Food and Travel Arabia - December 2017 PDF

20WAFINAL
AE
TH
18RDSISTS
Marc
Haeberlin
The interview
Festive
food tour
Eat your way
around the globe
Taste of Luke
Abu Dhabi Nguyen’s
The big guns come to town Vietnam
Asian delight
Scandinavian
cool Montenegro
Santa’s winter paradise Pearl of the Balkans
COMFORTING SOUPS THAT WILL WARM YOUR COCKLES
BOWLS OF VOL 4 ISS 12
WINTER GOODNESS
Mauritius Mahmoud Turkmani Montenegro Stilton Sonya Janahi
Editor Charlie Thompson
Associate Editor Ali Ahmed
Art Director Rebecca Teece Paye
Art Editor Maggie Bonner
Review Editor Mona Mohammed
Online Editor Husain Khaled
Social Media Editor Felicity Spicer
Features Editor Nick Baines
Consulting Editor Sarah Price
Contributing Editor Adrian Back
Contributing Editor Anthea Rowan
Editor-at-Large Marie Barbieri
Editor-at-Large Kevin Pilley
Feature Correspondent Louise Quick
Feature Correspondent Joe Worthington
Director of Publishing Francesca Jackson
Executive Director Salah Alhaiki
Account Director Oliver Davies
Editorial Enquiries
editor@foodandtravelarabia.com
Sales & Advertising
Taste the experience

sales@foodandtravelarabia.com
General Enquiries
Experience the taste

info@foodandtravelarabia.com
Food and Travel, UK

Mark Sansom, editor
mark.sansom@foodandtravel.com
Food and Travel, Germany
I
Stefanie Will, editor n the Middle East, we are now amongst the world’s most adventurous
stefanie.will@foodandtravel.com travellers and gastronomers. Horizons are broad, tastes eclectic.
Food and Travel, Mexico Every month, Food and Travel Arabia brings these two naturally
Cecilia Núñez, editor complimentary interests together in a single magazine. Food and
cecilia.nunez@lyrsa.com.mx
Food and Travel, Turkey
Travel Arabia is about adventure, the quest for new foods and new
Mehmet Tel, editor flavours, and the discovery of new places and new friends.
mehmet.tel@foodandtravel.com.tr Our best travel and food writers have been briefed to search the world for
Food and Travel, Italy exciting destinations, the latest restaurants and the finest cooking. The
Marco Sutter, publisher result is award winning editorial covering the world’s favourite pastimes -
publisher@foodandtravelitalia.com
Food and Travel, Portugal
food, drink and travel. Every month we get up close and personal with some
Jose Fragoso, publisher of the region’s kitchen favourites to talk seasonal produce and personal
jose.fragoso@foodandtravel.com.pt culinary development, inspiration and of course key interviews. Our expert
team seeks out gastronomic gems in some of the world’s most exciting
destinations marrying food and travel in beautifully photographed features
to whet your appetite. Get the low down on the latest in haute cuisine with
WINNER expert opinion and insights from some of the world’s most talented award
PPA Independent Publishing Company of the Year winning and Michelin Starred chefs. Read honest and independent hotel and
WINNER restaurant reviews from around the region and around the world; Recreate
PPA Publisher of the Year the chefs’ favourite dishes at home from our detailed recipe section and
Food and Travel Magazine is published by Green Pea follow the progress of your favourite restaurant, hotel or destination
Publishing Ltd, Ingate Place, London, UK. Food and Travel
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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 3

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December 2017
ARRIVALS TRAVEL 60 Monte-where …? Rugged
7 News Discover the latest 26 Hot springs Thermal springs mountains, medieval villages and
happenings in the world of food and health-giving herbs, Victoria’s a dramatic Adriatic coastline;
& travel peninsula of earthly delights Montenegro is the pearl of the
awaits the healthy lifestyle-lover. Balkans
18 The Food and Travel Awards
It’s that time – discover who has 49 Tasty treats We meet the stars 74 City chic Aloft al Ain the UAE’s
made the final expert judging as Taste of Abu Dhabi comes latest boutique hotel
round of the 2018 Awards to town 78 Dorset The UK’s south coast
64 Seven seas of wry Food and has so much to offer and
TALK Travel columnist Kevin Pilley Dorset is a beautiful and often
12 The interview Three Michelin- takes us for Bahamian culinary overlooked treasure.
starred Marc Haeberlin, whose stroll 82 Snow, snow, thick, thick
family culinary dynasty dates snow Age-old Scandinavian
back almost 150 years FOOD winter traditions, from visiting
46 A taste of … Sanjeev Kapoor 20 The pantry We discover tasty Santa in Lapland to watching the
In conversation with chef festive recipes for a sultry stilton Northern Lights
extraordinaire and India’s and delectable dates
favourite son 32 Bowls of winter goodness TRIED & TASTED
66 Luke Nguyen’s Vietnam We Comforting and robust soups 87 The big cheese With the
caught up with Luke in the that will warm the cockles of festive season soon upon us we
country of his heritage, and your heart sample Artisan cheeses
discovered more about his 52 Festive food tour Take a
passion for food and his new 88 Places to eat Celebrate a good
festive eating tour around the old British Christmas, enjoy a
restaurant world without leaving your Vietnamese new year in Dubai,
72 The golden ticket Maya La kitchen, thanks to these a seasonal afternoon tea in
Chocolaterie has established traditional drinks, treats and side Scotland and savour exquisite
itself as one of the regions dishes. French cuisine Gordon Ramsey
leaders in the art of fine 92 Recipes This month’s collection style in Bordeaux
chocolates We talk to of mouth-watering recipes for
Chocolatier-in-Chief 90 Places to stay Tropical
you to try at home modernism in Sri Lanka, culture
Sonya Janahi
in Rome, Geneva winter
98 The last word Mahmoud DESTINATIONS wonderland, and dance the night
Turkmani We talk to the talented 42 The Eden Isle Mauritius, Mark away in Abu Dhabi
Head Chef of 7Elephants Dubai Twain’s very own piece of
paradise

Why make coffee
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you enjoy café-style quality coffee.
With a fully-automatic steam wand, you
can now create perfectly textured milk set
to your preferred temperature, at home.
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or an evening to remember, welcome 2018 in style at the Waldorf
Astoria’s grand New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner at the Peacock Alley.
Enjoy the lavish international buffet, featuring dishes from across the
globe, certain to tempt even the most discerning of palates. Dinner includes
a free flow of selected beverages with a glass of bubbly at midnight; as you
enjoy live music at the complimentary New Year’s Eve party, be a part of
the countdown, and watch the spectacular fireworks display from the hotel’s
private beach. Served from 7pm till 1am on December 31; priced at $330pp
incl. unlimited drinks. For more information call +971 7 203 5555 or visit
waldorfastoria3.hilton.com
7 FOOD & TRAVEL

Arrivals
NEWS
A VERY RAFFLES CHRISTMAS
BOUCHON BAKERY DUBAI DUBAI
Holder of seven Michelin stars, world renowned chef Thomas Keller, has ’Tis the season to be jolly and what better place to
brought his unique take on a French boulangeries to Dubai, Bouchon Bakery; celebrate than at Raffles Dubai, with a Christmas
located in The Beach, Jumeirah Beach Residence. The bakery offers a unique calendar that is filled with festive delights and family
blend of American warmth and French charm; and with the summer heat fun. Warm up for the holiday season with the
behind us, enjoy al fresco dining amidst the privacy of Bouchon’s delightful Festive Afternoon Tea and Gingerbread House
terrace. In addition to Thomas Keller’s famed artisanal breads, viennoiseries, Workshop. Indulge in afternoon tea with a yuletide
tarts, confections and pastries, Bouchon offers a chic spot to enjoy light-bites, twist served in Raffles Salon throughout December.
such as sandwiches, quiches, soups and salads, accompanied by Bouchon The Fashion Afternoon Tea features an array of
Bakery’s exclusive coffee - the rich and complex Thomas Keller Espresso festive sweet and savoury delicacies such as
blend, the product of a 15-year collaboration between Chef Keller and Equator clove-cured salmon timbale, mince pies, spiced
Coffees & Teas. Bouchon Bakery is open from 8am to 11pm weekdays and orange chocolate mousse, and blackcurrant and
8am to 12 midnight on weekends. Stay up-to-date with all upcoming activities cinnamon scones. A hand-painted, wall-sized
and recipes by following @BouchonBakeryME on Instagram and Facebook. advent calendar will be counting down until
For further information call +971 4 419 0772. Christmas, with fabulous presents revealed every
day from behind each door. While you savour tea
and treats to the magical sound of festive
favourites played by Raffles resident pianist, the
kids can spend the afternoon at Raffles’
Gingerbread House Workshop. Under the
supervision of Raffles chefs, little ones will learn
how to assemble and decorate their own
gingerbread house. The Christmas Collection –
Fashion Afternoon Tea is served daily from
December 1 –to 31 from 2pm to 7pm, and is
priced from $69 per couple, the Gingerbread
House Workshop is priced at $30 per child,
including a cup of hot chocolate. Workshops take
place on December 9,12,16,19 & 29.
For Christmas Day, Raffles Ballroom and Raffles
Garden transform into a winter wonderland,
whisking you away for a magical day of incredible
cuisine, the finest beverages, enchanting music
and sparkling atmosphere. Feast on freshly
THE DOMAIN BAHRAIN prepared charcuterie, fine cheeses, seafood and
The Domain hotel and Spa is set in the heart of the Diplomatic Area, and is the decadent desserts, as well as an extensive carvery
ideal spot to enjoy your Yuletide fare this Christmas. Take the stress out of the with all the traditional trimmings. Little ones will have
festive season and tuck into a culinary feast as you take in the spectacular vista a day to remember with children’s entertainment,
of the Bahrain Skyline. Start your holiday weekend with the Christmas Friday and of course, a special visit from Santa himself.
Brunch, served from 12 noon till 4pm on 22 December. Let the award winning Raffles Christmas Day Brunch takes place on
culinary team tempt you with a delicious festive feast, including turkey carved at Monday, December 25 and is served from 1pm to
your table, a selection of treats and much more. The Christmas Brunch is priced 4:30pm. Prices start at $130pp inclusive of soft
from $62pp including soft drinks. If you are looking for something a little different beverages, children aged 7 to 12 $69, and
then savour Christmas Day Dinner with Chef Riichiro’s festive, 7-course children aged 6 or under eat for free. For more
seasonal Christmas Day menu; served on 25 December from 7pm; prices start information call +971 4 324 8888, or visit
at $65pp including soft drinks, and $27pp for children aged 5-12. For the more raffles.com/dubai
traditional enjoy a special 4-course set menu at Le Sauvage, available 24-26
December from 6pm till 11pm, with prices starting at $62pp including soft
drinks. For more information visit www.thedomainhotels.com or call
+973 1600 0000
8 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

FESTIVE FLOWER POWER UAE
Bliss Flowers has been bringing the best floral design to
the UAE for almost a decade. The team of talented
florists bring their artistic passion to every floral
arrangement; every Bliss floral design is clean, and
fresh, adding a fragrant contemporary note to any
space. Transform your home this Christmas with
LUX* GRAND GAUBE Mauritius bespoke floral designs by BLISS Flower Boutiques
Heaven was modelled on Mauritius — at least, according to the writer personalised home flower service; surprise your loved
Mark Twain; and the lush greenery and gently lapping shallow lagoon one with a floral Christmas Day surprise. Pre-order
waters of Grand Gaube would have you believing this. The sheltered before the 15 December to enable the florists to work
north-facing resort has been cleverly remodelled to greet you with a their magic on the night before Christmas. Choose from
staggering, uninterrupted view of the Indian Ocean as well as the bespoke floral designs, including dining table centre
offshore islands. No stone of the former building has been left un- pieces, floral garlands and seasonal wreaths all tailored
turned as part of the US$32 million renovation program, while the to your own personal requirements. Free consultations
natural setting has been preserved — wild flowers scent the lovingly are available throughout December. For more information
tended gardens and the postcard-perfect scenes are sound-tracked or to order on-line visit blissdubai.com
by layers of birdsong.
This Indian Ocean paradise now has its own retro-chic tropical
retreat. Whoever said life is about the journey, not the destination,
clearly hasn’t visited LUX* Grand Gaube. The resort is very much
about enjoying every moment of your stay, so you go home smiling.
Surprises await around every corner – the kind of considered touches
you dream of from a holiday. Seek out the photography studio, find an
art class, or experience a cookery lesson culminating in a delicious
lunch of all that you’ve learned. The generously proportioned rooms
with balconies or terraces, romantic junior suites and showstopper
villas with private pools and gardens - all come complete with Indian
Ocean vistas. Savour the culinary delights of the live cooking stations
at the Palm Court, Peruvian and Argentinian cuisine at INTI, authentic
Creole flavours at Bayan and a Turkish twist at Bodrum Blue. Not to
forget the famous Café LUX*, a French Kiss Mobile Bar, The G&T
100 Club plus Beach Rouge and a host of surprises at every turn - FLYING HIGH Saudi Arabia
resort living has never looked or tasted so good. To discover more Sky Prime Aviation Services is the largest private aviation
visit www.luxresorts.com operator in the Middle East, with its main base of
operations in Riyadh. Every aircraft in the fleet has been
carefully selected to suit a variety of needs and is fully
BATEEL UAE equipped with cutting edge technology and luxurious
Bateel is offering a range of unique festive gift boxes, advent calendars, cabins. With a dedicated team of experienced pilots,
stocking fillers and charming sleigh hampers, ideal for the upcoming cabin crew, engineers and other aviation professionals,
holiday season. Sweeten the countdown to Christmas Day with Bateel’s Sky Prime is able to provide the ultimate in VIP service any
exquisite range of advent calendars, perfect for children and adults alike time, anywhere in the world. So it should come as no
to savour a Bateel treat each day throughout the month. Delight in a surprise that this enterprising business should see a 40%
selection of the finest Bateel dates and original chocolates presented in growth in flight charters and a 20% growth in its elite
a wide range of gift boxes and festive ornament ball boxes, perfect for clientele. Sky Prime has invested in six new luxurious
that special something. Or treat the family to a Bateel gourmet hamper. aircraft from Airbus and Gulfstream to Phenom and
Truly customisable, Bateel’s luxury hampers are for those who love the Embraer; extending its luxury fleet. Sky Prime EXECUTIVE
finer things in life. Simply choose from Bateel’s wonderful range of offers the most competitive price customized service, for
beautiful packaging, including the enchanting festive sleigh, and fill with a companies, business owners, and senior executives alike.
bespoke selection of gourmet products, from the finest Bateel dates and Sky Prime EXECUTIVE frees you from all hassle of
chocolates to festive cakes and sparkling juices to winter jams and commercial air travel. Pick your departure and arrival time
gourmet teas to create the ultimate foodie’s dream present. Charm your to suit your schedule and Sky Prime is there for you 24/7.
loved ones with a Bateel tray; the perfect centre-piece for any festive When every minute counts EXECUTIVE aviation by Sky
setting. Visit bateel.com to discover more. Prime is your answer. www.skyprimeav.com

Arrivals
NEWS
A Frosted Winter Paris

Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris brings the true spirit of
Christmas to life this year with their joyful festivities, offering you
a grand celebration to remember! Le hotel is transforming its
outdoor patio into a memorable ski resort through to the middle
of February, offering a trip to the mountains without having to
leave Paris! Whilst lounging in one of the snow-covered
gondolas or snuggled up in the wooden cabins, it will be
Trianon Palace Versailles difficult to resist the truffle hotdogs, smoked salmon waffles or
Celebrate the magic of Christmas at Trianon Palace Versailles, A Pierre Hermé ‘s delicious macarons filled with unexpected
Waldorf Astoria Hotel. Enjoy an eight course gourmet Christmas flavours such as foie gras, white truffle or caviar.
Eve dinner at the Michelin-starred restaurant, Gordon Ramsey au The Royal Brunch is available on Christmas Day and New
Trianon, offering exquisite French cuisine against the backdrop of Year’s Day. The hotel’s talented chefs will celebrate these
the Parc de Versailles, or welcome in the New Year at Gordon special occasions by adding gentle touches to the brunch
Ramsey au Trianon with a nine course dinner featuring the likes of menu, with the addition of oysters, shellfish and other
roasted Scottish scallops, braised wild turbot and black truffle brie delicacies including minibûches “Cristal” or the “Mahogany”
de meure. Rates at Trianon Palace Versailles over the Christmas pie from Pierre Hermé Paris.The Royal Brunch is served on
period start from $325 per room per night on a B&B basis. December 25 and January 1, priced at $225pp including a
glass of vintage bubbly.
For reservations and more information please call
+33 142 998 800 or email bookus.paris@raffles.com
WINTER WONDERLAND DUBAI

Gather your friends and family for four days of festive fun as the
Dubai Winter Festival returns to Dubai Media City Amphitheatre LE GRAY BEIRUT
from 6-9 December for everything you love about Christmas all in This December, Le Gray, Beirut is inviting you to discover an
one place. Celebrating its 6th year the largest weekend of festive exciting festive season in the vibrant city of Beirut. Located in
fun in the UAE has been extended with doors opening for the first the heart of downtown, you will be in the middle of all the
time on Wednesday afternoon, December 6. New events include a celebrations and attractions. Le Gray, Beirut is close to the
Party Garden VIP area for the grown-ups, the launch of Dubai’s trendy shopping areas, local attractions as well as many of the
largest pub quiz, and a talent contest to search for the UAE’s most city’s historic landmarks; the ideal point to explore the city.
talented young star, Dubai Winter Festival is guaranteed to get you During December, Beirut transforms into a magical festive
into the festive spirit whatever age you are. Santa will be taking holiday scene. In the historical churches of downtown Beirut,
time out of his busy schedule to make a special appearance at the you can experience the Beirut Chants Festival that celebrates
Santa’s Grotto, kids can make their own edible gingerbread house classic, sacred and ethnic music of the season, or see the
in the fun family workshop led by French Bakery, have fun playing city’s historic streets illuminated with festive lights.
in real snow in the Haribo Snow Play Zone where snow will fall on A contemporary luxury festive retreat beckons; the hotel’s
the hour every hour, and the Splash N Party Kid’s Zone will keep world-class eateries are sure to tempt with spectacular Christmas
the children entertained with activities including arts & crafts, zip and New Year spreads across all outlets. Bar ThreeSixty is a
line, bungee jump, face painting and more! For the grown-ups regular with the city’s distinguished crowds for New Year’s Eve
Dubai Winter Festival is hosting the VIP Party Garden with festive offering 360 degree views of the city’s skyline; the best place to
games, competitions, Lucky Voice Karaoke, and special winter catch the fireworks! While Indigo on the Roof, one of Beirut’s top
beverages meaning there is a place for adults to get into the dining attractions, is the ideal destination for a family festive lunch
Christmas spirit too. The Party Garden will host Dubai’s largest pub or dinner. The new Lobby Lounge will also be offering festive
quiz on Wednesday evening to get the festivities started. The fun inspired treats and is the ideal pit-stop for a quick bite and drink
doesn’t stop there with a new 15-meter snow – tubing slide, this with friends. And if you are looking for a more relaxed stay, enjoy
year’s Pantomime, followed by festive music, live music unrivalled pampering at PureGray Health Club & Spa, which has
performances, non–stop entertainment and plenty of giveaways to been ranked amongst the top 10 spas in the region.
win. Tickets are on sale now! 45% discount on early bird tickets Rates at Le Gray, Beirut during the festive season start at
won’t be around for long so grab them before they go. To find $515 plus taxes. For more information, please visit
out more visit www.dubaiwinterfestival.com www.legray.com or call +961 1 96 28 28

Dynasty Marc Haeberlin
The Haeberlin family culinary dynasty dates back almost
150 years; Food and Travel sent Sarah Price to speak
with Michelin Maestro Marc Haeberlin

THE INTERVIEW
Left: Mark Haeberlin; Plating Tortellini de Volaille in

the RitzCoffier kitchen
“
My whole life I have thought about Michelin stars. In my family
we have Michelin blood running through our bodies”. While
such a statement could be considered presumptuous, for
chef Marc Haeberlin it is entirely apt and completely warranted.
The Haeberlin family is quite simply a culinary dynasty to be
reckoned with. Four generations of chefs have run a restaurant on
the river Ill in Alsace, north-eastern France, in a timeframe spanning
well over a hundred years. It all began back in the early 1880s,
when Marc’s great-grandfather and his wife established a small
country inn where they cooked simple, Alsace-style dishes using
local produce and ingredients. Over time, they were joined by their
son Frederic and his wife (a talented pastry chef) and the restaurant
became increasingly successful.
Years passed and in 1945 disaster struck – or perhaps fate
intervened – and the inn was destroyed. Five years later though and
in that very same spot, Paul Haeberlin (Marc’s father) a classically
trained chef who had already started to make something of a name
for himself in the kitchens of Paris and his brother Jean-Pierre (who
took exquisite care of the front of house) opened L’Auberge de L’Ill
to almost instant acclaim.
The restaurant quickly became known for its innovative yet
respectful interpretations of classic French dishes and Paul
established himself as something of a culinary legend. They were
awarded their first Michelin star in 1952, a second followed in 1957
and a much-coveted third star was given in 1967.
While this is a huge achievement in itself, what sets this
restaurant and the family behind it apart is that they have held on
to those hard-fought for three stars for so long. In September of
this year they celebrated the restaurant maintaining that rating for
fifty consecutive years, an achievement that Marc lists as one of
two career highlights (the second being a decade earlier when they
marked the forty year anniversary and both his father and uncle
“The restaurant was awarded

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THE INTERVIEW
MARK HAEBERLIN
“The Michelin stars awarded to

L’Auberge de L’Ill are an important
part of the restaurant’s history”
were still alive).

