Disclaimer

I the author am not responsible for any damages to property, any bodily injury,

or any loss of life or financial loss that may occur due to using the information
in this book. I am also NOT responsible for any laws broken by your use of

this information.

You are responsible for your own actions. If you break a window with a
hammer, that’s obviously your fault.

If a dog that you bought after being inspired by this guide bites somebody,

you’re responsible. If you wrap barbed wire around a 2x4 and hit someone

with it, that’s your fault too.

Please, use common sense. This guide does not encourage illegal activity of

any kind, nor does it encourage setting any sort of trap for another individual.

This guide for informational purposes only.

I am NOT legally responsible for anything you do with this information.
CONTENTS

Introduction
The Humble 2x4
Why the 2x4?
Doubles as a Weapon
Your House
Lighting and Shrubbery:
Probing:
Random Strangers/ Knockers:
Neighbors:
Doors and 2x4’s
The Door Bar
Back Door Wood
Screen/Storm doors
Strike plate/Hinge reinforcement
Door Guard Plates
Glass Sliding Doors
Porch lights and Door alarms
Windows and Nail holes
2x4 Wedge
Nails in Drill holes
Window safety tips
Tactics and Trickery
Call the “Po-lease”
“Lights out” Tactic
Slippery Floor
Safe Room
Improvised Weapons
Anti-Creeper Window
The Mighty Pupper
 Door/Window Routines
The Car Alarm Tactic
Give me A Sign
Neighborhood Watch
Bedroom Security

 Introduction

A 2x4 to many people might just be a piece of lumber. If they want home security they’ll
just go call a corporation to send out a technician to install a state-of-the-art security
system. They’ll be billed every single month for as long as they require “peace of mind”
and that will be all she wrote.
Another fee, and another monthly bill. That scenario is for those with disposable income;
people of middle and upper class. When you make less than $15,000 USD every single
year, you cannot really afford to shell out cash at every single whim. Chances are, you’re
just like myself and most other hard working Americans. You can barely afford to pay rent
and you live from paycheck to paycheck.
Life isn’t just come and go as you please. You’re struggling to provide for you family. You
don’t have the money to go out and buy a new security system.

Realistically, you don’t have to. Yes, burglaries are a very real situation. They are quite
common, often with the intruders being armed.
Your home could be broken into and you wouldn’t be able to really do anything about it.
What many home security companies don’t tell you, is that if the power goes out then
your home security system is rendered useless. Bet it wasn’t worth that monthly price
when it doesn’t even work. It has been shown as well that some burglars “smash and grab”
houses with alarm systems anyway. Cameras are great, but if the intruder covers their
faces, there isn’t much you can do legally.
Most home invasions occur within 1 to 2 minutes. The average burglar spends about 30
seconds in your house, meanwhile the police take at least 5 minutes to respond with your
home alarm system requiring an extra 30 to 45 seconds before actually activating.
It’s easy to see in this scenario why home alarm systems seem to be somewhat of a waste
of money.
If you’ve grown up poor and you’ve been in the poverty class, you’ve likely went your
whole entire life without any form of a security system and gotten by unscathed.
While it is true that a good home security system will deter a lot of potential burglars, the
professional ones generally don’t stay away.

You might be asking yourself, why this guide?

This guide was written mainly because the average door can be kicked
down in less than 10 seconds. Yes, this is with both deadbolt and door knob
locks engaged.
You might go out and buy chain locks and security latches and all this other
nonsense. The reality of those things are that they fail. The only thing a chain
lock provides is a false sense of security. Why waste your precious money on
all these things that don’t work? Any google search will quickly back up my
statement. Those things do not work and are a waste of money. The more
functional home security products that do help prevent break-ins are well over
the $100 range: talk about cash grabbing.
What we’re not told is that you can prevent someone from kicking your door
in completely, all while spending less than $30; assuming you have a drill
handy(if not you’ll have to buy one) and maybe a handsaw.
That’s where this guide comes in: to show the way of ingenuity.

