36 th annual

FOOD & WINE

CLASSIC WEEKEND

WHAT TO DO! WHAT TO EAT! WHAT TO DRINK!

2 FOOD AND WINE • 2018
 Chefs Club
Aspen
Presents:
MATTHEW
ACCARRINO
of San Francisco’s Michelin-Starred SPQR
AFTER AN EXTREMELY SUCCESSFUL ROLLOUT AT THE
FLAGSHIP LOCATION IN NEW YORK, CHEFS CLUB IS
INTRODUCING THE CHEF RESIDENCY PROGRAM IN ASPEN.
THIS REVOLUTIONARY APPROACH TO FINE-DINING INVITES
CHEFS FROM ALL AROUND THE WORLD TO BRING THEIR
CULINARY VISION TO LIFE FOR A LIMITED PERIOD OF TIME.

JUNE 15- SEPTEMBER 6

Reservations available on OpenTable

or by calling 970-429-9581

Chefs Club Aspen (located in the St. Regis Hotel)

315 E Dean St. Aspen, CO 81611
W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
3
 welcome
THE 36TH ANNUAL FOOD & WINE CLASSIC IN ASPEN

6 STAR POWER
master chefs up the wattage at this year’s classic

10 RUNNING WITH THE CHEFS

bragging rights are on the line in the charity 5k

13 CHANGES AT ALTITUDE
there have been big changes in aspen’s dining scene since last year's f&w

16 THE BEST NEW CHEFS TURNS 30

three decades ago a game-changing award was launched. this year’s crop.

20 BRIGHT LIGHTS BIG CITY

from an austin legend’s mountain top bbq to the best of brunch

24 SEMINARS – FOOD
chefs share ways to amp up your cooking chops

26 FYI – SEMINAR SCHEDULE

the ROOKIES… your look at the who, what and when

27 FYI – SEMINAR MAP

your look at the where
We were the newbies at last year’s Food & Wine Classic, and our goal was to take in everything
the weekend has to offer: inside the tent and out.
28 SEMINARS – WINE
After soliciting tips from our colleagues, we were ready. As we walked up the stairs in the St.
from bubbles to rosé, the experts pour perfection
Regis courtyard for the opening event, the editor said under his breath: I know I’m the only guy here
wearing a shirt from Costco. 30 FOOD & WINE’S NEW CHIEF
From that night through the Sunday brunch, we found the weekend wasn’t about pretentiousness. hunter lewis takes the reins

The Classic is about passion and celebration … lots of celebrations.

Simmons, Zimmern, Oldman, we knew of them, but now we know them.
34 LITTLE PIGGY GROWS UP
heritage fire returns to snowmass with a live-fire feast
Colorful, vibrant food and drinks, jovial faces and an energy comparable to X Games. We have
covered X Games, World Cup skiing, Super Bowls. Classic weekend in Aspen, the Whites, Vonns 38 GLOBAL JUICE
and Mannings of their profession are together and they love it just as deeply as the athletes. 'wines from spain' returns for 26th year

David Krause- Aspen Times editor & Anna Stonehouse- Aspen Times photographer 44 NAILING IT
wine presenters tell you how it’s done

48 SHE'S SPICY!
the VETERAN… women rock aspen's food scene

It’s hard to recall, but I think I attended my first Classic more than 25 years ago. But I remember it
contributors
was fun, and that it was something I wanted to be a part of.
Now I know why this annual event hit such a deep chord back then: Not only is Food & Wine PUBLISHER
weekend about consuming all the wine you can drink in a short Grand Tasting (me, back then) but SAMANTHA JOHNSTON
it’s about discovering the ever-changing and always delightful world of food and drink (me, today).
EDITOR
Even more important to this longtime local, though, is that the Food & Wine Classic marks the
DAVID KRAUSE
start of summer in Aspen. I test-drive new dresses at parties. I taste beer, wine and spirits that would
otherwise never be part of my repertoire. MAGAZINE EDITOR
Food & Wine is the ultimate celebration of all that makes life good (really good). To this simple JEANNE McGOVERN
truth, I raise a glass — and hope you will do the same during this 36th annual Food & Wine
ART DIRECTION & DESIGN
Classic in Aspen.
JORDAN LUGIBIHL
Jeanne McGovern- Aspen Times Weekly/Magazines editor
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
KELLY J. HAYES, LINDA HAYES, AMANDA RAE, ANDREW TRAVERS

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER
ANNA STONEHOUSE
on the cover on ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

36 th annual
social ASHTON HEWITT

FOOD & WINE MARKETING AND MAGAZINE DIRECTORRE

CLASSIC WEEKEND For daily updates,
Bottles galore insights and event AMY LAHA
will be chilled coverage, follow The DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
and popped this Aspen Times’ social DAVID LAUGHREN
weekend around accounts on Instagram
Aspen. (@aspentimes), ACCOUNT MANAGERS
Facebook and Twitter TIM KURNOS, IGOR LARAY, BETH ALBERT

WHAT TO DO! WHAT TO EAT! WHAT TO DRINK!

credit: Anna (@TheAspenTimes) and CONCEPTUALISTS
Stonehouse at aspentimes.com.
LINDA HAYES AND KELLY J. HAYES

4 FOOD AND WINE • 2018

 HOME
FURNISHINGS
STORE
&
ASID INTERIOR
DESIGN STUDIO

“Innovative Design & Retail Therapy for the Home”

530 BASALT AVE, BASALT • 970.927.6556 • CATHERSHOME.COM

W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
5
 setting the table
HEADLINERS

STAR POWER
The Food & Wine Classic in Aspen hosts a cavalcade of culinary
stars for its 36th edition

BY KELLY J. HAYES

THE FOOD & WINE CLASSIC HAS ALWAYS BEEN ABOUT THREE THINGS: ASPEN, PARTIES AND PERSONALITIES.
THIS YEAR’S ROSTER OFFERS UP A VERITABLE WHO’S-WHO OF AMERICA’S CULINARY AND BEVERAGE LANDSCAPE.
HERE ARE SOME OF THE STARS WHO WILL BE SHINING:

JACQUES AND CLAUDINE MARCUS SAMUELSSON AARON FRANKLIN ANDREW ZIMMERN

PÉPIN
Everyone’s favorite father-
daughter team, the duo
has co-hosted "Jacques
Pépin's Kitchen: Cooking
With Claudine" and "Jacques
Pépin's Kitchen: Encore With
Claudine." All of their public
television shows have received
James Beard Awards.
The acclaimed chef behind
many restaurants worldwide,
including Red Rooster Harlem,
Streetbird Rotisserie in NYC.
The host of “BBQ with
Franklin,” owner and chief
firestarter at Austin’s Franklin
Barbecue, and widely regarded
as one of the most influential
pitmasters in the U.S.
A three-time James Beard
Award-winning TV personality,
chef, writer, teacher and
host of the “Bizarre Foods”
franchise on The Travel
Channel.

6 FOOD AND WINE • 2018 PHOTOS COURTESY OF FOOD & WINE

 ANNE BURRELL
Celebrity chef and host of the
Food Network's “Worst Cooks
in America,” she mentors a
team of wannabe cooks in
serious need of some pointers.
HUGH ACHESON
A chef and food writer who
lives in Athens, Georgia, Food
& Wine magazine named him
Best New Chef in 2002 and
the James Beard Foundation
awarded him Best Chef
Southeast in 2012.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF FOOD & WINE
RICHARD BLAIS
Most recognizable as the
winner of Bravo's "Top Chef
All-Stars", he has also built
a collection of restaurant
concepts, including FLIP
Burger and The Crack Shack.
MING TSAI
The James Beard Award-
winning chef/owner of Blue
Dragon in Boston. An Emmy
Award-winner, Ming hosts
PBS-TV's “Simply Ming,” now
in its 15th season.
TYLER FLORENCE
The creator of an empire of
restaurants, olive oils, wines,
cutlery and cookware, gourmet
food and a cooking app,
Yumavore — all in the past 10
years.
JONATHAN WAXMAN
A native Californian who long
ago mentored with Alice
Waters at Berkeley's legendary
Chez Panisse, he is the chef/
owner of Barbuto and Jams in
NYC.
STEPHANIE IZARD
The executive chef/partner
of three of Chicago's most-
celebrated restaurants,
including the Girl & the Goat
and Little Goat Diner, she also
took the title of Iron Chef on
Food Network's "Iron Chef
Gauntlet.”
GEOFFREY ZAKARIAN
Chef and restaurateur Zakarian
is also a co-host of “The
Kitchen” and a regular judge
on “Chopped.” He recently
launched two new restaurants,
Point Royal and Counter Point,
in Hollywood, Florida.
W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
7
SATURDAY, JUNE 16
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W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M