“The Michelin stars awarded to L’Auberge de L’Ill under the
leadership of my father and uncle are an important part of the
restaurant’s history. Not only have they enabled us to welcome
guests from all over the world, but also they have driven us to
continue innovating the French cuisine,” he explains.
Marc says that as a child although it was his dream to race cars
for a living (“I probably would’ve crashed!”) but there was something
about life in the kitchen that simply felt right. “ I was lucky enough
to train under some highly esteemed chefs during my career. This
started when I was very young under the watchful guidance and
mentorship of my father who taught me many things,” he explains.
“My formal training started at hotel school in Strasburg before I went
to work in Lyon and Paris.
I was lucky enough to learn from some of the most celebrated
master chefs in France, including Paul Bocuse, who I greatly
admire. I also learned from René Lasserre and Gaston Lenôtre as
well as Jean and Pierre Troisgros.”
The pull of family and home proved strong for this young chef
though: “At the end of 1976 I came back to Alsace, and have
lived opposite L’Auberge de L’Ill ever since. I love being there and
to this day my favourite dish to cook is one of my father’s from fifty
years ago: frogs legs mousseline made with cream, eggs, chives
and spinach.”
When his father retired Marc seamlessly assumed the mantle,
and while Paul Haeberlin’s name will remain firmly on the list of
French culinary greats, today Marc is a hugely well-respected and

This spread, clockwise: Mark Haeberlin in the kitchen; Lakeview
of the Palace Hote; Burgundy Snail Fricassee at RitzCoffier;
Mignardises at RitzCoffier; Finger Mango Coco at RitzCoffier.
very much admired chef in his own right. Like his father before him
he too is credited with pushing culinary boundaries and says that
these days travel is a major source of inspiration.
“I love to travel and experience new spices and flavours and
different types of cooking. There are many techniques that I have
transferred to French cuisine from places like Thailand, Morocco,
India, Italy and the Arabian countries, while still keeping to our French
culinary roots. My style is classic French with some inspiration of
other types of cooking. There is a mix of modern and traditional
techniques, flavours and styles and, of course, mousseline!”
In synergy with this innovative, forward-thinking approach is
a core belief that good food and cooking is rooted in getting the
basics right: “Very importantly, great food needs great ingredients.
To make good cuisine you have to have quality in every ingredient
and the chefs must know how to extract the different flavours and
textures.”
It might sound simple but his observation that when it comes to
great cooking quality and skill must combine makes the upmost
sense and crucially is not always recognised: “A successful kitchen
makes a successful restaurant and the key to that success lies in
two things: first the chef and the chef’s team. Secondly, the way the
chef uses products and how they are transferred to the plate can
define and influence success.”
Haeberlin is generous in his praise for the talent and dedication of
his staff: “We have an excellent team, some of whom have worked
here for up to 30 years”. He also says that he feels the longevity
of the restaurant and its continued success is very much down to
the passion and commitment of those that work there. “The most
important thing is to give soul to a restaurant. You cannot do that
with money, it comes from the people who work with us”. In an
industry rife with egos, it is wonderfully refreshing to hear a chef,
particularly one of the calibre of Haeberlin, being so humble.

THE INTERVIEW
MARK HAEBERLIN
This page: Auberge de L’il Night; Auberge de L’il table details;

Auberge de L’il restaurant.
“This latest endeavour sees Haeberlin taking on the role of Signature

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Having achieved so much already, his latest endeavour sees of the location and the quality of ingredients that his kitchen will
Haeberlin taking on the role of Signature Chef for RitzCoffier at the have access to, as well as the discerning nature of the customers.
Palace Hotel, Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne in Switzerland. As “Swiss people care a lot about proximity of products. This interest
the name suggests this is a restaurant of great heritage, playing is very strong here compared to other countries and the tastes and
homage as it does to Auguste Escoffier (regarded these days demands of the clientele are also based on the quality and the
as the first celebrity chef) and César Ritz, the man responsible origin of the products. In Switzerland you have excellent produce:
for pioneering the idea of the luxury hotel. Both are revered as wonderful ingredients of the highest quality that is unmatched in
innovators and industry giants and shared a career-long association other countries.”
that saw huge success at the Savoy in London and the Ritz in Paris. This is a man who shows no sign of slowing down, resting on his
The décor inside the RitzCoffier is designed with a reverent laurels or surrendering his hands-on approach. While Marc admits
nod to the 19th century kitchen, thanks to the majestic restored the in order to achieve a true work-life balance he should probably
fireplace from the Grand Hotel at the Bürgenstock Resort, a vast spend a little more time with his family and grandchild, he counters
array of decorative copper pots (similar to those famously favoured this by adding that for the Haeberlin’s work and family continue to
by Escoffier), oak floors complete with herringbone mosaic and the be as tied together as they were a century ago and a number of
Grand Hotel’s lovingly salvaged original fridges and oven. relatives work at the restaurant today.
Haeberlin says that running the kitchen will present a new but Marc rises at 6.30am every morning and after breakfast with
very welcome challenge, both for him personally and for the his wife, spends the day at the restaurant where he continues to
carefully selected, esteemed team he will be ably supported by. “At be involved in all areas: testing new dishes, preparing vegetables,
RitzCoffier, which will innovate traditional fine dining in Switzerland, sorting deliveries. Haeberlin allows himself a short rest in the
we have Bertrand Charles as Chef de Cuisine. He has worked as afternoon, but returns to the kitchen for evening service and often
Chef de Cuisine under Michelin-starred chefs such as Jean Pierre doesn’t finish until midnight. It sounds a gruelling schedule, yet it is
Vigato of Apicius and Jean François Piège at the Hotel de Crillon. clearly one he loves. When asked what he would like the future to
Chef Charles has also directed the kitchens of luxury hotels in hold, his answer is a simple one: “I hope that we can keep our three
Morocco, Mauritius and the Philippines.” Michelin stars a little longer – we work everyday for that – and I hope
It is, he explains, a fantastic opportunity particularly because that I can stay in good shape and cook for a few years more.”

FOOD & TRAVEL
AWARDS 2018
You have truly made your voice heard this year with almost two million votes cast
across the Gulf for this year’s GCC Food and Travel Awards - now discover who
has made the finals!
ast month we announced the finalists for 2018 GCC
L Food & Travel Awards

Over the last few months almost two million of you
inundated us with votes for your favourite hotels, restaurants, VISIT
chefs, and airlines in the GCC Food and Travel Awards and
you have truly made you voices heard.
See if your favourite hotel or restaurant has made the finals www.foodandtravel.me
to be judged by the expert panel. www.gcctourismawards.com
The winners will announced at the Awards Gala Ceremony
in March 2018. to discover who has
A big thanks to you all for your votes and valuable feedback
made the finals in
each category

Pantry
THE
PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: SUKAINA RAJABALI

WORDS, RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: SARAH PRICE

Stilton
KEY ING REDI EN T:
STILTON TART
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
f there’s a cheese that’s synonymous Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire. Stilton is a grown-up cheese - and by
I with Christmas – of festivities and

feasting, family time and food in
abundance – then glorious stilton is surely
With its cylindrical shape and crackled
golden crust stilton looks rather special too.
Most distinctive of all though are the
that we don’t just mean well matured. It has
a real depth of flavour, managing to be at
once mellow yet complex-tasting, buttery
it. Whether you purchase it by the wheel or meandering web of fine blue veins that and rich, with an underlying spiciness.
wedge, there’s something about this rich, taper out from the middle of the cheese. Those who are new to stilton may have to
creamy, ever-so-slightly tangy cheese that These are a result of the core being pierced try it a few times before you fall for it, but
tastes of special occasions and with stainless steel needles at specific after that there will be no going back.
celebrations. points during the aging process, introducing This year we say forget about compiling
As cheese go, this one is rather exclusive. air into the equation and encouraging a festive cheese platter filled with myriad
Its origins have been contested for bacteria to grow. Far from being off putting, different choices. Instead go bold with your
hundreds of years and nowadays, due to this is natural food alchemy at its very best board and offer a single generously sized
its protected status and EU trademark, and causes the cheese to develop its piece of stilton. This makes sense for a
stilton is solely produced by six UK dairies, creamy, semi-soft texture and distinctive whole host of reasons. Rather than guests
all located in the counties of Leicestershire, salty-sharp taste. becoming distracted by an array of options

THE PANTRY
STILTON MINI SCONES

– which may or may not complement each develop optimum flavour and texture. nature’s longest cultivated ingredients (they
other –, all attention will be focused on this Because of its slightly acidic, piquant are believed to have been eaten as early as
one majestic-looking (and tasting) cheese. taste stilton works brilliantly when matched 4000BC), today dates are as popular and
A larger piece will also keep better, is likely with sweet flavours, think juicy figs and relevant to our eating as ever. Much like
to be more cost-effective and will yield crisp, dewy pears, plump dried apricots, quinoa and avocados, pomegranates and
leftovers perfect for using in the recipes that walnuts and a drizzle of honey. Serve coconut water in recent years’ dates have
follow. handsomely accompanied by earthy gained recognition as a superfood, securing
To ensure you get the very best from your oatcakes, crisp water crackers or thin their status as trendy ingredient du jour and
stilton it’s well worth bearing a few things in slivers of nutty fruit bread and you’ll have popping up on menus in the hippest of
mind. Wrap in parchment or wax paper and yourself a cheeseboard fit for the most restaurants and cafes in salad, smoothie,
store in an airtight container in the fridge - special of Christmas tables. dessert and drink form.
this will prevent the cheese from tainting the Pleasingly this ubiquity is warranted. Not
flavour of other ingredients and vice versa. t’s not often that you encounter a food as only are dates a real treat to eat, they bring
Remove an hour or so before you want to
serve to allow the chill to come chill off and
give the cheese time to breathe and
I deeply imbued with history and cultural
significance as the fruit of the ancient
date palm tree. Despite being one of
with them a whole host of nutritional
benefits: they’re packed with vitamins and
minerals, provide more potassium than

THE PANTRY
DATE ENERGY BALLS
Dates
KEY ING REDI EN T:

THE PANTRY
DATE SHAKE
bananas, have significant antioxidant cream cheese. Medjool dates, in particular, are fantastic
properties and are an excellent source of There are hundreds of different varieties for cooking with and act as a natural
fibre. of date, from plump, deep-black Kimia to sweetener, imparting a lovely richness and
When pesky mid-afternoon cravings for honeyed Deglet Nour, as well as drier a treacle-like depth of flavour. Their inherent
something sweet strike look to dates options such as chewy, nutty-tasting stickiness also means they help bind
instead of your usual slice of cake or Thoory. Given this abundance selecting a ingredients together and add an extra layer
cheeky bar of chocolate and you’ll reap the favourite can be rather befuddling. While of moisture that can take a dish from so-so
benefits later. Because the energy in dates there’s certainly no harm in conducting to sublime. The date and coconut bites in
is released slowly, it doesn’t cause the taste tests a-plenty, it’s worth noting that the the recipe that follows are ideal as a healthy
same peak in blood sugar levels which Medjool date is known as the ‘king of dates’ on-the-go snack, but they’d also make a
means you’ll feel fuller and more satisfied – and with good reason. Soft and sticky lovely edible gift and will end a festive meal
for longer and won’t experience a post- with golden-amber skin, creamy flesh and a in style. The date shake meanwhile is just
snack energy slump. If a date on its own gorgeous-spiced caramel flavour, Medjool the thing for boosting energy levels and
doesn’t feel quite indulgent enough and you might be slightly pricier than other types of providing a dose of something wholesome
fancy something really delicious, fill stoned date, but in this instance the added if you happen to be feeling a little tried and
dates with a trickle of nut butter, labneh, or expense is well worth it. rundown this December.

HOT SPRINGS
From thermal springs to steam pods and gardens blossoming in health-giving
herbs, Victoria’s peninsula of earthly delights awaits the healthy lifestyle-lover.
still remember the first time I sunk my aching body into hot springs. It
Iwas when I first fell in love with the therapeutic benefits of geothermal
waters and health and wellbeing. So, today I’m driving southeast of
Melbourne bound for one of the country’s most celebrated hot springs
destinations: the Mornington Peninsula.
PENINSULA HOT SPRINGS

Beneath the wetland swales of Fingal, natural hot springs steam
among the native vegetation. The therapeutic benefits of these
10,000-year old waters are believed to detox the body, strengthen
bones and rejuvenate the skin.
Internationally acclaimed Peninsula Hot Springs was co-founded
here in the late 1990s by brothers, Charles and Richard Davidson.
After sourcing bountiful 54oC waters from 637 metres below ground,
Peninsula Hot Springs eventually came to fruition. Now setting a
benchmark within the spa industry, Peninsula Hot Springs was a winner
at the 2017 World Luxury Spa Awards (for the third year in a row).
Changed into my swimwear and bathrobe, I walk along the
terraces to where thermal pools range between 37oC and 42oC. The
soundscape of bonging frogs, twittering birds and trickling water is a
therapy in itself. The social Bath House pools are where families and
groups of friends wallow. And at the Spa Dreaming Centre, couples
and solo travellers enjoy the more private pool spaces, steeped in
tranquillity.
I enter the dreamy setting of a pool within a cave. Looking back
through its opening, all I see is the outline of steam-shrouded waders.
In another shallow pool, I lay back as hydro-jets pummel my back
and legs. Alongside others, we bob up and down as if simmering in
a saucepan.
While the brave take on the cold plunge pool, I head into the
elaborate hammam, decorated in authentic tiles imported from Turkey.
At its centre is a stone island with marble basins, where bodies

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Opposite page, left to right: Hot Springs; Bath House Hilltop Pool;
Heronswood house and gardens; Healthy lunches at Peninsula
Hot Springs; Hot Springs terraced grounds
“The therapeutic benefits of these and stimulate circulation. As it works, my hair and scalp receive a
rehydrating mask. An indigenous flora smoke ritual then leads into a
10,000-year old waters are believed to rhythmic Aboriginal-inspired kodo massage, ending with a bioactive
detox the body, strengthen bones and facial. The pamper-filled session lasts for four blissful hours…
rejuvenate the skin..” HERONSWOOD HOUSE AND GARDENS

Today, I’m off to taste some organic produce in the town of Dromana.
exfoliate with mitts. The Diggers Garden Shop sells everything from potatoes and onions
Next, I test my balance on the Reflexology Walk. Journeying along to cottage plants and seeds. And neighbouring it is the stately
the winding trail ankle-deep in flowing thermal water, it’s a balancing granite, limestone and slate Heronswood House, dating 1871.
act. As I hobble along, the rounded pebbles activate pressure points Around it are ancient conifers, a historic mulberry tree, a duck pond
on my feet to clear energy blockages within my body. and a reflection pool.
After a massaging bamboo shower, I climb to the highest point of An avenue of ficus trees leads to a cacti and succulents garden,
the property. The most exquisite of them all is the hilltop pool. I step in. espaliered fruit trees, herb gardens and a parterre growing organic
Devoid of modern-day distractions, it’s where I reconnect with nature. heirloom vegetables. I also find beds filled with camomile, germander,
I simply observe and absorb the 360o sweeping countryside around white sage, lemon balm and Melissa.
me, and inhale deeply. Here is where healing happens. This botanical showcase fronts Heronswood Restaurant, where I
I rehydrate the wrinkles with a nutritious mango, orange and mint head in for lunch. I choose a table by the bay windows in a grand
smoothie at the Spa Dreaming Centre’s Café, and order the freshly sitting room lavishly adorned in floral wallpaper, and sporting a wood-
grilled salmon, which arrives surrounded by rocket leaves and edible surround fireplace.
borage flowers. As delectable aromas seep from the kitchen, I order the Grazing
Healing continues with a Botanical Journey therapy, applied with Platter of Heronswood egg, aged cheddar and salad with broccoli
infusions of ethically produced and certified organic skincare products, soup. It arrives garlanded with the edible ‘pansy cats whiskers’ flowers,
as well as native Australian essential oils. which also appear within the ice cube in my organic apple juice. At
I first get exfoliated with a salt scrub, before being wrapped in Heronswood House, it’s all about fork-to-fork dining, as produce is
mineral-packed volcanic ginger-infused mud to draw out impurities harvested from the garden just metres from my plate.

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Opposite page, left to right: Haven Red Hill; Heronswood house and
gardens; Boathouse beachboxes; Dolphins; Pansy cats whiskers at
Heronswood House; Reflexology walk at the springs; Botanic walk trail
THE WELLNESS MANOR

Come afternoon, I make my way to an intimate health spa in the
township of Mornington. The Wellness Manor is housed in an
ex vicarage built in the 1840s. It’s renowned for its holistic therapy
treatments such as mud and spirulina wraps, and cosmetic
procedures, to include chemical peels and dermal fillers.
After changing, I’m led into the private garden where two mineral
spa pools, mosaicked in Moroccan tiles, steam through the shards
of sunlight. Each contains magnesium and potassium chloride-
rich healing waters heated to 38oC and 39oC. And one features
reflexology jets and a waterfall to stimulate circulation and induce deep
relaxation.
Detoxing herbal teas arrive poolside. I try the Moroccan mint, and
later, the subtle rosella tea. The space is summery with a canopy of
overhead drapes gently billowing in the breeze. I dry off in the Infrared
Detox Sauna, believed to reduce blood pressure, relieve muscle pain
and encourage weight loss. A therapist then leads me to the Driftaway

Where to stay
Run by super-friendly owners, Haven Red Hill is a stylish and cosy
retreat perfect for couples. This pocket of tranquillity is nestled in a
valley between farmlands and organic orchards in the heart of Red
Hill. Bespoke suites feature Australian hardwood, fine linen, claw-foot
baths and heated floors: www.havenredhill.com.au
Boathouse Resort Studios and Suites is located opposite

Blairgowrie beach and marina. Suites and family studios feature
cathedral ceilings, balconies, kitchenettes, spa baths and private
gardens. Guests also enjoy a swimming pool, spa and barbeque
area: www.boathouseresort.com.au
Lakeside Villas at Crittenden Estate offer luxurious lakefront villas.

