FWD:

Well the biggest problem with FWD vehicles is understeer. You want to turn but the car just
goes straight off the road. Try mechanical grip options ie: Tires, springs, shocks, anti-roll bars
and the like. Make the rear stiffer than the front: higer rear tire pressures, stiffer anti-roll bar...
Now what you get is a tail happy, loves to slide car. Now we all know that sliding is not the
fastest way thru a corner, so what do we do... Increase rear negative camber to approx 1.5-2.0
degrees and front to -0.7 to -1.0. The increase on camber allows the rears to be flatter on hard
cornering giving you more grip and a less tail-happy car!

RWD:
RWD vehicles are the opposite of FWD cars. eg: Oversteer: You want to turn the car but it turns
too much. More often then not you'll go off the road ass-end first, staring @ oncoming traffic.
Make the front stiffer than the rear. Use mechanical grip devices to get this effect. Remember
opposite from FWD. So swap over the camber settings: -1.5 to -2.0 dgrees front, -0.7 to -1.3
degrees rear. This will allow you to maintain control even when the slide gets out of hand.

AWD:
Well AWD vehicles usually suffer from the same understeer problems of a FWD car. This comes
from the front wheels doing most of the work and thus have to spread the available traction to
steering, brakes and accel. Note AWD vehicles need alot of Diff tuning to perform perfectly and
I'll leave it up to you to find the best setup for your driving style. As AWD cars are more
forgiving to mistakes in driving and tuning you should be able to come up with a good setup on
your own.

NOTE: All numbers are subjective to driving style. I, in no way accept resposibility for your car
steering like sh|t. These # are just ballpark figures as no 2 cars or drivers are the same.
Remember to make small changes between tuning sessions, and DRIVE THE CAR
YOURSELF. It doesn't matter what the benchmark says, it only matters how it handles TO
YOU!! Good luck and happy tuning !!

good post , but a few inaccuracies (sp??)

The CC8S is a very powerful car, especially when modified, so it's handling under throttle will
be tricky even with really good settings. Here are my settings for the Koenigsegg CC8S, fully
modified, which work pretty nicely to keep it controllable, IMO...

Tires: front 27 / rear 27

Gears: final 4.15 / 1st 2.63 / 2nd 1.93 / 3rd 1.43 / 4th 1.07 / 5th 0.80 / 6th 0.61

Camber: front -1.0 / rear -1.0

Toe: front 0.1 / rear -0.2
Caster: 5.6

1
Anti-Roll Bars: front 25.0 / rear 25.0

Springs: front 678.4 / rear 553.4

Ride Height: front 3.5 / rear 3.5

Damping (bump): front 14.5 / rear 15.0

Damping (rebound): front 15.0 / rear 14.0

Braking: front 55% / power 110% / 1637lbs.

Differential: accel 70% / decel 70%

MORE SALEEN S7

Making the front springs super stiff will not allow the weight of the car to transfer to the turning
wheels during off-throttle cornering. The stiffer the front end of the car, the more it will
understeer into the corner, which is immediately followed by throttle oversteer when the front
end finally starts to turn. Just go back to the default settings, use 32 psi all the way around, 55%
accel/decel, and soften the rear springs to about 75% instead of 100% stiffness. Leave everything
else alone and take a test drive around maple valley short, you should be able to take that first
sweeper at a comfortable speed if you DON'T FLOOR IT. Use your right finger very delicately
when driving that car, try to use about 50% throttle immediately after the apex and most
importantly, WAIT UNTIL THE CAR IS POINTED STRAIGHT before you slam on the gas.
You CANNOT brake and turn at the same time in the game, especially with a MR supercar like
the S7. The car has to be stable through long sweepers or you will be desperately fighting it
through each turn.

Good tips on the Saleen in this thread! Thanks! Yesterday I put the Saleen for some extended
tests and I've got a magnificent car after tuning. It doesn't want to spin out anymore (except on
the oval, use the Pagani for a sweet voctory!) and is understeering to the point that I can
accelerate full throttle out of most corners. It's a dreamcar!

Soften up the back springs/bump settings en stiffen up the front. It looks like switching the
default front/back settings is a good place to start. The problems of this car are the result of the
magnificent turning abilities. The back has a lot of trouble following the front end. Fix the front,
then you can control the back!

Quote:
Originally Posted by '93TurboD
I'm with Airscape on this one, the topic is too general. I'll give it a shot anyway...

2
FWD:
Well the biggest problem with FWD vehicles is understeer. You want to turn but the car just goes
straight off the road. Try mechanical grip options ie: Tires, springs, shocks, anti-roll bars and the
like. Make the rear stiffer than the front: higer rear tire pressures, stiffer anti-roll bar... Now
what you get is a tail happy, loves to slide car. Now we all know that sliding is not the fastest way
thru a corner, so what do we do... Increase rear negative camber to approx 1.5-2.0 degrees and
front to -0.7 to -1.0. The increase on camber allows the rears to be flatter on hard cornering
giving you more grip and a less tail-happy car!!!
ok.. understeer in a FWD car is due to the weight bias over the front wheels..and due to the fact
the front wheels are both putting power down and handling cornering forces. Tires only have so
much grip and you're asking them to do 2 jobs. generally to combat the understeer, the easisest
way is to put more negative camber on the front wheels.... not the rear... more on the rear would
only exaggerate the understeer. Also stiffening the rear bar helps. generally (what im running on
my car) 1.5 degrees negative on the front and a bit less than 1 on the back. a bit stiffer rear bar
and stiffer springs. And generally you can have a car with neutral balance i.e. in static cornering
it neither under or oversteers, but under power it will still understeer pretty much no matter what
you do, due to the front wheels being overtasked. the only real way to combat this is better tires...
but you're never going to totally eliminate the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by '93TurboD
RWD:
RWD vehicles are the opposite of FWD cars. eg: Oversteer: You want to turn the car but it turns
too much. More often then not you'll go off the road ass-end first, staring @ oncoming traffic.
Make the front stiffer than the rear. Use mechanical grip devices to get this effect. Remember
opposite from FWD. So swap over the camber settings: -1.5 to -2.0 dgrees front, -0.7 to -1.3
degrees rear. This will allow you to maintain control even when the slide gets out of hand.!!!
Ok really rwd cars understeer from the factory also... they dont naturally oversteer as you still
have the weight bias in the front (thats what is the main component of under or oversteer) you
only get oversteer under power. Now really you still want the same general settings as on FWD...
you want more camber on the front as the fact that those are the wheels that steer... camber helps
there and is less of a detriment than on fwd due to the fact those front wheels are only steering in
this case. but this time under power you get a more balanced car, although you get into oversteer
under power instead of unending understeer

Quote:
Originally Posted by '93TurboD
AWD:
Well AWD vehicles usually suffer from the same understeer problems of a FWD car. This comes
from the front wheels doing most of the work and thus have to spread the available traction to
steering, brakes and accel. Note AWD vehicles need alot of Diff tuning to perform perfectly and
I'll leave it up to you to find the best setup for your driving style. As AWD cars are more forgiving
to mistakes in driving and tuning you should be able to come up with a good setup on your

3
own..!!!
all i have to say is have fun tuning that thing ... but yeah, generally you want to act like its a
fwd

Quote:
Originally Posted by '93TurboD
NOTE: All numbers are subjective to driving style. I, in no way accept resposibility for your car
steering like sh|t. These # are just ballpark figures as no 2 cars or drivers are the same.
Remember to make small changes between tuning sessions, and DRIVE THE CAR YOURSELF. It
doesn't matter what the benchmark says, it only matters how it handles TO YOU!! Good luck and
happy tuning !!
and werd on that... tune tune and tune more.

