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Kaunas
May 2007 - May 2008

Walkabout
Adventures by foot

All about ...

Birštonas, Druskininkai,
N°15 - 5Lt
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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving in Kaunas 6
How to go to town once you turn up
The Basics 8
Essential information, from tipping to toilets
History 10
Kaunas was the capital once, you kow
Culture & Events 12
What, where and when
Walkabout 14
Exploring Kaunas on foot
Where to stay 16
A bed for every budget
Dining & Nightlife
Where to eat 21
Cheap and cheery? Or classy and costly?
Cafés 26
Find a top table anywhere in town
Nightlife 27
Wrapping up the wild side
Sightseeing
What to see 30
... or grope, in one case. It’s quirky Kaunas
Getting around 38
How to get here, there and everywhere
Mail & phones 40
Keeping in touch, getting online
Sculptor: Robertas Antinis Snr. Kanklininkas (musician)
Contents 
Kaunas was the capital of Lithuania at one stage (those
pesky Poles soft of ‘borrowed’ Vilnius for a bit) and it was
only fitting that a big glossy churchy thing be constructed
in the then-capital. Christ’s Resurrection Church stands
on a hill and looms over the central parts of Kaunas. You
can’t miss it, but you can find out more about it on page
34. Other Kaunas-was-capital attractions – or, rather, the
other Kaunas-was-capital attraction, is the museum in the
building that was the President’s palace (page 34). Now it is
only attended by statues of Presidents in the garden, and
tourists who have run out of more interesting things to do.
Finding stuff
Shopping 41
Directory 43
Hill of Crosses 45
You‘re closer than you think
Rumšiškės 46
Out of town time travel. Sort of
Birštonas 48
Put up your feet, read and relax
Druskininkai 53
The exploding spa and aqua park
Kėdainiai 60
The centre of Lithuania
Maps
Street index 62
City centre map 63
City map 64
Transport map 66
Country map 68
May 2007 - May 2008
 Foreword
Kaunas is a bit of an unruly little mite. It doesn’t
come up and embrace you with pretty Old Town Europe In Your Pocket
views, and if you’re after a five-star hotel you’re

Get In Your Pocket before you go

in the wrong city. Indeed, Kaunas is actually a bit
shabby and ugly. But stick with it. Show an interest,
give it a chance and it comes up trumps every time.

It would not be an understatement to say that

Kaunas has the best nightclubs in the country. It’s The full In Your Pocket range is available to purchase online at:
also home to the best value restaurants – you can
get wonderful meals here for prices that will leave
you feeling guilty that you didn’t pay more.
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Not only that, but Kaunas has a wonderful range Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

of oddities and curiosities – old abandoned forts, TIRANA BUCHAREST WARSAW ST. PETERSBURG PRAGUE

wacky museums and a nude statue proudly airing 2006 - 2007 April - May 2006 August - September 2006 April 2006 August - September 2006

its apparatus right next to a church. See the ‘cover

story’ box below for more on that one.
A New Look
We‘ve never looked
better: In Your Pocket
gets a makeover

Most importantly, however, is the fact that Blogging

Bucharest
Our guide to the best

Kaunas is the most authentically Lithuanian city.

politically incorrect
comment online
Going to the
chapel
Karlštejn’s renovated

The percentage of native Lithuanians who live in

Easter Greetings jewel
Egg breaking & church
Shopping fever Wilanów walking…
Tirana’s first malls Explore the Polish
Let’s rock
Versailles Russian in Russia Visiting the Bohemian

Kaunas is greater than in any other Lithuanian city.

Paradise
Facade art The best ways to discover
the language
Painting the city pink Out of town
Poland‘s top spa town:
Nałęczów
April 2006 N°24 Culture & Events

That may or may not matter to you, but it’s worth

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remembering that it’s only in Kaunas that you

can claim to have seen the living, beating heart of Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Lithuania. Enjoy. Much has been happening at In Your Pocket sin-

KRAKÓW TALLINN BELFAST COLOGNE

ce our last issue, not least the launch in February August - September 2006 April - May 2006 August - September 2006 June - July 2006

Cover story of our new-look website at www.inyourpocket. Football events

Win or lose, this is

com, packed with new features and even easier

where to party

River tours

A view from the foot of the statue of

Wine and dine on the

to use than before. We also recently became

Rhine

a naked Man. Really, the statue is

The Great

the first publisher to produce a city guide to the Outdoors

Cycling, skydiving and

called Man, and the fact that it’s got

country pursuits

exciting Bulgarian mountain resort of Bansko, Gastro Tourism

Seafood, whiskey and

its bits exposed caused some con- St. George’s Market

sternation in this conservative town. while elsewhere research and writing continue Tarnów

ahead of an early-summer launch for guides to

Touring Narva
Explore the Pearl of the Cool sights at the EU‘s

Read about the erection problems

Renaissance eastern border

Leisure

Katowice (Poland), Kaliningrad (Russia) and

IYP gets a new
Getting active in Kraków

on page 35. The Russian Orthodox look

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BERLIN GDAŃSK Including

RIGA HAMBURG ŁÓDŹ
SOPOT & GDYNIA
August - September 2006 August - November 2006 April - May 2006 June - July 2006 September - December 2006

Editorial Copyright notice

Editor Andrew Quested Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė 1992-2007; some photos, LATGA-A;
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Researcher Urtė Jankauskaitė maps, cartographer. All rights reserved.
Cover Photo Andrew Quested No part of this publication may be Kashubia

reproduced in any form, except brief Exploring the Polish Alps

Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket Sales & Circulation extracts for the purpose of review, Museum night
Hot spots
The Baltic’s Beaches
Hockey Fever
Everything you need to
know about IIHF World
Harbour tours
Down in the docks
Hollyłódź
Poland‘s cinema city

Vokiečių 10-15 Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket without written permission from the
100 museums in one
night
Championship in Riga

Explore Latvia
Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party
Stars in your
eyes
From Polanski to Max

Vilnius, Lithuania Floating the Take a day trip to Factor, read about the

publisher and copyright owner. The brand

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General Manager Gabija Thomson

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ISSN 1896-1169
Spree river tours N°1

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Complimentary copy
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fax (+370-5) 212 29 82 Sales Manager Rasa Jankauskaitė from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15,
vilnius@inyourpocket.com Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212 29 76).
Circulation Manager
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www.inyourpocket.com Darius Pralgauskas SKOPJE FRANKFURT SHKODRA PRISTINA KAISERSLAUTERN

Editor’s note
tel. +370 624 838 34 2006 - 2007 August - September 2006 2006 - 2007 2006 - 2007 June - July 2006

ISSN 1822-1785 The editorial content of In Your Pocket

©UAB “VIYP”
Printed by A.Jakšto spaustuvė
Published once a year
Available for 5Lt from bookshops,
kiosks, hotels and Tourist Information
Centres. We are proud to be the
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advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers‘ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
Football events
Win or lose, this is
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17,000 copies cafés and the back pocket of anyone the accuracy of the information at the Skopje
snapshots
Shkodra
snapshots
Feature 2 - max
2 lines
Short description of the

walking slowly. time of going to press and assume no

The Marubi photo The Marubi photo feature. Should be max.
collection collection 3 lines.

Around town Around town

responsibility for changes and errors. Daytrips to the lake,
beach and mountains
Beach bars
Daytrips to the lake,
beach and mountains
Football events
Win or lose, this is
Cocktail in hand, toes where to party
in sand
Going Palatine
Dram tram Strolling in the forest
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Kaunas In Your Pocket

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 Arriving in Kaunas Arriving in Kaunas 

Arriving by bus Arriving by train Airport Fuel Stops

Kaunas’s bus station is a purely functional affair offering The train station may have been recently renovated, but the
little in the way of modernity or comfort and plenty in the people who use it haven’t. Left luggage (bagažo kasa) can You haven’t really arrived in Lithuania until you’ve eaten
way of concrete, shady looking characters in tracksuits, and be found at the front of the building (open 07:00 - 11:00, cepelinai. These are big, boiled dumplings formed with a
rubbish bin fires. Try to arrange to leave before you get there, 12:00 - 19:00). gluggy paste of grated potato. Usually there is a lump of
if you know what we mean. If you’ve been stuck on a bus for ground meat inside about the size of a small guinea pig,
hours, well maintained toilets (open 04:30 - 23:00, 0.70Lt) not that that should make you in any way suspiscious.
can be found hiding behind the buildings on the southeast Tourist information Curd versions are also available. While they’re not really
side of the station. traditional Lithuanian food they are tremendously popular
Kaunas Regional Tourist here and are often considered to be the centrepiece of
Getting to town Information Centre E-2, Lithuanian ‘cuisine’. Here are a couple of places where
The bus station is a five-minute walk to the centre of town Laisvės 36, tel. 32 34 36, you can try cepelinai on your way to, for from, the airport.
and something more like a twenty-minute stroll away from i n f o@k a u n a s t i c. l t , w w w. Others are listed on pages 25-26.
Old Town. If you’re laden with luggage you might prefer to kaunastic.lt. A swish space for Kaunas International Air Shed
take a taxi or public transport. To do so, exit the station, walk a helpful crowd. If they don’t know Briedžių medžioklė Vilniaus 54, Karmėlava (12km
about 100m to your left, and jump on any trolleybus (they all it, nobody does. Also at Kaunas out of town), tel. 39 92 11, briedziumedziokle@
go via the centre). See the Getting Around section (page 40) Castle, Papilio 17, tel. 32 34 36, Getting to town from the train station delfi.lt. If you want to have a family or friendly gather-
for details on using public transport. fax. 42 36 78, www.kaunopilis. Taxis can be found to the right of the station on exiting, ing to celebrate your arrival and/or departure from
lt. Open (Jun - Aug) 10:00-18:00. and the gentlemen behind the wheels suffer from the exact Lithuania, this is the ideal place. It’s a big informal kind
Kaunas International Airport
Arriving by road (Karmėlava), tel. +370 616 509 91. Q Open (May and
same symptoms as those at the airport – greed. If you
pay more than 7Lt for a trip to Old Town, congratulations.
of dining hall with a mixture of wooden benches and
real furniture, somewhere for the kids to play, a nice
Kaunas isn’t the most thoughtfully signposted city in the Sep) 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. You’ve just been ripped off. Make sure the meter is running terrace for summer, and a menu full of good, simple
world. Add to that a rather complicated one-way system in Open (Jun - Aug) 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. before the handbrake is released. Trolleybuses 3, 5, 7 and meals that will keep everyone happy. They also claim
the centre and you have a slight challenge on your hands. Oh Closed Sun. Open (Oct - Apr) 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14 all leave from the first stop on the right-hand (north) side to make monster-sized cepelinai, a point they make
– and then there’s those roundabouts that are so big that you - 17:00. Closed Sun. of Vytauto, directly opposite the station. To get there, use n on e-to o-sub tl y wi t h t h e roa d sid e fi gure of a
don’t realize that they are aroundabouts until you have done Tourism Information Centre Mūsų Odisėja J-5, the swanky new green underpass, complete with stair-lifts 14f t bl on d e A ma zonian woman, bikini s t rain-
three laps. Once you get to where you’re going, you have to Čiurlionio 15, tel. 40 84 10, fax 40 84 11, info@ for wheelchairs. ing to contain h er comicall y large breasts, hold-
park. Parking meters don’t accept coins, and work only on turinfo.lt, www.turinfo.lt. Friendly, and offering the ing a plate with a pair of similarly sized dumplings.
same services as the above-mentioned people. Note QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. TALGBS
a debit card system. You can buy cards at any kiosk (if you
can find one that hasn’t run out of stock) but we’re not sure that this lot can also arrange car rental. QOpen 09:00 Arriving by plane
where you are supposed to park while buying a card. To top - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The airport is 12km north of Kaunas. It’s small and not too Tigrasa Vilniaus 16, Karmėlava (12km out of town),
it all off, Kaunas drivers are all as mad as cut snakes. busy, making baggage reclaim and customs formalities fast tel./fax 54 16 30. A rambling, ramshackle former
and efficient. There is an ATM outside, to your left as you house looking building that is swarmed upon by raven-
exit. A small currency exchange is in the centre of the main ous construction workers, taxi drivers, miscellaneous
hall and has a confusing array of opening times that seem overalled orang-utans and other hungry passers-by.
to be scheduled around flight times. They slop up big, wet cepelinai with abandon and cheap
beer flows almost freely. Could be ideal as your first, or
Getting to town last, impression of Lithuania. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
Greedy taxi drivers sit outside the arrivals hall, and as is TEGBS
usual in Lithuania wish only to make you spend more money
than you should. Try to negotiate a fare before setting off,

Get In Your Pocket before you go and expect to pay around 20Lt for a trip to the centre. Local
minibus number 120 runs regularly into the centre of the city
for a mere 1.50Lt. You can also get bus 29 from the bus stop
The full In Your Pocket range is available to purchase online at: out the front of the airport.

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TIRANA WARSAW PRAGUE BERLIN TALLINN

2006 - 2007 August - September 2006 August - September 2006 August - September 2006 April - May 2006

Going to the
chapel
Karlštejn’s renovated
jewel
Shopping fever Wilanów
Tirana’s first malls Explore the Polish
Let’s rock
Versailles
Visiting the Bohemian Touring Narva
Paradise Museum night Cool sights at the EU‘s
Facade art 100 museums in one eastern border
Painting the city pink Out of town night
Poland‘s top spa town:
Nałęczów
IYP gets a new
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BUCHAREST BELFAST RIGA COLOGNE HAMBURG KRAKÓW

April - May 2006 August - September 2006 April - May 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 August - September 2006

Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party

River tours
Wine and dine on the
A New Look Rhine
We‘ve never looked
better: In Your Pocket
gets a makeover
The Great
Blogging Outdoors
Cycling, skydiving and
Bucharest country pursuits
Our guide to the best
politically incorrect
comment online
Gastro Tourism
Seafood, whiskey and
St. George’s Market

Hockey Fever
Everything you need to
know about IIHF World
Championship in Riga
Harbour tours
Down in the docks

Football events
Win or lose, this is
Tarnów
Explore the Pearl of the
Renaissance
 The Kaunas telephone code
is +370 37
Explore Latvia where to party Leisure
Take a day trip to Getting active in Kraków
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Kaunas In Your Pocket May 2007 - May 2008

 Basics Basics 

Alcohol Floors Climate

We don’t want to sound like your mum, but it has to be said:
Go easy. Lithuanian beer is all light and bright in terms of taste
and texture, but packs a punch. It seduces you like Lolita in
a summer dress and then takes you down like a body slam
from Jabba the Hut. It can even lead gentlemen to go to bed
with one and wake up with the other.
All this is because, despite their wispy appearance, local
beers tend to have an alcohol content of around five percent,
cost comparatively little, are sometimes served in hilariously
large vessels (such as a tall bubbling tube that looks like
something out of ‘Charlie and the Beer Factory’) and are
generally consumed in environments where being sensible
or going home are not the most attractive options.
The common local brands are Horn, Kalnapilis, Švyturys,
Utenos, Ragutis and Tauras, all of which come in a confusing
variety of varieties. In most places, however, you can just say
‘beer’ and get whatever is going without being disappointed
or ripped off. In Old Town and central areas, expect to pay
somewhere in the region of 5 - 10Lt for half a litre.
Post modernism
Disabled travellers
Despite the Miss Disability contest held in Kaunas recently,
Lithuania does have an attitude toward disability that is a
bit more mature than ‘just because you’re in a wheelchair
doesn’t mean you’re not sexy.’ In terms of bad taste, Miss
Disability was up there with Miss Captivity, the beauty
pageant for female prison inmates held in 2002.
In Lithuania the ground floor is referred to as the first floor.
Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm
Money 30 100
The unit of currency in Lithuania is the litas (Lt), which comes 20 75
in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500Lt notes.
Coins come in two categories: the significant 1, 2, and 5Lt 10
coins; and the nearly weightless centas/centai/centų coins 50
of which there are 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. The value of the 0
litas is locked to that of the euro (€) at 3.4528Lt to €1. 25
-10
Lithuania was keen to adopt the euro at the start of 2007,
but their application was knocked back by the EU because -20 J F M A M J J A S O N D 0
they missed an inflation target by 0.1 per cent. With inflation
increasing, it is not clear when Lithuania will be able to adopt
the euro. Keep your litas handy.
Most places of any note in cities now happily accept credit Tipping
cards, and ATMs dot the streets ensuring cash for everyone Only required to reward good service, or to round-up the bill
with money in their account and a card attached to the Cirrus and save yourself the nuisance of carring around shrapnel in
or Visa network. Travellers’ cheques can be redeemed for the form of small useless coins. Ten per cent is fair.
cash in hotels and banks. If you’re heading out of town,

When exploring local spirits, watch out for Žalgiris, named
after the greatest battle of medieval Europe. With 75 per cent
alcohol content, it has the potential to make you feel that the
battle is taking place inside your eyeballs.
Lithuanian vodka (degtinė) is worth trying as it stacks
up to, if not topples over, many of its Russian and Polish
counterparts. Numerous herb and fruit-based liquors will
often line the inside of a drinks menu; most work as a
pleasant accompaniment to tea. The local variation of
champagne, Alita, is a bit more like alcoholic 7-Up than
grown-up sparkling white wine.
Customs
While things have greatly improved for the disabled over the
past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get around
on anything other than two well functioning legs. Even places
that claim to be wheelchair friendly are often flanked by deep
kerbs or stairs, or are located on cobbled streets. Outside the
capital and the central areas of Kaunas, you’ll be lucky to find
any thought given to wheelchair accessibility at all.
It is becoming common for good international-standard
hotels to be wheelchair friendly, offer hearing loops in
conference facilities, and even to offer rooms fitted out for
the disabled. See the key in our Where to stay listings (page
16) and call ahead to discuss your specific needs before
making any bookings.
cash-up before you go – it can be as hard to find an ATM
in Kapčiamiestis or Skaistgirys as it can be to pronounce
the name.
Safety
Exercise common sense. Don’t flaunt your wealth and flash
your cash. Don’t walk home from a nightclub along dark
alleys while draped in jewellery or blinking technology. Stay
cautious, look like you know where you are going (zigzagging
won’t help) and you will be fine. Truly heinous crimes are rare
here, but theft is becoming common. Don’t leave mobile
phones, wallets, purses, or fashion-accessory pooches
unattended or out of your direct reach. Especially at street
side cafés or in bars. Green-uniformed police are supposed
Visas
For perhaps the first time in history Lithuania has no
apparent adversaries, which means
there are plenty of countries with
visa-free travel agreements. To date
these include Australia, Canada, New
Zealand, Switzerland and the US, plus
Nordic countries, although you should
note that the periods for which citizens
are allowed to stay in Lithuania before requiring a visa are
different for each country. EU citizens can live and work in
Lithuania for as long as they like but must get a resident
permit. For more information, take a look at www.urm.lt.

Criminal masterminds take note: Lithuanian customs officers
have recently demonstrated that one cannot expect to arrive
on a plane with a crocodile, skate across a frozen river
wearing a snowy white camouflage kimono and hauling a
sledge full of cigarettes, hide a late model Mercedes under
a pile of onions on the back of a truck, or carry cocaine in
your handbag. All such cunning schemes have been foiled
at the border.
Other than such obvious considerations, those arriving from
EU countries have no import restrictions placed upon them
– although you will need to make it known if you are arriving
with 10,000Lt or more in cold, hard cash.
When arriving from non-EU countries, you are entitled to
bring in one litre of spirits or two litres of wine or beer and
200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco.
You can bring 50g of perfume and 250ml of eau de toilette
(that’s just diluted perfume, for those men among you who
don’t speak poof). You can’t bring plants, meat, milk or meat
and dairy products from outside the EU except under certain
circumstances. You can’t arrive with live birds. Dogs require
vaccinations and passports (or other proof of vaccination).
You can take home as much art as you wish tax-free unless
it’s over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay 10-20 per
cent duty. Take two photos of the art piece and your passport
to the Committee of Cultural Heritage, Šnipiškių 3, tel. +370
5 272 40 05/+370 5 272 41 13 (Vilnius). Many of the better
antique shops (page 44) and galleries (page 12) in Kaunas
can take care of all the paperwork for you. For more detailed
information check www.cust.lt and www.vet.lt.
The new trolleybuses in Kaunas have low entries, spaces
for wheelchairs, and hearing loops (so you, along with all the
other passengers, can be misinformed about which stop is
next when the windows are all fogged up).
There are some pedestrian crossings that go ‘beep-beep-
beep – tikka-tikka-tikka’ and so on so that blind people know
when to cross the road, but in our experience blindness
seems to affect drivers more than anyone else, so we would
advise extreme caution anyway.
Electricity
Lithuania has a nuclear power plant of the same questionable
design as the one that popped its rivets in Chernobyl. It’s still
gently humming away about 200km north-east of Kaunas,
but will be closed down as a condition of Lithuania’s EU
membership. The first of two reactors was shut down as
promised at the end of December 2004, and the second
must go offline by the end of 2009. Lithuania, Latvia and
Estonia have agreed to join forces and build a new nuclear
power plant in Lithuania which should go online by 2015.
Regardless of where the electricity is produced, it pours
out of European style two-pin sockets at 220V, 50Hz AC.
Travellers from outside Europe, or from that strange little
island in Europe that still uses big three-prong monster plugs,
should bring an adaptor. The best place to look for adaptors
would be the Senukai DIY superstores. There’s one in the
Mega shopping centre listed on page 45. Did we mention
that you really should bring an adaptor?
to be keeping the peace in Kaunas, although finding
one when you need one is like looking for a cucumber Basic data
in a haystack.
Population
Lithuania 3,445,700 Kaunas 378,943
Smoking
Since the start of 2007, smoking has been banned in pretty
Ethnic composition (Lithuania)
Lithuanians 83.45% Poles 6.74% Russians 6.31%
much all venues. That includes cafés, bars, restaurants, Belarusians 1.23% Ukrainians 0.65% Others 1.62%
clubs and any establishment that serves anything alleged to
be food. There are exceptions for ‘specially equipped’ cigar Territory
and pipe clubs and venues that have closed-door rooms 65,303km2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and
where there are no staff for you to passively poison. As far as the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland,
we know, the Ex-It nightclub is the only such venue in Kaunas,
but Lithuanians love a smoke so more could turn up during
peppered with many lakes. North to south, the great-
est distance is 276km, east to west is 373km
the course of the year. Other than that, many venues have
set up ashtrays by their doors, so if you want to have a puff, Borders
get some not-so-fresh air or poison some passers-by, all you Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia 453km
have to do is step outside. Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km
Longest river
Speed limits Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania)
In town, keep your speedometers hovering around 50km/h Largest lake
unless indicated otherwise, and on country roads stay below Drūkščiai 4,479ha
90km/h. On the Vilnius-Kaunas motorway no faster than
100km/h is legal and all other motorways are 110km/h from Highest point
Oct 1 - Apr 1 and 130km/h for the rest of the year. Don’t Juozapinė 293.6m
follow the example of leadfoot locals.
Local time
Eastern European Time (GMT+2hrs). When it’s 12:00
 The Kaunas in Vilnius it’ll be 11:00 in Paris, 10:00 in London and
05:00 in New York.
telephone code is +370 37

