Youth 2000
R I S C International
June 1999
Summary
1 The millenium generation
2 Changing youth
3 Youth Values
4 Youth and clothes
5 Five international youth
“tribes”
6 Marketing to the youth
REM: graphs refer to 12’500 inter-
views in the 5 major European coun-
tries (Britain, France, Germany, Italy
and Spain) and 3000 interviews in
the US. Results for people aged 15-
24 are based on 2790 interviews
(18% of the sample)
©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only
1. THE MILLENNIUM GENERATION
Youth revival
After more than one decade of
“generation X” in the US, and high
unemployment in Europe, the 15- 1
24 age group has began in 98 to
assert a cultural leadership, ex-
pressing in RISC sociocultural sur-
veys more appetite for life, a greater
confidence in the future and a
stronger eagerness to explore the
world, than any other generation.
Young women, more than young
men, lead this revival.
Demographic blues but global cultural boom for the youth
Demographic trends clearly do not favour the young, especially in Eu-
rope (fig1). However, sixty percent of women from the millenium genera-
tion say that they cannot envision their life without having children,
which, for demographers, is good news. Furthermore, in our ageing soci-
eties still in search of performance, body perfection and unlimited pleas-
ures, youth is highly aspirational. Whatever their number, youth will there-
fore go on influencing our cultural and social models, including clothing
and fashion. Last but not least, American and European export markets
2
in emerging countries, in Asia or Latin America where most of the adult
population is under 35, will go on being led by the young for the next
decade.
15-24, in % of total population
25
15
5
50
60
70
80
90
00
10
19
19
19
19
19
20
20
Europe USA
1
Convergence between countries, fragmentation within countries
The globalisation of the entertainment culture (sports,
music, TV shows and even fast food) has obviously
fostered the convergence of youth values across devel-
oped markets. The main driver of convergence in Eu-
rope, however, is the widespread prolongation of stud-
ies up to the age of 25 and the postponing of age of
marriage after 28. School and universities create com-
mon interests and references, while cultural differences
appear at the work place and during the setting up of
the family. As more than 75% of the 15-24 (50% in
1975) live with their parents in most countries, the
millennium youth have a weak generational identity
and tend to be nearly as socioculturally fragmented as
the households they live in. Three constants exist how-
ever: pleasure, openness, a positive vision of life. There
are currently 50 million 15-24 in Europe (15
countries) and 36 million in North America.

2 ©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only

2. CHANGING YOUTH
From protest to playfulness
Once active in protest or struck by economic worries, European youth is
now unleashing their energy in a playful exploration of the world. There-
fore the body is the centre the youth universe. Trends in dance are influ-
encing music trends (ex: Hip-Hop). In Europe, this means a playful
rejuvenation of the fashion world (fig1). In the US, where economic wor-
ries disappeared a decade ago, this means less need for social integra-
tion and more “free-style” personal expression.

From aimlessness to a quest for both meaning and well-

being
The new youth is daring and ambitious, but its real concern is itself.
“Spending time on taking care of oneself in order to feel good” is a new
motto of the youth on both sides of the Atlantic. Finding a sense of bal-
ance and personal unity in a hectic, fragmented and fast changing envi-
ronment (fig2) is a challenge for a generation in search of new refer-
ences, hence the growing interest of the youngest for the supernatural,
magic and alternative spiritualities, especially in the UK.

From backpack travel to a global popular culture …expe-

A pp eara nce and fa shio n 1
60 rienced at home
Travel and cultural openness have always characterised youth, espe-
50 cially in Europe, but the 15-24 have never been exposed at home to
such a variety of cultural models, from London fashion to Cuban music,
from Japanese Sushi to L.A. TV series. American youth is once again
40
95 96 97 98
open to first-hand foreign influences (fig3).
Europea ns 15-24

From ”ecology” to “ego-logy”

I want to improve my emotional, 2
physical and mental well-being
35 In Europe, the “green” movement, as a collective ideology, is receding
(fig4), especially in the US and in Germany where it was born in the
30
70’s . In the US, the reference to nature is still developing among the
young, in relation to naturalistic and biological explanations of personal
well-being and in support of the success of organic food, untreated fi-
25 bres and other bio-products (“ego-logy”). Interest for technology is still
94 95 96 97 98
gaining ground in Europe while becoming just a fact of life in the US. All
Europeans 15-24
in all, there will be a convergence among the young towards a renewed
vision of technology, a clear focus on personal benefits, and interest in
natural effects. For the youth nature means peace, less stress, fresh sen-
sations, and harmonious aesthetics.