Yes, I will agree that max G's on the skidpad isn't necessarily going to make the car handle how
you want it to. It doesn't take into account soooo many factors of your car's setup. But I firmly
believe this is a good way to get your setup started, and firmly disagree with making large tire
pressure adjustments to "cure" handling ills.

The grip of a tire is influenced by many parts of the car setup (dampers, springs, aero, weight
distribution, + many, many more) but when you combine all of those factors, it comes down to 2
things:
1. Temperature of the tire
2. Shape of the contact patch
All car setup adjustments influence #1 and #2. But if you isolate all of those variables and just
look at the tires, you need to get the pressure and the tire's orientation with the ground correct in
order to best make use of the tire's temp and contact patch.

The benchmark test helps you find a starting point for tire pressure. For a given chassis setup,
doing a DOE (design of experiments - which in this case woud be: run benchmark, adjust
pressure; run benchmark, adjust pressure; etc. in a logical manner) to maximize G's is a good
start. What you are effectively doing is finding the optimum contact patch (and possibly tire
temp, depending on how the physics is modeled) for the current car setup and suspension
geometry you are running.

If your car is under/oversteering on the track after you have maximized G's (or contact patch, if
you'd like!) on the skidpad, attack it with arb's or springs or dampers or weight distribution or
whatever. Doing it by using tire pressures other than the ones that you found gave you the
optimum contact patch is just throwing away grip by sacrificing optimum contact patch. If
you change alignment (camber/toe/caster), better make sure your pressures are still good,
because you just changed the shape of the contact patch. So it's back to your DOE again...

This is a fun discussion!

SALEEN HELP!

4
If you can adjust the caster, put more into the car for the oval track. I believe it's marked as
positive caster in the game (lean the top towards the back of the car). This will help with straight
line stability. Stock cars and drag racers run a lot of caster to help keep the front end stable (takes
more effort to turn the wheel).

If you have the fully adjustable Limited Slip, put it at 100 for accel., and at least 90 on decel (100
if you really jump off the throttle in the turns). The Saleen will still have enough hp to spin if you
jump on the throttle, but if you're smooth, at least the inside wheel won't start spinning. You can
also really soften up the rear roll bar and a little bit on the rear spring to get weight transfer to the
rear wheels.

Raising the ride height will only help if you can be really smooth with steering inputs. Gradual
weight transfer can keep the car planted, but if you really move the wheel around, it can get the
car loose in a hurry. It will also kill the top end if the game is true to life. Putting rake in the car
only really helps at lower speeds. Over 200mph like the Saleen is hitting, and when you lift off
the throttle, the back end has no weight over the rear wheels, causing a loose condition (In the
replay, the friction circles will be small under braking or when coming off the gas).

Try those out and see what they do for you.

The S7 and S7R can be tamed with high levels of downforce, softer rear springs with lower
damping/rebound rear rates, 32-34 psi slicks, and most importantly, accel/decel settings with
good throttle control. Just because it has high stock cornering/braking ratings doesn't mean you
can floor it on unbanked sweepers and corner exits. Keep in mind that the S7 makes tremendous
amounts of downforce in a wind tunnel without the throttle variable. I mean it makes sense that a
575hp MR supercar will get a little loose when you stomp on the gas at 120mph in the middle of
a sweeper. I'd suggest making the rear springs/rear anti-roll settings a little lower (pay much
attention to rear anti-roll) to reduce oversteer in sweepers. You'll have to experiment with the
accel/decel settings to get a feel for how the car will behave at 75-100% throttle when leaving
the corner, try to keep them somewhat close together so the rear end doesn't have to make a huge
dynamic change during corner exit. If you have the S7R and are racing the S7 in the 600hp open
or S-class events, try to mimic the factory S7R settings on the S7 and go from there. Of course
the anti-roll won't be as stiff, but it will give you an idea of where you should be headed if you're
upgrading an S7. You have to teach yourself not to quickly slam on the gas as you would
normally do when exiting a turn in most other cars, you gotta be ridiculously gently, almost to
the point where it takes all of your concentration just to control your right finger. Don't forget to

BENCHMARK!!

5
Anti-Roll Bars effect how weight transfers from the inside tire to the outside tire in a corner. A
soft ARB allows more weight transfer/body roll from side/side than a stiffer ARB does. Stiffer
keeps the car flatter through a corner.

You might say that an ARB cannot really effect the total amount of the car's weight transferred
in a corner, and you would be right. The only real ways to cut down on weight transfer are
through lightening the car and lowering the CG. But what happens when you stiffen an ARB is
that that end of the car is more resistant to weight transfer, so the other end of the car ends up
transferring more. For example, stiffening the front means that the front won't transfer as much
weight from the inside front to to outside front tire in a corner, but because car's total amount of
weight transferred must stay the same, the rear tires end up transferring more weight from inside
to outside.

So the ARB's effect on tuning is this: softer makes that end appear to stick better. According to
that logic, to cure understeer you would either soften the front or stiffen the rear. To cure
oversteer, either soften the rear or stiffen the front. My take on this is I would rather soften the
misbehaving end of the car than stiffen the end that is working OK.

There are limits to the extremes of soft/stiff you should go. Too stiff, and the car will be very
jumpy to steering inputs and won't take a set in the corners. Too soft, and the car will be very
slow in response to steering inputs and kind of 'flop' into a corner.

My aim for ARB settings on cars that don't have a lot of downforce is this: as stiff as I can get
them before the car either: A) gets too darty or B) is always 4-wheel drifting through corners. I
do this for many reasons that are specific to how I set up my spring rates, dampers, and ride
heights, but a couple of reasons that apply to everyone's setup and driving style for not being on
the soft side is this: your car needs to be very responsive to steering inputs so 1) you can slice
through traffic and 2) you don't get behind the car's reactions/behaviour going through fast
corners and esses.

