Overview of the energy code requirements for homes:

A checklist for Professional Home Inspectors

This checklist can be used to assess new or existing homes for sale for clients
interested in buying a high quality home. New homes are more likely than older
homes to meet at least some requirements of the energy code. For existing
homes, this checklist provides criteria for assessing energy performance in lieu of
utility data. Home inspectors can use this information in combination with their
professional judgment and familiarity with local homes to offer advice regarding
expected energy use.

The list below includes information on the current energy code. When builders
meet or exceed code requirements and pay attention to these important details,
it’s a good indication of the quality of construction and an indicator of whether
the home will be an energy hog.

This checklist doesn’t cover every aspect of the code, but it addresses the
requirements that are easiest to understand and see in a home after construction
is complete. With the info below, you can help determine whether a home likely
meets the energy conservation code.

Energy Efficient Lighting. Lighting has an enormous impact (approximately 12%) on the
energy use in homes. The current energy conservation code requires that builders put high
efficiency light bulbs in at least 50 percent of the permanent lighting fixtures. High efficiency bulbs
can include compact fluorescents, high-efficiency halogens, LEDs, etc. If the bulbs are standard
incandescent bulbs, installing energy efficient bulbs will yield savings for the home buyer.

Programmable Thermostat. Programmable thermostats can generate annual energy savings

of 10%. According to the current code, homes with forced-air furnaces must have programmable
thermostats installed. Regardless of the heating and cooling system in a home, programmable
thermostats can save money. The average cost of a programmable thermostat ranges from $30 to
$50. Does the home have a programmable thermostat?

Windows – New or Remodeled Homes.

Energy code requirements for windows, like many other parts of a house, vary from one region of
the country to another. Requirements for windows include a U-factor and (sometimes) a solar heat
gain coefficient. A U-factor is a rating given to a window based on how much heat loss it allows. U-

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 factors generally range from 0.2 (very little heat loss) to 1.2 (high heat loss). Single-pane windows
are about 1.0, double-paned windows about 0.5 and high-performance double-paned windows are
about 0.3. Skylights and windows must meet separate U-factors. The solar heat gain coefficient
measures how well a window blocks heat from the sun. This is especially important in warm regions.
Visit http://www.efficientwindows.org/code_overview.cfm to determine the U-factor and solar heat
gain coefficient for your area.

o Ask for documentation on the U-factor and solar heat gain coefficient for windows and
skylights. If the home is newly built, ask the builder for copies of window labels to
confirm requirements are met.
o Some manufacturers label their windows with serial numbers or other data that can be
used to track down information on the efficiency rating. Look for trademarks and codes
etched into the corner of the window glass and/or paper or metal labels that may be
attached to the window sill, header, or tracks on the sides. Contact the customer service
department of the window manufacturer to confirm the efficiency of the product
installed.

Windows – Existing Homes, not Remodeled.

There are a number of factors that should be considered in evaluating older windows. Energy
performance varies significantly based on the material that windows are made from and the
condition they are in.

- Can you see daylight around the sides of the window frame or sash?
- Are windows loose in their tracks; can you slip a piece of paper between the sash and frame
when they are closed and locked?
- What are the windows made of? Aluminum is typically known as a poor insulator. Fiberglass,
wood, and vinyl do a better job, but much depends on the construction of the windows.
- Are windows single, double, or triple-paned? Note: storm windows installed over single-paned
windows can perform about as well as conventional double-paned windows but do not match
the performance of high-performance windows with low-E glass and gas fills.
- The ability of double or triple panes to block heat transfer depends greatly on whether they are
“low-E coated” or not. Low-E coatings are invisible but can be detected by specialists.

Insulation:
Check the attic access hatch/door. These can be a major source of air leakage in
the home, creating high utility bills and uncomfortable drafts. The hatch or door to the attic
should be weather-stripped and insulated. They should be well-made so that they are
airtight when you close them (Test by closing door or hatch on a piece of paper. Can the
paper be pulled out when the hatch/door is closed?). The insulation should be attached so
that it isn’t damaged or become loose when the hatch or door is used.

Get under the house and look at the crawl space. Either the floor over a crawl
space should be insulated or the crawl space walls should be insulated. Insulation should be
attached securely without gaps. Likewise, it is also important that batt insulation not be

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 compressed. Compressing the batts reduces the insulation value significantly, almost
eliminating it.

Certificate requirement. Since 2006, in homes that comply with the model energy code,
builders have been required to attach a permanent certificate on or in the circuit breaker box or
electric panel box listing the materials, equipment values, and ratings to demonstrate that the home
meets energy conservation code requirements.

The certificate is an important means of verifying for the consumer that the home meets model
energy code requirements. The certificate should be installed so that it doesn’t obstruct visibility of
the circuit directory label, service disconnect label or other required labels.

Look for sources of air leakage into and out of the home. Air leakage is often
responsible for 30% or more of total energy loss. All joints, seams and penetrations between the
inside and outside of the home should be sealed. Typically, caulk, gaskets, spray foam or
weatherstripping is used to seal these air leaks.
Check to see whether leaks have been sealed where phone lines, electrical lines, plumbing
and other services enter the house.
Check penetrations in the attic floor where pipes and ducts lead to the rooms below to
determine whether they’ve been sealed with foam, caulk, or other materials.
Check cabinets beneath the kitchen sink, kitchen island, bathroom sinks, etc., and see where
pipes lead to the floor below or out through walls. Are the spaces around the pipes filled
with caulk, foam or other materials to prevent airflow?
In the basement, check exterior walls with penetrations for pipes and wires. Also check
where pipes and ducts penetrate the basement ceiling to the floor above. Are they sealed
tightly?
Check recessed lights – especially those located directly below an unfinished attic. Trim
should be sealed to the ceiling with caulk.

For more information on the stack effect (we will probably choose only one):
http://www.pacificnorthwestinspections.com/index.php/resource-library/online-resources/914-
hvac/275-stackeffect
http://triadhomes.news-
record.com/content/2009/09/04/article/improve_indoor_air_quality_by_reducing_stack_effect

Was a blower door test done? The most effective and objective way to evaluate air leakage
in a home is to have a “blower door” test done. The cost of a blower door test ranges from $250.00-
350.00. NOTE: The national model code requires new or substantially remodeled homes to be tested
with blower doors, unless the air sealing in the home was inspected by a qualified professional
(usually the local building inspector). Ask whether a blower door test was done and request a copy
of the test results. For homes that comply with code, tested air leakage must be less than “seven air
changes per hour (ACH) when measured with a blower door at a pressure of 33.5psf (50Pa)”. To
standardize the test for different homes and different parts of the country, the equipment used for

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 the test is set at a standardized pressure level (33.5psf or 50Pa). Very efficient homes may have
leakage rates of only .6-2.5 with a pressure of 50Pa. For more information on blower door testing
visit: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/blower-door-basics

Fireplaces: Generally speaking, fireplaces often reduce the energy efficiency of a home. The
national model code requires that the doors of wood-burning fireplaces have gaskets to help make
them airtight.

http://www.woodheat.org/maintenance/maintenance.htm

Ductwork should be insulated and sealed. Leaky ducts can be responsible for 10-30% of
energy loss in a home.
o Unless the underside of your roof and attic walls are insulated, when ducts run through attic
space, they must be insulated to a minimum of R-8. Is the attic fully insulated? Are the ducts
in the attic insulated to R-8?
o Is ductwork sealed properly? All ducts and air handlers should also be sealed with duct
mastic, standard duct tape isn’t sufficient.
o The energy code requires that the entire duct system be tested for air tightness if any part
of the ductwork is located in an un-insulated crawlspace, attic, or garage. Leaky ducts are
a major source of energy loss, so this requirement is extremely valuable to homeowners in
making homeownership affordable, month after month. If there is ductwork in an un-
insulated crawlspace, attic or garage and the home is newly constructed or has undergone a
major renovation with a new duct system, ask for a copy of the report documenting the air
tightness.

Note: need pix of insulated, sealed and uninsulated ductwork.

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