as it comes in for loose pins or missing
lead pallets, remarking by painting if required for future easier identification.
Ship will heave herself towards the anchor until such time as the anchor starts to dredge.
Master will be giving the necessary helm and engine order to ease the strain on the cable
and prevent any excessive way over the ground. With a good windlass, cable will be
hove in at a rate of about 4 minutes per shackle.

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When the anchor is aweigh, that is just lifted clear of the bottom, the cable will be up
and down and maybe swinging slightly pendulum fashion and the strain will come on
the windlass. Ring the bell rapidly and take down the anchor ball or off the lights.
When the anchor clears the water, order the men out of the locker. Check the anchor for
fouling ad report to the bridge. If anchor is clear, heave up slowly to allow the anchor
to adjust itself correctly before entering the hawsepipe, then heave right home. Harden
up the brake and take the gypsy out f gear but don’t secure the anchor for sea until you
are reasonably sure you won’t need them again.

(viii) Clearing a Foul Anchor

On heaving up, the anchor is frequently found to be fouled with mud and other sea bed
material. In which case it is usually best cleared by towing the anchor awash for a short
distant.
Sometimes on clearing the water, the anchor is observed to be fouled with some
obstruction such as a length of wire, or even an old anchor/chain. In this case it may be
possible to clear the obstruction by just letting the anchor go again.
If not, a length of rope may be passed under the obstruction, hove taut and make fast to
a lead at the break of fo’c’sle head. Then walking back on the anchor the obstruction
will swing clear. The anchor can then be hove up and the obstruction slipped. (See
details relating to fouling of submarine cable and pipelines in Notices to Mariners).

(ix) Clearing a Turn in the Anchor

Prior to proceed on a sea passage it is essential to ensure that the anchors are housed
correctly in addition to being secured. If they are housed correctly, seas breaking
against them will caused the flukes to slam the hull casing damage, ain in addition more
stress will be put on the securing arrangements due to the movement on the anchor.
On heaving up the anchor it may be found that the fluke are pointing in towards the
hull. In this case if the anchor groove is free of solid sea bed material, steady heaving
may flip the flukes over in the required direction, this however will be to the detriment
of the hull and paintwork and is not recommended unless special plates fitted to the hull.
It is better to lower the anchor back into the water tow it awash for a short time. This
latter method usually proves successfully in swinging the fluke over. Sometimes on
heaving up it may be found that one fluke is hard against the hull whilst the other is well
away from the hull altogether. In this case there must be a part turning the cable
somewhere between the gypsy and the anchor.
Lowering the anchor back down a bit is usually all that is required to clear it, but if it
persists it may cleared by forcing the round with the help of a mooring wire. Drop the
eye of the wire over the fluke and lead the wire through a lead at break of the focsle
head, heave tight and fast to the bits. Then by walking back a little on the anchor the
pull of the wire will produce the necessary twist on the anchor to enable it to be housed
correctly. Sometimes shortly after leaving dry-dock trouble is experienced every time
when trying to stow the anchor after use. In this case the problem will be that the cable
hasn’t been replaced properly on the gypsy after being ranged in the dry-dock, i.e. what
should be the vertical link on the gypsy is in fact in a horizontal space. The effect is the
anchor will positioned a quarter of a turn out, with the result that quarter of the turn
must be forced into the cable between the gypsy and anchor will stow correctly.

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To solve this problem it is necessary to secure the anchor and then walk sufficient slack
on the cable to enable the cable to be lifted and moved on the gypsy. The cable on the
gypsy will have to be moved either ford or aft one link, so that a link that was in a
vertical position is moved into a horizontal space.
After slacking sufficient cable slot a crowbar through the link at the top of the spurling
pipe to chain locker to reduce the weight of cable on the gypsy. The actual job of lifting
the link is made difficult by the fact that there is not a convenient place above the gypsy
on which to secure a block.
If a shore crane or sheer legs a derrick is available to plumb the job then there is no
problem, but if not some other method will have to be thought up to lift the cable up out
of the slots. Once the cable is lifted it can be dragged across one link into the next
position with the help of chain hooks. One method to lift the cable would be to rig a 3”
x 3” spar with handy billy. Another method that has been found to be successful was
the use of short piece of 3’’x 3” placed under the cable just ford of the gypsy, and then
by heaving slowly the piece of wood travels up on top of the gypsy and forces cable up
off the gypsy.

