In Happy Pigs Taste Better Percy offers a comprehensive look at raising organic, pasture-fed, gourmet meat. She advises readers on pasturing and feeding hogs organically, as well as managing the breeding herd and administering effective natural healthcare. In addition, she provides an overview of marketing and
In Happy Pigs Taste Better Percy offers a comprehensive look at raising organic, pasture-fed, gourmet meat. She advises readers on pasturing and feeding hogs organically, as well as managing the breeding herd and administering effective natural healthcare. In addition, she provides an overview of marketing and
In Happy Pigs Taste Better Percy offers a comprehensive look at raising organic, pasture-fed, gourmet meat. She advises readers on pasturing and feeding hogs organically, as well as managing the breeding herd and administering effective natural healthcare. In addition, she provides an overview of marketing and
INTRODUCTION
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Why Happy Pigs?
Pigs and humans have been together for a long
time—vell over ten thousand years! The history of
the two species likely first joined in southwestern
"Turkey, though new evidence based on DNA.
sequencing suggests that wild boars may have been
domesticated independently in thirteen other
regions, ranging from central Europe to the Indian
subcontinent to central China and Oceania," In the
millennia that followed, domesticated swine spread
to practically every comer of the globe. Christopher
‘Columbus brought pigs to Cuba, while Hernando
de Soto brought them to the North American
mainland. They arrived in Australia with the First
Fleet in 1788 and in New Zealand with whalers in
the early nineteenth century, All around the world,
pigs’hardiness, versatility, and tastiness have made
them desirable companions for humans
In North America the pig quickly natural~
ized in southern regions and was brought west
by European colonists traveling from the eastern
seaboard. For pioneers on the move or living in
crude conditions, pigs were easier to care for
than sheep or cattle and provided a valuable
source of cooking fat. ‘Their appeal to settlers
was further enhanced by the fact that their meat
could be easily preserved by salting or brining
before the invention of refrigeration.
In the early days of pig production, swineherds
moving pigs to urban markets only expected to
travel 10 miles (16 km) per day, so operations
were generally small and local, with each farm
keeping a small number of swine for consumption
by the family and neighbors.? The advent of rail
travel facilitated the movement of grain to pigs
and pigs to market, allowing the size of opera~
tions to increase, With the invention of modern
grain harvesting machinery, traditional methods
of feeding hogs by ranging them on wild land
or in cornfields lost popularity, and by the 1950s
the development of modern intensive swine
production was well under way. The physiology
of the pig changed in tandem with production
methods: With easy access to cheap vegetable
oil and widespread adoption of refrigeration,
demand for lard and salt pork fell while demand
for lean meat rose. Early American settlers would
scarcely recognize a post-World War II hog
farm. Instead of a handful of short-coupled fat
hogs rooting in the woods for grubs, they would
see hundreds or thousands of long, lean animals
packed into indoor facilities and eating grain.
Efficiency became the name of the game.
Farmers and researchers made enormous strides
in swine productivity in the second half of the
‘twentieth century by breeding for reproductive
capacity (the average litter size increased from 7.5
pigs to 11 pigs, and the average number of pigs
weaned per sow per year nearly doubled), feedHappy Pigs Taste Better
efficiency (the average feed-to-gain ratio shrank
by more than 20 percent), and phenotypes that
increased marketable yield (average lean yields
increased by 30 percent).' Improved knowledge of
swine nutrition, the ability to accurately measure
the nutritional contentof feedstuffs,and the devel-
opment of certain feed additives contributed to
the improvements in feed efficiency and reduced
the excretion of nitrogen and phosphorus in swine
effluent. In and of themselves, these developments
had the capacity to improve farm profits, benefit
consumers with lower grocery prices, and ease the
strain on the natural environment by reducing the
land base required to produce the US pork crop
and reducing the threat to water quality.
Unfortunately, things did not work out
that way. The new efficiencies required scale
and heavy capital investments to fully realize,
which impeded entry to the market by smaller
producers. Today, just four large meatpacking
operations process nearly two-thirds of the
hogs produced in the United States.* ‘These
operations have extensive control over market
pricing and, understandably, prefer to work with
larger producers who can provide high volumes
of meat and afford to run on slimmer margins.
‘While per capita annual pork consumption has
fluctuated between 45 and 60 pounds (20.4 and
27.2 kg) for half a century, the American popula-
tion has more than doubled since 1950, resulting
in an increase in overall pork consumption that
significantly outpaces the gains we have made
in feed efficiency.’ And despite small farmers’
complaints about the modern consumer's expec
tations for cheap food, even the consumer hasn't
benefited: The inflation-adjusted price for bacon
at the grocery store rose by 6 percent between
1950 and 2016.‘ ‘the biggest beneficiaries of
modern pork production techniques are wealthy
middlemen, not farmers, eaters, or the earth.