©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only 3

 3 From individualism to togetherness
Cultural mobility
30 Generation X in the late 80’s was described as utterly individualistic.
The generation of the late 90’s, in contrast, loves the feeling of being
20 and doing things together. This means however much more than just
peer-group influence or “tribalism”. 62% of the 15-24 in the western
10 world, and up to 74% in Southern Europe enjoy participation in very
94 95 96 97 98 large gatherings such as the world cup, festivals, rave parties or sponta-
Americans 15-24 y.o. neous support for social action. For the new youth, and in reverse with
the 80’s, ethics are a personal matter and pleasure a collective one.

4
Playing with the masculine and feminine
Care for the environment
60 40% of men and 58% of women 15-24 like the idea that they have both
“masculine and feminine sides”. Support for this trend ranges from 41%
50 in Spain to 54% in the US. However, while in the 90’s, there was a
growing acceptance of “feminine” values and greater sensitivity among
40 men, the recent trend is for young women to more freely assert a “mascu-
94 95 96 97 98
line” attitude. In both cases, there is not a “blurring” of sexes, but a
American men 15-24
greater palette of aesthetics and emotional registers for each gender to
Europeans 15-24
play with, as in board sports fashion and new male magazines (Men’s
Health).

4 ©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only

3. YOUTH VALUES

Bustling Teens
Experimenting in all aspects of life
and playing with one’s appearance 1
Teen's values (Europe+US, 1998)
in order to build one’s identity are
leading concerns for western teen- Family

agers, hence their focus on labels, Settled life

tatoos and other badges or mark- Law & leaders

ers. Though strict rules and organi- Organization

sation are still not welcomed by the Risk

teens, risk taking and violent trans- Social Recognition

gression are, for a large majority, not Pleasure

on top of the agenda. Doing as Money

many things as possible, having Multi-tasking

fun, getting peer recognition and Fun

earning some money are much Appearance

higher priorities (fig 1). Regarding Emotional Experience

consumption, the peer-group often 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170

has a greater influence than the fam- 100= total population average
ily, though the youth of today com-
municate with their family better
than previous generations did.

Teenagers do sports, attend sport events, know the neighbourhood watch movies and play with video games
more than any other age groups. The new generation of teenagers also browse in stores much more than their
brothers or sisters while watching less TV than former youth generations. Last but not least, since 1998,
especially in the US, they also outperform all other age groups in terms of Internet surfing. Teens are therefore
efficient channels to educate parents about new technologies, new sports, new stores or new products. Among
teens in the US, girls are taking the lead over men in terms of both expression and vitality are are nearly on-par
with boys for willignes to compete. New communication tools with the teens, united under the broad term of
“Street marketing” such as low key sponsoring for singers or co-production of local events were initiated in
the US and are now widely developing in Europe ( Caterpillar, Helly Hansen, Adidas, Levi’s, Heineken,
Sony…). Music and sports are the two pillars of Street Marketing.

©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only 5

Young adults: Diversity, cul-
3
tural mobility and new re- Young adults (Europe+US, 1998)
lations between genders
While a teenager culture converges Settled life

Law & Leaders

across the Atlantic, young adults Organization
are socialised in very different ways Organization

depending on the country (fig2). Money

90% of young Italians live with Cultural mobility

their parents compared to 29% of

Strategic Opportunism
Pleasure
young Americans for whom the Human Potential
main family at that age is the Appearance

workplace or the university cam- Multitasking

pus. Initiation to adulthood there- Fun

Emotional Experience
fore follows different paths. Street
30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170
culture is highly influential in the
UK and the US where most young 100= total population average

already work at that age, while less

materialist values and less urban
life-styles are explored within the
student world in Germany or Italy.