Note: A swivel piece may be fitted between cable and anchor to try and prevent these
problems of housing the anchor.

(x) Clearing a Foul Hawse

To prevent turns developing in the cables when a ship is moored in a tideway, measures
to be taken to ensure that the ship always swings the same way.
If it is unlikely that the wind will swing her then just before slack water the shop should
be given a sheer across the stream by putting the wheel hard over and using the engines
if necessary, so that the new tide will swing her in the required direction.
Should a foul hawse develop, then the services of a tug should be employed to swing
the stern round in the opposite direction so as to take out the turns.
If a tug is not available then the sleeping cable will have to be disconnected in order to
remove the turns.
The necessary gear should be prepared before slack water so that work can commence
immediately after the turn of the tide so as to give maximum possible time (about 6
hours) to complete job. A boat will be required, so have this standing by.
Immediately after the turn of the tide, if the turns are under water heave on the riding
cable until the turns just above the water and then rope lash and cables together just
below the turns to prevent the turns slipping down.
Next connect a double mooring wire to the sleeping cable to act as a preventer wire.
This wire may have to be attached to the cable via a mooring shackle or wire strop.
The walk back the sleeping cable until a joining shackle is suitably positioned just fwd
or windlass. (Should always screw up with a shackle already there just in case cable has
to be broken).
Connect a second mooring wire to the sleeping cable just below the joining shackle and
this wire up on the bitts. Break the joining shackle and slack the end of the sleeping
cable down the hawse pipe. Two runner wires are then to be used over the bow to
remove the turns, half a turn at a time in a union purchase manner.

When all the turns are out, hold the end of the cable on the runner wires, disconnect the
second mooring wire and clear it. Then reconnect the second mooring wire and take the
weight. Let got he runner wires and heave the end of the cable back up the hawse pipe.

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Reconnect the end of sleeping cable and let go the second mooring wire. Then let go
the mooring wire preventer. The rope lashing is most safely removed by wrapping it in
paraffin soaked waste and setting the fire to do it.

(xi) Slipping Cable in an Emergency

The ship is lying to a single anchor and a gale suddenly springs up so that she begins to
drag onto a lee shore. Engines are not immediately available to prevent further
dragging and to assist in heaving up the anchor.
It is therefore decided to prepare to slip the cable from the locker whilst the engines are
being made ready. Immediately the engines are ready, the cable can than be slipped and
the ship proceed having first decided that it is not possible to heave up after the engines
are ready.
Immediately commence paying out more cable under brake control. The wind force
acting on the ship causing the cable to run, the brake controlling the pay out to try and
prevent jerking which may result in the parting of cable. Paying out the extra cable will
reduce the rate of drag in addition to reducing the overall time required to slip the cable.
If the cable continuous to run satisfactory, carry on paying out until the last joining
shackle is upon deck and then harden up the brake and put the windlass in gear. If the
cable does not run satisfactory, harden the brake earlier and put the gypsy in gear, and
then walk back to the last joining shackle.
While the paying out is in progress, prepare a length (about 15 fathom) of line to use as
a slip rope (3½” or 4” stopper rope). If the bitter end is conveniently placed outside
locker, this slip rope can be attached to the end of the cable and the bitter end let go
from its securing point.
The rope being let to a suitable safe position for slacking and required. If the bitter end
is inside the locker, the job of connecting the slip rope will have to wait until the last
joining shackle is up on the deck.
At this stage report to the master that you are all ready to slip when required. When the
engines are ready the master will give the order to slip.
Take off the brake and start the windlass walking back, and then clear all personnel
away from the vicinity of windlass. Apply controlled slacking to the end of the cable
until it is clear the gypsy and any other fitting towards the hawse pipe, and then let go.
If the cable end were allowed to run out freely, it could become jammed and could also
cause considerably damage to the windlass and other fittings on the forecastle head.

