Valve Seals DIY

There are lots of notes and cautions throughout this

DIY. This is a very delicate procedure, so work slowly
and patiently, and get help from an experienced gear
head if you are unsure of any procedures. Do this at
your own risk.

The only pictures in this DIY are of the valve seal

replacement procedures. This DIY assumes that you
have a decent amount of knowledge regarding most
components in the engine compartment.

Parts Required
1. Camshaft seals (2 seals)
2. Valve seal: 12 intake and 12 exhaust. Get two extra of each, just in case you
lose or damage any new seals. Note: Intake valves have silver colored
springs, and exhaust valve seals have black colored springs
3. Valve keepers: The existing keepers will be reused, but get a couple extra, just
in case you lose any keepers.
4. Valve cover kits (2 kits): Includes cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, and cover
bolt grommets

Tools/Materials Required
Tool Use
One two-foot breaker Hold crankshaft in place during cylinder pressurization (25”
bar for $13 @ Harbor Freight)
12” screwdriver Check for piston TDC - a similar probing tool can be used if
a screwdriver isn’t available
Ratchet + 10mm and Remove bolts. 10mm can also be used to seat seals on the
12mm sockets valve guide.
ValveMaster tool Remove and install keepers on the valve spring. Lisle
(toyotool.com) makes a tool that’s similar (36200) and ½ the price of the
ValveMaster, but you’ll need to use a 10mm socket to seat
the seals on the valve guide, instead. You will need one of
these valve retainer/keeper tools to make this installation
easier – don’t be cheap! You’ll be saving close to $2K by
doing this procedure yourself, anyway.
Needle nose vise grips Remove hard-to-reach exhaust valve seals
Valve seal pliers Shorter pliers work best
Air compressor Pressurize cylinders - larger capacity compressors work
best.
Valve holder air hose Pressurize cylinders (PowerBuilt @ O’Reilly’s or Carquest
brand for around $15)
Clothes pin Catch and hold falling valves if air pressure is lost. This is
 very unlikely to happen, but it’s best to be prepared.
PVC Pipe Tool Remove retainers and keepers on hard-to-reach exhaust
valves. Note: The design of this tool was borrowed
from a .COM forum member. See the Appendix for
tool construction details.
Blue disposable shop Plug oil galleries and spark plug holes. These have less
towels fibrous material than paper towels, so they won’t leave a
lot of debris in the head.
Telescoping magnet Grab keepers when PVC tool is used to remove retainers
and keepers
Air impact wrench Remove camshaft sprocket bolts
10mm ratchet wrench Remove bolts in tight spaces. Autozone sells a set of two
Duralast ratchet wrenches that have four sizes each for
around $20.
Magnetic tray Hold metal parts (optional, but recommended)
Mask Gaseous air will blow in your face while you’re changing
the seals; you don’t want to breathe that for a prolonged
period of time.
Workbench or shelf Store removed valve covers, rocker arms, and camshafts.
Plastic garbage bags Store and protect removed valve covers, rocker arms, and
camshafts from spills and debris.
1.25”-wide flexible Scrape gasket material from the cylinder head
metal putty knife
RTV sealant Seal cover gaskets to valve covers at various spots
Small pry bar Assist with removing valve covers
Work gloves (Gloves Grasp and push on ValveMaster
with a good amount of
grip) Caution: Don’t use gloves when you’re loading the
keepers in the spring retainers during the
procedures, or you’ll drop the keepers.
Lots of strength The exhaust valve springs are hard to access, so strength
is a must with the limited amount of space and leverage.
Small step stool Added height if you’re not tall
Ink correction fluid Make marks on the timing belt
Small binder clips (2) Hold timing belt on sprockets when reinstalling it
Wonder Bar Added leverage for installing valve spring components
Hacksaw or similar saw Cut PVC

Caution: Work in a well-ventilated area.

