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IGORA Royal FAQs

Color fade
Color result is too dark
Color result is too light
Color result is too warm
Color result is dull and flat
Re-growth area is too vibrant after using a fashion shade
Unwanted tones after coloring

IGORA Colorist’s Know How


Highlifting: Hints & Tips
White Hair Coverage: Hints & Tips

Getting the best results from IGORA Royal Colorist’s Color


Coloring hair is a fine art that relies heavily on the colorist’s expertise. The potential for error
is large and this section identifies some of the problems colorist’s may experience if the
products are not used correctly but also provides recommendations to guarantee you get the
desired color result.

It is essential to follow the instructions for use carefully but also monitor the processing
stage. If in doubt, rinse a strand of hair to gauge the development progress and assess the
processing time accordingly.

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IGORA Royal FAQs

Color fade

Color can fade more quickly if the hair structure is poor or if insufficient pigment is deposited
in the hair. The list below outlines the possible cause for premature color loss and details the
best solution to avoid this scenario:

 Color was applied too thinly or unevenly


More product should have been applied to the hair.

 Processing time was too short


Always refer to the instructions for use and rinse a strand of hair to check
development.

 Color was applied to the roots but combed into the lengths and ends too early
Only equalize after the indicated processing time. A dual application process is a
more effective technique to ensure perfect equalisation.

 Mixing ratio was incorrect


Either insufficient peroxide solution (IGORA Royal Colorist’s Color and Care
Developer) was present to react with the para-dyes or conversely not enough para-
dyes reacted with the peroxide solution. Use good-quality electronic scales and
always follow the guidelines for mixing ratios carefully.

 A tone designed for coverage on up to 50% white hair was used on 50%+ white
hair
Add one part of -0 or -4, mixing ratio 2+1 (e.g. 40g 6-65 + 20g 6-4 + 60g IGORA
Royal Colorist’s Color & Care Developer) to get 100% coverage. Only in exceptional
cases where the hair is very thick is a 1:1 mixing ratio necessary. Exception: fashion
ranges like Absolutes already contain the correct mix of covering pigments.

 Target shade is a level 10 or higher on white hair


Shades lighter than level 9 do not cover white hair. Advise the client to select a Color
Crème shade with a lower target level for superior coverage.

 Coarse or porous hair was not recognised


Always assess the hair, even if the client is returning for a repeat application, hair can
become porous and damaged in between color treatments. Extra tip: Porosity may
vary throughout the hair, so darker areas need to be lightened using a sponge and a
weaker bleaching formula. Perform a diameter test to get an accurate diagnosis.
Thick hair compared to normal hair requires more pigments to attain the desired color
depth. Use a coloring product 1 level darker than normal to achieve the target shade.

Color result is too dark


This can occur where:

 Overlapping color builds up during a multiple coloring technique or when


applying color to re-growth areas

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Use a bleach wash or similar technique to gradually remove pigments from the
affected area; further tonal correction may be necessary.

 Fine hair was not recognised


To get an accurate diagnosis, perform a diameter test. Fine hair compared to normal
hair requires fewer pigments to attain the desired color depth. Use a coloring product
1 level lighter than normal to achieve the target shade.

Color result is too light


This can occur where:

• A shade with only 50% coverage was chosen as the target shade for hair that is
2 or more color depths lighter
To achieve a darker result a corresponding base tone (-0, -4) needs to be added,
using a 2:1 mixing ratio (e.g. 40g 4-99 + 20g 4-0).

Color result is too warm


This can occur where:

 The strength of the IGORA Royal Colorist’s Color & Care Developer is too high
The color lift provided will dissolve many of the grey/brown pigments (eumelanin)
leaving behind the warmer red/yellow pigments (pheomelanin). Use a lower
concentrate of IGORA Royal Colorist’s Color and Care Developer, for example 3%, in
order to deposit pigment only.