The over-water accommodation features a full kitchen, laundry, a
deep spa bath for two and organic Australian toiletries. Tuck up by
the wood fire in winter or slide open the doors to your private
balcony with barbeque in summer: www.lakesidevillas.com.au

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Opposite page, left to right: Haven Red Hill shed; Boathouse rooms;
Tea at The Wellness Manor; Tea tree lined entrance to Hot Springs
Travel information
Words: Marie Barbieri. Images: Marie Barbieri + F&T
in Time experience: The Wellness Manor’s signature treatment.

GETTING THERE Climbing into the Hammam-style steam pod, I firstly receive a
Both Emirates (www.emirates.com) and Qantas (www.qantas.com) fly salt exfoliation followed by a coating of therapeutic mud, before the
between Dubai and Melbourne. egg-shaped pod closes at shoulder level. Within it, colour therapy,
aromatherapy steam and a Vichy shower perform their magic. As the
VISAS pod steams away, I receive a hot oil scalp massage, and visualise my
Travellers to Australia require a Visitor Visa. Order online at: www.border. body ridding itself of congestive toxins. I’m rinsed off before refreshing
gov.au coconut milk is poured over my skin.
My day ends in the manor’s Relaxation Retreat, laying back on a
RESOURCES sheepskin rug-covered daybed and beneath silk curtains shimmering
www.peninsulahotsprings.com from the ceiling. From the delightful menu (itself, embedded within a
www.diggers.com.au/our-gardens/heronswood/restaurant silver frame), I choose the green cold-pressed botanical power juice.
www.thewellnessmanor.com Putting on the supplied headphones (pre-set with guided meditation
www.visitmorningtonpeninsula.org music), I prepare to drift away… again.

FOOD FOCUS
Bowls
OF WINTER
Goodness…
Comforting and robust soups that will warm the cockles of your heart
PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: MARGARET STEPIEN
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: YORINDE SLEEGERS

FOOD FOCUS

FOOD FOCUS
BLACK RICE AND BEAN

STEW WITH COCOA AND
POACHED EGG
FOOD FOCUS
PARMESAN, WHITE BEAN

AND KALE BROTH WITH
PARMESAN CRISPS

FOOD FOCUS
WARMING GREENS AND

PISTACHIO SOUP

FOOD FOCUS
SCANDINAVIAN
FISH SOUP

FOOD FOCUS
CHINESE CABBAGE,
CURRY AND COCONUT
SOUP WITH DATES
FOOD FOCUS
GINGER AND
CHICKEN BROTH

FOOD FOCUS
PUMPKIN SOUP WITH

SPICED CHICKPEAS

FOOD FOCUS
TOMATO AND
MEATBALL
MINESTRONE

THE Eden ISLE
‘You gather the idea that Mauritius was made first and then heaven was copied
after Mauritius’ Mark Twain. Need we say more!
CONSTANCE BELLE MARE PLAGE

et along a stunning 2km stretch of white sand beach on
S the north-east coast of Mauritius, the Belle Mare Plage is a

spacious hotel with an abundance of facilities. Boasting four
swimming pools, two championship golf courses, six bars, seven
restaurants and a spacious spa – there is little reason to leave this
picturesque resort, no matter how long your stay.
Within the beautifully landscaped grounds you will find 92
prestige rooms and 137 junior suites, as well as 20 villas, six
deluxe suites and one presidential villa, all of which offer plenty of
privacy as well as their own swimming pools. The décor is simple
yet sophisticated with light creamy colours adorning the walls, while
the private balconies and terraces provide breath-taking views of
the aquamarine sea or the dense green forests.
While sun worshippers can make use of the huge stretch of
pristine beach, those looking to be more adventurous can try their
hand at the vast range of complimentary watersports such as
windsurfing, kayaking and wakeboarding. The dive centre is also
hugely popular due to the abundance of sea life and offers beginner
courses, excursions and even night dives for the more advanced.

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: Rolls at Belle Mare Indigo beach restaurant;

Belle Mare Golf course; Lakaze restaurant; Villa interior at Bell Mare;
Belle Mare exterior; Belle Mare Pool
A great choice for a family there are also complimentary tennis the moment I am driven through the large gates that house the
courts, a 9-hole mini golf course and a spacious children’s club 60-hectare private peninsula I am transported to a destination
that encourages the youngest members of the family to stay active where relaxation is clearly the key objective.
thanks to its swimming pool, games room and playground. While many of the sister hotels of Constance place an emphasis
With so many activities on offer you are bound to have worked on families and provide a host of activities, the Prince Maurice
up a serious appetite and the hotel has plenty on offer to satisfy makes perfect use of its stunning location by simply encouraging
your every culinary desire. Belle Mare Plage has its very own oyster its guests to unwind and let the days slowly slip away. Roughly an
farm and produces some 50,000 oysters a year, while a chef’s hour’s drive from the airport, it is situated between a lake and a
garden has also recently been opened. Here you can sample local lagoon, and offers a sheltered and naturally leafy environment.
produce and even take part in a cooking class, while the seven Even the main reception offers a feeling of calm thanks to the
restaurants allow you to taste everything from Mediterranean to sensational views as the nearby infinity pool seems to melt into the
Mauritian flavours. lagoon beyond. Great care has clearly been taken by the hotels
For a more relaxed evening you can try the BBQ at La Kaze designers Jean Marc Eynaud and David Edwards to create a resort
beach and for those seeking a more intimate setting there is Blue that blends into the natural surroundings. The lush tropical greenery
Penny Café which is tucked under the cascade of a waterfall and and dark volcanic rock has been perfectly paired with the thatched
boasts an extensive wine cellar and cigar cabinet. roofs of the restaurants and villas.
Once inside my room it’s clear that attention to detail has
CONSTANCE PRINCE MAURICE continued with parquet floors, large wooden furniture and high
Found in the tranquil north-eastern corner of Mauritius, the Prince ceilings giving it an almost colonial feel. The bathroom features a
Maurice hotel promises to offer peace and tranquillity. And from large sunken bathtub, while opening the large sliding doors allows

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: Asian restaurant; Suites on stilts;

Barachois restaurant; Archipel restaurant; Villa on stilts bedroom
me to walk across a manicured garden straight to one of the

swimming pools.
This garden view style suite is extremely spacious, but if you are
seeking a more intimate setting then the junior suite on stilts is the
perfect option. The room may be a similar size but it overlooks the
ocean and feels even more peaceful.
Certainly, it feels as though comfort is a priority at this hotel, with
every member of staff making sure that you enjoy a memorable
experience. Within minutes of arriving in my room an employee was
on hand to answer any questions I may have had and was quick
to offer the service of pressing my clothes for the evening dinner.
This level of service was then repeated throughout the duration
of my stay, with staff remembering my name and even my drink
preferences.
As in fitting with the relaxed atmosphere of the hotel, the activities
that are on offer are similarly laid back. There is paddle boarding on
the wonderfully calm lagoon or if you fancy practicing your swing
then there are two spectacular golf course, Links and Legends,
both of which are free to use for all guests. Then there is the U Spa
which is set in tropical and lush surroundings. Here treatments use
only natural ingredients and I would recommend both the relax and
rejuvenate massages to anyone looking to leave the stress of their
jobs behind.
You will also find a well-stocked gym at the spa and there is a
tennis court should you feel the need for exercise during your stay.
But for the most part my own stay, and that of many of the guests,
was simply to relax and indulge in fine wine and delicious food.
Archipel offers fine dining with a Mauritian twist and provides
wonderful views out across the beach and infinity pool. Also

“Great care has clearly been taken
to create a resort that blends into
the natural surroundings.”
situated near the beach is Asian, a restaurant that delivers innovative
sushi, sashimi and dim sum. However, it is Le Barachois that truly
stands out. Walking to the restaurant I take a boardwalk through
the mangroves before arriving at a series of five floating decks that
offer perfect views of the lagoon and the mountains in the distance.
The perfect spot to watch the sunset, the food is of a very high
standard and clearly takes influence from the Indian Ocean.
Another culinary experience that simply cannot be missed is
dining in the Wine Cellar. I had my own personal sommelier who
was able to recommend numerous grape from the more than
25,000 bottles that make up the hotel’s collection – all of which
were perfectly paired with the selection of wonderfully light dishes
on offer. This service also takes place via a candlelit table on the
beach if requested.
The Wine Cellar is just one of the four bars that can be found
in the hotel, with the most striking being the Floating Bar that sits
just a short walk from Le Barachois. I found myself at the bar in the
early evening and I was able to watch the sunset while enjoying an
aperitif before dinner. It provides wonderful views and is extremely
popular with the couples staying at the hotel.
Of course, the hotel does also cater for children and has 12
Words Adrian Back
family suites and a kids’ club that is included in the price. These
also have their own section of beach and a heated swimming pool.
But the hotel excels in catering for those seeking a relaxing break.
From the stunning surroundings to the attentive staff, you’ll leave
feeling refreshed and thoroughly reenergised.
www.constancehotels.com

TASTE OF ABU DHABI
Star Chef: Sanjeev Kapoor
ith a vast culinary empire that makes him one of the world’s executive chef at that hotel chain. I told him I would do it in ten years,
W most successful and recognisable chefs, you would think

that Sanjeev Kapoor would be content. In fact he could
be forgiven for sitting back and reaping the rewards that come with
and of course he just laughed at me and asked how I would do it. I
told him it was simple; most people work eight hours so I will work 16.
That first three years I didn’t take a single day off.”
owning more than 70 restaurants, selling in excess of 10 million copies It is this story that helps you understand the ethos of Kapoor. And it
of his various books and owning his own 24/7 food television channel. comes as little shock when he states that he reached his goal ahead
But this is far from the case. Instead Kapoor has the same fierce of time. It took him just eight years to become executive chef of that
ambition that drove him to be named India’s best chef at the age of hotel chain in India.
just 28. It is a drive that few people possess and it has meant that That drive to succeed comes from Kapoor drive to make his own
even now his work ethic is of a man who still has nothing to lose and mark. The son of a successful banker, he excelled at school and was
everything to gain. expected to have a successful career as a businessman. Instead
“When I think back to the number of hours I was working 30 years he decided to do something that no one in his family had done and
ago, I think I am actually working even harder now,” suggests Kapoor, pursued a career inside the kitchen.
while in the UAE capital for the Taste of Abu Dhabi. “But I have always But even after being declared the best chef in India before he turned
been ambitious. Even on my first day in the kitchen, during my first 30, there was a need to do even more.
induction, I was clear and focused on where I wanted to go in my “My father used to feel that I hadn’t used my potential,” he recalls. “I
career. was a brilliant student so he felt I needed an MBA from a top institute.
“I remember meeting the executive chef and asking him how old he So on the way home from working as a chef I saw the Institute for
was. I was 20 at the time and he told me he was 40. He was curious Management Studies.
as to why I asked and I told him I wanted to know how long it would “I was 28, I had reached my peak, so what else was there for me to
take to reach his position. do? So I decided to enrol in the course and I was the oldest by some
“It had taken him 20 years and he told me that he was the youngest distance, but I’m glad I went as I always want to learn more.”

Opposite page, left to right: Cookery school; Signature Appetizers; Signature Curry; Dessert; Grilled Marinated Prawn; Chicken Curry; Chef
Sanjeev Kapoor.
Of course it was not Kapoor’s work as a successful executive chef and the lesson the young TV chef learned was to cook the food of
in Mumbai that gained him national recognition across India. Instead it the people.
was his foray into television in the early 1990’s when he was asked to Having studied French dining for five years and even briefly worked
host a cooking show on a popular television network. in a Chinese kitchen, Kapoor knew that he needed to showcase
While many chefs would be happy to gain further attention with the what Indian families cooked at home. And given the sheer size of the
one-off television appearance, Kapoor was eager to learn more about country and the population, he was never short of inspiration.
a new medium and immediately began questioning everyone involved “The only Indian food the world heard about was the restaurant style
in the show. food, but that wasn’t what Indians were eating at home,” says Kapoor.
“I was talking to the director and producers and asking all the right “So to me it made sense to teach more about home-style cooking
questions so they asked me to be a food consultant for the show,” and then meant travelling across the country.
says Kapoor. “I saw it as another opportunity to learn something I didn’t “The fact is that eating everything in India, well one lifetime would
“When I think back to the number of hours I was working 30 years

ago, I think I am actually working even harder now”
know but immediately I realised the show wasn’t being done right. simply not be enough. You will always keep learning. And fortunately I
“I said we had to know our audience and therefore go out and have always been creative so presenting new dishes came easily. For
speak to the people. I still distinctively remember top chefs saying me creativity is seeing some order in chaos.”
‘Sanjeev, what are you doing cooking home-style on TV? A top chef Kapoor has continued to champion this style of food and recently
should not be doing that. You are doing a disservice to chefs’. broke a world record by cooking 918 kilos of khichdi – a dish that
“I said sir, this is what I know. It took me years to convince people simply contains rice, lentils and vegetables. Seen as more of a comfort
that this was the right thing to do. Now people ask how I could see it food, restaurants across India are now once again placing it on their
even back then, but to me it was very simple.” menus due to the attention it has received.
One of the first dishes Kapoor made on national television was Such is the reach of Kapoor that Khichdi was trending on social
wwww – a simple creation that has gone on to become one of his media for days after the event, and even India’s Prime Minister
signature dishes. Its simplicity struck a chord with the Indian public Narendra Modi was on hand to taste the dish thanks to an invite from

This page, left to right: Chef Sanjeev Kapoor; Lamb Shank; Signature Dahl; Chef Richard Sandoval; The Wailers live; Tony Hadley.
the celebrated chef. While in Abu Dhabi, Kapoor was once again keen to champion
“I chose that dish because it unites India. I had run it past a few the simple food that he adores so much. Hands on during cooking
chefs who said I should choose something different. Well in my mind demonstrations, he clearly loves to educate when it comes to food.
iif everyone else says no, then I know I am right,” explains Kapoor. It is perhaps why he has also chosen to run a number of culinary
“I did exactly what I set out to do and when I was in the airport a few schools across India.
days later a whole bunch of immigration officers said congratulations “Despite being a great agricultural country we never made trips to
and thanked me for doing such a simple thing. the farm when we were training. Even now in India you ask what the
“And of course having the PM attend was incredible as he is the season for tomatoes is and they won’t know,” says Kapoor.
most powerful person in the region, not just in India. Originally he was “I remember taking my kids to Spain and them eating simply
“When I am travelling there is so much to absorb. It could be a simple

idea or something hugely complex, but learning is always at the core.”
not meant to attend and even the ministers were just hoping he would. tomatoes on bread with some garlic. And even at a young age they
So I said I’ll get him, and I did.” could taste the freshness of the tomatoes and so many chefs in India
Despite cooking humble food, Kapoor has been asked to cook for don’t take heed of this.
numerous leaders of India and is completely unfazed by the prospect. “We mask things with spices but if you start with fresh ingredients
“It was never a bid deal for me,” is the response when asked about and then use the spices not to make it, but to embellish it, it is so
preparing a vegetarian meal for Modi in Abu Dhabi back in 2015. much better.”
Instead, what truly excites Kapoor is travelling around the world and Even after more than 20 years cooking on television and in excess
sampling different ingredients. of 30 years in the kitchen, Kapoor is still completely obsessed with
“That is the most exciting part, there is always something new. I am food. And he has one final tip for anyone wanting to sample the real
a kid, I get excited very easily when it comes to food,” he says. “When home-style cooking that he has supported throughout his career.
I am travelling there is so much to absorb. It could be a simple idea or “Wherever you go, try to eat at someone’s house because the reality
something hugely complex, but learning is always at the core.” of food is far more exciting that the finesse.” Sound advice, indeed.

GOURMET TRAVELLER
The Food Festival

aste of Abu Dhabi returned last month for the fourth time and dishes from the minds of some of the countries top chefs.
T once again the festival of food delivered with a venerable

line-up of talented chefs, an array of the UAE’s most loved
restaurants and a memorable ensemble of musical talent.
A new addition to this year’s show, the Extraordinary Italian Taste
Pavilion featured demonstrations from five talented chefs, four of
which proudly lay claim to having a Michelin star.
As in previous years there was a mix of both celebrity and award- All five chefs gave live cooking demonstrations, with each
winning international chefs, as well as some of the best cooks from presenting a handful of dishes that helped their respective
the region, with more than a dozen local restaurants showcasing restaurants earn recognition.
some of their most popular dishes. Those attending were given an insight into the process of making
The likes of Sho Cho, Catch, Flooka, Leopold’s of London and an award-winning dish as chefs Tony Le Coco, Paolo Gramaglia,
Melius drew huge crowds throughout the weekend, with each William Zonfa, Nicola Fossaceca and Luca Facchini all took to the
offering a handful of dishes that reflected their style of cooking. stage. Each chef explained in great detail how to perfectly cook
Sho Cho in particular proved to be popular thanks to their take their signature dishes and there was even a chance for those in
on modern Japanese cuisine, with the rock shrimp tempura with attendance to sample their food.
creamy chili and garlic sauce perfectly showcasing the restaurant’s This proved to be a hugely popular addition, with Paolo
ability to elevate a relatively simple dish. Gramaglia a crowd favourite thanks to his almost limitless passion
Leopold’s also impressed with their bite-size truffle burgers that and enthusiasm. The head chef of President Restaurant in Pompeii,
packed a serious punch thanks to the combination of succulent he also provided somewhat of a history lesson as several of his
beef, Portobello mushrooms, melted brie, truffle oil, truffle dishes take influence from the historical Italian city.
mayonnaise and caramelised onion. As well as the master classes from the renowned chefs, the Italian
Similarly busy throughout the three days was the Springbok pavilion also proved popular thanks to the hands on experience
Butchery. Rather than a restaurant, the company was started eight provided for food lovers who wanted to learn how to make the
years ago and supplies fresh meat throughout the UAE. Thanks perfect pasta, pizza and even sorbet.
to a BBQ firing throughout the festival there was a near constant It was these hands on experiences that seemed to draw the
queue as the butchery served up 14-hour smoked BBQ beef biggest crowds throughout the three days as hundreds of guests
brisket, sirloin steak, lamb sosaties and boerewors sausage. attempted to showcase their own cooking skills in a number of
This year also presented the perfect opportunity for lovers of challenges.
Italian cuisine to sample some of the most original and flavourful Thanks to the Ain Dairy and Ikea Cooking Challenge, those