Procedures
**Suggestion 1: Use plastic Ziploc sandwich bags, blue masking tape, and a
sharpie to label everything you remove from the engine compartment**

**Suggestion 2: Read over this procedure several times before putting it to use**
1. Follow LegendLand’s DIY for Timing Belt/Water Pump replacement until you get to the
point where the timing belt is to be removed:
a. Skip removing the water pump if you will not be replacing the water pump.
b. If you’re not replacing the timing belt, mark an arrow on it to denote the direction of
rotation before removing it; you’ll want to reinstall the timing belt with the arrow
pointing in the same direction when you’re finished with this DIY.
c. Use the correction fluid to paint marks on the timing belt at the timing marks on the
camshaft sprocket. Also, paint a mark on the oil pump sprocket and on the belt at
the newly made mark on the oil pump sprocket. Painting these marks will make
installing the timing belt later much easier and more accurate.

VERY IMPORTANT: Before you remove the timing belt, use an air impact wrench or
ratchet with a 12mm socket to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts then hand
tighten them, but not too tight; an air impact wrench works best for camshaft
sprocket bolt removal, because it won’t cause the camshafts to spin and throw off
the timing marks. Once the bolts have been hand tightened, recheck your timing
marks, resetting it as needed, then remove the timing belt. Do not attempt to turn
the camshafts or crankshaft once the timing belt has been removed.

2. Move the fuse panel (driver’s side): Open the fuse box and unbolt the 2 power lines that
connect with 10mm Philips head screws. Unbolt the fuse box from the car frame. Push it
towards where the battery was located. It still has the wiring harness connected to it, so
leave it be. You just need to move it in order to remove the driver’s side valve cover.
Note: This step was borrowed from the Head Gasket DIY.
3. Remove the stabilizer bar, ignition coils (label them per cylinder), and other cylinder
head obstructions from the top of the engine. There aren’t a ton of obstructions on the
passenger side, but the driver’s side is full of things that need to be removed or pushed
out of the way. Some bolts are in very tight spaces, so the ratchet wrench will come in
handy. You need to make lots of space so that you can remove AND reinstall the valve
covers. Lastly, remove the valve covers.

Caution: A small pry bar may be needed in order to remove the valve covers. Brace
the handle end of the pry bar against the intake manifold to avoid damaging the
cylinder head. Pry gently and cautiously in several spots along the cylinder head
until it pops loose. More than likely, cover gasket pieces will remain stuck to the
cylinder head on the exhaust side.

4. Unbolt and remove the camshaft sprockets.

5. Remove the rear timing covers.
6. Passenger side and driver side rocker assembly removal – do one side at a time: Loosen
each rocker arm bolt one turn at a time in the sequence mentioned below until the bolts
are out of the their cylinder head holes. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLTS FROM THE
ROCKER ARM OR THE ASSEMBLY WILL COME APART!
7. After the bolts are out of the cylinder head holes, carefully lift the rocker assembly
from the cylinder head by grasping it firmly at each end. If old sealant is holding the
rocker assembly onto the cylinder head, get assistance to gently pry it loose while the
other person holds it in place so that parts don’t go flying. Once the rocker arm is free of
the cylinder head, set it on the shelf or workbench.

8. Remove the camshaft and set it on the shelf or workbench. Remove the camshaft seal
from the end of the camshaft – observe how it’s installed for the purpose of installing
new seals later.
 Note: Store the camshafts and rocker arms in plastic bags on the shelf or
workbench. Be sure to label which components go with each cylinder head
(i.e passenger’s side or driver’s side). Now that the rocker arms and
camshafts have been removed, the valves are in the closed position; this
means that the crankshaft may be turned freely without the risk of bending
valves.

9. Stuff pieces of blue shop towel in the oil galleries and spark plug holes (not so deep so
that you can’t remove them) to prevent parts from falling into the cylinder heads.
10. If the air compressor is turned off, turn it on and wait for it to pressurize. Set the air line
pressure to 80 PSI. Note: Be sure the air compressor is plugged in firmly and that
it cannot be easily unplugged. For an overhead outlet, if you have exposed
rafters, tie the extension cord around the rafters then plug it in so that the
weight of the cord doesn’t cause it to unplug itself.

11. Reinstall the crankshaft bolt - tighten it with a ratchet and 19mm socket. The crankshaft
may turn while you’re tightening the bolt, but this is fine.