Lower ride height has an effect similar to stiffer anti-roll bars, but really it is
doing something completely different. We know that less weight transferred
in a corner from the inside tires to the outside tires is good because it keeps
more weight on those inside tires and thus they provide the car with more
ultimate grip. So, before we go deeper, make sure you understand that less
weight transfer = better cornering.

Now, a lower ride height means you lower the center of gravity, which leads
to less weight transfer, which is good! Stiffer ARBs don't effect the

6
amount of weight transfer, they just change how (where) that
weight transfer takes place, NOT how much is transferred in total.
That is because weight transfer is dependant on the momentum and intertia
(which are results of forces acting on the car's mass) and some of the car's
geometry. In a given corner at a given speed and acceleration, the same car
with the same mass, COG height, track width, track length, and same aero
loads will transfer the same amount of weight no matter what springs,
dampers, roll bars, etc. are in the car. You can change where it transfers
with ARBs and springs, you can change how fast it transfers with dampers,
but you cannot change how much weight transfers by those means. The
only ways open to us in Forza to reduce weight transfer are 1)
reduce the car’s weight or 2) lower the car’s Center Of Gravity
(COG).

Let's say your car has a weight transfer of 100 kilos when you go in a
corner, 50 front and 50 rear. Stiffer front ARB may change it to 40 front 60
rear and make the car a little more understeery, but the total weight
transfer is still 100, and that cannot change unless you do what? 1) reduce
the car's weight or 2) lower the car's COG. So even if you put stiffer ARBs on
the back and front of our hypothetical car at the same time, weight transfer
will still add up to 100, just in different front / rear proportions. The roll of
the front and rear are 'coupled' such that a change in one effects the other.
That is why, for an understeering car, you could lower the front ARB stiffness
or raise the rear ARB stiffness and get similar results from either.

In real life, ARBs play a role in the spring rate of the car (springs resist suspension
movement, and so do ARBs), and through that a role in the oversteer/understeer balance of
a car and the way a car responds to direction change (steering input). In Forza, most people
will keep the settings near the default and change them a little to get the balance they
desire, and that is an efficient way to tune your car. But you can also use the ARBs in
configurations much different from stock if you are also changing the default spring, ride
height, and damper settings, which if done correctly should mean more cornering power for
your auto!

**PLEASE NOTE: All setups posted will require some tweaking for your comfort, so don't
expect a perfect setup**

Car: 1999 Toyota #27 GT-One TS020

Class: P1
Speed: 7.9
Accel: 9.3
Brake: 9.7
Corner: 9.6
Rarity: 10.0
Aids Used: STM, ABS, & TCS

7
Tire Pressure F/R: 28/28

Gear Ratios:
Final Drive: 3.60
1st: 2.90
2nd: 1.90
3rd: 1.40
4th: 1.05
5th: 0.85
6th: 0.70

Camber F/R: -1.1°/0.7°

Toe F/R: 0.1/-0.1°
Caster: 4.6°

Anti-Roll Bar F/R: 26.3/22.3

Springs F/R: 459.5/539.4

Ride Height: N/A

Bump Damping F/R: 4.6/5.4

Rebound Damping F/R: 9.1/10.7

Aero F/R: 400/500

Brake Balance: 44%

Brake Pressure: 110%
E-Brake: 950 (in case you decide to use a clutch kick)

Differential Accel: 75%

Differential Decel: 25%

This car drives acceptionally well on Nurburgring.

Shelby Mustang
This a heavy car with alot of power, and limited traction. The key to handling in a car like this is
weight transfer.

Soften your springs - Try some 300-400lb springs all around. The car will dive and squat a bit
but this is what you want,....the extra weight will help traction at that end of the car.

Dampers - Stiff bound, soft rebound works for me.

8
Sway bays - Loosen the rear bar to about 5-10, and tighten the front to about 15-20 or more. The
car will understeer alot more but it help counteract your throttle oversteer tendancies. It will also
help you realize that you need to slow down alot more to take your corners in this car.

Loosen the diff. - It won't help your acceleration too much but the car will be less likely to on-
throttle oversteer.

Gearing - Tune your gears a little out of optimum/peak to reduce the torque/power points. A
slightly taller gear set will hurt your times a touch but the cars power will be easier to control.

Tire pressures - Rear wheel spin will increase rear tire pressures and throw off traction. Tune
your rear tire pressures down lower than normal to compensate and maintain optimum grip.

You should also tune your suspension heights, static camber, and caster settings for this softer
suspension.

Good luck!

Ford Cerebbera Speed 12

Ok, ignore the previous post. I was waaayyy off. Guess my memory isn't what it used to be
Here's my actual settings for the Cerbera Speed 12:

Tires F/R: 30/28

Alignment
Camber F/R: -0.6/-0.8
Toe F/R: 0.1/-0.4
Caster: 5.7
ARB F/R: 11.6/14.0
Springs: 382.7/377.6
Dampers
Bounce F/R: 4.0/3.8
Rebound F/R: 7.7/7.2
Differential
Accel: 59%
Decel: 68%

Gearing is left up to you. I find 2nd gear is too short so I lengthen it a bit to fit the pattern. Other
than that final drive adjustments should be fine for longer/shorter tracks.
__________________

Stingray
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlownSS454
I got a 1967 Corvette Stingray 427. It has the C5R 427 swap in it. It's making 791hp & 751 ft/lbs.

9
weighing in at 2,486 lbs. The weight in the front of the car is rated at 47%. By the looks of the
numbers, it moves. But here's my problem. I need some help with getting it to stick to the road.
Here's my current setup. I have it setup for it to be a racer and for it to be a 4 speed car. The car
is incredibly fast, just nowhere near agile:

Tires:
Pressure F/R: 30psi/27psi
-----------------------------
Gearing:
Final Drive: 3.55
1st: 2.40
2nd: 1.40
3rd: 1.00
4th: 0.75
-----------------------------
Alignment:
Camber F/R: -0.7°/-1.0°
Toe F/R: 0.1°/-0.3°
Caster: 5.7°
-----------------------------
Anti-Roll:
Anti-Roll Bar F/R: 7.3/6.5
-----------------------------
Springs:
Springs F/R: 420.5 lbs\in / 451.6lbs\in
Ride Height F/R: 7.5in./9.5in.
-----------------------------
Damping:
Bump Damping F/R: 4.7/2.7
Rebound Damping F/R: 4.7/5.3
-----------------------------
Aero:
Downforce: N/A
-----------------------------
Braking:
Balance: 50%
Pressure: 100%
E-Brake: 1,865lbs.
-----------------------------
Differential:
Accel: 67%
Decel: 67%

If anything needs to be adjusted, I don't care, as long as it's not my gear ratios. If someone could
help, that would be awsome. Thanks.

10
-Rich

P.S: I'm new to the forums, not to Forza.