Kaunas In Your Pocket May 2007 - May 2008

10 History
Kaunas, considered the most Lithuanian of all Lithuanian cit-
ies, has always played a pivotal role in the country’s history.
The city is strategically located in the centre of the country
at the confluence of the Neris and Nemunas rivers.
12th century
Arabic cartographer Al Idrisis marks Kaunas on a geographical
map in 1140, as Quaynu, Qanys or Kabnu. A small fort is built
on the site of the present Kaunas castle.
13th century
Under constant attack from the Teutonic and Livonian knights,
the area is slow to develop as a city. Eventually the castle in
Kaunas is built in order to defend the city from its contstant
onlsaught of invaders.
14th century
First mention of Kaunas in a 1361 crusader chronicle: it
is described as a famous fortress of the Lithuanian Grand
Duchy.
15th century
Kaunas acquires the Magdeburg charter in 1408 guarantee-
ing its autonomy as a town. Polish-Lithuanian armies, led by
Grand Duke Vytautas, decisively defeat the Teutonic knights
at the battle of Žalgiris (Tannenberg-Grünwald) in 1410. Upon
his death (1430), the Grand Duchy extends from the Baltic
to the Black Sea. By 1441 the Hanseatic league establishes
a post in Kaunas because of its location near the Nemunas
river that connects the city to the Baltic seacoast. Economic
ties with Europe grow. The post remains until 1532.
A lot of bull
In the 1400s one of the first stamps or seals of Kaunas
city was made. It featured a
white bull in the centre. On
May 2, 1935, the Kaunas
town council approved an
emblem for the city. The
design, by J.Burba, was a
rectangular-shaped em-
blem, divided horizontally
with the top background as
red with a white auroch (an
extinct variety of bull once
common in the Lithuanian
plains) with a gold cross on
his head. The bull’s horns
and hooves along with the bottom portion of the emblem
were golden. Later in 1969 another emblem created by
V.Banys was approved. Once again the white auroch, but
this time sans cross and facing towards the viewer, was
the main focus of the shield-shaped or triangular em-
blem. Later still in 1993, a presidential decree decided
that Mikevičius’s design was to be the city’s symbol.
The white auroch prevailed as the symbol of the city.
However, the newest design featured a bull far more
sinewy, powerful and overtly masculine in appearance.
The cross reappeared on its head in an emphatically
Catholic way. Today the auroch appears on Kaunas city’s
flags. Kaunas, as a city with its own seal, coat-of-arms
and flag also, of course, has its own special day. May
20th is Kaunas City Day as that was the date in 1463
when Kazimieras Jogailaitis renewed and expanded the
privileges of the city. The original of the documents is
kept in an archive in St. Petersburg, but Kaunas city hall
managed to retain a copy.
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Old Town - the historical bit
16th century
With the Union of Lublin (1569), Poland and Lithuania form a
Commonwealth. The city of Kaunas grows with the introduc-
tion of its first school and public hospital. However, the death
of the last Lithuanian king of the Jagiellonian line (1572)
results in the marginalisation of Lithuanian culture among
the nobility who become increasingly Polonised. Lithuania
nevertheless retains significant control over its legal and
domestic affairs. The Lithuanian language remains spoken
by farmers and peasants in the provinces.
17th century
Continuous warfare with Russia and Sweden stifles economic
development. Tsar Alexis’ armies burn Kaunas to the ground
(1655). A plague claims many of the city’s inhabitants in
1657.
18th century
Swedish troops seize the city in 1701.Two large fires, one
in 1731 and another in 1732, result in many of the city’s
buildings being heavily damaged. In 1795 Kaunas comes
under Russian Tsarist control as a result of the last partition
of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.
19th century
Napoleon, having conquered Prussia in 1807, begins his
fateful assault on the Russian empire from a hill above Kaunas
in 1812. Following his loss, Kaunas becomes the Russian
empire’s westernmost point of strategic defence. A large garri-
son is stationed in the city and a massive ring of fortifications
is built around it. Strict censorship and intense Russification
under tsarist rule leads to the 1863 national uprising. The
rising intelligentsia nurtures a national ideal based on the
rebirth of the Lithuanian language and, in the late 1800s, a
revival of Lithuanian culture and tradition begins. Kaunas’s
economic development, though, is somewhat augmented by
Russia’s takeover as the Oginsky canal is built to connect the
Nemunas and Dnieper rivers. Moreover the railway connecting
Russia and Germany goes through the area.
 The Kaunas
telephone code is +370 37
20th century
In 1918, a Lithuanian Council (Taryba) officially proclaims the
Republic of Lithuania. On October 9, 1920, Poland breaks the
Suwalki agreement and annexes Vilnius. Kaunas becomes
the provisional Lithuanian capital. During the inter-war period,
Lithuania prospers as an independent republic under Antanas
Smetona (1926 - 1940, pictured left). The city becomes a
vibrant centre for cabaret singers, writers and architects.
Dozens of Art Deco and Bauhaus style buildings are erected.
Bridges are built across the Nemunas and Neris rivers, in
order to link the suburbs of Aleksotas and Vilijampolė with
the centre. Public buses wind their way through the city’s
streets by 1924 and by 1928 many of city’s buildings have
indoor plumbing.
Lithuanian independence ends with the signing of the Molo-
tov-Ribbentrop pact (1939) between Hitler and Stalin, who
carve up spheres of influence in Eastern Europe. Lithuania
is subjected to Soviet and Nazi occupation in turn. Between
1941 and 1944 SS and Gestapo units, assisted by locals,
organise the liquidation of Jews. The once vibrant Jewish
community is forced into the notorious Kaunas (Kovno) Ghetto
and a massive forced labour and extermination campaign is
begun. In 1941, tens of thousands of Jews are summarily shot
during one two-day period alone. Over 200,000 Litvaks (Lithu-
anian Jews) and European Jews are murdered. The return of
the Red Army and the re-incorporation of Lithuania into the
USSR (July 7, 1944) result in the deportation of 250,000
Lithuanians to Siberian settlements and the Gulag. Lithuanian
partisans wage guerrilla warfare until 1953.
Kaunas then becomes an important centre for technical edu-
cation, medical research, transportation and manufacturing.
For most of the Soviet period, Kaunas is a ‘closed’ city. An
important military airfield is built in the Karmėlava suburb.
On May 14, 1972, a 19-year-old student Romas Kalanta
immolates himself in Kaunas’ public gardens in one of the
first open acts of defiance against the Soviet system. His
death sparks riots, the first major public protests against
Soviet rule. In 1988 with the rising might of the liberation
movement working in their favour, the city of Kaunas sets
about restoring and revitalizing the city’s architecture, when
possible, back to its pre-Soviet glory. In 1991 whilst Soviet
troops were storming the Vilnius television tower, some resi-
dents of Kaunas defended the Sitkūnai radio and television
transmitter should it be attacked. Any sort of nominal control
the Soviets had over the country is dismantled by the failed
putsch in Moscow in August.
21st century
2001 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania from June 23-27, and
drops in on Kaunas.
2002 The Lithuanian currency, the litas, which was re-
introduced in 1993 is pegged to the Euro as opposed to
the US dollar.
2004 The independent republic of Lithuania becomes a
fully-fledged member of NATO. On May 1, Lithuania becomes
a member of the European Union. On July 19, two WWII
explosives are found under Aleksotas bridge (A-3).
2005 On September 15 a Russian SU-27 fighter bound for
Kaliningrad veers off course and crashes into a field 55km
north of Kaunas, prompting much gossip about spying and
incompetence and sparking a bit of a tiff between Lithuania
and Russia. On October 30, a renovated Aleksotas bridge
re-opens to traffic after having spent a decade being clas-
sified as ‘avarinis’, which roughly translates to ‘accident
waiting to happen’.
2006 May 16 Lithuania becomes the first European Union
country to have it’s application to adopt the euro currency
turned down, with inflation being cited as the culprit.
History 11
What’s in a name?
A common temperament among Lithuanians is that
of the need to revive their glorious past, which usually
leads to some fascinating, if not altogether true, stories.
The tale of how Kaunas was founded and named is no
exception.
Due to the late introduction of Christianity into the area
almost all places in the country have sacred pagan areas
that can still be pointed out by the locals. According to folk
beliefs the city of Kaunas was named for the child of two
star-crossed lovers. Milda, like most folk maidens, was
stunning and pure of heart – so much so that she tended
to the holy fire on the Hills of Aleksotas and rebuked any
lad’s advances. That is, until she met Daugerutis, who
with the help of his trusty nightingale-like voice was able
to woo her successfully. Milda, like most folk maidens,
also had a mean stepmother out to ruin her life. The step-
mother informed the gods of the couple’s transgression.
Daugerutis was sentenced to be burnt in the sacred fire.
Milda, in desperation, hid him with the help of the priest
Auskaras. Unfortunately Milda in all the panic slacked
off on her holy eternal fire duties, causing the flame to
be extinguished. As punishment, both young lovers now
would be sent to the flames. Once again, Auskaras took
pity on the couple and hid them in a cave beneath the fire.
There they lived for many years, and bore a son named
Kaunas, who would later found the city across the river
from the Aleksotas Hills.
Another story sprang up during the Renaissance during
which time the best way to have won friends and influ-
enced people was to claim a heritage that stretched back
to the Roman Empire or Ancient Greece. No easy feat for
the noblemen of these Baltic climes, but as it happened
an interesting fabrication sprung from this idea by way of
the historian Albertas Vijūkas-Kojelavičius History in 1650.
According to him, in 908 a papal crisis forced the Pope
to re-locate along with 500 of the top Roman families.
Among these families, the Palemonas (descendent of
noble Trojan family), Julijonas, Prosperas Cezarinas, Ursi-
nas and Hektoras, were believed to have moved to near
the river Dubysa, where they founded a city called Roma
Nova. (In Lithuanian the settlement was named Ramovė,
meaning sanctuary or ‘rami vieta’, a quiet place.) Then
around 970 Palemonas’s death led his three sons to move
further out into the country. Barkus is believed to have
founded the city of Jurbarkas and the Žemaitija area. Son
number two, Spera, supposedly lived on Nevėžis shores
in the city of Spera. And the last son, Kunas, of course,
founded Kaunas. This story also explains the name of
Palemonas hill in Kaunas. Later Kunas was able to take
away all the lands from his brother’s possession and his
son, Kernusius (or Kernius), founded Kernavė, where the
Lithuanian capital was transferred from Kaunas.
Science and fact, always sort of a kill-joy to most storytell-
ing, maintains that human inhabitants to the region were
found here before the time of Christ with more permanent
settlements founded in the fifth and sixth centuries.
Some linguist believe that the word Kaunas can be traced
back to an ancient word meaning ‘deep’, as the city is
nestled into a valley. Whatever the case, both stories work
as parables: the folk tale, reminiscent of the phoenix rising
from the ashes, is apropos considering the city’s history. And
the attempt to create a Roman lineage, points to how a small
country will vie for its place on the world map .
May 2007 - May 2008
12 Culture & Events
Building drama
Musical Theatre
Subtly hunkering behind Kaunas’s most central green bit,
the Kaunas State Musical Theatre is one of the cities
most gently grand buildings. The central park before it,
which sprouted new children’s play equipment in the last
year, is often alive with activity in summer, as families flop
about on the grass, young couples explore each other’s
tonsils and the limits of public decency, and kids run
around shrieking. The musical theatre seems to watch
over all this with a demure dignity.
The building has quite a history, however. It all but
exploded into existence in 1891 – it was built within the
space of a year, which is quite remarkable when you think
about it. The building boasted a 500-seat hall, two levels
of balconies, two foyers and a lovely neo-renaissance
style. These days you’d be hard-pressed to knock-up
a poorly constructed shopping centre in neo-carpark
style in less than a couple of years. The quick-as-a-flash
construction, however, would have a price.
The theatre opened on January 9, 1892. As there was
no theatre group in Kaunas, it was only visiting artists
who took to the stage. After only one season, however,
the building had to be renovated. Maybe it was the harsh
frost, maybe a particularly vociferous soprano, or maybe
just one to many door-slamming hissy fits from visiting
Italian performers. The building simply wasn’t holding up
after the first year and repairs were necessary. Getting
it right was a process that lasted until the end of the
century. While the original façade was covered up, some
of it is still visible inside the theatre.
Further reconstruction took place from 1922 till 1925
when the theatre was expanded and given a fresh
new Neo-Baroque appearance. An extra 263 seats
were added, some of which were on a third balcony. An
orchestra pit was also on the new-and-improved list, and
the acoustic qualities of the hall were greatly improved.
Looking around the theatre now, you can see folk-style
motifs (tulips, lilies and daises) in an art-deco kind of style
that were a part of this expansion and renovation.
Less than a decade later, more construction took place
with new features being added to the theatre. One of
them was an iron firewall which arrived just in time to
prevent the whole place burning down in 1931.
The most recent renovations took place from 1980
to 1984, when much of the decoration from the
1930s renovation was re-renovated, so to speak.
Further elements of decoration were also added from
contemporary Lithuanian artists.
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Art galleries
The distinction between art gallery and souvenir shop is
not always crystal clear in Kaunas so though admission to
the following may be cheap, you might end up leaving with
a much lighter wallet after you’ve made a few unexpected
purchases. After all, the art galleries of Kaunas offer good
deals on unique local art and handicrafts.
Du Safyrai B-3, Kurpių 13, tel. 22 77 80, arunas@
kleismantas.eu, www.dusafyrai.com. Original jewellery.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
J flee the capital, attracted by Kaunas’s higher-standard
Eglės Galerija A-2, Raguvos 9-2, tel. 20 58 72, galeri-
jae@takas.lt, www.emm.lt. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. AJ
Fujifilm Gallery A-3, Rotušės 1, tel. 32 17 89. Pho-
tography. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. J
Kauno Langas C-2, Valančiaus 5-6, tel. 20 55 38,
kaunolangas@gmail.com, www.klangas.lt. Contempo-
rary, antique and folk art. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun. AJ
Meno Namai B-3, Vilniaus 13, tel. 20 05 07. Also at
Vilniaus 22, tel. 42 27 25. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 -
17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JA
Meno Parkas A-3, Rotušės 27, tel. 33 71 67, lds@
kaunas.omnitel.net, www.menoparkas.lt. Ceramics,
china, leather, linen, amber items. Gallery staff will take care
about all the necessary permissions you need to export
a piece of art abroad. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun. AJ
Saulutės Galerija D-3, Daukanto 15, tel. 20 75 20, fax
22 80 37. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Slenkstis D-2/3, Laisvės 57, tel. 20 17 83. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
Cinemas
The following show films in the original language with Lithu-
anian subtitles. Check out show times at www.cinema.lt.
Cinamon Islandijos 32 (Mega), tel. 8 700 70 111, info@
cinamon.lt, www.cinamon.lt. It’s in a shopping centre
called Mega, so you know it’s going to offer mainstream
movies multiplex style - in this case with five screens. See
the website for schedules.
Forum Cinemas E-4, Karaliaus Mindaugo 49 (Akropo-
lis), tel. 1567, www.forumcinemas.lt. J
Concert halls
Philharmonic (Kauno filharmonija) D-2, Sapiegos 5,
tel. 22 25 58, www.kaunofilharmonija.lt. Q Open 14:00
- 18:00 (box office). Closed Sun.
VDU Grand Hall E-2, S. Daukanto 28. J
Theatres
Academic Drama Theatre D-2, Laisvės 71, tel. 22
40 64, fax 20 76 93, info@dramosteatras.lt, www.
dramosteatras.lt. A stunning little building in the heart of
the city, putting on all manner of work. Q Box office open
10:30 - 19:00. J
Musical Theatre D-2, Laisvės 91, tel. 22 71 13. Q
Box office open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J
Pantomime Theatre C-2, Kovo 11-osios 26, tel. 45 44
80. Weekend performances. Q Open 14:00 - 18:00. (box
office). Closed Sun, Mon.
culture & Events 13
Festivals and fun
For Lithuania’s second-largest city, Kaunas sure knows
how to put on a first-rate show. The city is rapidly becoming
renowned for cultural events and festivals, and has a magic
ability to attract top acts.
Even if nightlife is not your scene, it’s interesting to note
that Kaunas nightclubs often attract decent international
deejays or veejays or whatever they’re called this week.
Groovy hipster residents of Vilnius are often forced to
nightlife.
Also of musical note is Kaunas Jazz. This international jazz
festival has been running in Kaunas for 17 years, and just
keeps getting better
and better. Earth, Wind
and Fire showed up
here in 2004. People
are still talking about
that. Kaunas Jaz z
g e n e r a l l y r u n s fo r
a week in April and
features a couple of
Kaunas Jazz Laimis Brundza dozen performances,
about half of which are
free. Artists are attracted from some 20 countries, and
the international appeal of the festival is quite remarkable.
The atmosphere during Kaunas Jazz is really something - it
attracts a discerning but enthusiastic crowd that becomes
quickly imbued with hip-swinging, foot-tapping goodwill and
fun. Details are available on www.kaunasjazz.lt. Kaunas Days. At night Ignas Maldžiūnas
Another musical festival centres around Pažaislis (see Less musical, but for many a lot more fun, is the Kaunas
page 37), although not all of the events actually take City Day celebration. While it celebrates one date in the
place there. The Pažaislis Music Festival spans most history of the city – May 20 – festivities actually span
of the summer, from June to September inclusive, with over a few days. May 20 was the date on which Kaunas
classic music performances taking place not just in the was granted renewed and expanded city rights – see ‘A
monastery, but also in venues such as the university, art lot of bull’ on page 10 for details.
galleries, Raudondvaris Castle (see page 39), churches,
the yacht club (pg. 48) and the Town Hall (pg 33). While Kaunas City Days are broader in appeal than any of
organisers of the festival do a great job of stringing the music festivals. There is generally something for
together a list of great performances, they’re not so everyone, and celebrations are loosely centred around a
good at advance planning or publicity. The schedule of theme. ‘Flower path’, for example. Most of the fun takes
events for summer 2007 was unavailable when we went place outdoors and the city takes on a fun and lively
to print, and in recent years they haven’t even bothered atmosphere. The main points of activity are Laisvės Alėja,
to make details available on their own website (www. the Town Hall Square and the area around the castle.
pazaislis.lt). Not even God knows who will perform what
and where this year. At the time of writing, the programme for events in 2007
included a motorcade of old and otherwise interesting
vehicles along Donelaičio street, and children drawing
flowers onto the bicycle path along Laisvės (we really hope
they don’t get run-over). Also included were performances
involving fire taking place around the castle, a Saturday
evening concert at the Town Hall and some kind of
competition called “Retro Girl”. Various other concerts,
events and exhibitions were scattered about the
schedule too. It all sounds very jolly. Most of the daytime
entertainment is quite family oriented, but things can
get a bit rowdy at the Saturday evening concert when
the local yoofs realize, slowly, that Black Sabbath won’t
be showing up.
The official Kaunas Days website - www.kaunodienos.lt
- had no information at all when we checked, but might
have by the time you read this, so check it out if you’re
Kaunas Jazz Laimis Brundza interested.
May 2007 - May 2008
14 kaunas by foot
Kaunas Old Town
Kaunas is a small city, and the best way to familiarize yourself
with it is to put put in the legwork and explore on foot. We’ve
suggested a couple of walks here that will give you a good
overview, but don’t be afraid to turn to the map (page 69)
and choose your own route.
Wherever you wander, however, you should keep in mind that
Kaunas is Lithuania’s most Lithuanian city. It has a higher
percentage of Lithuanians living in it than in the capital of
Vilnius. So, while Vilnius might be the capital of Lithuania,
Kaunas is the capital of being Lithuanian. Exploring Kaunas
gives you a more raw and gritty taste of what being Lithuanian
is all about. It’s tough, hopeful, struggling, a bit left-behind
but too proud to pander.
You’re a lot less likely to hear Russian and Polish being
spoken in Kaunas than you are in Vilnius. You’re also more
likely to come across quirky curiosities, enjoy good traditional
food and mingle with the locals in cafés, bars and nightclubs.
They will happily question you about why you came to Kaunas,
and will engage in conversation about basketball and the
future of their beloved little city. You may get the impression
that the future of Kaunas consists mainly of standing about
talking about basketball and the future of Kaunas. Nothing
much actually happens here and the pace of development
in the city is slothful compared to that of the EU and foreign
investment fund-sucking capital.
However, it is exactly that lack of change, that retained
authenticity, and that refusal or failure to ‘sell out’, that makes
Kaunas interesting. If you’re the sort of traveller who is more
interested in authentic culture than following a well-trodden
tourist route to see a sequence of postcard views, Kaunas
can be a very rewarding city to visit.
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Laisvės Alėja, aka ‘Freedom Avenue’ or ‘catwalk’
Tour the tip
Most of the interesting bits of Kaunas are wedged into the
point of land formed where the Nemunas and Neris rivers
come to meet. The Old Town is as close to this tip as it is
possible to be without being washed away by the flow of the
spring thaws, and starting off with a wander around this area
is a great way to start your stay in Kaunas. From Kaunas
Castle (A-2), follow the path west along the bank of the Neris
through the Santakos or ‘confluence’ park. You will eventually
reach a bit of a tip (roughly accurate in both senses of the
word) and return along the Nemunas. At the point where the
bridge crosses the river you can either cross it and enjoy the
view from Aleksoto Hill (funicular available for those who don’t
want to climb the stairs, see page 40) or turn left and head
into the Town Hall Square (Rotušės aikšte - A-3). Be sure to
return here on Saturday for wedding wackiness.
Do the catwalk
From the Town Hall Square, walk eastward along Vilniaus.
Carry on all the way to the newer part of the city centre
lining Laisvės Alėja (Freedom Avenue). This is the longest
pedestrian street in Lithuania. It’s where people come to
strut their stuff; to see and be seen. Like it or not, it’s hard
to spend a day in Kaunas without walking along Laisvės at
some point. At the far eastern end is Soboras (see page 32),
an imposing great Russian-looking church. Hidden away at
various points along the way are some interesting museums
and monumetns - see our ‘What to see’ section starting on
page 32 for details of possible diversions.
Weddings in Town Hall Square
Kaunas Castle
Green bits
The most pleasant park in Kaunas is the Ąžuolynas parkas
– the Oak Park (see page 37). You can walk through the park
to reach the zoo, which makes a nice outing if you allow plenty
of time and don’t mind looking at caged animals. Beware,
however, that there’s a steep climb on the way before you
actually reach the park itself. The Oak Park is certainly very
pleasant, but we must advise against wandering through
it at night. Some of the local wildlife can get a bit unruly in
hours of darkness.
As you enter the park, you might also notice what looks like
a big aeroplane wing sticking vertically out of the ground.
This is a monument to Steponas Darius and Stasys Girėnas,
two Lithuanian aviators who very nearly completed a
trans-Atlantic flight from America to Kaunas in 1933. Their
flight came to a mysterious end in Germany. A woman out
picking mushrooms discovered the wreck of them and their
plane. Now they, and their little plane, can be seen on the
10Lt banknote. The wreckage of the plane is also, not very
appropriately, housed in the Military Museum (see page 37).
Also of note in the Oak Park is the statue of a bull – see page
10 for details of what that’s all about.
Another out of the way adventure can be had if you cross
the Bridge of Three Maidens (or virgins, depending on how
you choose to translate Trijų mergelių tiltas, M-4 on our
map). This leads to a gorgeous and tranquil forest, and
you’ll notice that there’s even something approximating a
beach over there.
Cyclists and in-line skaters, by the way, should note that
the path leading eastward from the northern end of the
Three Maidens bridge is your best options for unobstructed
cycling or skating.
kaunas by foot 15
Oddities
In case you’ve heard that Kaunas is a bit quirky, and you
want to get straight to the wacky bits without reading the
whole book, here’s a quick list of Kaunas oddities:
One – blind faith
You can visit the crypts beneath Soboras (more formally
known as St. Michael the Archangel church), but you can’t
actually see them. The rooms beneath the church have
been turned into a sort of fumbling adventure, dubiously
called the Museum for the Blind. See page 35. You can
also read more about Soboras on page 32.
Three – Devil may care
In case you would care to wander around looking at ef-
figies of the devil, don’t miss the unquestionably bizarre
Devil’s Museum. As far as we know it’s the only museum
devoted to the devil in the world. Or this world, anyway.
See page 35.
Five – Animal wrongs
The Kaunas Zoo is a throwback to times before anyone
believed that animals had rights, so it’s a bit of a grim
reminder of wrongs. They’re trying very hard to rectify
things and your entry fee may go some way to fixing
things up. See page 38. Slightly less sad, and possibly
more interesting in a creepy kind of way, is the Tadas
Ivanauskas Zoological Museum, where all manner of
former life have been stuffed or pickled for your gawping
pleasure. See page 35.
Me too
I’m stuffed
They’re stuffed Valdonė Bručienė
Seven – funny funiculars
Kaunas has two odd little funiculars, both of which will
drag you up to good vantage points from which you
can view the city. One leads up to the Church of the
Resurrection (see page 34) while the other affords a
great view of Old Town.
Nine - time travel
Rumšiškės, the park presenting a living snap-shot of
traditional village life, is about as close to anyone has got
to creating an operational time machine. See page 50.
Eleven
The Three Stooges’ mum was from Kaunas. So was
philosopher Emmanuel Levinas. So you can walk around
pondering Totality and Infinity and saying things like “I
resemble that remark” and “nyck nyck nyck”.
May 2007 - May 2008
16 Where to stay
Though Lithuania’s second city has fewer hotels than
in the rivalling capital of Vilnius, there is no shortage of
reasonably priced and well-situated hotels to be found.
While newer buildings are few and far between, Kaunas
is a city undergoing much expansion, and its hotels are
growing along with it.
Upmarket
Best Western Santaka C-3, Gruodžio 21, tel. 30 27
02, fax 30 27 00, office@santaka.lt, www.santaka.lt.
What looks like a warehouse on the outside is actually a
labyrinth of luxury, and a wonderful place for the well bred
(or at least well off) to rest their weary heads. All the rooms
have a very humble, welcoming feel and yet lay on the
luxury with lashings. Expect timber, leather, stylish furniture
and gold coloured bed spreads. One room has a nice little
alcove that overlooks St. Gertrude’s church - perfect for
pious pondering before splashing into the spa. Even if you
opt for a more basic room, you can enjoy the very cosy
fireside sitting room downstairs. Of course, there are also
the facilities and services one would expect for a high quality
hotel, such as satellaite tv, minibars, conference facilities,
a top-notch restaurant, and secure parking. Q92 rooms
(11 singles 360Lt, 80 doubles 480Lt, 1 apartment 880Lt).
PTJHAR6LGKDXCW hhhh
Star spangled banter
This guide uses the star system as defined by the Lithuanian
Department of Tourism, in which stars are awarded for
amenities offered, and don’t necessarily reflect the quality of
those amenities or the standard of service provided.
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Where to stay 17
Daniela E-3, Mickevičiaus 28, tel. 32 15 05, fax 32 in it. The rooms themselves are all individually decorated
16 32, daniela@danielahotel.lt, www.danielahotel. Symbol key to an unsubtly high standard that will make happy even
lt. Dress up like Barbarella (anti-gravity breasts optional) those who have discovered oil and Lithuania (in that order).
or someone from Lost In Space (bubble-headed booby P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted The modern sparkling sauna might also help. Located
optional) and launch yourself into a time warp of bulbous O Casino H Conference facilities in a quiet area near a park, the hotel is a 15-minute
pink cushions, plush puce carpets and stratospheric arched walk to the centre, but you’ll want a taxi or your own
beams. Or, be a bit Captain Sensible and stick to the smart T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled personal security sphinx to bring you home at night.
‘comfort class’ rooms with more contemporary and elegantly F Fitness centre L Guarded parking Q 1 2 r o o m s ( 4 s u i t e s 3 8 0 - 4 6 0 Lt , 1 a p a r t -
restrained decoration. Either way, you’ll find fun aplenty ment 480 - 540Lt, 7 singles/doubles 280 - 320Lt).
and lashings of comfort and luxury. It’s bright, breezy and R LAN connection G Non-smoking rooms PHARLGKDXCW hhhh
tucked away in a very convenient location. Q75 rooms (37 K Restaurant J Central location
standart rooms 290 - 360Lt, 23 comfort rooms 390Lt, 10
superior rooms 460Lt, 2 deluxe rooms 450 - 520Lt, 4 apart- D Sauna C Swimming pool Mid-range
ments 550 - 1,120Lt). PTJHARULGKXW I Fireplace W Wireless Internet access Alanta J-2, Alantos 33, tel. 73 11 42, fax 73 38 71,
hhhh hotel@alanta.lt, www.alanta.lt. As cheap as it is ugly.
X Smoking section But comfortable. If you don’t mind accidents in aesthetics,
Daugirdas A-3, T. Daugirdo 4, tel. 30 15 61, fax chintzy furniture and a feeling like you’re staying in an old
30 15 62, hotel@daugirdas.lt, www.daugirdas.lt. A persons’ home, you can bunk up here and save your money
spanking new hotel nestled in Old Town and offering an on a hill, it has a pleasant outlook and feeling of light and for something more fun. It’s a couple of kilometres out of the
ingenious blend of historic charm and mod cons. Rooms are space. There are heated bathroom floors, vast balconies centre, but just 500m away from the main transport route
nifty-neat with minibar, internet (WiFi or LAN), air condition- on some rooms, and one even has a telescope. There’s with plenty of buses. Q6 rooms (1 single 180Lt, 4 doubles
ing, televisions and a power outlet that doesn’t switch off also a conference room and a charming library room for 180Lt, 1 suite 220Lt). ALGKW hhh
when you leave so you can charge your gizmos. There’s a private functions. There’s no thunder, but the rooms have
somewhat old-fashioned dark wood and ochre theme but soundproof doors just in case. Q30 rooms (12 singles Babilonas C-1, Raseinių 25, tel. 20 25 45, fax 20 91
with big windows - floor-to-ceiling in some rooms - there is 288 - 320Lt, 10 doubles 360 - 400Lt, 2 suites 400 - 480Lt, 56, babilonas@hotel.lt, www.babilonas.lt. It’s only a
plenty of light. Bathrooms are modern and spacious with 6 junior suites 380 - 420Lt). PTJHARLGKXW kilometre or so out of town but it’s awkward to get to. The
heated floors. A lovely atrium and a superb rooftop terrace hhhh de luxe rooms are spacious and one offers a good view of
are the icing on the cake. Q 48 rooms (13 singles the town. Like so many hotels in Kaunas, they’ve tried to do
€104, 24 doubles €128, 10 delu xe rooms €142, 1 Sf inksas K-3, Aukštaičių 55/Kudirkos 19a, tel. nice things with the decoration, but ended up with a mess.
Gothic room €174). PTJHAR6ULGKXW 30 19 82, fax 30 19 83, hotelsfinx@takas.lt, www. This might be okay for business travellers with a taxi budget,
hhhh sfinksas.lt. Kaunas has all sorts of pleasing and quirky but otherwise there’s not much to make this oddly located
treasures tucked away in unexpected places, and this hotel worthwhile. Q10 rooms (1 single 200Lt, 4 doubles 240
Hermis Savanorių 404, tel. 49 03 00, fax 49 03 hotel is one of them. It’s notable for having a staircase that - 280Lt, 3 suites 320 - 390Lt, 2 apartments 400 - 520Lt).
01, info@hermishotel.lt, w w w.hermishotel.lt. The makes going to your room almost as rewarding as being PTJHAULGKW hhh
outskirts location (just off the main road to/from Vilnius)
might make you think this place is only suited for a hermit,
but step inside and you’ll be delighted to find a thor-
oughly modern hotel with a subtly colourful and contem-
porary style. Somehow, the place feels lively and friendly.
There’s even a 15m pool, spa and gym to keep you buzzing.
Really quite a delightful find, although not worth considering
unless you have a car. Q13 rooms (1 single 290Lt, 9 doubles
290 - 390Lt, 2 suites 430 - 500Lt, 1 apartment 500 - 600Lt).
PTHARFLKDCW hhhh
Kaunas D-2, Laisvės 79, tel. 75 08 50, fax 75 08 51,
kaunas@kaunashotel.lt, www.kaunashotel.lt. If you can
get a room with a balcony - and there are a few of them - you
can enjoy not only the slick and modern comforts of smartly
designed rooms, but a people watching position above the
world’s longest catwalk. The standard rooms are compact but
light and airy, while the apartments and suites are specially
designed to… well, make you feel special. All the rooms have
all the mod cons you would expect from a four-star hotel,
and there’s also a sauna, a small gym and conference facili-
ties - none of which you will use because you’ll be too busy
enjoying the view from the balcony. Q85 rooms (1 triple
600Lt, 4 suites 500 - 600Lt, 33 standard singles/doubles
340 - 420Lt, 43 deluxe rooms 420 - 500Lt, 2 connecting
rooms 800Lt). PTJHARUFLGKDXCW
hhhh
Perkūno Namai K-4, Perkūno 61, tel. 32 02 30, fax
32 36 78, hotel@perkuno-namai.lt, www.perkuno-
namai.lt. The curiously named ‘thunder home’ has been
a family run affair since it opened as the first private hotel
in Kaunas - but don’t think that means it’s some overgrown
cottage. The combination of homely comforts, the pride
of the owners, and appointments and service on par with
global hotel chains make this an excellent choice. Located
May 2007 - May 2008
18 Where to stay Where to stay 19

lite television and internet. On your way to the rooms, take
note of the walls covered in art throughout the corridors. We
should note that it is worth visiting different floors to com-
pare the varying artistic styles. There is also a restaurant
and makeshift billiards hall for those that get a craving for
some eight ball at eight am. Q29 rooms (28 doubles 220
- 300Lt, 1 suite 300 - 400Lt). JHAR6ULGKX
hhh
Budget
Apple Economy Hotel A-2, Valančiaus 19, tel./fax
32 14 04, info@applehotel.lt, w w w.applehotel.lt.
More bland shoe box than charming apple crate. More
Spartan than Granny Smith. The rooms here are simple,
clean and tidy if a little charmless and austere. There is
almost a hostel feel to the place, with linoleum floors and
bare basics throughout. Still, it is perfectly adequate and
seems to be staffed by refreshingly happy smiley young-
sters, which make a stay rather pleasant. Most importantly,
and like any fresh apple, it is simply good, cheap and con-
venient. Q 14 rooms (€40 - 66). TJHARLG
hh
better English than many classy hotel receptionists, and a
quiet location. Among other little perks, these nice people
will come and pick you up when you arrive in town if you ask
them nicely. Q3 rooms (2 singles €30 - 40, 1 double €40
- 50, 1 suite €64). RLG
Namų Viešbutis K-1, Gaižiūnų 80, tel. 33 74 44, fax
33 74 45, namu@hotel.lt, www.home.hotel.lt. Friendly,
very high standard B&B set in a tough-to-find neighbourhood.
Once you find the street, look for the mint green building.
Edmundas and Giedrė are your hosts and they take very good
care of you. If available, try to land their apartment with direct
access from the garage. Far from the centre, but still a very
nice place. Q4 rooms (1 single 120Lt, 2 doubles 180Lt, 1
apartment 240Lt). TAR6LGX
Solo B&B L-4, Dysnos 10, tel. +370 687 544 43/+370
615 578 69, info@solohotel.lt, www.solohotel.lt. Mini
apartments with kitchenettes, simple but comfortable
furnishings, free internet, cable television, DVD player and
lovely little private garden. A quiet and out of the way op-
tion - it’s a half-hour stroll to the centre. Q 2 doubles 120
- 170Lt. TRLG