(xii) Hanging Off An Anchor

Put the anchor in gear, brake off and walk back until anchor is just hanging clear of the
hawse pipe. Send a man over side in a bosun’s chair to pass the end of a 3” rope
messenger through the anchor ring. Attached a mooring wire (back spring) to the
messenger and heaver sufficient wire through to enable the end of the wire to be made
well fast to the bitts. Turn one part of the wire up on the bitts, heave tight and turn the
other part up. (Choose leads for the wire that will not produce too large an angle
between the parts but will allow the anchor to just swing aft clear of the pipe).
Slowly walk back on the cable until the weight of the anchor is taken by the mooring
wire.
Lashed the cable just above the hawse pipe with about 1.5” wire, to prevent further
cable passing down the hawepipe. Pay out cable, flaking it up and down the fo’s’cle

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head deck with aid of chain hooks, until the first joining shackle appears. Place joining
shackle in suitable position for breaking, and break the cable. Connect mooring shackle
to free end of cable.
On arrival at the buoy, send a mooring rope away from each bow to position and hold
the vessels bow close up to the buoy. Send the rope messenger down the hawse pipe, up
through the buoy ring and back to the other bow. Connect a second mooring wire to the
messenger, and heave the sire through the buoy ring and back up the hawse pipe.
Connect this mooring wire to the cable a couple of links from the end and then pay the
cable end down the hawses pipe and heave it out to the buoy. Boatmen will then attach
the cable to the buoy. When cable fast, slack back on wire and lower rope messenger to
boat. Boatmen will then attach messenger to wire and let go wire from cable. Heave
end of wire onboard and secure to form a slip wire ready for leaving. Do not secure slip
wire by dropping eye over bitts as it may be difficult to let go when required. Let go
and take in mooring ropes. Slack down slip wire, and ease out cable until vessel
position as required and with the weight taken by the cable. Harden up the brakes.

Gears to prepare.
Bosun’s chair with gantline mooring shackle
3” rope messenger two mooring ropes
Two mooring wires 1.5” lashing wire
Chain hooks Punches and hammer to break cable

(xiv) Shipping Spare Anchor

It may become necessary to ship the spare in the following cases:

(a) When an anchor has become badly damaged. In this case the old anchor will first
have to be either
(i) brought round and up onto the deck with the cable attached, or
(ii) lowered onto a barge and disconnected, or
(iii) hung off with length of cable left attached to it, or
(iv) Lowered to bottom on cable and then disconnected and left with
length of cable.

(b) Where the cable has carried away and the anchor been left or lost. In this cast the
loss may have been caused by the joining shackle coming adrift, in which case the end
link of the remaining cable may be in good condition and suitable for direct attachment
to the spare anchor.
If however the loss has been caused by the failure of a link within the shackle length,
the remains of that length must be removed and the part of the cable adjacent to the next
joining shackle attached to the spare anchor. The short length of broken cable must be
retained for examination to try and find the cause for the failure.

Procedure for attachment:

(a) Ensure lifting purchase will adequate for anchor + a length of cable. Attach lifting
purchase, release anchor securing arrangements and bring the anchor adjacent to the
shops side where it can be most conveniently be put over. If the spare is stowed on the
opposite side to that on which it is to be fitted, it may be in some case be easier to bring
the cable round the bow than attempt to manoeuvre the anchor over to the other side of
the deck. Remove any portable rails in the vicinity of where the anchor is to be put
over.

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Attach a suitable messenger to the end of the cable and heave the end of the cable round
to the anchor, paying out on the windlass as required. Weight of cable = 0.025 x D2
tons per fathom. D = diameter of cable in inches. Secure cable to deck close by the
anchor, leaving sufficient end of cable to enable it to be conveniently attached to the
anchor, and then let go the messenger.
Attached the cable to the anchor ring with the particular type of attachment provided.

e.g.: Big ‘D’ + spare link + joining shackles. Then let go the deck lashing on cable.

