by

Greenjackdavey

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 Table of Contents
Growing in Containers..............................................................4

The Basic Design of Self Watering Containers......................9

Making a Self Watering Container - Step by Step................12

The Secret of how they work..................................................22

Air circulation...........................................................................24

Size of containers....................................................................25

How many vegetables to plant...............................................25

How to use the containers......................................................26

Regulating the water flow.......................................................29

Keeping a journal.....................................................................30

End of the Season...................................................................30

What can you do?....................................................................33

Finally........................................................................................35

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Growing in Containers

Despite all the benefits of growing plants in

containers, there is one great drawback and that is
their constant need of watering.

If you do not give vegetables enough water, they

will under-produce. The trouble is you are unlikely
to find out until it is to late, usually when you have
a dismal harvest. Flowers will wilt, or just die.

The other danger is to give them to much water,

leading to rot and disease. Over watering is one of
the most common ways for people kill their plants.

People have been using a variety of drip feed water

systems in greenhouses for years but these can still
over-water. Here you swap the chore of watering
for that of constantly monitoring your plants health.

You can also go the way of watering systems that

are operated by sensors, pumps and timers. In
these ecologically wary and thrifty times, the
expense of setting up such a system and the

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energy it uses, does not seem worth the cost and
trouble when balanced against the returns.
Anyway, from a purely aesthetic point of view, I do
not find that a mass of tanks and piping looks very
nice on your patio or balcony.

This is why I personally find the simplicity and

functionality of reservoir based self watering
systems so appealing. The containers conceal the
watering system completely. In fact, the containers
can even be decorated and become focal points in
themselves. To my mind nothing pulls together a
garden design better, that a beautifully decorated
container overflowing with wonderful plants.

By copying nature herself, and using the capillary

action of the soil to naturally move the water, the
plants benefit from getting just the right amount of
water they need. Not to little and not to much.

Also, if you forget to top up the reservoir, the

plants are more forgiving and as long as you do not
leave it to long, the plants will give you a little
leeway to correct things.

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It is true that there are those plants whose needs
will vary, potatoes for instance do not like to sit in
damp soil. Luckily, there are some tips and tricks
that can be employed. These have been learned by
hard won experience and lost crops, but a wise
man once said you can often learn more from your
mistakes than your successes.

Possibly, the greatest advantage of all, is that self

watering containers even allow the complete novice
to become a successful gardener. As long as the
water container is kept topped up and the other
plants needs, like position and sunlight are catered
for, there is more than good chance the plant will
grow successfully. Drainage holes will prevent over-
watering and as long as the soil is occasionally fed,
mother nature will take care of the rest.

There are quite a few commercial versions of self

watering containers out there but again, if you
want more than a few, it can work out quite
expensive. So, I hope this guide will be useful for
those people, not just with the desire to have a go
and build one for themselves but also for those with
a limited budget.

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I am also sure that these ideas will also be helpful
to the new breed of urban farmer who is trying to
produce some of their own food in those limited
spaces that are ideal for containers like balconies,
window ledges and roofs.

Finally, do not forget that these ideas can be

adapted for those garden crafts-persons who plant
up and decorates containers to give as presents or
sell. What can be more appealing than a beautifully
decorated container of lovely flowers that virtually
takes care of itself.

I would like to encourage you all to spread this

knowledge around. Once you have mastered it,
please teach someone. At the present time I do not
think you could perform a greater service for
people, than show them how to easily grow, at
least some of their own food.

To introduce people to the joy of successfully

growing something from a tiny seed to a healthy
mature plant, is to do something magical for them.
You can help them reconnect.

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This simple “technology” has the power to change
so many lives. It will allow first timers a greater
chance of success and give experienced gardeners
the best gift of all – more time.

I really hope you find this useful and here is

wishing to your success
best wishes
GreenjackDavey

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The Basic Design of Self
Watering Containers

Most self watering containers are based on a

fundamental design of two chambers. One of these
will contain the soil and plants, the other one below
this, houses the water reservoir. These two
chambers are usually separated by a partition or
floor that keeps the soil above the water with a
small gap between them for air and drainage. The
water chamber is not as big as the soil chamber
and takes up approximately ¼ to 1/3 of the lower
space.

The floor or partition that separates the two

chambers is usually supported by open weave
basket type containers, into which soil is tightly
packed. These rest in the water chamber and act as
wicks, allowing the moisture to rise or soak into the
soil chamber through capillary action.

At the level between the top of the water surface

and the partition floor, drainage holes are placed in
the sides of the container. This prevents the

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overfilling of the water chamber and also allows air
to circulate.