Metropolis D-2, Daukanto 21, tel. 20 80 81/20

Kunigaikščių Menė B-2, Daukšos 28, tel. 32 08 00, fax
32 08 72, mene@takas.lt, www.hotelmene.lt. They keep
it pretty simple here but it’s spot-on if you want good value in
one of the loveliest streets of Old Town. Expect wooden floors,
simple yet comfortable furnishings and modern bathrooms.
Rooms look south over a quiet courtyard. So you can keep
the windows closed to let the sun warm your room, or open
them to catch a cool breeze without too much street noise.
Simply but very comfortable. Q8 rooms (1 single 180Lt, 6
doubles 250Lt, 1 suite 350Lt). PJHALGKXW
hhh
Nakties Magija L-3, Skroblų 3, tel. 79 79 23, fax 79
58 32, magija@naktiesmagija-hotel.lt, www.nakties-
magija-hotel.lt. Dated cringe-worthy furniture in an otherwise
rather nice house diagonally opposite the zoo. We didn’t
stick around to discover whether you will be kept awake by
screeching monkeys but if you close your eyes, or wish to
re-enact a scene from a corny 70s-era adult video, you’ll be
very comfortable in the spacious and well equipped rooms.
It’s a 20-minute walk through a nice oak park to get to the
centre of town, but we wouldn’t advise coming back that way
at night. Q10 rooms (4 singles 220Lt, 5 doubles 280Lt, 1
suite 400Lt). PHALGK hhh
Žaliakalnio Viešbutis D-2, Žemaičių 31/Savanorių 66,
tel. 32 14 12, fax 73 37 69, zaliakalnis@greenhillhotel.
lt, www.greenhillhotel.lt. A large affair, with excellent
views as it sits high atop one of the city’s greenest hills,
located adjacent to the impressive Church of the Resur-
rection and above the now operational funicular. The many
modern conveniences offered in the hotel include a large
conference facility and plenty of space within the hotels
walls to accommodate attendees. The rooms are spacious
and light and come with such nice extras as minibar, satel-
59 92, fax 20 62 69, sales@greenhillhotel.lt, www.
greenhillhotel.lt. This is where Uncle Fester and other
grismal weirdos used to like to stay. But now they’ve reno-
vated so many of the rooms that finding good old fashioned
Soviet-style grime is a bit of an ask. Not impossible, just
tricky - there’s still one or two bathrooms with black tiles or
green fur on the walls. Now, however, you’re much more
likely to end up with a nice sparkly white bathroom and
a normal looking bed that won’t tr y to swallow you.
What fun is that? Still, it’s a bargain, it’s in a great location,
and the grand staircase continues to offer spooky amuse-
ment. Q85 rooms (4 singles 90Lt, 70 doubles 120Lt, 1 triple
165Lt, 3 quads 220Lt, 7 suites 172Lt). TJA6GKX
hh
Bed & Breakfast
Arijaus Namai B-2, M. Daukšos 24, tel. 32 16 12/+370
685 788 83, arijushouse@uab.info, www.arijushouse.
uab.info. You’d be hard pressed to find a better location at
a better price. Or a bigger hotchpotch of furniture and jumble
sale accessories. Wagon wheel chandelier? Check. Random
scattering of doilies? Check. Cable television, internet and
secure parking? Yes, yes yes. Mildly cooky, but very central,
comfortable and affordable. Q (3 apartments 120 - 280Lt.)
TJHR6LGX
Litinterp F-3, Gedimino 28-7, tel. 22 87 18/+370 699
146 90, fax 42 51 20, kaunas@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.
lt. The growing Litinterp chain now have a few apartments
in Kaunas and a little black book containing details of over
20 apartments across the city. They can always help you to
find somewhere to stay at a reasonable price, and also offer
friendly and helpful service. In addition to accommodation,
they offer translation services, car rentals and nice smiles.
Q9 rooms (2 singles 80 - 120Lt, 4 doubles 140 - 160Lt,
3 family suites 160 - 210Lt). Apartments 180 - 240 Lt.
TJAG
Mažylis K-5, Dysnos 7, tel. 74 38 15, motel@one.lt,
www.kaunas-motel.com. A cool, family-run house not too
far from the city centre, featuring a choice of accommodations
from completely self-contained to two rooms with shared
bathrooms. Nothing too fancy here, but that’s not the point.
What you do get is cleanliness, friendly hosts who speak
Guesthouses
Kaunas Archdiocese Guest House B-2, Rotušės
21, tel. 32 25 97/+370 687 945 24, fax 32 00 90,
sveciunamai@kn.lcn.lt, http://kaunas.lcn.lt/sveci-
unamai. Well, isn’t this lovely? You get a quaint little room
with a bed and a chair that could easily set the scene for a
painting called, say, Room With Bed and Chair. It’s got a
religious simplicity to it which is somehow gloriously humble.
But wait! There’s more! You also get somewhere to wash
your bits, and an internet. Some rooms even have balconies
with heavenly views. Seems like this place is a godsend.
So what’s the catch? Well, they might frown upon i t
if you tr y to smug gle booze or a knickerless blonde
‘comfort consultant’ into your room, but otherwise this
is a great place to stay. Recommended from on high.
Q 21 rooms (2 singles 50Lt, 6 doubles 80 - 120Lt, 5
triples 110 - 140Lt, 3 quads 130Lt, 5 suites 160Lt).
TJRULG
Nemunas Tour Gėlių 50, Ringaudai, tel. 56 37
66/+370 614 203 39, info@nemunastour.com, www.
nemunastour.com. It is not important that this place is
a little way out of the centre because by all accounts it
is one of the best guesthouses in the universe. A large
green house, complete with six bright rooms, an army of
communal facilities from washing machine to sauna, and a
charming husband and wife running the whole show. If you
want to eat during your stay, the emphasis is on the healthy,
and if that isn’t enough they can also organise tours around
Lithuania, horse riding, sky diving and a lot lot more. Recom-
mended. Q (6 doubles 100 - 190Lt). TR6LGD
Motels
Sandija Jonavos 45, tel. 33 24 87, fax 36 33 92,
hotel@sandija.lt, www.sandija.lt. Little more than a
pleasant and efficient motel proximate to the highway, it is
a fair bargain for the price. In general, the rooms are dark
and more or less what you might expect, but each comes
with a wine-opener, a luxury not often found amongst some
of the best hotels in the country. Friendly and helpful desk
attendants greet you and the hotel has a small restaurant
that serves Lithuanian, German and French dishes. Q17
rooms (13 singles 150Lt, 12 doubles 200 - 260Lt, 2 suites
340Lt). THALGKX hh
Supermanas was here
Seaside (sort of)
Okay, so Kaunas is landlocked, but thanks to a whopping
great hydro-electric dam on the Nemunas, a body of
water large enough to be called a sea has formed. It’s
a favourite spot for summer fun, and it can also be your
temporary home during your stay in Kaunas.
Kaunas Žalgiris Yachtclub Gimbutienės 35, tel.
37 04 22, fax 37 04 15, info@jachtklubas.lt, www.
jachtklubas.lt. A rather peculiar looking place more
than made up for by its location on the bank of the
Kaunas Lagoon, the fabulous bugdet price tag, and the
other things that are on offer, from camping, to boating,
to eating,to doing nothing at all. A fabulous throwback to
years gone by, check the website for more information,
including how on earth to find the place. Q 30 rooms
(50 - 200Lt). ARFGKDXC
Romo Uostas Kalantos 199, tel. 45 84 01/+370
687 62136, info@romouostas.lt, www.romouostas.
lt. It’s a bit like a stylish crisply ironed shirt adorned
with a tie made from 1970’s wallpaper - very smart
and businesslike, but let down by splashes of revolting
furniture. Still, it’s so close to the water that you’ll wish
you’d packed your wetsuit, and even if you don’t take a
dip in the so-called sea, you can enjoy a very pleasant
and professional set-up, including a sauna and swimming
pool. Oh - and a conference centre. The staff can also
organise all manner of water activities. Q11 rooms
(8 singles 100Lt, 2 suites 150Lt, 1 apartment 250Lt).
HALGKDXC
Book hotels online
www.inyourpocket.com