Take the weight on the lifting purchase, life the anchor and swing it over side. Lower
the anchor down to the water, and then by taking up on the cable and slacking back on
the purchase gradually transfer all the weight to the cable. Heave the anchor up to just
below the hawse pipe and then send a man over side on a bosun’s chair to disconnect
the lifting purchase. The man will require a line to attach to the purchase, this line is to
be suitable led, possibly round the stem to the opposite bow, so that weight cab be taken
off of the shackle and then therefore allow him to disconnect easily and safely. The
above method is satisfactory provided the anchor is being over near say No. 1 hatch,
however on some ships for instance a tanker; it may only be possible to put the anchor
over near midship manifold.
In this case modifications of the above method would be required. The cable may be
secure d at several points along the ships side to prevent too much drag on the anchor
when putting it over. The anchor may be lowered right to the bottom with the help of
the long heavy wire pendant or snorter which could then released and slipped and
moved along the shops side. The ship dropping back on the cable she is lying to and
taking in on the one to which the spare has been connected.

(b) If the spare anchor is stowed on a ramp (skids). Bring the end of the cable
round by messenger and attach the end of the cable to the anchor ring as described in
section (a).
Attached suitable and adequate skip ropes (4”) to anchor. Release anchor securing
arrangements. Open brake, let go slip ropes and let anchor run to bottom if in suitable
anchoring depths. Sometimes it may be found due to rusting the anchor will not go
when the slip ropes are released. In this case re-secure the slip ropes and then try and
break the anchor out by one of the following methods:

(1) fitting a hydraulic jack under the inboard fluke and jacking it up.
(2) Securing a manila (not synthetic) mooring line to the anchor and leading it to the
windlass so as to exert a fore or aft pull on the anchor.

In some cases it may be possible to list the ship sufficiently to get the anchor to slip.

(4) Mooring

(i) Open Moor

When a ship is riding to two anchors with a good spread between them, she is said to be
on open moor.
The advantages of the open moor against the single anchor are that it is much stronger
because in addition to twice the holding power that would be achieved if both the

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anchors were leading right ahead. The spread between the anchors prevent yawing and
thus the risk of dragging greatly decreased.

The disadvantages of the open moor against the single anchor are that if dragging is still
not prevented, and the ship is dragging towards some danger such as a lee shore, it takes
longer an is more difficult to get underway.
Another point is that a change of wind direction can cause difficulties when an open
moor unless allowance has previously has been made for the wind shift. (see ‘choice of
anchor’).
A ship originally lying to a single anchor may decide to come to an open moor to reduce
the risk of dragging caused by an increase in wind force, or she may come direct to an
open moor.
A ship may decide to come direct in cases for example where engine trouble forces the
ship to anchor in strong wind (force 8) and heavy weather, or where strong winds are
expected and the ship decides in the lee of the land.

Performing an open moor

Come up heading into the wind, give the ship a sheer to the port, let go the starboard
anchor and anchor buoy, steam across the wind but slightly heading onto it to counteract
leeway, at the same time paying out on the starboard cable and keeping an eye on the
buoy, when about 6 shackles out stop engines, wheel amidship, full astern, as the bow
comes up into the wind let go the port anchor, stop engines, let her come astern holding
onto the starboard anchor and slacking on the port cable until about 6 shackles a out on
the port.
Now harden up both brakes and the ship will lie head into the wind with an even strain
on both cables and with a 60º angle between the cables to prevent yawing.
When leaving an open moor, heave in or stem towards one of the anchors heaving in the
cable of that anchor at the same time, when one of the anchors is aweigh, commence
taking in on the other one.