You simply cannot afford to risk your family’s lives on a security system that
gives criminals an extra forty-five seconds. You shouldn’t have to be
unprotected because of your income level, either.
It isn’t always just your valuables that intruders might want. Rape is a
common motive for many home invasions. Even worse than that is murder,
kidnapping and a whole slew of other nightmares.
To delay a home invasion is an appropriate response to these situations, and
could quite literally mean life or death.
By following this guide, you will be able to kick proof your doors, and
perhaps prevent a home invasion entirely.
That isn’t to say that home invasions will be out of the realm of possibilities.
That depends on the burglar, their equipment, the circumstance and among
other things, their determination. The 2x4 bar method is unsightly, yet is very
effective for those not caring about looking like a paranoid individual.
A 2x4 bar likely won’t withstand a chainsaw, but most burglars luckily don’t
carry one. That’s my only qualms about the bar method though, and you can
replace the lumber with a steel rod or pipe to negate the risk of a chainsaw
being used on your door.

In today’s society where mini sledgehammers can be obtained for less than
$20 and used to smash your door in, I think it’s time for a more realistic and
less money driven approach to home security.
You don’t have to spend $100 to kick proof your door, and you shouldn’t have
to.
Protecting your family and your domain is your natural right.

Why pay $100 on a security device when a 2x4 only costs less than $8? The
untreated ones are less than $3, why pay so much for an oversized chain lock?
 The Humble 2x4
Your standard 2x4 is approximately 8’(2.43m) and usually made of pine. It’s length can
greatly exceed 8’ but this fact isn’t relevant. It could be treated which usually entails a
heftier price by a few dollars (which is just saying that it is more resistant to rot than
untreated wood is). What we’re looking at is one of the most versatile pieces of wood in
the world. Next time you go to your local home department store, pick up a fine member
of the 2x4 and smell its sweet wooden smell. Yes, don’t be ashamed if other people look at
you. Who gives a f**k what they think, you’re in love with big wood.

Using a 2x4, you could quickly secure your entire home; that’s assuming you have power
tools like a drill, and something to cut the board with like a hand saw. If you don’t, those
things are inexpensive to pick up from your local warehouse store. Corded drills and
handsaws are relatively inexpensive so they won’t cost a fortune to acquire, unlike the
battery operated hand drills and power saws. All in all, if you calculate the list below; the
cost of having to buy every single item as opposed to paying a continual monthly fee for
the next decade, you will quickly realize the cheaper option.
You don’t have to be a professional carpenter to install bar holders on either side of your
door and cut a 2x4 to fit the width. It’s not hard to do, and you’ll save thousands of
dollars. Plus, the bad guy will break his leg before he manages to kick your door down;
always fun to watch.

If you were to buy everything needed to beef up your home’s security on the cheap,
here would be the list:

(2) 2x4’s (1 2x4 per door, 1 2x4 per 2 windows)

Corded Hand drill
(2) Zinc Bar Holders (Per door)
Hand saw
Measuring Tape
3” #10 (Or Larger) screws
Drill Screwdriver Bits
Drill bit set
3” 8D Common Nails

Do note that if you have a screen/storm door you will most likely consider buying “Hook
and Eye latches” which are relatively inexpensive and cost less than a couple dollars.

If buying “Anti Break Film” for sliding doors, glass windows, or another entryway to your
home, your cost could quickly elevate higher. These haven’t been included on the list, as
most homes do not have sliding doors.
 Why the 2x4?
There isn’t quite anything out there that is so affordable, sturdy, and versatile like a piece
of 2x4 lumber: that’s why. It can be everything from a window wedge or a door bar and
still be improvised as a makeshift club if need be. Your Imagination is the limit here.
You can do nearly anything with it and that’s the beauty of it. It’s widely available and
extremely cheap.
If you’re worried about what other people might say about you having bar holders on your
door frame, then the only advice I can give you is stop worrying about what other people
think. It’s not about them and it never was.
Your home might look unsightly with a section of lumber behind your front door, but that
door is not going to be kicked in by some crackhead on bath salts at 2 a.m. while you are
asleep in your bed. Life’s too short to care about other people’s opinions. If it looks stupid
but it works; it ‘ain’t’ stupid. That’s our motto with this book.