If you are connected to Xbox Live while in "Free Run" mode, then go to the track you want to
race on (e.g. Nürburgring), then highlight the car class (for the GT3 Cup that is R-class), then hit
"Y" and you should see the detailed view of the xbl leaderboards. The top drivers have a little
office clip next to their entry. Scroll down to the best GT3 Cup time, highlight it, hit "A" and
select download setup. You can then save the setup and load it to your car.

That is one way of finding a setup for your GT3 Cup, but I am not sure of how many leaderboard
entries there are for the GT3 Cup, since it is GTS-class and mixed up with all the P1 cars. There
might not even be a setup to download.

As for your M3 GTR, please describe under what conditions the rear breaks out. What part of the
turn. Even better would be the exact turn on the track, because there are some turns on
Nürburgring where you want to be very easy on the gas upon corner exit.

Here is my general purpose setup for the SCCA Cadillac CTS-V.

Note: It may need some tweaks to work with your driving style so don't expect perfection.

Make/Model: Cadillac CTS-V

Class: GTS
Ratings: Spd:6.7 Accel:7.5 Brake:6.2 Corner:6.1 Rarity:9.7
HP/TQ: 500/420
Weight: 2881lbs
Aids Used: N/A

Body
Front Bumper: N/A
Rear Bumper: N/A
Side Skirts: N/A
rear Spoiler/wing: N/A
RollCage: N/A

engine tuning: -
intake & exhaust: -
fuel & egnition: -
turbo: -
supercharger: -
intercooler: -

11
engine swap: -

suspension: -
brakes: -
transmission: -
clutch & flywheel: -
weight reduction: -
differential: -

tires: -

Setups

Tires(psi) F/R: 28/28

gearing
FD: 4.06
1: 2.60
2: 1.70
3: 1.26
4: 1.00
5: 0.84
6: 0.72

camber F/R: -1.0/-0.6

toe F/R: 0.1/-0.1
caster: 4.6

anti roll F/R: 16.0/17.0

springs F/R: 520.0lbs/480.0lbs

ride height F/R: -

bump damping F/R: 4.5/3.5

rebound damping F/R: 8.5/8.0

downforce F/R: 165/165

brakes
bias: 43%
pressure: 110%
e-brake: Stock

differential

12
accel: 65%
decel: 25%

Observations on Suspension Tuning

I enjoy a good neutral-handling car, so I've looked around a bit to find a way to get just that.
When you purchase the professional suspension, the settings are a little strange...

1. Front & rear spring stiffness are backwards. They're normally set to exactly the balance of the
car (if car is balanced 55/45, then springs are balanced 55/45), when they should be exactly
opposite (if the car is balanced 55/45, then springs should be 45/55). Just switch the two and
you'll notice an immediate improvement in handling, far more neutral than the previous settings.
I also tend to increase the spring settings 10-30%.

2. The dampers are set extremely soft and always have the front bound equal to the front rebound
and the rear bound is both less than the front values and half that of the rear rebound. Once you
correct the spring settings, you should bump these up significantly (10+) and even them out in
order to get a good starting point. These still need to be tuned in general for neutral handling (I
tend to increase understeer in order to correct oversteer, but your preferences may vary) and
should be tuned to account for the levels of bumpiness on each track.

3. Anti-roll bars are set extremely low. I prefer significantly increased ARB settings over the
standard settings, but your preferences may vary if you like to use body roll.

Anyone else had similar findings?

After some messing around this past week, I can say that #1 isn't absolutely true for all cars,
though #2 and #3 still stand. For some rear drive cars with heavier front ends, the springs are
strongest at the front. If you just swap the settings you'll turn even the weakest FR into an
oversteering monstrosity. You might be able to correct this with damper and anti-roll bar settings
and get a better-handling car out of the deal, but I tend to leave the springs as they are or increase
their strength proportionately. Okay, I tend to avoid FR cars, too.

With the professional suspension, the stock spring settings for the cars will perfectly mirror their
weight distribution. If the car has a 52/48 balance, the springs will be balanced 52/48. In my
experience, I get neutral handling (damper & ARB settings aside) when I change the springs to
48/52 for a 52/48 car. The difference is literally like night and day.

I'm going to look at my MR cars today to see how they look, just to be certain, but both AWD
and FF cars do comply with #1, above.

HORSEPOWER VS. TORQUE

I've often heard it described that horsepower is how fast you hit a wall. Torque determines how
far you go through it.

I find that racing in the real world, topping out first or second gear is pretty useless. I usually like

13
to shift them a little early, and let the torque do the work. Once I get in the higher gears (near 1:1
or overdrive even), rpm's are needed more than torque. More rpm's will equate to a higher top
speed for a given gear (if you have enough power to overcome coefficient of drag).

I realize this doesn't really answer your question like you'd like, but hopefully it gives a little
insight. As to whether it's true in Forza, well..... without that seat of the pants feel, it would be
pretty subjective.

Since we've established that horsepower is derived from torque through an equation, (torque x
rpm)/5250 = horsepower, we are able to caculate horsepower or torque as long as we know one
or the other and the rpm at which it was made.

Now for example, say engine A is makes a peak 400hp @ 6000rpms and engine B is makes a
peak 400hp @ 8000rpms. Using the formula above engine (in reverse), we know that engine A
makes 350ft.lbs of torque at 6000rpm and that engine B makes 262ft.lbs. of torque at 8000rpm.

Here enters the complicated part called gearing. Since engine B has a higher peak horsepower, it
can use a lower gear ratio (higher numerically) to multiply the amount of torque getting from the
wheels to the ground. Example, engine A is in a car with a rearend gear ratio of 3.42, engine B is
in an identical car except that the rearend gear ratio is 4.56 so they are both at peak hp at the
same speed. Now say both cars are traveling at the same speed and are both at their peak
horsepower. If all other variables are equal (and for the sake of arguement lets say they are) then
while engine A is applying 350ft.lbs of torque to the ground (no drivetrain loss for arguements
sake) at that same speed engine B has through gear multiplication 133% more torque (465ft.lbs)
to the ground at that same speed. (for you math and engineering guru's I know my calculations
probably aren't correct but these are just examples to explain the point). To achieve this
percentage I just took the reargear ratio of the car for engine B and divided the reargear ratio of
engine A into it which equaled 133% increase.

Now lets say both cars have the same gear ratio's throughout. Since engine A has peak power at
6000rpms it will have to shift before engine B which peaks at 8000rpms so engine B can remain
in a given gear longer giving it that torque multiplication from the lower gear ratios. Example,
both cars are going 75mph and through gearing both engines are turning 6000rpms. While
engine A will have to shift to, lets say third, engine B can continue to 99mph before going to
third (again using that 133% difference). Most manufacturers will not do this because they can
take advantage of gearing which as previously mentioned increases torque output as horsepower
can not be multiplied since it is derived from torque. This increase in torque is what helps
accelerate the car quicker, so while having an engine that produces copious amounts of torque is
nice an engine that is suited to take advantage of gearing will accelerate better.