12. Remove the spark plug for cylinder #1, then use the ratchet to turn the crankshaft
clockwise so that piston #1 is slightly past top dead center (TDC) on its downward
stroke. This will prevent the crankshaft from spinning unpredictably, since it will only
spin in one direction when the cylinder is pressurized. To find slightly past TDC, use a
long screwdriver, holding it LIGHTLY on top of the piston so it doesn’t catch on the side
of the piston while turning the crankshaft clockwise. As the screwdriver and piston rise,
peak, then start to go down, stop turning the crankshaft.

13. Remove the ratchet from the 19mm socket on the pulley bolt (in other words, leave the
socket in place on the bolt) and install the two-foot breaker bar in place of the ratchet,
resting the bar firmly against the floor on the driver’s side of the engine. Note: The
crankshaft will attempt to turn when the cylinder is pressurized in the next
step, so don’t be alarmed.
14. Carefully screw the valve holder air hose into cylinder #1’s spark plug hole; don’t screw
the hose in too tight or it will be difficult to remove. Connect the valve holder air hose to
the quick connect coupling on the air compressor. The cylinder should now be
pressurized. Check the air compressor to verify that the line pressure is at 80 PSI. Also,
some air may be heard/felt escaping from the spark plug hole of cylinder #1 – this is
normal. The following picture shows the valve holder air hose in cylinder #2 as
an example:
15. With the body of the ValveMaster installed in the handle so that the removal end is
showing, place the ValveMaster squarely over the first intake valve retainer and keepers.
Give a quick, firm push to remove the retainer and keepers; they should stick to the
ValveMaster’s magnet. Then remove the spring. Use the valve seal pliers to remove the
valve seal from the valve stem; this may take a bit of twisting and pulling, but it should
gradually work free. Remove any valve seal residue from the valve stem. Go to
toyotool.com if you want to see a demo of the ValveMaster. The Lisle tool
works similarly.
16. Coat the new intake valve seal with clean engine oil and place it in the body of the
ValveMaster (***Very Important*** - Again, seals with silver springs are for
intake, and the seals with black springs are for exhaust). Use the ValveMaster to
seat the new seal over the valve stem and firmly on the valve guide. In absence of the
ValveMaster, a 10mm deep socket can be used to seat the seal on the valve guide.

17. Install the spring with the most coiled end seated on the valve guide (red marks on the
spring denote the top end), then place the retainer and keepers (narrowest ends of the
keepers down) on the spring. Pull the body from the handle of the ValveMaster and
reinstall it in the handle so that the installation side is showing. Place the ValveMaster
squarely over the keepers and give it a quick, firm push to install the retainer and
keepers.

Pic of installation side of the ValveMaster:

***Very Important*** - Verify that the valve keepers are installed correctly (not
crooked or loose) before continuing. If they are not installed correctly, carefully
remove them with the removal end of the ValveMaster and repeat the installation
process.

18. Repeat the spring, retainer, keeper, and valve seal removal and installation procedures
for the other valves in cylinder #1 (steps 15-17).
Notes on Exhaust valves:
i. It takes a bit of strength to remove and install exhaust valve components,
and a variety of tools and methods may need to be employed in order to
remove and install valve components.
ii. Exhaust valves on cylinders 2, 3, 5, and 6 are the most difficult to do – Get a
second pair of hands to assist you!
iii. Exhaust valves will require using the vise grips pliers to remove the seals
because of limited space. Also, exhaust valve stems have ridges near the
valve seat, and some exhaust valves may have melted on the valve stem, so
they could take some time to remove. A twisting and pulling motion is
necessary to gradually work the seal free of the ridges. BE PATIENT.
iv. The body of the ValveMaster may have to be removed from the handle in
order to remove and install exhaust valve components on cylinders 1, 4, and
6.
v. A pry bar against the ValveMaster body was effective for installing the
retainers and keepers on cylinders 2, 3, and 5. Get a second person to lever
 the pry bar while you hold the ValveMaster correctly aligned against the
spring assembly.
vi. The PVC tool is very useful for removing exhaust valve components. A
second person will be required to use the telescoping magnet to grab the
keepers while you press on the valve spring assembly with the PVC tool.
Again, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE PVC TOOL TO INSTALL THE
VALVE COMPONENTS! IT WILL NOT WORK, AND YOU RISK LOSING
KEEPERS BY DOING SO.
vii. You may want to try slipping a ¾” PVC “T” over the ValveMaster body to
remove and install components on exhaust valves. When you slip the PVC “T”
over the ValveMaster, you’ll hit the pipe stop ridge, but you can shove it on
further past the ridge for a tighter fit and easier fit into tight spaces. Add a
couple inches of pipe to either end of the “T” to make a handle so that you
have something to grip. Pic below:

19. Once all four valve seals have been changed in cylinder #1, depressurize the cylinder by
disconnecting the valve holder air hose from the air compressor line. Then carefully
unscrew the hose from cylinder #1’s spark plug hole.

20. Repeat steps 12-19 for the remaining cylinders, substituting “cylinder #1” or “piston #1”
with the particular cylinder being worked. Remember to plug up the spark plug holes of
cylinders not currently being worked.

21. Once all valve seals have been changed, turn the crankshaft so that cylinder #1 is at
TDC. Verify TDC on piston #1 with a screwdriver and make sure the metal key on the
crankshaft is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing.

22. Use the flexible putty knife to carefully scrape gasket residue from the cylinder heads
without scoring the head surface. You may want to cover the cylinder head with shop
towels to prevent the gasket residue from falling into the cylinder head.
23. Use the telescoping magnet to check the cylinder head for any metal objects that may
have dropped in the head (e.g. lost keepers) then remove the shop towel pieces from
the oil galleries and spark plug holes.

24. Install the camshaft in the passenger’s side cylinder head:

a. Install a new camshaft seal on the camshaft, lubricating the inner part of the seal
that contacts the camshaft with engine oil so that it slides on easily. Be sure that
the seal is correctly installed with the flat side facing out of the cylinder head when
the camshaft is finally installed in the cylinder head.
b. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil: Dip your fingers (preferably gloved fingers)
in engine oil then run them along the camshaft.
c. Position the camshaft in the cylinder head so that the pin hole on the front of the
camshaft is in the top position of the cylinder head (imagine the cylinder head
sitting on a bench as opposed to sitting on the engine block).
25. Install the passenger’s side rocker arm:
a. Apply RTV to the surface at each end of the rocker arm where rockers #1 and #7
mate with the cylinder head. It may be best to apply the RTV to the cylinder head
vs. the rocker arm, but you need to make sure the RTV application matches up
with rockers #1 and #7.
b. Gently set the rocker arm in the cylinder head, matching up all 22 bolt holes.
Tighten each bolt by hand in the sequence mentioned below until a fair amount of
resistance is felt.
c. Very important: Use the torque wrench to further tighten each rocker arm bolt
one turn at a time in the sequence mentioned below until the bolts are tightened
to the proper torque spec: Torque spec for 6mm bolts with 10mm heads is 9 ft/lbs,
and the torque spec for 8mm bolts with 12mm heads is 16 ft/lbs.
26. Install a new head cover gasket kit on the passenger’s side valve cover, including RTV
gasket sealant for the valve cover gasket; the RTV should be applied to corners and
curves between the cover and the gasket and at a couple different spots along the
straight edge. Don’t apply RTV between the cylinder heads and the valve cover
gaskets, and don’t get carried away with applying too much RTV. Carefully
reinstall the valve cover on the cylinder head so that the gasket is still intact then
tighten the valve cover bolts, but NOT TOO TIGHT! – a little past hand tight will do.