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This page, left to right: Chef Shelina Permallo; Jenny Morris and
Reza Mohammad live cooking class; Breaded shrimps; The taste
of the World.
competition; featuring a stellar line-up of talented chefs, who were

showcasing their competition worthy dishes.
Over the course of the weekend the tension built as the winner
of the competition was announced. The victorious chef was Kotaro
Noda who leads the kitchen at Bistro64 in Rome. He fought off stiff
competition from 12 international chefs with his innovative take on
potato spaghetti that was presented with butter and anchovies.
One of the dozen finalists also used the competition to showcase
his own XO sauce; a staple of those living in Hong Kong. Chef Eric
Raty moved from his native Finland to work at Café Grey Deluxe in
the Chinese territory and worked on a special non-pork version for
the show in Abu Dhabi. The spicy seafood sauce was a favourite
among those attending and his small supply soon ran out.
Of course, as well as the world class chefs and array of
restaurants, Taste of Abu Dhabi is also billed as a music festival and
attending were able to pick up some tips from celebrity chefs such there were plenty of acts to keep the crowds entertained.
as Sanjeev Kapoor, Reza Mohammad, Jenny Morris and Shelina Headlining the show was former Spandau Ballet frontman Tony
Permalloo. Hadley who certainly appealed to those who fondly remember the
Master Chef winner Shelina provided people with the chance 1980’s. By the time Hadley took to the stage on Thursday night,
to learn more about Mauritian cuisine, while Reza and Jenny were there was a large crowd in attendance and the vast majority certainly
on hand to judge the winner of an omelette making challenge that seemed to enjoy his renditions of the classics ‘Gold’ and ‘True’.
turned extremely competitive. We heard more than one attendee Throughout the three days there were also performances from
blaming their failings on a lack of ingredients. local music acts such as DJ Krish, 4 The Music, The Maplejacks
But perhaps the most popular demonstrations were from and Down Home, however, these certainly played second fiddle to
celebrated Indian chef Sanjeev Kapoor whose cooking classes the fabulous array of food that was on offer.
were full on each of the three days. The veteran cook was extremely The majority of those in attendance were certainly there for the
hands on as he sampled dishes from almost all of those attending food and to expand their own cooking knowledge. The cooking
his demonstrations, and often handed out tips when the dish demonstrations allowed you to get first-hand experience and were
wasn’t quite up to standard. His home-style cooking was a definite immensely popular with the thronging crowds; and it would be
hit with the Abu Dhabi crowd. great to see even more demos like this next year.
Another mainstay of the weekend was the Etihad Taste the World tasteabudhabi.com

A magical fine-dining experience,
relaxed ambiance, adaptive
environment and majestic interiors
that offers top-class international
menu that well surpasses your dining
interest and expectations.
FOR MORE INFORMATION & RESERVATIONS PLEASE CONTACT

(+973) 1771 7745 / (+973) 3997 7540 www.camelotrestaurant.net
Fcamelotrestaurant G @camelot_bahrain I camelot_bahrain

FOOD FOCUS
FESTIVE
Tour
Take a festive eating tour around the world without leaving your kitchen
thanks to these traditional drinks, sweet treats and side dishes.
PHOTOGRAPHY & PROP STYLING: SUKAINA RAJABALI

WORDS, RECIPES & FOOD STYLING: SARAH PRICE
FOOD FOCUS
PANETTONE (ITALY) It combines light, flavourful, airy yet rich dough studded with dried
Panettone is quite simply the bread of Italian legends. Its origins fruit and slivers of candied peel all encased in a gorgeous, gleaming
are spiritedly contested – as the best recipes tend to be – and all brioche-like outer layer. If you want to achieve this ambrosial end
date back to the Middle Ages. Perhaps the most romantic of these result you’ll need to dedicate yourself to the pursuit of panettone
tales purports that a penniless baker by the name of Tonio (pane di perfection and that means first nurturing a sourdough starter and
Tonio meaning Tonio’s bread) created the recipe in lieu of a more then navigating the lengthy fermentation and mixing times. For those
traditional dowry when his youngest daughter fell in love with a rich keen to embark on a Christmas holiday project this might be just
nobleman. the thing, but if you fancy a less intensive dabble in the world of
Tonio may well have been on to something: made the right way panettone-making, the recipe that follows features all the classic
panettone is the sort of bake that you simply can’t put a price on. flavours associated with the festive bake in mini muffin form.

FOOD FOCUS
CHRISTMAS CHOCOLATADA (PERU) a sophisticated, ever-so-slightly bitter note and the evaporated milk
Cast your mind back to the hot chocolate of your childhood: rich, bring a textural richness and silky smooth mouthfeel that will leave you
creamy, gently soothing and downright delicious. Now try to imagine questioning if you’ll ever use regular milk to make hot chocolate again.
a drink that delivers just a little bit more on the flavour front. Before Although Christmas falls in the middle of the hot Peruvian summer,
you dismiss that idea as being beyond the realms of possibility, the drink is still consumed with gusto in December and is very
let us introduce you (by way of a sprinkling of Christmas magic) to much associated with this time of year. What’s more, people hold
chocolatada. ‘chocolatadas’, where friends and family gather to celebrate the
This Peruvian drink is hot chocolate elevated to a new, altogether season, exchange gifts and enjoy the drink accompanied by slices
more grown-up level. Water infused with cinnamon and cloves forms of panettone. It’s also very common for charities, church groups,
the base of this beverage and gives it a clarity of flavour that sets it schools and other organisations to host charity chocolatadas to
apart from other similar drinks. Good quality dark chocolate provides provide a treat for underprivileged children.

FOOD FOCUS
ROTKOHL - SWEET AND SOUR RED CABBAGE (GERMANY)

Cabbage might be a rather unassuming looking vegetable, yet in one form or another it
finds its way onto festive tables in countries around the globe. In Lithuania sauerkraut makes
up an important part of the meat-free 12-dish kucios meal enjoyed on Christmas Eve and
much like Brussels sprouts and bread sauce, crispy roast potatoes and cranberries, many
in the UK would consider the Christmas table bereft without a bowl of slow-cooked, gently
spiced red cabbage.
It is rotkohl, Germany’s version of this dish, that might well be the most delicious though.
Although it is served as an accompaniment throughout the year, during the festive period
rotkohl really comes into its own, partly because its sweet-sour tang provides a lovely
counterbalance to the rich roast meats eaten at this time of year. Red grape vinegar adds
an essential tartness to this recipe, while apples offer a fruity note and the dried cranberries
give a further festive nod.
As well as matching well with roast duck, grouse and game, rotkohl is often eaten with
grilled sausages and potato salad and would make a fantastic addition to a buffet-style
meal made up of Christmas leftovers. Served at room temperature (rather than hot from
the hob) this might just be the condiment that makes this year’s Christmas cheeseboard
the most memorable yet.

FOOD FOCUS
"Panettone dates back to the Middle Ages, where according to legend, a

penniless baker by the name of Tonio (pane di Tonio) created the recipe as
a dowry for his youngest daughter who fell in love with a rich nobleman."

FOOD FOCUS
COCOA-DUSTED CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES own. While there’s no need to reveal this to the recipients,
(USA) truffle-making is surprisingly effortless; once you’ve prepared
While elaborately prepared, exquisitely presented desserts the ganache (essentially a melted butter, chocolate and cream
certainly have their place, sometimes just a mere mouthful of concoction) you can either keep things simple or add extra
something sweet is the perfect way to end a meal. At this time flavours (think coffee, orange zest or peppermint), before chilling
of year when thoughts of diets tend to go out the window and in the fridge. Then it’s just a case of forming the chilled mixture
seasonal eating takes over, this is more true than ever: a dinner into balls and rolling them in your chosen coating. A dusting of
without pudding seems parsimonious but equally the thought of cocoa is simple and classic, but crushed pistachios, desiccated
another custard-drenched finale is a bit much. coconut, icing sugar and finely chopped hazelnuts will all look
Rich, delicate dark chocolate truffles might just be the answer. and taste fantastic too. Store these little beauties in an airtight
They offer a shot of sophisticated sweetness without being container and they’ll keep in the fridge for two weeks or for a
cloying and they feel special too - particularly if you make your couple of months in the freezer.

FOOD FOCUS
SMOKED SALMON PÂTÉ ON BROWN and a delicate flavour that manages to combine the smoke, cure and
BREAD TOASTS (UK) fish itself without ever being overpowering. With that in mind, it’s well
There’s something about smoked salmon and Christmas that just feels worth splashing out and treating yourself to premium-quality smoked
quintessentially British. The fish adds a decadent sense of luxury to all salmon – it is Christmas after all. Do so and you’ll want to get the most
manner of dishes, whether served at breakfast with scrambled eggs of out the fish, which is where our pâté recipe comes into its own.
and toast (quite the most indulgent way to start the day), paired with Considering the amount it makes the quantity of smoked salmon
nutty brown bread and a smear of the finest salted butter or draped required is relatively small, yet thanks to the thin strands tumbled
artfully over blinis and enjoyed with pre-dinner drinks. through the pâté at the end and the delicate garnish it still delivers on
The very best smoked salmon has a bright, clean taste, a firm texture flavour, texture and visual appeal.

FOOD FOCUS
MELOMAKARONA - CHRISTMAS HONEY reasons can still enjoy them) and are most often flavoured with the
COOKIES (GREECE) festive trinity that is cinnamon, cloves and orange.
Should you be lucky enough to find yourself in Greece around The lovely thing about these golden nuggets is that as well as
Christmastime whether you’re visiting the homes of friends and being extremely tasty, they’re really rather easy to prepare. The
relatives, perusing the wares at a bakery or enjoying a leisurely base is made from an olive oil, flour and semolina dough which is
meal in a favourite taverna, you can almost certainly look forward to kneaded briefly before being formed into small egg-shaped pieces
encountering melomakarona. and baked. Once cooked the hot-from-the-oven biscuits take it in
These little honey cookies (also known as finikia) are one of turns to be dunked in a honey-spiced syrup. Not only does this
the most widely observed edible holiday traditions in the country. ensure that they remain lovely and moist, the warm cookies drink
Although recipes vary, traditionally melomakarona are made without up the syrupy flavour beautifully. A liberal dusting of finely chopped
butter or eggs (so that those abstaining from dairy for religious walnuts provides the finishing touch.

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This page, left to right: The Black Lake; Kotor Church; Port
Montenegro; Rijeka Crnojevica; Kotor City Night
MONTE-WHERE?
Rugged mountains, medieval villages
and a dramatic Adriatic coastline;
Montenegro is the pearl of the Balkans
y friend E thinks I am mad. I have been to Montenegro.
M Often. My friend E does not do Eastern Europe. Especially

not that bit of Eastern Europe. Which used to be part of
what was once Yugoslavia. And which, during the 1990’s was at the
mercy of a terrible civil war.
My friend E was a young Reuter’s rookie back then. She took
photographs which she relayed back to her London office. But
the images are still burned firmly in her memory. ‘Uh uh’, she says,
resolutely shaking her head, ‘not for me’.
The war carved the Balkans up into small slices strewn along the
Dalmatian coast: the Serbs and the Croats and the Bosnians are all
separate from today’s Montenegrins who occupy the newest and
tiniest country in Europe, all 700,000 of them, which is anxiously
striving for EU membership.
We arrived in Kotor (via Dubrovnik’s Cilipi Airport, over the border
in Croatia) one warm September afternoon in a cab that raced
along the skinny-ribbon road that winds its tortuous and sometimes
terrifying way around the Boka Kotorska (The Bay of Kotor), hugging
the precipitous overhang of mountains slipping into the sea.. The
Boka (literally, ‘inlet’) is a fjord that runs inland from the Adriatic Coast
for 28km, and the walled city of Kotor, listed as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, stands at its furthest recess. The bay is shadowed by
the hulking massif of Mount Lovcen which rises with staggering and
absolutely perpendicular splendour out of the sea, as if soaring to
gasp for air. During the summer you’re advised to be on the south
side of Kotor where the afternoons are cooler, during the winter, to
the north because you can enjoy later hours of sunlight on cold days.
The British who live here describe the south side as ‘The Dark Side’.
Italian writer, Nicolo Carnimeo, would agree: of his experience of a
winter in the Boka he wrote, ‘the sea freezes and in the morning the
first rays of sun melt the ice, turning the water into a thin layer of very
light fog. Boats then seem to sail on the clouds, as in a painting …’
But we, thankfully, did not need to worry about freezing seas or
cold fogs. September in Montenegro is hot. Hot enough still for

“The Boka is a fjord that runs inland from the Adriatic Coast for
28km, to the walled city of Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.”
bikinis and bare feet, for late night al fresco dining, for swimming, overcame us; we took local buses. The Blueline runs reliably and
Montenegrin style, directly off the roadside pier and into water. cheaply (a $18 cab fare translates as just $1.25 on the bus) every
We settled ourselves for the week into a small apartment on the half hour between Herceg Novi near the border with Croatia and
ground floor of a 400-year-old villa. Much of the architecture here Tivat at the end of the Boka before the muddled, meandering fjord
is Venetian influenced (in the 14th Century Kotor was part of the straightens itself out along the Adriatic Coast all the way to Albania
Venetian Republic) with its metre-thick honey coloured stone walls, and across which, on a clear day, you can see Italy. And we ate and
dusty rose roof tiles and shuttered windows and much of what is – drank locally. And copiously.
or has – fallen into disrepair is being bought up by eager property Not surprisingly Montenegro boasts fabulous sea food. We dined
speculators and renovators, including the Russians who are in at the Galion restaurant, a Perspex cube on the water’s edge under
evidence everywhere splashing cash and drinking champagne on the now defunct and objectionably 1970’s styled Hotel Fjord, and
million dollar yachts moored in the Kotor Marina. In nearby Tivat, they paid $9 for a bowl of delicious mussels. The next day we sought
have invested in a five-star luxury development, the Hotel Splendid out the local fish mongers at Dobrota and bought them for $1.25
(where you can rent the penthouse at $4.700 a night). The Splendido a Kilo and prepared them for supper ourselves with the local white
was a 300 ton brigantine captained by Ivo Visin who, in 1852, set out grape ($4.10 a bottle), garlic and the fattest beef tomatoes you
to circumnavigate the globe with ‘ten guns and a crew of eleven’. It have ever seen. We ate squid stuff with the local meat, prsut, and
took him seven years and he returned home to his Montengrin village cheese; we ate sea bass; we ate the biggest shrimps I have ever
of Prcanj to tumultuous applause and adulation. The boat’s name has eaten. We just ate.
inspired the naming of many hotels in the country, including the one And we explored. Often on foot (to make up for all the eating).
in Tivat which locals refer to – with just a hint of derision on account of We spent a day in Perast, the ‘Jewel in the Adriatic Crown’. Not only
the opulent black and gold lobby – as the Russian Embassy. does this picturesque little village host a jumble of fabulous sea front
And for a week we lived Montenegrin style. We wandered along houses and small palaces, its profile is punctuated by half a dozen
the water ways, leaping in for a dip when the urge took us or the heat church spires, and directly opposite, as if floating on the waters that

“Perast is a picturesque village;
host to fabulous sea-front houses
and small palaces, reminiscent of
its Venetian ancestry.”
mirror this architectural tableau reminiscent of its Venetian ancestry,
are two tiny islands, one of which is manmade.
In 1452, two fishermen – so history relates – rowed into the bay
with a boatful of rocks. Their mission was to create a chapel for the
blessing of sailors. But first they had to build an island to put it on.
A lofty plan: it took nearly 200 years for the community to complete
Our Lady of the Rock; the building of the island began with the hulls
of scuttled ships and then an awful lot of stones, boatload after
boatload of them, rowed laboriously out into the bay. Anybody who
can afford to buy in Perast will enjoy Montenegro’s trade mark view,
featured on the cover of dozens of guide books. We couldn’t afford
to buy a house there, but we could afford lunch (delicious tuna salad
doused in olive oil) and a visit to the little maritime museum which
boasts dozens of portraits of gloomy Serbs and stunning views from
upstairs windows across the water. And we could afford a boat
ride to the island. Once, only a few years ago, you’d have had to
persuade a local fisherman to take you across and it would have
cost you mere cents. Now it’ll cost you $6 and you can take a ride
on any one of dozens of boats that chug to and fro between the
mainland and Our Lady of the Rock which lies alongside a second
tiny island – a natural reef this time rather than a man-made one –
upon which stands the cypress shaded Benedictine Monastery of St
George and is the burial place of generations of past sea captains.
Our Lady of the Rock isn’t just a tourist destination. It remains –
quite firmly – a sacred place. The chapel that stands there, with its
distinctive octagonal bell tower was dedicated to the intercession
of the Virgin Mary in 1630 and its interior pays prodigious and quite
beautiful homage to the work of a local and self taught artist, Tripo
Kokolja (1661 – 1713), 68 of whose paintings cover the walls and
ceiling. We arrived on the island with two travelling Germans and
for about seven minutes could enjoy the exquisite blue and white
peace of the place. Until a vast cruise boat of French appeared and
decanted onto the island, rushing about with cameras, posing against
centuries old statues and generally making a raucous nuisance of
themselves. I sat in a scant scrap of shade and observed with some
satisfaction as a G-string clad woman was firmly evicted by the
resident priest. She minced crossly back to her boat and sulked on
board until her travelling companions had tired of their picture taking.
And then they all left and we were able to savour the quiet, watery
sanctuary until our own sea taxi returned.
We explored the walled city of Kotor and sat in a café in the square
beneath the Cathedral of St Tryphon and ate some more. We drank
cold local beer or white wine and indulged in a spot of that perfect

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Opposite page, left to right: Church Montenegro; Perast; Montenegro

landscape; Perast Montenegro Kotor Bay Herceg Novi City; Old Town
café-culture past-time: people watching. We saw Roma gypsies

plying their lace; children who lived in the extraordinary city practicing
their cheer leading techniques, teenagers being teenagers, tripping
along cobbled streets polished to dangerous sheen in impossibly
high heels, lounging like lizards in bars, playing on their cell phones,
smoking their cigarettes (Montenegro is still disarmingly smoker-
friendly, tossing two defiant fingers at the legislation that keeps most
smokers in Europe out in the cold, literally) and hiding behind huge
sunglasses. Kotor-cool. It is cool. It’s vibrant and noisy, music throbs
from every bar as if in competition with one another, it’s colourful and
chaotic, cats caterwaul and whilst no vehicles are allowed inside the
city you can hear the roar of motorbikes outside the city walls. It is
young and old and the decaying scent of history is perfumed with the
promise of youth and newness.
For the more energetic, there’s always the option to walk the wall.
Kotor is surrounded by a 4km city wall (twice the length of the one
around more famous Dubrovnik) that staggers up the mountain
behind the city, interspersed with the odd chapel, and then plunges
back down again. Guide books suggest making the hike before
it gets too hot and going armed with sufficient drinking water. We
witnessed a number of earnest tourists doing just that on our way
into the city for a mid-morning espresso. We preferred to admire
it from a small distance. It’s almost invisible by day, its stone walls
camouflaged against the scrub and rock on which it sits. But come
nightfall, it is lit up and hangs on the mountain like a brilliant string
Words: Anthea Rowan. Images: Food & Travel, iStock

of bright beads. My husband and I spent a little time every evening
admiring it and considering what its outline brought to mind: a love
heart lying on its side, said I (a romantic to the last). A lion’s head,
said my husband. Or a shark with its mouth wide open. ‘Look, you
can see its teeth’.
And then we went shopping and I was seduced into buying a
lambs-wool coat by a boutique owner who told me it was the work
of one of the country’s youngest and funkiest and up-and-coming
(like Montenegro itself) designers. Utterly seduced (and despite the
fact I spend most of my year living in shorts and flip flops), I made my
purchase and belatedly was struck by a moment of panic. ‘What if
she was lying?’ I asked husband worriedly, ‘what if it was made in a
sweat shop in China?’.
But the label said: Made in Serbia. Which was close enough.My
friend E is going to be dead jealous when she sees it.
www.visit-montenegro.com

