Sewing Machine Needle Sizes

By Debbie Colgrove, About.com Guide

See More About:
• sewing machine needles
• machine trouble shooting
• buying a sewing machine online
• sewing machine information
Understanding the numbers associated with sewing machine Needles will help you make
the correct choice and possibly solve machine problems.
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Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart

Debbie Colgrove, Licensed to About.com
All the numbers associated with sewing machine needles can stop you in your tracks. It's
actually a simple labeling system; the confusion comes in because they are using a
European and American labeling system.
• The American system uses 8 to 19, 8 being a fine needle and 19 being a thick
heavy needle.
• European sizes range from 60 to 120, 60 being a fine needle and 120 being a thick
heavy needle.
Now let's look at fabric associated with needle size.
• Think of a fine sheer window curtain. You will need a fine needle such as a 8/60
needle. Using a 19/120 would leave holes in the fabric.
• Now let's look at heavy upholstery fabric. If you were to try and sew through
upholstery fabric with a 8/60 needle, it would bend or break. Using a 19/120 provides a
needle strong enough to penetrate the fabric and carry a thread strong enough for this
type of fabric.
 • Now let's look at a combination … You have a lightweight fabric but you want to do
a heavy topstitching detail with heavy thread. Normally the heavy thread would call for
you to use a heavy needle such as a 120/19, but that would leave holes in your fabric.
Now you would experiment with a needle that falls somewhere in the middle such as an
80/12.
Always test your thread and fabric combination on scraps of fabric rather than the item you
are working on. Consider the needle as dangerous as a scissors going into your fabric.

You may find a needle size listed as 90/14 or 14/90. The order of the numbers does not
effect the size.

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Needle Fabric/Use Sizes Description