The water is delivered to the reservoir chamber by

a topping up or re-fill tube, that leads from the
water chamber to the top of the inside surface of
the container. There is some controversy about
whether you should use PVC piping for this. If you
are worried about V.O.C's or plastic contaminating
your flowers and vegetables you should opt for a
piece of copper piping or an organically friendly
length of bamboo.

Again if you are growing food and recycling plastic

containers, you should make sure that they are
food grade plastic. If you are considering the
purchase of a container from some place other than
a kitchen or restaurant supply store, and the
container is not clearly labeled as "food safe" or
being made of food grade plastic, then you should
assume that it is not food grade.

To be certain that you are choosing a container that

does not leach, check for a recycling symbol
somewhere on the container.

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If it is a #2 HDPE (high density polyethylene), or a
#4 LDPE (low density polyethylene), or a #5 PP
(polypropylene), you should be alright.

This is a universal sign for

"food safe" food container
and utensils.
Check to see if the container
you are going to use has it.

Also you may find the symbol of a wine glass and a

fork. This is again an international symbol for a
container that is made of food safe plastic.

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Making a Self Watering
Container - Step by Step

For this example we will use a standard storage

box. The lid can be cut down and used for making
the platform that separates the soil from the water
chamber.

For the wicks we will use plastic flower pots. You

will need to drill these with drainage holes to let the
water seep into the soil.

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If you insert one inside the other, you can drill both
at the same time.

Drill an extra four holes, evenly spaced in the rim

of each pot. This is so you can attach the pots with
ties to the partition later.
You can also use the open weave flower pots that
are sold for water plants for ponds.

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Next, you need to place the box on the lid and
mark around it.

This will become the floor of the partition in the

base of the box that separates the soil from the
water reservoir.

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Next you need to cut out the center of the lid, just
inside the lines you have drawn.

Use a metal rule to steady your blade and take it

slowly. When you have cut out the centre of the lid,
you will need to mark out two circles using your
“wick” pots as a guide.

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Rather than try cutting out two circles, you may
find it easier to draw crosses through the circles
and then then join up the points where it touches
the edges of the circle.

This will leave you to square holes to cut out that

will rest on the rim of your “wick” pots.

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Drill holes at the corners of the square hole you
have cut, so you can attach the “wick”pots. While
you have the drill handy, you can also make some
extra holes in the partition to allow air flow.

Before you attach the “wick” pots to the base use

one of them to measure the height of your
drainage/overflow hole. This should be just below
the height of the pot.

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Place the base on your “wick” pots and attached
them with plastic ties to the holes you drilled at the
corners.

You can use plant ties or even cable ties, the sort
used by electricians.

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Cut a piece of tubing to height of the container and
remember to cut the end that goes into the water
reservoir at an angle to help prevent it getting
blocked.

You place this in the inside corner of the container

making sure the top will be above the level of the
soil when it is filled.

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The next step is to place the box in the place it is
going to hold the plants and fill it up. Remember,
you do not want to be moving this around after you
have filled it, as it will be quite heavy!

Fill the “wick” pots with soil and firm it down. This
will help the water to flow upwards into the rest of
the container.

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Then fill up the rest of the container with compost.
This should not be firmed down to much as plants
need air in the soil around their roots.

Now plant up as you would a normal container.

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The Secret of how they work

This basic design can be applied to a variety of

containers and can be adapted for growing different
plants and vegetables.

Self watering containers will allow you to increase

the production of vegetables and plants, while at
the same time reduce the time you spend caring for
them. The plants are able to soak up the right
amount of moisture they need through the action of
the soil wicks that soak up the water from the
reservoir below.

There is also a secret to how the plant will

develop and thrive in a self watering
container.

The plant will naturally tend to send some of its

roots downward to find where water has settled in
the ground. This is how it behaves when it is
planted in the ground, searching downwards until it
finds the water table.

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Now, and this is the key to your success, if you
fertilize you plants from above, the plants will
develop and form two different sorts of roots. Apart
from the set it will send down in search of
moisture, another set will develop and stay nearer
the surface to gather the nutrients it needs. This bi-
root system that you will encourage with a self
watering system is the key to success.

This is the optimum lifestyle for a healthy and

happy plant. When you use this method for
vegetables, those grown in self watering container
will often outproduce the same variety grown in the
ground.

Watering the plants from below, solves most of the

problems usually associated with over-watering. All
plants rely on micro-organisms and small bugs that
cluster around their roots at the base of their
stem,to break down the nutrients in the soil and
provide them with the food they need. These
creature need air (as does the plant itself).

