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Intro:
This article is intended to collect together technical info and practical hands-on data about the venerable Dana 60 front axle. It is not a how-to article, but more a collection of information and
facts. With an article of this scope, it is very difficult to personally verify all the information or ensure complete accuracy, but I have attempted to be as complete and accurate as possible.
Keep in mind that nothing in the axle world is cast in stone, variations are always possible.
Disclaimer:
I do not recommend nor endorse any of the modifications shown in this article, the information is provided for personal information purposes only. I am not an Engineer, metallurgist, or
mechanic - I have absolutely no professional qualifications whatsoever in this regard - I have simply collected information from others. Use of any of the information contained herein is at
your own risk. It is therefore your responsibility to maintain safety in and around your vehicle at all times. It is likely that some procedures featured here may void your vehicle's (or parts
thereof) warranty. It is also likely that some of the information featured shows procedures that may not be legal for street use in some or all states within the US and/or any other countries
and may not be safe for on or off-road use. The article's author, nor anyone related to this web page, cannot be held responsible for any damage, failure, or violations of the law, that might
result from from the use of any information contained on this page, or linked to on this page .
In particular I do not recommend the grinding of brake callipers, nor the conversion of dual rear wheel (DRW) hubs to single rear wheel (SRW) hubs, as these components were never
designed to be modified and used in this manner.
Acknowledgements:
There is no way all this information could have been compiled without the help of a great number of people - some knowingly, most not. I harvested the information from about 1999-2002
mostly from the most excellent Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board, but also from other knowledgeable wheelers, manufacturer's web sites, and the personal experience of my club mates and I.
If you notice any errors, please let me know via our club bulletin board The Right Coast Crawlers BB. If you notice pictures or large portions of text that are yours and you would like
specific credit, let me know. Also, if I have used pictures of yours that you object to, please let me know so that I can remove them. With that said, I must give thanks to the following list of
folks, although the list is by no means complete:
Sherpa rig, Patooyee, 66CJDean, Wolf 359, Onetonwillysands10, Scott at Rockstomper, Emsoffroad, Alpo, Ant, Aggro, BadDog, BigDude, PinBall, Ultim8kaos, Chad.
Extra special thanks to Steve Gerstner of Differential Engineering for taking the time to call me personally, all the way from Florida, to correct many of my mistakes and to share a little of his
vast knowledge. Steve is one of, if not the, premier custom axle builder in North America. He has personally handled over 500 Dana60 front axles......now THAT's experience!!
Attachments:
The following documents located on our server provide additional information and data on the Front Dana 60
Links:
The following companies and suppliers are sources of parts and info for the front Dana 60
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Description:
The Dana 60 front axle is a heavy-duty 4wd front steering axle manufactured by Dana Spicer corporation. It was most commonly used in many one ton and some 3/4 ton pickup trucks.
Over the years there have been many different variations, from early Ford closed knuckle low pinion types, to the common GM kingpin low pinion, to the 94+ Dodge Dana 60 with a vacuum
operated central axle disconnect, balljoints, and 32 spline inner shafts.
The most desirable axles for heavy duty 4x4 use in stock form have open kingpin knuckles, 35 spline inner axles, 30 spline outer axles (stub shafts), and disc brakes. Later model Ford high
pinion (HP) Dana 60s with balljoints instead of kingpins are also desirable axles, though many prefer the kingpin knuckles over the balljoints.
The undesirable front Dana 60 axles will not be covered by this article, and include:
74-75.5 Ford low pinion drivers side closed knuckle drum brake with 30 spline inners, 19 spline outers, small ujoints and weak knuckles.
75.5-77 Ford low pinion drivers side open knuckle disc brake 30 spline inners, 19 spline outers, outer knuckle spindle pilot hole is smaller than 78+ axle and is therefore notched to allow
1480 series U-joint tp pass through.
94+ Dodge drivers side low pinion CAD unit bearing hub 32 spline 1.31 coil sprung Dana 60s
Any other closed knuckle Dana 60, like those from a Jeep M715 that had coarse spline axles.
GM
1984-88 CUCV
1988-91.5 V30
All GM / Chevy versions were passenger side differential, regular rotation (low pinion) gears, disc brakes, 35 spline inners, 30 spline outers, internal style hubs, and kingpin knuckles.
Dodge
1975-89 D-600
1992-93 D-600
1981-89 D-700
1992-93 D-700
All these Dodge versions were passenger side differential, regular rotation (low pinion) gears, disc brakes, 35 spline inners, 30 spline outers, and kingpin knuckles. 1979-89 versions had
external style hubs, with the earlier versions with full-time NP203 Transfer cases having external drive flanges, and later models having external lockout hubs. The external lockout hub bolt
pattern is 8 x 3.960". The 90-93 versions had internal style hubs just like the Chevy and lockout hubs. One caution with dodge applications, is you have to be careful to avoid the Dana 61
front axle. 1987-88 and 1991-93.5 Dodge D600 and D700 also came with Dana 61. More info on the Dana 61 later in the article.
Ford
1978-79 F-350 and some F-250 (Snofighter and High GVW packages)
1986-88 F-350 with dual rear wheels (DRW)
2000 F350/F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern F350 / 8x220mm F450/F550, unit bearing hub)
2000.5 F350/F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern F350 / 8x220mm F450/F550, unit bearing hub)
2001 F350 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)
2001-02 F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x220mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)
2002 F250/F350 SRW (balljoint, metric 8x170mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)
2002 F450/F550 DRW (balljoint, metric 8x220mm wheel bolt pattern, unit bearing hub)
All these Ford versions were drivers side differential, reverse-cut (high pinion) gears, and kingpin knuckles to 1991.5 and balljoints thereafter. Most Ford D60s are internal style hubs, but
external type lockout versions do exist. 2000 and later Ford D60s have balljoints, a metric wheel lug pattern of 8x170mm up to F350 and 8x220mm for F450/F550, different brakes and
spindles, sealed "unit-bearing hubs", hub-centric wheels, different length axleshafts from the earlier D60s, and larger Superduty specific tie rod ends. From 2000 on, the Ford D60 front axle
is also known as the Model 60F2000+ or the 248M. 248 just happens to be the equivalent in millimeters of 9.75" - the diameter of the D60s ring gear.
IHC
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This paragraph is just a quick summary of the most notable differences, more detailed info is spread throughout the article in the dimensions table, parts interchange table, etc.
Dodge and Chevy front Dana 60s are very similar, and in many cases fairly interchangeable - both parts and entire assemblies. Differences do exist, and some are:
1) All Chevy D60s are kingpin knuckle, whereas early (79-93 ) Dodge are kingpin and later (94+ ) are balljoint (and undesirable)
2) All Chevy D60s are internal style lockout / drive flange bearing hubs, whereas early (79-89 ) Dodge are external, and later Dodge (90-93) are internal.
3) Dodge and Chevy outer kingpin knuckles are very similar, and either will bolt to the other axle, but they are not identical - tie-rod placement is different - the Dodge mounts the TRE about
an inch and a half higher. Tie rod end taper is the same for all Chavy, Dodge up to 93, and 78-79 Ford. 85+ Ford is smaller to 99, then 2000+ Ford Superduty is larger and Super-duty
sepcific.
4) Chevy leaf spring pads are 3 inches wide and 32 inches apart (center-pin to center-pin), Dodge are 2.5 inches wide and 32.5 inches apart.
5) All SRW Chevy D60s are 69" wide wheel-mounting-surface to wheel-mounting-surface (wms-wms). Most SRW Dodge are 67" wide, although some are reportedly 69" wide too. A Dodge
DRW D60 is 75.5" wms-wms.
6) Chevy rotors are 1.5" thick, early dodge rotors are 1.25" thick, but the calipers are identical. Dodge D60s from the CTD years (90-ish to 93) have 1.5" rotors.
7) Dodge D60s from the CTD years (90-ish to 93) have a higher tierod location than the older Chevys.
Differences between the Chevy/Dodge D60 and Ford D60 are more numerous and apparent. They include
2) The Chevy/Dodge spindle and bearing/wheel hub are 5/8" longer than the Ford.
3) The Chevy/Dodge stub shaft is 0.600" longer than the Ford stub shaft
4) Chevy rotors are about 1.5" thick, the Ford and Dodge rotors are about 1.25" thick
6) The Chevy/Dodge outer knuckle is clearanced for their large single-piston calipers, the Ford are not.
7) The Chevy/Dodge caliper mounting bracket bolts on AFTER the spindle, as in knuckle-->spindle-->caliper bracket, whereas the Ford mounts the caliper bracket between the knuckle and
spindle, as in knuckle-->caliper bracket-->spindle
8) The Chevy/Dodge are passenger drop regular cut low pinion diffs, the Ford are drivers drop reverse cut high pinion.
9) Chevy/Dodge uses six 1/2" spindle studs, Ford uses five 7/16" spindle studs
10) Ford knuckles seem to have more issues with the upper kingpin area strength than others. Chevy/Dodge knuckle has thicker ribbing around the upper kingpin area.
11) Ford knuckles have a shorter steering arm than the Chevy/Dodge. A 1.5" diameter tie-rod on a stock Ford D60 will justtouch the diff cover at full lock. The same tie-rod on a GM Dana 60
would be just over 1/2" away from the cover at full lock.
Here is a table of front D60 axles showing Bill of Material (BOM) numbers, sorted by manufacturer.
The BOM is stamped on the axle housing tube as indicated in the picture below. Unfortunately, they are not stamped very deeply, and in harsh winter climates are often illegible after many
years. In some cases, the BOM is also stamped on the outer circumference of the ring gear.