Still, common values emerge (fig3):

Young adults (20-24) " while teenager desires, such as ex-
2
perimenting, playing and surfing
100
are still dominant among young
90 adults, there is a greater focus on
80 personal growth and assertion of
70 one’s personal difference (ex:
60 make-up). Mobility has become
50 highly instrumental for self-devel-
40 opment, which means travelling but
30 also, increasingly, opening up to for-
20 eign cultures (“ethnic” food/cloth-
ing, world music, Internet ). Young
10
adults are therefore the leading
0
market for introducing products,
Y

N
EN
N

SA
E

K
AN

AL
C

brands and imageries that promote

U

PA
AI

U
AN

ED
IT

SP

JA
M

SW
FR

ER

both individuality and communica-

G

Live with parents Student

tion.

The Millenium 20-24 generation also explores new gender relations in an innovative and more relaxed way.
Two thirds of women aged 20-24 in the USA, Germany, Italy and more than 40% of men in the USA, Ger-
many, UK like the idea that they have both masculine and feminine sides, a situation that has been widely
illustrated by the international cult tv series, “Friends”.

6 ©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only

4. YOUTH AND CLOTHES (EUROPE AND USA)
The rise of the body culture: convergence of clothes, cosmetics and sports
We are living in an a civilisation of images and visual icons. As a result,
young people are paying an increasing amount ofattention to their ap-
pearance (fig1). For the young, appearance and comfort are no longer
opposed, they are two facets of the same overwhelming concern for the
body : 72% of the 15-24 consider comfort as one of the top 5
characteristics when buying clothes. “Casual wear”, for the young,
means “comfort-wear”. Once influenced by ideologies and rock stars,
youth fashion is now dominated by the body culture and its two leading
forces, sports and dance. The body is at the same time a medium (tat-
toos, make up), a powerful source of pleasurable experiences, and a
major area of experimentation with one’s social, cultural and psychologi-
cal identity (fig 3). Indeed, according to philosopher Lucien Sfez, “the
body has become an utopia, the territory of all our dreams”. Clothes are
therefore instrumental, not to hide, but to model, reveal, and illus-
trate the body. As a result, the two leading markets of appearance,
cosmetics/make up and clothing are converging, with youth at the
leading edge of the trend (fig2).Teenagers actually expect a similar benefit
from make-up and fabrics: an identity.

Growing importance of sports

With few at work or married, youth fashion is more influenced by mu-
sic, dance floors and sports trends than by the adult clothing cul- "Being well dressedis very important to me" (15-24)
ture. As a result, the real new fashion mega-brands are shoe brands, not 70
only Nike and Addidas, but also Doc Martens or Timberland…

In contrast, the growing diversity of sports and the instability of music

60
trends has generated a fragmentation of the male youth clothing mar-
ket, putting off balance some jean mega-brands, for example. The influ-
ence of sports is now growing strong among female teen-agers, in the 50
US, the UK, France and Germany. 93 94 95 96 97 98
1

From multi-activity to multi-functional clothes

The trend had started in the late 80’s in the shoe market in the US and
the UK. Being a “multi-tasker”, switching from one task to another in "I often choose clothes that showoff my figure" (15-24)
70
the same time frame as a skater is switching from one foot to another has
become the norm (fig5), especially in the UK and the US. For such a 60
generation, clothes need to be multi-functional with the possibility of
being used indifferently as a main item, as an accessory, as chic or casual, 50

for leisure or for work, and even as underwear or outerwear. Once lim- 40
ited to female fashion, this trend has reached the male market.
30
15-19 20-24 25-34 35+
2

©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only 7

Clothes divide, fabrics unite generations
Age has a strong impact on the content of the wardrobe: Under "I like to play with the way I look to change my identity" (15-24)
25 (students, singles): brands and experimentation, 25-34 (start work- 60

ing, couples): quality and expression, 35+ (family, budget): price and 50
rationalisation. However, as regards fabrics, there are more common 40
grounds across age groups and the young differ from the mature mostly
30
by their interest in body-shaping (fig4) and innovative colours
while their interest for stretch fabrics remains average. However, the 20

young are less likely to checking for the fibre content of their clothes. 10
15-19 20-24 25-34 35+
3

Interest for fabrics that reshape the body (15-24)

40

30

20

10

0
15-19 20-24 25-34 35+
4

Practice of five or more activities (eg.