SEVEN
seas of wry
Food and Travel columnist Kevin Pilley
takes us for Bahamian culinary stroll
hey know how to eat in the Bahamas. The sea bass is flown
T in especially from Chile, the sole from Holland and the crab
from Alaska. The lobsters are local. But the deep-water
prawns are Spanish.
If you want to spoil yourself and get one up on your friends you
can turn to page seventy of the famous grape list, trail your finger
down and order yourself a bottle of the house 1727 Rudesheimer
Apostlewein from the Bremen Ratskaler in the Rheingau region of
Germany.
Reasonably priced at $200,000, it is the world’s oldest drinkable
grape. So ideal if you fancy a dessert wine that has some cachet
and will go down well with your insecure social peers.
The Graycliff Hotel in Nassau has the third largest grape collection
in the world. A quarter of a million bottles, conservatively worth
$11m, are kept in the old rock-faced dungeon. It’s an experience
eating in a pirate’s residence.
On the site of buccaneer John Graysmith’s 1740 fortress mansion
and once Polly Leach’s “Lunches, Teas & Dinners” - Nassau’s school chic and elegance. It embodies colonial lunch and dinner-
first inn- it was the home of Lord and Lady Dudley, the 3rd Earl of time values. It preserves certain mores.
Staffordshire who hosted the Duke and Duchess of Windsor – the You are not a customer. You are a patron. The dress code (jackets
former Edward VIII and Mrs Simpson who thought the Bahamas and shoes are obligatory. No shorts) is strictly enforced. You have
rather perfect. They called it home. It became a luxury hotel in 1973. to fit in. You have to look like you are able to sit and eat at the same
There are only twenty rooms but plenty of herringbone parquet and table as the likes of Sir Winston Churchill, Mr Martin Luther King Jr,
credenza. Next door is the Governor General’s House. Aristotle Onassis Esq. and Her Royal Highness, Princess Caroline
“Graycliff Restaurant” on New Providence Island, not far from the of Monaco.
National Art Gallery and Western Esplanade beach is the first and Things are more relaxed in the hotel’s “Giotto Pizzeria” and
so far, only fine dining establishment in the whole of the Caribbean. “Humidor Churrascaria Brazilian Steakhouse” with its “unlimited
Although curiously the hotel is only four star. Mainly because it only portions of delectably seasoned delectable meats”.
has twenty rooms. But its main restaurant is the epitome of old You don’t have to dress up for a platter of skewered meat or wear

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, left-to-right: Graycliff hotel pool; Cooking class with Elijah
Bowe; Fine dining at the Graycliff restuarant; Food tour cooking class
“Graycliff Restaurant” on New

Providence Island, is the first and so
far, only fine dining establishment
in the whole of the Caribbean.”
more conch. The colourful shacks on Arawak Cay on Nassau’s
West Bay Street offer authentic down-home callaloo soup, leaf
vegetable soups made from taro, amaranth or water spinach. A
form of morning glory. You can’t avoid the okra (ladies’ fingers) or
collard greens (loose leaf brassicas).
On guided food tours, you learn about ceviches, that turtle soup
a jacket and tie and your best dress and earrings in front of a 12” is no longer served and iguana only on special occasions. You hear
pizza. No matter how hand-tossed it is and how thin it’s crust. about clawless spiny lobsters, stone crabs, baked bonefish, grits,
A rotisserie is not fine dining. It’s different from a pricey posh fish served “escabeche” (marinated), cassava bread, “Old Sour”
restaurant. You don’t have to put on any airs and grace and be sauce, pepper pot stew, Sapodilla melon tree pudding, soursop ice
too respectful of anything that has been barbecued. Even in the cream and guava duff pudding.
Bahamas south American savoury vegetables don’t expect to be Bahamians traditional fare includes coleslaw, steamed chicken,
feted. You don’t have to pose as an epicure and pretend to be a fried plantains, pigeon peas in “peas ’n rice”. In the Bahamas (from
connoisseur or aficionado when faced with several lumps of grilled Spanish for “shallow waters”) if there’s no rice or meat it’s not a
lamb. Charred pork doesn’t need to be paired an 1865 Chateau meal.
Lafitte. Your taste buds don’t have to live up to a Margherita. Bahamians love their coconut water, goat pepper and hot mango
An all –you-can-eat fixed price menu buffet is what it is. Seared sauces, guava jam , iced “switcha” lemonade and fever grass bush
pineapple doesn’t care about your impression of it. The waiters tea made from ginger, brown sugar, lemon grass and sour orange
want to you to be gauchos from the Pampa region. Not food critics rind. And they love their rum cakes.
from the New York Times. A tourist trap maybe but still charming and educating, The Graycliff
The term “Churrascaria” comes from south Brazil and goes back is several Caribbean culinary experiences in one. You can tour its
to the early nineteenth century and refers to a restaurant specializing Cognaceque with 900 bottles including a museum piece 1893 AE
in “rodizio”, the roadside roasting spits. You don’t even need to Dor. You can have a cigar rolled at your table or you can bring
wear your best Etsy voucher bought wide-brimmed, black felt Latin one you rolled yourself. There are classes given by torcedores. You
American cowboy hat. learn about wrapping and sorting and lighting and coughing. And
They’ll let you in without riding chaps. that the best cigar should give off the aroma of manure.
Curiously, the hotel’s chocolate factory insists you wear a plastic The hotel is one giant historic humidor. It is where Bill Clinton got
hair net when learning to pimp and personalize your chocolate box his Gurkha cigars. The Graycliff a fascinating place. Executive Chef,
selection and being taught how to introduce subtle vanilla notes to Elijah Bowe, gives masterclasses in making Grouper Dijonnaise and
your cocoa butter and hand-paint your Key Lime pie truffles. Snapper en papillotte.
Although ingredients are largely imported, Bahamian food is more Book your table, your history lesson and the coconut soufflé at
interesting than you may think. It’s not just conch and conch and the same time.

Luke Nguyen’s
Luke Nguyen, award-winning chef,
Vietnam
F
ood and Travel caught up with award-winning chef Luke
Nguyen in Vietnam as he opened his latest restaurant ‘Vietnam
House’, an iconic downtown Saigon restaurant. Known for his
restaurateur, author of seven best-
authentic Vietnamese cuisine created from family recipes that draw
selling cookbooks, TV presenter upon the Chinese, French and Thai influences that reflect the heritage
of the unique local culture; food for Nguyen is not just a family affair
with his own global travel and food that brings people together, “Food is a really important expression
of Vietnamese culture. It tells a story – a story of the land and of the
shows, host of MasterChef Vietnam, history of the Vietnamese people.” he says with a genuine passion.
inductee to the Food Hall of Fame, Although brought up in New South Wales, Australia, Nguyen has
a close connection to Asia. “My mother is Vietnamese / Chinese; I
the list of achievements is endless… was born in Thailand and raised in a restaurant.” he adds.

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Opposite page, left to right: Luke Ngyen; Hanoi crisp

parcels; Vietnam House by interior; Vietnam House
Wok-Tossed Pepper Beef Tenderloin with Smoked
Potato Mash.
“Food is a really important

expression of Vietnamese culture.
It tells a story of the land and of the
history of the Vietnamese people”
“Becoming a chef wasn’t a given, I come from a strict Vietnamese
family and my parents wanted me to study hard and become a
doctor or a lawyer, but I knew from a very early age, that I wanted to
be a chef or a restaurateur; I started working in the family restaurant
when I was 10, which I enjoyed immensely. I grew to enjoy the
hospitality business and restaurants in particular; opening my
first restaurant Red Lanterns in Sydney at the tender age of 23.”
explained Nguyen.
“Originally I stayed true to traditional Vietnamese recipes – but
now my own cooking has evolved – although I love traditional food
– I wanted to raise Vietnamese to the level of Japanese or French
cuisine– to change the perception of Vietnamese food as the
cheap and cheerful option.” he reflects. “But now I have a unique
approach; lifting Vietnamese cuisine to a fine dining level, by adding
other elements – tapping into emotions and elevating each dish.”
Nguyen never uses MSG or artificial flavourings. “I just want to
use the very best natural ingredients creating fresh flavours.”
We asked Nguyen why Vietnamese food has become so popular

GOURMET TRAVELLER
“Nguyen has taken his unique

culinary ethos back to its spiritual
home with the opening of Vietnam
House in downtown Saigon.”
across the globe? “In my opinion, it’s because it offers such a
delicate balance of flavours, yet it can also be gutsy and brave
when it wants to. It’s a stunning combination that always surprises
and delights; and that’s what keeps people coming back for more.”
he replied.
It probably shouldn’t come as much of a surprise that this most
personable and talented man should be at the helm of a chain of
successful restaurants and a much-deserved global reputation for
fine food. We asked for an insight into what makes his restaurants
stand-out and where the inspiration for many of his dishes come
from. “In addition to family recipes, whenever I am in Vietnam I try all
the street food, these recipes have been passed on from generation
to generation. The street vendors have been cooking these dishes
for 30-40 years, so they have them perfected.” he replied “I learn
these traditional dishes and recreate them adding my own accent
and raising them to restaurant quality. My food is all about opening
the door to the Vietnamese way of life.”
For Nguyen, the hardest and probably most important part of
opening a new restaurant is finding the right team. “Finding chefs
who are passionate about Vietnamese food is key, and if I can’t find
them I won’t open a restaurant.” he says firmly.
Nguyen has taken his unique culinary ethos back to its spiritual
home with the opening of Vietnam House, a downtown Saigon
restaurant, in a building whose beautiful 1910 façade stays true its
French colonial roots, located in the city’s famed Dong Khoi Street.
The original restaurant opened in the early 1900s and was known
as Cafe L’Imperial, before the first Vietnam House opened over 25
years ago and quickly set the standard for Vietnamese fine-dining.
This latest iteration raises the bar further with its ornate Art Deco
Vietnamese décor and Nguyen’s distinct culinary style. “With Vietnam
House, I’m bringing together the strands of my heritage, my journey
of discovery in Vietnam and my career in the culinary industry to
make this place something very special,” offered Nguyen. “Perhaps
it is daring to bring my own take on classic Vietnamese dishes back
to Vietnam, cooked with an Ozzie accent!”.” he concluded.
Nguyen has taken the best of Vietnam and combined it with finest

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Opposite page, left to right: Salt & Pepper Prawns; Luke Ngyen;
Private Dining; Vietnamese Coffee Flan with Tropical Fruits;
Vietnam House interior.
produce from around the world; fish from Japan, Wagyu beef from
Australia, pigeons from France – ingredients that will ensure his new
modern take on the classic dishes are simply delicious.
The exceptional menu crafted through Nguyen’s extensive
exploration of Vietnamese cuisine, includes favourite dishes such
as: banh xeo, a crispy Vietnamese-style savoury pancake filled with
local produce and fresh tofu, an elevated classical version of Wagyu
Beef Pho and Wagyu Beef La Lot, succulent tender beef served
with betel leaves, herbs and angel hair noodles. The Antipodean
influence is showcased in vibrant fusion dishes such as slow-
cooked ribs, in coconut juice, served with a delicious carrot purée
and choy sum; and of course, mouth-watering seafood, from char-
grilled lobster in a Phu Quoc pepper sauce, and soft rice paper
rolls with seared sesame salmon. It’s no wonder this new outpost
is so busy.
However, Vietnam House is not the only successful venture that
Nguyen has in Saigon; he also operates GRAIN his cooking school.
“When we were interviewing kids for MasterChef Junior in Vietnam
I discovered that virtually none of them could cook beyond pot

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Luke Ngyen; Vietnam House - Char-Grilled Five Spices Free-Range Chicken; Vietnam house Interior.
noodles or boiled eggs.” he noted “When I was young we all knew time you will be cooking.” says Nguyen.
how to cook – but today in Vietnam, with its growing Middle Class, With such range of commitments, we wondered how he managed
it has become a fast food culture, and the art of cooking has been to balance his successful TV career? “Making my TV series every
lost. So I decided to launch GRAIN and teach kids how to cook, series takes about 4 months of my year, plus I spend about a
from market to plate; To ingrain cooking back into the Vietnamese month a half researching the region, finding local restaurants and
culture.” discovering new dishes, which motivates me to learn about age-
GRAIN is a Vietnamese culinary experience. In addition to old techniques, visit old “Ma & Pa” restaurants – then I take all that
learning the fundamentals of food preparation and presentation, knowledge and experience back with me and put it on the menu!”
you will experience a glimpse of Vietnamese history and hands-on offered Nguyen “I grow as a person after every series, which gives
approach that allows you to select and choose your own produce, me so much as a person and as chef.” he concluded.
herbs, spices, and sauces, from the in-house mini-market “What “I love travelling – I travel to eat – I go to great destinations to
I want to achieve with GRAIN is that when you leave our cooking discover new foods, and new cuisines.”
studio, you are already planning and looking forward to the next vietnamhousesaigon.com www.grainbyluke.com

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THE INTERVIEW
Opposite, clockwise: Maya Sacher torte; Sonya Janahi; Maya chocolate fondue. This page, left-to-right: Cinnamon rolls; Exterior view of Maya
La Chocolaterie; Maya chocolate selection.
The golden ticket

Sonya Janahi, Deputy Chairperson, Maya La Chocolaterie
or the true connoisseur of chocolate, luxury confectioner
F
for barely 5% of the sales, today, 10 years on sales of dark chocolate
Maya La Chocolaterie has firmly established itself as one have surpassed 45%.
of the region’s leaders in the art of fine chocolate, skilfully After a year of product research and development, Sonya launched
crafted in to a delicious assortment of rich yet subtle flavours that the flagship outlet of ‘Maya La Chocolaterie’ at Seef Mall in Bahrain
have become the hallmark of this fine emporium. Bahrain-based in 2007; and within a year, the success of the first outlet led to the
Maya embodies the elegance and passion of the region; making opening of its first franchise and the start of Maya’s regional expansion,
the finest hand-crafted artisan chocolates, with its own inimitable that today boasts outlets in Bahrain, Saudi Arabia and Kuwait.
distinctive signature style; a unique brand that combines Belgian Maya imports 3 tonnes of the finest raw Belgian chocolate every
classics and distinctive opulent ingredients from the Middle East. month, to Maya’s state-of-the-art facility in the Kingdom of Bahrain,
Maya seamlessly blends two cultures with its outstanding innovative producing over 90 different flavours and types of artisan chocolates,
designs and premium quality. that are exported across the region. Sonya has lovingly created a
Francesca Jackson talked to Maya Chocolatier-in-Chief and designer-selection of hand-crafted chocolates, with flavours that range
founder Sonya Janahi, to discover what drives, not only her love for from exotic combinations such as saffron, Pistachio & Rosewater and
chocolate but here evident passion for business. “Prior to starting Orange and Coriander to Earl Grey and Pink Peppercorn or more
Maya La Chocolaterie, I spent years in the banking industry and traditional classics such as Fruit & Nut and Dark Ganache to Cookie
wanted to start a concept which is both fun and unique. Like many, Crumble and Coffee.
“When Maya first opened, dark chocolate accounted for barely 5% of

the sales, today, 10 years on sales of dark chocolate have surpassed 45%.”
my passion for chocolate, and specifically dark chocolate drove me to The business definitely runs in the family, with help from daughters
visit and admire some of the most renowned chocolatiers in Europe, Rose 23 and Rona 18, taking time from their studies to help with the
leaving me in chocolate heaven.” she stated. “After spending over recipes. “My daughters and I work together devising different flavours.
two decades in the corporate world, I wanted to create something of Whenever they discover a new food or something where they live,
my own, something that would make a difference!” she added. they immediately send me pictures and call! And of course, I am very
Sonya identified a gap in the local Bahrain market for specialist food proud of them.”
and chose chocolate. “It seemed a good fit as I am a true chocolate Not content with the hard work and dedication required to
aficionado, and I had vision to create a chocolate brand that would be successfully manage Maya, Sonya is actively involved in the rest of
on par in quality and taste with some of the finest chocolatiers in the its parent company, ‘The Living Concepts’ subsidiaries which include
world.” she observed. Not content with just her passion for chocolate investment and financial, administration, HR and IT consultancies;
Sonya studied at Ecole Chocolat becoming a Certified Professional architecture and interior design; and construction, where she also
Chocolatier. “I wanted to understand chocolate as I was determined holds senior advisory positions as a member of the Board.
to fill the gap in the local market for ‘healthier’ chocolate. We do not It is perhaps, no wonder, that with Sonya at the helm and her
add preservatives or additives and we promote dark chocolate, which unbridled dedication and infectious enthusiasm, Maya is set to enter
is one of the biggest sources of antioxidants and has many nutritious the next chapter of its well-deserved success story, with expansion
benefits.” concluded Sonya. Clearly the Maya chocolate education plans set for home and across the region for 2018.
program is working; when they first started dark chocolate accounted www.maya-la-chocolaterie.com

City chic Aloft Al Ain Abu Dhabi
ven those of us who have called the UAE home for several to its colourful canopy over the main entrance. Once I step inside
E years could be forgiven for never having ventured to the

Garden City of Al Ain. Some 120 kilometres from Dubai and
more than 150km from the centre of Abu Dhabi, it has traditionally
the lobby is open plan and spacious, while the staff are extremely
friendly as they provide me with a run down of all the facilities inside
the hotel.
been a popular weekend destination for Emirati nationals, but has Following a quick check in I head to my suite which despite being
rarely been seen as a tourist destination. just 51 m² has been expertly designed and the room feels much
Yet in stark contrast to the bigger cities it boasts a wealth of bigger. The main area features a king size bed, two large chairs, a
historic buildings, picturesque palm groves and some of the most wide screen television and a sizeable desk which could come in
stunning views available in the UAE courtesy of the emirate’s highest useful for those on a business trip. There you will also find an iron
peak: Jebel Hafeet. With a great deal of investment also going into and ironing board neatly tucked away, a minibar, safety deposit box
the city in recent years, the number of visitors is expected to rapidly and plenty of closet space.
“As you would expect from a hotel owned by Starwood Hotels, Aloft’s design
is both striking and stylish.”
increase and hoping to take advantage of this fact is the stylish Aloft Perhaps most impressive however is the bathroom which
Al Ain. features a huge walk in shower and a marble counter top full of
Located in the up-and-coming 500,000 square metre Hazza Bin toiletries. Here you will also find a rather comfortable bathrobe and
Zayed Stadium development, the boutique hotel is just four storeys slippers, and upon request you can receive a dental and shaving
high but features 175 loft-like guest rooms and suites. There is also kit – both of which were delivered almost immediately. There are
a rooftop pool, four restaurants and lounges as well as a state of also plenty of towels which were changed everyday during my stay.
the art fitness centre. Having arrived during the early afternoon I headed to the hotel’s
As you would expect from a hotel owned by Starwood Hotels main restaurant the Olive Tree. Promising a mix of Middle Eastern,
and Resorts, Aloft’s design is both striking and stylish. In fact, it Western, Arabic or Asian cuisine, only half of the restaurant was
instantly reminds me of the W Hotel Al Habtoor City in Dubai thanks open to customers as the Al Ain football team were also using the

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Opposite page, left to right: Aloft Al Ain hotel entrance; Aloft Al