You can check the BOM of any 1979+ axle at Dana's site: http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?cvsp~Deabill~ Part of the Dana expert site at: http://www2.dana.com/expert/
** For a more thorough table of Front Dana 60 BOMs, including all the gear ratios, part numbers, etc. - Click HERE **
Table also includes Dana61 Front axle BOM's.
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The wms, spring pad span, and spring pad width are subject to error and variations. Take with a grain of salt, and please send me corrections / info that you have, as well as info for filling in
the blanks.
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92-93 700 kingpin pass. regular leaf 67.5" internal 35 / 30 32.5" 2.5" piston 6
DRW D-600 & single
85-88 kingpin pass. regular leaf 75.5" external 35 / 30 32.5" 2.5" 6
D-700 piston
dual
Ford 78-79 F250/F350 kingpin drivers reverse leaf 69.25" internal 35 / 30 31.5" 5
piston
about 3.5"
dual more to
85-91.5 F350 kingpin drivers reverse leaf 69.25" internal 35 / 30 36.5" 5
piston drivers side
than 78-79
about 3.5"
dual more to
92-99 F350 balljoint drivers reverse leaf 69.25" internal 35 / 30 36.5" 5
piston drivers side
than 78-79
Identification:
The following pics are of a 1979 Ford F-250 Camper Special High Pinion Dana 60
The 10 bolt diff cover measuring 10.75" x 11.5", 3.125" diameter axle tubes, and kingpin
knuckles identify this as a 79 Ford HPD60
The easiest way to tell a D60 from a D44 is the diameter of the hub. Lug pattern alone
is insufficient as there were 8 lug D44s.
The RCD60 has a high pinion diff - notice how the pinion enters above the centerline of
the axle tubes. On an RCD60 the centerline of the pinion is 1-1/8" above the centerline
of the axle shafts.
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Notice the Chevy pinion is much lower than the RC version. In the reguar cut Dana 60s
the pinion centerline is 1-1/8" below the centerline of the axle shafts.
Dodge D60 with external mounted drive Dodge D60 with external mounted drive
flange. flange, center dust-cap removed.
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Specs:
The following info is true of all front Dana 60s covered by this article.
Weight, fully dressed single wheel front Chevy 60 complete, locking hub to hub 518lbs
Weight, fully dressed single wheel front Ford RC 60 complete, locking hub to hub 460-480lbs
Cover Bolts: 10
** Note: The carrier is the same for all Ford RC 60's UP TO 98, and is the same as the GM/Dodge 4.10 carrier - namely part # 706040X.
BUT - the Ford RC60 was never offered stock with a ratio lower than 4.10 in those years. When aftermarket vendors started making gears lower than 4.10 for RC 60s - they made the ring
gear thick, so it could just go on the stock carrier. So if you bought aftermarket 5.38 gears for RC60 - they would likely be thick. Now - if you buy an aftermarket carrier (i.e. locker, spool,
limited slip) for your RC60 - I imagine, depending on where you buy it from, they ask "year/make/model" and based on that would likely sell you the 4.10 down Detroit - that way - if you
already had aftermarket lower gears, they would just go on the locker. The problem you might run into, is this:. You buy aftermarket gears first - lower than 4.10 and they're thick. Then you
buy a locker by ratio, not make and model, and naturally you'd think "I have 5.13 gears - I must need the 4.56 and up locker" but you get hooped because the gears are thick, and won't go on
that carrier. Also note, The 2000+ RC60 Fords are offered with stock gears as low as 5.38 - but these are not thick to go on the same old 4.10 down carrier - they are thin and go on the same
GM/Dodge 4.56 up carrier. The carrier break is 4.30 and down go on the 4.10 and down carrier. I don't know if Spicer is the only manufacturer offering thin RC60 gears - but the bottom line
is - when dealing with an RC60, you do have to match your carrier and gear set.
To distinguish a 4.10 and down carrier (called a 3-series carrier) from a 4.56 and up carrier (called a 4-series carrier) you need to measure the distance from
the face where the ring gear sits, to the end of the carrier, as shown in the following pic - labelled dimension "A".
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For a 3 series carrier (4.10 and down, Spicer part number 706040X) Dimension A is 2.225"
For a 4 series carrier (4.56 and up Spicer part number 706041X) Dimension A is 2.360"
Inner knuckles (aka tube forks, end forgings, or "Cs") - forged, premium low-carbon mild steel
Differential fluid capacity - 6 pints (3.4 liters) 80w90 hypoid gear lube
Wheel hub hole for 9/16" wheel studs (ford 85-97) - 0.600"
The following parts interchange between Chevy, Ford, and Dodge front kingpin Dana 60s as indicated in the table below in the interchange between column, where C indicates Chevy, F
indicates Ford, and D for Dodge.
The Description column is the name of the part as it is commonly known, and the column Dana s Description is the description of the part according to Dana s web site.
This info can be extremely useful when figuring out what parts can and cannot be used on an axle or custom project. Note, the absence of a part on this list DOES NOT mean it is not the
same / does not interchange it simply means that there was not a Dana part number listed for that part for all 3 manufacturers on Dana s web site. This is usually because either a
manufacturer uses their own part, own part number, or the information is no longer available. For example, the diff cover gasket for a Chevy and Dodge Dana 60 is part number 34687, but
for a Ford it is listed as Ford 60F variable parts table when you look it up on Dana s web site, but I m fairly certain all 3 are the same. The same goes for parts like the diff cover fill plug
and king pin cap grease fitting, which I m pretty sure will all interchange but I can t swear to it. In the same vein, you can use information in the chart to infer facts, even though they are not
presented as such. For example, Dana does not list the same part number for Chevy and Dodge diff covers. However, using the chart we can see that the diff cover gaskets and even the
cover bolts interchange, so from that, and knowing they are both standard cut low pinion Dana 60s, we can pretty safely infer that the covers do interchange.
Other sections of this article lists parts that are commonly know to interchange between axles.
Refer to the diagram below for picture / location of the part. Note, the pic is of a Dodge Dana 60. Click for large view. For an exploded view of the Chevy Dana60 click HERE. For an
exploded view of a Ford Dana60 click HERE: (note, for these 2, the diagram numbers in the pics do not correlate with the table below).
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Huge thanks so Steven J Meyer for providing much of the raw data on his website.
Diagram # Dana / Spicer part number Description Interchange between Dana s Description
003 34643 Front pinion oil slinger CDF SLINGER - PINION BEARING INNER
004 70604x Front pinion bearing and race CDF INNER PINION BEARING KIT
005 706359x Pinion shims CDF KIT - PINION BRG ADJ SHIM
006 708020 D only KIT - DIFF & PINION ADJ SHIM
C & F # 706375X
30982 C&F BAFFLE PINION BEARING
007 706045x Rear pinion bearing and race CDF OUTER PINION BEARING KIT
008 42737 Pinion thrust washer CDF THRUSTWASHER - BEARING
009 42449 Pinion seal CD SEAL - PINION
010 34592 Pinion Yoke slinger CD SLINGER - END YOKE
012 30275 Pinion nut washer CDF WASHER - PINION NUT
013 30271 Pinion nut CDF NUT - PINION
017 34822 Diff cover bolt CDF BOLT - CARRIER COVER (QTY 10
018 34687 Diff cover gasket CD GASKET - CARRIER COVER
020 48632-1 Diff main bearing cap bolt CDF BOLT - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING CA
021 706047x Carrier bearings CDF DIFFERENTIAL BEARING KIT
022 708012 Carrier shims D only KIT - DIFF BRG ADJ SHIM (INC 1
C & F # 706378X
024 30266 Ring gear bolt CD BOLT - DRIVE GEAR (QTY 12)
026 34367 Spider gear CDF PINION
027 34729 Side gear thrust washer CDF THRUST WASHER
028 34730 Spider gear thrust washer CDF THRUST WASHER
029 44810 Roll pin cross pin CDF LOCK - DIFFERENTIAL SHAFT
030 30263 Carrier Cross pin CDF DIFF SHAFT
031 36487 Inner axle seal CD SEAL & GUIDE TUBE
706395x King pin rebuild kit CD KIT - KING PIN PARTS
032 620058 Upper kingpin seal CD SEAL - KING PIN - UPPER
033 37305 Lower kingpin seal CDF RETAINER - GREASE
034 41777 Lower kingpin bearing oil seal CDF SEAL - OIL
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035 706150x Lower kingpin bearing and race CDF KIT - BEARING - KING PIN - L
041 30875 Upper kingpin cap bolt CDF NUT - HEX TAPERED
044 37307 Upper kingpin cap gasket CDF GASKET - KING PIN CAP
044 620132 Upper kingpin cap CDF CAP - KING PIN - UPPER (RH ONL
045 37300 Kingpin spring CDF SPRING - PRESSURE
046 620180 Kingpin spring retainer CDF GEAR
047 41886 Upper kingpin bushing CDF BUSHING - KING PIN
048 37302 Kingpin CDF PIN - KING
051 37879 Spindle stud CD BOLT - HEX
052 37299 Lower kingpin cap CDF CAP - KING PIN BEARING LOWER
053 500357-13 Lower kingpin cap lockwasher CDF LOCKWASHER (KING PIN CAP - LOW
054 500412-13 Lower kingpin cap bolt CDF BOLT - HEX (KING PIN CAP - LOW
056 37308 Stub shaft slinger CD SLINGER
056 700014 Spindle bearing and seal kit CD KIT - SPINDLE
057 620062 Inner spindle seal CD SEAL - NEEDLE BEARING
058 37312 Spindle thrust washer / spacer CD SPACER - WHEEL BEARING SPINDLE
059 37311 Outer spindle seal CD SEAL - OIL
060 620063 Spindle bearing CDF NEEDLE BEARING - SPINDLE
062 36880 Spindle nut CD NUT - BRAKE MOUNTING
063 48816 Hub seal (inner wheel bearing seal) CD SEAL - GREASE
064 706411x Inner wheel bearing and race CDF INNER WHEEL BEARING
065 706074x Outer wheel bearing and race CDF INNER WHEEL BEARING KIT
075 707083X 30 spline drive flange kit CF KIT DIFF PLATE AND DISC (T/L)
Q is the length though the hole, and while not absolutely critical should be close o as to allow proper pinion nut tightening
S is the total "length" of the yoke, and as such, assuming Q is close, will affect driveshaft length slightly
Bold text in the table indicates factory application, according to Drive Train Specialists. Note the differences in max allowable joint angles - may be important / helpful in some applications.