Board sports) out of a list of 10 (15-24)

60

50

40

30

20
USA EUROPE
95 98 5

8 ©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only

5. FIVE INTERNATIONAL YOUTH “TRIBES”

Segmenting the youth

RISC has built a typology of youth ex- Expression
pectations towards clothing (2560 Eu-
ropeans and Americans aged 15-24), Sporty Sexy
using 4 sets of questions represent- (13%) (17%)
ing 64 items: social values (pleasure,
ecology, competition, belongingness,
expression), youth culture (music, Assertive
sports, shopping), identity formation (28%)
Masculine Feminine
(attitudes towards appearance, gender
recognition, imitation), clothing hab-
its (expectations towards clothes, fab-
rics and brands). 5 international youth
Easy Sensitive
sub-cultures have emerged from the
(23%) (20%)
statistical process: Sporty, Sexy, As-
sertive, Sensitive and Easy. Function

Two groups claim leadership for the next millennium: The Assertives stand out as a cross-gender (fig2)
generational model for teen-agers. It is a US culture (fig1). In contrast, the Sensitives dominate young adults
and the best educated (fig 4). The three other groups are more predictable: regular or sporty for boys, sexy for
girls.

15-24 1 15-24 2

40 40
30 30
20 20
10 10
0 0
Europe USA Men Women

Sporty Sexy Assertive Sporty Sexy Assertive

Sensitive Easy Sensitive Easy

15-24 3 20-24 4

40 40
30 30
20
20
10
10 0
0 University No university
15-19 20-24 degree degree

Sporty Sexy Assertive Sporty Sexy Assertive

Sensitive Easy Sensitive Easy

©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only 9

Assertive
Largely influenced by modern American culture and
popular music international trends, the Assertives are
at the leading edge of social change. They support an
unstable mix of masculine and feminine values,
but what is striking is their “teenager” attitude
towards life that could last up to their late 20s. Full of vitality, curios-
ity and largely desinhibited, they love to experiment with anything that
can give them a pleasurable, playful experience. The Assertives are
starving for recognition and expression in all areas of life, and fash-
ion is a fun way to get this. Chameleons, and not afraid of contradic-
tions, they “surf” on life, play with their image, develop a multi-fac-
eted personality, never settle, always on the making, easily shifting
from the daring to the romantic, from the masculine to the feminine or
conversely.

Eclectic, they could be found in restaurants or a karaoke at night, in nature, in a sports team, in a store, and,
increasingly, on the Internet.What differentiates the Assertives from previous innovative generations is a
good social integration and a strong concern for ecology and the natural/bio. The Assertives are also less
individualistic and love to participate to large gatherings and let a wave of togetherness fill them. The
Assertives are brand lovers and expect their peers to recognise the brands they wear: Fashion is a way to
play with one’s identity and put oneself on stage. The Assertives highlight the latest designer products
with unusual, natural, ethnic or recycled accessories: Colours and materials are interpreted like a
music remix. Fresh-smelling, soft and easy to care for, “well-being” fabrics are expected, as well as fabrics that
reshape the body or deliver fancy sensual or visual effects.

Sporty
Sporty is a man’s universe, but young women are join-
ing the club in growing numbers, especially in the
USA. Sporty enjoys competition, in fashion as on
the field: Life is a challenge with winners and los-
ers. Growing up in life means looking for physical,
social and material success.Sporty is self-confident, rational, well-
organised and action driven. Sporty is seriously involved in the prac-
tice of sports, club membership, team support, training, reading and
watching. Sport is a real social school where one finds principles and
models. Sporty wears the right set for the right sports, and above all,
makes a point of wearing the latest labels of success: brands should
be highly visible Sporty is ready to pay the price to get quality, per-
formance and style, even at the expense of comfort or ease of care. For
Sporty, fabrics should better handle perspiration and should be
lighter while being as resistant.