Ball-point Knits 70/10 –
100/16
This needle has a medium tip that is a slightly more
rounded than a universal needle and passes between the
fabric threads instead of piercing them. Ball-point needles
ensure more even stitches on coarse and heavy knits and
won’t damage spandex, interlocks and other knits that
snag or run easily.
Sharp/
Microtex
Finely woven
fabrics
60/8 –
90/14
These needles feature a narrow shaft and sharper point to
pierce the threads of woven fabrics. Use for stitching
smooth, finely woven fabrics, such as silk, chintz,
lightweight faux suede and microfiber fabrics. Because
these needles enable perfectly straight stitching, they’re
also ideal for heirloom stitching, topstitching, pintucks and
edge stitching.
Universal Knits or wovens 60/8 –
120/19
Point is very slightly rounded for use on knits, but sharp
enough to pierce woven fabrics. These needles are
available in the widest size range. Use when stitching
synthetic or natural wovens and knits.
Specialty Needles
Needle Fabric/Use Sizes Description
Denim/
Jeans
Heavy wovens
and denims
70/10 –
110/18
These needles have a thick, strong shaft and a very sharp
point. They are used for stitching denim, canvas, duck and
other heavy, tightly woven fabrics. They are also ideal for
stitching through multiple fabric layers without breaking.
Leather Leather, suede
and thick
nonwovens
80/12 –
110/18
Leather needles have a wedge-shape point that penetrates
leather, suede, vinyl, heavy faux suede and leather, as well
as other thick, nonwoven fabrics, without tearing them.
When using a leather needle, it’s important to stitch
accurately because the needle leaves a large, permanent
hole. Tie thread ends, instead of backstitching, to prevent
perforating the surface. Because the needle has a slight
cutting point, never use it on woven or knit fabrics.
Machine
Embroidery
For embroidery 70/10 –
90/14
Machine embroidery needles have a larger eye and
specially designed scarf that protects the thread against
breaking or shredding, even when stitching dense designs.
Use for machine embroidery with rayon, acrylic or specialty
threads.
Metallic For use with
metallic
threads
80/12 Metallic needles are designed especially for use with
metallic threads. This needle features an even larger eye
than the embroidery needle, a fine shaft and a sharp point
to prevent thread breakage and shredding. It has a special,
large-groove scarf designed to protect the thread and
prevent skipped stitches. It’s also ideal for use with
monofilament thread.
General Purpose Needles
Sewing Machine Needle Charts
22.115 Page 2
6/05
Needle Fabric/Use Sizes Description
Overlock Serging all
fabrics
BLX1: 2-11
and 2-14; and
DCX1: 2-11
and 3-14
Overlock needles are specially designed for use with a serger. They feature a
sharp
point that is suitable for all fabrics. Choose the size system recommended by your
serger manufacturer.
Quilting Machine
quilting
75/11 and
90/14
Quilting needles feature a sharp, tapered point and are designed to stitch through
thick layers and intersecting seams. Use them for piecing quilts and machine
quilting the layers together.
Selfthreading
Wovens 80/12 and
90/14
Self-threading needles have a slot on one side of the eye, so you can slide the
thread through it and into the eye—much easier than trying to poke a frayed
thread end through a small eye. Use this general-purpose needle if you have
difficulty threading a needle. It works well with woven fabrics but may snag knits.
Spring
needle
Free-motion
embroidery
or quilting
See at right Spring needles are used for free-motion quilting, embroidery and
monogramming.
It’s designed with a wire coil that surrounds the shaft and acts as a presser foot
that
depresses the fabric as the needle goes down into the fabric and releases the
fabric
when the needle raises. Available in the following needle types: universal sizes
70/10 – 90/14, stretch sizes 75/11 and 90/14, and quilting sizes 75/11 and 90/14.
Stretch Lightweight
knits
75/11 and
90/14
Stretch needles feature a deep scarf so the bobbin hook gets closer to the needle
eye, preventing skipped stitches on fine, lightweight knit fabrics. These needles
are
ideal for stitching silk jersey; Lycra; any highly elastic, lightweight knits; as well as
lightweight faux suede. Try this needle if you’re getting skipped stitches using a
ball-point needle.
Topstitch Topstitching 80/12, 90/14
and 100/16
Topstitch needles have an extra-large eye and a large groove to accommodate
heavy topstitching thread or two strands of all-purpose thread. They also feature
an
extra-sharp point for straight, accurate stitching.
Twin Double
topstitching
1.6/70 –
4.0/100
Twin needles are constructed with two needles attached to a single shaft. Use
them
to stitch parallel rows in a single pass—especially for heirloom or decorative
stitching and hemming. These needles can only be used on a sewing machine
with
zigzag capabilities that threads from front to back. Twin needles are available in
denim, stretch, embroidery and metallic. There are also twin hemstitch needles
that
have one wing needle and one universal needle. Sizing for twin needles is
different
from other specialty needles with two numbers listed on the packaging. The first
number represents the distance (in millimeters) between the needles; the second
number represents the European needle size. Use closely spaced needles for fine
fabrics and needles that are set farther apart for heavy fabrics.
Triple Triple
topstitching
2.5/80 and
3.0/80
Triple needles are constructed with three needles attached to a single shaft. Triple
needles are available in universal only. Sizing for triple needles is different from
other specialty needles with two numbers listed on the packaging. The first
number
represents the distance (in millimeters) between the needles; the second number
represents the European needle size. For more info see Twin needle above.
Wing/
Hemstitch
Decorative
and heirloom
stitching
100/16 and
120/19
Wing/hemstitch needles have a flared shaft, which looks like wings, and creates a
decorative hole in tightly woven fabrics. Use this needle for heirloom stitching,
openwork, hemstitching and other decorative stitching on fabrics such as fine
batiste and linen.
Specialty Needles (continued)

calico, long cloth = 60 to 80

fine lawn, nainsooks etc = 100 to 150
fine linens = 80 to 120
light woollens, flannels etc = 40 to 60
heavy woollens = 20 to 40

for dressmaking = 50 to 70
or silk nos 24 or 30

for hemming silk = silk 36

embroidery = silk 80 to 10

braiding = silk 30 or cotton 70

I know modern machinery embroidery is "30" and a very fine crochet cotton is "40" but do
these still equate to the older sizes?
Denier was the first methodology for measuring threads, then along came the decitex system. Moving
on, the current Metric system was introduced. Any or all systems may be used in the trade.

Confusion arises because although the rationale makes sense, logic is different and for some, very
confusing when the exact opposite formula applies to the denier/decitex and metric systems.

As an example - a pair of tights (pantyhose to our American cousins) is measured in Denier and
the higher the number the thicker the material. So a pair of 10 denier tights are fine, 40 denier is much
heavier.
With metric numbering systems for thread, the opposite applies - the thickerthe thread, the lower the
metric number. So a number 12 thread is thickerthan a number 40 weight.
Using the metric system, all you really need to remember for embroidery and sewing thread is:

'the higher the number the finer the thread, the lower the number the thicker the thread'
or that it is the opposite to a pair of tights!

The explanations and calculations are for the more technically minded...

Metric measuring Systems

<><><><></></></></>
International Metric Count = Nm or No
Nm = number of 1000 metre hanks per kilo
Denier to metric = 9000 ÷ denier
Metric to Denier = 9000 ÷ metric
Dtex to metric = 10,000 ÷ dtex
Metric to Dtex = 1000 ÷ metric

Denier & Decitex measuring Systems

In the Metric system, the finer the thread, the higher the number and the number itself is usually
rounded to the nearest 5 or 0. Example Conversions are not always 100% accurate, but a general
guide.