1310 3.219 1.062 2-94-28X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 2.5310 18.0 UB 2-4-3781X 30798 2-4-3771
2-70-18X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 2.9380 18.0 BS 2-4-3801-1X 34592 2-4-3791-1
2-94-28X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 2.9380 18.0 UB 2-4-3801X 34592 2-4-3791
2-70-18X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 2.9380 22.0 BS 2-4-6551-1X 34592 2-4-6541-1
2-70-18X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 2.9964 BS 2-4-8391-1X 34592 2-4-8331-1
1330 3.625 1.062 2-94-28X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 2.9380 20.0 UB 2-4-3671X 230421 2-4-3661
2-94-28X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 2.9690 UB 2-4-4291X 34592 2-4-4031
2-70-18X 1.2760 1.8750 1.7000 3.1880 BS 2-4-8421-1
1330-F 3.625 1.125 2-94-58X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 2.9380 18.5 UB 2-4-8051X 41195 2-4-8041
2-94-58X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 2.9380 20.0 UB 2-4-5311X 34592 2-4-5301
1350 3.625 1.188 3-70-28X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 3.0000 22.5 BS 3-4-12211-1
1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 3.0000 22.5 BS 3-4-5731-1X 34592 3-4-5721-1
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1410 4.188 1.188 3-70-28X 1.2760 1.8740 1.4200 3.1850 22.5 BS 3-4-11891-1X 34592 3-4-11851-1
3-70-28X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 3.1880 22.5 BS 3-4-5711-1X 34592 3-4-5701-1
3-94-18X, 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 3.1880 30.0 UB 3-4-8731
1480 4.188 1.375 3-70-38X 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 3.5000 22.5 BS 3-4-13391-1X 34592 3-4-9531-1
7290 1.125 1.2760 1.8750 1.5000 3.3590 30.0 BS 2-4-7681-1X 34592 2-4-7671-1
Assembly Specifications:
Anything over 5.38 Dana says are for industrial applications only, meaning they are cut for strength, not being quiet.
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As far as I know, nobody makes thick gears for the standard cut D60 front.
Dana Power-lok
Powertrax No-Slip pn 92-0460-3500 (for open carrier) pn 92-0460-3520 (for Trac-lok carrier)
Older stock Dana 60 35 spline inner axles (particularly pre-1980) neck down from 1.5 at the splines to 1.3" in the middle of the shaft.
Later Spicer inner axles (1980+) are 1.500 at the splines. 1.562" at the seal surface, and taper up to 1.625 at the largest diameter. The part numbers are the same for the whole run ('77-
'91), but around '80, they changed to the bigger shafts. (They were gradually phased in over a few years)
In order to upgrade an older "neck down" shaft to the larger models, one need only order the standard stock part number or application, and, assuming your supplier doesn't have any really
old stock, you should get the larger shafts. This is true for all 3 - Chevy, Dodge, and Ford.
This picture illustrates the older neck-down shaft on top, and the
later big axle below. These particular shafts are Dodge Dana 60
shafts.
1978 and later Stock Dana 60 outer 30 spline stub shafts (pn 40955) are 1.3125" at the splines (major diameter) and approximately 1.250" at the shank.
For comparison, A Dana 44 19 spline stub measure 1.155" at the splines and 1.060" at the shank
Spicer 35 Spline stub shafts pn 3-82-871 (originally for D70, but work in GM/Dodge D60 without modification) are 1.5 at the splines and 1.375" at the shank. In order to run the 35 spline
stub shafts in an axle that has Chevy/Dodge knuckles-out with "internal" style hubs, all you have to do is swap in the stub shafts and a 35 spline lockout or drive flange (sources for these
listed later in article). To use them in a Dodge D60 with external hubs, the only trick is sourcing or fabbing a 35 spline external lockout or drive flange (more on these later too). They can
work in a Ford d60 too - more on this later
The 3-82-871 stub axle is used in Dana 70BF front axles assemblies. These axles are the open knuckle style Dana 70 front. The axles are used in very heavy duty light trucks (under 2
1/2ton) such as Ford f550 forestry trucks or rescue and firetrucks. The Dana 70 BF front axle is an "off-highway equipment" axle also used in forklifts, pavers, tow motors, etc. According to
the Spicer catalog/index it was never produced with lockouts. Only the old style closed knuckle 70's had lockouts and they used an external style hub. Warn makes 35 spline lockouts for the
internal style hub...and the external style 35 spline lockout has long been discontinued.
This pic illustrates a Dana 44 19 spline stub shaft (bottom) vs. a Dana 60 30 spline stub
shaft (top)
Dana 60 30 spline stub (right) vs. the Dana 60 35 spline stub (left).
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Dana 60 30 spline stub (left) vs. the Dana 60 35 spline stub (right).
Dana 60 30 spline stub (left) vs. the Dana 60 35 spline stub (right).
Stock 30 spline stub shaft in D60 hub 35 spline stub shaft in D60 hub Stock 30 spline stub shaft in D60 spindle 35 spline stub shaft in D60 spindle
30sp stub in hub.jpg (108936 35sp stub in hub.jpg (101817 30sp stub in spindle.jpg (26351 35spline stub in spindle.jpg
bytes) bytes) bytes) (26077 bytes)
Photo courtesy Shawn Spickler, Off-road.com Photo courtesy Shawn Spickler, Off-road.com Photo courtesy Wolf359 Photo courtesy Wolf359
Manufacturer (oem) Application Spicer part # Length (inches) Spline Diameter Notes
Chevy long side inner 660182-6 35.07 35 1.5"
short side inner 660182-5 17.67 35 1.5"
stub (outer) 40955 12.00 30 1.3"
Dodge (external hubs) long side inner 660182-6 35.07 35 1.5"
short side inner 660182-5 17.67 35 1.5"
stub (outer) 40955 12.00 30 1.3"
Dodge (internal hubs, pre-
long side inner 660182-2 35.20" 35 1.5" (will work in Chevy)
balljoint)
short side inner 660182-1 15.98" 35 1.5" (won't work in Chevy)
stub (outer) 40955 12.00 30 1.3"
Ford long side inner 660182-10 34.56 35 1.5 78-79 F250 and F350
short side inner 660182-11 18.68 35 1.5 78-79 F250 and F350
long side inner 660182-36 36.68 35 1.5
short side inner 660182-1 15.97 35 1.5
stub (outer) 620085 11.40 30 1.3
long side inner 76110-1x 37.13" 35 1.5 2000+ Superduty
short side inner 76110-2x 15.90" 35 1.5 2000+ Superduty
stub (outer) 9.39" 2000+ Superduty
long side inner 76660-2x 36.97" 35 1.5 2000+ Superduty
short side inner 76660-1x 16.17" 35 1.5 2000+ Superduty
stub (outer) 11.4" 2000+ Superduty
long side inner 76150-1x 37.62" 35 1.5 2000+ Superduty
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Moser Engineering make an alloy 35 spline D60 front axle inner or outer, in the Ford or Chevy configuration.
It's made out of the same material as their race axles (1541M, induction hardened) and does not have any taper the full length. They want $395 for the outers a pair and the same for the
inners a pair. They are making them with the option of 30 or 35 spline outers. They are $395 a pair for the inners and the same $395 for a pair of outers. They come with no warranty.
"These virtually indestructible front axles are much stronger than stock, due in part by the induction hardened alloy steel and also the fact the axles are beefed-up considerably around the u-
joint. Designed for use with Spicer #5-332X u-joints, the Moser 60 Front Axles are available in both inner and outer shafts. Inner shafts are available in 35 spline, while the outer shafts are
available in both 30 and 35 spline. The newest Moser Engineering indestructible axles ship in just two-days from the order date. $395 per pair "
These are not aftermarket alloy or chrome-moly axles, but stock Spicer alloy. They are supposed to be developing an aftermarket alloy shaft, but it is not yet available.
Single Pair
New Spicer inner shafts: Dana 60, up to 32" long (5-332x, 1 3/8" U-Joint cap
$160 $295
diameter only)
New Spicer Outer shafts: Dana 60 (Chevy & Ford 30 & 35 spline) $76 $140
The theoretical axle size by spline to percent strength increase, assuming same material, diameter, and heat treat is: 30 spline 35 spline: ~40%
Dana 60 Ujoints are 1480 series - 1 3/8" U-Joint cap diameter, 4.188" across the joint
New Cold Forged joint (Spicer calls these the Spicer Life Series )
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5-88x u-joint is that listed for some stock Dana70 applications. It is the same size as a 1480 series (5-332x), but uses external snap-rings for retention (like a driveshaft ujoint).