One might say well then why don't we all drive cars with formula 1 engines. It may seem great to
get all that torque through gearing but reliablity comes into play as well as drivability. Many
engines that make high rpm horsepower suffer from low rpm torque, but not all (alla, increased
displacement). Weight also plays a roll in that its takes more low end torque to get a heavier
vehicle moving. So most manufacturers compromise on this depending on what they want the
engine to accomplish.

14
Hope that made sense as I am not great at explaining things.

DIFFERENTIALS
We need a differential because (a) there is a distance between the left and right drive wheels and
(b) the left and right drive wheels are physically connected by the drive axles. When going round
a corner, the wheel on the outside must travel a greater distance than the wheel on the inside, and
therefore the outside wheel must rotate faster (the smaller the radius of the corner {or the greater
the distance between the wheels} the greater 'differential action' is needed).

Suppose we had a solid rear axle ('spool') with no differential (both accel and decel set at 100),
so both wheels are forced to spin at the same speed. In a corner the outside wheel will be the
more heavily loaded (and thus have more grip) and it will be the one that dictates the speed of
the axle. The inside wheel will be forced to rotate faster than it really needs to because it is
travelling a smaller arc, so it will spin, which leads to a loss of grip, overheating itself, and
wasted rubber (tire wear).

On the other hand, a fully 'open' differential (both values set at 0%) will not do the job well
either, as they are designed such that they distribute the torque evenly between the driven wheels
when travelling in a straight line. This is fine in a straight line until one wheel starts to slip or
spin, at which point an open diff will apply the total drive force available will be just twice the
force available from the tire with the least grip. It does the same thing while cornering... applies
the total drive torque to the least laden (inside) wheel.

On a FWD car then, you have one diff that controls the amount of 'locking' or 'differential action'
between the front 2 wheels. On a RWD car, there is one diff for the rear 2 wheels. On AWD, you
need one diff for each set of wheels, plus a center diff that controls the torque split front to rear.

So, when we adjust our differential, we have 2 settings: One that adjusts the amount of
differential action / torque split when accelerating, and one for deceleration. If you increase
locking in acceleration, you have maximim straight-line grip from the driven tires. However, you
don't allow the tires to turn at different speeds while accelerating out of a corner, so the inside
spins at the same speed as the outside tire, and you end up with oversteer on a RWD and
understeer on a FWD (when applying power at corner exit). When slowing down, increasing
decel gives the best straight-line braking ability, but since it makes both the tires spin at the same
speed, it causes the inside to lose traction if turning, leading to oversteer in a RWD and
understeer in a FWD (when slowing down at corner entry).

For AWD, you have 2 diffs that behave as described above, but you also have a third 'center' diff
that splits drive torque between the front and rear axles. Putting more bias to the front makes the
car behave more like a FWD car, moving it to the rear makes it behave more like a RWD car.

Hope this helps!!!

This is from memory, so I may miss some stuff:

15
The telemetry screen that has four red circles on it is a visual of
the grip available at each tire, and the blue lines inside them are
the amount of grip you are actually asking the tire to produce.
This displays a more detailed brakedown of the "Friction Circle"
type telemetry from the "Body Acceleration" telemetry screen. If
you watch the red circles off the start line, the front ones will get
slightly smaller and the back ones will grow. That is because a
tire's grip is related to the amount of weight on that tire... more
weight = more grip, to an extent. So as you jump on the gas,
weight shifts backward, and the rear circles grow because your
rear tires have more grip. When you go into a corner, you will
also see the circles change size as weight shifts side-to-side. jump
over a curb, and the circles disappear if the tire leaves the
ground! The blue line shows how much you are asking of the tire
- if it is outside the red circle, it means you are pushing that tire
too hard and it has lost grip, so it is sliding. If you look at the
telemetry during a spin, the blue lines will be well outside the red
circles. If the blue line is inside the circle, it means that there is
more grip available, since the circle is the limit. You are using
your tires most effectively when the blue line is touching the red
circle.

Shiny Side Up!

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06/06/2005, 20:13 PM #4
Shiny Side Up! The suspension travel one is simple, it just shows you
Privateer where each corner of the car's suspension is in its
travel. When you are sitting still, each indicator should
be right in the middle. The middle is the static location
of the suspension, what you determine in the car setup
screen for ride height.

16
Status: Offline As you run around the track and accelerate, brake, turn,
Posts: 300 etc, the suspension moves up and down, and that's
Join Date: May 2005 what the bar graphs tell you. Ideally, you wouldn't want
to max it out or go minimum very often. If you are at
the max or min, the suspension can not absorb any
more bumps / weight distribution changes, so the car
doesn't behave nice and predictably any more.

You can control the suspension travel through ride

height, spring, and damper/shock adjustments. Springs
for the most part determine how difficult it is to
compress the suspension (stiffer/harder = more difficult
to move suspension), and shocks control the rate at
which the suspension moves (stiffer/harder =
suspension moves slower). Bump settings are for when
the tire is travelling upwards (when you first hit a bump
or curb, or when weight transfers to that end of the car,
for example what the front suspension does when you
start to brake). Rebound controls the tire when the tire
is moving downwards relative to the car, like what the
suspension is doing at the back of the car when you
slam the brakes and the nose of your car dives down.
Last edited by Shiny Side Up! : 06/06/2005 at 20:19 PM.

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06/06/2005, 20:15 PM #5
Shiny Side Up! The "Body Acceleration" telemetry screen is a diagram
Privateer commonly referred to as a "Friction Circle". Basically,
the circles represent g-forces. I think the first circle is
1.0g (actually, I think it might be the benchmark test
value for your car), the second is 1.25 or something,

17
 etc. Anyway, the diagram depicts the direction and
magnitude of acceleration the car is experiencing in any
given direction.

If you jump on the gas, the indicator will move forward

Status: Offline
on the screen to show that you are accelerating
Posts: 300
Join Date: May 2005 forward. The harder you are accelerating, the farther
out the indicator will go. Nail the brakes, and the
indicator will jump backwards. Turn L or R, and the
indicator will go sideways as necessary.

The better a racing driver is using his car, the farther

away from the center of the circle the indicator is. Each
car has a limit as to the acceleration possible while still
maintaining control. For example, if you car's upgrades
and suspension settings make its peak handling occur at
1.0g, anything less than that on the graph means you
are leaving some of the car's potential unused, and
anything more than that means you are sliding... which
isn't necessarily bad, as long as you are still in
control!!!!