OR:

Cover up any unwanted red/yellow, apply 1 part natural shade to 1 part IGORA Royal
Colorist’s Color and Care Developer 3% to 1 part water (1:1:1 ratio); check regularly
until the desired shade is achieved.

 An unsuitable shade has been applied


It is essential to ascertain whether a client is more suited to a warm or cool color.
Refer to the Client Analysis section for more detail.

Color result is dull and flat


This can occur where:

 A natural extra shade is used on porous hair


To achieve a glossy, vibrant color result, mix the natural shade with either a Beige (-
4), Gold (-5), Auburn Gold (-65) or Auburn Red (-68) in order to replace these
pigment types. Vary the shade depending on natural base color and hair type.

 The hair is damaged or stressed


If the hair is badly damaged then the cuticle layer will be open, exposing the inner
cortex. When light shines on the hair shaft, it is dispersed and the hair therefore looks
dull. We recommend using deep conditioning repair treatments. A porosity test will
also help diagnose this hair type.

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 A pre-pigmentation treatment has not been given prior to coloring the hair back
2 levels or more
Choose a suitable product.

 Color has been overdeveloped or the applied color is too dark


Pigments need to be removed to lighten the hair before any corrective color can be
applied.

Re-growth area is too vibrant after using a fashion shade


This can occur where:

 The IGORA Royal Colorist’s Color and Care Developer strength is too high
Remember the root area will process faster due to natural heat from the scalp, in this
case use a lower Igora Royal Colorist’s Color and Care Developer strength. Apply
color first to the ends, then mid-lengths and finally the root area.

 No natural pigment in white hair


Vibrant coloring shades depend on natural pigments present within the hair to tone
down the color treatment. Exception: special coverage available in the Absolutes
range. Mix a natural (-0) or beige shade (-4) in with the fashion shade to ensure the
correct tone and depth.

 An unsuitable shade has been applied


It is essential to analyse the hair type correctly prior to a color treatment. Hair
condition must be suitable for the chosen product and product shade.

Unwanted tones after coloring


This may be due to a poor client consultation:

 If the client’s natural hair depth was diagnosed incorrectly, the end result will not be
accurate.

 If the chosen color is not the client’s color type the results may be disappointing, as
the color will not suit his/her skin tones.

 Where a lift of 3 levels or more is required, use the following guidelines:

1. If the natural depth is level 5 or darker use powder bleach

2. If the natural depth is level 5 or 6 and the hair is fine to medium in texture, use the Special
Lightening series.

3. If the hair is too golden after a lightening procedure, apply a second application of bleach
powder with 3% Igora Royal Colorist’s Color and Care Developer.

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IGORA Colorist’s Know How

Highlifting: Hints & Tips

Introduction

Blonde hair is very popular for both men and women, however it can be difficult to achieve
the desired tone and effect. Lifting dark hair to a light blonde with just a bleaching process
may result in unwanted red, copper or gold undertones. In addition, attaining a popular sun-
bleached, highlighted effect can involve 2 or 3 different colouring procedures. Highlighting
and bleaching can damage the hair, as the process involves powerful chemicals designed to
reduce and dissolve the pigments. For all these reasons a client should visit their local salon
to ensure a good result rather than attempting to use a home-based product.

Schwarzkopf Professional provides a wide range of lightening products to meet every blonde
hair request. Refer to ASK Products for a full description of these, including preparation and
application guidelines. The following hints and tips will help to achieve a good, consistent
blonde colour result

General hints and tips

Always accurately identify the natural hair tone, this will influence the colour recipe and
ultimately the final shade on your client’s hair. Once the natural shade has been assessed,
the correct strength of Colour and Care Developer and mixing ratio can be calculated to
achieve the desired lift. Remember to use the Special Blondes range in order to achieve
maximum lift.

Use a bleach product if the natural base is brown (darker than a 6-0) and a blonde hair result
is required. Remember, bleaches reduce and dissolve hair pigments, thus lightening the hair;
they do not add pigment.

Special Lightening shades are formulated to provide maximum lightening action without
bleaching the hair. These shades have the ability to lighten and tone the hair simultaneously.

• Mix 1 part Special Lightening cream to 2 parts Colour and Care Developer (1:2).
• Use 12% Colour and Care Developer for a lift of 4-5 levels or 9% Colour and Care
Developer for a lift of 3-4 levels.

10-3 has a matt (green) tone, which neutralises unwanted red tones.

Add Special Lightening shade 12-4 to any other 12 series shade in order to reduce a matt
effect on porous hair. 12-4 gives a tonal deposit on white hair.

To lift and neutralise unwanted tones use appropriate shades, for example 12-1 for gold, 12-
2 for orange.

Use IGORA Royal Lightening Cream (e-00) with blonde shades to achieve an extra level of
lift. Do not use with Ultra Blondes (10) or Special Blondes (12) ranges.

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Use IGORA Royal Lightening Cream or a weak bleach solution to remove patchy bands
caused by uneven application.

Unwanted tone

This can occur where:

• Not enough product was applied - With lightening products it is particularly important
to apply a generous amount to the hair in order to achieve the correct lift and tone.
Unwanted tones may become evident where the target lift has not been achieved and
yellow/orange pigments (pheomelanin) have not properly reduced or dissolved.

• Processing time was too short - For the same reason as above, a short processing
time can lead to unwanted tones. As a general guideline, process for 30-60 minutes,
extra if required.

• Hair analysis was incorrect (for example the natural hair was too dark for the shade
used) - In this instance the colour recipe would not achieve the desired lift, hence
unwanted pigments will remain. Reassess the target level and apply a bleach or
toning product to achieve the desired target shade.

• Re-growth application has been completed correctly but equalised too quickly -
Equalisation is an important process in order to blend in the existing shade with the
roots. Remember that developing time on the roots will normally be less than on the
lengths and ends (unless the hair is resistive) due to natural heat in this area, in this
instance go for a dual application.

• The mixing ratio was incorrect - Too little hydrogen peroxide will reduce the lifting
effect of the bleach or colouring cream. Re-calculate and re-apply as necessary.

After lightening the colour is too matt

This can occur where:

• Light, fine hair at the ends has absorbed too much colour - Hair is often finer and also
more porous toward the ends. If this is the case more colour may be absorbed,
creating a darker, matt effect. In this situation, apply colour to the ends last, and apply
the mix more thinly.

• Where the ends of the hair are very light, or there are large areas of white hair,
Special Lightening shades should not be used as they will not cover the hair type.

• Colour was over processed; hence too many pigments were deposited - Use a
lightening product to remove unwanted pigments.

• A matt shade was used, for example 12-2 or 12-1 - Some shades are deliberately
matt to counteract a strong pigment base. Select the correct shade for your client
type, for example 12-0.

Hair is starting to go green after swimming

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The water in public swimming pools contains chlorine, which can react with chemicals
deposited in the hair to form copper sulphate; this is green in colour. It is rare for this process
to occur, however follow the guidelines below to reverse the process:

• Wash the hair as soon as possible with acetylsalicylacid dissolved in distilled


water, which dissolves the copper sulphate ions.

• In order to wash other water-borne impurities from the hair, use a deep cleaning
shampoo. Apply to dry hair and lather, then leave to dry for 20 minutes, preferably
under heat. Rinse thoroughly from the hair and repeat. This process effectively
removes chlorine, salt and copper sulphate. Remember to apply a suitable
conditioner after the final rinse

White Hair Coverage: Hints & Tips

Introduction

Blending in white hair can be as straightforward as applying a one-step colouring cream and
waiting for it to process. However this is not always the case! The distribution of white hair
varies considerably from person to person; for example white hair can be spread evenly
across the hair or concentrated in specific areas.

Because white hair is caused by the absence of colour pigments, it is important to put depth
back into the hair as well as the chosen tone. This is particularly important where white hair
is to be blended with the existing natural hair colour. The darker the natural hair shade, the
more difficult this procedure becomes, as more pigment needs to be deposited in the white
hair in order to blend the two hair types.

In general, white hair is often coarse and resistive. This is independent of natural hair type,
and therefore special conditions usually exist where a significant amount of white hair is
present. When the hair type has been fully assessed use the guidelines given below to
ensure a good result. The majority of hints and tips provided concern IGORA Royal, though
much of the theory and principles apply to covering shades from other IGORA ranges, only
IGORA Royal is capable of covering 100% white hair.

Colour adjustment for white hair

Unpigmented hair looks white because it reflects more of the light spectrum. Pigmented hair
(coloured hair) absorbs some of the light spectrum, this results in hair appearing darker. The
higher the percentage of white hair, the lighter the overall colour depth will appear. For
example, hair with 25% white hair will appear 25% lighter than the actual colour depth of the
natural hair.

Remember that the colour depth of natural hair will need to be lifted initially before pigments
are deposited and developed. This is called colour compensation.

In most cases, when a client wishes to colour their hair back to their natural shade, they have
become used to a lighter colour depth due to the presence of white hair. If the hairdresser
were to colour a client’s hair back to their actual natural shade, most customers would
consider this too dark!

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Perfect coverage

For perfect white hair coverage using IGORA Royal:

• Select 100% covering shades (IGORA Royal -0, -00, -1, -2, -3, -4), levels 1 to 9.
• Use a special fashion tone such as IGORA Royal Absolutes to ensure 100%
coverage. These do not need to be mixed with covering shades. Only use on 50%
white hair or above and with 9% Color and Care Developer
• If the target is a fashion shade and the white hair percentage is 50% or more use 2
parts fashion shade to 1 part natural/beige (–0/-4) shade (2:1 mixing ratio), for
example 40g of 6-7 IGORA Royal + 20g of 6-4 IGORA Royal. In special cases, for
example where the hair is very thick, use a 1:1 mixing ratio.
• If cool shades (IGORA Royal -1/-2/-3/-36 series ) are applied on white hair, mix with a
warm base, for example IGORA Royal -4 using the same depth with a mixing ratio of
2:1 (40g 7-1 + 20g 7-4 + 60g Igora Royal Colorist’s Color & Care Developer), to
achieve a natural colour result.
• Begin applying first on hair that is predominantly white.

Fine white hair

All fine hair, whether it is white or naturally coloured, has the ability to absorb pigment more
readily than normal hair, therefore the colour result will appear darker. Avoid this by choosing
a lighter shade than the target.

• If 50% white hair or more and the target shade is a fashion shade (4-99) use 2
parts target shade to 1 part, 1 tone lighter (natural/beige) shade (2:1 mixing ratio),
for example 40g of 4-99 + 20g of 5-0.

Coarse white hair

Where the hair type is coarse, more pigment needs to be deposited in order to achieve the
same colour depth as normal hair. If the hair is also resistive, achieving the target shade can
be difficult.

If a natural hair shade is required, use the Natural Extra range (-00). These contain double
the amount of pigment, creating a deeper, more intense result. Only use on 50% white hair
or above with 9% Color and Care Developer, otherwise the remaining natural colour will lift. If
the hair is 100% white, mix with a -4 series in order to replace natural pigment, for example
mix 2 parts 8-00 with 1 part 8-4 (2:1).

• Use an IGORA colouring cream one depth darker than the desired shade, for
example if the target shade is 9-4, then use 8-4 with 6% Color and Care Developer.
• Ensure all the colouring mixture is used and evenly distributed across the hair.
• Use 9% Color and Care Developer with Absolutes or Natural Extra shades (-00).
• Extend processing time.

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