5-88x is active
SPL55-4x is active
SPL55-3x is active
5-806-x is active
Are the "new" cold-forged Spicer joints stronger than the old 5-332X?
There have been many widely varied reports on the internet about this, with a lot of figures
around 20% being published. However, I have been unable to get any confirmation of this, or
seen any published numbers in any literature from Dana Spicer. However, if we examine a
pic comparing the old and the new, it seems reasonable to assume at least some marginal
increase in strength, if only due to the cold forging process and smaller grease hole
diameter. Oftem when a front Dana 60 ujoint breaks, it does so at the base of the trunion
where the hole bottom is located. It's quite likely that the smaller hole and supposedly
stronger manufacturing process will net some increase in strength in the shaft of the trunion.
The other option, and likely last word in ultimate D60 ujoint strength are the new 4130 forged ujoints from CTM racing.
Part number is the CTM ujoint for a front Dana 60 axle. Be aware that these u-joints are
designed to use "full-circle" snap rings and so will require a little machining of the ears of the
yokes of stock shafts to allow the snap-rings to fit, or the use of custom D60 front shafts
designed for full circle snap rings.
These ujoints are also much stronger than stock Spicer shaft yokes
Assuming correct match with splines on stub shaft, all will interchange between Ford, Chevy, and Dodge Internal style hubs.
Standard Premium
30 Internal Warn
11690 38826
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30 Internal Spicer discontinued, 81 was the last year for them oem
30 Internal Superwinch 400439 Single hub
30 Internal Milemarker 449 SS Single hub
Single hub Pair of hubs
Unconfirmed, listed as "Flange Mount Hublock 30
30 External Warn
spline"
38428 38370
30 External Superwinch Single hub 400541 Unconfirmed, listed as D70 lockout
30 External Milemarker Selectro Single hub 11034-01
** These do have lock screw on the dial and a positive blocker ring. The blocker ring and set screw are mods specifically for the intended rear axle application. Most rear axles are bent and
this creates a circular motion on the end of the shaft as the axle spins and this circular motion tends to unlock locking hubs by pushing the gear out against the spring pressure. On a front
end, any misalignment is taken up by the spindle bearing fit and the locking hub clearances, plus its got a ujoint between the tube and spindle so the spring pressure on the gear is enough to
keep it engaged. The blocker ring makes a solid stop for the rear hub gear to hit against and keep it from coming unlocked. For a front axle, the blocker ring is not necessary, and neither is
the set screw. The blocker ring makes it difficult to lock the hubs because you have to rock or move the vehicle so the splines line up. Since this is such a pain, we removed the blocker ring
so the hubs work just like normal hubs. The set screw is in there for the same reason, just to keep the dial from rotating and unlocking. Instead of having a "click" when you turn them to lock
or free, there's nothing. The allen wrench and set screw is used to keep the hubs in the selected position. The set screw is also a pain but some guys like the screw since it makes it harder
for someone to mess with the hubs. You can modify the set-screw as follows: Buy the following from a hardware store:
1 short set-screw (about 3/16 inch)
1 spring (smaller in diameter than the set-screw)
1 BB (or small ball bearing)
Replace the Warn set screw with the BB/spring/set-screw combination. You'll have to trim the spring short enough that it allows the BB to slide out of the detent within the hub.
^^ Sources for external style 35 spline drive flanges include Dynatrac, WMS, a fellow on the POR BB by the name of Donovan, or custom made (often from some 35 spline side gears that
are annealed and then welded to a drive plate that has the 8 bolt external bolt pattern drilled in it)
Notes:
- Many folks have reported good success having 30 spline hubs and drive flanges broached for 35 splines.
- Ford oem 30 spline locking hubs are 5 pieces vs. Warn's two pieces (not including snap rings.)
- You can use the dust cover (cap), spacer, snap ring, spring, etc. from a 30 spline drive flange with the 35 spline drive flange.
- Warn 35 spline Premium locking hubs have been bench-tested to failure at 967 ft/lbs
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Knoll Racing
1811 North Ave. 51
Los Angeles, CA. 90042
323-255-3639
After
Dana 60 Front Spindle Nut Socket Napa #775-9025 (I don't know if this is 4 or 6 prong)
GM D60 spring plates Part numbers 370055 and 370056
Pep Boys Motormite U-bolt part # 35661 - measures 5/8" x 8 1/4" x 3 1/8" fit perfectly a leaf spring pack that measures 2 1/2" and there is another 1/2" left on
the bolts.
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* Note: Apparently Six States bought the hub molds from GM & are reproducing them at a local foundry.
Reider racing
For one complete front axle you need four 33732(lock-nut), two
33733 (lock washer), two 33734 (flat washer). These are Dana
patr numbers. All 8 pieces for about $22.00
Parts Mike
Dorman spindle lock nut kit #05303 for an 85 K30 are about $23
each
Note: There are 4 and 6 slot locking nuts available - and they appear to use the same part numbers. Not also the different lock-washer methods, one has the
holes that index onto a pin on the lock nut (4 slot nut style - lower pic). The other has the "bend over" tabs - although they both appear to share the same
Dana part number.
Snap Rings for use with 35 spline stub shafts: Industry #143 or a Dynaline #22950, 1.438" diamater, outer snaps.
Commonly required kingpin rebuild part numbers, exploded diagram, and pics.
Dana Spicer
Diag. # Description Interchanges between
part number
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Referring to the following diagram, D60 front axle spindle / wheel bearings and seals are:
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69 lockwasher 621028
not shown inner axle seal 62510 475960 15527650 D8TZ1175B T2560
The following pics show some of the parts in greater detail, with the numbers from the exploded diagram in blue. Pics courtesy of Shaker.
Spindle bearing and seal kit. D60 spindle locknuts and washer D60 inner axle seal
Earlier version uses a lockring with tabs that bend over the spindle nuts. The later version has a nipple on the inner spindle nut that fits into a lockring and another spindle nut to secure it
(pictured).
NOTE: This section is included because so many people ask about it. It became a popular procedure in the past, since GM was the only source for SRW hubs, at a cost of something like
$1100US A pair. However, now new hubs are available through SixStates for only about $165US each. For that price, that is certainly the best way to convert DRW to SRW axle. The
problem with the "homebrew" machined version illustrated below, is that the small inner tabs on the DRW rotor were never designed to carry the entire weight of the vehicle - only to handle
the rotational force on the brake rotor. I would certainly not recommend this procedure for use on a vehicle that will ever see street duty.
The SRW and DRW front axles are identical EXCEPT for the wheel hub and rotor - same spindle, bearings, and lockout. The DRW wheel hub has a wheel mounting flange mounted on it
about 4-5" from where the SRW wheel would mount. This makes the DRW axle 4-5" wider on each side. This was done to more closely match the width of the DRW rear axle, and to allow
the DRW trucks to carry a single spare tire mounted on the largely dished "budd" style DRW wheel. Also, the rotor is bolted to the DRW hub with 8 9/16-NC bolts inboard of the wheel
mounting flange, in the same position as the SRW hub, allowing the use of the same brakes on either (as opposed to the SRW hub which uses the wheel studs to pin the rotor and hub
together). Because of this, the holes in the DRW rotor are smaller than in the SRW rotor, since the DRW rotor holes need only to clear the 9/16 bolts, as opposed to the SRW rotor holes
which are larger to fit the knurled shoulder of the SRW wheel studs - other than that, the rotors are identical and DRW rotors can be used with SRW hubs if the 8 holes are drilled larger. The
last difference is that between the DRW mounting surface and where the SRW mounting surface would be, the DRW hub 'bulges' - enough so that it will not fit through the center hole in the
stock SRW wheel. Aftermarket wheels may not be an issue if they have larger center holes.
To convert from DRW to SRW you can either swap on a complete SRW front hub/rotor assembly, it is a direct swap or swap on a SRW hub and drill out the holes in the DRW rotor so it can
be re-used.
Alternatively you can convert your front DRW hubs to SRW hubs as follows:
Machine the hub down enough for the wheel center to fit over if required (depends on wheels
used). Not much needs to be removed, and there is plenty of meat there, so it should not
cause a problem.
Re-drill the holes where the rotor bolted to the bearing hub to fit the lug studs. The SRW lug
studs are 9/16 fine thread, and the DRW rotor bolts are 9/16 coarse thread. (Assuming
Chevy) It is impossible to re-tap the internal threads in the DRW hub to fine thread, so the
holes are generally drilled out for press in studs.
Machine the wheel mounting surface of the DRw hub rotor mounting tabs. You need to have
this surface machined flat because it is flame cut and likely not flat. Also, you may want to the
wheel centering ring cut into this surface. If you do, just duplicate the ring from the original
DRW hub outer wheel mounting surface. Some guys do this, some don't. Alternatively, you
could also weld on a custom spacer / wheel mounting surface to the rotor mounting tabs of
the DRW hub.
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Either Drill your DRW rotors out to accept wheel studs, OR buy new SRW rotors. DRW rotors DRW hub before.jpg (58923 bytes)
are much harder to get and way more expensive than SRW rotors. The ONLY difference
between the two rotors is the size of the holes - the DRW ones are made for 9/16 bolts
(.562), the SRW ones are made for wheel studs(~.640). If you have a set of good DRW
rotors, I would drill them out - if you are going to buy new ones, I would just buy the SRW
rotors
Drill the hub holes out to accept the studs. The studs go through the
rotor and spline into the hub. It is very important that the hole be drilled
to the right size for the stud.
