You are on page 1of 10

3D Printing with the CR-10 and CR-10S

Version 1.0
Contents
Introduction ..................................................................................................................................... 3
CR-10 and CR-10S features............................................................................................................ 3
Assembly......................................................................................................................................... 4
Adjusting and Maintenance: ........................................................................................................... 4
Bed issues........................................................................................................................................ 4
Warped glass ................................................................................................................................... 5
Bed adhesion ................................................................................................................................... 5
How do bed adhesives work? ..................................................................................................... 5
Essential upgrades (leveling knobs, part cooling vent, bed cable strain relief) .............................. 6
Calibrating e-steps and PID tuning: ................................................................................................ 6
Spare parts to buy............................................................................................................................ 6
Nozzles – MK8 ........................................................................................................................... 6
Theristors (100k)......................................................................................................................... 6
Heater Cores................................................................................................................................ 7
Glass Mirror Tiles (12” for CR-10/10S) ..................................................................................... 7
Kapton tape ................................................................................................................................. 7
Cotton Insulation for hotend ....................................................................................................... 7
Filament ...................................................................................................................................... 7
Troubleshooting .............................................................................................................................. 7
Tips ................................................................................................................................................. 7
Using a different hot end or more heat resistant bowden tube: ...................................................... 8
Other nozzle sizes: .......................................................................................................................... 8
Nozzles made from other materials: ............................................................................................... 8
Filament properties ......................................................................................................................... 9
Clearing a jam/clog ......................................................................................................................... 9
Start and end scripts: ....................................................................................................................... 9
Printing with different filament types: ............................................................................................ 9
Abs .............................................................................................................................................. 9
Nylon: ......................................................................................................................................... 9
Polycarbonate .............................................................................................................................. 9
Petg ........................................................................................................................................... 10
Flexible ..................................................................................................................................... 10
Enclosures: .................................................................................................................................... 10
Asking for help : ........................................................................................................................... 10
2|Page
Introduction
This document is a compilation of information that has been obtained from many
sources such as my personal experience, tips from other users, information from
YouTube videos, etc. This document is not intended to be a troubleshooting guide
although I have included links to some items I have found helpful. There is also a
section called “Tips” that may help as well. This is a living document that I intend on
updating as I obtain appropriate content. If you have suggestions please feel free to PM
me on Facebook messenger. I would like to thank Victor Van Hove who generously
contributed his personal notes to help with this effort and the many people that have
posted valuable information on the CR-10 forums. If you would like to check out my
YouTube channel for helpful information, you can locate it at
https://www.youtube.com/c/Magic3dPrinting

CR-10 and CR-10S features


Build dimensions for the CR-10/10S: 300x300x400 (300 wide x 300 deep x 400 tall)
Number of Z axis: CR-10: 1 CR-10S: 2
Other: The CR-10S has a filament run-out feature as well as the dual Z lead
screws
Firmware options:
The CR-10S has approximately twice the memory of the CR-10 so if
additional features such as Mesh leveling and others are important
to you then it’s recommended that you purchase the CR-10S
If you decide to upgrade the Marlin firmware in the CR-10 you will need
to install a bootloader (which is Pre-Installed in the CR-10S
therefore not required). If you choose to install a bootloader on your
CR-10 it will require opening the control box and wiring a
programmer to it such as the Arduino. If you are not comfortable
doing this then you should probably purchase the CR-10S
Flashing the bootloader on a CR-10:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Flashing-a-Bootloader-to-the-CR-
10/
A bootloader is not required on the CR-10S as it has already been
installed.
If the bootloader needs to be replaced on the CR-10S:
http://wspublishing.net/avr-c/restoring-arduino-mega-bootloader/
Also search for https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&hl=en-
us&q=how%20to%20burn%20bootloader%20arduino%20mega%202560
%20with%20uno&ved=0ahUKEwiPkbeamJTZAhURq1kKHf3NBQ4QsKwB
CEwoADAE&biw=768&bih=985