10 ©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only

Sexy
Sexy is lacking self-confidence and wants to be loved
by all means. Insecure, Sexy is ready to believe in
any neo-ecological magic that works on the body.
For Sexy, the body is the stage of the personal-
ity, the centre of all worries, pleasures and expres-
sions. Sensual, she feels at her best when dancing. Sexy needs con-
stant approval of the peer group and is ready to change identity/look
when needed. Therefore, Sexy is addicted to body shapers and make-
up. Typical fashion victim, she recklessly browses stores for the latest
novelties, hence her attraction to chain store brands. Being dressed
requires lot of accessories and unusual combinations. Clothes should
reshape the body, give a sense of confidence and generate admira-
tion. Fabrics should offer tantalising new colours and effects and be
fresh smelling.
Easy
Easy is the regular young boy or girl who grows up
by imitation more than by provocation or experi-
mentation. Easy belongs to a generation who lives
with parents and values freedom without trans-
gression. Therefore, Easy wants first and foremost
comfort out of life. Easy avoids constraints and stays away from re-
sponsibilities. Obviously, Easy hates to get dressed up and prefers
clothes to wear anytime, anywhere, without standing out or feeling strange.
Easy clearly dislikes shopping but does sports, including board sports
and trekking, Therefore, freedom of movement is his/her primary ex-
pectation. Clothes should be hard wearing, easy to care for, easy
to buy, easy to like and should differentiate men from women .
The feel of fabrics should be familiar and natural. Brands, style and
fit are not so important, but clothes should look as if made for the young
only. Easy shops by mail order or in large malls.

Sensitive
Sensitive is primarily a woman’s world. They like
to live with the family, cook, clean, read, shop and,
sometimes, dance. Few sports. Educated young and
urban males express, however, a growing interest for
aspects of this universe that foster well-being and
relaxation. Sensitive is not fashion-driven but has different wardrobes
which are appropriate for different contexts and seasons. Clothes
should reflect one’s inner personality and have a natural relation
to the body: the fit is extremely important. Fundamentally, for the Sen-
sitive, clothing is part of skin care. Fabrics should be anti-allergy,
should soothe the skin and generate a feeling of well-being. Fabrics
should always be soft and, despite their delicacy, be able to resist laun-
dry mistakes. Quality should be reasonably priced and brand names
should be discreet.
©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only 11
6. MARKETING TO THE YOUTH

Brands: a culture to share, a set of paradoxes to enjoy

Since the 60’s, youth brands provide personality and social models (Nike,
Adidas), highlight acceptable ways to assert one’s difference (Pepsi Cola),
lower cultural inhibitions for exploring new ways of being, and ultimately,
improve the sense of self-esteem and self-confidence for young adults in
the making (Levi’s).

However, brands not only help the

young to grow up in life as individu-
als, but also and increasingly, pack-
age and deliver a set of symbols and
images to share with other young
people (fig 1), across cultures, and 1
since the late 80’s, across genders 50
It is important to me that people recognize the brand I use

(Calvin Klein, Esprit).

40

Since the mid 90’s, a new realm of 30

global brands, such as The Gap,
have helped the new generations 20

to find a simple meaning and un- 10

limited pleasures in the complex

set of contradictions and paradoxes 0
15-19 20-24 25-34 35+

that characterises their desires and

behaviours.

The brand experience starts in stores

Brand platforms for the 15-24 need 2
to combine playfulness and adult- 80
70
hood, experimentation and per- 60
formance, expression and imitation, 50
transgression and reassurance, ex- 40
30
oticism and familiarity. TV adver- 20
tising alone does not have enough 10
“bandwidth” to convey all of this. 0
In contrast, niche players with lo- 15-24 25+
cal sponsors, and international re- Pleasure in advertising Shopping is fun

tail brands (fig3), excel at this ex-

ercise with only few TV spots. For
modern young consumers, indeed,
the brand experience is first and
foremost an interactive shopping ex-
perience (fig2).

12 ©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only

Price, brand image, or product performance ?

