“MOST POWERFUL GAUNTLET IN THE UNIVERSE” Template Created by David J. Guyton www.armortemplates.com Thank you for picking up this FREE template from armortemplates.com! Unlike my other templates, you are more than welcome to share this template with others. If you have not seen it already, you will need to watch the YouTube tutorial on how | made this gauntlet at https://youtu.be/SVC5x6j0m-s This template should print out to actual size. Once you print it, find the mark that measures 1” (one inch) or 1cm (one centimeter). Measure this to see if it printed to exact size. If not, check your printer settings. All printers are different so | can't walk you through the sizing process, but there should be some settings that say something like “print page to fit” or “print to page”. Check or uncheck the box and try again. As always, I strongly suggest creating this gauntlet in paper before committing to metal, foam, etc. This is to ensure it will fit you properly once finished. This gauntlet should fit any average person, however whoever designed it originally clearly did not design it for comfort or function. | had modified it some in order to give it some articulation so that it is a wearable, functional gauntlet. The film version also has a plate covering the palm, and plates covering the underside of the fingers. These features would have made it useless as a gaunlet, and would render it a display piece only. For that reason | have omitted those features. | have also modified the fingerplates to be more uniform, less awkward, and easier to make. The rest of the gauntlet is reasonably film-accurate and nearly perfect as far as proportions. | used a piece of brass measuring 12” x 24” (30cm x 60cm). Thickness was 20 gauge, (032 inch, or .812mm). Brass in anything thicker than 20 gauge is going to be very difficult to emboss using the methods | use in the video. For the small piece behind the knuckleplate, | used .010 brass (30 gauge, or .255mm). You will also need a sturdy pair of leather gloves, but not the tick “work” gloves. You need gloves that are comfortable, but a little close-fitting, like “driver” style gloves. | used Ansell Projex Leather Driver Gloves (in XL). You will also need to make your own gems. Trust me, no store is going to have them the exact size and shape you will need. | have marked on the template the sizes for the large and small stones. Get some oven-bake clay and shape them, then bake as per instructions on the clay. Once hardened, do any additional shaping necessary with a file or sandpaper. Spray with glossy spray paint and allow to dry completely. Using a silicone mold mix, create a mold using the instructions provided with the mold material. Allow to cure completely, and then follow the instructions in the video on adding bits of jlass inside the gems. If you don’t add the glass, your gems are going to look cheapand fake. You will need some dye to color your gems. You do not need all the colors, only blue, red, and yellow. From these you can mix up any color you want. | used Alumilite brand clear resin and their dye. Use safety equipment. If you are underaged, be sure to have a parent or guardian assist you. Make sure that your edges are all rounded and blunt. Cut out your pieces but do not cut out the parts that require embossing perfectly. Instead leave an edge surrounding the part for now. This make the embossing process easier. Emboss these parts like you see me do in the video, then cut them out and shape them accordingly. The FINGERTIPS are difficult to do and require a lot of tweaking. You may choose not to do the tips and instead replace the tips with plain FINGERPLATES. Start with the FINGERTIPS, riveting them to a strip of leather. carefully measure the distance required between FINGERPLATES and punch holes in the leather strip. Rivet all the FINGERPLATES on the strip. Do this for each finger. The pointer, middle and ring fingers have a FINGERTIP and 3 FINGERPLATES. The pinky finger has a FINGERTIP and 2 FINGERPLATES. All 4 fingers have a FINGERBASE that attaches a little later. 3 FINGERBASES are identical (pointer, ring and pinky). The longer FINGERBASE (FINGERBASE MIDDLE) is for the middle finger. Once you have marked where the final hole goes on the glove, rivet the assembled fingers onto the glove, attaching the FINGERBASES in the process. The thumb does not need a leather strip. Attach the FINGERTIP for the thumb directly to the glove with a rivet. Assemble the rest of the thumb pieces as you see in the video and attach them to the glove For the top side of the KNUCKLEPLATE, you will find that the accent pieces (ACCENT 1 and ACCENT 2) appear to be too long. This is because ACCENT 2 overlaps ACCENT 1. | suggest finding pictures online, or pausing the tutorial video to get this part right. Carefully mark where the ACCENT PIECES will go, and then rivet them on. Now using 5-Minute Epoxy, glue on the COPPER RING. Again, the COPPER RING will overlap the ends of the ACCENT PIECES near the large hole in the KNUCKLEPLATE. Now glue the BRASS RING onto the COPPER RING. Attach HANDPLATE to glove befor attaching KNUCKLEPLATE. After adding the LED lights and soldering them together, glue them to the back side of the KNUCKLEPLATE. Apply paint to the back of everything so that light cannot escape from the back side of the armor. Make sure to run the wires through a hole in the glove so that they cannot be seen while you are wearing the gauntlet. Attach the KNUCKLEPLATE to the glove using two rivets (on on each side). Do not use the lower hole on the KNUCKLEPLATE yet, as that will be used to attach the KNUCKLEPLATE to the VAMBRACE ASSEMBLY later.Shape the VAMBRACE halves. Add CENTER 1 to one of the VAMBRACE halves with rivets. Then rivet on CENTER 2. Now glue or rivet on the long copper accents on top of CENTER 2. You do not have to recreate the elaborate self-closing mechanism | made, but you will need to at least add hinges like | did. If you don’t make the mechanism, you will need to add some sort of strap or latch. Attatch the WRIST WINGS (right and left) to the WRISTPLATE using rivets. Carefully mark two holes in the WRISTPLATE ASSEMBLY where you can attach to the VAMBRACE. It is very important to make these holes ONLY in the top half of the VAMBRACE. If you try to rivet it to both halves, it will no longer hinge open. Rivet on the MINI WINGS on either side of the WRISTPLATE ASSEMBLY to hide the hingepoint rivet. Now use the lower hole in the KNUCKLEPLATE to connect the KNUCKLEPLATE to the VAMBRACE/WRISTPLATE ASSEMBLY and you have a completed gauntlet! If you liked this template, be sure to check out all the other templates Armor Templates has to offer! 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