Kaunas In Your Pocket May 2007 - May 2008

20 Where to stay
Apartment rental
Juratės Apartamentai Tel. +370 651 06 50, fax 32
30 73, juratebi@yahoo.com, http://juratesapartamen-
tai.home.lt. One rather swish apartments and one ‘other’
apartment slap-bang in the middle of the action. Rather
good value. Check the website for pictures. Q 150 Lt/night.
J spit noise as our meal was prepared. Nothing could taste good
Kaunas Apartments A-2, Laisvės 50-4, tel. +370 687
012 33, info@kaunas-apartments.lt, www.kaunas-apart-
ments.lt. The process could not be any simpler. Go to their
website, check out what is available and book it for the short
term, or the long term. Each flat is detailed, mapped out, pho-
tographed and priced to rent. Even if you don’t find something
online, just give them a call or an email and they will come
up with just what you’re after. The variety of modern apart-
ments offers something suitable for just about every budget.
Recommended. Q (15 apartments 80 - 250Lt/night).
J want to enjoy Kaunas strangeness and great food at the same
Private Apartments D-3, Maironio 13-2, tel./fax 20 86
01, info@emsalonas.lt, www.emsalonas.lt. Off the main
avenue, the private apartments at Private Apartments have
everything you need to dig in and stay for a long time. Expect a
kitchen, a dining nook and bedroom - all with modern fixtures
in a residential apartment building. Q 150 - 180Lt/night.
Discounts for longer stays. J
 The Kaunas telephone code is +370 37
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Kaunas for kids
Akropolis E-4, Karaliaus Mindaugo 49, www.
akropolis.lt. Little kids can go bonkers in a huge
supervised play area. There is the obligatory ball pit as
well as all manner of other colourful plastic diversions.
B i g ge r k i d s m i g h t e n j o y i c e - s k a t i n g, a r c a d e
ga m e s o r j u s t ex p l o r i n g t h e s h o p p i n g m a u l .
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA
Asiliuko Sapnas D-2, Laisvės 87a, tel. 22 00 63.
Tucked away in a cute courtyard next to the puppet
theatre, this is a mini-sized restaurant for mini-sized
people. With bright decorations and a large list of
fun things to do, the ‘Little Donkey’ is a very popular
venue for children’s parties. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
G slow at times. As it is essentially a vaulted red-brick cellar
Puppet Theatre (Lėlių Teatras) D-2, Laisvės
87a, tel. 22 00 63/22 16 91. A local institution,
only slightly creepy, and great for kids who wish to
take their grandparents out.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
BG
Zoo L-3, Radvilėnų 21, tel. 33 25 40, www.zooso-
das.lt. With somewhere in the region of 250 different
species to point at (and wonder why they have to be kept
behind bars) the little ones will surely love this place.
Ideal for rampaging monkeys.Q Open 10:00 - 19:00.
Tickets: 4-7Lt.
Old Town view from across Aleksoto Tiltas (H-4)
No one is going to call Kaunas the cuisine capital of Lithu-
ania, but things have been steadily improving of late, and
now at least the city offers a full range of options from the
cheap and chewy to lap-of-luxury fine dining. One thing to
keep in mind is that things are a bit spread out in Kaunas,
and there are some real gems located a short distance
from the centre of town. Don’t let that put you off. Kaunas
is hardly expensive, so a taxi won’t break the bank.
Beer halls
Avilys B-3, Vilniaus 34, tel. 20 34 76/20 75 52, fax
22 51 37, avilys@mail.lt, www.avilys.lt. It’s honey beer
heaven. The big gleaming vats of toil and trouble produce
a rather fine alcoholic bee-spew, which is then used as a
key ingredient in some of the meals. Lovely. People swarm
in but the staff are hardly busy-bees, so service can be
crammed with dark wooden furniture, it is also despa-
rately gloomy. A great place if your date has spots or is
an albino. Menu highlights: ‘Sex Chooter’, ‘Beer Soup’ and
‘Champignons pickled in beer and boney sauce’. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
TJAGBS
Chinese
Didžioji Siena B-2, Kumelių 7, tel. 22 05 85, didziojisi-
ena.meniu.lt. It’s all very rich, red, and refined in here. Quite
tranquil. You’ll feel immediately relaxed as you peruse the
menu and notice a good range of favourites and traditional
Chinese dishes, although your taste buds might be getting
quite excited. Food is generally very good and certainly al-
ways flavoursome, although we have had chicken that was
a tad chewy on one occasion. Service is superb - indeed,
outstanding by Kaunas standards - and goes a long way to
make this place a sanctuary worth seeking out. QOpen
11:30 - 23:00. JAGSW
Fu Long E-3, Gedimino 30, tel. 20 84 92. In a bizarre
reversal of the natural order of things the staff here are more
pleasant than the food. Except, that is, for the unseen person
in the kitchen who made a phlegmy, throat-clearing, I’m-gonna-
after that. The atmosphere is pleasant but unpretentious,
the prices are not displeasing, but it’s all more ho-hum than
yum-yum. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JAGS
Ilgoji Upė B-3, Vilniaus 13a, tel. 22 60 71. It’s hidden in
a courtyard, it always looks like it’s closed and has a gener-
ally uninviting appearance. It’s even a bit dowdy inside and it
appears that the ceiling is sagging. Despite all that, however,
it’s worth a visit just for the food, which is reasonably priced
and very tasty. There are countless options in the menu and
those that we sampled were delicious. A good option if you
time. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JLGS
Fast Food
KFC E-4, Karaliaus Mindaugo 49 (Akropolis), tel.
21 44 56, www.fastfoods.lt. Quick! Grab a bucket!
It’s the first KFC in the country.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. JG
Pizza Hut E-4, Karaliaus Mindaugo 49 (Akropolis),
tel. 21 44 56, www.fastfoods.lt. The first in the Baltic
States. Maybe they came to show Lithuanians how to
make pizza? QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. JG
Restaurants 21
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
6 Animal friendly W Wireless Internet access
International
Amigos E-3, Mickevičiaus 22, tel. 26 10 00, info@
skoniotechnologijos.lt. An overrated dump. The sign out-
side proudly shows faded photos of the time they welcomed
the Dalai Lama and a bunch of monks. His Holiness probably
said, yes, it was all very nice. But we don’t have to be polite
so we can say it’s really just a half-sunken dumpy bar that
slops up mediocre cheap eats and smells like dodgy plumb-
ing. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00
- 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PTJAGBS
Antis A-3, Rotušės 1, tel. 32 43 48, antis@takas.lt.
Antis can mean ‘duck’, ‘gossip’ or ‘bedpan’. We’re not sure
which meaning is intended here, but you’d better duck as you
burrow down the steep, low-ceilinged stairway. Once inside
you’ll enjoy a space that somehow manages to be romantic
and cosy but also quite modern and a bit smooth and groovy.
Food is not quite gourmet, but fine for a light meal over a bit
of gossip. As for the bedpan, well, erm… the toilets here are
interesting. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. JAEGS
Combo G-3, Raudondvario 107 (but actually on the
bend in Brastos), tel. +370 614 400 29/20 94 19, fax
36 11 89, combo@combo.lt, www.combo.lt. Ignore the
abandoned space station on the first level, head upstairs and
join the happy crew in the sparkly glass observation deck.
Nestle into red velour anti-gravity seating, order a meal, and
enjoy the view of cracked concrete, dirt and tipsy fishermen
pulling old boots out of the river. Food is extremely good given
the quick-lunch vibe of the place. Bit of a shame that it’s in the
outer-reaches of Galaxy Kaunas, but trolley-transport vessels
5, 7 and 10 will get you there in a nano-jiffy. QOpen 11:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. PTALEGS
Čarlstonas D-3, Kęstučio 93, tel. 20 29 93, www.carl-
stonas.lt. Roll up here and enjoy a fine medieval-slash-renais-
sance regal romp without the nuisance of having to defend
the realm or deal with the hassles of endless beheadings. Or
historical accuracy. Just plonk your derrière on a thronette,
order the ever-obliging staff about, and indulge in a feast of
‘mollusc slumgullion’, fowl, deer, or a piece of a cow. Both the
meals and the décor are presented with the utmost respect
for taste, and it’s no surprise that this is a popular choice
for treat-the-staff parties and romantic interludes. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. TJAGS
Daniela E-3, Mickevičiaus 28, tel. 32 15 05, www.dan-
ielahotel.lt. Not as posh as it appears, but not as expensive
either. There’s a menu crammed with creative concoctions
and that alone makes a visit worthwhile. We passed up the
lava stone-grill option to go for something involving bananas
wrapped in leek and chicken. While it could have been a bit
more skilfully prepared—the chook was a bit tough—it did
offer a lovely combination of flavours. Less challenging meals
will probably be fine. The setting is sleek and comfortable,
the menu is marvellous, service is friendly. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. TJAULGS
May 2007 - May 2008
22 Restaurants
Europa C-3, Gruodžio 19, tel. 30 27 10/30 27 11, fax 30
27 00, www.santaka.lt. When you’re not interested in the
sort of random culinary adventure that this part of the world
seems to so often provide, just nestle into the smart brick
cellar, make a selection from the small but pleasing menu,
and rest assured that your meal will be simple, satisfying, well
prepared and close to perfect. There’s a nice glass atrium and
occasional classy jazz, but it’s the food that you will come back
for - a simple recipe well executed. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00,
Mon 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. PJALEGBSW
Geras Vyno Rūsys D-1, Laisvės 75/Maironio 24, tel.
20 72 33/+370 685 086 62, www.gerasvynorusys.lt.
It looks like a husband-and-wife operation with all the nice
personal touches and commitment to service and quality of
a good family-run business. Take your time making a selection
from the impressive menu, trust their wine recommenda-
tions, some of which are printed in the menu, and settle into
the cosy brick cellar for a very pleasant evening. Another
one of Kaunas’s hidden treasures. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
PTJAEGSW
Master Grill K-2, Savanorių 235, tel. 79 98 99, mas-
tergrill@gmail.com. Hot rocks! That’s exactly what you get
here if you’re brave enough to go for the stone grill option. Cut
and sizzle your own steak on your own super-hot stone. For
lovers of beef it can hardly get better - you can pop pieces
in your mouth while they’re still sizzling in their own juices.
There are also traditional cooked-in-the-kitchen dishes for
the less adventurous - but really, the stone grilling technique
is simply superb and it would be a shame not to try it. Not
only is it carnivore heaven, but the staff are friendly and help-
ful and it’s great value. No English menus when we visited,
but they promised they were on the way. It’s a shame it’s a
bit out of town, but we still highly recommend it. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
PTALGS
Miesto Sodas D-2, Laisvės 93, tel. 42 44 24, www.
miestosodas.lt. As bright, fresh and airy as a freshly
scrubbed Colgate yawn. It combines a modern menu restau-
rant with a salad bar sprouting with zippy things to do with
leaves. The perfect place to sit in a gleaming glass box and
watch the world go by, or just gaze across the green patch of
a park next door. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 24:00. PTJAUEGBSW
www.inyourpocket.com
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Papa Jazz K-3, Savanoriu 178, tel. 73 47 18, fax 40 68
41, www.papajazz.lt. Unmarked and completely hidden in a
glass box interior design centre. Press ‘2’ in the carpark lift to
find it. And then, after sampling mediocre overpriced meals,
wonder why you bothered. The attraction here is that it is
an entertainment venue as much as a restaurant, and while
it might be fun when a good band is playing, it’s simply not
worthwhile or worth the expense at other times. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. PAULEGW
Perkūno Namai K-4, Perkūno 61, tel. 32 02 30, fax 32
36 78, hotel@perkuno-namai.lt, www.perkuno-namai.
lt. It’s divergent dining, with a menu that leaps from frogs’
legs to ostriches, covering a few piscatorial pleasures and
a Moroccan chicken along the way. The décor is… erm, we
forget, but two walls were covered in pride-of-the-owner pics,
so it feels like you’re eating in a photo album. The food is
award-winningly good (hence the pride), coming up trumps
in terms of presentation, flavour and texture. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. PTAULEGB
Retro Bordo C-2/3, Vilniaus 39, tel. +370 600 217 71.
Oh - the temptations! Red caviar, prawn mass, or ‘boneless
trotter with horse radish’? Oh, but this is a steak house so
we just had to try the steak - not great, but not at all bad,
and very reasonably priced. There’s olde worlde knickknacks
scattered about such as books, Asian fans and little bottles
that may or may not contain a genie. Your cutlery is served
in a little sleeping bag, which is cute. But, it’s the steak that
matters and while it may not be ahead of the herd, it is
certainly great value and won’t disappoint. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. JAGS
Where not to eat
Restaurants 23
Senieji Rūsiai B-3, Vilniaus 34, tel. +370 601 025
25/20 28 06, rusiaisenieji@gmail.com, www.seniejiru-
siai.lt. If this place was in London or Paris you’d have to book
before you were born to get a table. Here in Kaunas, however,
you can just turn up and get a table either for a fast cheap
lunch or a fine dinner. At any time it’s outstanding, with an
airy feeling cellar, frescoes on some walls, quick and quality
service and real towels in the bathrooms. The food is also
very good and as such, this is one restaurant that it would
be a shame to miss. Wonderful. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PJAEGBSW
Sfinksas K-3, Aukštaičių 55/ Kudirkos 19a, tel. 30 19
84, www.sfinksas.lt. A lovely hotel restaurant focusing on
fine international cuisine, the menu features such delicious
treats as veal, salmon, oysters and the fabulous-sounding
Žuolynas Grass Snake, which is in fact beef. Lithuanian dishes
also available.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
PAULEGBW
Šimtas E-2, Putvinskio g. 53, tel. 20 72 47. Looks
like the place where flash rats, skivvied spivs and those
celebrating success in dodgy deals come to dangle their
gold chains and Dolche Banana man purses at each other.
There are options in the menu to please everyone, and food
and service are moderately good. Unfortunately, prices are
not high enough to keep the nouveau riche riff-raff away.
Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 25Lt.
PTJAULEGBSW
Italian
Bella Italia E-3, Daukanto 14, tel. 42 66 91, bellaitalia.
meniu.lt. This place is bright, fizzy, ditzy, studenty and very,
very orange. Of course, cheap and mediocre pizzas are the
main attraction for Lithuanians, but you might also like the
pasta and meat dishes. They’re simple, satisfying, reasonably apart from capsule hotels, big-eyed manga and vending
priced and delivered to the wrong table about four hours after machines offering schoolgirls’ unwashed panties. But is the
you ordered them because the staff are all too busy chatting food authentic? Well, most Kaunas residents wouldn’t have
to friends to actually bother with annoyances such as work, a clue, and so they can, and do, get away with anything here.
or serving customers. With such rude and brazen disregard If you wouldn’t know your sushi from your shoe, you’ll prob-
for duty, you may as well give your order to the bubble-eyed ably just think the meals are a bit small, but for more expert
goldfish. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. fish aficionados the disappointment will run a little deeper.
PTJAGBS QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. TJALGBS
Pas Paolo D-3, Daukanto 17, tel. 22 01 75. Tucked away Breakfast
but well worth burrowing into to see if you can get a seat.
(Probably not.) It has a fun atmosphere with booths scattered
about and a few tables in slightly odd locations. In addition to From 07:00
pizza, there is a small selection of pasta and meat dishes. One Perkūno Namai K-4, Perkūno 61, tel. 32 02 30.
of the best options for cheap eats at this end of town. QOpen Sausages, eggs, omelettes and deserts. They also
09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TJAGS boast banana bread. Q Served until 10:30, Sat, Sun
until 11:00. AG
Portofino Savanorių 404, tel. 49 03 02, fax 49 03 01,
www.portofino.lt. It may be overflowing with rococo ritz Presto D-2, Laisvės 90, tel. 22 10 87, www.
and chintzy glitz, but they have a very simple and honest ap- presto.lt.Lots of tea and coffee, a few pancakes and
proach to the whole business of dining. The best ingredients omelettes, and bad service. Q Served until 11:00.
well prepared with a touch of flair, and presented at prices PJAGBW
that are as affordable as possible without compromising the
quality. The same sensible approach is evident in the wine list. From 08:00
Sounds like a good recipe? Well, the only ingredient missing Amigos E-3, Mickevičiaus 22, tel. 26 10 00,
is a convenient location - it’s about a 10Lt taxi ride out of the info@skoniotechnologijos.lt. A small, yet more than
centre, but worth the journey. It’s cheaper than going to Italy. adequate breakfast menu. Q Served until 11:00, Sat,
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAUILEGSW Sun 11:00 - 13:00. TJAG
Kavos Baras B-3, Vilniaus 74, tel. 32 23 41/20
Japanese 18 15. From snacks to an almost-full breakfast, and all
Yakata A-2, Valančiaus 14, tel. 20 45 12. Ahoy there! in a very pleasant atmosphere. Q Served until 12:00.
Shiver me chopsticks! There’s bamboo and boat bits aplenty, PJLGB
and they’ve squeezed in all manner of Japanese clichés - well,
May 2007 - May 2008
24 Restaurants
Lithuanian
55° D-2, Laisvės 79, tel. 75 08 70, www.kaunashotel.
lt. Lithuanian places can feel a bit basic and barn-like, but
downstairs here you’ll find all the country charm without
the rough edges. In fact, it’s really quite smart. There are
even a couple of clever little romantic dining nooks hidden
behind curtains. Upstairs the scene couldn’t be more differ-
ent with bright, light and modern decoration. The balance
of rustic and refined is also present in the menu. You can
scoff hunks of pigs’ brains if you want, or nibble on dainty
salads or delicate fish dishes - all are expertly prepared.
They also specialise in moonshine. Whether you prefer
things grainy or glossy, you’ll be quite happy here, espe-
cially when you notice that it’s actually rather good value.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
PJAULGBSW
Bajorkiemis Vilnius-Kaunas highway, tel. 44 07 70,
fax 37 53 42, www.berneliuuzeiga.lt. A rambling great
village of huts and a big barn style place that has become
something of a traditional stop on the route between Kaunas
and Vilnius. (It’s 12km out of Kaunas on the A1.) There are
distractions for the kiddies and tourists alike, including some
barn animals, playthings and souvenir-slash-snack shops.
In summer, outdoor seating mushrooms all over the place.
Food is fair but the jolly almost festival-like atmosphere
is worth dropping in on even if you’re not hungry. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00.
PTAULGBS
Bernelių Užeiga A-2, Valančiaus 9, tel. 20 09 13, www.
berneliuuzeiga.lt. The three blokes pictured on the menu
look like the sort of good old fashioned lads who spend their
days chopping wood, scrumping spuds, ploughing maidens
and nailing the feet of old women to the kitchen floor to ensure
an endless supply hearty tucker. No mucking around with
village cliché nonsense here - just large quantities of decent
Lithuanian food that will leave you slumping and groaning
with delight until you’re ready for your next bout of barnyard
boisterousness or laddish lechery. Also at K. Donelaičio 11,
tel. 20 88 02. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00.
PTJAIEGBS
Čili Kaimas Islandijos 32 (Mega), tel. 23 90 55, info@
cili.lt, www.cili.lt. It’s a bit quirky, top quality, not too costly,
quintessentially Lithuanian and unfortunately stuck in a big
boring shopping bland on the outskirts of town. Shame, really.
The timber-trimmed village-themed chain churns out the calo-
ries and fun with aplomb, and it would be simply terrific if they
could find a more central location. As it is, all we can say is that
it’s a great place to tuck in should you find yourself stuck in the
Mega shopping centre. Also at Karaliaus Mindaugo (Akropolis)
but the restaurant there is all bleached wood and doesn’t
have a nice village feeling at all. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
PTALGSW
Delano K-2, Savanorių 255, tel. 30 74 42, delano.
kaunas@delano.lt, www.delano.lt. You can’t possibly
miss the giant windmill aside the Hyper Maxima. Inside you
get the best of the buffet. It’s a Latvian-born chain that has
been pleasantly serving peasant food in Lithuania for a few
years. Another good place to bring the kids. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00. TAULGBS
Forto Dvaras M-4, Baršausko 66a (Molas), tel. 76 51
01, molas@fortodvaras.lt, www.fortas.eu. Of the fast-
paced, cheap and cheerful Lithuanian restaurant chains,
this is probably the best. They offer more regional variations
of cepelinai than you could ever want to eat or be capable of
Kaunas In Your Pocket
eating. There’s also hearty meat-and-spuds meals, as well
some more authentically traditional Lithuanian meals. As it is
not centrally located, and unlike their location in Vilnius, this
Forto won’t be besieged by tourists. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. PALGS
Katpėdėlė D-2, Maironio 28, tel./fax 22 49 67, kat-
pedele-11@vici.lt, www.katpedele.lt. Simple village food
(potatoes, something that died in the barn, more potatoes, and
some grass and carrots and potatoes) churned out in a feed-em-
fast, formulaic franchise. There are better options for authenticity
and atmosphere, but for a quick fill with a Lithuanian leaning this
is hard to beat. The name, by the way, means something like
‘pussy’s foot’. Also at Savanorių 214a, tel. 31 30 04, katpedele-
3@vici.lt. Krėvės 57, tel. 73 06 40, katpedele-15@vici.lt. Vilkų
20, tel. 74 93 26. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat
10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. TJAGSW
Medžiotojų Užeiga A-3, Rotušės 10, tel. 32 09 56,
www.medziotojai.lt. The gamey gimmicks in the ‘Hunters
Tavern’ include horny handles on the doors, fury pelt plastered
walls, heads and antlers all over the place and even a stuffed
mongoose (or something) dangling in a cage above one of the
tables. It’s a mounted menagerie. The menu is crawling with
critters such as boar, elk and beaver, but you can also opt for
less adventurous fish or chicken if you wish - all beautifully
prepared and presented, but not hunter-hearty. If your date is
an animal rights type, you can still come here - just tell him or
her that it’s dolphin friendly. Maybe. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
PJAIGBSW
Metų Laikai E-2, Mickevičiaus 40b, tel. 22 32 53, laiko.
zaismas@kaunas.omnitel.net. It’s a hidey-hole where girly
adornments take the battered edge off the otherwise worn
out look of the place. It’s both gloomy and frilly inside - like
eating in Grandma’s underwear drawer - while in summer
there is seating in the courtyard so you can take a break from
people watching and look at parked cars and crumbling walls
instead. The Lithuanian food is practical and modern, not the
sort of traditional food that no one bothers to make at home
anymore. With hearty, sloppy, meaty dishes, it’s like visiting a
local at home - except that you won’t be force fed by their mum
or have to look at 1001 family photos. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. JALGBS
Šaulys F-2, Nepriklausomybės 5, tel. 42 26 55. There’s a
half-hearted hunters’ theme in here, with antler-shaped coat
stands and a few pelts crawling up the walls, but it’s actually
all a bit nondescript and bland. Food isn’t terribly cheap by
local standards, and while meals are big they will only please
those for whom size matters more than taste or texture. Or
hunting dogs. Not great.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. TJAIGBSW
Tado Blindos Smuklė D-3, Kęstučio 93, tel. 20 29
93, info@carlstonas.lt. A dark wooden shack with chunky
furniture and embroidered cotton tablecloths that make it look
like a team of sun-shy little old ladies have been very busy.
(Peek under the tablecloths and you can find some strange
designs on some of the tables themselves.) It’s all very timber
and twee. There are plenty of meaty and traditional Lithuanian
dishes as well as some nice soups and stews - all homely,
hearty and good value. While both the atmosphere and the
food lack lightness, this place is roughly great.QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. PTJAGSW
Kaunas challenge: Can you find
a restaurant without a television?
Užeiga Prie Akmenų E-3, Laisvės 21, tel. 20 55 84.
This place is really nothing special, but it is in an excellent
location and you might be tempted to go there. Avoid it if
you’re wanting good food, but drop-by if you just want a beer
and some snacks. A waste of a good location.QOpen 10:00
- 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. TJIEGBS
Žalias Ratas E-2, Laisvės 36b, tel. 20 00 71. A charm-
ing and traditional little cottage plonked in a hideous car
park and surrounded by traditional concrete architectural
disasters. That doesn’t stop hordes of happy diners turning
up and enjoying Lithuanian meals on the veranda or in the
cosy interior. The food is top-notch and would even keep
the most patriotic granny grinning. Pretend the squealing
car alarms are gleefully singing birds and you can enjoy a
lovely village meal here. Head through the archway at Laisvės
36 to find it. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
JAILEGBS
Mediterranean
Pompėja E-2, Putvinskio 38, tel. 42 20 55, www.
pompeja.lt. Even if you don’t enjoy the lovely atrium in
summer you will enjoy the food at any time. The prices in
the menu may appear high but once you taste the dishes
and notice that they don’t skimp on size you’ll appreciate
that you’re getting fair value. In the evenings you can even
enjoy the entertainment, such as the ‘Pompeii giddy vortex
mind-blowing erotic dance’, whatever that is. A pleasant
and quite classy place, with just the right hint of the bizarre.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTJAIEGBSW
Middle Eastern
Ramzis II B-2, Daukšos 29, tel. 32 43 01, www.ramzis.
lt. A diamond in the rough. This small but impressive creation
is easily discovered by reading the Egyptian carvings on the
underpass wall. The collections of beads, jewels, tea sets
and hookah pipes, as well as the carvings on the bar give
the setting a hint of authenticity. We recommend ducking into
the more discreet back rooms for discretion or revelry. The
menu, while fairly typical seemed robust enough to satisfy.
Ladies of the harem, if you are looking to get a rise out of
your sheik, order the Viagra soup. Though it’s a bit pricey
at 10.40Lt, it promises to spice up your love life. If a real
Egyptian king were to dine here, he would most certainly have
the chef mummified for putting mayo on the hummus. Also
at Karaliaus Mindaugo 49 (Akropolis), tel. 21 44 11. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. PABJLGW
Pizza
Arena Piz za D-2/3, Laisvės 57, tel. 20 25 96,
arenapizza@gmail.com, www.arenapizza.lt. Another
place stafed by MTV morons who are too busy chattin’ ‘n’
textin’ and chillin’ to pay any attention to customers. There’s
a galaxy of pizzas, plenty of pasta and meat dishes, some
interesting salads and soups and even traditional Lithuanian
food. And it’s all awful, and awfully cheap. But none of that mat-
ters because you’re not going to get served until you’re dead
anyway. They do home delivery if you call 42 42 42. If you must
come to the restaurant itself, we suggest you call that number
and get them to deliver something to your table. Also at Savanorių
363. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PTJABUGSW
Čili Pica D-2, Laisvės 76, tel. 42 51 34, www.cili.lt.
The chain store that wheels out pizza with aplomb. Their
centrally located restaurant here in Kaunas is one of their best
- or at least it’s not as grotty as some of the more diabolical
Restaurants 25
Pancakes. Probably
dumps in the family. It’s lovely and bright, fast, fresh, clean and
fair value. Grab a window-side seat for people-watching per-
fection. There’s a new drive-through option at Ateities 50b for
those who like the idea of driving and dining. Also at Baršausko
66a, tel. 35 01 12. Ateities 50b, tel. 47 33 59, Savanorių
346, tel. 31 34 70. Islandijos 32 (Mega), tel. 37 44 34.
Karaliaus Mindaugo 49 (Akropolis). QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
PTJAULGBSW
Pizza Jazz D-2, Laisvės 68, tel. 20 43 35, www.pizza-
jazz.lt. Two separate entrances guide you into two different
pizza worlds. They finesse every pizza cliché in the book,
while offering a sordid variety of pizza pies. The second, more
elegant area is distinguishable by the Lavazza coffee branding
and is a uniquely designed medley of brick, floral wallpaper,
pinstriped tapestries and black and white photos. A few other
dishes are also available. The location at the Zoo Museum
offers huge glass windows and a great place to watch the
human traffic. Also at Laisvės 106 (Zoologijos muziejus), tel.
22 15 92. Šarkuvos 1a (Maxima), tel. 37 76 35. Taikos 141,
tel. 47 39 41. Gričiupio 9, tel. 40 00 09. Savanorių 349, tel.
31 34 70. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
11:30 - 23:00. PTJAUGBSW
Pizzeria Milano E-3, Mickevičiaus 19, tel. 20 63 82.
It’s completely hidden in a big imposing building, but when you
push open the tall, heavy door you’ll discover a cheap pizza
joint in what looks like the dining hall of the Kaunas Army
Officers’ Club. Bizarre - but great. The food is as good as the
situation is weird, and the service is military standard. All up,
a spiffing spot to feed the troops, or just sit alone and have
one of those ‘where am I’ moments. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:30. JAGS
Russian
Legenda Šiaurės 5a, tel. 40 84 56, www.restoranasle-
genda.lt. Gather your weapons (knife, fork, spoon, toothpick,
etc) and barge into this big wooden fortress to battle your
way through a deeply satisfying array of Russian dishes.
Start off with the traditional Russian soup, which is a meal
in itself, and just try to keep going as long as you can. You’ll
come away beaten, but very full and happy. A particularly
wonderful retreat in winter, but worthwhile at any time. It’s a
bit of an appetite-building hike to get there: take bus 43 from
the Kęstučio stop on Vytauto (F-3) and hop off at the 15th
stop, Šiaurinė. By car, head out on Savanorių, and turn left at
the last intersection before the A1 highway. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. TALEGBS
May 2007 - May 2008
28 CAFÉS
A café and a bar are often the same thing in Lithuania, so
if you’re looking for a place to take a break during the day
you should also check the bars listed in the Nightlife sec-
tion starting on the opposite page.
Arbatos Klubas (Tea Club) B-3, Vilniaus 41, tel. 22 41
91. The idea of a place dedicated to tea aficionados is great.
Why should bean grinders get all the fun? Unfortunately, this
place is a bit of a dump and won’t please aficionados of any-
thing. Sure, there’s tea available from around the world, but
the atmosphere is bland. Cheap and cheery, but nothing spe-
cial. The only notable thing about the place is that it’s a good
toilet option for wheelchair users. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Fri
08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. JAUGSW
Barracuda B-3, Vilniaus 14, tel. 20 55 35. A newer
style place conveniently located in Old Town and with a
very old-fashioned get-stuffed attitude. The service isn’t
bad - it’s just rude. (What do they think this is? France?)
Bring a sense of humour, and you can not only play ‘get the
troll to serve us’ games but also enjoy some surprisingly
good quality meals. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
PTJAGBSW
Dviese B-3, Vilniaus 8, tel. 20 36 38. While it doesn’t
look very inviting and often looks to be closed when it’s not,
it’s worth pushing through the unwelcoming door to discover
a modern and fresh café with a great range of cheap eats
and - refreshingly for Kaunas - enthusiastic, pleasant and
friendly service. During the week, they do decent lunches
for a pittance. It’s not going to be a culinary highlight, but it
could easily become a regular haunt if you’re staying more
than a day or two. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 24:00. PTJGB
Eleda B-3, Vilniaus 48, tel. 32 41 90. It’s an inside out
cottage, with what look like the exterior walls of someplace
in some village somewhere facing inwards and providing a
comfortable and cosy, albeit somewhat clichéd, environment.
Light snacks are available, as are some interesting herbal
teas. While it’s not worth going out of your way for, the location
makes it a pleasant place to drop by as you walk between
Old Town and Laisvės Aleja. Also at Studentų 16, tel. 43 84
03. Open 10:00-22:00, Fri 10:00-23:00, Sat 11:00-23:00,
Sun 11:00-21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 23:00. TJGBS
Jums D-2, Laisvės 61, tel. 20 37 05. It’s as cute and as
sweet as a puppy frolicking in icing sugar. This is the place
where people with something called ‘natural style’ come to
sit in big wicker egg cups. (The menu actually offers ‘baskets
with nuts’. Sounds more like a description of the clientele than
a dish on offer.) While there’s a fascinating range of interest-
ing culinary creations on offer, most will simply give in to the
sugar-hit temptation of the cakes and deserts. Notable for
milkshakes, ‘home’ made ice cream, decent tea and coffee,
and grass growing upside-down from the ceiling. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
TJAGBSW
Kavos Baras C-2, Vilniaus 74, tel. 32 23 41/20 18 15.
Simple meals, cakes, a few kinds of teas and about a zillion
bean-themed concoctions. The inside is rather stylish with
coffee-and-cream decor and exciting angles. They have also
thoughtfully provided little sit-alone spots by the windows
which are ideal for people with no friends. Or travel writers.
No English menu, but there are pictures of all the different
coffees that you can point at, and a staff consisting of spotty
young people who speak English probably goodly very almost.
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. PJLGBS
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Kavos Kerai C-3, Vilniaus 60. Zesty orange furniture
amid dark brown fittings create a nice atmosphere, but the
big attraction is the smell. The aroma of freshly ground cof-
fee sneaks out the door as people come and go and almost
physically hauls you inside. Also at Daukšos g. 35. Open
09:00-19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PJUGB
Kavos Klubas A-2, Valančiaus 19, tel. 22 96 69. The
best thing about this place is that they stay open quite late,
although we have noticed that most of the temptations listed
in the menu are simply not available in the evening. If you
turn up after dark you can enjoy little more than coffee and
frustration. There is a cosy little room at the back which is
ideal for those who wish to have an intimate chat or climb out
the window and leave without paying.QOpen 09:00 - 23:00,
Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. JAGBS
Konrado Užeiga E-3, Laisvės 49a, tel. 20 87 33. While
this place isn’t exactly hacked out of a forest of clichés, it’s still
a bit woody and rustic. There are touches of tackiness, but
mostly you just get good value food (almost up to the standard
of a proper restaurant) in a simple and pleasant environment.
There’s outdoor seating in summer, but no view. It’s a place
where locals love to come for a fast feed or a quick drink.
It attracts both rowdy lads and gossipy groups of little old
ladies, which is either a sign of universal appeal or something
strange and dodgey that we don’t understand. QOpen 10:00
- 22:00. Closed Sun. TJALGBS
Mažoji Svaja C-2/3, Linkuvos 58, tel. 36 37 55. The
‘little dream’ consists of a room full of jostling glass jars filled
with all manner of beans, dried spices, leaves and other things
for unimaginable infusions. Next to that is a neat little café
where people jostle for seats so they can indulge in any of
the cakes, bickies or buns that tempt from the glass display
cabinet. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JLGB
Presto D-2, Laisvės 90, tel. 22 10 87, www.presto.lt.
A not very good café with not very good service and not very
good food in a good location. Oodles of varieties of tea and
coffee, as well as simple snacks. The waitresses don’t seem
to have worked out that ‘Presto’ means quick. QOpen 07:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PJAGBSW
Retro Aveniu E-2, Laisvės 15, tel. 22 62 36. This place
provides a pleasant retreat and a nice tucked-away feeling
without being too far away from the main drag. The clever
retro photo album menu provides some interesting and in-
expensive meals, and the waitresses occasionally provide
amusement by tipping them into the laps of unsuspecting
diners.QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00
- 19:00. JAGBS
Seklyčia B-3, Vilniaus 7, tel. 44 11 23. A terrible little café
hiding inside a lovely building. (More often the reverse is true
in Kaunas.) Looks like someone has chucked all the pots and
paintings from a nice gallery space and replaced them with
crappy pine furniture. There’s a range of simple meat dishes
but, given the service with a frown, we didn’t bother trying
any of them. Little old ladies who come here bring their own
food in Tupperware and just order tea. We think that speaks
volumes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TJAGBS
Supremo Kavos Namai E-2, Daukanto 23, tel. +370
652 18788. A simple and modern affair with cakes, crossi-
ants and all manner of brews. There are also plenty of glossy
magazines so if you don’t get a seat by the window you can
look at the pictures. The view is much the same. QOpen
07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. G
Kaunas tends toward bigger clubs, swelling with students
but all bets are off in the summer when things shift out-
doors to the countless beer tents. Just remember - less
is more. Actually less costs more. Beer, the beverage
of choice round these parts, should almost always be
ordered in large portions. For unlike every other commod-
ity in this country, the cost is higher per yield when pouring
less. Kaunas nightlife is sometimes as charged as a
heavyweight-boxing match, and very often one breaks out.
Not every place is dangerous, but not every place is safe,
and drunken foreigners make an easy mark. Watch out for
overly friendly people, men walking in packs and all of your
belongings. The pubs and clubs can be a lot of fun, but
common sense is warranted here.
Bars
Avilys B-3, Vilniaus 34, tel. 20 34 76/20 75 52, fax 22
51 37, avilys@mail.lt, www.avilys.lt. Three dark cellar
rooms dedicated to the celebration of home-made beer, the
alus in question being some of the best in Lithuania. How
they’re brewed is described in English on the menus, so you’ll
know exactly what you’re getting for your money, and although
this isn`t the best place to come and eat, readers may like to
know that the Dalai Lama thought it game enough, and as
such was spotted here in the summer of 2001 tucking into
a large plate of chicken and rice. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JAGB
B.O. B-3, Muitinės 9-1, tel. 20 65 42, blueorange@one.
lt. The name is supposed to stand for Blue Orange, not for
armpit stink. But it could also mean ‘best option’ for a night
of drinking, chatting, playing chess with interesting scruffy
types, scratching your initials in the table when no one is
looking, meeting new people, drinking more, chatting more,
laughing, forgetting what day it isn’t or which table you started
at and when or what your phone number is or who you gave it
to or how to walk or punctuate or when was the last time you
had so much uncomplicated fun probably or what. QOpen
09:30 - 02:00, Fri 09:30 - 03:00, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun
15:00 - 02:00. JAEGW
Bumerangas B-3, Mutinės 9-6/Naugardo 6, tel. +370
621 391 95, baras@bumerangas.lt, www.bumerangas.
puslapiai.lt. They mean ‘boomerang’, of course, not some-
thing to do with an arboreal ape’s bottom. Despite the rectal
naming mishap, or perhaps because of it, the boomerang
doesn’t seem to have taken off. It’s about as populated as
the outback, and about as aboriginal as Dame Edna Everage.
There ain’t no blokes called Bruce, hardly any sheilas, and
no weird egg laying marsupials. (Although you might find a
lyrebird or a cockatoo.) Really just a local drinking hole to
which people seem to be not going back in a hurry. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. JG
Crazy House B-3, Vilniaus 16, tel. 22 11 82, uzeiga@
crazyhouse.lt, www.crazyhouse.lt. The name says it all
- it really is completely bonkers in here with ghost-train antics
such as clumsily rotating robots dressed up as ghouls who will
grope you with a rubber hand. Hydraulic high jinks include a
table that randomly moves up and down. It’s a bit concerning
if you’re sniffing your soup, but otherwise fine as the seats
are adjustable. There’s also a camouflage net which suddenly
drops over diners and has the amusing potential of making
people jump out of their skin. While you can eat while sitting
on a toilet, complete with occasional flush and comedy fart
noises, the nonsense doesn’t extend to the food, which is
simple, satisfying and good value. Not to be taken seriously,
and not to be missed. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 02:00. JAGBW
Nightlife 27
Excuse me, Sir, but your hair is on fire
Džam’pub D-2, Laisvės 59 - 5th floor, tel. +370 657 450
03, dzam_pub@yahoo.com. Promising jazz, rock, blues and
good views - both because it’s on the 5th floor with a balcony,
and because it hopes to attract students. It’s a mildly rough
and jumble kind of place but very worthwhile for easy-going
good times. A great venue if you come with a group. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00
- 23:00. PJUGB
Fortas (Whatever they call it this week) D-2,
Donelaičio 65, tel. 20 11 42. This place has changed
names and themes more often than some of its customers
change underwear. It’s been an Irish Pub, went through a
Latino and then a pirate phase, and last time we checked
was called ‘Big Bil’ with a motorcycle theme and a poster
suggesting that we ought to do something beginning with
‘f’ to the world. The only common element seems to be an
abundance of 44-gallon drums and the fact that the locals
know it simply as Fortas. Rough-and-tumble, charmless fun.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00
- 23:00. JA
Ketvirtoji Valdžia E-2, Putvinskio 48, tel. 42 25 77. A
billiards hall and bar, intended to celebrate the life and times
of Kaunas journalism. A bit dingy at times, but the beer price
is right and you get to meet some of the more eclectic people
in town. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JAGE
Medžiotojų Užeiga A-3, Rotušės 10, tel. 32 09 56,
www.medziotojai.lt. The animal skins dangling from the
walls do little to deter the after work beer guzzlers. At any
time of day, it is a good place for steak and ale and an even
better place to meet and hang out. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
PJAIGBW
Rambynas D-2, Laisvės 86, tel. 40 74 19. A bit kooky
and fun, with a mildly Soviet theme somehow shoved into an
otherwise modern interior. Most appealing, however, is the
food, which is successfully inventive. We had, for example,
something involving bananas and beer which was just ir-
resistibly yummy and a bargain for the price. Shame that
it took approximately forever to arrive, but it was worth the
wait. There is also a decent range of beer snacks and quaf-
fable goodies, making this a top spot to meet friends and
start off the evening.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00. AJG
May 2007 - May 2008
28 Nightlife
All Hours
Kebabai C-2, Vilniaus 45. Other than rummaging
about in bins, this is your only option for 24-hour food
in Kaunas. It is unmissable and conveniently located
within staggering distance of most of the central bars
and nightclubs. Even drunk people can find it. Clean,
well-lit, reliable and reported to sell edible food.
Q 24 hrs. JPTGB
Randevu A-2, Valančiaus 27, tel. +370 618 638 81/20
38 95, joana@randevu.lt, www.randevu.lt. A seedy café
decorated to look like the inside of a diseased lung. Not sur-
prisingly it enjoys most success at night when the little troll
in a waistcoat is run off its feet keeping cheap beer flowing.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 24:00. JAGB
Senamiesčio vyninė B-2/3, Daukšos 23, tel. 22 76 56,
elena@senamiesciovynine.lt, www.senamiesciovynine.
lt. This hidden treasure gleams with a richly and smartly
decorated interior (bright golden-yellow paint and warm, dark
wood fittings, at least) but doesn’t take itself too seriously
and has a lovely laid-back and welcoming atmosphere. It’s as
close as Kaunas comes to a wine bar as the well considered
wine list is splashed with options from around the globe. Food
is amazingly cheap, and if you can get the semi-circular couch
by the window you could easily settle in for a well-spent while.
There’s also hot wines, making this a perfect winter retreat.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. JAUEGBW
Skliautas A-3, Rotušės 26, tel. 20 68 43, info@skliau-
tas.com, www.skliautas.com. Inside this humble brick
vault you can find shabby wooden furniture (and locals), a pair
of birds in a cage, old pictures on the walls and … actually,
none of that matters. This is one of those places where the
jovial atmosphere makes it, with laughter and good times
being the main attraction. In summer, outdoor tables half
fill the otherwise quiet little alley. Meals are generally pretty
good, but really, this is a spot for fun times and drinks with
friends. (If you don’t have any friends, you might even make
some here.) QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat
10:00 - 01:00. JALEGBW
Sporto Baras J-1, Jonavos 260, tel. 76 50 00, info@
sportobaras.lt, www.sportobaras.lt. The name says it all,
although we should add that this is a bright and fizzy kind of
place. There’s lots of yellow and orange, and the place could
have been decorated by a failed sportshoe designer. Screens
dangle from everywhere, like in an airport. They serve simple
Chinese and Italian meals, including the obligatory pizza. They
also have VIP and child-minding areas (much the same thing in
Lithuania) and take group bookings - so if there’s a game you
insist on seeing, it might be worth the off-the-map nuisance of
getting there. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PALG
Bowling & Billiards
Straikas Draugystės 6a, tel. 40 90 00, info@straikas.
lt, www.straikas.lt. Both a bar and ball games (bowling and
billiards) are to be found here and it`s tough to decide on which
dominates. What is for sure is that it’s a good place to come
if in the area (find it slightly east of Draugystės Park). Serious
bowlers passing through may like to know that this is where
their fellow Lithuanian counterparts come to do their thing.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00
- 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PALGW
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Clubs
Amerika Pirtyje F-3, Vytauto 71, tel. 20 14 89/20 54
98, america@america.lt, www.america.lt. This place has
been around for donkey’s years, and a few of them turn up to
celebrate. Somehow it’s long in the tooth but still full of short
skirts and simple fun. There are two areas, one with techno
and one with pop music. Occasional live shows—people
taking their clothes off when we were there—punctuate
the earlier parts of some evenings. As it’s a bit dated and
shabby, this place is very dependant on the crowd that
turns up, and that tends to be unreliably good. Worth a try.
QOpen Mon, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 02:00,
Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun 20:00 - 02:00.
PJAULEGBW
Combo G-3, Raudondvario 107, tel. +370 614 400
29/20 94 19, combo@combo.lt, www.combo.lt. Not
even the gleaming new facilities, great layout and water views
can save this club from mediocrity. It’s just too awkward to get
to, stuck as it is in a riverside wasteland. Tends to attract an
older and more conservative crowd than the more centrally
located clubs. Everything is well thought-out and professional,
but there just isn’t much of a fun factor. Only worth coming to if
you have good local company and there is good entertainment
scheduled. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Sun 11:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. PALG
Europa C-3, Gruodžio 19, tel. 30 27 11/30 27 10, fax
30 27 00, www.santaka.lt. There’s actually not much of
a nightclub here - more just a restaurant with jazz, cabaret
style crooning and dancing from time to time. It’s all a bit like
a rehearsal for the retirement home lifestyle, but without
the nurse standing by. If you’re up for a gentle and refined
evening, and a mature change from the student crowds in
other evening venues, we suggest you pop in for dinner and
ask about the programme. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Mon
11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. PJALEGBW
Ex-it D-2, Maironio 19, tel. 20 28 13, info@exit.lt, www.
exit.lt. Modern, slick, trendy and, like most of their patrons,
fresh out of a growth spurt. They’ve more than doubled in
size in the past year, adding a big new main hall and a new
smoking room. The lighting and sound gear is bang up to
date and capable of dazzling you while vibrating your internal
organs into different arrangements. The smaller hip-hop room
has some funky furniture and fine opportunities to mingle and
yell at people who you can’t hear and probably aren’t saying
anything sensible anyway. (Tip: the smoking room is the
place to meet people.) The only downside is that the recent
expansion didn’t extend to the toilets, and this is now the
only place where gentlemen have to queue-up to take a leak
or ‘powder their nose’ in the toilets. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. PJAG
Latino Baras B-3, Vilniaus 22, tel. +370 685 281 17.
Simply sensational. There – the review’s done – can we
go back there now? What it lacks in space it makes up for
in warmth, intimacy and a magic ability to be magnetic to
Kaunas’ style-savvy smoothies (all both of them) and their
enthusiastic apprentices. Three separate areas bustle with
suave mingling while one hall is always lively with dancing.
There’s a good Latino-pop music policy and frequent short
dancing lessons and demonstrations. Gentlemen whose
underpants dictated that they must come to Kaunas will
want to know that this place swarms with some of the most
beautiful girls you’re likely to see. Really - this place is simply
sensational. Oh, we said that already... but really, it is. Go
there.QOpen Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. JG
Los Patrankos F-1, Savanorių 124, tel. 33 82 28, fax
33 82 31, info@lospatrankos.lt, www.lospatrankos.lt.
One of the big guns on the Kaunas nightclub scene. Literally.
Essentially it’s a modern themed galley style setup with a
rectangular dance floor flanked by various raised platforms
and places for sitting, drinking and gazing across the sea of
waving arms and writhing bodies. The music and entertain-
ment can vary, but the quality is consistently high without
being too niche-this or alternative-that. A no-brainer choice
for students and generally always popular and pulsating.
QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00, Sun 13:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. PJAUEOG
Metelica E-2/3, Laisvės 46a, tel. +370 655 099
88/22 53 08, metelica@ultragroup.lt, www.metelica.
lt. It’s pronounced ‘meh-teh-litz-ah’ and has nothing to
do with heavy metal or Metallica. It’s the place to go to if
you want to bounce along to ditzy Russian pop, get a beer
glass dropped on your head from the balcony, or for get-
ting threatening ‘I think you’re a foreigner and I wanna kick
your head in’ looks from the tracksuit wearing thugs. The
music is fun, but otherwise the place is foul. QOpen 21:00
- 06:00, Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.
PJALG
Papa Jazz K-3, Savanorių 178, tel. 73 47 18, fax 40
68 41, www.papajazz.lt. A bit kind of cabaret style, and
given that the food consists of badly mangled versions of
ambitiously classy dishes, the quality of the evening will
depend on the entertainment. Come along if Robbie Williams
is playing. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.
PAULEGW
Siena C/D-2, Laisvės 93, tel. 42 44 24, info@siena.
lt, www.siena.lt. You could do a lot worse than hitting ‘the
wall’ (which is what siena means) for a great night out. The
neat little network of brick cellars have been divided into two
sections. One offers a large dance floor and more hard-core
music, making it ideal for those who came to dance in a trance.
The other is a brighter chipper night-café kind of space with
plenty of booth style seating surrounding a smaller dance
floor, and is more the scene for mingling. Given that you can
flit from one to the other, it’s a great spot and not surprisingly
popular with locals and visitors alike. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PJALGW
Sin Baltų 16, tel. 23 99 93, info@sinclub.lt, www.
sinclub.lt. Renamed, redecorated in a dark raunchcy style
and reopened on Friday the 13th. Sounds scary. Apparently,
the idea for this place, which looks like a sex shop in an
amphitheatre, came to the owner in a dream. You know...
that sort of dream. There are lots of shiny black surfaces
and soft pink bits. Whether people turn up tends to depend
on the enter tainment. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Closed in summer, open in autumn.
PULEGBW
Zepelinus Kovo 11-osios 22, tel. +370 600 227 22,
zepelinus@zepelinus.lt. Huge, modern, sleek, fun and
annoyingly nowhere near the centre of town. Expect to pay
10-15 litas in a taxi to get there or back, or drive off the M-2
edge of our map and look for the big blimp on the roof of a
shopping centre. When you do arrive you can dance to techno-
cum-pop among pretty girls and an all-ages bagful of blokes
with less brains than are required to be considerate to oth-
ers. They thoughtlessly bump, shove and blunder about like
demented cattle, making even moderately civilised foreigners
look wonderful by comparison. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Mon
11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. Closed
Sun. PALGW
Nightlife 29
Žemyn Upe B-2, Valančiaus 24, tel. 42 45 49, info@
zemynupe.lt, www.zemynupe.lt. Small and made entirely
of wood. So it’s ideal for termites. Despite the dismal bus
depot surroundings a young and easy-going crowd fills the
place easily and froths up a good atmosphere. Blokes sit
on the wiggly wooden balcony overlooking the dancefloor,
where girls wiggle their bits to the thumping sound system.
Avoid horrible Lithuanian barnyard music by turning up after
23:00. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 04:00. PJAULEGBW
Poker king
Ever heard of Tony G? For professional poker players the
name would inspire some combination of fear, disgust
and respect. Tony is a bit of a hot shot on the world
poker scene, has set up his own online poker site, and
hails from Kaunas.
Being very good at playing poker isn’t what has made
Tony so famous. It’s more his style. He has a way of
psychologically toying with his opponents at the table
– taunting, teasing, challenging and harassing. Look
him up on YouTube and you’ll be able to see, and hear,
what we mean.
Tony grew up in Kaunas, but moved to Melbourne, Aus-
tralia, at the age of 11 and started playing poker soon
after. Of course Kaunas kids are all pretty tough, but
adding a bit of Aussie rough-and-tumble irreverence (or
sheer bloody minded rudeness and uncouthness, if you
prefer) seems to have proved quite potent. Australians
can leisurely exhale bolshie insults in a manner that
makes Hells Angels, gansta-rappers and U.S.Marines
look like little girls. Refined and genteel European poker
players tend to be a bit put off-guard when Tony starts
going at them like a belligerent galah.
Now Tony hauls in large sums of money, frequently
appears on poker cable television programmes and is
no less inclined to give opponents a good verbal spray.
Although we hear that he’s really rather nice when he’s
not trying to win money off you.
Casinos
Los Casino F-1, Savanorių 124, tel. 33 82 28, fax
33 82 31, info@lospatrankos.lt, www.lospatrankos.
lt. In the basement of the oversized Los Patrankos night,
if you are not having any luck twisting on the dance floor
you can quickly take a spin at their roulette wheel. This
is a renovated casino and no more than just slots. Q
24hrs. PJG
Meksikos Casino J-3, Savanorių 170, tel. 73 25 62,
www.olympic-casino.lt. Q 24hrs. PG
May 2007 - May 2008
30 What to see What to see 31