3|Page
Assembly
Basic Assembly of the CR-10:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cdkb_ILCptw&t=0s&list=PLB59cKscyvCI-
hWzyebsDOa0karLoFZMB&index=16

Assembly of the CR-10S:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAJOjWeyMJg&t=73s

Adjusting and Maintenance:


Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKPYEwvILSs
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPyaEi7_fFM

adjusting the X axis bar on the right side of the CR-10


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCAzrpZgCgA&t=0s&list=PLB59cKscyvCI-
hWzyebsDOa0karLoFZMB&index=25

Making sure the X axis bar is level on the CR-10S


First either turn off the power to the printer or disable the steppers from the control
box menu. Manually rotate the right Z-axis threaded rods until the X-axis beam is
parallel to a bed. This may happen periodically, but it's a pretty simple and quick fix.
Use a ruler to measure between the beam and bed to see when it's close to parallel. If
you follow the advice here and it still keeps falling out of level, you may have to adjust
the voltage going to one of the motors.

Bed issues
Leveling methods :
One method is to print single layer pads around the bed (in the center and 4 corners)
so that you can visually check the level. Tacblades has produced a video
demonstrating this. The code for his process can be found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2599785
His video is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkZUAyTxU1Q&list=PLB59cKscyvCI-
hWzyebsDOa0karLoFZMB&index=48&t=0s

Paper Method:
The CR 10 is fairly easy to set up and get printing. There are actually four leveling
screws, one under each corner of the bed. This routine is: preheat the bed temp (60 c
for PLA) and the nozzle temp to (200 c for PLA), select auto home from the menu on
the control box, select disable steppers, manually place nozzle over first level screw,
adjust the knob underneath until standard sheet of paper rubs in between nozzle and
bed, repeat under remaining three screws, repeat this process at least once, go back to
home position, start print. You may want to use either tape or an adhesive such as
glue, hairspray or Magigoo. See the section on bed adhesion.

4|Page
Warped glass
Some of the glass sheets that come with these printers have a slight warp due to the
tempering process that is used. If you find that this is an issue for you I recommend
that you purchase a glass mirror tile to replace it. A 12” mirror almost covers the bed
on both the CR-10 and the CR-10S. you will see slight edges of the aluminum bed
exposed but the mirror does cover the entire print area.
Here is a video talking about the glass and a couplke of other minor issues:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEWz-Tp0Mik

This video talks about a temporary fix if you are anxious to get started:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOhBYTQoTi4

Bed adhesion
(part of this section is an excerpt from https://www.goprint3d.co.uk/blog/what-are-
bed-adhesives-3d-printing/ )
One of the issues that people face when 3D printing is getting their prints to stick to
the build plate. If a print does not stick to the build plate properly, then it could move
during the print process which will cause it to fail.

Manufacturers have, of course, devised remedies for this. The MakerBot Replicator+
and Mini+, for example, use 'Grip Surface' sheets on the build plate for better bed
adhesion and reduced warping and curling. Some manufacturer's have taken a
simpler route, though - MarkForged recommend people use an Elmer's Glue Stick to
create a sticky layer on the build plate.
The simple truth of bed adhesives - whether they are cheap glues or expensive tapes -
is that all of them have the same aim: To prevent warping, curling, print failure and to
reduce waste. It is important to point out though that not all materials require a bed
adhesive to stick to the build plate. PLA, for instance, adheres well to a heated build
plate without adhesive. However, when glue is used, the risk of warping and curling is
reduced considerably.

How do bed adhesives work?


Simply put, bed adhesives work by forming a stickier layer for prints to adhere to. In
the case of heated build plates (which are necessary for printing materials with a
higher melting point than PLA), hard materials like ABS and CPE can warp even with
support structure. The reason for this is the smooth glass plate with the introduction
of heat; the print material sometimes doesn't cool quick enough to be strong. By
introducing a layer of glue, print-bed adhesion is improved, and the glue also acts as a
layer of protection for the glass.

