Professional Documents
Culture Documents
For a detailed description of every exercise listed above, see Eric Hörst's Training for Climb
c Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017). Learn mo
ng.com
bing Program -- www.Training4Climbing.com (Copyright 2016 - All Rights Reserved)
Power-Training Exercises
Finger Flexors REPS SETS
One-Arm Traversing 6 - 12 moves 2-3
One-Arm Lunging 6 - 12 moves 2-3
Campus Board (CB) “Bumps” 2 - 4 sets each side
CB Laddering (no skips, smallish rungs) up only 3 - 10
CB “Switch Hands” 6 - 12 moves 2-5
CB Double Dynos (smallish rungs) 6 - 12 moves 2-5
HIT System Pinch Hold Double Dynos 3 - 6 moves 2-3
Arms & Torso REPS SETS
Big-Move Boulder Problems 4 - 8 moves 3-8
Power Pull-Up (Chest-Bump) 5 - 12 1-3
Gym Rope Climbing sprint to top 3-8
CB “Laddering” (larger rungs w/ skips) 3 - 6 moves 3 - 10
Clap Pull-Ups 3-6 2-3
Boulder Campusing (Monkey Biz) 3 - 8 moves 3 - 10
CB Double Dynos (Large Rungs 5 - 9 moves 1-5
RPE (Rating of Preceived Exertion) is a 1 to 10 scale of exercise/climbing intensity and subjective exertion.
Climbing (page 117) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (page 182) for a detailed coverage of "training zones" for climbers.
Local and Generalized Aerobic Training Exercises
Local/Climbing-Specific Aerobic Endurance REPS SETS
ARC Traversing - Recovery Climbing (RPE: 4 to 6) 15 - 30 min. 1
Submaximal Route Intervals (RPE: 6 to 8) 2-4 min/route 10 - 20
Climb All Day many routes
Fingerboard Moving Hangs 5 - 10 min. 1-3
Campus Board or System Wall “Hand Play” 3 - 5 min. 3-6
Threshold Intervals (RPE: 7 to 8.5 out of 10) 3 - 5 min. 3-8
Generalized Aerobic Training REPS SETS
Steady State Aerobic Training (RPE: 6 to 8) 15 - 30 min.
Interval Training (RPE: 8 to 9) 30 - 60 each 6 - 10
High-Volume Generalized Aerobic Training (big wall and
alpine climbers only) 45 - 120 min.
20 - 40 minutes of submaximal climbing--focus on learning new skills, refining technique, and mental game.
4 Do 4 - 8 top-rope routes (1/2 to 2 number grades below maximum ability)
Do a second lap on an route that you struggle or fall on--striving for efficient movement and pace.
See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (20
xercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com
ROUTES/LAPS
WT - REPS - SETS
REPS - SETS
WEIGHT
www.Training4Climbing.com
Beginner-level Program (w
Workout without Climbing - No
SUGGESTED REPS & SETS
10 - 20 minutes of general warm-up activity, including mobility/flexibility exercises.
1 5 - 10 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity
2 5 - 10 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching
See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise G
DISCLAIMER
evel Program (without climbing) [<5.11/V4 ability]
Workout without Climbing - No Wall/Gym Available (1 - 2 .5 hours)
UGGESTED REPS & SETS DATE DATE DATE
ility exercises.
b (below)
ck Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4C
WEIGHT WEIGHT
MICROCYCLE #2
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning
MICROCYCLE #3
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning
MICROCYCLE #4
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning
MICROCYCLE #5
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning
raining for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn mo
SATURDAY SUNDAY
SATURDAY SUNDAY
SATURDAY SUNDAY
SATURDAY SUNDAY
SE