You can see in this pic, how once the wheel is bolted on - those little tabs are supporting the
entire weight, and rotational torque/ braking force of the entire front end of the vehicle. Prob.
OK in a light weight trail-only rig - but not recommended for a street driven vehicle.
Again - since the mounted wheel clamps to this custom spacer, once assembled, the entire
weight and rotational force of the front end is supported by those welds. Extreme CAUTION
is required. Not recommended for street vehicle.
A note on studs:
Basically when they list studs, they list the thread and pitch of the studs (i.e.: 9/16-18 or whatever), the length of the stud (which is the length of
the part the lug nuts thread on to), and diameter of the 'knurl', which is the splined part of the stud, and often the length of the knurl (called the
shoulder length).
Dorman part # 610 - 283 is the part number for the STANDARD 1 ton Chevy, it fits 77-91 Chevy trucks. 9/16-18 thread, 2 17/32
long, .650 shoulder, 15/16 shoulder length.
Dorman part # 610 - 303 - fits 77-91 Chevy trucks. 9/16-18 thread, 3 inches long, .678 shoulder, 15/16 shoulder length. It is
identical in most measurements (including thread) to the 610-283, except that it is somewhat longer and has a knurl of .678. In actuality, the ones I measured never mic'd to more than .672.
"If you find that even Dorman 303 is too small, Bicknell Racing Products sells a wheel stud, part number BRP2059, which is 5/8 Course thread, 2.75
inches long, .685 shoulder with a .800 shoulder length. This stud was meant to be used in a hole drilled out to 43/64, which is the exact size of the
hole I used, so this is the stud I ended up using, and I can report that it fits quite nicely into a 43/64 hole. They also sell another wheel stud,
BRP2075, which is exactly the same, but 3.75 inches long. The shorter stud worked fine in my application, but some people may want more stud sticking
out. BRP2051 is the lug nut that matches, but I think any 5/8 course lug nut would work fine."
The important thing here is to select the studs you need to use FIRST, measure the knurl diameter carefully (mic it) and then have the holes drilled slightly undersize for a proper tight
interference fit. Standard class V interference fit (tight - semi-perm. assembly) the interference (shaft bigger than hole) should be between 3 and 18 thou. Given this, and the fact that the
measurement of the knurl will be the major diameter of the splines, I would shoot for a 15 thou undersize hole. Given the measured knurl size of .672, this would mean a hole diameter
of .657. A 21/32 drill bit is .656250, yielding an interference fit of 15.7 thou. That should be just about perfect, but MEASURE TWICE, drill once!
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[Page 1] [Page2]
With mileage and emissions concerns rising, at some point Dodge and / or Ford decided they wanted to be able to offer gears higher than the current highest
ratio of 3.54 available in the D60. However, because of the design of the D60 the pinion head could not be made big enough to achieve a higher ratio. Hence,
the birth of the Dana 61, which has a different casting that moves the pinion over 0.25"-0.437" (conflicting reports) - this allowed for a 3.07 axle ratio. The Dana
61 also uses 3.5" axle tubes. Other than that, it is very similar to the Dana 60. The Dana 61 was common in Dodge front ends and Ford van rears.
The difficulty with the Dana 61 is very limited gear and locker choices. However, you can use a combination of ring gear spacer and thick gear set to allow the
use of differentials and gear sets intended for the Dana 60.
Slagburn reports: to run a 4.88 I had to go with series 3 carrier, series 1 being 4.10 and down, series 2 being 4.56 and up, then the series 3. PLUS a .160"
spacer. That's the problem, nobody makes a full case locker for a 61, but it could be doable with a thick ring gearset AND a spacer.
Reider racing< Randy's R&P, and other sources make ring gear spacers for the Dana 61 .
http://www.reiderracing.com/ringspacer.htm
No. OEM (Dana / Spicer) there are at least 2 different versions, illustrated below. (photos courtesy of RealJeep Man)
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The heavy tube fork was used on the snow plow dodge dana 60
front for several years, it was used on the ford bottom load dana 60
front in '76 and '77. The dana 70 open knuckle front used this same
forging but was bored for the 3.56" tube, the 60 is 3.125 tube. steve
differential eng. inc.
Just for fun - here's a pic of the end forging that Steve Gerstner is
using in a front Dana 80 project - made from 6" plate!!
4x4 lore has it that the Chevy/Dodge knuckles are the strongest, and it is reported that the Ford outer knuckle is thinner around the king pin, and they have been
known to crack and break in that area. This pic illustrates where......but the sharp-eyed reader will notice that, ironically, this pic is of a Chevy knuckle - so
they're obviously not bulletproof either!
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Are there any aftermarket outer knuckle options to address these weaknesses?
There are only 2 sources I am aware of for aftermarket outer-knuckles, illustrated below:
One is WMS,
http://www.wagonermachine.com/knucklepage.htm
Many folks believe the external style lockout hubs that are mounted to the wheel hub with 8 9/16" bolts are weaker than the internal lockouts that are splined to
the wheel hub. This is likely true if the bolts are allowed to loosen, but shouldn't be too much of an issue if they are kept religiously tight - which in itself can be a
PITA and therefore a drawback. Other drawbacks to the external style lockouts are:
- Limited lockout and drive flange availability - both the number of options availability, and the chance of finding them in more remote regions
- The only confirmed "new" external 30 spline lockouts I could find were the Milemarker "Selectro" brand which many have reported are fairly weak
- The only 30 spline external drive flanges available are the OEM / Spicer units which would have to be sourced used or NOS.
- Converting to 35 spline stub shafts with external lockouts is more of a challenge, as there are no 35 spline external lockout hubs, and the only 35 spline
external drive flanges available would be either the rare and long discontinued Spicer D70 parts, or custom made units, although I have hears that WMS and
possibly Dynatrac make them also - both of whom are known for quality but also high prices.
- The external hub sticks out of the wheel hub more, and is therefore more prone to catching on rocks and getting damaged.
- Finally, because of the issues listed above, generally external style hubs are less desirable, and therefore command les re-sale value - though this could of
course be an advantage too.
I took the Dodge spindles to the lathe and turned them into Ford spindles. The Dodge calipers stands and calipers (same as Chevy) line up fine on the Ford
rotors. Basically, you have the pattern. Take the Chevy spindles and use the Ford spindles as your pattern for your lathe work. Base all the measurements off
the inner wheel bearing surface. You're going to move the outer wheel bearing surface in towards the mounting flange about 5/8" and then cut the same amount
(distance) of new threads on the spindle, then cut off the same amount off the end of the spindle.
The Ford stuff is right at 5/8" shorter. Inner bearing and wheel seal surface is/are all the same. The difference is where the outer wheel bearing resides. The
Ford is 5/8" closer to the inner bearing vs. the Dodge/Chevy.
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1'st knock out the old race/cap with a punch from top to bottom. Install the "tin" bearing cap 1'st, then install the bearing race (I use brass punches for this),
install bearing, put bearing cap/seal then slide knuckle back on and insert kingpin from bottom and bolt it in.....done.....pretty simple.
What prices are you guys paying for Front Dana 60 parts / upgrades?
Stock stubs should run about $55 per, U-joints about the same and my inners were about $225 for the pair. All NIB Spicer replacements
I paid $100 for a used set of inners. I then had to pay $35 a piece for U-joints and $65 a piece for the 35 spline stub shafts
I paid $50 for a complete set with worn out u-joints for my Ford front. They are vintage '79
Well, I picked up a pair of inners off eBay last night... used, and only $83 plus shipping for both of them
What is the current market price for a 1979 Ford F350 front Dana 60, complete lockout to lockout, steering included, 3.54
gears?
1250-1500 for one that s usable, 1000 for one that needs rebuilding
Going price from the Salvage yards around here is about $900 to $1200 for a complete front Dana 60 hub to hub. I found a complete 79 F250 with d60s for
$900.
I ve noticed 1500 is the average accepted price for a rc d60. any less is a 'deal' any more it better be in awesome shape. The Chevy/Dodge d60's fronts are
definitely going for less.
When I was looking for one all the junkyards wanted $1500-2000 for a complete RC D60. Ball-joint or King-pin price didn't really seem to change. I found one
for $1000 and happily jumped on the deal.
When I was looking I found a number of 79 Ford D60s right at $1000. I wouldn't pay anymore than $1100, you know you're gonna have to rebuild it. I've seen
them for less and more. It all depends on how patient you are and how far you're willing to drive to get it
In my junkyard searches I have found late model Ford D60 fronts range from 600-850. 900-1250 is the range for the '79 RC Kingpin model
I paid $700 for mine but it was missing the calipers and one lockout. Going price is in the $1200 - 1500 range at yards. Anything under a $1000 is a deal in my
opinion.
Who has the lowest price for 35 spline Dana 60 stub axles?
Saw two sets yesterday on e bay. they were in the 100 to 200 hundred range
I got my spares from ORD. Stock Spicer units for $78 each IIRC
Randy's: 66.80
Reider's 67.00
TOR: 76.00
In 18 years on an RC Ford 60 I have broken 3 steering knuckles,1 inner long side, 3 stock stubs,1 ring&pinion, 4 yokes on 300M 35 spline stubs, 20 sets of
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wheel bearings, and 3 spindles. Also stripped splines in rotor. Also a couple sets of Spicer hub gears.
I was twisting off the splines on my 30 spline stubs and just upgraded to 35 splines.