Doubles as a Weapon
Did I mention a 2x4 doubles as a club? It can deliver the force of a baseball bat and costs
significantly less with twice the durability. Sure, it might not fit everybody’s hands but
that can be fixed with a little whittling. You can do all sorts of modifications to it for the
sake of ‘decorational’ purposes. Mind you, that actually using it as a weapon with
modifications like nails, barbwire, or glass shards super glued to it can be deemed
premeditated assault in court; but it damn sure looks cool. Take my advice, and don’t
modify it if you’re going to use it as a home defense weapon. They’re so cheap you can
produce multiple clubs and store them all over the house or in vehicles.
Note: If you use a modified 2x4 as a home defense weapon, see the disclaimer at the
start of this book.

 Your House
You could live in a mobile home in the country, in a mobile home park, or a suburban
neighborhood. You could live in low income housing, an apartment, or in a small farm
house in the woods. Where you call your home is your personal preference; what is certain
is that you also have the natural birth right to defend that home as well. Let’s give a few

pointers.

Lighting and Shrubbery:

-Make sure that lighting is adequate at night. Most homes have an outdoor light near the
front or back doors. Installing an energy saving light bulb that provides light at night is
both a security boost and a deterrent. Generally having a light on outside discourages
burglars and creeps in general from approaching your house as they no longer have the
cloak of darkness to their advantage.

- Shrubbery near windows or doors can aid the invader as it gives them a place to
crouch down and conceal themselves should a car pass by or a neighbor come
outside. It allows them to take their time and remain quiet whilst they steadily work
on gaining entry to your home. If you have bushes growing near the window,
consider removing them.

- Grow shrubbery that is thorny and unpleasant near your windows. This will
deter any potential invaders by causing pain and/or discomfort while trying to find
an entry point. This alone can easily deter a potential invasion altogether, especially
if the front door proved too difficult to bypass.

- Motion lights can also be acquired from the internet, and can be both affordable
and reliable. They can be used to catch intruders off guard and scare off anyone
with bad intentions not wanting to be seen. Obviously the electric motion lights
need to be installed either by you or by an electrician; they also cost money on the
energy bill as well. The best option for motion lights seems to be solar powered
lights. Be sure when mounting to place up high enough so they cannot be stolen or
damaged by thieves.
 - Trees can be climbed and may grant access to upper floors of your house, or the
roof. This can be further problematic if you have a skylight that can be broken.
Consider removing any trees that are adjacent to your house or that have branches
that extend to your roof.

Probing:
Probing is where a random flyer is left attached to your door, or you find a cookie
or some other breakable item under your doormat. To most, this would be
precarious but not at all suspicious enough for them to see the motive behind it.
It’s a clever way criminals check to see if there are any occupants in the house. If
anyone has been living in the house, chances are they will remove the flyer or step
on the cookie. Within a few days after placing the cookie, a thief will come back to
see if the cookie is broken. If it is, they will likely begin planning ways to get into
the house.
Be sure and remove the cookie or flyer and notify local police of suspicious activity
in your area.

Random Strangers/ Knockers:

This goes without saying that you should never open your doors to strangers. Most
seem like they are harmless and so people open the door anyway. The motive
behind this isn’t usually what these people are letting on. Most door knockers are
trying to ‘probe’ your home. Either to see if you’re actually home, or to get you to
open the door and see what you have in your house. They’ll often yell someone
else’s name when knocking, or pretend that they have the wrong house. Their
behavior will always be glancing around you and into your house to see any
valuables they might want later. Then, there’s the chance that they are fixing to kick
in your door and are just wanting to make sure you’re not home. Either way, DO
NOT open the door to anyone you are not expecting.
Neighbors:
Just because you live near someone does not mean that you have to get to know them. You
don’t have to be friends with anyone for living in close proximity to them. You should
however take note of anyone who is over friendly, or seemingly nosey when they
approach you. All too often these are both not genuine behavior and are used as a ploy to
gain your trust and information. If you don’t know anybody, try to keep it that way. You
want to keep your relationships as acquaintances; just enough that your neighbor will be
able to identify you and those who live in the home. That way, suspicious activity will
likely be reported to the police by them.