Good racing drivers want to see the indicator move as

smooth and steady as possible (not jump all over the
place) and remain as far from the center of the graph as
possible while still remaining in control of the car. The
hardest thing to do is balance turning with braking or
acceleration, where the indicator is not purely straight
ahead/back or side/side, it is kind of on the diagonal...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Garasaki
This also means the tires on the inside have less weight on them. Less weight means smaller circles. So, its perfectly
acceptable, in fact it's desired, to have less weight = smaller circles = less grip available on the inside tires during
cornering.

Basically, at the heart of the matter is the fact that the force required to turn a car comes from the OUTSIDE tires
during a corner (ideally the front outside tire). The inside tires are simply along for the ride. In touring style racing,
its often common for the inside rear tire to simply stop spinning during a corner, as that tire has no weight on it
whatsoever.

So, the point is, by tuning to stop the behavior described (smaller circles on the inside tires during a corner), you are
actually making large strides in the wrong direction.

18
I must say that I completely (but respectfully!) disagree...

I don't believe it is desired to have less weight on the inside tires. That is why racing teams go to
great lengths to minimize weight transfer by adjusting ride height / center of gravity / track /
wheelbase, etc. It is also why oval cars put more static weight on the left side of their car than
they do on the right... in an attempt to keep the weight on the inside and outside tires as equal to
eachother as possible while cornering.

It is true (to a point) that a tire gains grip as it has more weight put on it. But an important thing
to realize is that the RATE of grip gain DECREASES as you put more weight on a tire. So a tire
that gains 50 lbs of lateral force (grip) when you increase the load from 500 to 550 lbs might
only gain 40 lbs when you increase the load from 550 to 600lbs.

So in a typical cornering situation, weight will transfer from the inside tires to the outside tires,
we are all comfortable with that idea. Because of that weight transfer, the outside tires have more
grip than they did before the car started turning. But the inside lost grip during this weight
transfer, and in fact, the INSIDE WILL LOSE MORE GRIP THAN THE OUTSIDE GAINED
(in a normal situation). Thus (typically), the more weight transfer you have, the more overall
grip you lose. Again, this is why racing teams fight weight transfer by:

1. Lowering the car's COG (we can do this in Forza by lowering ride height)
2. Lightening the car (done in Forza by weight reduction upgrades)
3. Lengthening the car's wheelbase (not an option for us in Forza)
4. Widening the car's track width (not an option for us in Forza)

If you think about it, this is why downforce is so effective. The forces put on tires due to weight
always add up to the same amount. With no aero, if your car weighs 1000kg, the weight on all
four tires is always going to add up to 1000kg (barring some funny circumstances). Any weight
transfer that results in more weight on any one tire leads to a loss in overall grip, for the reasons
discussed above. But the forces put onto tires due to aerodynamic loads are evenly split (if the
aero devices aren't broken and are tuned correctly!!!). This is true (for our purposes here,
anyway, although Adrian Newey would love to argue) even in a corner, despite the effects of
weight transfer on the mechanical forces acting on the tires.

An Example: Lets say we have a car with the same tires on each corner, and that each tire
provides lateral force as listed:
400lbs weight on tire = 550lbs "grip"
500= 673lbs "grip"
600=810lbs "grip"
700=900lbs "grip"
800=1005lbs "grip"
Note that as weight on the tire goes up, so does "grip", but grip goes up less and less with weight,
just as we discussed above...

19
A) A car with straight-line weights like this:
Front.....500.....500
Rear.....600.....600
"Grip" = 673+673+810+810 = 2966

B) And it enters a left-hand corner (no downforce) with 100lbs of weight transfer gives
front and rear:
Front.....400.....600
Rear......500.....700
Grip = 550+810+673+900 = 2933
So the lefts lost grip, and the rights gained grip, but overall grip went down from A ( 2933/2966
= 1.1% loss of grip due to weight transfer )

C) Same car with 200lbs downforce front and rear, straight line weights:
Front.....600.....600
Rear.....700.....700
Grip = 810+810+900+900 = 3420

D) Now, same corner as B) with 100lbs weight transfer front and rear and with 200lbs
downforce front and rear:
Front.....500.....700
Rear.....600.....800
Grip = 673+900+810+1005 = 3388
So the lefts lost grip, and the rights gained grip, but overall grip went down from C ( 3388/3420
= .9% loss of grip due to weight transfer ). Note that there is less loss of grip than in the non-
downforce example! Yay, aerodynamics!!!

Honda nsx r help {b-class)

07/06/2005, 19:26 PM #1
mercury21 Honda nsx r help {b-class)
Junior Member is there any way from keeping this car from fish tailing under
throttle.... i would love to use my car alot but i just can't keep it going
straight..... i've tried alot of things already... i lowerd the spring rate
from 592 in the rear down to 400 i put in a 12 rear sway bar and i have
the dampering maxed out on the top one and i have it lowerd all the
way on the bottum one {can't rember which is rebound and which is
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the stops}.....
Posts: 8
Join Date: Jun 2005

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07/06/2005,
#2
19:35 PM
'93TurboD Have you tried lowering the accel rating on your diff? My NSX is A1 class
[uR] Honda geek and I don't have this problem. Or perhaps your gearing is too short. It doesn't
sound like a damper problem to me.

Is the problem occuring on corner entry, apex or exit? Sounds like exit to me.
Try the diff and ratios and see if that helps you.

BTW: Welcome to FC hope we can help.

Status: Offline
Posts: 1,168 Also: Try the tuning resources link in my sig. Lots 'o' good tuning info in
Join Date: May there
2005 __________________
Location:
Toronto, Canada
Live!: g3TurboD

Thanx to -Drifter X- for the sweet pixel car

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07/06/2005, 22:54 PM #3
DarkKodiaK Quote:
Member
Originally Posted by mercury21
is there any way from keeping this car from fish tailing under
Status: Offline
throttle.... i would love to use my car alot but i just can't keep it going
Posts: 47
straight..... i've tried alot of things already... i lowerd the spring rate
Join Date: May 2005
from 592 in the rear down to 400 i put in a 12 rear sway bar and i
have the dampering maxed out on the top one and i have it lowerd all
the way on the bottum one {can't rember which is rebound and which
is the stops}.....

my nsx is in b class and it's a wonderful little car... on most tracks it

can hang with the 22b no problem.
i like to keep a bit of oversteer in my RWD cars... so i havent done
much modifications to the suspension (the car really dont need that)
I think all i did was just fix some of the tire pressure and added a wing
w/ a bit of downforce, not much though. Problem solved

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08/06/2005, 04:08 AM #4
mercury21 yes my car comes around on the cornor exit....
Junior Member