2:00-4:00PM

2018 FOOD & WINE
CELEBRITY CHEF 5K CHARITY RUN
THE SCENE
You fly in from New York on the final
flight, Thursday night before the Classic
begins. You meet some friends for a few
celebratory pops at the hotel. You’re juiced
because you’ve registered to run the Food
& Wine Celebrity Chef 5K Charity Run the
next morning.
It’s now 6:30 a.m. Friday, and you’re
working on maybe three hours of sleep.
It’s 34 degrees and you’re freezing in your
running shorts and cool race tee. Over there,
10 FOOD AND WINE • 2018
starting line
RUN FOR THE MONEY
A Classic Wake-up Call
BY KELLY J. HAYES
looking all Olympian, is Marcus Samuelsson
(when does that guy ever sleep?). Stretching
like a sprinter on the still frosty grass is
Richard Blais (hasn’t he run, like, five NYC
Marathons since he got famous on "Top
Chef"?). Nearby, leaner than a glass of dry
Chablis, is Bobby Stuckey, the wine guy from
Boulder who doubles as a marathoner.
You can’t catch your breath and suddenly
it occurs to you, as Emeril would say, that
you kicked it up a notch. Yep, you’re 8,000
feet higher than when you woke up yesterday.
This is starting to seem like a bad idea.
 But then the sun rises. Your face warms. above: You never

The mountains glow alpine green. The know who you

might be running
crowd surges toward the start line and you
next to Friday
get juiced all over again. You run 3.1 miles morning to open
on a gorgeous morning, stride for stride the Food & Wine
with many of the most famous chefs and Classic weekend.
winemakers on Earth.
left: Running
For seven years now, one of the most
through Aspen's
memorable events of the Food & Wine streets early in
Classic has been the annual Celebrity Chef the morning is
5K Charity Run. It takes locals and visitors an inspiring way
alike past multimillion-dollar Victorian
homes, across the raging Roaring Fork River
and back up the bucolic Rio Grande Trail
Sign Up! to start the day
and even make
some plans.

before the welcome finish. It sets the stage

for the Classic and those who brave the The 2018 Food & Wine Celebrity Chef 5K Charity Run is open to
course before the opening sessions get big- everyone attending the Classic, as well as all members of the
time bragging rights.
Aspen community. Please spread the word, and register today!
A WHOLESOME CAUSE
DATE: Friday, June 15
But beyond all that, the race is a fruitful
fundraiser for Wholesome Wave. LOCATION: Rio Grande Park
"The Food & Wine 5K charity race is one RACE START TIME: 7 a.m.
of the highlights of the weekend,” said Michel
Nischan, founder and CEO of the nonprofit
SIGN UP: https://runsignup.com/Race/CO/Aspen/FW5K
organization. “I'm astonished by how many
chefs show up — after a long night of
celebration — to run at altitude!” Over 300
people run, and the race is open to everyone,
passholder or not. “The charity 5K is my favorite way to kick off
“We are absolutely thrilled that proceeds
support Wholesome Wave's work in
providing nearly 1 million low-income
the Food & Wine weekend. How often do you
Americans with produce-purchasing power,”
Nischan continued. “Whether through
get to race against Marcus Samuelsson before
Wholesome Rx, our fruit and vegetable
prescription concept, or by doubling food attending one of his seminars? And because the
stamps when spent on fruits and vegetables
at participating farmers markets and race is Friday morning, a lot of the participants
grocery retailers in the Wholesome Wave
network, Food & Wine's support — and
the runners’ — over the years has allowed
are visitors, giving us locals that hometown
us to make fruits and vegetables possible
for people struggling with urban and rural
high-altitude advantage.” - Christine Benedetti
poverty in 49 states."
It is the classic way to start the Classic. (past Charity 5K Winner)

PHOTOS BY EUGENE CALDONES W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M

11
12 FOOD AND WINE • 2018

CHANGES IN ALTITUDE
A flurry of openings inspires new adventures in Aspen dining and imbibing
I
f you haven’t visited Aspen since last
Food & Wine weekend, welcome back
and buckle up! Locals can tell you that
much has changed on the restaurant
scene, but change is good — trust us.
While a handful of beloved haunts are gone
forever (R.I.P. Peach’s, bb’s, Over Easy, Justice
Snow’s), plenty of new joints are poised to
transform downtown. There are a pair of recently
minted brewery taprooms, fresh options for coffee
and breakfast, Asian fare galore, one hard-rock
cocktail bar, a celebrity chef residency program,
plus a girl-gone-wild speakeasy opening soon.
PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE
insight
LOCAL MOTION
BY AMANDA RAE
WHERE THE BEER FLOWS
Last fall, Aspen Brewing Company (ABC)
announced the closing of its postage-stamp-
sized taproom. One block over, Peach’s Corner
Café closed abruptly. Panic ensued — until
ABC owner Duncan Clauss revealed that Aspen
Tap would open in the former Peach’s space.
Nearly three times larger than ABC’s old
tasting room, the plus is the prime patio
seating with an Aspen Mountain view.
The bar boasts 15 ABC brews on tap, many
exclusively (including the summer seasonal
Cougar launching this weekend), as well as
wine, Colorado spirits, soda and kombucha.
From the kitchen comes bratwurst,
bruschetta, beer-brined chicken tacos, kale
Caesar and more by chef Graham Williams
(formerly of shuttered Town in Carbondale).
Daily breakfast service at 8 a.m. features Rock
Canyon Coffee espresso, Louis Swiss and Sweet
Coloradough pastries, smoothies and hot dishes.
The Aspen Public House now commands
the bustling Wheeler Opera House space that
was previously home to Justice Snow’s. A
downtown outpost of Capitol Creek Brewery in
Basalt, the “New American upscale gastropub”
W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
13
 insight
LOCAL MOTION
above: Local Coffee House has given java lovers a whole new
place to get their caffeine fix.
right:Jing, in the former Asie space on Main Street, is serving
up a fresh array of Asian-inspired cuisine including to-die-for
sliders.
below, top to bottom: A selection of entrees from Jing; LOCAL
chef whips up some delicious food; One of many take-out
delights at the new Tanuki To Go.
serves apps, salads, burgers and entrees by chef
Robbie Kostrba for breakfast, lunch, dinner
and weekend brunch, along with eight draught
beers, wine and cocktails. Exposed 130-year-
old brick walls and 30 feet of community tables
lend a vibe fit for a vibrant late-night scene.
LIVING LOCAL
Helping to fill Aspen’s caffeine cup is a
cool coffee shop called LOCAL inside Maker
+ Place. Influenced by Amsterdam hybrid
stores, where shopping and workspace
converge with hospitality, LOCAL occupies
a corner of the chic boutique that curates
home goods, design ware, jewelry and gifts
from craftspeople around the world.
Lounge on couches or at the community
tables while sipping Carbondale’s small-batch
Cilundu Coffee and noshing on avocado
toast, quinoa-veggie bowls, forbidden black
rice porridge or Boogie’s tuna melt. Following
the Maker + Place philosophy, everything is
made with ingredients curated from Roaring
Fork Valley farmers, ranchers and artisans.
Marble Bar Aspen, in the Hyatt, is shaping up
to be rock steady. Made of stone from namesake
Marble, Colorado, the bar is a fitting spot to
enjoy summer cocktails showcasing Carbondale’s
Marble Distilling Co. award-winning spirits.
Sample infusions of seasonal fruits and herbs,
plus newly released Fightin’ Whiskey — made
from triticale, an Italian wheat-rye hybrid
grown locally. Classic weekend, the signature
Moonlight Bonfire Iced EXpresso cocktail
will provide a quick jolt in between events.
Never been to Kemo Sabe? It’s worth a trip
for the impressive 1863 bar, imported from
Denver, Pennsylvania, and installed upstairs
14 FOOD AND WINE • 2018
when the Western outfitter moved locations
on Galena Street in September. The cowboy
mecca might sell custom hats, boots, jewelry,
clothing and vintage ephemera, but its new
mission is to create a party. Woody Creek
Distillers, a partner of the haberdasher, may be
on hand over the weekend to help do just that.
ASIAN INFUSED
“We want to bring the island to the
mountains,” says Paula Rungsawang, chef and
co-owner of Tiki Mana Island Grill, which has
opened next door to her already popular Thai
eatery, Bangkok Happy Bowl. Tiki Mana prepares
Hawaiian poke bowls, grilled meats and fish,
fish ‘n’ chips and a plethora of island specialties
— many vegan — for breakfast, lunch and
dinner. A colorful happy hour daily (4-6 p.m.),
features tropical drinks and coconut shrimp
served by bartenders in flowered shirts, ‘natch.
After a $1.2 million renovation by owners
Charlie Huang and Frank Lu, Asie on Main Street
has morphed into Jing (“gold” in Chinese). Focus
is on Peking duck, lobster dumplings and Thai
basil chicken, and there’s a raw bar staffed by
six sushi chefs. Two new dishes you gotta try to
believe: Frank’s Kale Fried Rice and Sushi Pizza.
Tanuki To Go, a rock ‘n’ roll Southern-Asian
street food popup operating from the kitchen
of Bootsy Bellows by chefs Jonathan Leichliter
and Adam Christopher Norwig, was easily
spring’s most popular new kid in town. Now
Tanuki’s back alley takeout and chef ’s table —
an only-in-Aspen experience — is growing to
feed the masses. House of the Rising Tanuki-
San features a vegetable-centric menu of fusion
fare and sit-down dining in the nightclub
lounge, as well as ample sidewalk seating.
PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE
 YOU KNOW THEIR NAMES
Toro, a Pan-Latin concept by celebrity
chef Richard Sandoval, took over the flagship
restaurant at Viceroy Snowmass, replacing
Eight K and beloved chef Will Nolan (now
at The Madeline in Telluride). Off to a solid
start, Toro’s menu reads as a slideshow of
Sandoval’s travels through his native Mexico,
the Caribbean and South America, where
Japanese and Chinese influence is strong.
Chef Matthew Accarrino of Michelin-starred
SPQR in San Francisco will be in town as Chefs
Club Aspen rolls out a new chef residency
program this weekend. The innovative format
allows visiting chefs more time in the kitchen
to hone their menu — in this case, Accarrino’s
Californian spin on regional Italian cuisine.

