20 AN 2004
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Pink and poisonous?
Aglobal scare over salmon is just what the biue revolution needs
WHAT are Gslsmade oft “Five percent pots,
‘95 pe cent poblis” goes the reply ofone
former shee fil Inthe ate of farmed
salmon jepems the ngredientlist should
seoinclsde dosing, Pcie and several other
organochlorine pollutants Andas tie wart
‘words raging overlat wees study conte
{these too come laced with pales (epg).
Nobody is seriously faulting he tuys
smplesives or aw data Burdo the detected
traces of contamination realy sity warning
peopletoeatno mare tana portnsamont
tsuch bearfiendly fea even lest
‘the farmed filets hal om Seotand othe
Faroefsonds? The studys authors armed with
naprteachtorfskassesement championed
bythe US governments Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA. are adamant the
warning sjusiied Experts attheUS Foodand
Drag Administration and tthe UKat the Food
‘Standards Agency lst itis scaremongering
The wo camps arent even close ie EPA
sets limits for PCBsand similar chemicals in
fishat nto 48 parts pertain Whe average
lovesintte farmed salmon were around
36 parsperbillon) Theotheragencesset
ihresholsof upto 2000 pats er bilion.
ache enthusiastically rubishes the oder’
methods as outdated Netherhas adequately
‘explained thescientiicassumptions or
‘seers underpinning their statements
Dothcaraps ought tocome lean onthe fact
that theres nofolproot way of assessing de
heath risks of PCB chemicals Tocalgits
‘aitgivearangeofargish doses olabrats,
‘reels mculture, and leokforeancerand
ttherabnormalises they then have t0
extrapolate the findings tbigerbodied
humangespostd to muchsmuller doses
Notonlyisthisan imprecise scence experts
+ -arebitterly dlvidedan the fundamentals.
The BPA approach, favoured by greens,
assumes that there salinear relationship
‘derween the dose ta chemical and any health
effects, and that thetine canbe extrapslated
‘seamlessly backfrom the arge doses sed
‘animal teststotiny doresof tiekind seen
{nfarmed salmon By this“lnear mode!
‘the cance causing powers ofa dioxin or PCB
shoinkasthe dase alls butneverdeop to zero:
thereieno completely safethreshold.
Thecompeting view, backed by the WHO;
holds chat theresa threshold below which
PCBike chemicals loseall heireancercausing
powers, and that thelinear model therefore
exaggerates the dangers of thelowar doses. Its
‘complex argument bu the gists that PCB
like chemucals~ unlike say ionising radiation —
donot make cells cancerous directly,
bby damaging theircore DNA. The chemicals
ctmore subtly stimulating receptorsincelle
‘navarletyof waysthatean make teaser for
Seale, disease, sgosmngen™
insecticides and formtumours.