Using an example from the Madeira CLASSIC shadecard, Madeira CLASSIC No 40

Dtex 135x2 Den 120x2 Nm 74/2No 40 (which is actually Nm74/2 = 74÷2 = 37)

Dtex 135 x 2 converted to Denier = 135 x 2 = 270 x 0.9 = 243 ÷ 2 = Denier

121x2Den 120 x 2 converted to Decitex = 120 x 2 = 240 ÷ 0.9 = 267 ÷ 2 = Dtex

133x2Nm 74/2 = No 37No 37 converted to Decitex = 10000 ÷ 37 = 270 ÷ 2 = 135 x 2 DtexNo 37 converted to Denier =
9000 ÷ 37 = 243 ÷ 2 = 121x 2 Denier
(No 40 converted to Decitex = 10000 ÷ 40 = 250 ÷ 2 = 125x2 Dtex)
(No 40 converted to Denier = 9000 ÷ 40 = 225 ÷ 2 = 112x2 Denier)
Tex = weight in grams of 1000 metres of yarn
dtex = decitex = weight in grams of 10,000 metres of yarn
dtex x 2 = two plys of yarn
Td = den count = denier = weight in grams of 9000 metres of yarn
den x 2 = two plys of yarn
1 denier = 1.111 decitex
Dtex to Denier = dtex count x 0.9
Denier to Dtex = denier ÷ 0.9

In these systems, the thicker the thread, the higher the number

<><><><></></></></>
International Metric Count = Nm or No
Nm = number of 1000 metre hanks per kilo
Denier to metric = 9000 ÷ denier
Metric to Denier = 9000 ÷ metric
Dtex to metric = 10,000 ÷ dtex
Metric to Dtex = 1000 ÷ metric

In the Metric system, the finer the thread, the higher the number and the number itself is usually
rounded to the nearest 5 or 0. Example Conversions are not always 100% accurate, but a general
guide.
Using an example from the Madeira CLASSIC shadecard, Madeira CLASSIC No 40
<></>
135 x 2 = 270 x 0.9 = 243 ÷ 2 = Denier 121 x
Dtex 135 x 2 converted to Denier =
2

Den 120 x 2 converted to Decitex = 120 x 2 = 240 ÷ 0.9 = 267 ÷ 2 = Dtex 133 x 2

Nm 74/2 = No 37

No 37 converted to Decitex = 10000 ÷ 37 = 270 ÷ 2 = 135 x 2 Dtex

No 37 converted to Denier = 9000 ÷ 37 = 243 ÷ 2 = 121 x 2 Denier

(No 40 converted to Decitex = 10000 ÷ 40 = 250 ÷ 2 = 125x2 Dtex)

(No 40 converted to Denier = 9000 ÷ 40 = 225 ÷ 2 = 112x2 Denier)

Yarn Count Conversion

(1) Yarn Count Definitions

Denier Count
Metric Count (Nm):
(den):
Nm = m / 1-g
Den = g / 9000-m
 English Cotton Count (NeB):
Tex Count (tex):
NeB = 840-yd / 1-lb or NeB = 768.1-m /
Tex = g / 1000-m
453.59-g

(2) Yarn Count Conversion Factors

From metric count (Nm) to

From denier (den) to others:
others:
Nm = 9000 / den
Tex = 1000 / Nm
NeB = 5315 / den
NeB = 0.59 x Nm
Tex = 0.111 x den
Den = 9000 / Nm
Enter a number in Denier field, then
Enter a number in Nm field, then
click outside the text box or enter.
click outside the text box or enter.

From Denier:
From Nm:
To Nm:
To Tex:
To NeB:
To NeB:
To Tex:
TO Den:
From English cotton count (NeB)
From tex count (tex) to others:
to others:
Nm = 1000 / tex
Nm = 1.693 x NeB
NeB = 590 / tex
Tex = 590 / NeB
Den = 9 x tex
Den = 5314 / NeB
Enter a number in Tex field, then click
Enter a number in NeB field, then
outside the text box or enter.
click outside the text box or enter.

From Tex:
From NeB:
To Nm:
To Nm:
To NeB:
To Tex:
TO Den:
To Den:
Conversion examples:
[ Ex. 1: NeB 30 = 5315/30 den = 177 den ] [ Ex. 2: 150 den =
NeB 5315 / 150 = NeB 35 ] [ Ex. 3: NeB 20 = Nm 1.693 x 20 = Nm 34 ]