IN THE WORKS
Want more? Aspen’s longtime local fave,
Little Annie’s Eating House, will be reborn as
a Rocky Mountain outpost of Clark’s Oyster
Bar in Austin. And work continues on Main
Street’s Oakville Grocery Aspen. (This despite
the passing of Napa Valley and Aspen food and
wine magnate Leslie Rudd, owner of Oakville
Grocery, in May.) Partner David Roth, formerly
of Peach’s, is overseeing renovation of the 1884
Main Street Bakery building, closed since 2016.
And a couple of places are going underground.
Bad Harriet, a subterranean bar in the old Aspen
Times building next to the Hotel Jerome, plans
to open July 4 with DJ music and saucy cocktails
in honor of Jerome Wheeler’s mischievous
wife. Longtime Aspenite and Hollywood actor
Roger Wilson has grand plans for 7908, a
supper club with live entertainment that fills
the hole left by Finbarr’s, set to open in July.

Hungry yet?

top:One of many take-

out delights at the new
Tanuki To Go.

above: A toast to the

new Marble Bar Aspen,
featuring Marble
Distilling Co. spirits, in
the Grand Hyatt Aspen.

left:The vintage bar

at the new Kemo Sabe
location will put some
giddy-up in your step,
while enjoying a beer
at Aspen Brewing Co.'s
new taproom comes
with great views and
fresh brews.

PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M

15
 honors
BEST NEW CHEFS

THE 30 TH
CLASS:
BEST NEW CHEFS REACHES A MILESTONE
BY KELLY J. HAYES

M
ost awards are given for excellence
based on an extended body of work.
But Food & Wine magazine’s Best New
Chefs (BNC) awards are a little different. They
are designed to honor and encourage those who
show potential; who, in their earliest forays into
the world of chefdom, exhibit the promise of
creating culinary magic long into the future.
For 30 years, the magazine’s editors have shown
an unerring prescience in selecting chefs who
would go on to make a difference in America’s
culinary culture. From Thomas Keller to Nancy
Silverton to David Chang, they’ve identified
stellar chefs in the infancy of their careers who
would ultimately mold the landscape of cooking
and hospitality. The Best New Chefs have been
harbingers of what was to come.
That first class, in 1988, featured names
that would become a veritable hall of fame
of America’s most significant chefs, each of
whom created legacies in different cuisines and
regions. Amazingly, to this day, nine of the 10
chefs selected in 1988 (George Germon of Il
Forno died in 2015) still have involvement in the
restaurant trade.
This year, the Food & Wine team traveled
to the highways and byways of America to
suss out the 30th class of America’s Best New
Chefs. They carry on a tradition that is rife with
responsibility. And just think of the meals that
have been served along the way. Approximately
300 chefs have been honored since the first class
and, for each, the moment they learned of their
inclusion, life changed.
The 30th class is largely made up of big city
chefs with just one — Katianna Hong of The
Charter Oak, St. Helena, California — from what
could be considered be a small town. Most have
worked in the kitchens of superstars like José
Andrés and Jamie Bissonnette. At least three have
worked in restaurants run by former BNCs (Hong
with Christopher Kostow BNC 2009, Michael
Gallina with Dan Barber BNC 2002, and Julia
Sullivan with Thomas Keller BNC 1988). And, in
what may be a record, seven of the 11 BNC’s in
this year’s class are women.
To all of the 2018 class, congratulations. We look
forward to eating with you for the next 30 years.

2018 BEST NEW CHEFS: THE 30TH CLASS

JESS SHADBOLT AND KEVIN TIEN KATIANNA HONG LIZ JOHNSON MICHAEL GALLINA
CLARE DE BOER Himitsu, Washington D.C. The Charter Oak, St. Freedman's, Los Angeles Vicia, St. Louis
King, New York City Helena, California

KATE WILLIAMS JONATHAN YAO JULIA SULLIVAN DIANA DÁVILA BRADY WILLIAMS
Lady of the House, Detroit Kato, Los Angeles Henrietta Red, Nashville Mi Tocaya Antojería, Canlis, Seattle
Chicago

1988 BEST NEW CHEFS: THE FIRST CLASS

BRUCE AUDEN RICK BAYLESS DANIEL BOULUD FRANK BRIGSTEN GEORGE GERMON

JOHANNE KILLEEN GORDON HAMMERSLEY THOMAS KELLER HUBERT KELLER GORDON NACCARATO

16 FOOD AND WINE • 2018

COURTESY OF FOOD & WINE W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
17
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18 FOOD AND WINE • 2018
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walterbering.com W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
19

