Republic of the Philippines

Polytechnic University of the Philippines

College of Engineering
Mechanical Engineering Department
Room 110, 1st Floor, CEA Building
NDC Compound, Pureza St., Sta. Mesa, Manila

GROUP 5
Powertrain
BSME IV-3
Submitted by:
LEADER:
BUNDA, Jastine Marc B.

ASSISTANT LEADER:
ROMERO, Diether B.

MEMBERS:
ABUEG, Mark Anthony D.
DELOS SANTOS, Christopher A.
SISON, Aldreen D.
TUMACA, John Kenneth S.
VALDEZ, Andrea E.

Submitted to:
Engr. Jesus D. Callanta
INSTRUCTOR
 POWERTRAIN
WHAT IS A POWERTRAIN
If the chassis is the skeleton, the
powertrain is the musculature system. The
powertrain encompasses every component that
converts the engine’s power into movement.
This includes the engine, transmission, the
driveshaft, differentials, axles; basically anything
from the engine through to the rotating wheels.

DRIVETRAIN

The drivetrain, as the name suggests, is the name given to the group of components that
drive the wheels – but unlike the powertrain, it typically refers to everything that comes after the
engine (and some will argue it does not include the transmission, either). So all the bits in between
the engine and wheels that produce, develop or assist drive are what make up the drivetrain.
Drivetrains for front, rear and all-wheel-drive and 4WD vehicles are all quite different, due to the
need to send the engine’s power out to the wheels in different ways.

TRANSMISSION

The transmission is the gearbox and clutch, which transmits and converts power from the
engine into twist (rotational force) for the wheels.
The clutch engages or disconnects the turning engine from the gears as they are shifted up,
down, or into neutral. This is particularly important when coming to a stop to keep the engine
idling – if you didn’t have a clutch, the engine’s rotation locked to the gear would wind down to a
shuddering halt, and stall. We’ve all done that more than once…
Gears are the way of best harnessing and optimising the engine’s power no matter what
speed you are travelling. A low gear (first or second) produces more force at lower speeds, i.e. to
get you off the line, while a high gear produces less force at higher speeds to keep you rolling
along rapidly.
 There are basically four types of transmissions. The original and still the simplest type of
transmission is the manual, named for its need for manual selection of the gears via the stick shift
and operation of the clutch by the driver’s left foot.
A conventional automatic transmission uses a complex set of gears controlled by the car’s
computer to take the manual selection process away from the driver. Automatic transmissions have
no conventional clutch – the device that does this particular chore is called a torque converter.
Semi-automatic and dual-clutch transmissions are a mix of both manual and auto. In a
semi-auto, gears can still be selected by the driver, but there is no clutch pedal; this is instead
handled by the car’s computer. Essentially, it’s a cheat: driving a manual without the step of
engaging a clutch. This explains its other moniker, the ‘clutchless manual.’ A Dual-Clutch
Transmission uses a separate clutch for the odd and even gears, which means that while one gear
is in use, the next gear – be it higher or lower - is always ready to go at a moment’s notice. This
equates to super-fast shifts.
The Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) does away with gears altogether and
instead employs a pulley system controlled by the car’s computer, aiming to offer the optimum
gear ratio for any given driving situation.

DRIVESHAFT

Also called a propeller (prop) shaft, this is a long rotating shaft that runs all the way down
the centre of the vehicle, bridging the gap between engine/transmission and the wheels by sending
twist to the waiting rubber. Front-engined, front wheel drive cars don’t need to send power down
the line like this; instead they compact the transmission and diff into one unit, called a transaxle.

DIFFERENTIALS (DIFFS)

The differential allows the driven wheels to rotate at different speeds, increasing grip.
Without a differential, the driven wheels would be locked together and forced to spin at the same
speed. This isn’t a problem on the straights, but on corners – particularly when they are tight or
taken with some haste – it would leave one wheel spinning uselessly. As it also helps split the
power out into the two wheels, it gives a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘split the diff’.
AXLES

A wheel won’t turn unless it’s connected by an axle. The axle is the shaft on which a wheel
or a gear rotates.