5|Page
Adhesives also eliminate the risk of print movement. If a print moves just a little
during the print process, then it will fail. We regularly receive questions from people
asking why their prints keep failing, and it is more often than not because they aren't
using an adhesive on their build plate.

Examples of adhesives:
Extra hold hairspray such as Aquanet, glue, Magigoo, pei sheet, buildtac sheet, etc.

Some people that have mastered the ability to perfectly level their bed have been able
to print on a bare glass bed that has been cleaned with alcohol. This is not
recommended initially until you have gotten the knack of leveling well.

Essential upgrades (leveling knobs, part cooling vent, bed cable strain relief)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2508323
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUdOl3RPBSo&t=115s

Calibrating e-steps and PID tuning:


The calibration of your printers e-steps is important because it ensures that the
printer is extruding the proper amount of filament. Calibrating the PID enables your
printer to maintain temperatures closely rather than the temperatures bouncing
around. Please note that the insulation around the aluminum heater block assists in
this as well.
Here is a video that will walk you through this process:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y&list=PLB59cKscyvCI-
hWzyebsDOa0karLoFZMB&index=35&t=13s

Spare parts to buy


Links have been added as an example only. These parts can be purchased from many other
sellers.

Nozzles – MK8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781ZCVLR/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?i
e=UTF8&psc=1

Theristors (100k)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X3R9S8L/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0
6X3R9S8L&pd_rd_wg=YnDHg&pd_rd_r=48FJCTEQ9Y3MACSR0MA9&pd_rd_w=144dR

6|Page
Heater Cores
https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Reprap-Ceramic-Cartridge-
Printer/dp/B00Q9Z1JUU/ref=pd_sim_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00Q9Z1JU
U&pd_rd_r=48FJCTEQ9Y3MACSR0MA9&pd_rd_w=MD4YW&pd_rd_wg=YnDHg&psc=1
&refRID=48FJCTEQ9Y3MACSR0MA9

Glass Mirror Tiles (12” for CR-10/10S)


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-12-in-x-12-in-Plain-Edge-Bath-Mirrors-
6-Pack-81175/205513215 (Also available at Lowes and Ikea)

Kapton tape
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W3FAFP0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?i
e=UTF8&psc=1

Cotton Insulation for hotend (applied with Kapton tape)


https://www.amazon.com/WAHHING-heating-cotton-printer-
insulation/dp/B01LAYCRAA/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LAYC
RAA&pd_rd_r=KSERVCJHH6JRGFFTCSR4&pd_rd_w=chCXQ&pd_rd_wg=OMN6e&psc
=1&refRID=KSERVCJHH6JRGFFTCSR4

Filament (the CCTree sample spool that it comes with will not last long.)
Start with PLA as it is one of the easiest filaments to print with.

Troubleshooting
Online Guides:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-
troubleshooting/?utm_source=Welcome

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide\

Tips
When saving gcode to sd card in Microsoft Windows make sure to use the Safe
Removal to ensure the entire file is written before you remove it.
Z lead rods can be checked to see if they are bent by rolling them across a flat surface.
Make sure grub screws (all 4) on the Z coupler are all tight and the Z lead rod does not
touch the motor shaft...leave a small gap to allow the coupler to flex.
Make sure any decorative strips don’t rub.
Z-hop will help to prevent supports from being knocked over
If your printer behaves erratically such as menus changing, temperatures changing by
themselves, etc. Put electrical tape on the ribbon cables in the control box.
Some times during shipping wires in the control box can get loosened or disconnected.
7|Page
Printing a temperature tower will help finding the correct printing temperatures for
your filament.
Octoprint can be used to remotely access your printer to check it via a camera, start
and stop print jobs and more:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKmLAnb4KrA&t=1684s
If you are finding that you need to frequently level the bed or leveling knobs fall off this
is typically caused by the springs under the bed being extended too far...add washers
to the screws to add tension.
Two color printing with Simplify3d:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=PLB59cKscyvCI-
hWzyebsDOa0karLoFZMB&v=cJfAqvmHyfU
Converting 2D pictures to svg format for extruding – check out a free program called
Inkscape