(ii) Running and Standing Moors

These moorings consist of securing the ship by means of two anchors laid out in
opposite directions.
The object of mooring is to occupy less swinging room than at single anchor. If the ship
has been properly moored with the anchors in line with the stream and with both cables
taut, the ship will pivot on her stem and practically swing in her own length. The
amount of cable allowed out on each anchor should be about the same as would be used
if the ship were at normal single anchor. However because of ebb tide is often stronger
than the flood due to the addition of river water, it may be advisable to screw up say 5
hackles on the upstream anchor and for on the down stream. Adjustment can be made
after mooring to the amount of cable out on each, by slacking on one and taking in on
the other.
This means however that the ship is shifting her berth which may not be acceptable.

Disadvantage
(a) When wind should spring up across the tide so that the ship start riding in any
direction other than in the line of the stream, the ship is liable to drag due to the great
stress imposed on her cables resulting from the wide angle of span between the anchors.

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(b) The ship must always swing on the same side of her two anchors if a foul hawse to
be avoided. To ensure the ship swings the correct way, she may be given a sheer just
before slack water so that the new tide catches her on the stbd quarter.

When unmooring the riding cable is veered and the sleeping cable is shortened in until
the sleeping cable is shortened in until the sleeping anchor is aweigh; the riding cable is
then shortened in. There are two methods of mooring the ship, although the final
position of the ship and the anchors will be same whichever method is chosen:

(a) Standing (Dropping, Ordinary Moor)

(b) Running moor

The running moor is usually preferred because easier more accurate positioning of the
anchors can be obtained, especially in a light cross wind or when the stream is weak.

(iii) Standing (Dropping, Ordinary moor)

Make ready the anchors as for coming to a single anchor.

Stem the tide and steam up under easy headway to a position about one ships length
ahead of the final required position about one ships length ahead of the final required
position. Stop engines. As the tide commences to carry the ship astern, let go the
offshore or lee anchor and buoy. Pay out cable and let the ship drop astern until a scope
of cable is out to equal to the sum of that required on the two anchors, hen hold on and
bring her up.
Then give the ship a sheer across the stream and if necessary steam across so as that the
inshore or weather anchor can be let go in the correct position, Let go.
Then heave away on the lee cable and pay out on the weather cable, going ahead on the
engines as the necessary to assist in heaving the cable, until there is say 5 out on the
upstream anchor and 4 out on the downstream. Hold on, bring up with a shackle just
fwd of the windlass (6th and 5th in above cases).
If a light wind is blowing across the tide and this wind continues, then by letting go the
lee anchor first, the wind will at slack water swing the ship in such a direction that a
clear hawse will be maintained.
If the ship is to moor close to a bank, then by letting go the offshore anchor fist at slack
water the ship can be made to swing away from the bank and in doing so maintain a
clear hawse. The ship riding to the offshore anchor always.
In the case of no wind or close bam, it is immaterial which anchor is let go first.

(iv) Running Moor

Make ready the anchors as for coming to single anchor.

Stem the tide and stem up with good steerage way to a position about ship’s length
astern of the final required position. Let go the onshore or weather anchor and buoy,
and continue ahead at the same time paying out on the cable.
The course steered being such as to allow for any leeway, and therefore make good the
course along the intended line of the anchors. When there is a scope of cable out
approaching that required for the tow anchors, say 9 shackles.
Stop engines and pay out the nine, so that ship’s way over the ground is stopped when
there is about 9 out and taut leading astern.

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When the tide commences taking her astern over the ground, let go the lee or offshore
anchor and buoy.
Then by paying out on one cable and taking in on the other, middle the ship between the
two anchors. Screw up with shackles just fwd of the windlass.