NOISE, VIBRATION AND HARSHNESS

What is Noise?
Noise is the one that is loud or an unpleasant sound that causes disturbance

What is Vibration?
Vibration is the oscillation of the parts of a fluid or an elastic solid whose equilibrium have
been disturbed of an electromagnetic wave.

What is NVH?
NVH is basically a measure of how much unpleasant aural and tactile feedback the car
delivers as you drive

What are the sources of NVH?

 Aerodynamic (wind, cooling fans of HVAC)
 Mechanical (engine, driveline, tire contact patch and road surface, brakes)
 Electrical (electromagnetically excited acoustic noise and vibration coming from electrical
actuators, alternator, or traction motor in electrical cars)

Sources of NVH in automobile

 Tires
 Flat spots are visible at the bottom of the tire
 This causes the body of the vehicle to shake
  Propeller shaft
 Unbalanced propeller shaft causes a humming noise
or booming
 Unbalanced propeller shaft causes a humming noise
or booming

 Engine
 The engine is the major source of vibrating force
 The force fluctuations are due to combustion to the
engine

Troubleshooting
1. Test drive the car
2. Find out which part causes the problem
3. Use a vibration analyzer to identify the frequency of vibration
 Tires – 15 Hz
 Propeller shaft – 60 Hz to 120 Hz
4. If a vibration analyzer is not available, you can use your hands to feel the vibration
 For Tires:
Rotational speed of tire per sec = Distance the vehicle travels in 1 sec/Tire circumference
For Propeller shaft:
Rotational speed of propeller shaft per sec = Rotational speed of tire per sec x Diff. gear ratio
For the Tires:
1. Inspect the tires visually.
- Check the clearances between each hubs and wheel
- Check the tire run out
- Check the radial run out of the tire
- Check the radial run out of the wheel
2. The run out can be reduced by face matching
3. Use a wheel balance before taking it to the road

For Propeller shaft:

1. If you here a booming
2. Check the balance of the propeller shaft
- Use a vibration analyzer and trial weights
Amount of inbalance = (Vibration level w/o trial weight/ Average of vibration level w/ trial weight
@ 1, 2, 3, and 4) x Weight of trial weight x 1.1
3. If the amount and direction of inbalance is identified, put the same amount to its opposite
direction to balance the shaft.

DAMPERS
-is a device that helps in dissipating an excess energy from a system.
Torsional Damper
-are placed behind the engine as vibrational dampers when the
powertrain does not include a separating and starting clutch.

 Benefits
o Enhanced driving comfort and protection for powertrain
assemblies due to reduced engine vibrations
o Lower installation space requirements
o Easy to integrate in a wide range of powertrains
o Thermal stability over the entire service life via the use of heat-
resistant steel springs
o Superior product quality via the use of large-scale series
technology
o Completely recyclable components
o Remanufacturing possible

Dyna Damp
-for especially critical applications, torsional dampers can reach their limits when the level
of rotational irregularities in the powertrain increases.

 Benefits
o Multi-stage spring characteristic curves possible
o Speed-dependent damping due to grease filling
o Enhanced driving comfort and protection of powertrain
assemblies due to reduced engine vibrations
o Easy to integrate in a wide range of powertrains
o Thermal stability over the entire service life
o Superior product quality via the use of large-scale series
technology
o Completely recyclable components

HRTD Belt Pulley Torsional Damper

-belt damage is a common cause of interruptions to bus
journeys, resulting in dissatisfied customers and the high cost of
replacement vehicles.
 The pulley is divided into a primary and a secondary mass. In combination with a spring
set, outstanding vibration insulation is achieved.