Using a different hot end or more heat resistant bowden tube:


For some materials you may need another type of hot end for higher temperatures
since the stock bowden tubing is only good to about 250C before it begins to deform.
There are several options such as replacing the bowden tube with Capricorn XS tubing
which is tolerant to higher temperatures. There are also other options such as all
metal hotends such as the E3D V6 or the Microswiss. A third option is to use the E3D
Lite6 with Capricorn tubing since it allows the tubing to travel all the way through the
hot end till it touches the nozzle just like the stock setup.

Other nozzle sizes:


Nozzles with another diameter
If you want to print more accurately you may want to consider a nozzle with a smaller
diameter. The CR-10 comes with a .4mm nozzle so you may want to experiment with a
.3 or .2mm nozzle.

If you want to print faster you can use a nozzle with a bigger diameter. This way you
can save time with printing if you want to print bigger parts. But this will result in
rougher parts. Larger nozzles such as a .5 or .6 can be used but be careful going much
larger or the extruder may not be able to feed the filament fast enough to keep up the
proper flow.

Nozzles made from other materials:


Some materials such as wood, metal filled are others are more abrasive than
conventional filaments like PLA, ABS, PTEG and Glow-in-the Dark which means that
they will wear out a standard copper nozzle faster. If you only plan to use these
filaments on occasion this isn’t too much of concern but an entire roll of one of these
abrasive filaments will probably wear out a nozzle creating a larger opening and
degrading the quality of your prints. If you are planning on printing a lot of these
types of materials then consider hardened steel or stainless steel nozzles. Alos keep in

8|Page
mind that since these abrasive materials some of them may clog easier so consider a
.5mm nozzle.

Filament properties
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/

Clearing a jam/clog
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8uvh6kvr54&t=312s:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTR14EDTwVs

Clearing a clog in the nozzle


Insulating the head bed: https://youtu.be/Il4WCnaBSXg
Upgrading to dual Z classic method: https://youtu.be/uJKDMQ5It4E
Upgrading to dual Z mechanical method: https://youtu.be/DqZTLbVdhE0
Use a heat gun can help getting the bed up to temperature for ABS.
Lithophanes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfiwdVMa-UA&list=PLB59cKscyvCI-
hWzyebsDOa0karLoFZMB&index=31
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRdMwuBQQ0U&list=PLB59cKscyvCI-
hWzyebsDOa0karLoFZMB&index=20

Start and end scripts:


Basic concepts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cyj3KVynag

Printing with different filament types:


Abs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBJk3URhXAo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jM82Vtt8wQ

Nylon:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=PLB59cKscyvCI-
hWzyebsDOa0karLoFZMB&t=56s&v=V6WpSjm0XHc

Polycarbonate
https://www.youtube.com/winsutal

9|Page
atch?v=431XL728GYg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2E6xTOFVTI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxOd_cvjH9g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZRkiSso1Rk

Petg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_adY2K-YIc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Mmk0pyqJDE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qif070PErNU

Flexible
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTJz6vMvtJ8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEMLmPiUdus
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBbsDQWfrwA

Enclosures:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqlWS4Tzb9Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5520E3zZoI8&list=PLB59cKscyvCI-
hWzyebsDOa0karLoFZMB&index=15

Asking for help :


If you need additional help first do some online research. Nothing will help you learn
more than research and trial and error. If you can’t find an answer THEN post
something in the facebook group but dont forget to give the necesary information. Like
material, nozzle and bed temperature and print speed, and also type of bed adhesion
being used.

10 | P a g e

You might also like