Pre Installation Information:

Parts Needed:
--> Turbocharger: Pick which size and trim turbo is gonna work best for your app
lication and goals
--> Exhaust Manifold: Either log/cast/equal length. Make sure it was made for yo
ur turbo (t3, 4bolt, 5bolt, dsm, etc.)
--> Downpipe: Again must be custom for your turbo/manifold choice. A flex pipe a
nd o2 bung are nice to have while creating a downpipe
--> Wastegate: Choose a wastegate size (also what psi spring you'd like to run)
according to application such as amount of air flow and psi from turbo
--> Intercooler: Choose either a FMIC (Front Mount InterCooler) or Side Mount In
tercooler. Fmic is more bling bling :D as well as better cooling
--> Blow off valve: This is acutally an opional (but very recommended part). Doe
snt really matter which one you choose. Pick a sound you like
-->Fuel Manegment: One of the most important parts on your turbocharged car. I w
ould highly suggest running a programable chiped ecu or standalone device, but r
unning a AFC hack controller can be used as well
--> Fuel Pump : You will probably need an upgraded fuel pump to support the adde
d fuel consumption. Can be either internal or external
--> Injectors : To support added air induction, more fuel is need... hence bigge
r injectors. Buy size according to application
--> Map Sensor: Stock maps can only read up to ~10.63 psi, if you plan to go hig
her upgrade to a 2bar or 3bar map sensor
--> Intercooler Piping: You can buy a ic piping kit, but usally will always take
some modification to fit your exact application
--> Couplers/t-bolts: You will need silicone couplers to bind the two ic pipes t
ogether as well as t-bolts (or screw clamps which i dont recommend) to tighten t
hose couplers down
--> Oil drain/feed lines: Every turbo needs oil, so you must buy an oil feed and
drain line kit. ss lines are recommend
--> Vacuum Manifold: Not required but recommened to help organize vacuum lines a
nd allow for good vacuum sources
--> Gauges: although not required, it's highly recommend so you can keep some st
atus of motor operation. boost/oil pressure highly recommened
--> Spark plugs: Although not required, turbo temps can get high, so i recommend
you step down two steps colder in your spark plugs. Also copper too
--> Reference picture:
0pic

Tools Needed:
--> Extensive Socket/Rachet Set: Metric sizes. the more variety, the less likely
you wont have the socekt you need for the job
--> Extensive wrech set: Metric sizes. Racheting wrenchs are gonna work great fo
r tight places
--> Floor jack w/ jack stands: you gotta get that car up for some things
--> Screw driver set: again, the more variety, the better
--> Dremel: You may need to cut or sand some things down, so a dremel will be pe
rfect for the job
--> Wire strippers: Your gonna do some spliceing and wire cutting somewhere
--> Multi-meter: Not required, but it's handy to have around to troubleshoot and
test wires
--> PbBlaster: This is a rust-breaking spray in a can, extremely useful for gett
ing old rusted bolts off

Estimated Time and Skill level:

--> I Would give your self a week or more to finsih this install properly depend
on how much free time you have. It will always be better to start early and hav
e more time for cushion if unplaned things come up then to have jsut enough time
planed and if something bad comes up your screwed (happened to me)
--> Skill level: I'd say a full turbo install would have to be from a 7-9 diffic
utly in the import world depending on your skill level. Building a motor being a
10.

Installation Proceduces:

Step 1: Remove all N/a parts from your motor

--> Take a look into your engine bay and find where your Intake and header ar
e. Since you will be replacing both with new parts, these are not needed anymore
.
1pic