BRIGHT
LIGHTS,
BIG CITY
A trio of high-style events light
up the mountaintop and bring
big-city tastes to town
BY LINDA HAYES
SOLD
OUT
LAST CALL,
PRESENTED BY
AMERICAN EXPRESS
Friday night, June 15, at the
Aspen Kitchen
What do you get when two
outstanding Austin chefs —
Tyson Cole and Aaron Franklin
— combine their culinary
specialties (non-traditional
Japanese food and lines-
around-the-block-worthy
barbecue, respectively) in a
searingly hot new restaurant
called Loro? An Asian
smokehouse, naturally.
Last Call invites a lucky
few hundred to sample dishes
from Loro Asian Smokehouse
& Bar, mingle with Cole and
Franklin, and otherwise
partake in an Austin-flavored,
smokin’ good par-tay, Aspen
style.
20 FOOD AND WINE • 2018
events
HIGH STYLE
FOOD & WINE BEST
NEW CHEFS 30TH
ANNIVERSARY DINNER
Saturday night, June 16,
at the Sundeck on Aspen
Mountain. Tickets: $400 with
a Classic Pass
At sea level, the description of
chefs reaching new heights might
ring cliché. At the top of Aspen
Mountain, it rings true, especially
when applied to the more than
300 toques who have been named
Food & Wine Best New Chefs over
the past 30 years.
Saturday night, four famous
Best New Chef alumni —
Hugh Acheson, Rick Bayless,
Stephanie Izard and Rocco
DiSpirito — will host an upper
echelon fete, and put their best
food forward at nearly 12,000
feet. It just doesn’t get any
higher than that.
VENUES LIKE THE GRAND TASTING PAVILION IN WAGNER
PARK, THE BALLROOMS AT THE ST. REGIS RESORT AND THE
COOKING TENT AT THE SILVER CIRCLE ICE RINK MAY BE
GROUND ZERO FOR EVENTS ON THE FOOD & WINE CLASSIC
SCHEDULE. BUT SEASONED ATTENDEES CAN ATTEST
THAT THERE’S PLENTY OF EXTRACURRICULAR ACTION
AROUND TOWN. (TIP: SUNDAY’S FAREWELL FEAST AT THE
HOTEL JEROME IS A SURE BET BEFORE THE FINAL GRAND
TASTING. GET YOUR TICKETS NOW.)
FOOD & WINE
MAGAZINE 2018
RESTAURANTS
OF THE YEAR
MAYDAN
Washington, D.C.
FAREWELL FEAST BRUNCH: BETTER LUCK
FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE TOMORROW
2018 RESTAURANTS OF Houston, Texas
THE YEAR
FAIRFAX
Sunday morning June 17, at
New York, N.Y.
the Hotel Jerome, 11 a.m -
1 p.m. Tickets: $150 REEMS
Oakland, Calif.
Food & Wine restaurant editor
SUPERIOR MOTORS
Jordana Rothman traveled 37,000
Braddock, Penn.
miles over six months to savor
and select the 10 Food & Wine THE GRAND CAFE
Restaurants of the Year. All ticket Minneapolis, Minn.
holders to the second annual
VOYAGER
Farewell Feast brunch need to
Ferndale, Mich.
do is head over to Main Street
and the Hotel Jerome on Sunday KEMURI TATSU-YA
morning. There, appetites (and Austin, Texas
hangovers) will be assuaged with
JUNEBABY
specialty dishes from each of the Seattle, Wash.
lauded restaurants (see right),
served up at booths spread LASA
around the Jerome’s nifty new Los Angeles, Calif.
Courtyard, Prospect restaurant
and Living Room.
PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE
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FOOD SEMINARS
FOUR WAYS TO AMP UP YOUR
COOKING CHOPS
PICKING FAVORITES OFF THE FOOD & WINE CLASSIC COOKING SEMINAR SCHEDULE IS ALWAYS TOUGH.
THIS YEAR, FOUR CHEFS HELPED TENDERIZE THE TASK.
CHEF: ALEX GUARNASCHELLI
Seminar: Sesame and Pink
Peppercorns: Fun with Spices
“Home cooks have great
curiosity about spices,” says
Alex Guarnaschelli, about the
concept behind her seminar.
“There is spice to make foods
spicy. And then there is spice
that builds more subtle, but
equally delicious, dishes. I am
exploring the nuances of both.
Always ready to spice things
up as executive chef at Butter
in NYC and a judge on a
"Chopped," Guarnaschelli is
excited to make a pineapple
upside-down cake enhanced
by caramel and pink pepper-
corns in her seminar. “Pink
pepper has a mild, tingling
heat that links up beautiful-
ly with the floral and acidic
notes of the fruit,” she says.
“A real crowd pleaser. Yum.”
24 FOOD AND WINE • 2018
seminars
FOOD
BY LINDA HAYES
CHEF: GABRIELLE HAMILTON
Seminar: Standing the Test
of Time: Prune Classics
Fresh off winning the James
Beard Award for Outstanding
Chef last month, Gabrielle
Hamilton shares some of the
classic dishes that have made
her and her restaurant, Prune,
something to be reckoned with
since it opened in NYC’s East
Village nearly 20 years ago.
Post-award, sliding into a
bistro table or onto a hot-pink
barstool at Prune might be even
more challenging than usual.
Witnessing, and getting recipes
for, the delicious dishes she
prepares in Aspen (Cod poached
in Fennel Milk, Cod Roe Puree,
Cured Tomato and Fennel
Salad) will potentially provide a
first-hand taste at home.
CHEF: JUSTIN CHAPPLE
Seminar: “Just Cook It!”
Justin Chapple is duly excit-
ed about the concept behind
his Food & Wine seminar.
“It’s based off my new cook-
book by the same name,” he
exclaims. “The book came out
last week!” While that was a
month ago, the exuberance
he expressed at the time will
surely carry over onto The St.
Regis stage this week.
Culinary director of Food &
Wine’s test kitchen and host
of the cooking series “Mad
Genius Tips,” Chapple’s
known for easy, delicious
recipes for home cooks.
The Yellow Gazpacho with
Parsley and Smoked Almond
Gremolata, Ricotta Gnudi
with Spinach and Dukka, and
No-Bake Cheesecake with
Strawberries he’ll demon-
strate will deliver.
PHOTOS BY SQUIRE FOX, @MELANIEDUNEA, DAVID CICCONI AND COURTESY OF FOOD & WINE
CHEF: ROCCO DISPIRITO
Seminar: Healthy & Delicious
One of the original “rock
star” chefs (he was named
a Best New Chef by Food &
Wine and “Sexiest Chef Alive”
by People magazine), Rocco
DiSpirito has spent the past
10-plus years as a crusader
for the healthy lifestyle.
While what he has up
his sleeves for his seminar
remains a mystery, we can
make an educated guess that
it may include one of the 200
mostly plant-based recipes in
his new cookbook, "Rocco’s
Healthy & Delicious".
 01

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 fyi
SEMINAR SCHEDULE

FRIDAY, JUNE 15
10:00 AM–10:45 AM Kelli White Jordan Salcito Daniel Imdieke Bobby Stuckey & Laura Werlin
From The Cellar: Great Napa New Superstars of Burgundy Blue Moon Presents: Beer’s A Love Letter to Napa &
Jacques & Claudine Pépin
Cabernets Over Time OAAM 1 Place at the Table Sonoma Cheese and Wine
Lessons from a Grandfather
GANT SRCY PAEPCKE 1
ST. REGIS 1 Paul Grieco
Laura Werlin Discovering the Great Wines of 3:45PM-4:30PM Carmen Quagliata, John Ragan
Geoffrey Zakarian
To Brie or Not to Brie: Indulgent Chile and Argentina & Jason Wagner
A Summer Meal with Style Tyler Florence
Cheeses & Wines OAAM 2 Baller Wines: Meatball and
ST. REGIS 2 California Cuisine
TLN 1 Wine Pairings
Shayn Bjornholm ST. REGIS 1
Ming Tsai PAEPCKE 2
Ray Isle Iconic Wines of France
Eat Well with Ming Marcus Samuelsson
The Australian Revolution LIMELIGHT Leslie Sbrocco
COOKING TENT Bird and Sea
TLN 2 Portugal's Perfect Pours
Bobby Stuckey ST. REGIS 2
Jordan Salcito GANT
Carlton McCoy & Scott Pruett Chianti Classico Reborn
Rosé Without Rules Gabrielle Hamilton
Lexus Presents: Golden Vines PAEPCKE 1 Carlton McCoy
OAAM 1 Standing the Test of Time:
of the Sierras Bring on the Bubbles
Mark Oldman Prune Classics
Paul Grieco SRCY TLN 1
Wines for Gazillionaires COOKING TENT
Reasons to Love Riesling
2:00PM-2:45PM PAEPCKE 2 Andy Chabot & Roy Milner
OAAM 2 Kelli White
Building the Perfect Beer
Alex Guarnaschelli Leslie Sbrocco Oregon’s Cutting Edge
Shayn Bjornholm TLN 2
Sesame and Pink Peppercorns: A Match Made in Heaven: OAAM 1
What a Year! The Best of
Fun with Spices Chocolate & Wine Paul Chevalier
Vintage Champagne Anthony Giglio
ST. REGIS 1 GANT Château d'Esclans Presents:
LIMELIGHT Will the Real Sauvignon Blanc
The Rosé Lifestyle of Saint-
Hugh Acheson Josh Wesson Please Stand Up?
Anthony Giglio Tropez
Shell Game: Stellar Seafood Peanut Butter & Jammin' OAAM 2
Breakfast of Champions: SRCY
ST. REGIS 2 Wines
Sparkling Smackdown Dave Wondrich
TLN 1
PAEPCKE 1 Ludo Lefebvre Rebirth of Rye
Beurre, Beurre, Beurre! Andy Chabot LIMELIGHT
Mark Oldman
COOKING TENT The Priorat: Amazing Reds
Spanish Wines for Millionaires
from Spain's Ancient Vines
PAEPCKE 2
TLN 2