St. Gertrude’s C-2/3,

A day in Kaunas is not really enough to do the city justice,
especially for serious tourists who like to check-off a list Churches Laisvės 101a, tel. 22 99 Swan song
of museums and galleries. Here are a few highlights for Mosque F-3, Totorių 3/ Ramybės park. Built in 1930 65. This tidy little tucked-
those who are on a tight touring schedule. After you’ve had by the local Tatar association, on the site of an old wooden away treat of a church is Town Hall A-3, Rotušės aikštė. It’s been used as
enough culture, religion and food for thought, be sure to church, this beautiful little building remains an active focal worth seeking out if you’re an ammo dump and prison (although not at the same
have a stroll along Laisves Alėja and Old Town for shop- point for the city’s dwindling Tartar community. The structure wandering up and down time, of course),
ping and sustenance. Kaunas may seem small at first belongs to the Kaunas Tartar Cultural Renaissance Associa- Laisvės. It was built in the a ritzy palace,
glance but you will likely be pleasantly surprised by how tion. It was completely renovated in the early 1970s, and really latter half of the 15th cen- a Russian the-
much there is to take in. Entry costs into all museums and does have to be seen to be believed. J tury and rates highly on the atre, a church, a
sights are subject to change according to season but are small-and-cute scale. Be club of unspeci-
generally a real bargain at less than 10Lt. Orthodox Cathedral F-3, Vytauto 38, tel. 20 95 63. sure to sneak around the fied repute, a
Kaunas’ two Orthodox cathedrals can be found adjacent back where you may find a h an g- ou t for
to each other in Ramybės park, next to the exquisite white sunken room full of candles shag ged-out
firemen and a
The many shades of Soboras mosque. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. J hidden down some teeny
stairs behind a low door. we d d i n g p a l -
St. Francis Church & Jesuit Monastery A-3, Rotušės Q Services 18:00 (except ace. N ow i t’s
S t . M i c h a e l t h e A r c h a n ge l F -2/3, Aikštė 7, tel. 42 30 98. Built in 1666, burned in 1732, Sat), Sun 09:00, 11:00. J the Old (mean-
Nepriklausomybės aikštė 14, tel. 22 66 76. No consecrated in 1759. And that ing not used for
trip to Kaunas is complete without wandering up and was just the start of a bumpy Sts. Peter & Paul Cathedral A-3, Vilniaus 1, tel. 32 40 t h a t p u rp os e
down Laisvės Alėja ride that turned into a religious 93. Built in 1408, the main point of interest of this cathedral anymore) Town
(Freedom Avenue) rollercoaster that makes The is that it is the only Gothic Hall. And a pot-
a b ou t a d ozen t y Da Vinci Code look dull and church (normall y wi th a tery museum.
times and taking in sleepy. (Actually, reading the cross-shaped floor-plan) The telescopic-
the gently imposing small print on the back of car with a basilica floor-plan in looking tower is
sight of the St. Mi- rental agreements makes the entire country. In 1921 53 metres high
chael the Archangel The Da Vinci Code look dull in order to mark the impor- and forms a bit
church - otherwise by comparison, but that’s tance of the cathedral it of a centre-point in the Old Town, thrusting as it does
known as Soboras another matter.) A monastery was designated a basilica. above the main square. The building itself has been
- at its eastern end and college were built in 1761- Today the cathedral boasts there since 1542. Originally it housed a few shops on
on half of them.The 1768 – just five years before nine separate altars with the ground floor, while municipal functions and fumblings
avenue runs almost the Pope decided to abolish the high-Baroque main altar took place on the floor above. Prisoners were locked up
exactly east-west, Jesuit Order altogether. The being the central focus. in the basement.
which means that sneaky monks, however, hung The cathedral/basilica is The place got a bit of a visual pep-up in 1780 under the
in the early morning around until 1787 and when also the final resting place direction of architect Jan Mattekier. Among other things,
or late evening you they finally scarpered, turned the church and monastery over of two politically active, statues of Lithuania’s Grand Dukes were added, but they
can enjoy a spec- to the Franciscans. Then some alters were altered (read: religious writers. Along the somehow managed to go AWOL before the place was
tacularly lit prom- torn down) and big screens were put up to hide those that south wall one can find the turned into a church in 1824. Not long after that, and
enade as you walk in couldn’t be easily demolished. The church became Orthodox, tomb of Maironis (1862-1932), a priest and poet, who some with seemingly little sense of irony, the place was filled
one direction, or be re-branded as Alexander of Neva Cathedral in 1843. After the consider one of the main founders of what became Lithu- with ammunition.
blinded by the low-slung sun as you stumble along in the First World War, Jesuits returned to Lithuania from Germany anian modern poetry. Also within the crypt find the remains In 1837 the Russians decided to change the building into
other direction bumping into everyone and everything. and reclaimed the church. The monastery became a high of Bishop Motiejus Valančius (1801-1875), best known for a sort of road house for the Tsar to stop by on his way
The view of the church itself is especially splendid as the school. During the Soviet period, the monastery buildings his contributions to the then-illegal printing and distribution to somewhere more interesting. By Tsar standards it
sun sets at the western end of the avenue. The metallic were a technical college, the interior of the church was used as of books in Lithuanian. The light Renaissance and baroque may have been little more than a Little Chef, but that still
domes on the roof seem to glisten against a coloured a sports hall, the crypts were used as a sauna and the church touches are the result of renovations from 1655-1660. Q would have meant filling the building with lavish furniture,
sunset sky. It seems that every time you look at it, So- attic housed a shooting gallery. The church was returned to Services 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, things gilded with gold, beautiful artworks, sparkly and
boras is putting on a show, with the metallic domes on the Jesuits in 1990, and re-consecrated in 1992. Q Services 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J dripping chandeliers and hordes of scurrying servants.
the roof shining and reflecting different hues. (If you don’t 17:00, Sun 10:00, 12:00, 17:00. J Somehow, all that finery simply vanished.
have time to hang around waiting for the light to change, Vytautas Church H-5, Aleksoto 3, tel. 20 38 54. Like In the short period from 1862 to 1869, the building went
you can jus stab yourself in the eyes with your fingers St. George Church and Bernardine Monastery A- most churches in the country, Vytautas Church is a condensed on a sort of multi-purpose personality disorder rampage.
a few times and then look at the church - the effect is 2, Papilio 9, tel. 22 46 59. You can’t really appreciate this history lesson. The Gothic One minute you’d look and there was some kind of a City
similar.) None of this, however explains why the church sad and somewhat spooky structure was built by Fran- Club humming away inside. Then you’d blink and suddenly
is referred to as Sobras. Or why it looks like it was made looking building without tak- ciscan monks in the begin- it was full of fire fighters coming together to compare old
with a giant ice cream scoop. The answer is simple: Rus- ing into account its history. ning of the 15th century flames, shoot the soot and pop each others’ blisters (or
sian architects.Because this blue building has a striking It’s had a bit of a rough trot with the tower added later whatever else it is that firemen do in their spare time).
similarity to most Russian Orthodox cathedrals, rather since beginnings in 1487. It that century. Invaders took Then there was a dramatic change as a Russian theatre
than a Catholic church, it is referred to as soboras, or a has been ruined by fire three advantage of the central turned up and started performing in there (not that there
Lithuanization of the Russian word sobor or cathedral. times, copped the wrath of location - the building was would have been much difference, really) and then … oh,
The neo-Byzantine, symmetrical building, built towards the Moscow army during the used as ammunitions stor- it seems everyone’s lost track.
the end of the 19th century by Russian architects, can war of 1656-1659 and then age by the Napoleonic army From 1869 until the Second World War, the building was
be found at the eastern end of Laisvės alėja. Come here had a bit of a rest during the (who set the building ablaze once again used as municipal offices. After the war its
on Saturdays, where it forms a wonderful backdrop for a 18th century before Napoleon in farewell) and later as an lovely accommodation was offered to a bunch of dusty
never-ending parade of weddings. Q Services 12:00, came along and decided to Orthodox cathedral from old documents as it was used as an archive. In the 50s
Sat 10:00, Sun 10:00, 12:00. J turn it into a warehouse. Dur- 1845-1853. The church it was the construction faculty of Kaunas Polytechnic
ing Soviet times, the church, was returned to the Catho- (now Kaunas University of Technology).
somewhat ironically, was used lics in 1990. Juozas Tumas- In 1969 the building got another facelift (architect:
to store drugs. It was returned Vaižgantas (1869-1933), a Žibarto Simanavičiaus), and in 1973 was returned to
the municipality. Now it is a wedding hall, and showing
Kaunas In Your Pocket ... to the Friars in 1993 in a
pretty shabby condition, and restoration is slow. In terms
famous Lithuanian political activist and writer, is buried here.
The English-speaking, friendly priests may show you around up on a Saturday to see the parade of brides, balloons
we’re here to tell you where to go of significance and damage, this place tops the lists. Q the church. Q Services Tue, Wed, Thu 18:00, Sat, 10:00, and fancy cars is well worthwhile. Q J
Services Mon - Fri 18:00, Sun 10:30. J 18:00, Sun 10:00, 12:00, 18:00.

Kaunas In Your Pocket May 2007 - May 2008

32 What to see
An idea that lasted a century
Christ’s Resurrection Church E-1, Žemaičių 31.
What looks a bit like a comic book power station is in fact
a church, although the story behind it is certainly worthy of
any wacko-retro comic. The idea to erect a church on this
hill overlooking Kaunas was first conceived by a group of
devout Christians in 1922 as a bit of a ‘thank you’ to God
for the independence that was won in 1918. Kaunas was
the temporary capital of Lithuania at the time, so it was
only appropriate that such a monument be raised here.
It took some 10 years of wrangling and wrestling with red
tape, and a design competition, before construction was
started in 1933. The design chosen, and that you can
now see realized, was that of Engineer Karolis Reisonas,
who clearly had a penchant for thinking big. The height of
the main tower above the entrance is 70m, and there’s
enough room for some 5,000 pious patrons, provided
that a couple of thousand of them don’t mind standing
on the roof. The cornerstone for the church came from
Olive Mountain in Jerusalem. Grand plans, indeed - but
they were not to be realised. Construction was halted
at the end of the 1930s when Lithuania fell victim to
Soviets, then Nazis, then Soviets again. What had been
constructed was confiscated and turned into a Nazi
paper warehouse, and then a Soviet radio factory. The
radio factory, Banga (which means ‘wave’ in Lithuanian,
incidently), meddled with the building to suit their needs,
basically filling up the lofty interior with floors and making
it, well, like a factory. They resisted the temptation to use
the crosses as big radio antennae, choosing to simply
remove them instead. When Lithuania again regained
independence, Banga were told to return the building to
the church in the same condition in which they found it.
Fat chance. They returned it, or rather just abandoned it,
without any effort to restore it to anything like a church.
Reconstruction since than has been happening in fits
and starts as funds, the majority of which are from public
donations, became available. The church was finally
consecrated on December 26, 2004, making the entire
construction phase span some 70 years. Now it’s nearly
finished and well worth a visit. You can take an elevator to
the roof (5Lt), take in a vista of Kaunas, say ‘Oh gosh, what
a mess’ a few times, have a cup of coffee at the roof-top
café, fill your camera with photos that won’t do the grand
structure justice, and then go home. A visit is also made
more fun by the fact that you can use one of Kaunas’s
two funicular railways to reach the church from the centre
- see the Getting Around section for details. J
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Museums
The hours listed below are generally summer hours unless
otherwise indicated so bear in mind that during winter
most museums shorten their working hours slightly.
Entrance fees usually hover around 5Lt (but these too can
vary according to season) making a stop worthwhile.
Aviation Museum Veiverių 132, tel. 39 03 57, fax 29
55 47, lam@lam.lt, www.lam.lt. A modest collection of
memorabilia and some actual aircraft, including a home-built
helicopter and a Soviet-built flight simulator. The emphasis
is on fun and education, and if you can, take a guided tour
(regrettably in Lithuanian only) for just 10Lt. Outside, as well
as a rather grotesque memorial to 21 Lithuanian aviators,
find a collection of rusting jets and propeller-driven beasts,
including a rather sexy MIG21PF. Considering this airfield was
where Darius and Girėnas were due to land, it’s a real shame
that the remains of their plane and other effects are kept at
the Military Museum of Vytautas The Great. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Ceramics Museum A-3, Rotušės 15, tel. 20 35 72. Not
for the claustrophobic or the portly as the steps leading down
to this museum in the basement of the Town Hall (Rotušė) are
nothing short of challenging. Still, if you’re brave enough to try it,
it’s well worth the trip. It’s not large by anyone’s standards, but
it does house a wide range of ceramics from pottery found dur-
ing archaeological digs dating back to the 16th century to some
exquisite hand-painted tiles to the very latest in what today’s
artisans are getting up to with a bag of clay and an unfettered
imagination. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J
Communications History Museum (Ryšių istorijos
muziejus) A-3, Rotušės 19, tel. 42 49 20. Come into
this diminutive museum to learn about the history of Lithu-
anian communications. The collection extends from letters
penned by Grand Duke Gediminas on the founding of Vilnius
to the (somewhat) latest in satellite communication. A great
deal focuses on the postal system with the first stamp and
examples of horse-drawn mail carriages on display. Old-style
wind-up phones remind one of how simple it now is to keep in
touch. All written explanations are only in Lithuanian. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Fri. J
Communications History Museum scale models of famous buildings or essays in Braille. In fact
Historical Presidential Palace C-2, Vilniaus 33, tel.
32 05 89, info@istorineprezidentura.lt, www.istorinepre-
zidentura.lt. Mostly flags, documents, coins, stamps, and
personal effects of Lithuania’s Presidents during the inter-war
period, when Kaunas was the capital. It’s not as boring as it
sounds, and recent exhibitions have included a display of po-
tential designs for Lithuania’s Euro coins. In the garden, there
are three statues of Lithuania’s inter-war Presidents: Kazius
Grinius (sculptor Stasys Žirgulis), Aleksandras Stulginskis
(sculptor Vytautas Narutis) and Antanas Smetona (sculptor
Alfonsas Vaura). QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J
What to see 33
Wacky Kaunas
Devil Museum D-2, Putvinskio 64, tel. 22 15 87.
This museum owes itself to the eccentric Antanas
Žmuidzinavičius (1876-1966) who collected over 2,000
depictions of devils from all over the world. There are also
wood carvings, soft toys and loads of references to music
and alcohol. Of particular interest are the Hitler and Stalin
devils, doing the dance of death over a helpless Lithuania.
Dating from Soviet times, Stalin wasn’t in fact depicted as
a devil, he just happens to look that way. Essential visit-
ing this one, especially should you get the chance to see
one of the handful of people who believe in asking for the
devil’s help whilst at the museum. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. J
Herd mentality Valdonė Bručienė
Tadas Ivanauskas Zoological Museum C-2,
Laisvės 106, tel./fax 22 96 75. A staggering display of
former life. Dead things are pickled, stuffed, pinned or oth-
erwise preserved and presented for your ogling pleasure.
It starts off with blobby, sucky, spongey, slithery things in
jars and proceeds to tableaux of wildebeest mingling with
giraffes while penguins look on from across the room. The
museum also offer taxidermy services, in case you have an
old friend who you would like to get stuffed.QOpen 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon. J
Devil Museum of Hair Salon – we can‘t remember which
Man E-3, Outside the Mykolas Žilinskas Art Museum,
Nepriklausomybės aikštė 12. The work of sculptor Pe-
tras Mazūras, and installed in 1991, this naked figure so
outraged the crane driver helping with its, ahem, erection,
that he walked off the job. Find it to the right as you reach
the square walking from the direction of Old Town. Q J
Inside the Museum for the Blind
Museum For The Blind E-3, Nepriklausomybės
aikštė 14, tel. 22 66 76. Despite the name, this isn’t a
museum for blind people with touchy-feely or talking exhibits,
it’s not really a museum at all. It’s more like an opportu-
nity for sighted people to experience blindness and grope
around in absolute darkness in the catacombs beneath
the St. Michael the Archangel church. We won’t tell you
exactly what’s in there as that would spoil it, but clearly the
designers have had some experience with padded walls and
stockings. This is one of the strangest things you’ll never
see in Kaunas. Open whenever the church is open, but the
entrance is at the back. QOpen , Wed 11:00 - 15:30, Sat
11:00 - 13:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sun. J
Kaunas‘s most startling erection
May 2007 - May 2008
34 What to see
Jewish Kaunas
Cemetery L- 3, Between Basanavičiaus and
Baranausko. Wrecked by Nazis and still in a state of
haunting disrepair.
Jewish Community Centre E-3, Gedimino 26b,
tel. 20 37 17. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Kovno Ghetto H-3, Vilijampolė district, Ariogalos
and Kriščiukaičio. A memorial stands here to those
Jews who perished under the Nazis.
Ninth Fort Žemaičių Plentas 73, tel. 37 77 15.
This late 19th century fort was the ninth in a series con-
structed by the Russians to defend the western border
of their empire. Under Nazi occupation Jews were impris-
oned here before execution in the killing fields behind. It
wasn’t just Lithuanian Jews who perished here. “We are
500 Frenchmen”, Abraham Wechsler of Limoges carved
into the wall before his death. During the Soviet years a
typically bland concrete museum commemorating the
genocide of the ‘Soviet people’ was built here. Jews
were never specifically mentioned. It’s now the site of a
museum, focusing on both the extermination of Jews as
well as the deportations of Lithuanians by the Soviets.
Buses leave from the bus station every 10-30 minutes.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.
Sugihara House & Foundation K-4, Vaižganto
30, tel. 33 28 81, fax 42 32 77, sugihara@takas.lt,
www.geocities.jp/lithuaniasugiharahouse. Chiune
Sugihara was the Japanese consul to Lithuania for a brief
period between 1939 and 1940. Together with a Dutch
colleague, Jan Zwartendijk, he saved thousands of Polish
Jews by issuing visas to get them out of the country and
away to safety. Many later settled in Israel or the United
States and have since championed his cause. This is the
house where the Japanese consulate was located, and
Sugihara lived with his family. There is a small museum
inside. Q Open Oct - Apr 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
May - Sep 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Synagogue C-2, Ožeškienės 17. Dating back to
1871, this building claims to have one of the most
beautiful altars in the entire Jewish world. A memorial to
the estimated 1,700 children murdered at the Ninth Fort
can be found at the rear of the building. The crumbling
remains of two other synagogues are located at Zamen-
hofo 7 and 9. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. J
Ninth Fort Memorial
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Kaunas Picture Gallery F-2, Donelaičio 16, tel. 22 17
89. A part of the National M.K.Čiurlionis Art Museum, display-
ing the works of local artists and émigrés from the mid-20th
century. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J
Lithuanian Sports Museum A-3, Muziejaus 7, tel. 22
06 91. A small collection of some of the country’s greatest
sporting achievements in a musty attic, including such rarities
as Soviet table tennis balls to one of the torches used at the
opening ceremony of the 1980 Moscow Olympic Games.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Medicine and Pharmacy Museum A-3, Rotušės
28, tel. 20 15 69, lmfmuziejus@med.kmu.lt. Apparently,
dissolved hair from Venus
(the goddess of love, not the
planet) is an excellent elixir
to keep ladies looking young
and lovely. And they’ve got
some h ere. Th ey’ve also
got the ground up heads
of dead people which, ap-
paren tl y, takes th e edge
of epilepsy. Not onl y can
you see bottles and jars of
such strange concoctions,
but the bizarre contraptions
with which they and other
mind-blowing vapours were
produced. Housed in a 16th
century building, there’s a sense of furtive fascination to this
place, and it offers a bizarre glimpse into a world of medical
madness and what can really only be described as witchcraft.
(Although the staff are not witch-like at all). QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J
Military Museum D-2, Donelaičio 64, tel. 32 09 39/32
08 74. An eye-opening if somewhat horrific look at the his-
tory of Lithuanian bloodshed. Also of note is that the wreck
of the Lituanica and the horrific, sewn-back-together suits
that the two pilots were wearing when their plane met its
untimely demise can be found here. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. J
M. K. Čiurlionis State Art Museum D-2, Putvinskio
55, tel. 22 94 75. Painter, composer, mystic and depressive,
are some of the adjectives that have been used to describe
the nation’s artistic hero. During his short lifetime, Čiurlionis
(1875-1911) churned out the first Lithuanian symphony (In
The Forest), painted prolifically and even found time to get
married and have a daughter. Many claim that Čiurlionis was
the inventor of abstract art instead of Russia’s Kandinsky as
the history books dictate. What is clear is that the man was a
genius. Come here and find out for yourself. See page 60 for
more on Čiurlionis.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J
Museum of Exiles & Political Prisoners F-3, Vytauto
46, tel. 32 31 79. A fascinating little museum dedicated to
telling the story of the Lithuanian freedom fighters, who waged
a constant nine-year war against the Soviet occupiers from
1945 until 1953, as well as a look into life in Stalin’s gulags.
Find a huge collection of photographs, trinkets, improvised
tools, bullets and other paraphernalia. Unfortunately, not
much is in English, but a small booklet is available complete
with some information in English. Note that the admission
price is voluntary, and pay attention to the fact that many
of the photographs on display are not suitable for children.
Closed for renovatioin when we were preparing this guide (April
2007) but should be open for the summer. QOpen 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J
Museum of Folk Music & Instruments B-3, Zamen-
hofo 12, tel. 42 22 95. Housed in a couple of buildings that
one really should see even if they were empty, this charming
little museum features
a substantial collection
of Lithuanian folk instru-
ments, including the usual
pipes and kanklės, to one
or two more surreal ex-
hibits, such as the ‘table
bass’, a standard pine
kitchen table with four
large strings running over
the top, supported by an
inflated pig’s bladder no
less. There’s even a small selection of tiny reed instruments
fashioned from the quills of feathers. The second space
focuses on instruments from abroad that have been incor-
porated into traditional Lithuanian folk music over the years,
including a lovely selection of harmoniums, and one or two
rare examples of a seven-string guitar. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. J
Mykolas Žilinskas Art Museum E-3, Nepriklausomybės
aikštė 12, tel. 22 28 53. The derriere of the Man statue lets
you know you’re in the right place. The museum’s large col-
lection of European paintings holds examples of almost every
major art movement in the last hundred years. The museum is
usually noted as being the home of the only Rubens in Lithu-
ania, but some believe it is the home of just some superior
copies of Rubens. Take your loupe and come up with your own
theory. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J
Parks & Gardens
Ąžuolynas K/L-4, Between Vydūno and Radvilėnų. This
park is named after the tall oak trees for which it is famous.
The trees, considered sacred to ancient pagans, now make
the area a lovely spot for strolling. Definitely one of the most
popular parks in the city. The south-east corner (L-4) was a
favourite hide-away and lookout point for the famous Lithu-
anian-Polish poet Adam Mickiewicz. There’s a rock there that,
legend has it, was carved by the writer himself. It shows hands
holding a quill and his initials.
Sightseeing tours
Kauno Saitas Travel Agency E-2, Donelaičio
26-1, tel. 32 31 51, fax 20 72 36, travel@saitas.lt,
www.saitas.lt. English and German-language walking
and bus tours of the best sights in Kaunas. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Litinterp F-3, Gedimino 28-7, tel. 22 87 18/+370
685 853 75, fax 42 51 20, kaunas@litinterp.lt,
www.litinterp.lt. Can help arrange tours. QOpen
08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Tourism Information Centre Mūsų Odisėja J-5,
Čiurlionio 15, tel. 40 84 10, fax 40 84 11, info@
turinfo.lt, www.turinfo.lt. Sightseeing tours in Lithu-
anian, English, German, Japan, French, Russian. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com
What to see 35
Botanical Gardens (Botanikos sodas) Žilibero 6,
tel. 29 53 00. A highly recommended summertime outing,
find exotic plants from all over the world in beautiful surround-
ings. To get there, take bus N°35 from the Castle. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Places of interest
Aukštieji Šančiai Cemetery K-5, Ašmenos 1. A small
military cemetery, and final resting place of Steponas Darius
and Stasys Girėnas.
Kaunas Castle A-2, Papilio. The city’s 13th century
castle, probably built by Kęstutis to defend a road to Trakai,
was the country’s first defensive bastion and the only double-
walled castle in Lithuania.
The surrounding walls were
ini tiall y over two metres
wide and 13m high. Unlike
most other castles of the
time this one was made of
stone, not wood. However, in
1362, after a siege, crusad-
ers (possibly encouraged
by three little pigs) man-
aged to destroy it. Legend
has it that the castle was
not destroyed and that 36
survivors remained. These
sur vi vors along wi th the
knights allegedly are still
burning in an eternal fire which can only be extinguished by
an innocent person entering the castle via a secret cave.
However, history books dictate that the castle was destroyed
and its replacement, some of which can be viewed at this
site today, was built by 1368. Now the castle has been
modernized with sleek glass windows enclosing the top,
and is sometimes home to art exhibitions. It was full of weird
glowing neon sculptures, ultraviolet lights and pictures of
keys last time we popped in. What would the crusaders have
thought of that? Q J
Pažaislis Convent/Monastery Masiulio 31, tel.
45 64 85 A 17th century Baroque church and monastery
originally built for the curious water-sipping, bread-nibbling,
closet-dwelling Camaldoese monks. It has since been ram-
paged by Napoleon’s soldiers, closed by tsarist officials, used
as a military hospital by Germans, turned into an old persons’
home and a psycho-neurological hospital (lobotomy, anyone?)
and has also served as a tourist centre. In 1992 it was handed
over to the St. Casimir nuns who have been looking after it
ever since. QOpen 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon.
Pažaislis: former centre of monkish business
May 2007 - May 2008
36 What to see
Perkūnas House A-3, Aleksoto 6. Built in a similar style
to St. Anne’s church in Vilnius, this is one of the most original
examples of late Gothic architecture in Lithuania. Built dur-
ing the final days of the 15th century, the rich architecture
symbolised the economic power of the Hanseatic League
and German expansion. Today, it plays host to regular art
classes. Q J
Sixth Fort M-3, Intersection of Baršausko, Kovo 11-
osios, Riomerio, Kalantos and Pramonės. When Lithuania
was a part of the Soviet Union, Stalin’s tank stood here to
commemorate ‘freedom from the fascists’. When Lithuania
regained its independence in 1991, the tank was removed,
and crosses began to appear in its place. And they just
keep coming.
Town Square (Rotušės aikštė) A-3. Originally the cen-
tre of economic life, the foundation stone was laid on July 28,
1542. The large square now serves as a popular meeting and
greeting place during the hot summer months. Q J
Zoo L-3, Radvilėnų 21, tel. 33 25 40, zoosodas@is.lt,
www.zoosodas.lt. With about 250 species of animals that
call this place home, the
Kaunas zoo also has the
distinction of being the only
zoo (save the aquatic one
in Klaipėda) in the entire
country. The grounds can
be downright depressing
at points, as unlike the rest
of the countr y full-scale
renovations haven’t taken
place here yet. However
small children, missing the
inherent injustice in keeping
the animals caged for their
edi fication and amuse-
ment, may enjoy the place.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Adults 7Lt, children 5Lt (Nov 1 - Apr
31). Adults 9Lt, children 7Lt (May 1 - Oct 31).
Statues
According to municipality records there are over 30
statues in Kaunas. A select few of which have been hidden
since August 1990. However, by the recent decision of
the Ministry of Culture Lenin and his bronze pals came out
from their secret vault to live in the Grūtas park with the
rest of their friends from other Lithuanian towns in a Mu-
seum of Soviet Sculpture. Below we list the best of those
still considered worthy of standing in Kaunas.
Vytautas the Great, sculpture by V. Grybas resemblance to Vladimir Ilyich Lenin. Q J
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Freedom Monument, sculpture by J. Zikaras is reflected in the style
Darius & Girėnas K-4, Sporto and Perkūno. Bumbling
barnstormers or ace aviators? The case remains open. What
is clear is that these two chaps remain two of Lithuania’s
best-loved souls. The 25m-high, three tonne bronze structure,
finally built 60 years after their deaths according to the original
(shelved) 1937 plans, is awesome in its simplicity.
Freedom Monument D-2, Vienybės aikštė. The ac-
cepted symbol of Lithuanian statehood first appeared in
1928 but was destroyed by the by the Stalinist regime. In
1989 it was rebuilt, and figures in a collection of statues
leading to one of the few remaining eternal flames in the
region. Q J
Maironis A-3, Rotušės aikštė 13. A radical story, Mai-
ronis was a priest and poet, and as such was considered
highly dangerous by the Soviets. To get around this slight
problem, nobody told them whom they were erecting, and
the statue is notable in that there is no cross as is usual in
such structures. His arm is in such a position so as to hide
his dog collar. Q J
Romas Kalanta D-3, Miesto Sodas (City Garden). The
memorial to the 19-year-old student who, on May 14, 1972,
set himself on fire on this spot to protest against the Soviet
system. Called Sacrifice Field, it was officially unveiled 30
years to the day after the tragic event, and is composed of
cast irons sheets representing the burnt pages of history,
and 19 stones representing the years of Kalantas’ life. May
14 incidentally has been officially declared the National Day
of Civil Resistance. Q J
Unknown Soldier F-3/4, Old City Cemetery (Ramybės
Parkas), between Vytauto and Trakų. Notable for the
graves of the unknown soldiers who gave their lives in the
struggle for Lithuanian independence between 1919 and
1922. Q J
Vytautas the Great D-2, Laisvės 96/98. Vytautas,
the ‘Creator of Lithuanian Power’, stands over four defeated
soldiers, namely a Pole, Tartar, crushed German crusader
and a Russian who just so happens to bear a rather uncanny
Castle cruising
If you have a car in Kaunas, and a day to spare, we’d
like to suggest a pleasant drive along route 141.
Within 80km you’ll find three castles, amazing river
valley views and some children who don’t know how
lucky they are. The road follows the Nemunas river to
a place called Jurbarkas, and the castles along it were
originally built by invading Teutonic knights as a part of
a defensive system. Now, the ‘castles’ are really only
good for scenery.
Raudondvaris Castle
It’s not really a castle at all, rather a big house with a
castle-like bit stuck on one end. The round pointy tower
was presumably built to look pretty, as it certainly
wouldn’t have been much good at defending against
anything more aggressive than, say, boredom.
The not-really-a-castle
was completed in 1615
wh en Renaissance
was all the range and
Gothic was, like, so
not cool anymore. This
of the building – neat
a n d p rop o r ti o n e d,
and without pointed
arches or bristly bits.
The castle and the
other buildings around
it have been neglected, burned, abandoned, and
reconstructed with the renaissance features somewhat
enhanced. The main building is now home to a museum
dedicated to composer Juozas Naujalis (1869-1934)
who… erm… we don’t have space to write about
here. (Although we will mention that there is a statue
of him near the village church that shows you what he
would have looked like if he had been encased inside a
toothpaste tube. We have sculptor L.Žuklys to thank for
that). QMuseum open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Tel. 44 96 01, +370 612 533 14.
Vilkija
Next you’ll come across Vilkija town – worth visiting
unless you’re driving a manual transmission and are
rubbish at clutch control. The whole place is formed of
steep streets.
The first attraction here is the Antanas and Jonas Juskos
Ethnic Culture Museum (Kauno mažoji 2, tel. 55 64 00).
These brothers spent their spare time doing things like
writing dictionaries and inventing new letters, like Č and
Ž, to be used to write the Lithuanian language. They
enabled people to be able to write words like čežėti (to
scuffle), čiuožti (to skate) and čežėčiuožoujame (which
means ‘we skate and scuffle at the same time’ and
which we just made up). The museum is very hands-on
and features a whole host of fragments of Lithuanian
history and folklore. It’s open 08:00 - 15:00 with an
hour break for lunch at 12:00, Tuesdays to Saturdays
inclusive. From December 1 to April 1, they stay open
until 17:00 for some reason.
Further up the hill you can turn left at the wooden
sculpture of Saint Florinan (Šv. Florijono) who is
supposed to protect the city from fire – and was doing
a fine job when we visited, as it was raining – and
come across the Church of St. George which boasts a
wonderful view of the river valley.
What to see 37
Raudone Castle
This is another not-quite-a-castle, but it looks very castle-
like with a 35m tower and toothy rooflines. We’re not sure
whether a real castle ever stood here but the area was used
for a royal manor in the 16th century. At the end of that time
Krispin Kirschenstein – a wealthy merchant, not a crunchy
sugar-coated breakfast treat – built the current ‘castle’. It
was a measured and sensible renaissance structure at the
time, and while that is still evident in the main courtyard,
Kirschenstein’s descendants decided to add the gothic-
revival castle-like bits. You can visit the tower if you turn
up between 10:00 and 17:00 and call the number on the
sign near the door.
(The sign is only in
Lithuanian, but just
says you can visit
the tower if you call
the number).
One interesting thing
you’ll notice about
this building is that
the windows are full
o f pa p e r fl o we r s
and you’ll o ften
hear laughter or find
yourself swarmed by small backpack-wearing people. The
building is home to a primary school. Imagine that – going
to school in a castle. We really don’t think those children
realize how lucky they are.
Panemunė Castle
While it’s in rather a poor state (a crumbling, neglected,
dilapidated wreck) this is possibly the most impressive
castle you will come across. It is nestled among lakes in a
small forest and just has something about its appearance
that seems to suggest it is from another time and place.
The original owner was indeed from another time and
place – the late 16th century, and Hungary. The castle was
built between 1604-1610 to a design by Dutch architect
Peter Nonhaardt, who was serving at the Royal Palace in
Vilnius. The ‘lakes’ around the castle were actually a part
of a defence system.
In 1753, the castle was sold to Baron Leo Ingelstrom, who
later (1759) sold it to the Gelgaudas noble family. They set
about changing it to suit their tastes, adding a few classical
features, and making the interior all very lavish. What a
nice home it would have been, but despite the temptation
of lounging about in it and doing nothing much, Anthony
Gelgaudas decided
to lead a rebellion
a ga i n s t t h e Ts a r
(1831). The rebellion
was not successful,
Gelgaudas fled to
P r u s s i a, a n d t h e
castle fell into the
hands of the Tsar.
Next, Rev. Antanas
Petraitis bought the
partially ruined castle and, on his deathbed, expressed his
wish that it be used for religious purposes.
Now, the castle belongs to the Vilnius Academy of Fine Arts,
and it not used for anything at all. It is, however, very pretty,
and with all those little hills and lakes surrounding it, a lovely
spot to stop for a picnic before packing up and heading
home, or continuing on route 141 to Klaipėda.
May 2007 - May 2008
38 Getting around Getting around 39