 Benefits
o Multi-stage spring characteristics possible
o Low stiffness for outstanding rotational vibration decoupling
o Stop torque up to 600 Nm to compensate for high loads
o Grease filling for damping and lifetime lubrication
o Maintenance-free
o Cost efficient design via the use of large-scale series parts from passenger car dual
mass flywheels

TRANSMISSION DIAGNOSIS
Transmission
-The transmission is one of the most important parts of any vehicle. It is a series of
components that actually receive power from the engine and transmit this power to the wheels of
the car.
How to diagnose the Problem:
• Is your fluid level correct?
It's important to check your transmission fluid at least twice a year. Not only can a low fluid
level cause your car to shift poorly, it can eventually lead to transmission damage, and a costly
repair. If your car seems to be losing fluid on a regular basis, you may have a leak.

• Is your transmission leaking?

Checking for leaks isn't as trying as it may seem. The transmission is a closed system, so there
are only a few places that can spring a leak (first check you didn't pour transmission fluid
incorrectly). Unless it's been changed to a non-dyed fluid, your car will have red transmission
fluid.
Here are a few places to check for leaks:
 At the filler tube base.
 At the drain hole underneath the transmission.
 Between the transmission and the engine.
 At the selector shaft - the rod that connects your gear shift to the transmission.
 Speed sensor mounting point. This will either be your cable screwing into the
transmission housing or an electronic sensor bolted to the housing.
 The radiator. If your car has a transmission cooler, it's possible that a leak will
cause transmission fluid to leak into the radiator fluid. They don't mix well, so you'll
see it floating around in there.

 Is your filter clogged?

Your transmission's filter is vital to its performance. If you haven't replaced your filter in a
while (or ever for a lot of us), be sure to do this before you start talking about rebuilds or
replacements.
 ENGINE ACCESSORY NOISE
Drive Belt
• A drive belt is a flexible loop of rubber, or
another similar material, that is used to
connect two or more pulleys. These belts
are used to transfer power from the crank
or cam shaft to the alternator, power
steering pump, and various other
accessories. When a drive belt is powered
by the camshaft, the camshaft itself
receives power from the crankshaft via
either a timing chain or belt. Since drive
belts are made from rubber and various
polymers, they wear out through the
course of normal use, and they can also
simply degrade over time.

Accessory Belt Symptoms

People have used all sorts of words to describe the noise that belts make, probably because
belts can squeal and chirp and rumble and squeak. How thoughtful of them to give you a warning
of potential problems.
The noises are caused by vibrations, much like bowing violin strings, and could be early-
warning signs of belt failure. The noises are most often caused by poor belt tension.
Because belts are made of reinforced rubber, they can stretch over time. If the belt slips on
its pulley, it heats up, glazes and slips even more. Slipping belts don't provide enough power to
turn the accessories such as the power steering pump, water pump, alternator or air-conditioning
compressor to which they are connected.
When the belts get glazed and slip, it is time to install a new belt, or several new ones.
In the past, cars had several V-belts and each drove one or two accessories. Usually the
belt for the power steering was not the same as the one that drove the alternator, for instance.
Today, most cars have one wide, flat, multigroove belt that we call a serpentine belt because
it wends its way around all the components. There are exceptions and some cars may have a
serpentine belt and a V-belt.
Most serpentine belt systems have a spring-loaded tensioner that keeps the belt just right.
But like anything mechanical, the tensioner can wear out. This allows the belt to slip. It is not
uncommon for the tech to suggest a new tensioner when installing a new serpentine belt--
especially because these belts last much longer than V-belts and are usually replaced on high-
mileage engines.
If a new belt doesn't stop the noise, chances are that one or more of the pulleys is
misaligned. All should be in direct line with one another. Misalignment sometimes happens if a
component, such as an alternator, is replaced and it sits farther from or closer to the engine than
its predecessor. In some cases, shims are needed to align the components.
Less frequently, a pulley may be misaligned because it is tilted.
DIAGNOSIS
• Set the parking brake.
• Pop the hood open.
• Set the transmission to Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic).
• Start the engine and pay close attention to the noise.
• Gradually increase engine speed and see whether the noise increases with engine speed.
• If the noise doesn't increase with engine speed, it's probably not an engine noise.
• If the noise increases with engine speed, most likely the noise is coming from the engine,
though if you have an automatic transmission it might come from the torque converter.
Most worn-out or loose belts produce a squealing sound. If this is the type of noise you hear:
• Spray some belt dressing on to the belt. If the noise goes away, the belt is the source of the
noise.
• Remove the drive belt or the serpentine belt from the engine.
• Rotate by hand each of the accessory pulleys the belt runs on.
• If one of the pulleys seems unusually hard, wobbles, or feels loose, most likely that's the
source of your noise.
• Now, start and idle the engine for a few seconds. Pay attention to the engine sounds. Rev
the engine a couple of times. If the noise is not present, most likely the belt or one of the
accessories is the source of the noise.