Your door is often the first point of access into your home and is one of the most
commonly used entrances in a home invasion. It can be kicked in within 10
seconds or less and the reason behind this is simple: the screws.
You heard me right. Your door strike plate is secured to the cheap wooden door
frame itself, rather than the studs beyond the door frame. It’s often held in place
with screws that are less than an inch in length. Why? Well, obviously because the
people who made the doorknobs were more interested in making money than in

your security; typical these days, really.

You might want me to consider the fact that you have a single cylinder deadbolt on
your door. Okay, I did. That still doesn’t stop the home intruder at all. Why? Again,
because the deadbolt also uses tiny little screws.

If you’re wondering how we can fix this problem, the answer is quite simple:
replace the screws with 3” heavy duty screws.
This reinforces the strike plate by using the frame of your house instead of the
frame of the door. This will delay the intruders at least 10-30 more seconds.

Even after reinforcement, there are several weak points in the door beyond just the
strike plates of both the deadbolt and door knob. The hinges are also guilty of
using overly small screws and will also need to be reinforced. 3” screws are your
best bet and therefore should be used to replace every visible screw involving your
door entirely, minus the doorknob and deadbolt screws within the mechanisms.
Those are there for a reason.

For the hinges you should take one screw out at a time and replace it with a 3”
screw. Do not remove all the screws at once or else you’ll have to go through the
trouble of remounting the door onto the frame.

Using these simple modifications, your door will be way more secure than it was
before. It will also be a little bit harder to kick in, too.
If you want complete security from kick-ins though, you’ll have to use the bar
method that is in the next chapter.
 Doors and 2x4’s
The Door Bar
is a method in which you’ll fasten (2) zinc bar holders on either side of the door frame
leveled across from each other. They will then be secured to the inner wall studs of the
frame by 3” screws which you’ll drill in place. Afterwards, simply cut to length a section
of 2x4 that is the width span between the zinc bar holders so that each end of the board

overhangs either side of the bar holders.

Heavily resistant to kick-ins. Make sure the board sits against the door.



Back Door Wood
Isn’t as provocative as it sounds and was used commonly back in the old days by
farmers and country people alike. It was basically a board cut to fit the space
between the door and a sturdy wall or obstacle. It prevents the door from being
opened, but doesn’t provide much security at the top of the door. It’s by far the
cheapest method of home security with a 2x4.

The board is laid on the floor and slid into place between the door and wall. The
less space, the shorter the board.
If it’s a snug fit then the board should prevent the door from being budged
altogether.
This method is definitely cumbersome and was most popular among farmers who
didn’t use the backdoor to their house and so they wedged a board between the two:
hence the name.

Back door wood will get the job done, but can be cumbersome to remove
constantly; it may very well be a trip hazard.
It is better than nothing and therefore should be used if you have no other way of
beefing up your home, or don’t want to cause any damage to your door frame.
Maybe you live in an apartment; either way it works best if you have a wall near
the door.


Screen/Storm doors
Screen/Storm doors are extra layers of security as well as they help prevent rain from
getting underneath your door and cut energy heating and cooling costs. Their latches and
locks alone can be bypassed simply by prying the door open. This is where “Hook and

Eye latches” come into effect.