SATURDAY, JUNE 16
10:00AM-10:45AM Mark Oldman Hunter Lewis & Jonathan Waxman Andy Chabot Dave Wondrich
Spanish Wines for Millionaires A Bird in Hand: Chicken the Obi- The Priorat: Amazing Reds Rebirth of Rye
Jacques & Claudine Pépin
PAEPCKE 2 Wan Waxman Way from Spain's Ancient Vines LIMELIGHT
Lessons from a Grandfather
COOKING TENT TLN 2
ST. REGIS 1 Kelli White Bobby Stuckey & Laura Werlin
From The Cellar: Great Napa Jordan Salcito Richard Blais A Love Letter to Napa &
Richard Blais
Cabernets Over Time New Superstars of Burgundy KitchenAid Presents: The Sonoma Cheese and Wine
#NoFilter: Truly Tasty and
GANT OAAM 1 Cooking School PAEPCKE 1
Perfectly Plated
SRCY
ST. REGIS 2 Laura Werlin Paul Grieco Carmen Quagliata, John Ragan
To Brie or Not to Brie: Indulgent Discovering the Great Wines of 3:45PM-4:30PM & Jason Wagner
Top Chef Season 15 Winner:
Cheeses & Wines Chile and Argentina Baller Wines: Meatball and
Joe Flamm Andrew Zimmern
TLN 1 OAAM 2 Wine Pairings
In The Kitchen With Top Chef Paella: Spain’s Greatest Party
PAEPCKE 2
COOKING TENT Ray Isle Shayn Bjornholm Food
The Australian Revolution Iconic Wines of France ST. REGIS 1 Leslie Sbrocco
Jordan Salcito
TLN 2 LIMELIGHT Portugal's Perfect Pours
Rosé Without Rules Anne Burrell
GANT
OAAM 1 Dean Fearing and Michael Bobby Stuckey Slow and Low: Braising Basics
Phillips Chianti Classico Reborn ST. REGIS 2 Sabato Sagaria
Paul Grieco
Lexus Presents: Coffee Bean PAEPCKE 1 Blind Tasting with the Masters
Reasons to Love Riesling Tim Love
Meets Cuisine TLN 1
OAAM 2 Mark Oldman Ultimate Steak Dinner
SRCY
Wines for Gazillionaires COOKING TENT Andy Chabot & Roy Milner
Shayn Bjornholm
2:00PM-2:45PM PAEPCKE 2 Building the Perfect Beer
What a Year! The Best of Kelli White
TLN 2
Vintage Champagne Justin Chapple Leslie Sbrocco Oregon’s Cutting Edge
LIMELIGHT It's Only Food, so Just Cook It! A Match Made in Heaven: OAAM 1 David Alan, Stephen Halpin &
ST. REGIS 1 Chocolate & Wine Chris Spake
Anthony Giglio Anthony Giglio
GANT Patrón Presents: Tequila Goes
Breakfast of Champions: Curtis Stone Will the Real Sauvignon Blanc
Tiki: Tropical Cocktails Made
Sparkling Smackdown The Wine Imperative: Making Josh Wesson Please Stand Up?
Easy with Patrón
PAEPCKE 1 the Maude Menu Peanut Butter & Jammin' Wines OAAM 2
SRCY
ST. REGIS 2 TLN 1

SUNDAY, JUNE 17
10:30AM-11:15AM Rick Bayless Paul Grieco Mark Oldman Sabato Sagaria
Perfect Green Chorizo Tacos Reasons to Love Riesling Spanish Wines for Millionaires Blind Tasting with the Masters
Stephanie Izard
COOKING TENT OAAM 2 PAEPCKE 2 TLN 2
A Guide to Easy Entertaining
ST. REGIS 1 Shayn Bjornholm Bobby Stuckey Carlton McCoy
What a Year! The Best of Great Grower Champagnes Bring on the Bubbles
Rocco DiSpirito
Vintage Champagne PAEPCKE 1 TLN 1
Healthy & Delicious
OAAM 1
ST. REGIS 2

26 FOOD AND WINE • 2018

 fyi
AREA MAP

Wagner Park

Wheeler Opera
House

Paepcke Park

Hotel Jerome

4
1 THE LITTLE NELL 8
GRAND TASTING 675 East Durant Ave. PAEPCKE PARK
PAVILION 5 Main St. & Aspen St.
Wagner Park LIMELIGHT LODGE 9
2 355 South Monarch OLD ASPEN
THE ST. REGIS 6 ART MUSEUM
RESORT ASPEN THE SUNDECK On 590 North Mill St.
315 East Dean St. Aspen Mountain 10
3 7 THE GANT
THE COOKING TENT REGISTRATION 610 South West
Silver Circle Ice Rink TENT End St.
425 Rio Grande Place
Celebrity Chef 5K Run

FRIDAY, JUNE 15 SATURDAY, JUNE 16 SUNDAY, JUNE 17

Grand Tasting Grand Tasting Grand Tasting
11:30 am - 1:15 pm 11:30 am - 1:15 pm 11:30 am - 1:15 pm
GTP GTP GTP
Grand Tasting Grand Tasting
4:30 pm - 6:15 pm 4:30 pm - 6:15 pm
GTP GTP

W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
27
 seminars
WINE

BUBBLES TO ROSÉ
THE EXPERTS POUR PERFECTION
BY KELLY J. HAYES

O
ne thing you can always be sure of at the Food
& Wine Classic in Aspen is that the wine will
flow like beer.
Of course, there are a number of ways to take
advantage of all that wine. You can simply make the
rounds of the tents, pick up a glass and taste the
offerings of the close to 300 exhibitors. You can secure
golden ticket invites to any one of the many parties, or
you can even book a table in a local restaurant and order
your own bottle from one of the outstanding wine lists
that dot the Aspen culinary landscape.
But for my money, the wine highlights for the
Classic all take place in the tents and presentation
venues that host the seminars. Consider that many
of America’s top wine experts come to pour you six
tastes and teach you something about each.
Here are a few “don’t miss ’em” presenters and
their seminars:

DRINK PINK RIPE FOR RED

Jordan Salcito, the head wine Wine writer Kelli White

geek at Momofuku and palate
behind the canned, grapefruit-
tinged Sicilian spritzer RAMONA
(you can try it at Of Grape and
Grain in Aspen), Jordan will be
throwing out the book in her
“Rose without Rules” seminar.
Meanwhile, Paul Chevalier,
who introduced Aspen and
America to the Whispering
Angel at the Classic over the
years, will bring the wines of
Château D'Esclans in a seminar
titled “The Rosé Lifestyle of
Saint Tropez.”
BUBBLY KNOWLEDGE
Master sommeliers seem
to have a thing for bubbles,
and three of the best in the
MS world will be popping
caps. Shayn Bjornholm, the
examination director for The
Court of Master Sommeliers,
will pour the good stuff from the
source in his “What a Year! The
Best of Vintage Champagne”
presentation. The Little Nell’s
master sommelier, Carlton
McCoy, will tickle our noses
with “Bring on the Bubbles,”
which likely will include some
non-Champagne-produced
sparklers. And leave it to
Boulder’s Bobby Stuckey to
take the path least traveled and
literally wrote the book on
Napa Valley, 1,255 pages and
12 pounds of book, titled
“Napa Valley, Then and Now.”
Naturally, she will focus on
the region with her “From
the Cellar: Great Napa Valley
Cabernets Over Time” seminar.
You may say “Grenache,” but
Andy Chabot returns from
Blackberry Farms to tell you
it’s “garnacha.” Or maybe
"cariñena". Or perhaps both in
his “The Priorat: Amazing Reds
from Spain’s Ancient Vines.”
UNDER A SOUTHERN CROSS
While we bask here in the
summer sun, the vines of
the Southern Hemisphere
lie dormant as the solstice
approaches. But there is
nothing dormant about the
wines from South America that
New York-based wino Paul
Grieco will pour in the seminar
“Discovering the Great Wines of
Chile and Argentina.” Staying
Down Under, Ray Isle, executive
wine director of Food & Wine
magazine, will address “The
Australian Revolution.” We
assume he means in wine.
above: The Little Nell's Carlton McCoy.

introduce us to “Great Grower Ray Isles of Food & Wine magazine

left: Whispering Angel's Paul Chevalier,
Champagnes,” those produced wine writer Kelli White.
in the region by local growers.