CLUTCH RELATED SHUDDER

What is a Clutch?
A clutch is a mechanical device which engages and disengages power transmission
especially from driving shaft to driven shaft. In the simplest application, clutches connect and
disconnect two rotating shafts (drive shafts or line shafts).
How does it work?
When the clutch pedal is released, the thrust bearing is withdrawn and the diaphragm-
spring load once again clamps the driven plate to the flywheel to resume the transmission of power.

Clutch is Engaged Clutch is Disengaged

Clutch Related Shudder
Diagnosis of Clutch related Shudder
A clutch related shudder, or also known as clutch chatter, is best described as a stutter or
vibration as the clutch is released.
Some clutch chatter problems can be caused by a clutch problem, but often the problem is
caused by something other than the clutch.
Clutch related Chatter Problems:
1. Disc
• Clutch Disc related Contamination: Oil on the disc from an engine or transmission
leak
• Torsion Spring Escaped: usually caused by “popping” the clutch or attempting to
push start the car.
2. Pressure Plate Distorted
• Pressure Plate Related Warped friction plate: Usually due to excessive heat build
up. Can be caused by excessively slipping the clutch
• Warped Diaphram Spring: Defective part
• Uneven Coil Spring Pressures: Defective part. Very few of this style clutch made
today
3. Release Bearing
• Release Bearing Related Damaged or Worn Release Bearing: Usually on very high
mileage cars, or can result from extended operation with a defective pressure plate
• Grooved release bearing guide
• Worn bearing retainer

Differential noise
What is the Purpose of a Rear Differential?
• The differential is the final end mechanism that enables the
creation of torque in the crankshaft before it is distributed
through the transmission, to the drive shaft, and then to the
wheels. This part serves to transmit engine power to the wheels
while also enabling them to have different rotation speeds.
Rear Differential Noise
• The rear differential is made up of many gears
with teeth entwined with each other. The
effectiveness of its function is dependent on
how precise these gears are arranged and
oriented relative to each other.

Diagnosing Rear Differential Noise

• A “whirring” noise while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by bad
pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload. This condition is typically always
diagnosed as a bad ring and Pinion gear.
• A “howl or whine” during acceleration over a small or large speed range is usually caused
by worn ring and pinion gears or improper gear set up.
• “Rumbling or whirring” at speeds over 20 mph can be caused by worn carrier bearings.
The noise may change while cornering or turning.
• Regular “clunking” or loud “clicking” every few feet may indicate a broken ring or pinion
gear tooth.
• “Banging, clicking or clunking” while cornering can be caused by broken cornering gears
commonly called “spider gears”, lack of sufficient positraction lubrication, or worn
positraction clutches.
• A “Rumble” while cornering or turning may indicate bad wheel bearings.
• A steady vibration that increases with the vehicle’s speed can be caused by worn u-joints
or an out of balance driveshaft.
Fixing Rear Differential Noise

• Rear differential noise, when ignored, can lead to major problems and permanent damage
on the ring and pinion. Repair of the differential is usually recommended to be left in the
hands of professionals because of the complexity of the system.
• Instead, what you could do is to boost up the lubrication on the differential instead