22
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Join Date: Jun 2005

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08/06/2005, 04:15 AM #5
racerfink With the extreme settings you've described, it sounds like the front is
Spurs sixth man pushing so bad on corner exit, the back wants to go while the front
doesn't. I'd reset to the default settings, and try smaller adjustments.
What tires are you using? What air pressure? Ride Height? Caster?
Camber?
__________________
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Status: Offline www.crosscanadianragweed.com
Posts: 127 g-tag: racerfink
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 08/06/2005, 04:47 AM #6
mercury21 if anything the front has to much grip becasue i have the front spoiler
Junior Member with downforce and a small front sway bar which makes it nice to get
into the cornors while under heavy braking on alpine ring which is
where i would like to use the car mostly for reason below the setups
stuff
setup is
Status: Offline Gearing.. final drive 5.55 1st 3.05 2nd1.96 3rd 1.43 4th 1.13 5th .91
Posts: 8 6th .72
Join Date: Jun 2005
tires pressures 33 front 35 rear camber all stock .5 front and rear toe
stock at .1 front and rear caster stock at 5.1

sway bar front is 5 and rear is 14

spring 411.9 front 400 rear ride hieght 3.9 bump front 4.3 rear 20
rebound 4.3 front rear 1

brakes 35% and 80% force areo 125 on the front and 85 on the rear

accel difference is 69% and 69 % decel....

so from that if you want to buy the car and mod it to a b class i have
bought all the upgrades like trans and brakes ect... y tires and one
weight reduction and for the engine just the tuning...

302 hrp 2,740 wieght and 245 torque... this car i have primarly tuned
to use on alpine ring since in my stealth i could only run 1.22.750 and
i lost to two nsx-r that ran low 1.18's
Last edited by mercury21 : 08/06/2005 at 04:51 AM.

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08/06/2005, 07:01 AM #7
racerfink Quote:
Spurs sixth man
Originally Posted by mercury21
if anything the front has to much
grip becasue i have the front
spoiler with downforce and a
Status: Offline small front sway bar which makes
Posts: 127 it nice to get into the cornors
Join Date: May 2005 while under heavy braking on
Location: Florida alpine ring which is where i would
Live!: Racerfink like to use the car mostly for
reason below the setups stuff
setup is

Gearing.. final drive 5.55 1st 3.05

2nd1.96 3rd 1.43 4th 1.13 5th .91
6th .72

tires pressures 33 front 35 rear

camber all stock .5 front and rear
toe stock at .1 front and rear
caster stock at 5.1

I'd go with 32 front, and 31 rear to

start. The rear is too stiff all around
on your settings, and this will help
some, but not as much as some of
the other settings. I'd go with -1.8
camber on the front, -0.7 on the
rear. I'd leave the toe alone for now,
it's more of a fine tuning thing
anyways, once you get everything
else close. Run about 5.6 on the
caster.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mercury21

25
sway bar front is 5 and rear is 14

spring 411.9 front 400 rear ride

hieght 3.9 bump front 4.3 rear 20
rebound 4.3 front rear 1

The rear sway bar is set WAY too

stiff (or maybe you dropped the
front a lot), and is a big reason why
the car oversteers on corner exit.
The engine is in the rear, so you
need to have a little more rear bar
than front, but not much. For that
same reason, your rear spring needs
to be stronger (higher) than the
front. A strong sway bar with a
weak spring will do all sorts of
weird things. Your rear bound
setting is too high as well. Does this
car buck like a bronco when hitting
bumps? Your rebound settings
should be slightly higher than the
bound settings at the same end of
the car. If that ride height is the
minimum height, that needs to go
up. 4.5 to 5 ought to be good,
depending on the bumpiness of the
track running on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mercury21
brakes 35% and 80% force areo
125 on the front and 85 on the
rear

accel difference is 69% and 69 %

decel....

so from that if you want to buy the

car and mod it to a b class i have
bought all the upgrades like trans
and brakes ect... y tires and one
weight reduction and for the
engine just the tuning...

26
 302 hrp 2,740 wieght and 245
torque... this car i have primarly
tuned to use on alpine ring since
in my stealth i could only run
1.22.750 and i lost to two nsx-r
that ran low 1.18's

The brake settings are mainly about

feel, but with the 35% front setting,
and the 1 rebound setting on the
rear, I'd be suprised if this car was
stable under braking. Lots of weight
transfer to the front under braking,
with most of the braking force on
the rear tires. If you were having
trouble with the fronts locking up
under braking, reducing the force
will give you more sensitivity. I like
to run about 55% front brakes, with
85% force on almost all my cars. I'd
run a little higher on the rear
downforce. This will help the rear
traction in fast corners, of which
there are a lot of at Alpine Ring. I
also like to run the LSD at higher
levels, but I like being able to rotate
the car using the throttle. I run at
85-90% on the accel side (100% for
most of the race cars), and at least
80% on the decel side.

I'd use the default settings button in

the garage settings to get things
back to normal, then apply these
settings. Hope they help.
__________________
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g-tag: racerfink

You said you would rather the car brake straight? Move

27
braking bias to the front a bit. This will stabilize the car
during breaking. Having it to the rear helps if you DO
brake too late and need some assistance in rotation, but
yes, the car will be more squirrely.

More positive Caster allows you to run less static negative

Camber. When you brake, you'll get the negative camber
needed, once you've dialed in your tuning properly. From
stock, try increasing the Caster positive a bit and see what
happens.

Toe OUT helps with turn in, so maybe you need .2 or

something there.

Sway bars help with under/over steer. If you want to

alleviate understeer, you'd soften the front and stiffen the
rear. TOO stiff though, and the car will want to lose grip.

Also remember, if you are braking IN the corner, you

entered too fast. You need to brake and release while you
are straight. You want the tires to do ONE thing at a time
as much as possible. You don't want them to have to brake
and try to corner, or in an FF, brake, corner, AND drive!

There are so many variables that you can tweak to

alleviate understeer, and stability - we could go on forever.
That's what's cool about having all the tuning options
though.
Last edited by Ocelot : 02/06/2005 at 21:50 PM.

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02/06/2005, 21:52 PM #5
Ocelot Blah, we told him two different things for Caster. I hope I am not

28
Senior Member wrong, though. Positive Caster (moving the top of the suspension
toward the driver) will give you more negative camber when you
transfer weight to the front, correct?

When you told him "try a lower static camber setting" did you mean to
set it more negative? Like, to -1.0 or something? Then, more negative
Caster....wouldn't that negate the negative Camber? Or does Caster
have to literally BE negative (below 0) in order to negate nagative
Status: Offline Camber?
Posts: 110
Join Date: May 2005 Maybe that is that exactly what you meant, so the tires are brought
Location: Santa Clarita, flatter against the road under braking?
CA Last edited by Ocelot : 02/06/2005 at 22:02 PM.
Live!: Ocelot77

S1 Skyline R34 Nur

Tires
F:27 psi
R:30 psi

Gearing
F.D:2.85
1st:3.83
2nd:2.37
3rd:1.69
4th:1.28
5th:1.02
6th:0.83

Alignment

Camber
F: -1.0
R: -1.0

Toe
Stock

Caster
5.7

Anti-Roll
F:9.1
R:8.4

29
Springs
F:583.2 lb/in
R:551.7 lb/in

Ride Height:
Lowered to the max.

