6/29/2019 What to eat and where to go on Naxos, Greece

JUNE 29, 2019 Unknown author

What to eat and where to go on Naxos,

Greece
Nudge your way through the crowd disembarking from the daily ferry,
traverse a boardwalk where dried octopus dangles from awnings, and
step into a labyrinth of cobblestoned alleyways opening onto shops and
outdoor restaurants. You’ve arrived in the main town, or chora, of
Naxos, Greece.

A four-hour ferry ride southeast of Athens, the island of Naxos is a

calming escape from bustling neighbors Mykonos and Santorini. It’s
the largest of the Cyclades Islands—and the only fully self-su cient
one, with all food resources available directly on the island without
need for imports. Resident Naxiots have cultivated the island’s 165
square miles of verdant, diverse terrain over millennia of habitation,
and today hundreds of thousands of tourists a year ock there to feast
on its gastronomic treasures.

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6/29/2019 What to eat and where to go on Naxos, Greece

Melachrino, a dense walnut cake moistened with Kitron, is the perfect

dessert for any meal on Naxos.

Courtesy Nikos Anagnostopoulo, Taverna Axiotissa

According to Greek mythology, Dionysus, the god of wine, blessed the

island of Naxos with fertility. It’s true the island’s landscape yields a
hearty abundance that informs its hyper-local cuisine. Due to a lack of
natural ports, shing isn’t a primary food source. Instead, cows graze
coastal elds that soak up sea mist, free-roaming goats and sheep
gnaw wild oregano and thyme in the rocky hills, and roosters and
rabbits help themselves to locals’ veggie-heavy compost. Unique
among the dry, barren Cyclades, Naxos produces a rich harvest of
cheeses; meats; butter; potatoes; oil; honey; spices; and Kitron, a local
spirit made from the leaves and fruit of the citron tree. (Visit the
islands where most Greek marble statues were made.)

Naxiots honor these bold natural avors in recipes that don’t need
stfuls of salt. It’s easy to nd superb traditional dishes in the town of
Naxos itself, but you’d be remiss not to tackle the winding, cli side
roads to enjoy dinner with a taste of the mountain villages’ local
culture as well.

Must-try meals
Kokoras me Makaronia (rooster braised in red sauce): Longer cook
times are needed for the tough meat of Naxos roosters, which roam
rugged territory and bulk up their muscles. Hours of simmering the
chicken in red wine and tomatoes creates a
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spooned over fresh spaghetti. Though this dish is ubiquitous, it’s best
eaten at village taverns: Try Pigi in Ano Potamia or Matina & Stavros in
Koronos.

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Kokoras me makaronia (rooster braised in red sauce) is one of Naxos’s

traditional dishes served best at a traditional family taverna.

Courtesy Vioma Naxos

Wild rabbit: At family-run Taverna Axiotissa in Kastraki, cooks

accentuate the animal’s naturally sumptuous avors by braising it with
lemon, onion, and oregano in a dish called kouneli riganato. Head to
the village of Melanes to try the rabbit at O Giorgis: It’s slowly cooked
into a stew (stifado) with red wine, tomato sauce, and aromatic spices.

Goat: Often boiled alongside hórta (wild or cultivated greens), goat

brings forth strong avors from its wild herb–heavy diet. Simple
recipes, like goat roasted with onions (kleftiko) or goat stew, can be
best enjoyed at Taverna Lefteris and Taverna Platanos in Apeiranthos, a
village known for its communal celebration of food.

Melachrino (walnut cake): Walnuts grow in droves throughout the

island. In addition to traditional baklava, Naxiots create a dense cake
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moistened with local Kitron. Using dairy, olive oil, and produce from
their on-site farm, Apolafsi, a restaurant in Kastraki, serves a full and
indulgent menu that triumphantly concludes with melachrino.

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policy.

How to visit
Book a daily ferry to Naxos from Athens or surrounding islands like
Crete, Mykonos, or Santorini. Boats are overcrowded in the summer, so
pay extra for more spacious rst-class seating—or visit during
shoulder seasons (May-June and September-October). You can also y
directly from Athens via Aegean Airlines-Olympic Air. Rent a car for
easy access to the villages, as the bus system can be a puzzle and some
trips could take hours. For a general overview of traveling to Naxos,
Discover Greece provides handy guidance. (Here’s an insider’s guide to
the best of Greece.)