I shattered one cryoed 30 spline stub axle in an ARCA comp and a 35 spline inner at the yoke first run out with 35 outers in a situation that would have broken
just about anything. All in 2 years
The front HP 60 I haven't had in that long. I have broken one lockout.
I have a friend that has busted 3 30 spline stubs in the front and 2 35 spline rear axles.
A good friend of mine has been taking out 2-3 stock stub axles, 2 inner, every year now.
Every time I saw the stub axle break it always killed the lockout on the way out.
2 steering knuckles, & a couple weeks ago I took out a stub, spindle & hub.
From my experience tack welding full snap rings or welding the cap completely as you have thought of already really seem to have very little benefit if any with
the 60 front joints. I have broken several joints (spicer 5-332x joints) which also ruined the ears on the axleshafts in the form of stretching them, completely
tearing them off or breaking the side of them. Actually I had one joint explode the inner and outer ears without ripping them off so much that it wedged the
innershaft into the outer axle and would still pull. In the end the trunion is what I have always broke at the base of the cross which then destroyed the ears. I
have tried all the above options and still broke them in the same place. If you run the CTM joint the ears will shear right off and eject the joint out of the knuckle.
Do the Ford kingpin knuckles for the '86 to '92 (or about there) D-60's interchange with the '78-'79 Ford HP D-60?
Ford Dana 60 knuckles, from 1985 to 1991 will fit, but the taper for the tie rod is the next size smaller.
What components do I need to change a stock 30 spline Ford Dana 60 king pin front (circa 1978) to 35 spline stub shafts?
You can use Dodge or GM knuckles out. The GM / Dodge spindles are longer which is what you need to fit the 35 spline stubs. I haven t seen it done but I
have heard about guys using the 35 spline stubs and just cutting them down. This might work but it doesn t leave much spline contact for your lockout. You
could also machine a spacer that spaces the spindle out from the knuckle.
Knuckles out. Chevy King-pin. You get Chevy knuckle/spindle/hub/caliper/brakes and it is a bolt on swap. You have to re-drill the GM spindle pattern to match
the Ford knuckle if you use just the GM spindles and not the knuckles.
Wagoner Machine Shop and Dynatrac sell 35 spline outer stub shafts for the Ford D60.
Differential Engineering in FL. sell a Ford 35 spline outer kit. It comes with the Warn lockouts and shafts for $475. The kit also uses Spicer Chevy length 35
spline outers. To make up for the different length of the outers, they cut .600" the end of the shaft, re-cut the snap-ting groove, and relieve the splines at the end.
Then the inner bearing race is replaced with part number 382S that spaces the hub and rotor out aprox. 1/8". The 382s is the Timken number for the Dana60
carrier bearing race. If you need an application to quote to the counter-man, you can go to www.timkeninfo.com and search for 382s and you will end up with
265 pages of applications!
Here's a pic, courtesy of Jeepin_NC of the 2 races side by side. 382s on the left, 382a on the right.
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The Ford stub axle, hub and spindle are .600" shorter than the Chevy. If you do cut it down then I don't know if you will run out of spline before the slug bottoms
out or if it is enough engagement to be a real upgrade. One other problem with cutting off the end is loosing the snap ring groove that holds the V-seal up tight
against the back side of the spindle to keep out most of the water.
On this stub modification, we have be doing this for five years, remove .600 from the end and re-cut snap ring groove and relieve the spline at the end for the
gear to slip past a little. This stubs and locking hubs have be through hell, 8,000 lbs. tug of war on concrete, 50.000 lbs. sled pull's. "U" joint failures but not at
the stub shaft. Steve, Differential Eng. inc.
I will second what Steve said...we have done it that way also, with equally great results. Wheelers/truck pullers here have been doing that for a long time and
never an issue or failure caused by the modification that I have seen.
Note: Whichever method you choose, you will need to run 35 spline drive flanges or lockout hub - see chart above for details.
On the Dana front the snap ring is very important on the stub axle. The stub must be retained from end play, it keeps the dust boot pulled up to keep the mud
and water out and protect the thrust washer. The axle can not move back, if it dose the "U" joint will be out of alignment with the upper and lower joint of the
steering knuckle, this alignment must be maintained when the steering knuckle is turned with the axle turning. Steve, Differential Eng. Inc.
I have found that NOT running a snap ring causes less than great seal/spindle relationship *the butterfly seal* and in some axles I think it allows the shaft to walk
out and that seems to have an ill effect on some brand lockouts. I know I have also run the Dana 60 without clip with drive slugs and have had good success.
But I still prefer using the snap rings.
What are the pros and cons for upgrading to 35 spline outer stub shaft for a Dana60?
I went to the 35 spline when I upgraded tire size to 42's! I was not worried when I only had 38's but I would not even think about anything other than 35 spline
with any larger tires. The lockout should go first but I have not had a failure yet! If you are running a GM 60 all you have to do is buy 2 Dana 70 stubs and the
lockouts. Cheap, like $65 per stub and $210 or so for the lockouts.
If you are running the 35 spline outers with newer "big style" inners which don't taper down then usually the lock out will be the weak link (a fairly weak link at
that). If you have those old taper down style inners then they will break before the joint; but, may not go before the lockout. The best set-up for myself is to run
drive flanges with 35 spline outers combined with the "big style" inners that don't taper down. Then the u-joint is the weak link and breaks are much farther apart.
I have busted a few of the u-joints while running 35 spline outers with horsepower and 44 inch tires.
The Dynatrac caliper bracket is of nearly no use to you. it is only good for the small 5/6 lug rotor the 8 lug rotors are a bigger od, and that bracket won't allow
clearance for the caliper "pins" to clear the rotor.
What you can do, (I did) is use the 60 caliper bracket where it goes over the spindle, and graft it to a Chevy 1/2 ton bracket to hold the smaller caliper, spaced
exactly where you want it. i.e. only use the bolt pattern from the 1ton and only use the caliper retaining area from the 1/2 ton. custom built in your garage!
You might want to check with JB's 4x4. He did my axles and he is making a bracket that will bolt to a 60 and allow you to use 78' Chevy 3/4 ton brake calipers
and rotors. I clear 15" wheels. Here is a pic.
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On a Ford 60 front all the Dana 44 stuff from a Ford will bolt onto the Ford 60.
You will have to machine your wheel hubs outside to 4.200 or whatever your i.d. of your wheels are and the backside of your hubs for the i.d. of your rotors, then
re-drill the bolt pattern of the hub.
What s the difference between Dana 60 front SRW and DRW brakes?
Caliper brackets are the same. Rotors are too with the exception that the SRW wheel rotors have a larger hole in them for the lug studs' shoulder. Drill them to
match and they will be identical.
Some people made a tool with 7/8" nuts welded to a bolt to remove the kingpin. I tried this twice, broke the bolt the first time, and a 1/2" breaker bar the second
time. I know there is a special tool for this, but don't have a clue where to get one at.
King pin removal the farmer way. Drag torch to project...cut 1/3 of king pin away forming a flat side, grab 3ft long pipe wrench...remove king pin....have a beer.
If you're set on removing it, I've heard that it's often necessary to apply LOTS of heat to the knuckle with a rosebud. If this doesn t work, another remedy I've
heard of is drilling a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the king pin screw, and then filling the hole with weld. This will get the screw VERY hot.
Okay, I'm sure one of those ways will remove the pin...but what about installing it. Book calls for 500-600 ft/lbs.
I just bought a 7/8" allen wrench from Potomac Steel in Springfield, VA for $25. it is hardened and wont break like the nut and bolt trick. The allen wrench I
bought is made by Chesco, it is made in the USA and is better than a foot long. Add a breaker bar and a little heat and no way the king pin will stay put.
Here's the "special tool" that I use (several times a month for quite a few years now). Get a long (approx. 2") acorn style lug nut for a 1/2" wheel stud that fits a
7/8" socket, slip it in the king pin and slip a socket over it. Put a lot of pressure on it and smack the axle with a brass hammer right next to the threads a few
times, pops them loose every time for me without heat.
Note: This one of those topics that get a LOT of different opinions and info on. I think it's because it has a lot to do with not only exactly what type of brakes and
calipers are used and how much backspacing (bs) the wheel has, but also the design profile of the rim, so even 2 rigs with the same brakes and bs may require
different amounts of grinding on the calipers.
I run 15x10 wheels, with 3" bs. and 3/4 ton 8 lug rotors both front and rear. Just a little clearance grinding on the caliper is all you need.
I've got a D60 front that I just put 15x8 8 lug wheels with 4" back spacing on. I had to take the front 3" of the outer caliper radius down about 1/8" to get them on.
Took about an hour and 25% of a 4.5" medium grinding wheel.
I am running a front D60 with 15"...my back spacing is 3 1/4 and had to grind a little but wasn t that hard...maybe 20 mins of grinding on each side..
I have Ford Dual Piston calipers and run 15x10 3 inch backspacing with minimal grinding
I recently bought a D60 from an F250 plow truck (79 I think). It has two piston calipers had 16.5" wheels. I want to run 15 wheels w/ 3.5" backspacing. the way
these calipers/pads are there is no way to grind enough to fit these wheels. Is there a caliper that will bolt up (single piston is ok) or am I going to have to fab
some mounts?