The product category is the major factor impacting on sensitivity to price (fig 4). For beauty and personal care,
young people give the priority either to product quality or brand image. For technology, product performance
is the leading buying criteria. For food, price is clearly the dominant concern Price prevails for 37% young
buyers of casual clothing, but branding is strong too. However, despite the current economic boom, sensitivity
to price remains higher for the US than for the European youth.

C h o o s in g p ric e a s b u yin g c rite ria o ve r b ra n d im a g e a n d

p ro d u c t q u a lity

Fo od

C a su a l c lo th e s

S p o r t e q u ip .

C o m p u te r s

B e a u ty / C a re

0 10 20 30 40 50

Where have the 15-24 shopped for clothes last year ?

3

USA UK France Germany Italy Spain

59% JC-Penney 59% Next 60% “boutiques” 49% C&A 59% specialist 58% Zara
stores
50% Wal-mart, 59% Marks & 53% hypermarkets 43% specialist 34% Benetton 56% El Corte
Kmart Spencer stores Ingles
49% The Gap 54% Designer 42% mail order 39% Karstadt 25% Stefanel 46% Supermarkets
outlets
33% Target 52% Mail order 24% Galeries 33% H&M 21% Standa 32% Mango
Lafayette, C&A

©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only 13

Pictures legends

Page 1: top/right: Max - 01/03/99 - Italy - Publicity ESSENZA - A.F. Studio - GORLE - BG - Ph. C Adal

Page 2: top/right: Paris Match 1998- illustration of an article on World Cup in France 1998

Page 2: down/middle: I - D - mai-99 - UK - Illustration fashion article p 59

Page 3: top/right:I - D - mai-99 - UK - Publicity “El Dantes” p 91

Page 3: middle/right: Wall paper - avr-99 - UK - illustration fashion aricle p 266

Page 4: down/left: Archi-Design - Dec.Janv. 99 - France - publicity XS Paco Rabanne (Best of Pub) p 23

Page 4: down/right: Archi-Design - Dec.Janv. 99 - France - publicity Kookaï (Best of Pub) page 22

Page 5: down/left: Marketing magazine - 8th april 1999 - UK - illustration video games article“Lara Croft”

Page 5: down/right: Marketing magazine - 4th mars 1999 - UK - Girls Band “All Saints”

Page 7: Kristen Marchall Photo Service - 1998 - USA - fashion illustration “Claim your beauty”

Page 8: middle: Catalogue GANT U.S.A. - Summer 99 - US - 1ère de couverture

Page 8: down: Advertising brochure I MAC 1999

Page 10: top/right: LA REVISTA - Aout 1998 - Espagne - illustration article p43

Page 10: down/right: L’espresso - 10/12/98 - Italy - Publicity TIM

Page 11: top/right: I - D - mai-99 - UK - fashion illustration p 57

Page 11: middel/right: Kristen Marchall Photo Service - 1998 - USA - pub?

Page 11: down/right: Publicity campaign Nina RICCI 1999 (femme “ange” dand le Métro) France
Page 12: top/right: Publicity campaign LEVI’S 1998 (site officilel Levi’s-Internet)

Page 12: middle: Publicity campaign1999 Tommy HILFINGER - homme

Page 12: Logo H&M 1999 France

Page 12: Publicity campaign 1998 GAP Europe

Page 13: Publicity campaign 1998 marque ESPRIT Europe

Page 13: Cover page STORES magazines (Target Global Opportunities) USA

14 ©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only

 For further information, please contact:

Larry Hasson
RISC SA
3 rue Nicole
CH-1260 NYON
SWITZERLAND
Tel +41 22 362 19 88
Fax +41 22 361 09 80

Michel Ladet
RISC International Europe SA
63 avenue de Villiers
F-75017 PARIS
FRANCE
Tel + 33 1 42 12 85 00
Fax + 33 1 42 12 85 10

info@risc-int.com
www.risc-int.com

INTERNATIONAL RESEARCH INSTITUTE ON SOCIAL CHANGE

©RISC 1999 - Strictly confidential - Use restricted to authorized persons only 15