Ain dining area; Aloft Al Ain rooftop pool; Aloft Al Ain ultra savvy
bedroom suite
hotel’s facilities. Nevertheless there was still plenty of space and the
staff were very apologetic.
The menu is small but varied and does cover a wide range of
styles. I started with a Crab Claw Fattoush that was rather sizeable
and certainly did not skimp on the crab. The only downside was the
saj bread that covered the dish had become soft thanks to the large
amount of lemon dressing.
For the main I chose The Real Butter Chicken which was served
with aromatic rice and a poppadum. Once again the portion was
large with enough for two servings, but I was easily able to clear the
plate as the sauce was rich and flavourful, with just the right balance
of garlic, ginger and chilli, as well as plenty of tender chicken.
As I stayed on a Friday I was also able to sample a wide range
of dishes from the rooftop lounge as from 5pm to 9pm guests can
enjoy unlimited food and beverages for just $55. This is a very laid
back affair with most making full use of the swimming pool whilst
also sampling the food on offer.
As you would expect from a BBQ there is no shortage of burgers,
chicken, kebabs and shrimp, as well as various pastas and salads.
There is also a large pastry section with a plethora of bite-sized
desserts that included classic apple pie, praline puffs, Eton mess
and cheese cakes. All of which were extremely sweet and packed
full of sugar, but certainly seemed popular with the younger diners.
Once 9pm hit there was an after party and the resident DJ
certainly made sure of a more upbeat atmosphere. The music
was cranked up and numerous adult floatables were released into

“Once 9pm hit there was an after-party and the resident DJ certainly made sure
of a more upbeat atmosphere, but it’s not a concern for guests as the rooftop
location means the sound does not carry to the rooms.”
the pool which stayed open until 11pm. More people began to off some calories and made use of the fitness centre on the fourth
arrive and there was a lively atmosphere, but it would certainly not floor. Well stocked with a wide variety of brand new equipment,
concern any of the hotel guests as the rooftop location meant the there was no trainer on hand so you have to be well-versed in
sound would not carry to any of the rooms. the machines that were available. But there were towels readily
This event also only takes place once a week and the rest of available and plenty of bottles of water on hand so clearly the gym
the time the pool and lounge is a far more chilled out location. It is is well maintained by staff.
certainly popular with families and despite being on just the fourth Before my stay came to an end I also had the chance to test out
floor does provide great views of the nearby mountains in Oman. breakfast at the Olive Tree. Presented as a buffet there is a huge
Less frequented by families and more for those seeking after selection of pastries, fresh fruit and cereals as well as hot dishes
dinner entertainment is the W XYZ lounge on the ground floor, including eggs in several variants, veal bacon, hash browns and
which is open until 2am every night of the week. Here you will find everything you would expect from a well-stocked buffet. Guests
a huge selection of cocktails as well as a bar menu that is great for can also help themselves to tea, coffee and juices, while the waiting
those looking to share a few small dishes. The music is more for staff will take orders if you require something be made fresh.
ambience and it is definitely a place where you will find a mixture of I made the mistake of taking eggs benedict from the cooked
locals and those visiting the hotel. section and the dish was stone cold having clearly been sat out
Aloft also features an area which they refer to as Re:fuel, here you for a while. But I was able to request a fresh one and the chefs
can purchase an array of food and drink that are great for those on were only to happy to prepare a new one for me. So should you
the go. The grab and go style shop offers an array of sandwiches, like eggs in the morning then I would definitely recommend having
Words: Adrian Back
salads and snacks. It even has a make your own cappuccino yours freshly prepared.
machine for those who need a caffeine hit at anytime of the day. Certainly throughout my stay the staff were only to happy to help
Also located on the ground floor it is a great way to stock up if you and the service was of a very high standard. This matched the
are heading out to the nearby Al Ain Zoo or preparing for a trip to overall feel of the hotel as the design and aesthetics were equally
the top of Jebel Hafeet. excellent and the whole experience one I look forward to repeating.
Having thoroughly overindulged during my stay I was keen to burn www.aloftalain.com

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Opposite page, left to right: Aloft Al Ain rooftop pool;

Prawn pizza; Mixed salad; Sub and chips; Aloft Al Ain
rooftop lounge area

GOURMET TRAVELLER
DORSET
UNSPOILT BEAUTY
The UK’s south coast has so much to offer and Dorset, only a couple of hour
from London, is a beautiful and often overlooked treasure.
herever I find myself in the world, my heart always brings
W me back to Dorset eventually. With quaint villages, quirky

traditions and open green fields, my childhood home is
a picturesque county in the UK’s south west and best summed up
by the fact there are more kilometres of footpaths and bridleways
than roads.
It’s been contested whether Dorset strictly qualifies as part of the
West Country – a corner of England best known for its farmland,
thick countryside accents and love of fermented apple drink – and
it is often overlooked by tourists, who drive through on their way to
neighbouring counties.
Dorset, however, has all the traits of a proud West Country county
– including its own award-winning Town Crier – and has plenty to
offer. Plus, only a couple of hours drive down the motorway from
London, it’s an easy weekend getaway for those travelling from the
capital.
One of Dorset’s biggest pulls is its coastline. I’ve always proudly It might sound like a musical festival, but Old Harry Rocks is
pointed out that this county defies the British stereotype in as far actually a series of bright white chalky rock stacks. Looking out at
as it boasts beautiful fine golden sandy beaches. Whether they them from the top of the blustery Handfast Point, there are breath-
have the weather for many sunny beach days is another matter. taking views across the water to Bournemouth and as far as the Isle
However, you’ll regular see resilient Brits walking their dogs along of Wight, as well as the beachside town Swanage – a main stop on
Studland Bay beach all year round. the route taken by the heritage Swanage Railway.
A quick chain ferry ride across from Sandbanks – one of the For adventurous days out it’s hard to beat Poole Harbour. The
world’s priciest residential areas and a favourite with footballers – second largest natural harbour in the world – after Sydney which,
the protected beach stretches for four miles, eventually leading to granted, beats it by a long way – its waters hold five islands. The
Old Harry Rocks. headline act is Brownsea Island which is accessible by boat and

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: The Cobb Lyme Regis; Thomas Hardy’s Cottage; Swanage Heritage Railway; Dorset Coastline; Worbarrow Bay.
“The Cobb is where Meryl Streep

stood with Jeremy Irons in the
poignant scene from The French
Lieutenant’s Woman.”
heralded for its wildlife, including the rare red squirrel and its resident
peacocks. It was also the spot of the very first Scout Camp by Lord
Baden-Powell in 1907.
Growing up, weekends were spent exploring the harbour and
Dorset’s coveted Jurassic Coast. There are no dinosaurs sadly,
but the Jurassic Coast is an UNESCO natural World Heritage Site,
covering 185 million years of earth’s history over 95 miles of epic
coastline. It also makes for some fantastic opportunities to dig up
your very own fossils. rocks and seagulls squawk hungrily overhead.
Geology fan or not, Durdle Door is a must for anyone who finds It’s hard to believe that this is all part of a sprawling family estate,
themselves in Dorset. Thousands of years of steady coastal erosion the upkeep of which has served as employment for many locals
has created two beautiful curving pebbly beaches and one iconic for generations.
archway, Durdle Door. Make the walk down the steep hodgepodge The estate’s jewel in the crown is Lulworth Castle. An impressive
steps to the beach to get the full effect of the mighty stone arch – 17th century building perched on a hill, it was originally built as a
just don’t think about the walk back up. hunting lodge and spot to entertain aristocracy. A fierce fire in 1929
Follow the chalky coastal path up and away from here to Lulworth left only the shell intact, but visitors can still explore the restored
Cove. A picture-perfect sweeping bay, here you’ll find little boats interior and take in the panoramic view from the roof of the tower.
bobbing on the water while tourists tuck into fish and chips on the There are several legends and the grounds are allegedly haunted

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: Lulworth Castle in Dorset; Durdle door; Shaftesbury Dorset Golden Hill; Old Harry rocks
“There are several legends and the

grounds are haunted by ghosts of the
castle’s maidservants”
by ghosts of the castle’s maidservants. They clearly haven’t scared Folk Festival held in the thriving market town Wimborne Minster was
visitors away though and the popular grounds have become the highlight of my year. The usually quiet streets were suddenly
synonymous with the music festival Camp Bestival, which it hosts packed with busy stalls selling vibrant clothing, pungent incense
every year. and meaty pastries. The crowds would only part to make way for
Throughout the summer Dorset is littered with festivals of all teams of folk dancers who, with their bells, colourful costumes and
shapes and sizes with Camp Bestival and Lamar Tree Festival, clacking sticks, would put on performances.
held in a Victorian Garden on the border of Dorset and Wiltshire, While it’s changed and expanded over the years, the Wimborne
dominating the music genre. Folk Festival is still incredibly popular, welcoming tens of thousands
For a real taste of Dorset culture, however, there are the array of of visitors over the three days, with some genuinely travelling from
folk festivals that take place across the county. There are more folk overseas.
festivals in Dorset than you can shake a stick at which, ironically, is Another quintessential corner of Dorset can be found in the
exactly what they often do – if you’ve ever seen Morris Dancing in market town of Shaftesbury – more specifically, on Gold Hill. The
action, you’ll understand. street is lined with a row of picturesque thatched-roof cottages on a
Brought up in a small countryside village, as a child the Wimborne thigh-burning steep hill and is known for starring in a famous advert
Where to stay
Clavell Tower Loose Reins
Looking out over Kimmeridge Bay and the dramatic Jurassic Coast, this 19th- With rolling green fields and plenty of bridleways, it’s no surprise that Dorset has so
century tower has seen its fair share of drama. Originally built as an observatory many keen horse riders. Nestled in rural east Dorset, near Shillingstone, guests at
in 1830, it was left abandoned around World War One and was almost lost to this luxury glamping spot stay in their own cozy wooden cabins, the style of which
the sea below after decades of severe cliff erosion. ooze US pioneer spirit.
Fortunately, the Grade II listed landmark was saved and meticulously moved, Surrounded by beautiful Dorset countryside, it’s all about getting in touch with
brick by brick, away to safety. Now, renovated inside, it stands as a beautifully nature and relaxing after a long day in the saddle mastering Western Riding on your
quirky and surprisingly modern four-storey holiday home for two. noble steed. The guided horseback trails take in stunning views over the Wessex
landmarktrust.org.uk Ridgeway and sweeping fields.
loosereins.co.uk

for Hovis bread, back in 1973. It sounds obscure, but it’s a beautiful Cottage, the home where the author was born in 1840 and wrote
old-timey view and people still gather at the top for photos. his early work.
Back in the 21st century, more recently, Dorset’s coastal beauty While Jane Austen wasn’t a local – she was born in nearby
was put centre stage in the TV show Broadchurch. It was filmed on Hampshire – she was known to have holidayed in the coastal town
location around the Jurassic Coast, but it was the towering sandy of Lyme Regis. She even based a dramatic scene in her book
cliffs of West Bay that were the real backdrop to the award-winning Persuasion on the Cobb, a historic stone pier surrounding the
crime drama. In reality West Bay is a sleepy seaside town, known harbour where, for decades, people have strolled along the top wall
for beach days and fresh seafood. to take in the views. The Cobb is also where Meryl Streep stood
Dorset is probably better known for its literary connections, with Jeremy Irons in the poignant scene in The French Lieutenant’s
namely Thomas Hardy. The author of Far From the Madding Crowd Woman.
and Tess Of The d’Urbervilles was a local, born near the county Dorset is a buzzing and quintessentially British county, packed
town of Dorchester, and his novels were deeply inspired by his with enough epic coastline views, historic houses and quirky town
surrounding countryside landscape. Fans can even visit Hardy’s culture to make overlooking it a big mistake. Then again, I’m bias.

Snow, snow,
thick, thick snow
Age-old Scandinavian winter traditions
Scandinavia is a winter wonderland for every visitor - for those who are used
to snow and those who have only ever seen it on TV. Whether visiting Iceland,
Sweden, Norway, Denmark, or Finland, there is a myriad of winter activities
across the region just waiting to be discovered.
ach country in Scandinavia prioritises different aspects around the world alongside its Danish cousin Hygge. Nobody in
E of winter tourism, for visitors willing to brave the cold and

unpredictable weather. There are countless festivals and
Christmas-related activities throughout December, the awe-
Sweden can give a specific definition of what fika means, other than
the literal translation “to have coffee”, or where exactly the tradition
first emerged, but it usually involves relaxing with friends, family, or
inspiring phenomenon that is the northern lights between November colleagues with a steaming fresh cup of coffee (black, of course!)
and March, eternal darkness throughout mid-winter, and various and a bright-coloured Swedish princess cake or pastry in one of
other uniquely Scandinavian activities to experience. And with more the many cafes and coffee shops that line the picturesque streets
connections between major Gulf airports and Scandinavian capitals of Stockholm’s Gamla Stan area.
than ever before, there has never been a better time to visit the Winter in Sweden is a particularly welcome time for a fika break.
home of Santa Claus and his reindeers. It means that you get to go indoors, usually inside a heated café, to
escape the chilly winter snow and winds outside. It also gives you
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN – FIKA TIME an opportunity to sample some of the region’s finest fresh cakes
Stockholm, the historic Swedish capital, may not be the first place and pastries, the recipes for which have been passed down from
to come to mind when people think about a Scandinavian winter generation to generation.
escape. The north of Sweden, in the Swedish Lapland region, is Picture it. A steaming cup of black coffee with a plate overflowing
more suited to those looking to experience dog sledding, age-old with Mazarins (a pastry case filled with ground almonds and
traditions of the Sami reindeer herders, and the northern lights, but sprinklings of icing sugar), Punchrulle (brightly coloured marzipan
other countries focus on those types of activities too. Stockholm’s dipped in dark chocolate and filled with cookie crumbs and butter,
winter traditions are truly unique. and Kanelbulle (the most traditional Swedish teatime treat – a
The Swedish phenomenon known as Fika is fast becoming known cinnamon bun tied in an intricate knot shape and baked until lightly

WORLD TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: Freshly groomed ski-slope in Rovaniemi,

Finland; Gamla Stan, the old town of Stockholm; Brödbutiken Café;
Stockholm at Christmas time.
brown). But taking fika is more than just eating tasty foods and panoramic views of the waterfront and flickering city lights, a
drinking refreshing coffee, it is an event to be savoured. An escape Nespresso machine and complementary macaroons, and designer
from the world. toiletries is the perfect base for a winter visit to Stockholm. Room
At the impressive domineering Radisson Strand hotel, located 100 was a favourite with Greta Garbo herself.
in the heart of Stockholm and alongside the boat-filled quay, the When the winter festivities really get started, usually in the last
management are hoping to take a slice (pardon the pun!) of the week of November, the Stockholm city pass comes into its own.
new-found international interest in Swedish cuisine. The newly You can travel on the metro across the city (with stations decorated
opened ‘The Strand – A Swedish Brasserie’ is recreating the dining in works of art), inter-island ferries, and visit the many royal museums
experience that famous Swedish actress Greta Garbo enjoyed at and historic attractions at no extra cost. When the Christmas lights
the hotel in 1921. The brasserie serves a delectable selection of are lit overhead along most major streets, and concerts take
Swedish classic-meets-modern dishes, including reindeer fillet with place outside Kulturhuset, everyone can get a feel for winter in the
celeriac puree and chanterelle mushrooms, meatballs with potato Swedish capital.
puree and pickled cucumbers and lingonberries, and aquavit and A major feature of the winter season in Stockholm, taking place
beet cured salmon. alongside skiing on frozen lakes and taking brisk walks in the large
The hotel itself is a large and historic building that stands at the and clean royal parks, is the St Lucia Day celebrations. On 13
intersection between the city’s largest shopping streets, the Gamla December, both girls and boys, who have been chosen by their local
Stan historic area, and a short walk from the Central railway station communities after tough competition, host concerts dressed in pure
and the 20-minute high-speed Arlanda Express train to Stockholm’s white gowns with lit candles to bring light into the dark winter days.
largest airport. The hotel has been hosting guests from across the They sing songs that most Swedes have grown up learning, but that
Middle East for years and its large business class rooms, boasting doesn’t mean that outsiders need to miss out on this most cultural

WORLD TRAVELLER
of Swedish winter celebrations. Swedes are welcoming to outsiders!

Sweden, and Stockholm in particular, could almost have been
built especially for the winter season. The medieval architecture in
the older parts of the city cast shadows from the flickering street
lights, glowing in the dark, and the locals get the chance to embrace
their Viking heritage, formed by hardy men and women living with
and amongst nature. Scandinavian winter doesn’t necessarily mean
freezing in the wild north of the region. You can experience culture
and heritage in the heart of Sweden’s capital, now with direct flights
to Gulf hubs.
ROVANIEMI, FINLAND – HOME OF SANTA

CLAUS
Finland is the (un)disputed home of Santa Claus – who also goes
by the name of Father Christmas, St. Nick, and jolly old St. Nick,
depending on who you ask. You don’t need to be a Christian though
to visit the Finnish town of Rovaniemi and enjoy the festivities that
surround the year-round home of Christmas. Throughout the year
the town is decorated in glistening tinsel, flickering fairy lights, and
Christmas fir trees are everywhere, but it is in the month leading up
to Christmas day that Rovaniemi really comes into its own.
Visitors can visit the man privileged enough to be appointed Santa
Claus for the year in his grotto, surrounded by elves, real-life reindeers,
and children’s’ concerts. In the Christmas village there is a post office
where visitors can buy gifts and stamps to send home to boast to
friends and family about meeting Santa. There are also restaurants
serving traditional Finnish recipes, including reindeer, fresh fish, and
vegetables that only grow in the cold north of the planet.
Legend suggests that Santa Claus actually lives in Korvatunturi
(‘Ear Fell’), deep in the Lappish wilderness, but his exact location
is only known by his closest elves; he decided to establish an
office in Rovaniemi so that visitors could meet him every day of
the year. Santa’s village is a light in the dark Finnish wilderness,
with a wooden stage hosting Christmas-themed musical concerts,
decorations and wooden chalets coated in snow where guests can
meet Santa and his helpers.
Husky safaris are also popular in Rovaniemi. Dress up warm and
hold on tight as six husky dogs roped together pull you on your
sleigh through the snowy white forests, passing wolves and eagles.
You can steer the sleigh yourself or let the expert guides do it for you
whilst you relax and enjoy the awe-inspiring natural surroundings.
To truly understand a Scandinavian winter, visitors need to
experience the region at night, when temperatures drop to well