If you don t mind running a 2.5 backspacing 15's will fit with little or no grinding on the dual piston calipers
You can grind Chevy calipers and fit 15 inch wheels. The D60 front calipers and brackets are very beefy. the material removed is not going to pose a problem in
the safety dept. In fact what you have after you grind has way more material left than the 1/2tons stuff ever thought about having. How much you grind depends
on what offset wheels you run
Steel beadlocks 3 inch backspacing and mine fits over 8 lug 92 F350 rotor's and calipers with a little grinding to the outside . When I say "little", I put the wheel
on then spun it, heard the rubbing then pulled the wheel and broke out the grinder and shaved a little using a sanding disc to the metal backing of the brake pad
that came outside the caliper. 1 min later bolted the wheel back on and spun. No rubbing! Went to the other side and did the same.
I spent 2.5 hours today grinding my d60 calipers to fit my new beadlocks! And I only got one side done!!!!! This is crazy! My question is, how much space do I
need for the wheel. Right now I have very little, but the wheel doesn't scrape anywhere. Is getting a pebble caught between the caliper and the wheels and
destroying my wheel a real danger? Just following up with some pic like someone asked for. Here is one side almost finished. I had to do a little more grinding
after this, but not much. As you can see, I had to grind A LOT! Both sides look like the pics below.
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I have less than a 1/16" clearance and have had no trouble at all. I Ground mine for the same reason. I say there is no danger at all with running little clearance.
In fact, since I did not want to grind any more than I had to one of the wheels even rubbed a little and still no trouble. Go with it
My 15's with 2.5" backspacing fit on my RC D60 out of a 92 F350 with NO grinding at all.
I have about 3.5 back spacing and didn t have to grind much at all...maybe 10 mins on each side..
I have the Ford dual piston calipers. I used the calipers from an '82 front instead of '79 (the year of my axle) because they are designed different and there is a
lot less to grind luckily someone told me this.) With these '82 Ford calipers there really isn't that much to grind, it just takes time to find the spots where it's
touching and rubbing. Now that I have one done I think I can probably do the other side in about 10 minutes. The '79 has a large lip/edge along the whole outer
part of the caliper. the '82 calipers I bought do not have this lip. It is only raised at the ends and that receives a bit of grinding to fit. These calipers can be seen
on TTB Fords with dual piston calipers. . I was originally told about this switch by Steve at "Differential Engineering" in Winter Haven, FL
I went to the store today and compared an 82' Dana 60 caliper to my 79' calipers. my question is how do you fit the 82's on the 79' caliper bracket? I noticed
they were the right size to fit the slide groves but there were some cast nipples on the 82' that would not allow the caliper to fit. do you need to grind these down
and what other issues would I run into putting these on my 79'
I think Ford used 3 different mounting setups for the twin piston calipers. One uses the little wedges that are held on with a bolt 78/79 and maybe a few years in
the 80's. Mines a 92 and uses little wedges with rubber in the center, and then the newest style that is held on with 2 bolts.
I've got 4" of BS and I ground it just enough to clear. It is very close. No problems yet...Here s my article:
http://www.members.cox.net/russhuffman/grinding/calipers.html
'79 Ford RC Dana 60 with 79 Ford dual piston calipers, 2.5"backspacing and very little grinding. Most of the grinding was on the pads and only used a soft wheel
on the calipers. About 1/8" space between the wheel and the caliper. No problems thus far with anything getting trapped.
GM calipers, 4" backspacing. First side took about 2hrs... Second side took 30 minutes. I used a cut-off wheel on the grinder, and just chop-chopped the hell out
of it, cleaned up with a grinding wheel. They were still rubbing, but they'll self-clearance
Ford (dual piston) calipers require much more grinding than GM. In fact, most people do not consider them a potential for 15" wheels unless you run VERY
small backspacing.
The way most people do this is to use the D60 hubs and turn them down to fit through the 5 lug rims, turn the backsides down to fit the 5 lug rotors, and then re-
drill the flanges. Then you just have to make a caliper bracket to fit (see 3/4 ton brake conversion above).
I converted a D60 over to 5 on 5.5 this fall. I used a mix of Dana 60 parts and Dana 44 parts to get it done. All parts are Ford 1979 Dana 60, Ford half ton, or
Chevy half ton.
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I did the same conversion to 5 lug on my Hybrid Dana6/Ford9" front. Some pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albu...=1&showall=true
I used a 60 hub, re-drilled. 1 hole is almost 1/2 way into one of the old 8 lug locations. I tack welded the stud to keep it straight. OD of the hub turned down, back
side of the hub matched to F150 rotors. I had a local metal shop flame cut the caliper brackets from 3/8" plate (7/16 would be better). I had a tracing of
Dynatrac's bracket. Transferred the spindle bolt pattern. I used GM / FSJ 2 bolt calipers. A little grinding on the knuckle, and slid them out 1/8" or so for more
knuckle clearance. No problem with 15" wheels. Took a lot of figuring and measuring, but came out great and pretty cheap. I have a good connection for
machine work, but really nothing too sophisticated. BTW, Sunray will do this conversion with your parts. $800
Another method is a Chevy 60 knuckle, a 60 outer shaft, a Chevy 44 spindle, a 1/2" thick spacer/adaptor to bolt to the 60 knuckle and bolt the spindle to, then
you use a 44 hub, rotor, backing plate, and caliper, and a lockout can be bought from Warn, its the one they are using in their rear full float conversions, same
30 spline as the 60 shaft, and fits in the 44 hub. They are running no spindle bearings, you do end up trimming a little off the spline end of the outer shaft, cause
its to long, but it all goes together, and the only thing the people running it have broken is a hub.
I've heard of this set-up before, never seen it though. Talked extensively with a guy in WA that makes a kit like that but wants $900 for it!! What he does is make
a spacer, bore out a big bearing D44 spindle till the bearing fits, adapts D60 lockout hub internals into a D44 lock-out. Not sure if that s the right way to do it but
that s what he told me!
You guys think that this would work with a 6 on 5.5" BP too?
I don't see why not, you just re-drill the hub to 6 on 5.5, and use a 6 lug 3/4 ton Chevy rotor. also the hole in the center of the Chevy rotor is bigger, so the hub
backside may not need to be turned down, or not as much .
The Big Three (Ford, GM, Dodge) are the same 8 on 6.5" until the new Ford super duties. The all used different size studs depending on year and application,
they may be 1/2", 9/16", 5/8".
1999-newer Ford Super Duties are 8x170mm hole spacing with 14x2 metric lug bolts/nuts
As for the wheels themselves, on mid 80's thru mid 90's, a Chevy wheel has a smaller center-hole in the rim. So, the Chevy rim will not interchange between
Dodge and Chevy. A Ford has a slightly larger center-hole, so a Ford rim will fit everything, but the Chevy rim will NOT fit on a Ford axle. I think Dodge is the
same as Chevy.
Dodge and Ford rims have the bigger holes to fit over the rear Dana axles, where the Chevy rim hole is smaller since the GM 14Bolt rear axle hub is smaller in
dia.
If this is a Ford Super Duty style 50 they are ball joint, they use the 60 size ujoints, they have a 9" ring gear so 44 stuff does not work, and they do have the 8 on
170mm pattern so you would need to change that to 6.5" if you wanted to use some wheels you might already have. The have gears for them up to 4.88 at this
time but the locker choices are slim still.
This is one of those 'ask 100 people, get 100 different opinions" kind of questions. I'll leave it to you to sort through it and decide what you think is best.
Personally, all my side and spider gears are welded to each other and the carrier.
Gears to gears and gears to carrier is the way I have seen hold. if you just weld the side gears and spider gears together all your force is on the pin. this may be
ok on big axles like d60's, 70's, 14 bolt's, etc. but the pin can break when it is done like this on smaller axles.
I like to get some real beef in there. In the old days (before Everybody had a MIG) we would throw some nuts and bolts in the weld area and burn them in for
additional filler. I prefer not to weld to the casting of the carrier, but I know people who have done it without problems.
If you have a DANA axle...weld the piss outta it...the new carriers are about $50-$75 new. The 14bolt carrier remains even if you buy a locker and they are $250
new...this is why people are only welding the spiders on the 14bolt. Just in case they go locker later....
The first time I helped a buddy weld one up, we welded it to the carrier and ended up having to reset the gears cuz the carrier musta expanded or something.
Well I can show you a way that has been tried and tested on front 44s and for 60s or any thing that you don't have to go in and pop out c-clips. Weld spiders to
sides and sides to spiders on both sides and then take a rectangle piece of metal 3/8 thick or even thicker and drop it in on both sides and then weld it all the
way around. Never has caused problems as of yet! 6 years going on 7.
Everyone I've seen welded (we're poor up here in the hills so that's a lot) we just weld the side gears to the carrier and then fill between the spiders and side
gears where they mesh. helps to heat (to get the gear oil out) then sand blast then clean really well before.
Just weld the spiders to the case and also to each other. Start as far in as ya can then work your way out. it'll work fine. no need for high tensile or heating it up.
Use a MIG so you can get further in to start, and weld everywhere they make contact. I've hammered mine hard and still no cracks.
Take the ring gear off clean the carrier with brake parts cleaner or something similar. let it dry then lay down some type of welding prep spray to minimize
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splatter be sure to weld it HOT but not to the point it distorts the splines on the inside
I think the best way to do it is to just weld the spider gears together it doesn't matter if the welds crack the spider gears won't spin, this way you don't weaken the
carrier which is the part that breaks. The carrier is cast steel and you will weaken it by welding on it unless you do a stress relief after. As far as spatter goes I
think 7018 leaves a lot less spatter than MIG, so with what I have in my garage I would use that. If I had easy access to a TIG and didn't pay for the argon I
would use that. It is a bad idea to weld it in the vehicle but it is a much worse idea to weld it in the vehicle with the ground clamp attached to the housing so that
the current has to be conducted through the bearings so clamp it to a ring gear bolt or something. And like most everyone has mentioned cleanliness is next to
godliness when it comes to welding.