Meanwhile, the biggest losers are the hogs
themselves. The modem pig lives a very differ
ent life from that of its ancestors a century ago.
Instead of roaming the woods, foraging, or living
in a sty with an outdoor yard and eating scraps, it
lives indoors from birth to death and eats a scien-
tifically balanced but very homogeneous diet. A
well-run confinement grower facility is not neces
sarily injurious to hog comfort—the best facilities
are climate controlled, well it, well ventilated, and
impeccably clean—but producers in the single
minded pursuit of efficiency cut comers in these
departments all too often, It is not difficult to find
the sort of operation featured in exposés by animal
rights organizations: crowded, dirty, damp, dark,
stinky, and staffed by overworked and under-
tained handlers. Even in the better facilities, the
incentive is always there to produce more animals
in less space and less time. By the late 1960s most
sows were confined to farrowing erates for birth~
ing and lactation—eages so small that the animals
could not turn around, let alone move freely. Later,
crating was extended to gestating sows as well
Meanwhile, the average age of weaning
dropped by about half, which required the devel:
opment of highly refined, protein-rich diets based
‘on animal products such as dried blood plasma.
Growing hogs stressed by overcrowding resorted
to cannibalism, leading producers, in turn, to begin
the practice of routinely docking tals. Farms chas-
ing ever greater feed efficiency use synthetic feed
additives such as ractopamine, which is certainly
effective but increases stress response to aggressive
handling and increases the number of nonambula-
tory pigs.” Selecting for ultralean, heavily muscled
body types has encouraged the proliferation of the
halothane gene, which can cause sudden death in
stressed animals. As long as reducing production
costs is the only way for the producer to succeed,
the animals will continue to be the losers.Introduction
Fortunately for the pigs, many consumers care
about them. Few Americans have a direct connec-
tion to how their food is produced anymore, or
think much about where their BLT came from,
but most are sentimental to some degree about
animals and want them to be treated well. Most
also want their great-grandchildren to have water
to drink, food to eat, and air to breathe. When
confronted with the negative impact of the
modern livestock industry on the environment
and animal welfare, some consumers will abso:
lutely go into ostrich mode rather than change
their buying habits, and some will decide to
avoid meat entirely. Others, though, learn about
alternative ways of getting meat to the table and
decide either to raise their own meat or to support
producers who are dedicated to environmental
protection and animal welfare—and they under-
stand that those principles come at additional
financial cost. This demand creates a genuine
opportunity to start creating a better system.
Alternative methods of hog production
(including certified organic, pasture-based, and
other extensive methods) on homesteads and
family-scale farms benefit the farmer, the hog, the
environment, and the consumer. High-welfare
hog production benefits the farmer because
the product distinguishes itself on the market.
‘Competing in the mainstream markets as a small
producer is most likely a nonstarting proposition,
and definitely a losing game, especially if you are
committed to maximizing animal welfare (the
margins in mainstream production are too slim
to allow this commitment). As a niche producer,
however, you can exercise some control over your
scale, your markets, and your profitability. The pig
obviously benefits because it is allowed to be a pig
(anda happy pig, at that!) instead of just a produc
tion unit. Like its ancestors, it gets to experience
sunshine and free movement and exercise its natu-
ral instincts. The environment benefits because
small-scale farms are well adapted to composting
‘manure instead of handling it as liquid effluent,
turning farm “waste” into a resource rather than
a contaminant. If you grow or purchase organic
feed, the environment benefits doubly because
your farm supports crop production practices that
conserve soil quality and avoid toxic synthetic
materials. Consumers benefit from the satisfac~
tion of a connection with the source of their food,
the comfort of knowing that their bacon habit
doesn't come at the expense of animal welfare, and
above all an improved dining experience—happy
pigs really do taste better!
Fully realizing all these benefits at a sustain
able price requires informed decision-making by
both farmer and eater—and that is where you
and this book come into play.
A Bit about Me
I was born and raised on a small dairy goat
farm in Whitefield, Maine. Every summer my
father raised a couple of pigs in the backyard in
a ramshackle little pen that we moved daily so
that the pigs could enjoy fresh grass. My parents
wouldn't buy me a horse, so I spent a lot of time
playing in the pigpen—one of the first things I
learned about pigs is that they won't cooperate
with a rider!
My childhood on the farm led to an abid-
ing interest in crops and animals alike. My high
school advisor urged against pursuing an agri-
cultural degree because I was a “good student,”
so I enrolled at Colby College in Waterville,
‘Maine, in their environmental studies program.
Atthe time I was a strict vegetarian. My eating
habits were the result of concerns about the
living conditions of livestock on large confine
ment farms—having grown up cating happy