When a plant is watered from above as most

gardeners do with hoses, these micro organisms

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often drown as the soil becomes to water sodden
and the plant suffers as a result.
The best way to feed your flowers or vegetables is
with compost from a wormery or worm farm. All
you have do is top dress the soil around their
stems.

Air circulation

Remember those drainage holes just below the

floor of the soil partition and the water chamber?
They also serve a second function. As there is a gap
between the water and soil, this also lets in air and
makes sure the plant roots get plenty of air.

With self watering containers the plants get just the

right amount of water and air they need, as the
soil soaks up the water from the chamber below.
Depending on the size of your container and the
depth of your water container, this will mean,
except possibly in the height of Summer, the plants
will survive quite happily for a few days without the
water chamber needing to be topped up.

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Size of containers

Here we come to an important point and that is the

actual size of the container you use. Although, most
smaller containers (bucket size) are suitable for
growing most flowers and herbs, vegetables will
need something bigger.

Square containers use small amounts of space

more efficiently than round pots. You will have to
make sure that the container you use will hold
enough soil for the plant to develop and mature
without becoming pot bound. Vegetables will
appear to grow fairly well in a container that is to
small for them but when it comes to harvest time,
you will find your fruit stunted, where the plant has
not had enough room to develop fully.

How many vegetables to plant

To give you a rough idea of the size of container

you will need, commercial producers of self
watering containers claim that a box approximately
2.5 feet long by one foot high and one foot wide,

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(which will hold about 2.5 cubic feet of soil), will be
suitable for either;
10 spinaches
8 Lettuces
6 Cabbages
4 Cucumbers
2 Tomato plants

This should allow you to calculate the size and

number of containers you will need, depending on
the size of space you have available to grow your
crops.

How to use the containers

First and most importantly, you must use potting

compost for the “wicks” and if possible for the rest
of the container. Just filling it up with soil from the
garden will not allow the water to move as well. If
you want to make your own you can use a mixture
of roughly 45% peat (or peat substitute) to 45%
compost and 10% pearlite.

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If you are worried about the soil falling into the
water chamber below, you can always lay down a
piece of breathable landscape fabric before you fill
up the containers. This is often sold in garden
centres as a weed suppressant or contact your local
landscape gardener, explain what you are doing
and see if they have any off cuts. If you are selling
decorated and planted up self watering containers,
this is great way to make business contacts.

Remember, that any container will be much heavier

once you have added the water and potting
compost so make sure the container is in or near
its final resting place. The siting of the container
will depend on the needs of the plants you are
putting in them but, as a general rule, they will do
best where they will get at least 6 to 8 hours sun a
day and are sheltered from any winds or draughts.

After planting up the container as you would

normally, water the plants from above for the first
3 or 4 days to let them settle in. Then begin
topping up the water reservoir using the water
tube. Stop filling the chamber when you see the
water staring to dribble out of the overflow holes in
the side of the container. This will tell you that the
water chamber is filled to its capacity.

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Some of the plant roots will now start to travel
downwards in search of water while other will
gather around the plant base, nearer the surface to
supply the plants with nutrients.

If you believe the container will suffer from

evaporation, and this is often caused more by wind
than sun, you must consider using a mulch of some
sort. This can be a plastic sheet, grit or something
organic like leaf mold.

By sheltering the soil around the surface of the

plant help keep the moisture in and keep the plants
a bit warmer early on and later in the year. This will
allow to start your crops earlier and extend the end
of your growing season into the autumn months
and even winter with the right crops and flowers.

One problem, you may have, depending on where

you live, is that of mosquitoes that lay their eggs in
stagnant water. If you introduce a spoonful of
cooking oil, such as olive oil or sunflower oil to your
water reservoir, it will prevent mosquitoes from
laying their eggs. However, since it will lay in a
light film on the surface of the water, it will tend to

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get wash out of the drainage holes if you overfill
the water reservoir to often. This means you will
have to occasionally add a bit more oil.

The air flow through the drainage holes should

prevent any fungi from growing, but you can also
add a piece of charcoal to the water reservoir, a
barbecue briquet will do, when assembling your self
watering container to keep the water sweet.

Regulating the water flow

If you want the maximum amount of water to soak

upwards from the water chambers through the soil
wicks, you must make sure that the soil in these
wicks is compressed. Compressed soil causes the
water to flow more easily.

On the other hand, if you wish to reduce the flow of

water into the upper soil container, you can do this
by mixing some grit or small stones into the soil of
the wick. This will slow down the capillary action
and reduce the amount of wetness in the bottom of
the container. This is handy for certain root

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vegetable crops, if your container is not deep
enough and you think their feet may be standing in
wet soil.