Got about 10 years on mine....daily driver. Most of the Lincolns that I've seen break were not welded to the case. In my opinion welding to the case makes the
unit stronger as a whole. Just doing the spider gears puts all your faith into the x-pin. No different than a mini spool.
I bathed the diff in solvent, and then heated it with a torch to burn off the residual oil. I used the TIG some, it worked fine but an awfully small bead, so I decided
to try the MIG, and it worked fine BUT right after I welded where the side gears engage the spider gears each weld had a crack?
What am I doing wrong? I routed out the cracks ( they weren't deep) and Fused them back together with the TIG, but my confidence is gone now until I figure
out what I was doing wrong or what was set wrong with the machine - a big Miller power source with a wire feeder mounted on top of it, using 308 stainless wire,
maybe I should change to mild steel wire?
any ideas appreciated
I have MIG welded stainless to mild steel and had it crack just like you are saying. use some regular mild steel wire. or just TIG it up completely with some mild
steel rod.
I used 308 stainless to arc weld my diff with no preheat and it did not crack when I welded it. I just took it out after a summer of mud bogs and there are still no
cracks anywhere.
Try to make the beads convex, concave beads are more likely to crack, also if you can lay a wider bead with a little less penetration the bead is less likely to
crack, especially below the surface. Also watch the interpass temperature.
I welded my rear diff last week for the jambo. Held up through the jambo, but when I pulled my diff cover off to fix a hole, I saw that all my welds had broken. I
cleaned out the chunks and put it back together. Still locked up for a day or two, but now I am back to an open diff. That is the reason you get a spool over
welding. I used too big of a rod and too much heat and I melted the gears instead of welding them. I am going to try it again with 6011 rod. It seems to work
much better.
What kind of rod did you use the first time? I'd use 7018 since its a 70,000 PSI rod instead of 60,000 PSI. It sounds like what you are saying is that if you get
them welded good they are just as good as a spool?
I welded mine about a month ago. I just laid weld every where. I used 7018. it hasn't broke yet. I peeled out on the dry pavement and it hasn't broke yet.
I welded mine (front) with 7018 and Jack A's rear with a Millermatic 210. I also welded the side gears to the carrier, and multiple passes on everything. I've got
almost a year of hard wheelin' on mine and about a month on Jack's. I've gone through 4 Birf's and it's still good.
Isn't 7018 (mild steel) the wrong type of metal to be using on gears (high carbon steel)? would something like nickel rod with a little more give to it work better, or
maybe stainless? and no, I'm not an experienced welder by far,
My method is to clean very well, pre-heat, 7018, multiple passes, just weld the gears. I have probably done 10 rear ends this way ( clean very well, pre-heat,
7018, multiple passes, just weld the gears) and to my knowledge none have failed. Lo Hi is made for welding high carbon steel without cracking. 6011 is a very
poor choice for high carbon steel.
I have a taco rear in my '85 that I welded... used the 7018. I have a v8 and run it hard, 3rd gear burnouts etc... it has to double as my muscle car.
I used 210 miller MIG and it worked great. I didn't even cover the splines and it was fine. If I did it again I would have put a stick in the spines and taken off the
ring gear. Just used a screw driver and popped the splatter off. Otherwise it is one piece now.
Use 6011 rods, ~90 amps and go to town. Cover them up with 6013 and grind them down clean. DO a few passes. Simple.
I use E7018
I have been told to use 308 stainless. I have welded three diffs with it now and it has worked. The stainless rod is used because it is less likely to crack. I have
tried 7018 also and I know it works too. I had a friend (professional welder for 7 yrs) weld one diff for me with 7018 and when I took it out months later the welds
had cracks in them. Also, I have been able to weld with stainless without preheating and not have the welds crack when it cools
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Sunray Engineering 60
Here's some info and pics from Sunray Engineering on their "Sun 60" axle upgrade. Contact them for details. I think it looks very cool. The pics are all theirs,
the words are all theirs except the last line in orange which is mine.
The 1 ton front ends have shown to be one of the most popular swaps for hard core wheelers. The Dana 60 and our 1 ton 609 both use a 1480 series u-joint.
One of the major down falls of the front axle and stub shafts is the ear design. This design allows for flex and deformation inside the ear which lets the u-joint
cap turn and eventually fail. The Sun 60 axle shaft set up is designed to defeat these stresses and virtually eliminate breakage.
The axle shafts are made from 4340 and are double 35 splined. The spindle is also custom to
allow extra clearance for the yoke.
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Here's a pic of the stock D60 yoke on the right, and the Sun60 yoke on the left.
**INNER AXLE IS FULL DIAMETER OTHER LENGTHS AVAILABLE - MEASURED FROM CENTER OF U-JOINT TO END OF SPLINE
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PG60D/PLCAH35ABS DANA 60 35 SPLINE POWER LOC 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER W/ABS PRECISION GEAR 526.53
ARBRD43 DANA 60 35 SPLINE SEMI FLOAT 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER AIR LOCKER ARB 743.12
PG60D/PLCAH35 DANA 60 35 SPLINE POWER LOC 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER NON-ABS PRECISION GEAR 486.54
PG60D/PLCAL35ABS DANA 60 35 SPLINE POWER LOC 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER W/ABS PRECISION GEAR 526.53
PG60D/PLCAL35 DANA 60 35 SPLINE POWER LOC 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER NON-ABS PRECISION GEAR 486.54
PTX95-0460-3500 DANA 60 35 SPLINE FITS OPEN DIFF POWER TRAXX
ARBRD36 DANA 60 35 SPLINE 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER AIR LOCKER ARB 743.12
SP707097-4X DANA 60 35 SPLINE TRACK LOC 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER SPICER 377.7
LR2620 DANA 60 35 SPLINE 'I PIECE CASE LOC RITE
PTX95-0460-3520 DANA 60 35 SPLINE FITS TRAC-LOC DIFFERENTIAL POWER TRAXX
SED-1548 DANA 60 35 SPLINE SPOOL 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER STRANGE 262.8
TT225S-29A DANA 60 35 SPLINE 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER DETROIT LOCKER DYNEER 525.46
AU544821 DANA 60 35 SPLINE 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER POSI AUBURN 187.45
ARBRD35 DANA 60 35 SPLINE 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER AIR LOCKER ARB 743.12
SED-1547 DANA 60 35 SPLINE SPOOL 4.30 NUMERICALLY LOWER STRANGE 262.8
TT225S-29B DANA 60 35 SPLINE 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER DETROIT LOCKER DYNEER 525.46
ARBRD95 DANA 60 32 SPLINE FULL FLOAT 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER AIR LOCKER ARB 743.12
MG097035 DANA 60 35 SPLINE TRAC LOC POSI MOTIVE GEAR 342
ARBRD96 DANA 60 32 SPLINE FULL FLOAT 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER AIR LOCKER ARB 743.12
PTX95-0460-3220 DANA 60 32 SPLINE FITS TRAC-LOC DIFFERENTIAL POWER TRAXX
PTX95-0460-3200 DANA 60 32 SPLINE FITS OPEN DIFFERENTIAL POWER TRAXX
SP74951X DANA 60 32 SPLINE TRAC LOCK 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER MACHINED FOR C-CLIP SPICER 344
SP708013 DANA 60 30 SPLINE 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER SPICER 345.02
PG60D/PLCAH30ABS DANA 60 30 SPLINE POWER LOCK 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER W/ABS PRECISION GEAR 546.53
PG60D/PLCAH30 DANA 60 30 SPLINE POWER LOCK 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER NON-ABS PRECISION GEAR 499.87
PG60D/PLCAL30ABS DANA 60 30 SPLINE POWER LOCK 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER W/ABS PRECISION GEAR 546.53
PG60D/PLCAL30 DANA 60 30 SPLINE POWER LOCK 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER NON-ABS PRECISION GEAR 499.87
PTX95-0460-3020 DANA 60 30 SPLINE NON C-CLIP FITS TRAC-LOC DIFFERENTIAL POWER TRAXX
PTX95-0460-3000 DANA 60 30 SPLINE NON C-CLIP FITS OPEN DIFFERENTIAL POWER TRAXX
PTX95-0460-3025 DANA 60 30 SPLINE C-CLIP FITS TRAC-LOC DIFFERENTIAL POWER TRAXX
PTX95-0460-3005 DANA 60 30 SPLINE C-CLIP FITS OPEN DIFFERENTIAL POWER TRAXX
SP707097X DANA 60 30 SPLINE 4.56-UP SPICER 369.94
SP24607X DANA 60 30 SPLINE 4.10 DN P/L SPICER 630
LR2610 DANA 60 30 SPLINE I PIECE CASE LOC RITE
TT225S-19A DANA 60 30 SPLINE 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER DETROIT LOCKER DYNEER 525.46
ARBRD21 DANA 60 30 SPLINE 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER AIR LOCKER ARB 686.49
TT225S-19B DANA 60 30 SPLINE 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER DETROIT LOCKER DYNEER 525.46
ARBRD22 DANA 60 30 SPLINE 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER AIR LOCKER ARB 686.49
TT225S-12A DANA 60 16 SPLINE 4.56 NUMERICALLY HIGHER DETROIT LOCKER DYNEER 519.35
TT225S-12C DANA 60 16 SPLINE 4.10 NUMERICALLY LOWER DETROIT LOCKER DYNEER 519.35
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