--> Remove Intake by unscrewing two screw clamps holding silicone coupler at
the throttle body, and a bolt down near the air filter where intake is holding o
nto chassis.
2pic
--> Your gonna have to get under the car for the rest of this project, so it'
s a good idea to jack the car up and make sure to use two jack stands for safety
3pic
--> Remove 9 12mm nuts that hold header to engine head studs
4pic
--> Remove three bolts that hold cat and exhaust together. After you un bolts
these three bolts, there should be two bolts that are holding header in place b
y a bracket hanging from the back of the block. Remove those two bolts as well a
nd header should be free to drop out of place.
5pic
6pic 7pic
Step 2: Assemble and Install manifold/turbo/dp
--> Whether or not your bought your manifold and dp brand new or custom made
it, I suggest assembling just to test fit before you try installing into the car
. Check for turbo placement, and dp route.
8 pic
--> First, you want to apply some Pbblaster to the o2 sensor on your n/a head
er, this way removal is easy. Once you get it out, screw it onto the new Dp o2 b
ung.
9 pic 10 pivc
feel free to take a whif, get high lol
11 pic
--> Slid the manifold on to the engine block exhaust studs
12pic
--> Next, if needed, clock your turbo to fit your setup correctly. TO clock y
our turbo means to rotate the compressor/turbine houseings relative to the cente
r housing. It's easy to do, you just need to loosen the bolts that hold the hous
ings down tight, and rotate. Tighten back up when it's in the right spot.
pic 13
--> You now going to want to hand tight bolt the turbo to the manifold so you
 can test fit on the block. In this case our turbo was hitting some of the web c
asting on the engine block. this is actually quite common on turbo Honda's. Dont
worry, the web casting isnt too hard to remove and is not that important to the
structure of the block. To cut the casting, use a dremel with a cut-off wheel a
ttatchment.
14 pic
15 pic
After cutting the corner off with a dremel and a cut off wheel
16 pic
--> If manifold now sits flush with head of engine, and turbo is clocked to f
it your setup correctly.. It's time to tighten down the head studs to hold manif
old securely. Tighten turbo-->manifold bolts as well.
Step 3: Mark and Remove Oil Pan and install oil drain line
--> Get under the car and take a look at your oil pan while you have your man
ifold/turbo/dp on for fitment. Your gonna need to grab your oil drain line that
was supplied in your oil line kit that you purchased for this step.
17 pic
--> Take one end of the ss line and line it up with the oildrain hole on the
turbo.
18 pic
--> Take the other end, and find a way to make that line reach the designated
spot on the oil pan. The spot on the oil pan can most likely be anywhere in the
"deep" section of the oil pan, located at the highest point of the "deep" part.
Run the line the best you can without touhcing the dp or making any sharp turns
or positive slope. The oil line is important to have correct so your turbo gets
effective oil cooling and lubricant for the seals. Mark where oil drain hose li
nes up on the oil pan with a screwdriver or something sharp so it leaves a good
clear mark.
Imagine this pan still on the engine, that circle marked in yellow is the genera
l location to where you want the oil drain line to run.
19 pic
--> if there is no way to run the line without pitching, you can purchase str
aight/45 degree/90 degree fittings so that the line does not have a kink in it.
Also, if the oil is touhcing the dp, i highly suggest you look into purchaseing
some kind of heat wrap so that your oil line doesnt wear over time, as well as y
our "inner" rubber line doesnt melt.
--> It's got about 26 or so bolts/nuts that are holding it on.First things fi
rst, you must drain the oil from your engine so taking off the pan wont be the m
essiest thing you've ever done! 17mm socket to the drain plug will do the trick.
20 pic
--> Once you get all the oil out, your ready to start the removal process. Yo
u first need to take off the Flywheel cover plate which is located where your tr
ansmission meets your engine block next to the oil pan
21 pic
--> After you remove that plate, 4 more bolts/nuts holding on the oil pan wil
l be exposed. Now, you just need to remove all exsisting bolts/nuts and the oil
pan should drop off freely. Make sure to keep track of oil pan gasket cus you'll
need to make sure to put that on when you re-install.
22 & 23 pic
--> Now it's time to either weld the oil drain bung or drill a hole for the "
weld-less" oil drain that you have. Either way, it's the same concept, make a ho
le for oil!
--> After the hole is made, use your kit's instructions on how to install the
