You will need Polymorph, Fimo Soft Modelling Clay, talc and some small round objects.

1) Clean your piece of all mould lines. If you still happen to have it on the plastic sprue, keep it there. The bolter I moulded was not on the sprue. It helps to have the sprue with smaller intricate pieces. It gives you more media to help yank the part from the mould, besides the inevitable flash, which can be pretty thin and often tears right off (we want the flash to be as thin as possible). 2) Boil up your first piece of Polymorph. Quickly roll it into a ball and put it on a piece of glass or tile. 3a) Place your master piece into the Polymorph taking care not to push it much more than halfway into the PM. Take a carving implement and try to get the PM flush to the side of the bedded piece. You want about half of the masterpiece outside of the Polymorph. 3b) Press a few ball bearings around the master piece about 1cm away from the piece. Make sure you dont compromise the work you did in step 3a. 4) Leave your master and the bbs in the mould, run them under cold water for 20 seconds or so. Dry it off thoroughly. 5) Boil up some more Polymorph, a tad more than your original amount. Press it over the first part of your mould, taking care to make sure it captures as much detail as possible from the top of your master piece. I tend to put the more detailed part of the master piece facing upwards as you can be more assured that you capture detail with this step. I like to press the top part of the mould all the way down to the surface you are working on i.e. the bottom piece will be enveloped by the top piece. This helps lining up the mould along with the bbs. 6) While both pieces are stuck together run them under 20 secs of cold water again. The thing about Polymorph is that when warm it has a hard time sticking to cold PM. Prize the mould halves apart and remove the master piece and bbs. Dry everything thoroughly. 7) Grab a small bit, not too much, of your clay. Knead it for a minute or so until it becomes really soft and warm. 8) Dunk your mould halves in talc. Remove them from the talc one at a time and hold them by the edge. Flick the crap out of them with your free hand/fingers. This will make the Polymorph not want to stick as much to the clay. The PM will not stick to the clay if you dont have the talc, but it wont release it as readily, possibly marring your piece. 9) Place an appropriate amount of clay into the bottom part of your mould. The first bit of clay you put in, no matter how conservative, will almost always be too much! Drop your bbs into their indents now to help with lining up the mould.

10) Press your mould pieces together. If you had a sprue on your master piece make a note to try to expel most of the extra clay out of the hole left by the sprue, after making sure the crevices and details of your mould are filled with clay. Polymorph is see-through take advantage. 11) CAREFULLY pry your mould halves apart and pop your bbs out. The clay will want to stick to one side of the mould or other . let it do what it wants. Once you are holding the half of the mould with the clay, you may need to bend the mould a little to pop the clay out. If you have thick enough flash to pull the piece out it likely means that your product is going to be too thick. The Polymorph will bend a bit without cracking. Carefully remove your piece. 12a) Place your piece on a baking tray and bake it at 230 degrees F for 20-25 minutes. The packaging for the Fimo says 30 minutes but youll be doing small pieces a bunch at a time. 13) Remove the pieces from the oven. Theyll cool down rather quickly but just be careful. 14) With the pieces removed having been given a few minutes to cool down they can be handled safely. The cured clay is pretty strong. 15) Handle the piece and use a hobby knife to remove flash. 16) Prime and paint your piece!