Clockwise: Northern Lights in Rovaniemi; Reykjavik, Iceland; Hallgrímskirkja church in Reykjavik; Snowland Igloo restaurant under the
Northern Lights in Rovaniemi; Crossing the Arctic Circle at Santa Claus village in Rovaniemi; Reindeer.
“The Arctic Snow hotel is made entirely from ice and snow. Ornate beds are
FDUYHGIURPKXJHEORFNVRIWUDQVOXFHQWLFHWKHĲRRULVFDUSHWHGZLWKDıQH
OD\HURISRZGHU\ZKLWHVQRZŘ
below freezing. The Arctic Snowhotel is a hotel made entirely an empty shoe on their window before bed, and when they are
from ice and snow. Ornate beds are carved from huge blocks of asleep one of the Yule Lads visits, leaving sweets or small gifts
translucent ice, the floor is carpeted with a fine layer of powdery for good children, or rotting potatoes and coal, depending on how
white snow, and the en-suite bathrooms are heated, offering an well behaved the children have been in the preceding day. Each
escape if the frozen bedroom gets too much. There is no need to of the 13 Lads are believed to have specific behaviours, causing
freeze overnight though, because the beds are covered with fluffy random acts of mischief across the country: Stekkjarstaur harasses
Words: Joe Worthington Photos by: Henrik Trygg, Jeppe Wikström
sleeping bags. sheep, Giljagaur hides in drains waiting for opportunities to steal milk
In the morning, guests are treated to a steaming cup of lingonberry from cow sheds, Stúfur steals cooking pans to eat left over food,
tea and can choose from the three on-site restaurants for food. Hurðaskellir slams doors at night. Will the Yule Lads appear when
At Kota restaurant, traditional Lappish delicacies are available, you visit?
including salmon cooked slowly over an open wood fire, creamy As is the norm across Scandinavia, food features heavily in
mushroom soup, Lappish reindeer steak, or oven baked apple Icelandic winter traditions, some of the dishes may not sound
delight with syrup and custard. Finnish Lapland is home to many very appetising though. On Þorrablót (Thor’s Day), which falls on
unique and wonderful foods that cannot be found anywhere else, 22 January, Icelanders cook and share Viking foods to remember
so Rovaniemi is the perfect place to sample them as the aurora the Nordic god of thunder, Thor. Families come together to share
lights flash overhead. local delicacies including fermented shark, scorched sheep heads,
whey-pickled ram’s testicles, and jellied lamb meat. The flavours
ICELAND – UNUSUAL FESTIVE TRADITIONS are a very acquired taste, but to truly understand Icelandic winter
Icelandic winter traditions are as bizarre as they are interesting. traditions, it is worth sampling them on a visit to this chilly North
Icelanders are strong believers in mythical people and creatures Atlantic island.
that are said to inhabit the rural wilderness in the centre of the frozen Scandinavian winter traditions are complex and legendary, and
island. are often difficult for outsiders to understand. Nonetheless though,
One tradition that outsiders struggle to grasp is the local belief in the region is the perfect place to discover new and unfamiliar events
elves and goblins, and in the lead-up to Christmas, a group of elves and beliefs when temperatures drop and the nights grow longer. A
known as the Yule Lads wreak havoc across the country. Starting unique insight into a part of the world that is growing in popularity
13 days before Christmas (25 December), Icelandic children leave with Gulf visitors looking for somewhere new to explore.

alosraonline.com
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YOUR DOOR
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Tried &
ARTISAN CHEESE
BAHRAIN
f you crave fine artisanal cheese then look no further than the pears and apples with a deep, soothing earthiness on your palate.
I Signature collection at Alosra, Bahrain. Discover a curated

collection of some of the world’s finest hand-made cheeses
from England and France to Switzerland and Spain; made with
As you cross the Channel delight in a couple of England’s
favourite cheeses. Stinking Bishop owes its origin to the Cistercian
order of monks who once farmed the pastures of Hunts Court
care on local dairy farms and aged to perfection. Farm from where it was launched by Charles Martell & Son in
Sample the delights of Comté from the Fromageries Marcel 1994. As with similar cheeses Stinking Bishop is matured in humid
Petite; where the Petite family has been lovingly using traditional cave-like conditions; the cheese is hand washed in pear perry
methods to make this well-known cheese for five generations. The which gives it a sticky orange pungent exterior. The name Stinking
lush mountain pastures where the cattle graze, produce Comté’s Bishop is derived from the name of the pear found on the farm
unique rich, nutty flavour with perhaps just note of caramel. used to produce the perry in which it is washed. This rich,
If you are looking for something with a little bite to its flavour, then unctuous cheese is initially mild and sweet to the palate, delivering
Manchego is for you. This local cheese hails from the home of Don a mix of deep complex and pungent notes as the flavours unfold.
Quixote, on the dry plateau of La Mancha, found just south of Moving up the country to Nottinghamshire, home to the Colston
Madrid. Made from thick, aromatic, unpasteurised ewe’s milk from Bassett dairy and its famous Colston Bassett Stilton. The cheese
the Vega Sotuelamos dairy, using age-old techniques and aged for is produced today using the same methods employed since
12 months, Manchego develops a deep and complex favour, which 1913; the entire process is managed by hand, from ladling the
starts slightly sweet before finishing a little sharp and hot. curd, to turning, tasting and aging the cheese, to produce an
If you are lover of traditional French cheese then don’t miss out intensely rich and creamy cheese. Colston Bassett Stilton has a
on Camembert de Normandie from the Saffrey Family; this dairy flavour which is slightly sweet with mineral notes giving a deep,
has been making artisan Camembert for over a century and is the lingering and complex finish. The Blue delivers a consistent tang
only dairy in existence that belonged to Marie Harel, who along throughout the cheese and provides a perfect contrast of acidity,
with Abbot Charles-Jean Bonvoust, invented Camembert cheese. which perfectly balances the creamy nature of this cheese.
The cheese has a soft, supple texture and bloomy white rind, To discover more exciting artisan cheeses, check out Alosra in
tinged with rust; the complex flavours deliver hints of poached Bahrain or visit alosraonline.com
COOKERY COURSES RESTAURANTS DELIS APPS HOTELS

Where to
Eat
Tried&Tasted
EAT
With the festive season upon us, we

celebrate a good old British Christmas,
enjoy a Vietnamese new year in Dubai,
enjoy a seasonal afternoon tea in
Scotland and enjoy exquisite French
cuisine Gordon Ramsey style
in Bordeaux
Frenchie Covent Garden,

London
f someone asks you to supper at Frenchie, the response should
I be a resounding ‘bah, oui!’ Whether you’re a Francophile or

not, rest assured, the London outpost of Gregory Marchand’s
triumphant trio of Parisian restaurants has got serious culinary clout.
Marchand was nicknamed ‘Frenchie’ by his old boss Jamie Oliver
and it stuck. Whether calling his restaurant such was an ironic V
sign to the slack-tongued lad from Essex, we wouldn’t like to say.
The Henrietta Street site is a home of casual yet refined dining with
modern flair, where ingredients sing from a song book of innovative
dishes with worldly flavour combinations and elegant plating. Sea
The Balmoral Festive Afternoon Tea
bream tartare, yuzu, pear and chestnut gets the tasting menu off Edinburgh
to a great start, followed by honey roasted duck, aubergine and
miso, hazelnuts and plums. They all seem to build to a pudding of Afternoon tea at the Balmoral Hotel is one of Edinburgh’s fine
chocolate ganache, coconut and lime, which was our dish of the institutions; the Palm Court, with its old-world elegance, comfy
night. Clean, industrial interiors with a deco edge and slinky bar chairs, dark wooden floor, are perfectly balanced by the light airy
counter offset them perfectly. Ask for a seat at the back. Tables contemporary décor of the room, with its glass dome and Venetian
on the banquettes are too close together. BG. +44 20 7836 4422 chandelier. The Festive Afternoon Tea has been given a timely twist
frenchiecoventgarden.com this December. After enjoying a heavenly four-course experience,
you will be presented with a plate of themed gifts to take home as a
memento; Scotland’s first home-grown Silver Needle tea in a Balmoral
tea tin as a nod to Hamilton & Inches’ silversmith skills. Fondly referred
to as ‘Grandad’s Eyebrows,’ due to the hairs on the back of the leaf
which form a silvery appearance, Silver Needle tea is sweet in taste
with a velvety chocolate depth. your second gift is a thyme-flavoured
chocolate enclosed in a Hamilton & Inches box, and the third, an ice
cream cone with a tangerine sorbet covered in dark Swiss chocolate;
and finally, a beautiful keepsake bookmark by Patek Philippe.
The Balmoral’s Festive Afternoon Tea costs $59pp; for more
information call the Palm Court on +44 131 556 2414 or visit www.
roccofortehotels.com

Eat
Tried & Tasted
G lobal Gourmet
Le Pressoir d’Argent BORDEAUX
When in Bordeaux you’re spoilt for Ramsay- choices. Situated on the ground
floor of the luxurious InterContinental, right across from the city’s stunning offer but it does not include Ramsay’s
opera house, you’ll find Le Bordeaux Gordon Ramsay – a casual bistro signature native lobster from the press – a huge silver machine that the
serving high-end lunches and dinners. But upstairs on the first floor, where waiters use to compact the cooked lobster shell, extracting a heavenly jus
the master chef runs two-Michelin-starred Le Pressoir d’Argent, is where and serving it with the meat. To start, order the Bazas beef tartar with oyster
real magic happens. High ceilings and windows with heavy curtains, gold cream and caviar. The icing on this culinary cake is the caramelised pistachio
ornaments, white flowers and even whiter tablecloths stand in contrast crème brûlée with a steaming cup of espresso or – even better – chilled
to velveteen chairs in bright purple and orange. There is a tasting menu on bubbly. SW. + 33 055 730 4304, bordeaux.intercontinental.com
The Great British Christmas Dubai

If you are looking for that traditional British festive experience than look no further
than the Great British Restaurant (GBR) located DUKES Dubai, Palm Jumeirah.
A happy Vietnamese New Year Dubai With views of the Dubai Marina skyline, dine at GBR for a dining experience that
See in 2018 with a refined New Year celebration at award-winning Vietnamese is simply British, bringing the absolute best of British to your table; GBR offers
restaurant Hoi An in the celebrated Shangri-La hotel on Sheikh Zayed Road. a celebration of classic British cuisine, from traditional hearty roasts with all the
Savour a sophisticated seven-course set menu that will take you on a culinary trimmings to divine Sticky Toffee Pudding, and everything in between. So why not
journey to all the delicious flavours of Vietnam. Indulge in sautéed Boston take the pain out of the festive season cooking and enjoy your Christmas day with
lobster served with pan-seared diver scallop, squid Ink Linguini, black truffle brunch at GBR and let their expert culinary team cook up a veritable festive feast
and caviar and marinated Wagyu beef strip loin with potato mousseline and wild fit for all the family; meet Father Christmas and sit down to a traditional British
mushroom confit, and finish with chocolate mousse served with dark sweet Christmas lunch, including prawn cocktail, followed by mouth-watering turkey with
cherry, chocolate sponge and a chocolate crispy tulip; and go end your evening all the traditional Christmas day trimmings, and a homemade traditional Christmas
of culinary indulgence enjoy a stunning view of the Burj Khalifa fireworks from pudding! And you can wash it all down with a free mocktail or glass of bubbly – a
Downtown Dubai. New Year’s Eve dinner at Hoi An is served 31 December Christmas treat from DUKES Dubai! Christmas day brunch at GBR, DUKES Dubai
from 7pm-12 midnight with prices starting at $205pp for food only and is served on 25 December between 1pm – 4pm; prices start at $120pp for
$310pp with grape pairings and bubbly. For more information call +971 4 405 food and unlimited soft drinks. For more information call +971 4 455 1111 or
2703 or visit www.shangri-la.com/dubai visit www.dukesdubai.com

Places to
Stay
This month, we enjoy a tropical modernism

in Sri Lanka, take in the culture of Roma,
visit the winter wonderland of Geneva,
experience the rich heritage of Bahrain and
dance the night away in Abu Dhabi
BEAURIVAGE GENEVA
Sitting on the shore of Lake Geneva, in the heart of
Anantara Kalutara SRI LANKA Geneva, this grand old hotel has been at the heart of the
Architectural glory meets sultry paradise at Anantara Kalutara, one of the group’s city for over 150 years, under the passionate guidance of
newest hotels on the verdant teardrop isle. It’s a potent combination. The late Geoffrey the same family for over five generations. Beau-Rivage
Bawa – king of ‘tropical modernism’ – is behind the design, which was one of his last offers the ideal base to explore the winter wonderland
projects. Set in a quaint coastal town between the Kalu Ganga river and the Indian that is Geneva. With your booking, you will receive a free
Ocean, his signature is most visible in the lofty, open-sided lobby that welcomes “Geneva Transport Card” allowing you to use Geneva’s
you. Adorned with intricate batiks throughout, the low-slung structure is a fine place public transport system for the entire duration of your
to soak up the views, cocktail in hand, of course. Bedrooms sprawl the property stay. Geneva teems with winter activities from a romantic
amid swaying palms and elegant gardens. Design is clean and contemporary with excursion and a family getaway. to a scenic boat tour on
local flourishes, best seen in the artwork and furniture. Villas appear in the form of the lake and a grapetasting experience. Gastronomes
heavenly enclaves with plunge pools and sculptures. and chocolate lovers can enjoy the hotel restaurants; for
Come morning, tuck in to hoppers (Sri Lankan pancakes) offset with kicky those of you with a sweet tooth visit The Chocolate Bar
sambal as you listen to the birds chattering around you. Keep your eyes peeled, and enjoy the sweet delights offered on the menu. While
too, for the resident water monitor lizard, often seen slinking into the lagoon at this more delicacies await at Le Chat Botté, where the hotel’s
hour. Afterwards, easy days are promised at one of two pools, or discover the tea opulent restaurant will deliver a Michelin-star New Year and
plantations or national parks nearby. Don’t miss supper at Spice Traders, which Christmas dining experience with creative, modern fare
specialises in modern Sri Lankan cuisine in a traditional setting. Only an hour from from chef Dominique Gauthier. For more information visit
Colombo, while feeling a world away from the bustle, this is a top place to explore Sri www.beau-rivage.ch
Lanka’s many sides. BG. Doubles from $220. anantara.com

Sleep
Tried & Tasted
HOTEL DE RUSSIE ROME complimentary room, plus special seasonal delights for kids, complimentary
Hotel de Russie seamlessly balances old and new, with a modern design treats and a Teddy Turndown Service. The Family Suite package includes:
that respects the classical architecture of the historic building. Located a complimentary interconnecting or adjacent room for 2 children, in-suite
on Via Del Babuino, close to Rome’s Spanish Steps, the hotel enjoys check-in, breakfast each day for the whole family, complimentary meals
striking views over Piazza del Popolo. What better place to make those for children under 3, a 50% discount on meals and beverages for 4-12
special family moments; a Christmas in Rome. Marvel at the Christmas year olds, free Wi-Fi and in-house movies, and a valet service. Prices start
tree and decorations in St. Peter’s Square, go ice-skating at the Castel from $2,340, for more information call +39 06 32 88 81 or visit www.
Sant’Angelo ice rink, see one hundred nativity scenes in the halls of Sala roccofortehotels.com
del Bramante on Piazza del Popolo. Stay in a suite this winter and receive a Images Supplied We Transfer
FESTIVE SEASONS BAHRAIN BAY MANAMA THE ST. REGIS SAADIYAT ISLAND
Once more the holiday season is upon us and the Four Seasons ABU DHABI
Bahrain Bay is offering an enticing collection of culinary festive fare; enjoy Celebrate the festive season at The St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort, Abu Dhabi
Bahrain’s warm hospitality and rich heritage at this award-winning hotel. with a big helping of seasonal cheer. Custom packages, culinary delights, and
Four Seasons Bahrain Bay is offering a complimentary fifth night if you unrivalled service are on offer at one of Abu Dhabi’s most captivating luxury
stay for four consecutive paid nights in a Premier Room. In addition, address. Treat your kids to the Gingerbread House Afternoon Tea, where in
you can receive 20 percent off room rates with the Hotel’s Bahrain
addition to a delightful festive tea, the children will be able to decorate their
Getaway offer. Enjoy Christmas at CUT by Wolfgang Puck; unwrap an
unforgettable festive treat with a mouth-watering Christmas four-course
own gingerbread house. The Gingerbread Afternoon Tea is available every
dinner featuring Wolfgang Puck’s signature soup, handmade pasta, Saturday throughout December between 2pm and 6pm in the Drawing Room
roasted meats and fish, and seasonal desserts. Christmas Dinner priced at $120 for one adult and one child. Welcome in the holiday season
will be served on December 24 and 25, from 7pm until 11pm and is with the lighting of the grand Christmas tree and let the season embrace
priced at $120pp, and the à la carte menu is also available during the you as you enjoy the beautiful melodies of St Regis choir, in the hotel lobby
festive period. The little ones can enjoy ‘Kids For All Seasons’ program, at 6:30pm on Thursday 7 December. Enjoy Christmas Day brunch at Oléa
and look forward to meeting Santa and receiving a special present on as you indulge in the festive culinary creations from the live cooking stations
December 22 and 25, during brunch at Bahrain Bay Kitchen. featuring the Mongolian barbecue, tandoori ovens, Italian pentolo and carving
The New Year’s Eve party will be a fabulous event; spoilt for choice at
stations, large seafood corner, cheese room, and a delicious selection of
Bahrain Bay Kitchen, with a culinary feats that are sure to tantalise your
taste buds, with signature seafood offerings such as, Canadian lobster,
heavenly desserts; accompanied by live entertainment and flawless service.
Alaskan king crab, salt encrusted sea bass and Hokkaido scallops, Served between 1pm and 4pm Monday 25 December, prices start at $170pp
as well as smoked BBQ wagyu short ribs, in addition to a live Asian including soft drinks, children between 6-12 $85pp and kids 5 & under eat for
cooking station, specialties from the tandoori oven, and a tempting free. As the year draws to a close welcome 2018 at the St Regis Saadiyat’s
mix of Arabian favourites; not to mention the Hotel’s famous chocolate incredible ‘Moon & Stars’ themed New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner, a sophisticated
fountain! The New Year’s Eve Buffet will be served on December 31 gastronomic experience in the Regal Ballroom. Count down to the new year
from 8pm until am, prices start at $95pp with soft beverages, and free and enjoy the spectacular fireworks. The Gala Evening is from 7pm till 2:30am
access to the sparkling New Year’s Eve Party by the Azure Pool. For and priced at $540pp inclusive of selected beverages, children aged 6-12
more information visit www.fourseasons.com/bahrain $200pp, and kids aged 5 & under eat for free. For more information visit www.
stregissaadiyatisland.com
DECEMBER
For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range.
1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml
THE PANTRYPAGES 20-24
Coconut and date bites Date and almond shake

MAKES 25 with cinnamon almonds
SERVES 3-4
40g coconut oil
125ml date syrup 40g almonds,
180g dates, stoned and roughly 1 tsp cinnamon
chopped 20 dates, stoned and roughly
½ tsp cinnamon chopped, plus extra to garnish
100g shredded coconut, plus 250ml almond milk
extra to decorate 1 large banana, chopped
120g shelled pistachios, plus 2 tbsp. almond butter
extra to decorate 1 tbsp. date syrup
Raw cacao powder or cocoa, to
decorate Set a dry frying pan over a medium
heat. Add the almonds, sprinkle
Put the coconut oil in a small with ½ tsp cinnamon and cook for
saucepan over a low heat and 2-3 minutes, until toasted.
Mini stilton and cranberry into a large bowl. Rub in the butter leave to melt, then stir in the date Set aside to cool, then roughly
scones with your fingertips until the mix syrup. Set aside. Put the dates, chop. Put the dates, almond milk,
MAKES 20-22 resembles fine breadcrumbs. cinnamon, shredded coconut banana, almond butter and date
Make a well in the centre and and pistachios in a blender and syrup in a blender and blitz until
250g self-raising flour, plus extra pour in all but 1 tbsp milk, the process until the mixture comes smooth. Divide the shake between
for dusting stilton, dried cranberries and together. Transfer to a bowl and stir glasses and top with the cinnamon
1½ tsp baking powder thyme. Bring together with a in the coconut oil and date syrup almonds and extra chopped dates.
50g butter, softened knife until the mixture forms a mix, along with ¼ tsp sea salt
200ml milk sticky dough. Turn out onto a flakes. Mix really well, then roll into
180g stilton, crumbled into small lightly floured surface and flatten walnut-sized pieces and chill in the
pieces, plus extra to serve into a rectangle approximately fridge for 15 minutes. Coat one
40g dried cranberries 2.5cm thick. Stamp out 4cm third of the date balls in crushed
4 sprigs thyme, leaves picked rounds, reshaping the dough as pistachios, one third in shredded
Cranberry sauce or chutney, to necessary. Transfer the scones to coconut and the remainder in the
serve the prepared baking tray and brush raw cacao powder. Chill in the
lightly with the reserved milk. fridge again until needed.
Preheat the oven to 220C, gas Bake for 10 minutes, until
mark 7. Line two large baking trays golden. Serve warm with extra
with baking paper. Sift the flour, stilton and cranberry sauce or
baking powder and a pinch of salt chutney.