Keeping a journal

We all learn by experience and you will find it

extremely helpful if you keep a garden journal and
record the statistics of each container you make.
This should include the size of the container, the
size of the soil chamber and the water reservoir,
how much soil and what mix you used. At the end
of the season you will find all this information
helpful for improving the performance the following
year.

End of the Season

At the end of the season, there is no need to
change the soil. Simply check to make sure the soil
is not compacted. If you have been growing
vegetables you will loosen the soil when you
remove the plants.

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Take away the top 3 inches of soil and replace it
with fresh compost. Add some fertilizer if you wish
and it is ready for replanting.
If the container is not going to be used over winter
you can always use the space to grow a green
manure crop like comfrey that you can dig in before
you plant in spring or harvest and add to your
compost bin.
In spring if you are planting vegetables try and use
a container that did not have them the previous
year, to help lessen the chance of disease.

Why we should use self

watering containers

I hope you can see the benefits of using this

system to grow your flowers and vegetables. It is
not just a case of making life easier and reducing
that terrible monotonous garden chore of watering,
sometimes three times a day in high summer. It is
not just about reducing the stress on your plants
and increasing their chances of a healthy life. There
is something else more important here at stake as
well, and it affects us all.

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For to long, most of us in the west have taken
water for granted, we turn on a tap and there it is,
as much as we want. Well all that is changing.
Demand on water in increasing at an alarming rate.
The growth in population, changing weather
patterns, evaporation due to rising temperatures,
lower rainfall are just some of the things that are
that are putting pressure on existing water
supplies. The demands for water to grow food and
simply sustain life are growing with every minute
that passes.

All those new towns and houses that are being

built, all need to be connected to the water mains.
The effects can already be seen as we try to extract
more and more water from our underground
reservoirs and rivers, which are simply not refilling
as fast as they used to, even a decade ago.

We suffer storms with torrential and devastating

record rainfall in short periods of time but overall
the long term yearly average of rainfall is dropping.
The low levels in our rivers means there is less
oxygen for the plants, fish and wild life they
support, increasing the risk of pollution and causing
many species to suffer decline.

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We have already experienced a few dry summers
and as these become more common, so will the
water saving measures, like hose pipe bans and
rationing. At the very least we will all eventually
have water meters in our homes. Some propose a
sliding tariff, so that the more water you use, the
more per gallon you pay for it.

At present, it has been estimated that every person

in the UK alone uses 75 gallons a day of fresh
water. If you leave a garden hose on for just an
hour, you will use over 200 gallons. We all need to
play our part in reducing the amount of this
wonderful natural resource that we squander.

What can you do?

For a start there is nothing better for plants and

topping up your self watering containers as
rainwater. Use water butts connected to the
downpipes from the gutters of your roof. Not only is
the rainwater you collect good for your plants, it is
also a free source.

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If you have other plants in the garden to water,
then try and do it after the sun has gone down in
the evenings. This will reduce the amount of water
that you normally loose to evaporation.

You know from using the self watering containers

about the bi-root system that plants develop so
remember it is best to water the roots rather than
the leaves.

Cut down plastic bottles and bury them in the

ground with the neck pointing towards the roots of
your plants. When you pour the water into these
upturned bottles, you will know that the water is
going where it is need.

Avoid using a sprinkler, it uses to much water and

most of it will end up on the foliage instead of the
lower roots where it is needed. Bury a seep hose in
amongst your plants, or convert an old hose pipe
by making small holes along it.

When you have the water in the ground make sure

it stays there and does not evaporate. Use mulches
to cover the ground around your plants and lock
the moisture in. If you must use a garden hose,

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make sure it has a tap or trigger gun at the
business end.

It is important that you can turn the water off when

you are not using it, without having to walk back to
the source tap at the other end, to turn it off.
Check that there are no small leaks in your hose. If
there are, repair them or get a new hose and use
the old one as a seep hose. Even small holes loose
gallons over an hour.

Finally

Please think about sharing your experiences with

others, whether with friends, family, neighbours or
work colleagues; Or through the internet with blogs
or just dropping me an email.
Encouraging people to grow their own food or make
the world more beautiful place with flowers gives
you the opportunity to change lives for the better

best wishes
Greenjackdavey

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Save a fortune on buying compost for your
containers by turning your own kitchen waste into
Black Gold.

The D.I.Y. Wormery Manual

will show you how to build a
range of wormeries and worm
farms, from simple stacked
boxes to expensive cottage
beehive style ones, to use or
sell.
Rich Worm compost can turn
your containers into growing
powerhouses using kitchen
waste you usually throw away.

Find out more about the D.I.Y Wormery Manual here!

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