Public transport Funiculars Local bus schedule International bus schedule

Bus & Trolleybus
Kaunas boasts 7 trolleybus routes and 33 bus routes. Being sunk into a valley, Kaunas is accordingly sur- From Kaunas To Kaunas From Kaunas To Kaunas
Services operate from around 05:00 until 22:00 and beyond. rounded by hills. This makes for some good places Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
Tickets cost 0.90Lt, and can be bought from any kiosk. to view the city from, two of which being at the top of 03:35 05:15 VILNIUS 05:40 07:20 08:20 12:15 5
PRAGUE 7
13:30 08:20
Alternatively, for an extra 0.10Lt, buy one directly from the small funicular lines. The 140m Žaliakalnis (Green Hill) 04:251,6 06:25 VILNIUS 06:20 07:50 08:55 19:00 4
ROME 6
07:30 19:40
driver. It’s up to you to punch your ticket once inside the funicular is the nearest of the two to the city centre, and 09:30 11:05 VILNIUS 06:35 08:15 22:40 14:40 5
PESCARA1 12:00 07:10
vehicle, but if you are caught riding illegally (ticket inspection is notable in being extremely rare due to its peculiar 10:00 11:35 VILNIUS 06:45 08:20 00:35 10:15 GDANSK 20:20 07:45
is a regular occurrence, being carried out by plain clothes mechanism. Consisting of two cars connected to the 11:00 12:35 VILNIUS 07:00 08:40 01:00 23:30 3,5
HANNOVER 5,7
05:30 05:00
controllers) you’re liable to a 20Lt on-the-spot fine. Monthly same cable, when one is going up the hill, the other is, 11:45 13:20 VILNIUS 07:40 09:20 01:00 19:00 3,5
BERLIN 5,7
10:00 05:00
you’ve guessed it, on its way down. Find the bottom sta- 13:30 15:10 VILNIUS 07:556,7 09:35 03:35 09:40 MINSK 18:10 00:30
passes are available from 35Lt. Tickets for buses are valid 15:40 17:20 VILNIUS 08:10 09:50
on trolleybuses and vice-versa. tion just two minutes from the centre between Putvinskio 15:05 20:35 KALININGRAD 22:40 04:05
and Aušros. Ticket costs 0.50Lt., 08:00-20:00, Sat, 16:10 1-4,6,7
17:45 VILNIUS 09:00 10:35 08:20 09:55 1COPENGAHEN3 17:40 19:50
Sun 08:00-20:30. 16:30 18:10 VILNIUS 09:30 11:10 19:20 08:10 5
LVOV 7
18:10 09:00
Minibus 17:00 18:40 VILNIUS 09:45 11:20
The city can also claim a large fleet of private minibuses, 17:105,6,7 18:45 VILNIUS 09:55 11:40 Numbers represent the days of the week, 1 is Monday
often sporting the same numbers and ploughing the The other funicular (Aleksoto) at Veiverių and Skriaudžių 17:20 19:05 VILNIUS 10:45 12:25 and 7 is Sunday.
same routes as the above-mentioned machines. Stop one also boasts a fine view of the city. Opened in 1935, the 17:40 19:20 VILNIUS 13:20 14:55
anywhere in the street, pay 1.50Lt, and ask to be dropped original fare was a mere 0.10Lt for adults, and, 70 years 17:50 19:25 VILNIUS 13:45 15:25
on, the price remains a bargain at just 0.50Lt., 07:00- on the right. Budget travellers should head for the bus stop
off wherever you need to be along the route. 18:00 19:40 VILNIUS 14:00 15:35
12:00, 13:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The view of the city at the bottom of Savanorių and catch minibus N°120, which
18:30 20:10 VILNIUS 15:40 17:15
from the top is wonderful and well worth the treck. 19:00 20:40 VILNIUS 15:50 17:30 goes all the way for a mere 1.50Lt.
Trains 19:30 21:05 VILNIUS 17:10 18:50 Ryanair Karmėlava (Kaunas International Airport), tel.
VILNIUS 75 01 95/75 01 96, fax 75 80 08, tix.kun@litcargus.
Train Station K-5, Čiurlionio 16, tel. 27 29 55, fax 27 20:05 21:45 17:10 18:55
lt, www.ryanair.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
28 33, kaunas.agentura@litrail.lt, www.litrail.lt. Agents Europcar Karmėlava (Kaunas International Airport), 20:40 22:20 VILNIUS 19:20 21:00
21:30 23:00 VILNIUS 22:45 00:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
stop selling tickets five minutes before departure. tel. 39 92 95, fax 39 92 25, kaunas@europcar.lt, www. 06:25 09:10 KLAIPĖDA 08:20 12:15 Stockholmsplanet Karmėlava (Kaunas International
europcar.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Buses Hertz Karmėlava (Kaunas International Airport), tel. 39
09:30
10:30
12:05
13:15
KLAIPĖDA
KLAIPĖDA
11:50
15:35
14:35
18:20
Airport), tel. 75 01 95/75 01 96, fax 75 80 08, tix.kun@
litcargus.lt, www.stockholmsplanet.com. QOpen 09:00
Bus Station F-4, Vytauto 24/26, tel. 40 90 60. The 91 56, fax 40 69 46, kaunas@hertz.lt, www.hertz.lt. 24 11:30 15:25 KLAIPĖDA 16:20 18:55 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
most popular form of public transport in Lithuania, although hours help line +370 687 909 85. 14:50 17:35 KLAIPĖDA 17:25 20:10
you wouldn’t think it by looking at the bus station. Q Open Fortuna Rent A Car S.Daukanto 19 (Kaunas Inter-
national Airport), tel. 20 19 28/+370 600 209 39, fax
18:30 5,7
21:05 KLAIPĖDA 19:255,7 22:00 Travel agencies
05:45 - 20:45 (ticket office). J
Eurolines F-3/4, Vytauto 38, tel. 20 20 20, kaunas@ +370 685 279 39, info@rentacar.lt, www.rentacar. Numbers represent the days of the week, 1 is Monday Baltic Clipper D-2, Laisvės 61-1, tel. 32 03 00, fax 22
lt. Cars, Vans and minibus rental. Attractive prices and full and 7 is Sunday. 34 71, bc@baltic-clipper.lt, www.baltic-clipper.lt. Plane
eurolines.lt, www.eurolines.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
service. QOpen 24 hrs. tickets, accommodation and tours. The lot! QOpen 09:00
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Litinterp F-3, Gedimino 28-7, tel. 22 87 18/+370 685 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Kautra Bus Lines Juozapavičiaus 84, tel. 34 24 40, Delta D-2, Laisvės 88, tel. 42 42 11/42 42 12, fax 42
fax 34 18 88, office@kautra.lt, www.kautra.lt. QOpen 853 75, fax 42 51 20, kaunas@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.
com. Car and minibus rental. Self-drives from 149Lt/day.
Airport & Airlines 32 11, info@delta-interservis.lt, www.delta-interservis.
07:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Discounts for long term rentals, special weekend rates, Air taxi Jasinskio 16B, Vilnius, tel. 252 65 88/+370 655 lt. Local and international travel. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
Car rental free mileage. Chauffeur available. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. 481 21, info@aeroservisas.lt, www.orotaksi.lt. The ultimate
travel indulgence. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Lithuanian Student & Youth Travel D-2, Ožeškienės
Closed Sat, Sun. J
AAA Autobanga Rent A Car Kaunas Airport - Arrival Sixt V. Krėvės 26a, tel. +370 650 450 25, rent@ DOT LT Karmėlava (Kaunas International Airport), tel. 27, tel./fax 40 71 40, kaunas@jaunimas.lt, www.jauni-
Terminal (Kaunas office), tel. +370 676 341 44, info@ 39 90 71, fax +370 619 906 62, info@dot.lt, www.dot.lt. mas.lt. Cheap travel for students and the under 26. QOpen
sixt.lt, www.sixt.lt. Short-term rentals of new cars,
autobanga.lt, www.autobanga.lt. New cars: sedan, QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
minibuses and buses; minilease (1-12 months). Self-drives
minivan, convertable, SUV rental. Drivers available, from
and chauffeur-drives, full package of insurances, unlim- Kaunas International Airport (Kauno Oro Uostas) Saitas E-2, Donelaičio 26-1, tel. 32 31 51, fax 20 72 36,
€20/day, including free km. and full insurance. Mini lease Karmėlava, tel. 39 93 96, fax 39 94 34, info@kaunasair. travel@saitas.lt, www.saitas.lt. A full-service travel agency.
ited mileage, 24h technical support and replacement car
(1-36 months) available. QOpen 24 hrs. lt, www.kaunasair.lt. The former military airport 12km QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
services available through Baltic States. Headquarters:
Autorenta Rodūnios 8-102 (Vilnius), tel. +370 687 772 Vilnius, Geležinio Vilko 18a, tel. +370 521 096 30, fax +370 north of the city is best reached by car or taxi. To get there Zip Travel D-3, Kęstučio 57-1, tel. 22 05 52, fax 75 01
58, info@carrent.lt, www.carrent.lt. A choice of vehicles take the Jonava highway to Karmėlava and keep an eye out 97, info@ziptravel.lt, www.ziptravel.lt. QOpen 09:00
521 096 21. Q 24 hrs.
with or without a driver at very reasonable prices. Cheap one for the huge sign and the wide road with yellow street lamps - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
way rentals.Q Open 24hrs.
Avis Rodūnios 2 (Vilnius Airport), tel./fax +370 523 293
16, apo@avis.lt, www.avis.lt. New cars with or without
Train schedule Flight schedule
driver. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Budget F-3, Savanorių 443a, tel. 49 04 40, budget@bud- From Kaunas To Kaunas From Kaunas To Kaunas
get.lt, www.budget.lt. Central reservations tel. (8-5) 230 67 Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.
08 (Vilnius). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J 06:001 07:12 VILNIUS 05:481 07:28
06:05 07:48 VILNIUS 06:33 07:45 –2–4–6– 21:25 22:40 DUBLIN (FR) –2–4–6– 15:55 21:00
06:501 08:08 VILNIUS 07:46 09:22 1–3–––– 21:25 22:40 DUBLIN (FR) May 7 - Oct 7 1–3–––– 15:55 21:00
––––5–– 21:30 22:45 DUBLIN (FR) ––––5–– 16:00 21:05
08:00 09:40 VILNIUS 09:55 11:15
Tickets 10:47 12:27 VILNIUS 14:06 15:46 1–3–5–7 22:00 23:30 FRANKFURT/MAIN - Hahn (FR) 1–3–5–7 18:30 21:45
12:23 13:59 VILNIUS 15:10 16:28 1234567 12:00 12:40 LONDON - Stansted (FR) 1234567 07:00 11:35
Once the crowd has pushed you into a corner you are –2–4–6– 22:20 23:00 LONDON - Stansted (FR) –2–4–6– 17:20 21:55
15:00 16:27 VILNIUS 16:301 17:38 –––––6– 21:50 22:50 LIVERPOOL (FR) –––––6– 16:25 21:25
then required to punch your ticket in one of the boxes 16:47 18:32 VILNIUS 16:35 18:16 –2–4––– 22:30 23:30 LIVERPOOL (FR) –2–4––– 17:06 22:05
located within the state-owned bus or trolleybus in which 17:271 18:38 VILNIUS 17:501 19:07 1–3–5–7 14:40 14:55 STOCKHOLM - Skavsta (FR) until May 21 1–3–5–7 12:05 14:15
you are travelling. Ticket inspectors can be anyone from 18:40 20:26 VILNIUS 18:40 19:58 1–––––– 12:35 14:15 VÄXJÖ (2Q)
uniformed official-looking types to dowdy middle-aged 19:47 21:19 VILNIUS 19:27 21:02 –––4––– 13:25 15:05 VÄXJÖ (2Q) except May 17 and except June 29 - Sep 19
women with a man-purse. No matter their appearance any 20:301 21:42 VILNIUS 20:201 21:57 VÄXJÖ (2Q) except May 17, June 24, June 29 - Aug 19 1––4––– 10:30 12:10
excuse for an un-validated ticket or, worse yet, no ticket at 13:01 21:30 WARSAW 07:20 16:28 Airline codes: FR - Ryanair, 2Q - Stockholmsplanet. For details check at www.kaunasair.lt. Valid until Oct 28,
all will not be accepted. Get ready to pay the 20Lt fine. 1
Mon-Fri. 2007, unless indicated.