They help to reinforce your screen door to the frame of the house while increasing the
amount of noise and time it will take intruders to bypass your storm door to get to your
main door.
This method works best on storm doors as opposed to screen doors as screens can be cut.
You’ll have to predrill the holes in the designated locations in order to reinforce the the
doors resistance to prying. The latches are secured on the inside of the door frame and the
eyelets on the storm door itself.
This method ensures to make a hell of alot of noise when the latches finally give way yet
prevent the door latch from being the only defense since it’s so easily defeated. A very
cheap defense upgrade on home security. The inability to easily bypass your first layer
may deter potential intruders altogether.
 Strike plate/Hinge reinforcement
The main weak points in door entryways lie in where the door makes contact with the
frame. These are the hinges and the door strike plate; both require the screws to be
replaced with three-inch screws. The studs of the door frame itself that is a part of the
house are made of solid lumber: therefore reinforcing the door using the frame of the
house instead.
The frame from which your door hangs however is made of cheap wood, and should not
be relied upon for security as they are known to shatter under brute force.

- Remove screws from the hinges one at a time while replacing each removed
small screw with a large #10 3” Torx Screw.
Adding extra hinges further increases strength and durability of the door being
seated onto the frame.

- Remove the small screws from the strike plate. (where the door latch makes
contact with the frame; that peculiar piece of metal you may or may not
already know about) Replace the small screws with #10 3” Torx screws.

This extra reinforcement will further increase your door’s stability during an
attempted invasion, which will decrease their chances of breaking in your door.
At the very least, it will prevent them from kicking it down within 10 seconds.
 Door Guard Plates
Door Guard Plates are steel plates that reinforce where the door knob and deadbolt sit
inside of the door. This are near the latch is known to shatter under force causing the latch

to give way and the door knob to fail.

Adding a door guard plate reinforces this area and allows the door to withstand more
force.
Plates can be found online or at your local hardware store and generally expensive
compared to simply barring the door. However, Guard plates used in conjunction with
extra door hinges and reinforced strike plates for both the deadbolt and the knob will
provide a great deal of durability to an assault on your door. You may choose to go this
route for the sake of aesthetics; yet the door isn’t entirely pry proof or kick resistant as a
door bar would provide. Guard plates are an option that can be used alongside door bars
and other reinforcements for an extra layer of security or for when you’re away and not
able to bar the door.
 Glass Sliding Doors
From a security viewpoint, who the hell thought that building a door made of glass was a
good idea!? You have no privacy. You’re always having to cover the door. It exponentially
increases heating and cooling costs and is a terrible security feature. If you have one of
these doors in your home then anti-break film is definitely a must. You’ll want 8 Mil film
and the thickest you can find. If you cannot afford film, then perhaps a cheap anti-break
glass alarm and use a wooden dowel or piece of lumber to wedge behind the sliding door

to prevent it from being opened.

By far one of the most unsafe doors a house could have. Given, they do look nice and let
in alot of sunlight.

To apply the wedge, cut a dowel or piece of board to the length of the space between the
sliding door and the frame.
Wedge the board or dowel between the frame of the door, at the bottom of the track.

Hell, with a door like this you might as well invest in a home security system! (I’m
kidding by the way.)
 Porch lights and Door alarms
Not wanting to invest extra money into motion lights and fancy gizmos? Simply turn on
your porch light every night. It serves as both a deterrent and a means of illumination. It’s
best used in conjunction with energy saving bulbs and will have to be switched off every
morning; but you’re working with what you have and that’s the smart way to look at it.

A great deterrent to home invasions are 120 decibel door alarms that when used in
conjunction with “Security system on premises” stickers strikes fear in home intruders.

They are quite affordable and extremely loud. Sure to alert you to your door being opened,
and sending the home intruder fleeing into the night.
 Windows and Nail holes
2x4 Wedge

Functioning much like the Glass sliding door counter part or the back door wood, the 2x4
window wedge is simply lodging a piece of lumber or wooden dowel between the moving
window and the frame itself: preventing it from being opened.

To make the wedge, measure the space between the window from the frame to the top of
the moving panel. Cut the board/dowel to fit and make sure it fits tight enough to prevent
falling out yet is easy to remove.
 Nails in Drill holes

You can nail your window shut but still allow it to be opened in an emergency by drilling
out a hole right above the bottom pane at either corner. You’ll drill all the way through the
panel which will make a channel through both top and bottom frames.