escapingfshall Tetecomessvous
make salmon theory, at which the
conteminantis simply
farmingan too dilute to stimulate
environmental staph eceptirto
" + infuence cl
pariah’ ‘Neitherapprosch
cplaineall the facts
boris reeofreumptions. The linesr model
sssumes, for instance that mamumals have few
or nowaysto eliminate or repalrcancerous
cells, and that our bodies metabolise low doses
‘of chefmicalsin the same way a high doses
‘The theeshold model assumes that whenever
toxicologists seca poltant’s biological eect
Aisappear atlow doses, they are witnessing thc
Safety taeshold kicking in rather than the
Lis of theirexperiment s sensitivity. And of
course, cancer is notthe only wotry:evidence
‘hat PCBs and dexins may disrupt he mmm
and endocrine systems goes back yeas
sof the toxicology is neler, ow should
‘werespond? Weean push fr regulations that
tensureall farmed selmon labelled with its
origins That would enable ustoseekout ish
fom the “deanest” producers, whlleputting
pressure onthelndustrytodean upthe
| fiebmealituses Butbeaware that shunning
salmonon the basi ofthe EPA's risk madel
‘means giving upnet only the benefits of
‘omega-3fish of but, possibly, otber
‘contaminated foods, inthe past. even butter
| BiSbeenoudtocdryconpaabiepcB lve
Nor willeiminating the chemicalsizom
feed solve the biggest threats tofarming’s
‘dhe evolution. Despite theindustrys effort
todlean up sealice disease, insecticides and
escaping fish all contiaue to make salmon
faroingan environmental pariah. the
contamination isue isn't Uh rst imporar
reason to worry sbout Farmed fish. Lets hope
night just be theone tospursomesction. €
ania 04 enoob COMARDS, EDINBURGH
‘THEargumentover whe
ther
{armed salmon (safe togat has
bees.as fenaied as thefip
sacaved the industry a
Confused the public th
lef scientists at odds ov
“within World Health Or
(Qi) salery init,
sot audsome say ste
areroquired aay
theconfusion wore, th
no clear way of seciding
tobalance the health ri
known benefits of eatin
abouttiotimesthe qua
pollutantsarecoscent
{isos that ake up 2
jesayit
is
ome
dioxins and food safety
Ihaveben attacked ss"out of
dite'by thechaleman of the UK
Foes standards Agency (FSA),
Joha Krebs, because they assim
that there ism threshold below
“which dexins are sate. Krebs says
thecomect guidelines corae om,
the WHO, which eke into account
{ temechanism by watch dioxins
} eausesancer The WHO says that
daly ince of up ra4piconzams
perllogram ofbody weights
tolerable’ This would allow the
eatingof upto three normal
| pando one reson the fh
lou feteaon thay
| Setchinomoges ayy
| which are thoughtto help reduce
vate tche pe
1 halcaescomewhen
sig tata hes en
‘rommengalonsforthepuble
ucyby Us estan ore
Se eae ey
{beat eed hc US
Tovennrenl etter Apes
(taveresimatgtincsbel
the polluantscausingeancer. | portions of slmonaveek
“Thistesultedin thesuggestion | — ButKiebs’ lines challenged
thatpeopleshouldestnomore by other government researchers
tan 5 gramsamonth-lessthan intheUk.Mel Holmes, Ancy Hart
halfanormals3s4ram portion ~ and Martin Rose from the
chemostcontarnizatedselmon Cental ScleneeLaboretoryin
from Scotland andthe Faeroe
‘Glards,rthey wanted iokeep
theiradaitional rickof contracting
cancer below 100,000.
This recommendation doe net
York point out that some ofthe
WHC and FSa'saesimptions may
underestimate the sk There are
“There no way of cecil
Scmeprioteinamacand {2 blercethe heal
reproductive systems toxiccontminarts
{ “IpthetPAvskestinates known
fage variations in the potenti
toxicity ofaifferent dioxins,
theyargue andi these ate taken
intoaccoune, most people eating
asingleportionofsalmona week
could exceed te WHO Tims
la. paperat the Dioxin 2008,
conferencein Boston, they say
sensiive individuals maybe
porticulanlyatriskand toxicity
{ata should be reexamined. But
‘BeFSA dismisses theiranal
Sea"worse-care calculation
would have the effect of
exaggerating the intake of ciowla
“The disagroements ver sae
Luts, however do cothing
‘nswer te key question ofhow
‘obalance the damaging impact
ofthe pollutants against the
beneficial effects ofeating ely
Fish, Ths calculation was net done
by the US study, andlisstillbeing
investigated by oneof the F's
expert commiztees, whichis
‘expected torepor:loterthisy
Thequestion important
beeausettdoesgatjustconcem
salmon, Farmed seabassaremore
contaminated with FCBsthan wild
seabass say Portuguesescientists
(Chemosphere, ol54,p3503)
Andthesame is likely tobetue ot
animals neluding sheep andother
Uvestock chatarealsofed ish
‘llsto boost their levels of heath
slvingomepa-stattyacis. &