Kaunas In Your Pocket May 2007 - May 2008

40 Mail & Phones
Postal rates
Letters Postcards
Abroad (airmail) 1.70Lt 1.20Lt
Within Lithuania 1Lt 0.80Lt
Express mail
DHL Pievų 1, Karmėlava, tel. 39 94 65, fax 39 94 87,
ltinfo@dhl.com, www.dhl.lt. Q Open 08:30 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
EMS C-2, Laisvės 102, tel. 40 13 78, www.post.lt.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J
TNT Pievų 1, Karmėlava, tel. 75 82 00/8 800 25 222,
fax 75 82 01, www.tnt.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
UPS Chemijos 5a, tel. 35 05 05, fax 35 05 00, ups@
ups.lt, www.ups.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
ISPs
Bitė E-2, Laisvės 12, tel. +370 699 232 30, www.bite.
lt. Also at Laisvės 80. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Omnitel E-3, Laisvės 43, tel. 117/1533, info@omnitel.
net, www.omnitel.lt. Also at Laisvės 86. QOpen 09:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
Making the call
As if transfixed by the power of the eight Pagan Sab-
baths, or one of those stupid Magic 8 balls that comes
up with answers like ‘Reply hazy, try again’, Lithuania has
decided to chuck an 8 in front of every phone number
– except if you’re dialling within a city to a fixed line, or if
you’re dialling from outside the country. It’s like an area
code for the whole country. Got it? No, of course not
– because it’s stupid and it doesn’t make sense. Let’s
try to break it down:
Calling from a mobile
If you’ve got the full number, use the international format:
+370 123 412 34.
If you’ve been given a local mobile number, just throw
away the 8 and replace it with a +370. So 8123 412
34 becomes +370 123 412 34. If you’ve been given an
eight-digit mobile number that doesn’t start with 8, just
put the +370 in front of it.
Calling a fixed line gets a little more complicated
because you need to know in which city the number is
located. Then it’s +370 – City Code – number.
If you are given a number starting with 8, it must also
contain a city code, so you can just drop the 8 and
replace it with +370.
Calling from a fixed line
To call an international format number in Lithuania, such
as +370 123 412 34, replace the +370 with an 8.
If you’ve been given what looks like a shortish number
– five or six digits – you’ll need to know the city code, and
then dial 8 – City Code – number. To call an international
number, dial 00 – Country Code – number.
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Shopping 41
Just about everything you never needed can be found in Monton E-3, Laisvės 45, tel. 40 75 62, www.monton-
Laptop login shops along Laisvės and Vilniaus, and in the big tinpot fashion.com.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
tin-shed Akropolis shopping centre nearby. Souvenirs 11:00 - 16:00. JA
Getting online with your own computer is digital doddle in scatter stands along the pavement on Vilniaus, and during Sirena E-3, Mickevičiaus 17, tel. 32 14 03/+370 685
Kaunas. If you’re Wi-Fi enabled, you’re probably already the summer a large collection of stall traders on Laisvės, 631 04, www.sirena.lt. Handbags, accessories, gifts
online. There are many cafés, restaurants, hotels and selling everything from sunglasses to second-hand books. and sexy outfits for your mobile phone. Stylish, fun, and just
public spaces in Kaunas that are a part of a network the place to shop if you want to impress Wonder Woman.
of free wireless internet hotspots. To use Teo LT or QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
‘Zebra’ hotspots, just turn your Wi-Fi on, and choose Antiques JA
the appropriate network. We have, however, noticed Antikvariatas E-3, Mickevičiaus 17, tel. +370 618 766 Step Top E-2, Laisvės 38, tel. 32 40 05, stk@zygio-
that in Kaunas, the ‘Zebra’ Wi-Fi network is patchy and 74. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J batai.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
unreliable at the best of times, so check if you can get a Antikvaro Kolekcija A-3, Rotušės 29, tel. 22 94 89. 11:00 - 16:00. JA
connection before you order your coffee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. J
Antiquarius C-2, Šv. Gertrūdos 56, tel. 20 56 85,
galerija@vabolis.com, www.vabolis.com. QOpen 11:00 Food & Drink
Post - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Šilas B-2, Daukšos 45/37, tel. 42 39 82. The perfect
Central Post Office C-2, Laisvės 102, tel. 40 13 68, corner shop for the Old Town-bound self-catering community.
info.kaunas@post.lt, www.post.lt. A large hall selling QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. JA
all the usual things one would expect, plus pre-paid top-up Books Domus Solida C-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. 20 78 88/+370 656
cards for mobile phones. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 Baltų Lankų Knygynas E-4, Karaliaus Mindaugo 49, 238 03, gitana@aroma.lt. Teas, spices, coffee. QOpen
- 17:00. Closed Sun. J tel. 21 44 16. Head upstairs for Lithuanian-English dictionar- 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
ies, and other books to help you learn the somewhat chal- Geri Gėrimai D-2, Laisvės 80, tel. 40 71 87. Not
lenging local lingo. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA
Mobile phones Centrinis Knygynas D-2, Laisvės 81, tel. 22 95 72. Not
only do they stock more booze than you can shake an
Bitė E-2, Laisvės 12, tel. +370 699 232 30, www.bite. too many books in English, although they do stock a great
alcoholic at, this shop also has a currency exchange
kiosk inside. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
lt. Pick up a pre-paid Labas SIM card here. Also at Laisvės 80. range of postcards and maps, and as well as the weekly JA
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J English language Baltic Times. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat IKI B-2, Jonavos 3, tel. 20 03 78, www.iki.lt. Western-
Mikro Visata D-2, Laisvės 86, tel. 20 56 71. A small 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA style supermarket in Lithuania, these superstars stock
independent shop in the centre of the city, selling a host of Humanitas B-3, Vilniaus 11, tel. 20 95 81, zaneta@ absolutely everything imaginable to eat. Also at Kovo 11-
phones and gadets at reasonable prices. QOpen 09:00 humanitas.lt, www.humanitas.lt. A big selection of books osios 22, tel. 45 19 44. Lukšio 60, tel. 31 34 53. Varnių
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J in many languages. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. 38a, tel. 36 17 38. Veiverių 150, tel. 39 16 28. Šiaurės
Omnitel E-3, Laisvės 43, tel. 117/1533, info@omnitel. Closed Sun. JA 91 (Eiguliai district), tel. 31 34 53. Žemaičių plentas 23,
net, www.omnitel.lt. Likewise, this is the place to get your Knygų Alėja E-3, Laisvės 29, tel. 22 29 86, knygu- tel. 37 70 35. Savanorių 111, tel. 20 07 31. Raudondvario
Extra pre-paid SIM card. Also at Laisvės 86. QOpen 09:00 aleja@sviesa.lt, www.pegasas.eu. A cool bookshop 166, tel. 38 50 70. Kuršių 44, tel. 37 77 90, Vilniaus 56,
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J on two floors. Find the English material at the top of the tel. 20 73 97. Didžioji 98, tel. 32 86 80. Baltų 81, tel. 75
TELE 2 D-3, Kęstučio 37, tel. 22 74 57, tele2@tele2. stairs. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed 08 98. Jotvingių 15, V. Krėvės 57. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
lt, www.tele2.lt. Also at Laisvės 27, tel. 32 01 01, A. Sun. JA JA
Mickevičiaus 13-20, tel. 20 70 17, open 09:00-18:00, Sat Pegasas D-2, Laisvės 75, tel. 42 84 69, fax 42 84 70, Maxima E-2, Laisvės 60, tel. 20 34 91, www.maxima.
10:00-16:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 pegasas.centrinis@sviesa.lt, www.pegasas.eu. A new, lt. Also at Pramonės 16, tel. 35 15 52. Savanorių 255, tel. 30
- 16:00. Closed Sun. J modern bookshop with friendly staff and a small selection 74 30. Baltijos 20a, tel. 32 81 17. Demokratų 50, tel. 36 29 01.
of English books. Also at Vilniaus 43, tel. 32 85 38. Open Juozapavičiaus 68, tel. 34 23 82. Kęstučio/Daukanto 5/55,
10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-18:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 09:00
Public internet access - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
tel. 22 83 32. Savanorių 375, tel. 41 01 75. Studentų 16, tel.
73 07 86. Stulginskio 63, tel. 36 32 61. Vytauto 32, tel. 20 63
Kavinė Internetas B-3, Vilniaus 24, tel. 40 74 27, info@
cafenet.ot.lt, www.cafenet.ot.lt. The biggest and friendliest
one in town, and not only that, this is real café too. So whilst one Clothes & Accessories Flowers & Plants
is keeping in touch with the folks back home one can also eat Baltman E-3, Laisvės 49, tel. 75 00 42, kaunas@balt-
dainty cakes and imbibe beers and other light refreshments. man.lt, www.baltman.eu. It is not surprising that more Flowers can be bought at most supermarkets (even the
QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. J and more of these shops are opening in Vilnius, Kaunas and tiny ones that aren’t really super at all) as well as a few
Klaipėda. The locally-designed and elegant clothes here specialist stores dotted around town. The Flower Market,
however, is probably your best bet for a bright bunch and
Telephone codes are geared towards both men and women. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA a spot of haggling or arguing with linguistically incom-
Benetton E-3, Laisvės 67, tel. 32 23 95, fax 32 40 90. petent sellers.Flowers should be given in odd numbers.
Alytus 315 Klaipėda 46 Šilalė 449 Bunches of even numbers of flowers, especially lilies
The United Colours of Kaunas. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA and chrysanthemums, signify death. (Yours, if you’re
Anykščiai 381 Kretinga 445 Šilutė 441
City Sport D-2, Laisvės 72, tel. 32 32 48. Clothing and not careful.)Don’t give yellow flowers to old ladies, as
Birštonas 319 Marijampolė 343 Švenčionys 387 footwear for the sporty clubbing community. QOpen 10:00 they symbolise jealously. (The flowers, not the ladies...
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA although... oh, never mind.) Red carnations are symbols
Biržai 319 Molėtai 383 Tauragė 446 City Woman E-3, Laisvės 58, tel. 20 91 36, salonas. of communism, and should also be avoided.
Druskininkai 313 Neringa/ 469 Telšiai 444 kaunas@sritis.lt. A large, elegant clothing shop where you
Nida can find both casual and evening wear for a price. QOpen Flowers E-2, Laisvės 32b, tel. 32 35 37. A good
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA selection of potted plants of all varieties, plus fresh
Elektrėnai 528 Palanga 460 Trakai 528 Danija E-2, Laisvės 37, tel. 20 53 71, www.danija.lt. flowers daily. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Also at Laisvės 59, tel. 20 03 27. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun. J
Ignalina 386 Panevėžys 45 Ukmergė 340
Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
Jonava 349 Pasvalys 451 Utena 389
Kaunas 37 Plungė 448 Vilnius 5
 The Kaunas telephone code is +370 37
Kėdainiai 347 Šiauliai 41 Visaginas 386
May 2007 - May 2008
42 Shopping
58. J. Baršausko 66, tel. 75 92 00. V. Krėvės 14b, tel. 33 14 52.
Šarkuvos 1a, tel. 37 77 73. Pramonės 29, tel. 40 51 11. Veiverių
150b, tel. 32 86 04. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. JA
Rimi E-2, Donelaičio 44, tel. 20 44 83, www.rimi.lt. Also
at Partizanų 134, tel. 49 01 41. Prancūzų 81, tel. 75 42 03.
V. krėvės 43a, tel. 40 97 60. Lukšio 70, tel. 30 84 20. Taikos
81, tel. 49 01 30. Islandijos 32, tel. 30 84 46. Savanorių 346,
tel. 30 15 31. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. JA
Gifts & Souvenirs
Kauno Langas B-3, Valančiaus 5, tel. 20 55 38,
k.langas@kaunas.omnitel.net, w w w.klangas.lt.
Gifts and souvenirs galore, including art and ceramics.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
JA
Mažoji Indija (Little India) B-3, Vilniaus 56, tel. 20
18 11. A large cellar stuffed with exotic goods from the
developing world, including furniture, sculptures, clothes,
jewellery and batiks. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Suvenyrai B-3, Vilniaus 32, tel. 22 51 26, info@am-
berhouse.lt, www.amberhouse.lt. Amber, linen, wooden
souvenirs and other cute souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JA
Household goods
Plaza Taikos 141, tel./fax 40 78 60, info@plaza.lt,
www.plaza.lt. Furniture. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Senukai Draugystės 8k, tel. 30 49 94, www.senukai.lt.
Also at Jonavos 62, tel. 20 87 15. Islandijos 32 (Mega), tel. 30
40 50. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. A
Tomasella Jonavos 262, tel. 33 27 36, dzereta@
kaunas.omnitel.net, www.tomasella.it. The best way to
spruce up your newly purchased apartment or rental property.
Get everything you need from the kitchen to the bedroom.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Music
Midiaudio E-2, Laisvės 26, tel. 22 32 88, sales@midi-
audio.com, www.midiaudio.com. Musical instruments old
and new, plus a small stock of spares from guitar strings to
clarinet pads. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Muzikos Bomba D-2, Sapiegos 3, tel. 32 14 47. Re-
corded music. If they don`t have it in stock they`ll happily
order it for you. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Shopping centres
Akropolis E-4, Karaliaus Mindaugo 49, www.akropolis.
lt. Opened a few days before we went to print, when it was
swarming with people despite the fact that it wasn’t quite
finished. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA
Mega Islandijos 32, tel. 23 90 00/23 90 11, info@
mega.lt, www.mega.lt. Notable for an enormous aquarium
which is about the only thing you can’t buy in this big centre. If
you want to go to the shopping maul, hop on bus 38 heading
north on Vytauto, or flag down any of the microbuses that
have a ‘Mega’ sign in the window. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Molas M-4, Baršausko 66a, tel. 45 14 41, fax 40 95
38, info@pcmolas.lt, www.pcmolas.lt. Shops, a couple
of restaurants and a bowling alley. Big enough to ensure you
can get what you want, probably, but small enough to ensure
you don’t get lost while getting it. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00
with some exceptions.
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Absolutely everything you ever thought you might need to
know about the city on the river. From accountants to key
cutters. You do the math and we unlock the doors.
Accountants
KPMG Lietuva Vytauto 12 (Vilnius), tel. +370 521 026
00, fax 210 26 59, vilnius@kpmg.lt, www.kpmg.com.
QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Scandinavian Accounting & Consulting D-2,
Ožeškienės 18, tel. 32 08 06, fax 75 00 84, sac@sac.lt,
www.sac.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Banks
Ūkio Bankas D-2, Maironio 25, tel. 30 13 01/30 14
70, fax 32 31 88, ub@ub.lt, www.ub.lt. QOpen 08:00
- 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
DNB Nord B-2, Jonavos 3, www.dnbnord.lt. Also at
Laisvės 86, open 08:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen
Shades of fashion
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J
Hansabank B-3, Vilniaus 13, tel. 1884, info@hansa.lt,
Urmo bazė Pramonės 16, tel. 35 06 62, fax 45 27 24, www.hansa.lt. American Express and Thomas Cook travel-
urmas@urmas.net, www.urmas.net. This place is more a lers’ cheques accepted. Western Union money transfers are
market than a shopping centre, and therefore still a bit wacky.
Walk around with a big fish flopping out of your backpack, fill
also available. Also at Laisvės 79. Open 08:00-19:00, Sat
09:00-15:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
a famous fashion label plastic bag with clowns’ trousers, and
you’ll fit right in. Like an old-fashioned market, it’s a social
Sat, Sun. J
SEB Vilniaus Bankas D-2, Laisvės 82/17, tel. 30 70
kaleidoscope, but like a modern shopping centre, it’s clean 70, fax 30 71 11, www.seb.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
and convenient. You don’t have to spend money to enjoy a Closed Sat, Sun. J
visit here, but you probably will anyway. From the Laisvės-
Savanorių intersection (C-2), take trolleybus 15 eastward
and get off at Dainavos Poliklinika (the 11th stop). QOpen Barbers & Salons
10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Fama D-2, Ožeškienės 29, tel. 20 88 25, fama_nova@
yahoo.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Water words Primadona D-3, Daukanto 17, tel. 22 61 62, info@
primadona.lt, www.primadona.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Hello – Laba diena Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J
Salon+ Islandijos 32 (Mega), tel. 23 90 99, mega@
Good morning (until about 10:00) – Labas rytas salonplus.lt, www.salonplus.lt. Bright zesty salons that
can clip, frizz, colour or style, and leave you feeling all shiny
Good evening – Labas vakaras and new.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Good bye – Viso gero Sarma Style C-3, Gruodžio 31, tel. 32 44 41, edita.
vilkeliene@bch.lt, www.sarmastyle.lt. QOpen 08:00
Hi – Labas - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Please – Prašome
Business connections
Thank you – Ačiū Baltoskandija K-3, Basanavičiaus 5, tel. +370 686
Excuse me / sorry – Atsiprašau 333 88, fax 20 91 64, info@baltoscandia.lt, www.
baltoscandia.lt.   311 14, fax 42 51 20, kaunas@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.
Business Advisory Centre (Verslo Konsultacinis
Yes – Taip
Centras) C-2, Savanorių 1, tel. 22 47 16/32 21 34, fax
No – Ne 32 24 81, verslas@pub.vdu.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Cheers! – Į sveikatą! Kaunas Chamber of Commerce, Industry and
Monday – Pirmadienis Crafts F-2, Donelaičio 8, tel. 22 92 12, fax 20 83 30,
chamber@chamber.lt, www.chamber.lt. QOpen 08:00
Tuesday – Antradienis - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Wednesday –Trečiadienis
Conference facilities
Thursday – Ketvirtadienis
Žaliakalnio viešbutis D-2, Savanorių 66, tel. 32 14
Friday – Penktadienis 12, fax 73 37 69, zaliakalnis@greenhillhotel.lt, www.
greenhillhotel.lt. Three halls for 10-60 persons. J
Saturday – Šeštadienis Best Western Santaka C-3, Gruodžio 21, tel. 30 27
22/30 27 02, fax 30 27 00, marketing@santaka.lt,
Sunday – Sekmadienis www.santaka.lt. Three modern rooms for between 16
and 200. J
directory 43
Business Leaders Centre E-2, Donelaičio 62/53,
tel. 75 27 60, fax 75 27 59, blc@pii.lt, www.blc.lt. Four
modern rooms up to 160. Q PJ
Daniela E-3, Mickevičiaus 28, tel. 32 15 05/+370
614 969 09, fax 32 16 32, konferencija@danielahotel.
lt, www.danielahotel.lt. Conference facilities for up to
160. Q PJ
Daugirdas A-3, T. Daugirdo 4, tel. 46 54 54, manager@
daugirdas.lt, www.daugirdas.lt. Conference facilities for up
to 110 persons. Q PJ
Hermis Savanorių 404, tel. 49 03 00, fax 49 03 01,
ruta@portofino.lt, www.hermis.net. Two conference
halls seating up to 40. Q P
Kaunas D-2, Laisvės 79, tel. 75 08 70, fax 75 08
51, kaunas@kaunashotel.lt, www.kaunashotel.lt. All
modern facilities and equipment for succesful meeting up
to 200. Q PJ
Perkūno Namai K-4, Perkūno 61, tel. 32 02 30, fax 32
36 78, hotel@perkuno-namai.lt, www.perkuno-namai.lt.
Two conference halls seating up to 50.
Sfinksas K-3, Aukštaičių 55/Kudirkos 19a, tel. 30 19
82, fax 30 19 83, hotelsfinx@takas.lt, www.sfinksas.
lt. Conference hall with 60 places. Q P
Health
Bendroji Medicinos Praktika M-1, Savanorių 423, tel.
31 36 65/31 27 68, info@daktaras.lt, www.daktaras.
lt. Surgical, dental, gynaecological, and general medicine
services. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. A
Vis Vitalis (Dentists) D-2, Laisvės 76-10, tel. 74 74
74, info@visvitalis.lt, www.visvitalis.lt. All your dental
needs and more, including a one-year warranty to all work
undertaken. Also at Savanorių 241, tel. 79 88 11, fax. 79 88
88. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Insurance
Lietuvos Draudimas D-2, Donelaičio 62, tel. 22 13 08,
fax 40 78 24, www.ldr.lt. Also at Savanorių 443a, tel. 39
51 40. Savanorių 172, tel. 73 22 84. Krėvės 43, tel. 71 29 18.
Kuršių 1, tel. 32 86 15. Vytauto 32, tel. 42 83 95.QOpen
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
PZU Lietuva F-3, Vytauto 87, tel. 22 29 84, www.pzu.lt.
Also at Savanorių 363a, tel. 41 27 91. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00,
Fri 08:00 - 15:45, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Interpreters
Litinterp F-3, Gedimino 28-7, tel. 22 87 18/+370 685
com. Interpreters and translators. Reliable, quick service.
Legal documents, notarisation upon request. QOpen 08:30
- 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Lawyers
Abišala & Partners C-2, Mickevičiaus 29-4, tel. 40 99
00, fax 40 99 01, abisala@abisala.com, www.abisala.
com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Advokato Pūko Kontora D-2, Donelaičio 71-2, tel. 20
56 66, fax 32 19 19, gipus@kaunas.omnitel.net. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Kauno Advokatų Kontora C-3, Gruodžio 16, tel. 22
51 38, fax 22 57 97. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. J
Urbonienės Juridinė Kontora C-3, Kanto 24-13, tel./
fax 22 47 93, ginteu@takas.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
May 2007 - May 2008
44 directory
Media
Kauno Diena J-5, Vytauto 27, tel. 30 22 50, fax 42 34
04, redakcija@kaunodiena.lt, www.kaunodiena.lt. Daily
newspaper, except Sunday.
Lietuvos Rytas Gedimino 12a (Vilnius), tel. +370 527
436 00, daily@lrytas.lt, www.lrytas.lt. The most popular
daily newspaper in Lithuania (but not in Kaunas, where Kauno
Diena is the one) with comprehensive entertainment listings
and classifieds.
Noriu E-3, Kęstučio 23a, tel. 20 08 98, fax 32 10 48,
reklama@noriu.lt, www.noriu.lt. Three times a week you
can flip through `I Want` to find what you are looking for be it
an apartment or a maid. Also publish Noriu Auto (I Want a Car)
Monday, Wednesday and Friday, print run about 10,000. J
The Baltic Times Raugyklos 15-302 (Vilnius), tel./
fax +370 521 215 45, lilija@baltictimes.com, www.
baltictimes.com. The Baltic’s only true English language
newspaper is published every Thursday.
Officials
Kaunas Municipality D-2, Laisvės 96, tel. 42 26 08,
fax 42 54 52, savivaldybe@kaunas.sav.lt, www.kaunas.
lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Photocopying
Fotocentras D-2, Laisvės 51, tel. 22 15 12, www.
fotocentras.lt. Also at Laisvės 110, tel. 32 40 94. Open
09:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. Laisvės 51, tel. 22 45 95.
Open 09:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-15:00. Laisvės 86, tel. 20
84 96. Open 09:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 09:00
- 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J
Real estate
Ober-Haus D-3, Kęstučio 56, tel. 33 71 01, fax 32 32 44,
kaunas@ober-haus.lt, www.ober-haus.com. Simply the best.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Sports
Ąžuolynas (Sports club) K-4, Sporto 3, tel. 30 10
10, info@assc.lt, www.assc.lt. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00,
Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. AD
Amazon Gym D-2, Laisvės 51a, tel. 32 35 87, fax 32 34
87, info@amazongym.lt, www.amazongym.lt. A very cen-
trally-located place, where the seriously health-conscious can
design their own personal fitness plans if they wish, and even
get some nutritional advice along the way. QOpen 07:15
- 21:30, Fri 07:15 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:30. JD
Conan Gym D-2, Laisvės 30a, tel. 32 11 77, fax 32
11 44, info@conangym.lt, www.conangym.lt. As well
as offering the Lithuanian standard that is aerobics, come
for use of the gym, sauna and/or swimming pool. QOpen
07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. J
Elnias Golf Club Didžiosios Lapės (15km from Kaunas).
The only golf course in Kaunas is a nine-hole one, and those
who’ve played a round on it say that it’s quite a challenge. A 19th
hole (or in this case a 10th hole) can also be found here.
Impuls Baltų 16, tel. 75 50 12/75 50 13, oaze@impuls.
lt, www.impuls.lt. The machines glimmer with newness
while the bodies shine with sweat. A wonderful new gym for
weights, aerobics, fitness and water sports - jacuzzi, Turkish
and Finnish saunas, aromatherapy, ice cabin, pool with cas-
cades, massages, solarium, martial arts room, VIP sauna and
lounge with a nicest possible staff. After refreshing your body
guests can enjoy bars and bowling alleys in their night club.
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. ADC
Kaunas In Your Pocket
hill of crosses 45
Kaunas Acrobatic Flying Club Veiverių 132, tel. 39 14
00, fax 39 15 53, aeroklubas@takas.lt, www.aerokaunas. Getting there
lt. Located in the small Dariaus ir Girėno airport, learn to fly a glider
or light aircarft. Pleasure trips are also available. This is also the The Hill of Crosses (Kryžių Kalnas) is 12km out of
place to come to parachute. Unfortunately, all the necessary Šiauliai toward Riga on the A12. To get there, first of all
information on their website is in Lithuanian. get yourself to Šiauliai. From there, take a bus toward
Kaunas Parachuting Club Veiverių 132, tel. +370 Joniškis from the bus station (there are eight or nine
698 105 10, mail@skydive.lt, www.skydive.lt. Q Open busses each day from 8am to 5pm). Get off at the large
Sat, Sun from 10:00 sign marked Kryžių Kalnas (the Domantai stop) and
Ledo Arena (Ice arena) F-1, Aušros 42c, tel. 33 06 walk a further two kilometres up the side road. The last
20, fax 33 06 75, ledoarena@zebra.lt, www.ledoarena. bus to take you back to town will be at 5:30pm. If you
lt. A bit out of the centre and nothing fancy, but good fun have a car, hop in and drive north on the A12 (Tilžės). A
all the same. QOpen Closed Mon. Opening hours erratic. huge sign marks the point where you need to turn right
Closed during summer. J and drive down the side road, laughing at all the bus
Lokės Pėda Lokėnėliai village, Jonava region, tel. +370 passengers who have to walk this stretch. A taxi from
699 211 44, info@lokespeda.lt, www.lokespeda.lt. An Šiauliai costs about 20Lt, and most drivers will be happy
outdoor adventure with a series of dangly, wobbly obstacles to wait while you look around so they can also pick up
strung between tree tops. Test your courage, balance and the return fare.
strength as you work your way between high platforms. You’ll From Kaunas To Kaunas
start wearing a safety harness, and end up wearing a big grin. Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
Highlights are the zip-wire ‘flights’ (one being 220m across a
river valley) and the beautiful forest setting. At 40Lt for three
TRAINS
hours - more than enough unless you’re Spiderman - it’s a 06:11 18:30
5,6
ŠIAULIAI 18:50 5,6
21:11
BUSES
bargain. To get there take the A6 toward Ukmerge and look
05:20 08:15
1
ŠIAULIAI 04:00 1
06:50
for the sign about 5km past Jonava. You can also get a bus 06:001 08:55 ŠIAULIAI 07:55 10:40
to Jonava and a taxi from there. 06:40 09:35 ŠIAULIAI 12:05 15:00
07:25 10:20 ŠIAULIAI 13:10 16:05
Useful addresses 08:35 11:30
10:00 12:55
ŠIAULIAI
ŠIAULIAI
14:10
15:00
17:05
17:55
Švaros Centras (Dry cleaners) M-2, Taikos 60a, 11:053 14:00 ŠIAULIAI 15:303 18:25
tel. 79 75 32. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. 13:152 15:50 ŠIAULIAI 15:50 18:45
Closed Sun. Count the crosses 16:00 18:45 ŠIAULIAI 17:00 19:55
Avalynės Taisykla (Shoe repair) B-3, Vilniaus 17, 16:40 19:35 ŠIAULIAI 17:45 20:40
tel. 22 03 25. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:30 - 15:00. Kaunas is pretty close (120km as the crow flies) to Šiauliai, a 17:50 20:45 ŠIAULIAI 18:352 21:10
Closed Sun. J town that has become somewhat famous for the nearby Hill 1
Mon-Fri, Sat, Fri, Sat, Sun, Sun, Fri, Sat.
2 3 5 6
Of Crosses. This mound festooned with countless crosses
Kaunas Sea (sort of) is actually smaller than many guidebooks suggest, but more
impressive in its detail than any words could convey.
may refer to crosses planted in memory of victims of the
Among all its other remarkable oddoties, Kaunas has a You actually have to go there to experience the feeling of 1831 rebellion against the Russians, whose burial places
hydro-electric power plant, built when the Nemunas river getting in among all those crosses. Sure, they’re impressive were unknown by loved ones. The number of crosses swelled
was dammed in 1960. A couple of villages were drowned
as a result but it wasn’t all good news. Turns out that the
to look at from afar, but once you start meandering along the
little paths that weave all over the hill you become lost in a
after another rebellion in 1863. In the early 1900s, when
we next have a record
hydro plant struggles to provide a mere two percent of strange multi-layered depth. There are, of course, many big to refer to, there were
the nation’s electricity. The most noticable benefit of the crosses. These, however, are crowded and often crawling about 150 crosses.
hydro dam, however, is that it created the Kaunas Sea with smaller crosses. These again are dripping with tiny Numbers dropped a
(Kauno Marios). Take trolleybus 9 to the end of the line crosses and rosaries. There are probably monotheistic bit after the First World
to get there. Of course it’s not really a sea at all. More a microbes that have planted invisibly small crosses here. It’s War (we don’t know why
big lake. But it’s big enough to host all sorts of sea-like crosses upon crosses upon crosses. On a hill. – cross casualty?) but
fun. You can wander around the area surrounding the were up to around 400
Kaunas Yacht Club, watch people falling off windsurfers Those who are inclined to pay attention to detail will notice by the late 1930s. Then
or taking sailing lessons, and stop for a bite (if you ever there are names, dates and often messages on most of the things really took off.
get served) at the waterside café. crosses – sometimes carefully crafted, sometimes simply
To get more involved get in touch with the nice people hand written. Some crosses offer gratitude or hope. Others B y 19 61, wh en th e
below for various forms of boaty fun. You can rent a yacht convey wishes for world peace, the health of grandchildren, Soviet government of
or catamaran, or throw your leg over a PWC (jet-powered shorter queues at the bank and, presumably, God knows the time decided that
water craft) that can zoom along at up to 100km/h, carry what else. Each cross has a story to tell, and there is religious sentiment had
three people and even tow a skiier. something about being in among all those stories, all those gone a bit too far, they
hopes and dreams, and all that clutter of compassion and had over 5,000 crosses
Arum Gimbutienė s 35, tel. +370 617 66 4 concern, that is both bewildering and moving. to contend with. This
55, nuoma@baracuda.lt, w w w.baracuda.lt. they did with the aid of
PWC rental: 1 hr-425Lt, 2hrs-685Lt, 6 hrs-944Lt. No one owns or runs the Hill of Crosses. There are no tickets a bulldozer. In an attempt to stop crosses reappearing, the
Catamaran (for up to 12 people) rental: 1st hour - 180Lt, to buy or opening hours and the ‘gift shop’ consists of people area was guarded by the KGB, rumoured to be infected with
112Lt/h thereafter. Excursion in Kaunas Sea - 180 Lt, who sell things, including crosses that you can buy and various ‘epidemics’, and there were even discussions about
boat trip to Rumšiškės - 280Lt, to Birštonas - 740Lt. then instantly deposit on the hill yourself, from temporary flooding it. But the crosses kept reappearing.
market type stalls. It is just kind of there, and has been for
Naktigonėlė Naktigonės 3, tel. +370 687 426 05, a very long time. Despite all the restrictions, the bulldozers had another 1,200
kazysjachta@one.lt. Cruise around on a lovely yacht crosses to crush in 1975. Thus the Hill of Crosses now is not
and pretend you’re in the Bahamas. 100Lt per hour. There are claims that the first crosses were planted in the just a site of religious significance, but a bristling testament
Middle Ages, but the first written record is from 1850, and to Lithuanian defiance and independence.
May 2007 - May 2008
46 rumšiškes
St. Florian – making sure the place doesn’t burn down
The open-air museum of Lithuania, known as Rumšiškės,
is a collection of traditional old homes and buildings
salvaged from around the country. The museum, covering
nearly 175 hectares (435 acres), hopes to give locals and
foreigners alike a glimpse of what life and work was like
in Lithuania nearly a century ago. History really comes to
life when the museum hosts festivals. There are horse-
ploughing competitions, craft markets and all manner of
other time foolery. Summer and autumn are the best times
to visit. Highlights are Shrove Tuesday (June 23 in 2007),
Assumption Day (August 15) and the craft days (September
28-29). Craftsmen and artisans, often dressed in traditional
costume, can be seen at work throughout the park during
these holiday weekends.
The park itself is divided, like Lithuania, into four distinct
regions. Before descending down onto the footbridge, check
out the man-made Kaunas Sea (Kauno marios) to your left
along which one can see the Žemaitija area of the park. To
the left is the Dzūkija, Aukštaitija, and Suvalkija areas. Each
of these areas not only boasts buildings from each region,
but the flora surrounding the buildings is indigenous to each
specific area. At the other end of the footbridge find the map
of the park and an oak obelisk. The little bird on top is there
to point you in the right direction of the tour, so follow the
beak and turn right.
Dzūkija
The first of the homesteads depicts the area of Dzūkija. On
your way there keep an eye out for the stone along the river
with a large hollowed-out centre. These ‘plates’ were used
in pagan times and most ethnographers believe sacrifices
to deities were placed inside of them. The Dzūkija area, in
agricultural terms, is known mostly for its poor soil. Luckily the
surrounding forests often provided for the people living there.
The first house on the tour is typical of where a poor farmer
would have lived about a century ago. To the right, find a barn
where plays and concerts are often held. As you continue up
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Fully funcional yurt – huddle inside
the hill, the wooden structure one finds is a mushroom-drying
facility. Further along is the Dzūkija village with its collection
of homes. Make sure to check out the bathhouse with its
stone stove. This style of stove once replaced by clay led to
the cooking area being separated from the living quarters
rather than heating them. Back on the main road, to the right
in a forest glade there is an eight-metre high oak sculpture,
commemorating the deportees of 1941 who perished on
their way to the Laptev Sea, a section of the Arctic Ocean.
Adjacent find a fully functional yurt, a collapsible shelter
similar to those used by deportees to afford at least a little
protection from wind and cold.
Aukštaitija
The next area of the park consists of a 19th-century
homestead typical of the Aukštaičiai region. Inside the
homestead, besides the living areas, you can look at
equipment for brewing beer, a cowshed and two barns. Up
on the hill, note the working full-size windmill. The handful of
houses that make up the rest of the village all have small
details of note. However, the do-not-miss parts are the large
manor house, decorated throughout with wood-carvings and
the adjacent barn with straw-woven walls. The gravel road
Aukštaitija – step inside
Well worth a visit in winter
leading out of the village leads to Račkiškė Chapel, built in
1775, which is surrounded by roadside shrines (Koplytstulpis
and Rūpintojėlis) and crosses which museum officials
were able to rescue from every corner of the country. The
monument in the churchyard is dedicated to Lithuanians
deported to Kolyma, Russia. One of the most charming parts
of the museum is up ahead in the forested region where a
few wooden bee-keeping structures (complete with anti-bear-
theft devices) are in place.
Suvalkija
As you continue on through the park, the red-tiled roofs
hail the beginning of the Suvalkija region. Here you will find
a 20th-century middle-class peasants’ farm consisting of
five buildings. The homestead is actually more reminiscent
of the 19th century, but the home entertainment system
is cetainly a bit more up to date. In 1935-1939, some
peasants could afford such luxury. Suvalkija was the first
region in Lithuania where serfdom was abolished, and as
the area also has good soil, locals soon found themselves in
posession of independant wealth, radios and gramaphones.
Inside the barns the large round wooden machinery is
called a ruzvelkis, which used to be driven by horses and
connected to a thresher so as to break the flax. Also of note
in this area are the numerous flowerbeds surrounding each
of the homesteads, which add a colorful touch. Outside of
the village there is another windmill and a building where
linseed oil is pressed.
Žemaitija
Next on the agenda is the region of Žemaitija where the
homesteads are by far the biggest in the park. Numerous
granaries and barns accompany the homes, which for the
most part have stoves with chimneys connected in the
centre of the building. The houses here tend to have less
flourishes to them, but to be of a sturdy construction. Inside
the Gintališkės homestead toward the end of the area one
can find a clog maker’s workshop. Also of note is at the end
of the village stands a numas, a house believed to have been
used during the Middle Ages. The ceiling consists of twigs
and clay and the interior is dominated by an open hearth. It
Rumšiškes 47
is the only one of its kind left in the country. The last part of
the tour ends with a re-creation of a small Lithuanian town.
The town is still being developed as it were, but at press time
had its own square complete with a statue of St. Florian, the
patron saint of firefighters, a schoolhouse, an inn and a few
more buildings under re-construction. Make sure to duck
inside the inn to find a truly unique collection of buggies and
carriages. At the weekend (and sometimes during the week)
you can usually find an artisan hard at work in one of the few
completed buildings.
Suvalkija – Lithuanian luxury
Open Air Museum of Lithuania (Lietuvos Liaudies
Buities Muziejus Rumšiškėse) 25km east of Kaunas
just off the A1 highway, tel. +370 346 473 92. QNote
that while the park itself is open 10:00 - 18:00 every day
except Mondays, the many museums, exhibitions, shops,
cafés and other attractions inside the park can only be
relied upon to maintain the same opening hours from May
to September inclusive.
Getting There
By car Take the A1 towards Vilnius. About 25km east of
Kaunas is the turn-off for Rumšiškės. Follow the signs to
the park.
By public transport Buses leave from Kaunas bus station,
some going straight to the museum. Alternatively take any
Vilnius-bound bus, get off at the Rumšiškės stop, and walk
the final 2km.
May 2007 - May 2008
48 Birštonas
If Birštonas was any more relaxing they’d have to put it
in a jar and sell it under the counter. You’d have to have a
prescription to go there. And, while it’s certainly therapeu-
tic, it does maintain enough of a pulse to leave you fresh
and tingly and well enough to drive home slowly, safely
and serenely while more stressed-out people flip their lids
behind you trying to get past.
Basically, the little town is nestled in an elbow of the Ne-
munas, and hence affords plenty of river views and lovely
riverside walks. It’s the sort of place where you can suck
in lungfuls of clean air and feel all zippedy and healthy
even if you smoke a pack a day and had a hard night. Of
course with such beautiful natural surroundings, and some
magical local mud to boot, it’s not surprising that a bit of a
SPA resort has developed in this gorgeous little town. So
in addition to all the outdoorsy stuff that you’ll read about
in these pages, you can get bathed, massaged, buried in
mud, irrigated, exfoliated, elongated (probably) and other-
wise de-exasperated.
What’s more, in the past couple of years, some rather fine
hotels and restaurants have popped up, making Birštonas
an ideal destination for a romantic weekend. You can also
often see lots of wedding parties queueing for photos
at the top of the hill that overlooks the town. The beaus
and brides there may act as either encouragement or
contraceptive during a naughty weekend, but they’re
certainly pretty.
Then there’s the option of winter sports. Skiing, snow-
boarding falling over and so on – it’s all do-able and
delightful here in Birštonas. So, whatever the season,
Kaunas In Your Pocket
 The Birštonas
telephone code is +370 319
this little nook of a town has plenty of options and is well
worth a day trip or a weekend break – especially when you
consider that it’s so close to Kaunas.
Getting there
If you’re a fish, finding your way to Birštonas is a doddle.
Just swim along the Nemunas until it goes all wiggly and
you get dizzy, and you’re there. If you’re a person, it’s a bit
more tricky.
Unfortunately – or fortunately, depending on your point of
view – someone seems to have decided to hide this delightful
little town. There is only about one road sign that points to
Birštonas, and it’s pretty much in Birštonas.
Still, try as they might, hiding Birštonas won’t do any good
because we’re going to tell you how to get there.
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre B-2,
J a u n i m o 3 , t e l . /f a x + 3 7 0 3 1 9
6 57 4 0, t u r i z m a s@ B i r š t o n a s . l t .
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun.
From Kaunas
By car Pretend you’ve gone completely mad and want to
go to Warsaw. You’ll drive out on the A5, heading toward a
place called Marijampolė. As you haven’t gone completely
mad, however, you’ll turn off onto route 130 pretty quickly
and follow signs to Prienai. Once you pass through that town,
take the A16 toward Vilnius. Now you’re getting pretty close
to Birštonas and – lo and behold! – you’ll see a sign.
By bus If that all sounds too complicated, you’ll be pleased
to know that buses depart from Kaunas every 30 minutes
on the hour and half-hour from 06:00 to 20:00. Couldn’t
be simpler.
As you drive into town, don’t be put off by the rambling great
monstrosity of a building on the left that looks like a crashed
space station. Just carry on. The bus station is not much more
than a car park. It serves its purpose and nothing more. On
the opposite side of the road and a little way to your right is
the Tourist Informaiton Centre. If you just want to explore the
town on foot, turn left and explore away.
Where to stay
Audenis B-1, Lelijų 3, tel. +370 319 613 00, fax +370
319 613 01, info@audenis.lt, www.audenis.lt. It relies
a bit on that spartan style that comes from flat-packed
furniture, but it is affordable, comfortable, and the best
option for those who are not in the mood for cultural or
nocturnal adventure. All rooms have a television, minibar,
a private bathroom, and even an internet connection.
This hotel is also home to a nice restaurant which will
come as a great relief after a day of outdoorsy adventure.
Q9 rooms (1 single 120Lt, 6 doubles 170 - 190Lt, 2 suites
190 - 230Lt, 1 apartment 250 - 270Lt). THAULGKW
hhhh
Birštono Nemuno Vingis C-3, Turistų 20, tel. +370
698 020 17/+370 611 230 16, aldona@kortas.lt, www.
kortas.lt. It’s over the river from the main town and there’s
no bridge. (Just something to be aware of.) Accommodation
is pretty basic, but the all-in-one nature of the place (pool,
restaurant, lodgings), not to mention the beautiful natural sur-
roundings, are the main attractions. Oh - and the four-wheel
motorbikes help too. Q Rooms for three to five people 15
- 30 Lt/night.
Sofijos rezidencija B-1, Jaunimo 6, tel. +370 319
452 00, fax +370 319 452 01, info@sofijosrezidencija.
lt, www.sofijosrezidencija.lt. Not in the best location,
but so crammed full of over-the-top oppulence that you’ll
probably never want to leave anyway. Lots of gilding, flow-
ing fabrics, rococo furniture, plush cushions with images of
birštonas 49
angels leaning on their forearms and other romantic blah. Not
just the newest hotel in town, but also the ultimate naughty
nest in this region. We hope the doors are soundproof.
14 rooms (13 doubles 230Lt, 1 apar tmen t 360Lt).
ARULGKDC
Sonata A-2, Algirdo 34, tel./fax +370 319 658 25,
seklytele@sonatahotel.lt, www.sonatahotel.lt. The
middle of a forest might be the last place you’d expect
to find deep, plush carpets, chiffon curtains and a gleam-
ing spa bath. But that’s exactly what you’ll find here. The
rooms offer a modest and elegant style that belies the
forest hide-away location. You can ponder that while you’re
lying on the bed looking out the window at the trees or,
from some rooms, river glimpses. A very quiet, classy and
complete retreat.Q22 rooms (18 doubles 160 - 240Lt,
2 sui tes 180 - 260Lt, 2 apar tmen ts 380 - 430Lt).
PTHA6LGKW hhh
Tulpės C-2, Sruogos 4, tel. +370 319 655 20, santulpe@
mail.lt, www.tulpe.lt. A health resort that extols, demon-
strates and offers the healing effects of the regional spring
water and mud. Accommodation is healthcare-bland - which
may be fine for those who are recovering from something,
but otherwise unspectacular other than the fact that all
rooms have balconies and the location is unbeatable. Ser-
vice is pleasant with a hint of matronly-firm. Their packages
that include accommodation and ‘wellness’ services are
worth considering. Q71 rooms (12 singles 30 - 54Lt, 50
doubles 60 - 96Lt, 3 triples 90 - 144Lt, 6 suites 45 - 110Lt).
HUFGKD
Where to eat
Audenis B-1, Lelijų 3, tel. +370 319 613 00, www.
audenis.lt. Not surprisingly, as it is in a four-star hotel, this
restaurant maintains high standards of style, cuisine and
service. The menu is, broadly speaking, European, and has
some interesting options. The fireplace can add a very cosy
atmosphere to the otherwise sleekly-modern interior in
winter. It’s also a good spot for ‘business’ meetings, which
are a surprisingly frequent occurance in Birštonas. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. AIGB
Birštono Seklytėlė C-1, Prienų 10, tel. +370 319 658
25, seklytele@sonatahotel.lt, www.sonatahotel.lt. A
hilltop location right beside the river offers the best views
in town, and attracts a stream of special occasion visitors
- weddings, parties, anniversaries or just those wanting a
special treat. You might have to fight for space in the car
park with limousines, but it’s worth it. A high timber A-frame
ceiling and stone fireplace combine with big windows and
plenty of light and space to create a bit of a Scandinavian
May 2007 - May 2008
50 birštonas
ski cabin feeling. Oh - and the food is appropriately good, too.
Come on a Saturday night and chances are you’ll be able to
enjoy somebody else’s celebratory fireworks. To get there:
Drive out of Birštonas and turn right on the A16. Take the
first U-turn, and then the first turn on your right. It’s not too
far to walk from the town centre. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
AGB