Remove the drill bit and insert a nail into the hole.
This method allows you to seal your windows but still provide extra security as the
window cannot simply be broken or the glass be cut with a glass cutter and the latch
unlocked. Rather, the burglar will have to figure out why the window isn’t opening.

WARNING: Leave the nail head sticking out just a little so that it may be pulled out
quickly in an emergency situation such as a fire.
 Window safety tips
- Keep your windows covered with either a thick bed sheet, a curtain, or blinds to
prevent nosy creepers and potential intruders from spying on you and your family.

- When using the nail method be sure to leave the nail head sticking out enough
where you can pull it out quickly, in case of emergencies. It’s a fire hazard to seal
your window completely.

- Anti-break film is a great extra layer for your home’s security as windows
are the second method to which home intruders gain entry to your home.
Combined with a vibration window alarm and the nail method, your
windows will be as nearly as impenetrable as you could possibly make
them.
(y’know aside from actually boarding the windows up…)

- Do not leave your blinds/curtains/sheets open at night or when you’re gone as
people can see in and spy on both your family and probe your possessions.

- Always check the windows before you leave if you live in a house with other
people. The reason being is that you never know when a window was opened last
and so it is better to just check and be on the safe side.

- Do Not seal windows as a form of home security. Windows can be used as
emergency exits and should therefore be as accessible as possible.
 Tactics and Trickery
In this chapter we’re going to be getting into some rather unusual methods of home
security that aren’t for the serious of temperament. From having a plan of retreat to calling
the police; this is probably the most interesting part of the book. We’re talking “Home
Alone” type maneuvers and strategies to gain us the advantage and turn the tide of the
battle.
Or the more recommended method would be to hide and call the police. That works too.

Call the “Po-lease”

While obvious, you should call the police as soon as you detect someone is intruding in
your home. The emergency operator is going to want to keep you with the phone in one
hand and in your ear. Do note, that if you’ve already provided them with the address, there
is no reason for you to remain on the phone with them as you’re making noise and not
remaining quietly hidden. You can leave them on the phone and simply lay the phone
down. It’s better for you to keep both hands free of anything that you cannot protect
yourself with.
Your phone will provide emergency services alone with an address so you don’t really
have to say anything.
If someone breaks into your house:

RUN/FIGHT/HIDE

- Immediately call 911
- Give your name, address, and situation.
- Find a room in your house with a sturdy door.
- Lock and/or barricade the door if possible.
- Arm yourself and remain quiet.
- Do NOT waste time with unnecessary questioning from dispatchers.
- Do NOT leave your safe zone to get a description of the intruders.
- Dispatch will almost always ask if the intruder has a weapon, provide them
information if you know it.
- Don’t make a lot of noise talking to dispatch. Remain as quiet as possible and
stay armed; Do NOT lay your weapon down until police arrive.
- Only fight the intruders if your life depends on it and Do NOT try to reason
with the intruders if they approach you; and if you have no choice, fight with
 everything you have. Goudge the eyes, kick the groin, punch the throat,
whatever you deem necessary to survive and neutralize the threat.
- DO NOT hide in a location where you cannot defend yourself from such as a
really cramped closet or space. If you have a baseball bat, board, frying pan or
other such weapon that requires room to swing, DO NOT hide in a location
that prevents you from doing so.
 “Lights out” Tactic
You likely know your own home better than the intruder. Once you make it to your safe
room and lock the door and having notified police, you can wait near the door with a
weapon and turn the lights out. If the intruders do manage to make it through the door you
can catch them off guard with a blow from your weapon. If you have a firearm, you
obviously can just shoot in their direction as soon as the door opens.