Damping
STOCK

Downforce
NONE

Braking
Only change force pressure to 125%

Differential
STOCK

I am racing this setup right now, its working very well. The Skyline has exceptional handling.

Make/Model: Enzo Ferrari (again)

Class: S1 HP: 1,068 hp Torque: 748 ftlbs Weight: 2,708 lbs

Ratings
Speed: 10.0 Accel: 9.0 Brake: 5.8 Cornering: 5.8 Rarity: 10.0

Mods
Front Bumper: N/A
Rear Bumper: N/A
Sides: N/A
Spoiler: N/A
Roll Cage: N/A

Engine Mods
Engine: PRO
Intake: PRO
Fuel Ign.: PRO
Turbo: PRO
Supercharger: N/A
Intercooler: PRO
Engine swap: N/A

30
Handling Mods
Suspension: PRO
Brakes: PRO
Trans: PRO
Clutch: PRO
Weight Reduction:PRO
Tires: Racing Slicks
Differential: PRO

Tuning:
Tires(psi) F/R: 30/28

Gearing:
F.D.: 4.11
1st: 3.75
2nd: 1.87
3rd: 1.27
4th: 0.96
5th: 0.75
6th: 0.64

Alignment
-Camber F/R: -1.1/-0.6
-Toe F/R: 0.1/-0.1
-Caster: 5.7

Anti-roll Bar F/R: 12.5/24.2

Springs F/R: 402.8/496.0

Ride Height F/R: 3.9/3.9
Dampers (bump): 7.3/7.6
Dampers (rebound): 8.8/9.4

Downforce: -/-

Braking
Balance: 55%
Pressure: 110%
E-Brake: 2,032lbs

Diff Accel: 20%

Diff Decel: 11%

Tuned @ Nurburgring, but should work extremely well on New York Circuit and well on every
other track.

31
As promised, here's my 996 GT3 setup:

423hp, 315tq, 2738lbs

Suspension & Drivetrain mods are PRO
Weight redux: Pro, Tires: Stock
Eng tuning: Stock, Intake/Exhaust: Pro, Fuel/Ignition :Pro

All settings Front/Rear unless otherwise stated.

TIRES
32/38

GEARS
1-3.83
2-2.18
3-1.56
4-1.21
5-1.00
6-0.84
FD-3.46

ALIGNMENT
Camber: -1.2/-1.9
Toe: -0.4/-0.6
Caster: 4.7

ANTI-ROLL
15.5/17.0

SPRINGS
418.2/682.5
Ride height
4.0"/4.0"

DAMPING
bump: 7.6/15.2
rebound: 7.4/11.1

BRAKING
Balance: 45%
Pressure: 120%
E-Brake: 2,054 lbs

DIFF
Accel: 73%
Decel: 58%

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This car was tuned on Road America, and turned 2 laps in 4:46.825. I've found that GT3's are
very finnicky and may require some adjustment for other tracks. If the car is too twitchy on the
straights dial in a few clicks of positive caster.

EDIT: These settings are just a test, and cause HUGE oversteer on corner exit. More to come as I
test and tune.

ive tuned my GT3 to run 1:29.574 on Sunset Peninsula Infield.

Settings are :

Tire Pressures : (F) 26 psi (R) 26 psi

Forward Gears : (1) 2.93 (2) 1.75 (3) 1.31 (4) 1.03 (5) 0.85 (6) 0.75
Alignment : Camber (F) -0.5 (R) -0.5
Toe (F) 0.1 (R) 0.1
Caster 5.1
Anti Roll : (F) 31.4 (R) 30.7
Springs : (F) 509.2 (R) 509.2
Ride Height : Lowered to 3.5in on front and rear
Bump Damping : (F) 3.3 (R) 5.4
Rebound Dumping : (F) 6.6 (R) 10.7
Braking Balance : 50%
Total Brake Pressure : 100%
E Brake : 2.054
Differential : Accel 85% Decel 15%

If anyone can tip me on how to improve this monster then let me know! cheers

Im equipped with all pro parts, pro weight reduction and stock tires.
Installed pro engine tuning.

Alright, the 'Stock' settings posted above cause MAJOR understeer. After
about an hour of tuning I've come up with this setup. Although it oversteers
slightly, the positive caster allows for an easy(er) recovery. Might I also add
this is the only setup so far that I could run several hotlaps back 2 back w/o
going off @ Silverstone. Best time (so far) 1:55.795... LMK if that's even
good (no XBL) and if you've beaten it on Silverstone in an A1 GT3. If you
have post your setup. It would be much appreciated.

Here goes...
Tires F/R: 36/40
Alignment
-camber F/R: -1.7*/-2.1*
-toe F/R: 0.2*/0.3*

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-caster: 5.3*
ARB F/R: 11.2/17.0
Springs F/R: 418.0/658.8
Ride ht F/R: 4.0/4.0
Dampers bump F/R: 7.6/14.4
" rebound F/R: 10.1/16.4
Brakes
-bal: 40%
-press: 118%
-e-brake: stock

Diff Accel/Decel: 50%/66%

ENZO SETUP
Here is a general purpose setup for a S1 Ferrari Enzo
Note: It may need some tweaks to work with your driving style so don't expect perfection.

Make/Model: Ferrari Enzo

Class: S1
Ratings: Spd:10.0 Accel:9.0 Brake:5.8 Corner:5.8 Rarity:10.0
HP/TQ: 1068/784
Weight: 2708lbs
Aids Used: N/A

Body
Front Bumper: -
Rear Bumper: -
Side Skirts: -
Rear Spoiler/wing: -
Hood: -
RollCage: -

engine tuning: pro

intake & exhaust: pro
fuel & egnition: pro
turbo: pro
supercharger: -
intercooler: pro
engine swap: -

suspension: pro
brakes: pro
transmission: pro

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clutch & flywheel: pro
weight reduction: pro
differential: pro

tires: slicks

Setups

Tires(psi) F/R: 28/28

gearing
FD: 3.08
1: 3.16
2: 2.18
3: 1.57
4: 1.19
5: 0.94
6: 0.76

camber F/R: -1.0/-0.6

toe F/R: 0.1/-0.1
caster: 4.6

anti roll F/R: 11.0/6.0

springs F/R: 480lbs/650lbs

ride height F/R: 4.2/4.2

bump damping F/R: 4.0/5.0

rebound damping F/R: 7.7/10.2

downforce F/R: -

brakes
bias: 43%
pressure: 110%
e-brake: Stock

differential
accel: 60%
decel: 25%

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