Check into one of the chora’s several hotels, then poke around specialty
stores like Tyrokomia Naxou (artisanal cheese) or Tziblakis Traditional
Shop (herbs, teas, tinctures, and kitchen supplies). For a deep dive into
culinary exploration, book a tour or cooking
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And if, after all that, you still have an appetite, end the night at Oniro
Wine Bar Restaurant to discover modern takes on classics like beef stew
(kalogeros) or slow-cooked pork leg (rosto). (Meet the tourist who
became the only nun on the Greek island of Amorgos.)

Though many old-world traditions remain engrained in family-run

taverns, Oniro is part of a trend of new techniques ushering dishes into
the modern era.

“Younger generations who left Naxos to pursue schooling and careers

elsewhere are returning with new outlooks,” said Vaggelis
Foutakoglou, a native Naxiot and co-owner of Ep’Avlis, a small, self-
catering hotel. “They are coming back, but keeping traditions alive.”

Danielle Bernabe is a lifestyle, history, and

culinary writer based in Los Angeles. Find her on
Instagram @dbernabe.

Related: visit the world’s best food cities

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View Slideshow

1. LONDONGet a crash course in British food culture by exploring bustling

Borough Market, at the south end of London Bridge. Vendors peddle
everything from just-caught seafood and just-picked produce to artisanal
cheeses and blue-ribbon baked goods. Be sure to sample traditional fare
such as a full English breakfast at the Regency Café or sh and chips at the
century-old Golden Hind. Sup on contemporary cuisine at The Hand and
Flowers, England’s only Michelin two-star pub. Feeling adventurous?
Cruise to Carousel, featuring rotating chefs and concepts. (Read our guide
to London.)… Read MorePhotograph by Yiu Cheung, Getty Images
2. TOKYO

Take a stroll down Memory Lane (Omoide Yokocho), where pint-sized

yakitori joints serve sizzling chicken skewers right o the grill. In the
Kichijoji neighborhood, belly up to the standing bars of Harmonica
Yokocho. (Read our guide to Tokyo.)

… Read MorePhotograph by Lucas Vallecillos, VWPics/Redux

3. SEOULWith 5,000 vendors, Gwangjang Market o ers iconic dishes like
soondae (blood sausage). For Korean barbecue, try local favorite WooSung
Galbi or the more upscale Yeontabal BBQ restaurant. (Read our guide to
Seoul.)… Read MorePhotograph by Sean Pavone, Alamy Stock Photo
4. PARISThe City of Light dazzles with Michelin three-star stunners such
as Pierre Gagnaire and Arpège, plus buzzy street markets and serious
shops like Quatrehomme, which stocks more than a thousand varieties of
cheese. (Read our guide to Paris.)… Read MorePhotograph by Cathrine Stukhard,
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Laif/Redux
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5. NEW YORKFrom curries in Manhattan’s Murray Hill to knishes in

Brooklyn’s Little Odessa, the boroughs o er global tastes. But don’t miss
the Upper West Side’s cash-only, attitude-heavy Absolute Bagels. (Read
our guide to New York.)… Read MorePhotograph by Louise Palmberg, Redux
6. ROMEUtterly epic, the Testaccio Market houses farm stands,
shmongers, and prepared foods representing all of Italy. An archetypal
Roman meal? Checchino dal 1887’s tonnarelli pasta lavished with thick
oxtail sauce. (Read our guide to Rome.)… Read MorePhotograph by Nati Shohat,
Flash90/Redux
7. BANGKOKDevour street foods such as tom sap (porky sweet and sour
soup) and som tam (spicy green papaya salad). Then claim a seat at Nahm,
where chef Pim Techamuanvivit puts a modern spin… Read MorePhotograph
by DAVID TERRAZAS, The New York Times/Redux
8. SÃO PAULO

Dive into the boho Baixo Pinheiros area to sample some of the city’s
hottest bars and restaurants, spanning cuisine from Asia to Europe, a nod
to the immense expat community. Brazil is

… Read MorePhotograph by Luiz Maximiano, Laif/Redux

9. BARCELONA

Check out the cheeses and olive oils under the colorful roof of Santa
Caterina Market. Then indulge in the Catalan dish la bomba, a fried ball of
mashed potatoes stu ed with meat—perfect with a glass of smooth
vermouth. (Read our guide to Barcelona.)