(v) Stream Anchor

If the ship is to anchor in a tideway in confined waters, it may be necessary to secure the
stern with a stream anchor to prevent the stern swinging at the turn of tide.
A steam anchor may also be used whilst at anchor in narrow waters to prevent the wind
swinging the stern towards some danger such as shallows, or other ships. Some ships
are supplied with an anchor specifically for this purpose, its weight being about one
third of the bower anchors. This stream anchor maybe stowed in a stern hawsepipe and
fitted with a length of chain cable or it may be stowed near the stern where it can easily
be swung outboard by derrick or davit and used with a wire. Occasional ships not
supplied with a stream anchor find they require the use of one and in this case use must
be made of the spare bowed and a mooring wire. When proceeding in narrow waters,
especially with tide astern with fog likely, it may be considered prudent to have the stern
anchor ready for use at any time.
In this case the stream anchor will have to be prepared at a place such as a safe
anchorage, prior to entering the narrow waters. At the safe anchorage, prepare a
mooring wire in the vicinity of where the spare anchor is to be put over side. If the
anchor is on a ramp, connect one end of mooring wire to the anchor and pay out a bight
of wire overboard sufficient to allow the end to well reach bottom. Then make the wire
fast. Attach sufficient rope lashings to hold the anchor and then release anchor securing
arrangements. Let go ship ropes and let anchor run to bottom. If a derrick or crane is to
be used to lift the spare anchor, bring anchor adjacent to ship side and connect one end
of the mooring wire. Pay out bight of wire overboard and then make fast. Connect
lifting purchase to anchor by means of sufficient turns of rope lashing. Lift anchor and
swing over side. Cut lashing with knife on a man helper. Take other end of mooring
wire aft with the help of a rope manager. Release wire form deck, heave up on riding
cable and take up slack on mooring wire through the stern lead until the anchor is
directly under the stern lead.
Ensure wire connected correctly to barrel on winch or capstan and the leads are good
before actually heaving the anchor off the bottom. Heave up until the anchor ring is
positioned just below the stern lead. Then pass sufficient rope lashings from bitts,
through anchor ring and back to bitts. Come back easy on the wire until lashing takes
the weight. Next pay sufficient mooring wire in a bight outboard to allow the anchor to
well reach the bottom, and then secure to bitts. Bring the bight of wire up from the
water to ensure it is clear of propeller and secure outboard in loops with rope yarn.
Attached anchor buoy and the anchor is now ready. In order to let go, release the buoy,
stand by the mooring wire, throw off or cut off the rope lashing to let go the anchor.
Ease out on the mooring wire as required until ship suitably held and then make well
fast. To take the anchor, take wire to power and heave away. Come astern on engines to
help as required. Heave anchor right back up to stern lead and secure as before. Take in
buoy and proceed. Reverse process will replace spare anchor in correct stowed position
on board, when no longer required at the stern.

Note: If spare bower is to be used as stream anchor at a present anchored position. If there is
sufficient room astern, just drop back on the riding cable until the spare anchor is

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abreast of the required position for the stern anchor, and let go the anchor as before. In
this cast the job of hanging the anchor off the stern is avoided.

Anchoring

Planning

1. Wind and Tidal effects

2. Depth of Water
3. Manoeuvring room
4. Briefing officers
5. Navigate by eye
6. Final heading
7. Anchoring on Final Heading
8. Basic Anchoring

 Can be done easily or get very complicated

 Many ways of anchoring
 No one method of anchoring for all seasons
o Consider the number of combinations of weather, ship types, anchorage
location
 Must know the manoeuvring characteristics of your own ship, i.e. loaded/light,
under keel clearance, bow/stern thrusters, etc.
o Also know when “not to anchor” – crowded anchorage, adverse weather –
maybe require tug to assist, or lay-off and wait till conditions improved.

Anchor in Steps

2 phases: - 1. Seamanship 2. Shiphandling

Shiphandling – 4 phases

1. Approach 2. Placement 3. Laying out 4. Brought Up

It is easier to think of them separately, then approaching it as one complete issue and
you must “think ahead” so that each steps leads smoothly to the next.

Factors to consider for anchoring but same factors should now be considered for
“shiphandling”.

Important to have an alternative for “getting out” before entering anchorage in case
things do not work out, such as leaving anchorage too late, then drop anchor and ride to
short stay till you sort things out.

2 anchors forward like 2 tugs forward!

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