fittings you have. Make sure to use any given rubber washers or seals so that t
here are no leaks. Re-install oil pan in reverse of removal.
--> Find the Oil drain flange and oil drain gasket from your kit. Bolt the fl
ange with the gasket between the flange and the turbo securely.
24 pic
--> Connect the oil line from the turbo to the oil pan fitting. Make you tigh
ten everything down so there are no leaks! Should look something like this
25 pic
Step 4: Install Turbo oil Feed Line
--> Go underneath your car, as if you were going to remove the oil filter. Ju
st left of the oil filter, you will see a black rubber plug that is running into
the back of the block. This is your stock oil pressure sensor. Give it a little
tug and it should snap off with alittle force.
26 pic
--> once the plug is unconnected, you can take a socket and rachet to remove
the stock pressure sensor. It's going to be big, and a deep socket as well.. som
ething like 21mm i believe. This is your stock sensor removed and your new "oil-
T" you got in your kit.
27 pic
gt; With your oil T, you should have recieved a small black screw/plug to plug u
p a hole on the T if you do not have a need for the 2nd hole. You must plug this
whole if you dont have anything to go there such as a aftermarket oil pressure
sensor. In my case, i dont have one yet, so i pluged it up using a hex tool to s
crew it in.
--> Gently screw the Oil T into the stock oil pressure sensor hole on the blo
ck. Using a 17mm i believe it was socket, tight it down, but not extremely tight
because it could crack the block if it goes in too hard. be careful. Once it's
in firmly, screw the Stock sensor into the back hole of the oil T. tighten that
down firmly, but not TOO tight again.
28 pic
--> Now it's time to get out your oil feed line that was found in your oil ki
t. It should be the 3ft or so, skinny ss line. take one side and run it down to
the oil T you just installed, and thread it into the last hole that is open. Aga
in firmly but be careful.
29 pic
gt; It's your choice on how you run the line to get to your turbo's feed fitting
. I choose to run the line through my intake manifold runners and over my vavle
cover to my turbo. Thread it into the turbo and firmly tighten it down. Now your
feed line is complete!
30 & 31 pic
Step 4: Install Front Mount Intercooler
--> This step is really gonna vary depending on what intercooler you have cho
osen for your turbo kit. If you got the Johnny Racecar fmic, then all your gonna
have to do is two holes and mount it up.
In my case, i have a larger Spearco which involves some modification of the bump
er support. First thing your gonna have to do is take off the front bumper which
isnt hard at all. there are 5 bolts up on the top of the radiator support which
you need to remove. Their are two bolts(one on each side) within the fender whe
el that hold bumper to fenders. And lastly, their are about 8 screws that hold a
ll the splash gaurds to the bumper which you need to unscrew and pop out.
32 pioc
--> To do this modification, your gonna need some kind of metal cutting tool.
I choose a dremel with a cut-off wheel because that's all i had in my garage. I
f your gonna use a dremel expect this too take 2-3hrs... I've heard of ppl using
special metal recipricating saws and also hi-powered "cut-off wheels".
If you have one of those, it'd speed up the process probably, but surely aren't
required. You're gonna wanna ware eye protection for this, cus little metal bits
 go flying everywhere!
33 pic
--> I first did a test fit to see what i really needed to have cut off my bum
per support to allow fitment of the fmic. I held the fmic with a jack and kinda
"eye-d" what woudl be needed to cut off, marked it with a sharpie. The original
test fit with bumper and no cutting showed me that my fmic was about two inches
lower, so i went two inches up into the bumper support
34 pic
--> Now that you marked it, you just gotta start cutting away. I found it eas
iest to start real softly untill you got a complete hole through a small section
of the metal. Once you can fit the whole cut-off wheel through and start cuttin
g through the metal from the side, it starts to get alittle easier. I took these
pics by hitting the timer button, running over to dremel, and started cutting l
ol. And yes, i am taking a pic with one hands and using a dremel cut-off wheel t
o cut my front bumper support at the same time
35 36 pic
Alittle fun with the dremel lol
37 pic
gt; once you get all the way through all the metal, it should look something lik
e this....
38 39 pic
gt; You now can mark where the holes on the ic mounts are in relation to the bum
per support, then drill those marks out. Go buy some bolts/nuts/washers from hom