You want the element of surprise here. It will give you a slight advantage if you work fast
with your blows. Be relentless and scream and make as much noise as you can while
striking them.
 Slippery Floor
Quick to utilize but makes one hell of a mess, the slippery floor has you covered (pun
intended) on cheap security. Basically if you find yourself in a room with a
hardwood/linoleum/tile floor and a bottle of cooking oil/mineral oil/laundry
detergent/liquid soap then you’ve all you need to pull a “Home Alone” tactic.
Basically just dump the liquid in front of the door and then lock the door. If they manage
to break through they will slip and fall; allowing you time to get away or attack. If there is
no other exit than the doorway you just covered with cooking oil, then your best bet is to

step on the fallen attacker.

This method is dangerous, and could very well result in both of you falling and injuring
one another. Only use if you have another escape route or are desperate.


Do remember you’ll have to clean it up later.
 Safe Room
The Ideal safe room will have a weapon and a lockable door. Having a backup phone in
this room isn’t a bad idea either.

You’ll want to flee to your safe room as soon as possible and be sure to barricade the door
as well if possible. You can use a 2x4 bar in this room as well. The goal is to have a
location to retreat to and wait for the police to arrive.

Another good idea is to keep most of your valuables in this room as well in order to cut
the burglar’s losses. Having a solid core door and reinforced hinges are a good idea as
well.
 Improvised Weapons
Pens, pencils, scissors, kitchen knives, hammers, boards, golf clubs, baseball bats, heavy
flashlights, etc. There are numerous options with which to arm yourself. The possibilities

are endless as your imagination.

Each weapon will have its advantages/disadvantages and you’ll have to factor in the
durability of the weapon.
The goal here is to inflict enough damage or pain to neutralize the threat should they
decide to attack you.
Blows to the neck, head or spine can be considered deadly force; therefore take caution.

Chances are you’re sitting near something at this very moment that could be used to:
- Stab/Slash,
- Strike
- Strangle
- Bludgeon.



Categorize each object around you in this method to determine what could be used as
a weapon. If it doesn’t fall under any category, then it isn’t a potential weapon.

Anything can be used as a weapon. For instance, you can drop your cell phone in your
sock for a flail-type weapon. You could break a leg off a table for a makeshift club.


The important goal here is to have something to give you an advantage over your attacker.
 Anti-Creeper Window
Take note that intentionally setting any trap for a human being is a serious crime in nearly
every country. This is for entertainment and informational purposes and can easily result
in you or someone you love stepping on it and getting hurt.

Story Time:
Now then, this method was used by a mother protecting her daughter from a local pervert,
and so inspired me to include it in my guide for the sake of entertainment. Supposedly the
daughter had complained of a man peeking into her bedroom window randomly at night.
The mother then nailed several nails into a board and laid it on the ground outside of her
daughter’s window.


She lightly covered it with dirt so as to cover the board but not cover the nails protruding
upright.
After several days, the mother found the board one morning laying in her yard; to my
knowledge that was the end of her daughter’s stalking incident.

Remember: Keep your curtains closed at night. Make sure your children do the
same.
 The Mighty Pupper

When you think of buying a dog for home security purposes, you naturally want the
biggest and baddest breed known to man. You want a rottweiler, or a doberman or maybe
a german shepherd. Realistically, the size of the dog or the breed doesn’t determine it’s
fight. I’ve personally known pitbulls that were big babies that wouldn’t hurt a fly, and then
had poodles that would tear my fingers all to hell with their teeth just for trying to pet
them.

It boils down to most of the more vicious dogs being breeds like the jack russell and
chihuahua. These dogs won’t strike fear into the hearts of home intruders, but they can be
vicious as all hell and make a lot of noise. Good luck getting a Chihuahua to stop growling
and barking. Maybe they are inherently born with “little dog syndrome” and that’s why
they try to compensate by being so fierce. Whatever the case, little dogs are the best way
to go.

Don’t buy a dog and put it on a chain outside all by itself for the rest of its life all in the
name of security. Nah, if you want serious protection then get a small indoor dog.
Take note than having a small dog is still a pet, and so therefore you will have vet bills and
have to provide it with food and water. Dogs also provide the benefit of companionship
and love and should be bought for these reasons over security purposes as they are living
beings worthy of love just like the rest of us.
Chances are if the dog you have bonds with you, it will also protect you: regardless of
breed. Small dogs are easier to care for, but you shouldn’t overlook larger dogs either.