28 FOOD AND WINE • 2018 PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE, JEANNE MCGOVERN AND COURTESY OF THE LITTLE NELL AND KELLI WHITE
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 profile
HUNTER LEWIS

THE MORE
THINGS CHANGE
Editor Hunter Lewis leads Food & Wine into a new era

BY ANDREW TRAVERS

S
hortly after the Food & Wine Classic
in Aspen wrapped last year, Food &
Wine magazine made some bombshell
announcements.
The magazine was sold by Time Inc. to the
Meredith Corp. (with an infusion of a cash
contribution from the Koch brothers). It moved
from its longtime home in New York City to
Birmingham, Alabama. And Hunter Lewis, the
respected editor of Cooking Light, took over as
editor in chief, replacing Nilou Motamed, whose
tenure lasted little more than a year after she
replaced longtime editor Dana Cowin, who had
helmed the publication for more than two decades.
Despite these shake-ups, don’t expect major
changes to the time-tested formula at the Food
& Wine Classic. Lewis, 40, sees the Classic as a
cornerstone of Food & Wine’s identity.
“The Food & Wine Classic is a major part of
the DNA of our brand,” Lewis says in a recent
phone interview from the magazine’s new digs.
“We’re not changing the brand. Food & Wine is
strong.”

BIRMINGHAM BOUND
The move to Birmingham was not made by
the writers and editors of the magazine, but was
a corporate decision. Still, Lewis says it has clear
advantages for readers and staff alike.
“It was a show of faith in the talent in
Birmingham — in our history of making
high-quality magazines and social media and
video and recipes and photography here in
Birmingham,” Lewis says. And the relocation
united Food & Wine’s team with sister
publications Cooking Light and Southern Living
in Birmingham in a state-of-the art compound
of test kitchens and studios.
Half of the editorial team for the magazine is
now in Birmingham, while the staffers covering
restaurants and wine are still in Manhattan.
That approach brings a best of both worlds —
New York and flyover country, that is — to all
things Food & Wine.

30 FOOD AND WINE • 2018

 “We’re tapping into all the new and the
next that the editors in New York are a part
of — all the trend forecasting that they bring
to the table — with a sensibility in Birmingham
that’s more in line with who our consumers
are,” Lewis says. “By that I mean that we buy
wine more like our customer at the same bottle
shops and supermarkets. We have cars. The
way we buy groceries and the way we eat at
home are much more in line with the average
Food & Wine consumer outside of New York.”
For the June issue, Lewis oversaw a redesign
of the magazine’s layout. The subtle changes
signal a shift to more news-you-can-use
features — Lewis calls them “actionable
takeaways” — that include expanding its “Bottle
Service” drink section, and the “Handbook”
features aimed at practical cooking with
ingredients readers can find at local grocery
stores. Video features on Food & Wine’s “Well
Done” site are heading in a similar direction.
“Part of our mission with the redesign is
to dial up the service and the hospitality,”
Lewis says. That initiative, of course, comes
along with continued coverage of the elevated
culinary scene and the superstar chefs who top
the bill at the Classic.
When Lewis took the reins of Food &
Wine last summer, planning was already
underway for the 2018 Food & Wine Classic
in Aspen. He and his team have talked
about it every week since then, with special
issues and buzzy lists like the Restaurants
of the Year and Best New Chefs features
leading up to the events in Aspen.
“Everything points toward the Classic,”
Lewis says. “You can see the build-up for us,
editorially, towards the Classic.”
FOOD & WINE OTHER FOOD & WINE
MAGAZINE MAGAZINE EVENTS
FACTS
FOUNDED 1978
LOCATION: EDITORIAL OFFICES
IN BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA
CIRCULATION : 925,000
LOS ANGELES FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL
COST OF 4-COLOR PAGE: $148,000
FREQUENCY: 12 ISSUES PER
MUSIC CITY FOOD + WINE, NASHVILLE
YEAR
SOURCE: Food & Wine Media Kit
PHOTOS COURTESY OF FOOD & WINE
AT THE CLASSIC
This will be Lewis’ first time at the Classic,
though he’s no stranger to the mountains.
He spent a college summer as “the world’s
worst hotel valet” in Telluride and ski-
bummed for a year as a short-order cook
in Sun Valley after he graduated from the
University of North Carolina in 2000.
above:These are examples of issues that have been
produced at Food & Wine magazine since Hunter
Lewis’s arrival with the bottom cover reflecting the
redesign of the publication.
.
CAYMAN COOKOUT
PEBBLE BEACH FOOD & WINE
AUSTIN FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL
our brand. We’r e not
VENICE FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL
Food & Wine is strong."
NEWPORT MANSIONS WINE + FOOD
FULTON MARKET HARVEST FEST
“I love the mountains and I love the lifestyle,”
he says. “And I’m really excited about seeing the
brand come to life through the events around
town, all the tastings, the wine demos.”
He’s particularly looking forward, he says,
to tasting dishes at the Sunday brunch at
the Hotel Jerome highlighting Food & Wine’s
Restaurants of the Year and at Friday’s late-
night preview of Austin barbecue master Aaron
Franklin’s and sushi domo Tyson Cole’s new
Asian smokehouse, LORO.
While Lewis will be working the crowds
at the Classic, meeting readers and festival-
goers, some of the best insight into Food &
Wine’s new editor may come from watching
the man cook. He’ll take the stage with his
mentor, celebrity chef Jonathan Waxman, on
Saturday afternoon.
Lewis began his career in food journalism
by leaving a gig as a newspaper reporter in
Durham for New York City, where he walked
into Waxman’s Barbuto and asked for a job.
“I wanted to learn how to cook so that I
could be a better food writer,” he explains.
“They took me on as a line cook, broke me
down and then built me back up again.”
The pair will showcase Waxman’s roast
chicken and crispy potatoes recipe — it’s billed
as “Chicken the Obi-Wan Waxman Way” —
a comfort-food standard that Waxman has
mastered and passed on to Lewis. “Whenever
I have a chef come visit me and my wife in
Birmingham, chances are I’m doing some
version of this,” he says.
Also expect to see Lewis in the crowd often
at seminars and tastings. He’s here to learn.
“I look at a life in food as a continuing
education,” he says.
"The Food & Wine
Classic is a major
part of the DNA of
changing the brand.
- Hunter Lewis
W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
31
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LITTLE PIGGY
GROWS UP
Heritage Fire returns to Snowmass with hyper-local, whole-animal, live-fire feast

BY LINDA HAYES

“I
t’s honest food from real farmers, put forth
by passionate butchers and chefs using
primal cooking techniques,” says Brady
Lowe, visionary founder of Cochon555’s national
competitive chef series, about Heritage Fire, the
no-protein-barred, wood-fired event that’s become
the local darling of the Food & Wine weekend.
“Together, through eating, we become stewards
of the good food movement, motivate change and
Want More?
influence our food system from pasture to plate.”
One of the primary live-fire events in the RUSTIC GRIND
country right now, Heritage Fire, aka “Fire” if you’re
one of the initiated, will take over the lawn on the Thursday
slopes at Snowmass Base Village for the fourth 6:30 - 8:30 p.m.
year Saturday afternoon. Beyond furthering the at Fanny Hill, Snowmass
cause (the event is a fundraiser for Cochon555’s Village
sister charity, Piggy Bank), it’s an all-in, lip-smackin’, Tickets:
free-flowing good way to go the distance with $40,
3,200 pounds of heritage breed meat – and all the http://cochon555.
trimmings to go with. com/us-tour/2018-
heritagefiresnowmass
SINK YOUR TEETH INTO THIS or at the door
Whole pigs. Dry-aged beef. Duck. Octopus.
Lamb. Goat. Squab. Eel. Rabbit. Oysters. Ain’t no grind at all working
Chicken. Sturgeon. Artisan cheeses. Heirloom your way down the grill line
vegetables. Disparate as these ingredients may at year two of this sizzlin’
seem, they all have one thing in common: sideline event, held in a special
Heritage, or heirloom, origins. fenced-in area (look for the
What else may show up on grills, in smokers smoke) during the Snowmass
and on spits or asados over fires lit before dawn free concert featuring Elektric
and fanned to ideal cooking temps is anybody’s Voodoo. Chefs fire up all sorts
guess. Chefs are known to pack their Yetis and load of heritage-meat sausage.
up trucks to haul product, ingredients, cooking Other tasty bits and tipples, too.
utensils and other essential gadgets from as near as
Aspen and as far as Houston, Chicago and Seattle.
Once it all hits the slopes, so to speak, nuanced
techniques enhance the back-to-basic concept of
(not to mention flavor rendered by) cooking quality
meats over flame.