edepot to put in those newly drilled holes. sry no pics of it offically mounted.
Step 5: Modify Bumper to fit FMIC
--> Now that you have your fmic you can test fit your bumper again. It's not
gonna fit without alittle cutting of the black grill. In my situation, it was ea
sier to just cut the whole front grill out instead of trying to just cut some an
d save it. I aslo had to cut some of the side grill things out to fit my piping.
Here's what it looks like when you begin....
40 pic
Again you can use a dremel with a cut-off wheel adaptor to cut this off which wo
rks pretty good but you have to go slow cus it tends to melt from heat. You can
also use a hack saw but dremel is more accurate. Once you got it all cut out, it
should look like this.
41 pic
here is the one-half of the side grill i had to cut out.
42pic
--> once you got it cut out, try it out and see how it looks! teh win!
43 pic
gt; With some of the piping on it had to cut some of the splash gaurd. this was
not hard at all, just line it up, eye it where you need to cut, and use the drem
el again to cut what is needed to be removed. should look something like this...
44 pic
after:
45 pic
gt; If it fits without hitting the fmic and all holes line up, then bolt it back
up. 5 botls up top, both fender screws, and ~6 splash gaurd bolts on the bottom
.
Step 6: Walbro Internal Fuel Pump Installation
--> First things first, you need to un-hook both negative/positive cables fro
m the battery to be safe, cus life is better then death
46 pic
gt; Next, fold down your back seat using the key lock located on your rear speak
er pannel above rear seats. There is one bolt that is holding your backseats ont
o the chassis which is accessible through the trunk of your car. Feel free to ge
t all the way in your trunk to ge this bolt with a wrench in hand.
47 pic
 Once that bolt is removed, go back to the inside of the car. Push the top part
of the back seat back into it's locked position so you dont have it all in the w
ay. Pull up toward you on the back seat farthest from you, you will see two meta
l clip that hold the front of the seat in position. Simply mouever the clips of
out their holes and the back seat should come free to take out of the car.
48 pic
Seat removed. Look at all that lost change! You'll find some wierd shit under yo
ur seat lol.
49 pic
gt; Now that you have the fuel tank access cover exposed, it's time to release f
uel tank pressure. to do this, you should open up your gas cap, as well as relie
ve pressure from your fuel filter. Make sure you have good ventalation so you do
nt start tripping off gas fumes.
--> Releaseing pressure from the fuel filter is pretty easy. There is one "se
rvice" bolt that is threaded into the Banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter. Use
a wrench to hold banjo bolt in place, while using a rachet to loosen the service
bolt. Prepare for some fuel to leak out, so put a rag around the fuel filter.
50 pic
--> It's time to take of the access cover, simple unscrewing of 4 screws will
do the trick.
51 pic
with the cover pulled up
52 pic
Pull out the cord from the connector first
53 pic
gt; use a rachet to loosen the banjo bolt (prepare for small fuel leak, have rag
on hand) as well as pull vaccum hose off of the nipple. Lastly, there will be 6
nuts that hold down the cover plate, remove those.
54 pic
NOw you are ready to pull the fuel pump out of the gas tank. Pull up and at a di
agonal to remove it, should just slide out like so.
55 pic
--> Once you have it out of the car, it's ready to swap the old fuel pump wit
h the new walbro fuel pump. using a flat head screw driver, gently pop off the g
reen "safety clip" that is holding the wire plug together. Once you poped it off
, unplug the connector. Make sure not to lose the green safety clip because you
will need it again to reinstall.
56 pic
--> Using plyers, pull the rubber hose off the nipple. NOw the fuel pump is f
ree to come off the mount, just pull on it and it should come off( it may feel h
ard to come off, but that's just cus the rubber bushing makes it have a tight fi
t.)
57 pic
Compare your new walbro to your Oem fuel pump to make sure everything looks the
same. In my case, the company i ordered from did not send me the correct filter
to for my application, so I had no choice but to re-use the stock filter.
58 pic
For reinstallation, just do all removal backwards. snap fuel pump into mount, co
nnect rubber hose to nipple, plug connector back into place, snap "safety clip"
onto the connector, slide fuel pump down and diagonal into fuel tank, hook up ru
bber hose, tighten banjo bolt, plug wire connector, tighten 6 nuts to fuel plate
, screw down fuel tank access plate back down tight, clip back seats back into c
hassis, tighten back seat bolt. COMPLETE

Step 7: Installing Dsm Injectors

-->Buy a set of dsm injectors
60 pic
;First, relieve fuel pressure just like you did while installing the fuel pump,
if not relieved already.
--> Using a flat head screwdriver, you can unclip the metal wire that holds t
he injector clips onto the stock injectors.
61 pic
Take a 10mm socket with an extension on it, loosen and remove the three nut that
hold the fuel rail down to the manifold.
62 pic
The fuel rail should now be able to pulled off. When the injectors slip out of t
he manifold, there will be two o-rings below it, make sure you dont loose them.
The injectors pop right out of the fuel rail. Here is the stock injectors(brown)
compared to the dsm injectors(blue)
63 pic
Cut the two wires leading to the stock injector clips, leave enough wire on eith
er side so that you can rewrire the stock clips back in if you need/want to.
64 pic
Strip the two wires
65 pic
The four pairs wires coming off the fuel rail will have a common color of wire
and one random color wire. If you look at the dsm clips, it will also have one c
ommon color wire and one random color wire.
The fuel rail has common yellow/black wire, and the dsm has common red wire. Tak
e the common from each side, and solder them together for each clip. Then take t
he random wires and solder those together. order does not matter.
66 p
SOlder the wires together and use electrical tape to cover and protect the expos
ed wire.
67
Now that the clips are on, it's on to perparing the o-rings for installation. Th
e tip of the injector on the dsm is wider in diameter then the stock injectors.
This means you need to either buy larger o-ring injectors, or bore out the o-rin
gs to fit.
Here is an side by side comparison of the diameter difference.
68
decided to bore out the o-rings due to time constraint. I happened to have the p
erfect dremel bit to do the job.
69
I only used the larger hard o-ring because the soft ones would not work with the
dremel. I HAVE NOT had any leaks by only useing large o-ring.
--> Install the injectors just like you took them out. tighten down 3 nuts to
hold fuel rail in. the blue looks good
70
Step 8: Installing Injector Resistor Box
--> Some obd0 Honda's and some other cars use low impedance injectors which n
eed a resistor box. You can find these at a junk yard or for cheap on ebay.
71
--> On obd1 Honda's, there is a "dead end" clip on the wiring harness in the
right corner of the engine bay. (obd2 has this clip under the intake manifold).
This clip has the electrical power running through it that goes to the injectors
. It is right next to the clutch master cylinder.
72
When you find the clip, pop off the Protecting cover so it exposes the inside.
--> Using a multimeter, check for conductivity between each clip and the end'
s of the "dead-end" connector. The idea is to find which wires actually are rout
ed to the injector clips, so seeing if electricity can flow, you can guess-and-c
heck and find out.
There are eight different wires going into the "dead-end" connector, all of whic
h you must check to see if they are the winners! According to h-t, it could be r
andom placed, so do not assume and follow my example. CHECK FOR YOURSELF TO MAKE
SURE!
73
The red dots are showing which ones came out conductive for me. AGAIN, CHECK FOR
YOURSELF TO MAKE SURE!
--> Once you found out which ones are conductive, move down 2-4 inches and cu
t the wire. This break in to wire is where you will have your resistor tie into
the system. Strip both sides of the new striped wires.
--> If you take a look at your resistor box, there should be 5 wires coming o
ut of it. Four of them should be common color and one of them should be a differ
ent color. Strip all the ends if they are not already.
74
Next, Take the Single different color wire from the resistor box and solder it
to all Four of the wires on the "dead-end" side. See diagram for better explaint
ion.
75
Connect Each one of the Four common color wires from the resistor box to one of
the four yellow/black wires on the Injector side of the cut. Solder each wire se
perately, no order is nessecary.
76
Here is a Diagram I made for better explaintion.
77
gt; Wrap all the exposed wires up with electrical tape and mount the resistor bo
x in the corner. here is the finished product.
78
tep 9: Installing Gm 3bar Map Sensor
--> Purchase Gm 3bar Map Sensor with Pigtail connector From Camp1320.com. It'
s like 80$shipped new!
--> You must find stock map sensor(it is located right ABOVE throttle body).
Clip off the old connector on the harness side of the sensor. Strip and get the
wires ready to solder to somethign new.
--> The new Gm map sensor should have came with a "pigtail" which is the male
side of the connector with wires coming out of it ready to solder together. Str
ip them.
--> I put together a diagrahm on how this should be wired up!
79
Refrence hondata.com's picture of a gm 3bar for the clip wire order..
80
--> Connect a vacuum hose from the map sensor to a good vacuum source. I used
a GE vac manifold again for a good relieable source. You do not want to "t" thi
s vacuum source off anything else, nor have it too long of a hose. The map senso
r is sensitive and extremely important to the performance of your vehicle.
81
--> To check for proper installation, use multimeter to check voltages and co
nductivity. Between wire A and C, there should read 5volts. With ignition "on" b
ut car not running, There should be 1.6Volts between A(GND) and B(map signal).