27. Install the camshaft in the driver’s side cylinder head:

a. Install a new camshaft seal on the camshaft, lubricating the inner part of the seal
that contacts the camshaft with engine oil so that it slides on easily. Be sure that
the seal is correctly installed with the flat side facing out of the cylinder head when
the camshaft is finally installed in the cylinder head.
b. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil: Dip your fingers (preferably gloved fingers)
in engine oil then run them along the camshaft.
c. Position the camshaft in the cylinder head so that the pin hole on the front of the
camshaft is in the top position of the cylinder head (imagine the cylinder head
sitting on a bench as opposed to sitting on the engine block).
28. Install the driver’s side rocker arm:
a. Apply RTV to the surface at each end of the rocker arm where rockers #1 and #7
mate with the cylinder head. It may be best to apply the RTV to the cylinder head
vs. the rocker arm, but you need to make sure the RTV application matches up
with rockers #1 and #7.
Note: The rocker arm is installed in reverse of the pic above on the driver’s
side.

b. Gently set the rocker in the cylinder head, matching up all 22 bolt holes. Tighten
each bolt by hand until a fair amount of resistance is felt.
c. Very important: Use the torque wrench to further tighten each rocker arm bolt
one turn at a time in the sequence mentioned below until the bolts are tightened
to the proper torque spec: Torque spec for 6mm bolts with 10mm heads is 9 ft/lbs,
and the torque spec for 8mm bolts with 12mm heads is 16 ft/lbs.
29. Install a new head cover gasket kit on the driver’s side valve cover, including RTV gasket
sealant for the valve cover gasket; the RTV should be applied to corners and curves
between the cover and the gasket and at a couple different spots along the straight edge.
Don’t apply RTV between the cylinder heads and the valve cover gaskets, and
don’t get carried away with applying too much RTV. Carefully reinstall the valve
cover on the cylinder head so that the gasket is still intact then tighten the valve cover
bolts, but NOT TOO TIGHT! – a little past hand tight will do.

30. Reinstall the camshaft sprockets, hand tightening the bolts. The camshaft(s) will
move if you attempt to use a ratchet to tighten the bolts. Verify that the timing
marks on the camshaft sprockets line up with the rear timing cover.

31. Reinstall the timing belt, matching up the correction fluid marks on the belt with the
marks on the camshaft sprockets and oil pump sprocket to ensure a proper fit. Small
binder clips come in handy for holding the timing belt in place on the sprockets while
you’re routing it. See pic below for proper installation:
32. Now that the timing belt has been installed, use the torque wrench to tighten the
camshaft sprocket bolts to 23 ft/lbs. The belt may turn while you’re torquing the bolts,
but this is fine, since the timing belt is installed and will maintain the timing.

33. Reinstall the valve cover components on each cylinder head (e.g. brackets).

34. Reinstall the stabilizer bar.

35. Reinstall the fuse panel.

36. Continue with the LegendLand DIY for Timing Belt to put everything back together,
including setting the timing belt’s tension.

37. Once you’ve finished with the timing belt DIY, let the car warm up a bit then take it for a
test drive. If you have no blue smoke and the engine runs smoothly, you’re good to go.

Finished
 Appendix
PVC Tool
The PVC tool is used strictly for removing the retainers and keepers from exhaust
valves. Do not attempt to use it to install the retainers and keepers.

Materials
A. ¾” PVC “T”
B. ¾” PVC Pipe (One foot)
C. 1” PVC (One foot)

Steps:
Note: The cut measurements throughout this tool construction portion
may not be accurate, because I threw the tool away when I was finished
with it. Experiment with the measurements.

1. Use a hacksaw or similar saw to cut three pieces from the ¾” PVC pipe: 1.5”,
2”, and 2.5” pieces. The 1.5” and 2.5” pieces are for the tool handle

2. Cut a 1.5” piece from the 1” PVC pipe.

3. Cut a rectangular slit in the 2” pipe (3/4” round piece) that extends partway
into the PVC “T”. Cutting the slit up that far up allows the ¾” pipe to be
compressed so that the 1” pipe can slip over it. These cutters worked great
for cutting slits; this is my “go to” cutting tool ☺:
4. Cut a rectangular slit in the 1” PVC pipe that is slightly wider than the ¾”
pipe’s slit.

5. Put the pieces together. You’ll need to use a pair of pliers to compress the ¾”
pipe so that the 1” pipe can slide over it.

Here’s the finished product: