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FABHIC INSFECTIN SYSTEMAND GUIDELINES
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The supplier is responsible for performing initial fabric inspection following the NFG Fabric
inspectionguidelinesoutlinedinthissection.TheNFGSupplierFabricInspectionHeportformat,
usedtoreportthefindings,islocatedattheendofthissection.
The initial Supplier's Fabric Inspection Heport is sent to the Agent (agent businesses) or NFG
QualityEngineer(QE)fordirectbusinesses.
TheAgent/NFGQEwillreviewtheinspectionreports.Commentsand/orrecommendationswill
becommunicatedtotheappropriateNFGproductionplanner,withinadayofreceiptofthereport
and sample. Note: fabric exhibitingtailing, listing and/orshading should be heldand a sample
senttoNFGQEforreviewandcomment.
!"##$- proceeds with cutting and sewing. Sample/swatch of the fabric does not need to
besent.
%"&'$ - the Agent comments on the Suppliers Fabric Inspection Heport using the Fabric
Inspection Heport-Defect Comment form and e-mails both forms to the NFG QE. A
sample/swatchofthedefectissenttotheNFGQE,clearlymarkedwithrollidentification,
alongwiththecopyofthereports.Afterreviewingthesamplesandreports,theNFGQE
wille-mailcommentstotheplanner.DependingonwhatAgent/QEadvised,theFlanner
will need to make a decision whether or not the fabric is salvageable and will
communicatethedecisiontotheAgent/Supplier.
AttherequestoftheAgent (agentbusinesses)orNFGFlanners(directbusinesses)an
additional10%isinspected.Theplanneralsonotifiesthemillofthefailure.
Additional10%isinspected.
!"##$-proceedswithcuttingandsewing.Flannerisresponsibleforre-capturingthecost
ofanyclaim.
%"&'$ B 100%inspectionisrequired.
TheplannerwilldirecttheAgent/Suppliertosendasampleofdefectivefabrictothemill
and the planner. The planner is responsible for negotiating with the mill for the cost of
inspection,andre-capturingthecostofsecondqualitygoods(usingachargebackclaim
form).
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Fabricinspectionisthebestwaytodetermineacceptabilityfromaqualityviewpointandtoavoid
loss of material or time during the garment manufacturing process. The mills that produce the
fabricusuallywillinspectbeforeshipping,butitisagoodidea
toinspectfabricbeforecutting.
NFG uses a 4 Foint System for fabric inspection (American Apparel Manufacturers Association
point grading system for determining fabric quality). The flaws or defects are assigned a point-
valuebasedonthelengthofadefectorthedimensionofahole.Themaximumnumberofdefect
points to be counted against any one linear yard is four points. The overall fabric quality is
assessedonthenumberofdefectpointsper100squareyards.
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NFGFroceduresManual-CMTFrocedures\FabricInspectionSystemsandGuidelines-Hev12/2001-Confidential
3
assessedonthenumberofdefectpointsper100squareyards.
Nordstromrequiresthatallproductionfabrictobeinspectedaccordingtothe
4-Foint System. Fabric inspection is done at the mill, a cutting and sewing facility or by an
independentInspectionservice.

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NFGFroceduresManual-CMTFrocedures\FabricInspectionSystemsandGuidelines-Hev12/2001-Confidential
4
The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the acceptability of the Quality and also to map
andmarkdefects.
Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is important prior to spreading and cutting
because:
Spreadingcanbedonemorequicklybecausethespreaderisnotalsoinspectingthefabric.
Acutter'sproductivitywillincreasebecausethedefectsarealreadymarked.
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Trainedinspector
InspectionFrame(lighted)
Fabricrunningface-upintheframe
Lightaboveframe
Inspectorviewsfabricfromadistanceofthreefeet
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The following sampling plan lists the minimum quantity of fabric for each pattern, color way, or
print,whichmustbeinspected.Allrollstobesampledwillberandomlyselectedbytheinspector.
ncearollhasbeenselected,noadjustmentswillbemade.
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LotSize Inspection LotSize Inspection Fercentof
Yards Yards Meters Meters TotalLot
0-2,500 notlessthan500 0-2,300 notlessthan460 20%
2,501-5,000 251-500 2,301-4500 230-450 10%
5,001-20,000 400-1,600 4,501-18,300 360-1465 8%
20,001-30,000 1,200-1,800 18,301-27,400 1,100-1,645 6%
All inspected rolls will be identified with an inspection mark. This mark may not be removed by
anyonepriortotheproductioncutting.
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The4-FointSystemassigns1,2,3and4penaltypointsaccordingtothesizeandsignificanceof
thedefect.Fointsareassignedaccordingtothefollowingcriteria:
4-FINTSYSTEMDEFECTEVALUATIN
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1 <3" <8cm
2 >3"<6" >8cm<15cm
3 >6"<9" >15cm<23cm
4 >9" >23cm
Nomorethan4penaltypointscanbeassignedforanysingledefect.
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NFGFroceduresManual-CMTFrocedures\FabricInspectionSystemsandGuidelines-Hev12/2001-Confidential
5
No linear yard or meter can contain more than 4 points, regardless of the number of defects
withinthatyard
ormeter.
Assign4pointstoeachconsecutivelinearyardormeterinwhichacontinuousrunningdefect
exceeds
9inches(23cm).
Assign4pointstoeachfullwidthdefect.
bvious,noticeableandseveredefectsaretobeassigned4pointsforeachyardormeterin
whichtheyoccur,regardlessofsizeorcontrast.
Assign 4 points for every yard or meter within a shipment, which has any continuous defect
(i.e.,rolltorollshading,narroworirregularwidth,creasing,unevenfinish,barre',skew,etc.).
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FHANINDIVIDUALHLL:
Fointsper100SquareYards = TotalFointsfortherollx3600
InspectedYardsxCuttableFabricWidth(inch)
Fointsper100SquareMeters =
TotalFointsfortherollx100,000
InspectedMetersxCuttableFabricWidth(MM)
FHASHIFMENT:
Fointsper100SquareYards = TotalFointsfortheshipmentx3,600
ShipmentInspectedYardsxCuttableFabricWidth(Inch)
Fointsper100SquareMeters=TotalAverageFointsperLinearMeterx100,000
ShipmentInspectedMetersxCuttableFabricWidth(MM)
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