Step 10: Installing Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold
--> Purchase a Vacuum manifold if you want a cleaner install or need it for m
ultiple vacuum lines. I suggest a Golden Eagle Manifold. http://www.Camp3120.com
to purchase one!
82 83
--> Go to your local automotive parts store to get the vacuum fittings that a
re needed. You will need to buy fittings that are 1/4"npt threaded side, and 1/8
" barbed size. I got three in the pic but bought another later because Advanced
Auto was sold out at the time.
--> This manifold does not come Pre-drilled, that way you can choose how many
holes you want open without having to purchase plugs. I needed to dril out four
holes for my setup. Using a 5/16th drill bit, Drill out the amount of hole that
you will be using for your setup. Try not to hit the threads on the side's of t
he holes. Once you make it through, blow out any scrapes of metal.
84
Use teflon tape and wrap it around the threads of the fitting to insure tight se
al with manifold. Screw them in and tighten them up with a wrench
85 86
gt; Now is the time to find a place to mount it. The location should be no more
then 5" away from the main source vacuum(brake booster line). I used the center-
top area on my firewall where nothing was located. Using a 15/32 bit, make two h
oles useing the manifold as a template before you drill.
87
To make it a nice, secure install, i went ahead and removed the upper plastic ve
nt infront of my windshield. There are about 10 little clips that hold it on.
Hold the manifold up and tighten it down with the bolts/nuts!
88
--> Using a 1/2" vacuum line, measure out the distance in which it will need
to be. YOu need to use a bigger vacuum "t" that can support the 1/2" diameter li
nes. Cut the brake booster line BEFORE the check vavle!
89
Cut the brake booster line BEFORE the check valve!
90
Run the 1/2" line from the T to the side of the Vacuum Manifold
91
--> Connect the rest of the normal size vacuum lines(not sure true size). The
se lines will run to your products that need a good vacuum source. clamp the lin
es on the fittings with hose clamps or zip ties.
92
Finished product. Clean eh?
93
Step 11: Installing Boost Gauge
--> Buy a boost guage of your choice, I went the way I shouldnt have, and bou
ght a cheap ebay boost gauge. Why not buy that guage? cus of course, it's not ac
curate at all.. but I was in a ditch for money. It'll be changed soon enough.
--> First, you gotta wire up your boost gauge. pwr/gnd/dim. there are plenty
of ways to do this wiring, but i found the easiest way was to use your fusebox.
If you take a look at the fuse box, underneath your dash, you will find exactly
the sources of pwr you will need.
--> Your 12v pwr wire should plug in underneath the "radio/cigarettelighter 1
5a fuse" for continuous 12v action. You can plug your Dimming Control wire under
neath your "low-beam" headlight fuse"
94
-->here they are shown pluged in... dont mind the orange wire. red is pwr, pu
rple is dim.
95
--> Now it's time to run your boost/vaccum line to a vaccum source. I used my
GE vaccum manifold for a good vaccum Source, make sure to tap the vaccum from t
he manifold side of the system so that you can read vaccum and boost. There is a
small hole(just right of battery) that allows wires to travel through firewall,
this is a perfect spot to feed your boost line through.
96
--> Keep running the line under and through the dash up to whereever you moun
ted your boost gauge. Pull it in and your all set to read your boost/vaccum!
97
-->I mounted my boost gauge on my steering column for easy viewing...
98
Step 12: Install Hondata Ecu
--> Easiest part of the turbo installation. LAST PART as well!
--> Move to your passenger side of the car, and pull the carpet up from under
neath the dash. You wil have to pop out a few clips to get carpet up and pulled
back. YOu'll see your ecu come out from hiding on the side of the wall.
99
--> The ecu is being held up by a few nuts/bolts. Using a 10mm take them all
off and pull your ecu from it's mounted position. Now that the ecu is free from
it's wall, unclip the harness from the ecu. Plug the new ecu in.. and remount it
back up! Push back carpet and push back all clips!
Congratulations! You have now sucessfully installed a turbocharge in your Honda.
Get ready to be boosted!!!
100
[b]Pre-Start Up:[b]
There are a few things you need/should do before you start it up and start drivi
ng.
--> Refill/check oil and replace oil filter
--> Flush/top off Coolant
--> Go over all electrical wiring again to make sure it's all secure and conn
ected
--> Go over every vacuum hose to make sure it's tight and secure
--> Connect exhaust back up if you have one
--> Pull your spark plug wires and crank the motor a few times to get some oi
l into the brand new turbo
Start Her up!:
--> Turn the ignition and start her up!
--> Let it idle to normal operating tempatures before you drive. While it's i
dleing, check throughly around the oil lines to make sure there's no oil leaks.
--> Fix oil leak if necessary. and take that bitch for a test drive! no push
it at ALL if it's on a basemap of some sort. If your just running a hack or fmu,
take it easy till you know everything is running perfect. Drive down and back o
n the street, and re-check everything!
CONGRATULATIONS! YOU HAVE SUCESSFULLY INSTALLED AND DRIVEN A BOOSTED HONDA!!!!
---> now is the time to go get this Honda tuned so you can really feel boost
:D

Written by iGfrequency(Adam)-->5/10/05