34 FOOD AND WINE • 2018 PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE

 THE MAIN COURSE – Fifty-plus chefs and
butchers preparing heritage-breed protein
translates on the plate to over 100 different
dishes. Survey the crowd, keep your eye on
what’s passing by on plates and make sure
to circle back to stands you’ve already hit for
whatever’s hot off the fire.
National chefs include Shota Nakajima of
Adana in Seattle, and Houston’s Manabu “Hori”
Horiuchi of Kata Robata and Jean-Philippe
Gaston of Izakaya in Houston.
Coming up from Denver are Steve Redzikowski
of Acorn, Joshua Pollack of Rosenberg’s, Bill
Miner of il Porcellino, Nate Singer of Blackbelly,
Daniel Asher of River & Woods, and Kelly
Whitaker of Basta, to name a few.
Aspen homeboys include Jim Butchart and
Andrew Helsley of Aspen Skiing Co., Kyle
Wilkins of Home Team BBQ and Eddy Chaimal
of Venga Venga. And a special former Snowmass
chef, Will Nolan makes a return appearance from
his new home as executive chef at Telluride’s
Hotel Madeline.
PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE
SIDE DISH – As tempting as it is to go all hog,
stray from the meat for a moment now and then
to forage for a sampling of craft cheese from Les
Trois Petits Cochons, Yellow Door Creamery,
Cello, Savile Row, La Quercia and Cypress
Grove at the Cheese Experience. Go raw at the
Tartare Bar. Get a hit of sweet at a Pop-Up Pie
shop by Mike’s Pies and Swine and Sweets, an
innovative spin on dessert spotlighting notable
pastry chefs working with Perfect Puree of
Napa Valley. Check out the new Tromp “Hora
de Familia” experience, celebrating the first
Global Cochon555 event in Mexico City later
this year, as well as Royal Oak’s Natural Charcoal
“Dirty Steak” Tomahawk Bar. And swing by the
Pop-Up Butcher Demo and Silent Auction with
celebrated butchers Kate Kavanaugh and Josh
Curtiss of Western Daughters in Denver.
below: Whole pig is just one of the many
meats and preparations served up at
Heritage Fire, an event that's quicky become
a local's favorite for it's outdoor location and
laid-back vibe.
PAIR IT UP – From Topo Chico sparklers to
premium cocktails from Breckenridge, Buffalo
Trace and other top distilleries at the Manhattan
Project, El Tesoro Tequila margaritas to rosé from
Chateau D’Esclans, there is a perfect pairing for
every tidbit and taste. Silver Oak, Kosta Browne,
Pax Wine Cellars, Sandhi, and Twomey Cellars will
be pouring wines, as well.
Need to Know
When & Where:
Saturday at Base Village, Snowmass
What Time:
3 p.m. for VIP entry $200, 4 p.m.
general admission $150
Tickets:
http://cochon555.com/us-tour/
2018-heritagefiresnowmass
W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
35
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 drinking global
SPAIN RETURNS
SPANISH JUICE
26 YEARS AND COUNTING
BY KELLY J. HAYES
I
f you want to take a trip to Europe in a glass
during the Food & Wine Classic, there are few
better options than a visit to the Wines From
Spain tent at the south end of the courtyard. For 26
years, yes since 1992, the Spanish wine folks have
been returning to Aspen with the regularity of
pilgrims to the Camino de Santiago.
And they bring the juice. Mencia from Bierzo,
Txakolina from Bilbao. Tempranillo from La Rioja.
Garnacha from Navarra, Carignan from Aragón,
and Monastrell from Madrid. The entirety of the
country and its diverse wines are well represented.
Oh, and they feed you. One of the classic
Food & Wine Classic traditions is lining up
during the Grand Tastings for a buffet of Spanish
38 FOOD AND WINE • 2018
culinary treasures. The magnificent sheep’s milk
Manchego cheese, the roasted Marcona almonds,
the ethereal, thinly sliced Jamón Ibérico and
the massive pans of paella prepared each year
by Javier Gonzales-Bringas (pictured below) of
Basalt’s Tempranillo bodega are enough to inspire
even a Spaniard.
The opening party hosted by Wines From
Spain has also been legendary, featuring up-and-
coming chefs as well as famed Spanish chefs like
José Andrés. This year the party will be held at
Aspen Kitchen on Thursday night and feature chef
Seamus Mullen from the award-winning Spanish
restaurant Tertulia in the West Village in NYC.
Wines From Spain brings Spain to Aspen.
PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE
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mark oldman
NAILING IT!
THE ART OF PRESENTATION
Experts reveal their seminar secrets
I
t is rare that the wine seminars at the Food
& Wine Classic in Aspen leave attendees
wanting. I mean, how can you go wrong
when there are six glasses of great wine in front
of you? Not to mention info and laughs.
But there are some presenters who bring
lagniappe, a little something extra, to the
tents and ballrooms. So what is it that
makes for a kick-ass session that sells out
year after year? We asked some of the most
popular presenters to share their secrets.
THE EDU-TAINER
Laura Werlin would be popular if all she did
was bring cheese. A James Beard Award winner
for “The All American Cheese and Wine Book,”
she sources and serves samples of the best
44 FOOD AND WINE • 2018
seminars
WINE
leslie sbrocco
BY KELLY J. HAYES
cheeses on the planet in each of her seminars.
But it is her joie de vivre, naturally curly locks
and summer sundresses that remind all of a
summer in Provence, that pack them in for her
ever popular seminars.
“The Food & Wine Classic is the ne’ plus ultra
of food and wine festivals in this country, so let me
just say that being a presenter for all these years is
a huge honor,” Werlin said in a recent interview.
“For that and a zillion other reasons, I really try and
bring it by way of my brand of ‘edutainment’ —
educating while entertaining.” She continued, “That
means tasting and pairing specially curated cheeses
and wines (by me!), telling the stories of both, and
weaving in all-important laughter along the way.”
“But you have to stay on your feet,” she adds.
“You never know what’s going to happen, so you
laura werlin
have to stay one step ahead of your audience and
make sure they’re having a great time. My goal is
for everyone to walk out of the tent feeling smarter,
energized and cheery (and not just because they’ve
consumed six wines at 8,000 feet all before lunch).”
THE SHOWMAN
As bold and outrageous as the wines he pours,
Mark Oldman’s seminars on “Wines For …,”
first, Millionaires, then Billionaires, and now
Gazillionaires, have become among the hottest
tickets at the Classic. A born showman, Oldman
is also known for bringing door prizes for his
audiences. “I spend many months thinking about
what would be fresh and exciting for audience
members,” he said. “How do I give people an
experience that they won’t soon forget?”
COURTESY PHOTOS
 Despite the titles of his seminars, and his
most recent book, “How to Drink Like a
Billionaire,” Oldman also declares himself
a “passionate proponent of drinking richly
without spending extravagantly.” In other
words, he is all about the value.
And he knows that making a seminar work takes,
well, work. “Part of my recipe is that I always start
from scratch,” he said. “I am forever challenging
myself: How do I make the year’s topics both more
entertaining and more enlightening to audience
members?” He continued, “I also think that standing
before a tent of 200 smart, discriminating Aspen
attendees is a wonderful truth teller. Unlike the
books and television work I’ve done, you can’t hide.
There are no retakes or revisions. It is gloriously
live — and that is exciting and motivating.”
And, of course, the ultimate goal is to win over
the tent. “When people come to hear you speak,
you are either under-delivering or over-delivering. I
am allergic to the former and addicted to the latter.”
THE SUPERHERO
If you watch the “Today” show or live in the
San Francisco Bay area, you know Leslie Sbrocco
from her myriad television appearances. Tall,
informative and commanding, she is the kind
of wine expert who always makes you want to
drink more wine. In addition to her television
persona, she is a speaker at a plethora of events
"I also think that standing before a tent of
200 smart, discriminating Aspen attendees is
a wonderful truth teller. Unlike the books and
television work I’ve done, you can’t hide."
PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE
with expert chops and a winning way.
This past spring, at a gathering of wine
writers at the Meadowood Resort in Napa
Valley, Sbrocco shared some tips and
HERE’S WHAT THEY
techniques that she uses to ensure her WILL NAIL IT AT THE
presentations are worthy of 100-point scores.
CLASSIC:
“Use your voice,” she extolled the audience.
“It’s sometimes hard for people when they
are called on to speak to step up to the plate LAURA WERLIN
and be raucous. But the audience came to • To Brie or Not to Brie:
see you because you are the expert. Pick your Indulgent Cheeses and
favorite superhero and put on his or her suit.” Wines
Sbrocco also admitted that she, like
• A Love Letter to Napa and
many public speakers, gets nervous before
a presentation. “The best thing to do to Sonoma Wine and Cheese
center yourself is simply to breathe. I have (with Bobby Stuckey)
a routine where I take three long, deep
breaths … seven seconds at a time. When MARK OLDMAN
I’m done I feel better and I’m ready to go.” • Spanish Wines for
And bounce. “Yes, bounce,” she said as she
Millionaires
began to hop on the toes of her shoes. “You
can feel the energy when you are bouncing. It’s • Wines For Gazillionaires
a great way to get yourself ready to speak.”
And finally, she uses a Sbrocco term for LESLIE SBROCCO
keeping your content tight. “Just ‘Spanx It,’” • A Match Made in Heaven:
she exclaimed. “Nobody wants to hear you go Chocolate and Wine
on and on and on. Edit yourself hard, keep the
• Portugal’s Perfect Pours
convo tight. And whatever you do, stay on time.”
Good advice from the best presenters
in the world of Food & Wine.
- Mark Oldman
W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
45
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 power figures
INSIGHT