BOWLS OF WINTER
GOODNESS
PAGES 32-41
Parmesan, white bean and

kale broth with parmesan
crisps
MAKES 4 BOWLS
Warming greens and
pistachio soup 2 tbsp. olive oil and extra to
MAKES 4 BOWLS decorate
1 onion, in cubes
2 tbsp. olive oil 1 parmesan crust and a piece of
2 onions 100 gr of parmesan
1 garlic clove 1 litre beef or bone broth
2 courgettes, in cubes 3 cups white beans
3 small potatoes, in cubes 3 handfuls of kale
4 cups vegetable stock 1 courgette, in thin noodles
Honeyed pear, ricotta and and the picked thyme leaves. 1 ½ cup peas 1 tbsp. flour
stilton tart Season generously. Spread the 4 tbsp. cream
SERVES 4 cheese mixture over the middle of Handful of pistachios, chopped Heat the olive oil and sweat the
the tart, keeping within the border. 1 spring onion in fine rings onion until translucent. Add the
1 x 375g sheet ready-rolled puff Brush the edges with the Pea and leek cress parmesan crust and stock and
pastry remaining egg yolk. Transfer to the Crusty bread to serve bring to a boil. Leave on a simmer
100g ricotta oven and bake for 25 minutes, for 20 minutes. Add the white
2 egg yolks until the pastry is crisp, golden Chop the onions and garlic beans and two handfuls of the
100g ricotta and puffed up around the edges. and sweat in a little olive oil until kale to heat through. Season with
150g stilton, crumbled Meanwhile, whisk together the translucent. Add the courgettes pepper and check if the soup
4 thyme sprigs, leaves picked honey and white grape vinegar in a and the potatoes and sweat for needs salt. Grate the 100 gr of
plus extra to garnish large bowl. another 2 minutes. Add the stock parmesan and mix with the flour.
2 hard pears, very thinly sliced Add the pear slices, season with and bring to a boil. Cook on low Heat a skillet on medium heat,
1 tbsp. honey plenty of black pepper and turn heat until you can easily pierce the and thinly sprinkle a tablespoon of
½ tsp white grape vinegar to coat. Remove the tart from the potato with the tip of a knife. Add the cheese mix in a circle. Make
25g walnuts, toasted and oven and top with the pear slices, 1 cup of peas and puree with a 3 more heaps in the pan. Bake
chopped remaining stilton, thyme sprigs and stick blender until smooth. Season until golden brown on the bottom,
walnuts. with salt and pepper. Decorate about 1 minute and flip to bake
with the cream, the other ½ cup the other side. Place on a piece
Preheat the oven to 200C, gas of peas, pistachios, spring onion of baking paper to cool and crisp
mark 6. Line a baking tray with and both the cresses. Serve with up. Take the parmesan crust out
baking paper. Unroll the puff pastry crusty bread. of the soup. Share the soup over
sheet onto the prepared tray, score the bowls and rip in the rest of
a 2cm border around the edge the kale. Place some courgette
and prick the centre all over with a noodles in each bowl, top with a
fork. Beat together the ricotta, all little olive oil and serve with the
but 4 tbsp. egg yolk, 120g stilton parmesan crisps.

RECIPES
Tomato and meatball Ginger and chicken broth

minestrone MAKES 2 BOWLS
MAKES 6 BOWLS
Ginger, piece the size of your
4 tbsp. olive oil palm, in slices
1 big onion, in cubes 1 onion
½ aubergine, in cubes 1 carrot
1 can tomato cubes ½ chicken for soup (bones in)
1 jar grilled red peppers, cut 1 stick lemon grass
1 litre tomato passata or sauce 2 chili peppers
1 litre beef stock 200 gr fine rice noodles
300 gr minced meat Juice of 1 lime
Pumpkin soup with spiced in an 180 degree oven for 45 2 cups pasta in your favourite 300 gr mixed mushrooms, sliced
chickpeas minutes. shape (for example: enoki, shii take,
MAKES 4 BOWLS Clean the pumpkin and take out ½ cup yoghurt oyster)
the seeds. Roughly chop. Heat 100 gr grated cheese 1 spring onion
1 big Hokkaido pumpkin (the the olive oil in a pan and add the Basil leaves and cress Shiso leaves
skin of this variety is edible) and spices. Fry until fragrant, about 30 Crusty baguette to serve
4 small one if you want to serve seconds, then add the pumpkin, Bring 1 litre of water with the
the soup in the pumpkin bowls onion, garlic, celeriac and carrots. Heat the olive oil and sweat ginger, onion, carrot, chicken,
4 tbsp. olive oil, plus 2 for the Sauté until the vegetables are the onion and aubergine until lemon grass and 1 chili pepper to
chickpeas starting to soften, about 7 minutes. translucent. Add the tomato, red a boil. Turn heat down and simmer
2 tbsp. cumin, plus 1 tbsp for Pour in the stock and bring to peppers, passata and stock. for half an hour to an hour. In the
the chickpeas a boil. Cook for 20-30 minutes, Bring to a boil and leave on low meantime, soak the rice noodles
1 tbsp. cinnamon, plus 1 tsp for then use a stick blender to puree heat to thicken a little. Season the in hot water for 5 minutes and
the chickpeas the soup until smooth. Add more minced meat with salt and pepper drain. Mix with a little sesame oil
2 tbsp. ginger, plus 1 tsp for the stock if needed. Drain and rinse and roll into little balls. Add to the to prevent sticking. Slice the other
chickpeas the chickpeas, and dry on a paper soup together with the pasta and chili pepper and the spring onion.
2 onions, diced towel. Heat the olive oil in a skillet carefully mix. Cook for another 20 Pass the soup through a fine
3 garlic cloves, chopped and add the cumin, cinnamon, minutes. Serve the soup topped mesh sieve and return to the pan.
¼ celeriac, peeled and diced ginger and garlic. Fry for 30 with yoghurt, cheese and basil Add the lime juice to taste. Take all
4 carrots, diced seconds, then add the chickpeas. cress and leaves, and with crusty the meat off the chicken and tear
1 litre chicken stock (or Toast until starting to crisp and bread to dip. or cut into fine pieces. Add to the
vegetable stock for vegetarian) pop, about 2 minutes. Serve soup together with the mushrooms
½ can chickpeas the soup in the pumpkin bowls, and heat through. Divide the
1 tbsp. garlic powder topped with a spoonful of yoghurt, noodles over two bowls, spoon
Greek yoghurt the chickpeas and the cress. over the hot broth and top with
Basil cress the chili, spring onion and shiso
leaves.
For the pumpkin bowls, carefully
cut off the top of the pumpkin and
take out the seeds with a spoon.
Scrub the outside well. Rub all
the sides with olive oil and place

Scandinavian fish soup Chinese cabbage, curry
MAKES 4 BOWLS and coconut soup with
dates
6 tbsp. butter MAKES 4 BOWLS
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped 4 tbsp. butter
1 onion, chopped 2 tbsp. curry powder
1 leek, sliced in rings 1 onion, in thin rings
2 carrots, thinly sliced ½ Chinese cabbage, shredded
¼ celeriac, peeled and cut in 15 dates, in thin rings
cubes 1 can coconut milk
4 potatoes, cut in cubes 2 cups vegetable stock
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced 4 small crusty breads for
3 cups fish stock serving
2 cups milk ½ cup coconut yoghurt
1 cup thick cream Fresh coconut
1½ tbsp. Worcestershire sauce Cress
400 gr boneless, skinless cod
fillet, cut into 2 cm pieces Heat the butter in a pan and add
1/3 cup dill, chopped, plus extra the curry powder. Cook for 30
for garnish seconds and add the onion and
Juice of 1 lemon cabbage. Sauté until translucent,
Crusty bread, for serving and add the dates, stock and
Black rice and bean stew Heat the olive oil in a pan, add coconut milk. Bring to a boil, then
Heat the butter in a pan and sauté with cocoa and poached half of the onions and the celery turn down the heat and simmer for
the garlic, celery, onion and leek egg and cook for 5 minutes. Add the 5 minutes. Season with salt and
until translucent. Add the carrots, MAKES 2 BOWLS rice, the stock, the beans and the black pepper. In the meantime, cut
celeriac, potatoes and fennel and cocoa powder and bring to a boil. off the tops of the breads and take
cook for another 3 minutes. Pour 3 tbsp. olive oil Turn the heat down and simmer out the inside. Brush with a little
in the stock and milk and bring to 2 red onions, finely diced until the rice is cooked through. olive oil and place in a 180-degree
a low boil. Keep a close eye on 1 celery stalk, chopped Season with salt and pepper. Mix oven for 10 minutes. Make thin
the soup, because the milk might 200 gr black rice the other half of the red onion with slices of the fresh coconut with a
cause it to boil over! Simmer for 3 cups beef stock the vinegar and honey and leave to vegetable peeler. Serve the soup
20 minutes, or until the vegetables 1 tin kidney beans, rinsed marinate. Crack the eggs directly in in the bread bowls, topped with
can be pierced with the tip of a 1 tbsp. cocoa powder the soup and leave until the whites dollops of yoghurt, cress and the
knife, but not mushy. Add the thick 1 avocado, peeled and sliced are set and the yolks are still runny. coconut slices.
cream, Worcestershire sauce, the 2 fresh eggs Carefully divide the soup over
cod fillet and the dill, and heat for 2 tbsp. red wine vinegar 2 bowls and top with avocado,
another 10 minutes. Season with 1 tbsp. honey yoghurt, the red onion salsa, chilli,
salt and pepper. Share the soup 1 red chili, in thin rings cilantro and cress. Serve with the
over 4 bowls and top with more Greek yoghurt lime wedges and corn tortillas.
dill. Serve with crusty bread. Cilantro leaves and cress
1 lime, cut in wedges
Corn tortillas to serve

RECIPES
FESTIVE FOOD TOUR PAGES 52-59
Rotkohl Smoked salmon pâté on

SERVES 6-8 brown bread toast
MAKES 18-20
550g red cabbage
30g butter 1 slim brown baguette, cut into
1 red apple, diced 1cm-thick slices
1 red onion, thinly sliced 2 tbsp. olive oil
100ml red grape vinegar 200g smoked salmon
2 tbsp. soft brown sugar 150g mascarpone
1 cinnamon stick 2 tbsp. horseradish sauce
½ tsp cloves 1 lemon
50g dried cranberries
Preheat the oven to 180°C, gas
Thinly shred the red cabbage. Set mark 4. Arrange the baguette
a large saucepan over a medium slices on a large baking tray, drizzle
heat and leave the butter to melt. with the olive oil and season. Bake
Add the red cabbage, season for 8-10 minutes until crisp and
with salt and pepper and stir well golden. Leave to cool. Slice the
to coat. Cook for 2-3 minutes, smoked salmon into thin strips.
then add the apple and onion and Put 125g salmon in a blender
cook for 5 minutes more. Pour in with the mascarpone, horseradish
the red grape vinegar, followed by and the zest and juice of half
the sugar, cinnamon, cloves and a lemon. Season with plenty
Mini panettone muffins peel and cherries in a large bowl cranberries. Bring to the boil briefly of black pepper and blitz until
MAKES 36 and stir together. Make a well in then reduce the heat to low and smooth. Transfer the mix to a bowl
the centre. In a separate bowl cook for 45 minutes – 1 hour, until and stir in 50g of the remaining
300g self-raising flour whisk together the oil, egg, milk the cabbage is tender but with a smoked salmon. Thinly slice the
75g ground almonds and lemon and orange zest little bite. Serve warm or at room remaining lemon half and cut into
1 tsp baking powder until well combined. Pour the temperature. small triangles. Spread the crostini
220g caster sugar wet ingredients into the bowl with the pate and top with the
100g mixed peel with the dry ingredients and fold remaining sliced salmon and the
75g glacé cherries, halved together until just combined. lemon triangles.
125ml vegetable oil Divide the mixture between the
1 egg mini muffin cases and scatter with
125ml milk the granulated sugar and flaked
zest of ½ orange almonds. Cook for 15-18 minutes,
zest of ½ lemon until light golden and well risen.
2 tbsp. granulated sugar
40g flaked almonds
Preheat the oven to 200°C, gas

mark 6. Arrange 36 mini muffin
cases on baking trays.
Put the flour, ground almonds,
baking powder, sugar, mixed

Cocoa-dusted chocolate Christmas chocolatada
truffles SERVES 4
MAKES 40
150g dark chocolate, plus extra
280g dark chocolate to serve
300ml double cream 700ml water
40g unsalted butter, diced 2 cinnamon sticks
Zest of 1 orange (optional) Melomakarona has dissolved and the syrup has ½ tsp cloves
Cocoa powder, to decorate MAKES 20 - 24 thickened slightly. Remove the pan 170g evaporated milk or whole
from the heat, stir in the honey and milk
Finely chop the chocolate and For the cookies: leave to cool completely. Preheat light brown sugar, to taste
put in a heatproof bowl. Set a 200g fine semolina the oven to 180°C, gas mark 4. ¼ tsp finely grated nutmeg
saucepan with the cream and 450g plain flour, plus extra for Line two large baking trays with whipped cream, to serve
butter over a medium heat and dusting baking paper. In a large bowl stir
stir as the butter melts. Once the 2 tsp baking powder together the semolina, flour and Finely chop the chocolate. Put
cream begins to simmer remove 100ml orange juice baking powder. In a separate bowl, the water in a saucepan with the
the pan from the heat. Pour the hot 100g caster sugar whisk the orange juice, sugar and cinnamon and cloves and bring
cream over the chocolate, stirring 1 tsp ground cinnamon ground spices until well combined. to the boil. Reduce the heat and
constantly until smooth. Add the ½ tsp ground nutmeg Add the baking soda and briskly simmer for 10 minutes. Discard
orange zest, if using. Pour into a ½ tsp ground cloves whisk for 10 seconds more until the spices and return the pan
shallow dish and leave to cool. 2 tsp baking soda the mixture starts to foam. Pour with the water to the heat. Add
Once cool, transfer to the fridge 90ml water in the water, oils, orange zest the chopped chocolate and stir
to chill for at least four hours. 150ml olive oil and honey and whisk again to constantly until melted. Pour in the
Line a baking tray with baking 100ml vegetable oil combine. Add this mixture to the milk, followed by 2 tablespoons
parchment. Dip a teaspoon or zest of 1 orange bowl with flour and semolina and brown sugar and the nutmeg.
melon baller into hot water and 50g runny honey stir to form a dough. Turn out onto Stir well and heat for 3-4 minutes
scoop up balls of the mixture and a surface lightly dusted with flour more. Taste and add more sugar
place on the prepared baking For the syrup: and knead until smooth. Break off if needed. Divide the chocolatada
tray. Chill for 1 hour more. Roll 200ml water walnut-sized pieces of dough and between mugs and top with a
the truffles in the cocoa powder, 200g caster sugar shape into an oblong shape. Place spoonful of whipped cream and
reshaping into balls with your 2 cinnamon sticks on the prepared baking tray and little chopped chocolate.
hands. Keep in the fridge until 1 tsp cloves flatten lightly with a fork. Repeat
needed. 1 orange, thinly sliced with the remaining dough. Bake in
150g runny honey the oven for 20-25 minutes until
lightly browned and just cooked
To decorate: through. Remove from the oven
chopped walnuts and while still warm place a few of
the melomakarona in the syrup for
First make the syrup. Put the 20 seconds or so, turning halfway.
water, sugar, cinnamon, cloves Transfer to a wire rack and dust
and orange slices in a saucepan with chopped walnuts. Repeat with
and set over a high heat. Boil the remaining cookies.
for 6-8 minutes until the sugar

LAST WORD WITH
Mahmoud Turkmani Head Chef, 7Elephants Dubai

or many great chefs the idea of designing a menu that Dubai, Turkmani would continually summer abroad. He spent time
F incorporates seven styles of cuisine would be a daunting

prospect. Gaining the knowledge and expertise to balance
several types of fare requires no small amount of dedication and
in Germany, Spain, Lebanon and Turkey, and in each country
would develop his understanding of its cuisine. It also led to the
Syrian chef developing a taste for differing ingredients from all over
plenty of skill. But for chef Mahmoud Turkmani, the opportunity to the world.
showcase his love for food from across the globe was a major “I have always thought about the answer to the question of
selling point. whether I have a favourite style of food. And yes I am Syrian and
Having grown up in Damascus, Syria, and developed an love my culture and food, but at the same time it depends on my
appreciation for Mediterranean dishes, Turkmani has spent close to mood as I love to sample food from all over,” admits Turkmani.
two decades travelling around the world in order to broaden his This passion for exploring different cultures and sampling
knowledge of ingredients, techniques and flavours. Combining his different dishes allowed Turkmani to perfect the menu at 7
passion for both food and travel he was presented with the perfect Elephants. Informed that he would be able to choose the style of
opportunity to showcase what he has learnt when appointed as food, he decided to include dishes from Italy, Mexico, Britain, Bali,
head chef of 7Elephants in Dubai’s financial district. India, Spain and the Middle East.
“Ever since moving to Dubai 17 years ago I have made time to Creating such a varied menu was a huge challenge for Turkmani
travel,” explains Turkmani. “There is always curiosity and something and his talented team of chefs, but it gave the restaurant a chance
new to learn, so every summer I try to spend a few months in to appeal to a huge cross section of the population in Dubai.
another country. It is a never-ending learning process. It is Turkmani’s hunger for culinary knowledge that has allowed
“I spent time in Lima in Peru working in an amazing Inka restaurant him to create such a varied menu at 7 Elephants. “Everyone brings
and at that time not much was known about their style of food. Now their own culture when they move to Dubai so you get to learn how
it is a huge hit, but this was very much at the beginning. It was other countries understand food. It is nice to see how they see
amazing learning about the influences on Peruvian food, one of things and use the ingredients they bring from their home country,”
which is actually Japanese cuisine. They use local ingredients but he says. “It’s like a free ticket for me to that chef’s home without
use Japanese methods and even deliver more of a Japanese taste. actually flying there. Dubai is a place now where you can get
“That of course led me to become interested in travelling to anything you want.”
Japan and last summer I was able to do that. It was incredible as So what can we expect to see on the menu at 7 Elephants in the
wherever you go in Japan they have the same technique. I near future? Well it all depends on where Turkmani decides to
worked with Alain Ducasse and I trained in Le Meridien with explore next. He is already planning a trip to Germany so perhaps
French chefs but they all had different styles and techniques. But the restaurant may soon also have a Bavarian influence.
in Japan virtually everyone has the same style so you have to “I am always thinking of where to go next and there is a new up
adapt to them.” and coming chef in Berlin that I would love to work with,” adds
Before long Turkmani made the move to Dubai in order to study Turkmani. “He has also spent time in Japan so I think it would be
at the Emirates Academy. This led to roles in a number of high end great to work with him and I have already been in contact.
restaurants including The Residence at The One & Only Royal Even with his hands full in Dubai it seems Turkmani will never tire
Mirage, Cigaretto at the Jumeirah Group and at Margeux by Alain of his endless culinary journey. Wherever he travels to next, you
Ducasse. can be assured that 7 Elephants and Blue Marlin will profit from his
While enhancing his culinary skills under some top-class chefs in extra knowledge.
Words: Adrian Back

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COMFORTING SOUPS THAT WILL WARM YOUR COCKLES

BOWLS OF VOL 4 ISS 12

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Experience the taste

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