… Read MorePhotograph by Frank Heuer, Laif/Redux

10. DUBAINo matter your cravings, you can satisfy them in this ever-
evolving oasis. There’s stellar seafood at Pierchic, Arabian cuisine with
sword ghting at Al Hadheerah, and pop-ups from celebrity chefs at
ultraluxe Enigma. (Read our guide to Dubai.)… Read MorePhotograph by
Monica Gumm, Laif/Redux
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11. ISTANBULA sh sandwich from the Eminönü neighborhood, where

boats grill their fresh catch, is a must, as are lamb skewers spiced with hot
urfa pepper and sweet cubes of Turkish delight from the 240-year-old
Hacı Bekir candy shop. (Read our guide to Istanbul.)… Read MorePhotograph
by Rolf Nobel, VISUM/Redux
12. SINGAPOREEschew highbrow kitchens for the food courts, or hawker
centers. There Chinese, Indian, and Malay cultures intertwine to produce
intense avors such as pungent curried laksa soup and bak kut teh (pork
ribs cooked in broth). (Read our guide to Singapore.)… Read
MorePhotograph by Robert Haidinger, Laif/Redux
13. MADRID

Bar hop through Barrio de las Letras with stops at Taberna La Dolores and
Lamiak. Small snacks called pintxos bring big avors. Enjoy them with a
gin and tonic, a cocktail Spaniards love dressing up. (Read our guide to
Madrid.)

… Read MorePhotograph by LucVi, Getty Images

14. SHANGHAIIn the tree-lined streets of the French Concession, pop into
whichever café strikes your fancy. Sample cuisine from across China,
making sure to order the addictive xiao long bao, steamed dumplings lled
with broth. (Read our guide to China.)… Read MorePhotograph by Fabio Nodari,
Alamy Stock Photo
15. OSAKANosh on okonomiyaki—a savory pancake made with grated
vegetables plus your choice of add-ins—and takoyaki, octopus- lled fried
dough. Drink like a local at sake bars near the Namba rail stations. (Read
our guide to Japan.)… Read MorePhotograph by Xavier POPY, REA/Redux
16. LAS VEGASTop toques light up the Strip, from José Andrés to Joël
Robuchon. Step away from the glitz for a riot of Hawaiian food (go for poke
and Spam musubi at Island Sushi), which helped the city earn the
nickname “Ninth Island.” (Read our guide to Las Vegas.)… Read
MorePhotograph by Mark Peterson, Redux
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17. HONG KONGAmble through Temple Street Night Market or Kowloon’s

Sham Shui Po neighborhood, and home in on classic Cantonese: chee
cheong fun (rice noodle rolls with seasoned soy sauce) and char siu bao
(buns hiding sweet pork). (Read our guide to Hong Kong.)… Read
MorePhotograph by Stefan Mokrzecki, Getty Images
18. BERLINWiener schnitzel and wheat beer are just the beginning. Look
for hip cocktails like gespritztes (beer with fruit soda), spicy currywurst,
doner kebab sandwiches, and jelly-stu ed pfannkuch… Read
MorePhotograph by Andreas Pein, Laif/Redux
19. BEIJINGPeking duck claims the spotlight (with good reason), but
sharing a mutton hot pot (shuanyangrou) is a more novel experience.
Diners dunk paper-thin slices of mutton and vegetables into boiling broth,
then sesame paste. (Read our guide to Beijing.)… Read MorePhotograph by
Nicolas Maderna, Alamy Stock Photo
20. RIO DE JANEIROChill out at no-frills boteco bars with cold brews and
savory snacks. Or follow the food trucks that whip up worldly dishes. At
Oro, chef Felipe Bronze reimagines common Brazilian fare in avant-garde
creations. (Read our guide to Rio de Janeiro.)… Read MorePhotograph by Foto
Arena LTDA, Alamy Stock Photo
21. NEW DELHI

Pick any paratha—rich, layered atbreads—for an old school experience.

An immersion into modernism, Indian Accent restaurant plates favorite
avors in new forms, such as jackfruit in a taco of phulka bread. (Read our
guide to Delhi.)

… Read MorePhotograph by Stuart Freedman, Getty Images

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