SHE’S SPICY!
Women rock Aspen’s entrepreneurial food scene

BY LINDA HAYES

FRONT-OF-THE-HOUSE AND AT THE STOVE. WIELDING CHEFS’ KNIVES OR SCHEDULE SHEETS. WRANGLING EVERYTHING FROM WRAPS TO
RESERVATIONS, PURVEYORS TO PAYCHECKS, WALK-IN FREEZERS TO FONDANT. BEHIND SOME OF ASPEN’S TOP — AND OFTEN LONGEST-
STANDING — RESTAURANTS, AN ENTREPRENEURIAL GROUP OF CHEFS, RESTAURATEURS, OWNERS AND OTHER FEMALE POWER FIGURES
RULE. HERE, SOME SHARE INSIGHT INTO THEIR EXPERIENCE — AND THEIR SPICE.

WENDY MITCHELL
ALEECE ALEXANDER Founder-owner + award-winning
Executive pastry chef, The Aspen cheesemaker, Meat & Cheese
JODI LARNER Restaurant and Farm Shop + Hooch
Meadows
Owner, Cache Cache Craft Cocktail Bar
“In an industry that's still
“After 30 years, we still love what we “At recent city gatherings, it's been
pretty male-dominated, I am very
do. It’s all about our unbelievable team, really empowering to look around the
empowered at The Meadows. I have
our collective culture, and I couldn’t be room and see so many successful,
full creative license and with our new
prouder. Competition will come and go, smart, independent women business
top-of-the-line kitchen equipment,
and the only thing we can control is the owners. Oftentimes, as a restaurant
we are producing some cutting-edge
experience from the minute we answer owner especially, you operate in a bit
pastry work that one would typically
the phone to the meal. We’re always of a void because you are working long
have to travel to Europe to enjoy.
relevant and I’m always at the front door. hours and weekends. So it’s been nice
I love doing work I'm passionate
I’ve had an incredible life in the valley, to have this newly found network of
about in the valley where I was born
and as much as I travel the world, I true peers. In my role in the community,
and raised, and the community that
can’t wait to come home. I’m extremely I feel like I’ve helped create places
gathers at The Meadows reminds
fortunate, extremely grateful.” where I would like to eat, shop or hang
me of ‘Old Aspen.’ It's always fun to
serve great food to locals!” out, and I’ve just been really lucky that
other people feel the same way.”

48 FOOD AND WINE • 2018 ASPEN TIMES FILE PHOTO, COURTESY PHOTO, PHOTO BY ANNA STONEHOUSE
 Other
Leading
Ladies
MARY LYNN CASPER
Owner, Su Casa, Aspen
Billiards, Eric’s Bar
ANNETTE DOCIMO
+ The Cigar Bar
Owner, Annette's Mountain Bake Shop
MAWA MCQUEEN PAULA RUNGSAWANG
Owner-chef, Mawa's Kitchen Aspen “A lot of people think I’m rude.
Owner, Bangkok Happy
and Market Street Kitchen Basalt (editor’s note: not us) But they don’t
Bowl and Tiki Mana
know what I go through. It’s tough to try
to make everybody happy. To deal with
“Cooking is my passion and my everybody at one time. But we try, and
purpose. It’s how I share my love we know we’re serving a great product.
with the world! As an African- I have to say our locals are wonderful.
American woman chef, it’s been a We make sure they know the ‘specials’
privilege to share my unique vision
of healthy, farm-fresh food with the
behind the specials.” "At recent city
Aspen community for over a decade.
Building Mawa’s Kitchen has been a gatherings,
wild ride, and I look forward to many
more years in the kitchen.” it's been really
empowering to
look around
the room and
VICTORIA HAVEMAN,
see so many
Owner, Victoria + Co Espresso
+ Wine Bar successful, smart,
BARBARA (BABS) MENENDEZ
“I find strength in Anne Curry's
words, ‘I can say I've done nothing
independent
Owner, The Big Wrap wrong. I've been honest and true.
I am proud of myself.’ At over 10
women business
“In Aspen, it’s survival of the fittest, years now, I still love what I do,
man or woman. I take my work very business continues to be great and owners."
seriously, and enjoy what I do, when our customers become friends. I
I’m doing it. I do think women are am proud of what I have built from - Wendy Mitchell
probably stronger at small business nothing and grateful to all who have
because we’re multi-taskers. I do supported me along the way.”
everything from soup to nuts.”

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY PHOTO, ASPEN TIMES FILE PHOTO, PHOTOS BY ANNA STONEHOUSE W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M
49
 ©2018 Yellowstone® Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 46.5% Alc/Vol (93 proof), Limestone Branch Distillery, Lebanon, KY.

ASPEN
A�or�a��e � �ee� �ee�e� �wners��ps �n �owntown Aspen�
���t�p�e owners��ps ava��a��e � start�n� at �15,000�
En�oy ���y 4t� wee� � �oo� an� ��ne wee� � ��r�stmas Ho���ay an�
�pr�n� ����n� pac�a�es. ��ese one �e�room, two �at�, 71� s�. �t.
con�os are �ocate� �n t�e �eart o� Aspen, across �rom t�e ��stor�c
��ee�er �pera Ho�se, an� steps �rom ama��n� resta�rants an� s���n�.
�atc� t�e s��ers come �own Aspen �o�nta�n �rom yo�r own pr�vate
�ec� an� �ot t��. Eac� �n�t comes w�t� woo� ��rn�n� �rep�ace, �at
screen ��s, an� yo�r own �ec�, sa�na, an� �ot t��� ��t� a ��rp�y �e�
an� p����o�t co�c�, t�ese spac�o�s 1 �e�room �n�ts can accommo�ate
� peop�e per �n�t. �rospector amen�t�es �nc���e� a�rport s��tt�e, �a��y
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mana�ement, w�t� a �ar�e common ��� �ec� w�t� �antast�c v�ews o�
town an� Aspen �o�nta�n. H�A ��es �nc���e ann�a� property ta�es�

Bruce Johnson
970.�1�.0�25
�r�ce�masonmorse.com

514 East Hyman Ave, Aspen | 9

70.925.7000 | www.masonmorse.com
 parting shot
FOOD & WINE 2018

A Classic Ending

THE SUNSET ON ASPEN MOUNTAIN AS SEEN FROM THE 2017 WINE AT THE MINE PARTY. FOOD & WINE CLASSIC 2018 IS EXPECTED
TO DRAW LARGE CROWDS OF THOSE WHO LOVE TO EAT AND DRINK.

PHOTO BY ANNA STONEHOUSE W W W. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M

51
 651 PFISTER DRIVE, ASPEN | Creating a new design standard at the world-famous Maroon Creek Golf Club, this Bowden Development mountain
estate is like none other. Perched on more than three acres overlooking the Tom Fazio golf course, just moments away from the Tiehack Ski Lift, a
footbridge away from the Aspen Rec Center and Aspen School Campus – and only minutes to downtown Aspen on the bike path.

The house itself o�ers inviting open spaces for living and entertaining, breathtaking views east to �unter Creek and south to Thunderbowl, � spacious
bedroom suites, 11 bathrooms, expansive decks, outdoor kitchen, state-of-the-art media room, billiards game room, wine cellar and a spa to rival any
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Bob Bowden | 970.948.7000

bobbowden@masonmorse.com

Laci Dinan | 970.618.8262

laci@masonmorse.com

514 E. Hyman Avenue, Aspen • 970.925.7000 • www.masonmorse.com

52 FOOD AND WINE • 2018