Choose whatever dog you prefer. That’s your personal taste.
 Door/Window Routines
- Check your doors and windows every night before bed to ensure they are
locked.

- Check windows and doors before you leave the home and ensure they are
locked.

You should develop these habits in order to guarantee your family’s safety. More
often than not most home invasions occur through unlocked doors or windows.

Be sure and inspect the door locks after a family member comes home. Try to
remind them to make it a habit to lock the door.

Remember: Your family’s safety is your utmost priority above all else. You
must work together to ensure that your home is safe.
 The Car Alarm Tactic

If you’re fortunate enough to own a vehicle with a car alarm in it, then chances are you
also have a panic button. You can keep your car keys by your bedside and set off the alarm
on your car if you’re within range (depends on the size of your house) allowing you to
scare off any suspicious people near your house.
You don’t even have to go outside for this to work; you could activate the alarm and let it
go off for a few minutes.
It’s a cheap tactic but it works and that’s all that matters.
The car alarm will likely attract unwanted attention from the neighbors and scare off
anyone with bad intentions or whoever happens to be lurking nearby.
 Give me A Sign
Even if you don’t own a dog, putting up a cheap “Beware of Dog” sign from your local
hardware store will work as a deterrent in and of itself. If you do have a dog, then having
this sign in a visible location likely prevents the intruder from suing you if he gets bitten
after breaking in (stupid isn’t it?) and possibly injured or killed by your dog.

A shame we live in a society where criminals can sue you for you defending yourself in
your own home. If you live in a state where you have “castle doctrine” then you likely
don’t have anything to worry about.

Having both “Home security system” and “Beware of dogs” are great deterrents and
relatively inexpensive. You can further add to the idea that you own a dog (even if you
don’t) by putting a ball in your front yard and putting a food bowl on your front porch.

Remember: Dogs alone don’t prevent you from becoming a target.


Neighborhood Watch
Neighborhoods with “neighborhood watch” signs up serve as a deterrent in and of
themselves. It’s where neighbors watch out for each other and call the police on the first
sign of trouble or suspicious behavior. Living in a neighborhood like this is a great idea,
but generally seeing a street with a “watch” sign likely indicates prior criminal activity in
the area.

“Watches” don’t usually ensure you’ll be safe and shouldn’t be viewed in that light.
You’re responsible for your own safety at the end of the day, but knowing that you have
neighbors watching your house does provide some security: albeit small.
If you live in an area like this, you likely already have top notch home security
measurements such as barred windows and steel security doors. Still, the 2x4 door bar will
work in your favor.

You don’t need “neighborhood watch” though, you can simply make friendly
acquaintances with your local neighbors and express any suspicious activity you’ve seen
lately. Ask them to keep an eye out.
 Bedroom Security


You’re most vulnerable when you are asleep. It’s best to sleep in a bedroom with a
lockable door that has a solid core. You can bar the door, reinforce the hinges or all of the
above. You should keep a weapon in your bedroom, along with your vehicle keys and a

cell phone.
Don’t be afraid to invest in a solid core door if you can afford it. It isn’t necessary but you
can pick up a steel door at your local hardware store for under $120 and can reinforce it
with what you see fit.

The takeaway from all this is that your bedroom door is your second layer of defense
standing between you and potential danger. Why it’s worth investing in is simply because
of the question of “What will your spouse do if they are home alone and asleep during a
break in?”

Hollow or Solid?
If your bedroom door is already solid core, then you have nothing to worry about. If you
are not sure what type of door you have, knock on it. You’ll hear if it’s hollow; and if you
still can’t tell apply a little pressure to the center of the door. If there is any give to the
material then you have a hollow core door.

Remember: You don’t have to buy a new door because this book says so; the
investment in the long run seems like a good idea.
Copyright 2018 Micah Coulter
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