Sofijos rezidencija A-2, Jaunimo 6, tel. +370 319 452

00, fax +370 319 452 01, info@sofijosrezidencija.lt, www.
sofijosrezidencija.lt. If the food is subject to as much care and at-
tention as the furniture it ought to be divine. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
TAULGS

Sonata A-2, Algirdo 34, tel. +370 319 657 33, sek-
lytele@sonatahotel.lt, www.sonatahotel.lt. Whether on
the deck in summer, or just by the floor-to-ceiling windows in
winter, you’ll feel like you’re dining right in the forest. Except
you won’t be eating raw mushrooms or munching on a wild
mink. Rather, you will enjoy any of a pleasing range of meals,
carefully prepared and presented in a setting where refine-
ment and nature happily meet. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 09:00 - 24:00. AGB

Cheap & Cheery
Pizza Fun C-2, Birutės 3, tel. +370 659 002 50. The
favourite place for locals out for casual fun and a decent feed,
probably because it doesn’t disappoint on either count. Design
your own pizza and order a few beers, or just drop in for coffee
and a chat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
TGBS
Winter Fun
It’s all downhill from here Vacys Valužis
What to see
Boat About
Ferry B-3. Departing from a pontoon behind the Tulpės
sanatorium is a dinky little boat that ferries passengers to
the other side of the river and back. A sign on the pontoon
will list departure times (May 1 - Nov 1).

Birštonas is lovely in spring and summer, and even rather
fetching in autumn. But what about winter?
Well, it’s seems this pretty little town can even turn on
the attraction in the chillier months. Not only is it all very
pretty when dressed with snow, and with the rumbling
backdrop of the ice-covered river, but Birštonas also
attracts skiiers.
The town has a 40m-high ski slope. It may not sound
like much, but there are two downhill runs to keep both
novices and moderatley experiences skiiers happy. Any-
one with a real hunger for adventure will have to head to
some other country with proper ski slopes, but if you’re
after some simple outdoorsy fun, Birštonas will keep you
at least mildly amused. There’s a pommel-style ski lift, a
snow machine which can be fired-up when the weather
is not cooperating, and lights that keep the whole thing
going well into the evening.
Further information on the ski slope is available on
+370 319 657 70 or +370 698 430 56.
Vytenis A-2, Crumbly dock at the end of Pušyno, tel.
+370 319 658 25, seklytele@sonatahotel.lt, www.
sonatahotel.lt. While you can jump on board for an hour-long
cruise at 15:00 on Sundays (adults 20Lt, kiddies 10Lt), this
floating play pen really screams out for private bookings.
It’s ideal for weddings, parties or just a weekend away with
a group of friends. The are six cabins that sleep two, and a
big glassed-in room with a padded floor where half a dozen
people can get very friendly, play body Tetris and enjoy great
views. See the website for a map of where to climb aboard.
Churches
Saint Anthony from Padova C-2, Birutės 14. The
current church was completed in 1909 and features a very
pretty floor formed from stone tiles decorated with mosa-
ics. It’s almost a shame to walk on it, but you’ll have to do
so to visit the three naves. A church was believe to have
been built on this spot by 1529, when Birštonas became a
recognised town. The church was rebuilt in 1674, probably
after a fire. Don’t miss the wooden carved crosses in the
yard toward the pond.

If you’re a bit more sedate, you might like to try a winter

sleigh ride. A horse-drawn sleigh is availalbe to drag
you around Birštonas’s pretty landscape, warm the
cockles of your heart and leave you with fairy-tale
romantic memories. For information or bookings, call
+370 682 560 63.
www.inyourpocket.com
Museums
Museum of Birštonas B-2, Vytauto 9, tel. +370 319
656 05. What, you may wonder, is an old log doing lying in the
corner of a museum. And why has someone hollowed it out?
Well, the answer is that it is not a log, but an early wooden
pipe through which the mineral water of Birštonas flowed.
The history of the spa town is thoughtfully laid out here with
many artefacts and documents coming together to give you
glimpses of the history of the town at various stages of its
development. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Kaunas In Your Pocket

52 birštonas druskininkai 53

Sacral Art Museum C-2, Birutės 10, tel. +370 319 656
99, smuziejus@Birštonas.lt, www.muziejai.lt/Birštonas.
Not surprisingly, this place is full of religious bibs and bobs and
while we’re sure it’s the best Birštonas has to offer of such
material, it can be a bit staid, austere and … well, boring, to
be honest. The museum is located in a pretty little wooden
building near the church, so it might be worth popping in on
your way there. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Statues & Monuments

Bust of Balys Sruoga A writer, poet and intellectual, Balys
Sruoga (1896-1947) was considered dangerous to Nazis and
hence found himself in a concentration camp. Luckily, he sur-
vived the experience and in 1945 settled down in Birštonas
to write about his experiences. The resulting book, Forest of
Gods (Dievu miskas), has become famous and was recently
turned into a film. Sculpture by Giedrius Plechavičius.

Vytautas the Great B-2. Near the base of Vytautas Promenade

Hill (which you can’t miss, because it’s the only hill) is a big
statue (which you can’t Walk About
miss because it’s the only
big statue) of Vytautas
Memorial path B-3. On the other side of the river to the
town, and around the bend a bit, is a path on the steep river
the Great atop his trusty
bank. Here there are various wooden sculptures carved by
s te e d. Vy tau tas was
folk artists in memory of those who suffered under Stalin,
Grand Duke from 1401-
and their relatives. To get there, take the road to Birštono
1430 and one of the most
Nemuno Vingis (listed under ‘Where to stay’) and keep going
respected characters in
past the hotel.
Lithuania’s history as he
was instrumental in lead- View across lake Druskonis
ing the combined Lithu-
Promenade By the side of the river is a long, flat and
paved path for strollers and cyclists. At the south end (to
anian and Polish forces to
victory over some trouble-
your right as you face the river) is the Vytautas Hill, while if Where to stay Druskininkai B-2, Kudirkos 43, tel. +370 313 525 66,
you continue in the other direction you will eventually come
some Teutonic knights Druskininkai is experiencing explosive growth. New hotels, fax +370 313 513 45, reception@hotel-druskininkai.lt,
across a forest suitable for a more challenging, but also
in what was the biggest restaurants and resorts are opening up with alarming www.hotel-druskininkai.lt. A smart and gleaming glass
more rewarding, hike.
battle of medieval Europe. frequency, while many old dumps are being renovated. The box that screams out ‘business types, come hither!’ Big
See page 10 for history, town now offers plenty of options for all tastes and bud- beds, a quaint spa and service that goes beyond the call of
and 38 if you’re looking
Vytautas Hill (Birštonas Hill) D-3. It is believed that gets, from straightforward hotels, to all-inclusive deals in- duty are the highlights here. Excellent breakfasts and high
in the 14th century a wooden castle once stood on this hill.
for Vy tautas’ statue in cluding therapies at one of the town’s many sanatoriums. speed internet stations in the lobby. Don’t miss the rooftop
Now you can stand on it too, and you’ll notice that it offers
Kaunas. Pink granite sculpture by Gediminas Jokūbonis A few cheap and cheerful self-catering packages are also garden in summer and the spa facilities at any time. Q 50
some breathtaking views of the winding river and the town of
erected in 1998. on offer, and you can even camp if you feel so inclined. rooms (singles 200Lt, doubles 290Lt, junior suites 340-
Birštonas itself. Try not to think too much about the fact that,
360Lt, suites 420-500Lt, presidential apartments 800Lt).
supposedly, a woman was hanged from a tree up there by a
Wooden sculptures B-3. In a yard beside the church find priest with whom she had fallen in love. Now it is often used
Aqua Medūna A-2, Vilniaus 13-1, tel. +370 313 PTHARULEGKDW hhhh
a small but impressive collection of wooden sculptures that 59195/+370 697 080 00, aquameduna@stamita.lt.
as a vantage point from which to take wedding photos. Steps
were created during an international wood carving symposium
lead up the hill on both the north and south sides.
This hotel, located within the sparkly new Aqua Park, is equally Europa Royale B-2, Vilniaus 7, tel. +370 313 422 21,
held in Birštonas in 1998. sparkly and new but overpriced. You see, they just opened reservation@groupeuropa.com, www.europaroyale.
in a prime location and they’re up-themselves already. The com. It’s a mansion. Actually, it was an 18th century man-
rooms are more functional than comfortable, and really a sion, and now it is a swish and sparkly new hotel that offers
On yer bike little bit too basic given the prices. Good views are available the utmost in comfort and luxury. All rooms have heated
from some rooms but until they get a bit more realistic with floors, minibar, safes, air conditioning and a telephone in
Birštonas is ideally suited to two-wheeled exploration. the prices this should be a last resort.Q92 rooms (7 singles the toilet so you can lord it over the staff - serenely friendly
Near the heart of the town, along the river, is a long paved 150 - 180Lt, 78 doubles 230 - 280Lt, 5 suites 360 - 440Lt, 2 types, we might add - from the comfort of your throne.
path that is ideal for a leisurely and picturesque ride. It’s apartments 599 - 699Lt). PHALGW hhh There’s even twice-daily housekeeping. You’ll be tempted
also very flat, which is great if you’re lazy. In addition to to stay until you run out of money. Q65 rooms (2 singles
that, you can pedal into the forests and enjoy the scent Dalija B-2, Vasario 16-osios 1, tel. +370 313 518 14, 200 - 320Lt, 52 doubles 200 - 270Lt, 6 suites 340 - 450Lt,
of pines, the calls of birds, and no chance of being run dalijahotel@one.lt. You won’t do better in terms of loca- 5 apartments 500 - 760Lt). PHAULGKDW
over by crazy Lithuanian drivers. tion and price unless you sleep on a bench. The charming hhhh
late-1800s building hints at the mildly dowdy and dated but
Keep in mind that you can not only explore the forest near throroughly comfortable innards of this little family-run guest- Galia B-1, Maironio 3, tel. +370 313 605 11/+370
the town itself, but head a bit further afield and make a house. The rooms are like mini-apartments, with their own 313 605 15, fax +370 313 605 12, hotel2@galia.lt,
real day of it. With a picnic lunch, a pair of wheels and kitchenette and private bathrooms. Staying here is not just www.galia.lt. So that’s where all the used furniture from
a gentle spirit of adventure, you can enjoy the best of a bargain, but a pleasant experience. Cheap and charming. the Star Trek set went. The hotel is actually located in three
Birštonas by bicycle. Q11 rooms (5 doubles 80 - 100Lt, 3 triples 100 - 120Lt, 3 buildings, one of which looks a bit mock-medieval. Yes, it’s
suites 150Lt). TG totally wacky, and may be the perfect place for those who
love Lithuanian strangeness, as well as a green bubbling
pool with twinkling ‘stars’ in the ceiling above. Q46 rooms
 The Druskininkai (2 singles 80 - 100Lt, 41 doubles 120 - 150Lt, 3 quads
www.inyourpocket.com telephone code is +370 313 200 - 240Lt, 6 suites 160 - 200Lt). TARLGK
“I think I see a woodpecker” hhh

Kaunas In Your Pocket May 2007 - May 2008

54 druskininkai
Wander to the river
Jerevan M.K.Čiurlionio 128, tel. +370 313 555
54/+370 650 350 79, info@jerevan.lt, www.jerevan.lt.
Out of town, and out of the question unless you like the idea of
a technicolor yawn before bedtime. Rooms are colour-themed
and totally tasteless. The pink room, in particular, is hideous
- pink curtains, shimmering pink bedspread, heart-shaped
lamps. Small girls might like it, but for everyone else, staying
here is a headache waiting to happen. Q9 rooms (2 singles
60Lt, 4 doubles 150Lt, 1 suite 280Lt, 2 mini suite 200Lt).
TARLGBKS hhh
Medūna B-2, Liepų 2, tel. +370 313 580 33, fax +370
313 580 34, meduna@stamita.lt, www.meduna.lt. The
gleaming glass and ochre exterior hints at the modernity
and warmth inside, but does nothing to prepare you for the
chintzy and somewhat over-the-top rooms, possibly deco-
rated by Flash Gordon’s mum. Still, it’s nothing a quick respite
in the rough brick and lumpen leather wine cellar won’t fix.
Q (15 doubles 80 - 300Lt). PTARLGK hhh
Nemunas B-2, Kosciuškios 6, tel. +370 313 516 60,
nemunas@office.vija.lt, www.druskonis.lt/sanatorija/
nemunas. A decrepit and disgusting box that should only be
considered as a last resort by cheapskates, scumbags and
those with a hankering to relive a miserable Soviet past. The
novelty of bright red velour furniture, crinkly carpets, dodgy
blinking lights and sod all heating in winter can’t make up for
the hideous skin-crawling state of the bathrooms. Vile. Stay
away. Q (Rooms single/double 35 - 63 Lt, triple - 94,50 Lt,
suite 50 - 144 Lt.). THRUFLNGK h
Pušynas B-2, Vilniaus 3, tel. +370 313 566 66, info@
pusynas.lt, www.pusynas.lt. You can’t miss it. It looks
like a birthday cake designed by Gaudi. Or maybe a termite
mound. Anyway, while the outside may appear a bit startling
the interior is simple, subtle, smart and suave. If you can resist
the temptation of your weird bikini-shaped balcony for a while,
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Tourist information
Tourism Information Centre C-2, Gardino 3, tel.
+370 313 608 00, information@druskininkai.lt,
www.druskininkai.lt. The main office near the bus sta-
tion is closed on weekends, but there’s a second location
on Čiurlionio that you can try. Also at Čiurlionio 65, Open
10:00 - 18:45, Sun 10:00 - 17:00, tel +370 313 517 77
QOpen 08:30 - 17:15. Closed Sat, Sun.
you will enjoy satellite television, minibar and internet access.
Q66 rooms (11 singles 140Lt, 48 doubles 170Lt, 7 suites
250Lt). PTHARUGKXSW hhh
Regina A/B-2, Kosciuškos 3, tel. +370 313 590
60, fax +370 313 590 61, reservation@regina.lt,
www.regina.lt. A stylish hotel without the extra frills,
but with some great offers to entice guests - romantic
weekends, family breaks and healthy holiday packages
are all available. A peachy plum place for a weekend away.
Q 40 rooms (8 singles 150 - 190Lt, 29 doubles 220
- 280Lt, 3 suites 320 - 400Lt). THAREGKX
hhh
Violeta B-3, Kurorto 4, tel. +370 313 606 00, fax
+370 313 606 02, info@violeta.lt, www.violeta.lt. Of-
fering as spectacular a riverside landscape as is possible.
Rooms are gorgeous, but as there is a wonderful dining
terrace for summer and a cafe/restaurant with a fireplace
for winter, you may not stay in them too much. There’s also
a sprinkling of small pools, massage and fitness services,
and secure underground parking. Q20 rooms (2 singles
200 - 250Lt, 13 doubles 300 - 340Lt, 4 suites 380 - 420Lt,
1 apartment 600 - 900Lt). THARUFLGKDC
hhhh
Spas
Draugystės Sanatorija B-3, Krėvės 7, tel. +370 313
531 32, sanatorija@draugyste.lt, www.draugyste.lt.
The name means ‘friendship’ and if you want a friendly mas-
sage, mud bath or mineral bath they will be happy to oblige.
Accommodation is available in pretty little villas located on
the sprawling grounds where two rivers meet. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00. ADC
Druskininkų Gydykla A-2, Vilniaus 11, tel. +370 313
605 08, www.gydykla.lt. A bright and modern sanatorium
offering mud, mineral, bubble, carbonic, turpentine, herbal,
vapor, vertical and underwater massage baths - and a nice
room to sit down in and look out across the park and river
afterwards. No accommodation.
Eglės Sanatorija A-5, Eglės 1, tel. +370 313 602 20,
fax +370 313 602 38, info@sanatorija.lt, www.sana-
torija.lt. The building is a bit dated on the outside and the
accommodation is a bit simple on the inside, but they offer full
treatment and therapy services. A bit more hospital-like and
less hotel-like than its competitors. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00.
THRUFLEGKDC
Lietuvos Sanatorija B-2, Kudirkos 45, tel. +370 313
528 33, fax +370 313 554 90, info@sanatorijalietuva.
lt, www.sanatorijalietuva.lt. Not one of the most modern
places - it might remind you of an old James Bond movie
- but it is certainly professional and comfortable and there’s
no chance that you will be drowned in your mud bath by a
SPECTRE operative. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. HAGK
druskininkai 55
Vilnius Spa C-3, Dineikos 1, tel. +370 313 538
11/+370 313 591 60, fax +370 313 590 59, info@ Soviet Park
spa-vilnius.lt, www.spa-vilnius.com. The all-in-one modern
hotel and sparkly spa package with a generous mineral water
swimming pool and modern gym packed with blinking, whirring
exercise machines. Mud and mineral baths are also available.
Spa open: 08:00 - 22:00. Q187 rooms (24 singles 149Lt, 114
doubles 250Lt, 41 suites 300 - 350Lt, 8 apartments 420 - 439Lt).
PTHARUFLEGKDXCW hhhh
Camping
Dainava A-2, Maironio 22, tel. +370 313 591 00, dain-
ava@centrasdainava.lt, www.centrasdainava.lt. This is
part of a training centre for civil servants, but don’t let that
worry you. There’s spaces for vans and tents with electricity,
water, showers and toilets. And you don’t even have to take a
number and wait in a queue to use them. Yet. Grūtas Park Grūtas, 130km southwest of Vilnius,
tel. +370 313 555 11, info@grutoparkas.lt, www.
Kempingas C-2, Gardino 3, tel. +370 313 608 00, camp- grutoparkas.lt. Several Stalins and loads of Lenins litter
ing@druskininkai.lt. Clean, tidy, family friendly and the ideal this bizarre, mildly controversial sculpture park near the
place to park your caravan or pitch your tent. Ideally located a spa town of Druskininkai. The brainchild of local mush-
short way out of the centre, so you get nearby forests and lakes room millionaire Viliumas Malinauskas, come and gaze
while being just a few hundred metres stroll from the centre. upon row after row of retired communist sculptures, col-
Enough room for 45 caravans or tents. Q Tents 30Lt, vans 50Lt lected en mass from their former positions of importance
and little cabins 100Lt per night for two people. throughout Lithuania. A small zoo is thoughtfully provided
so the wild boar in the cages can bite off the little children’s
Where to eat fingers, and if you’re hungry there’s a restaurant too. To
get there by car from Druskininkai, just drive toward Vilnius
and look for the sign on your right. You can also go by bus.
Cafés Bus 1 departs from the bus stop by the little blue Russian
Saulė Grąža B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. +370 313 523 18. Orthodox church (B-2) while bus 2 departs from the bus
The no-nonsense pub-shack-dump kind of place that is ideal station (C-2). Both buses run so frequently that we don’t
for beer, pizza and basic grilled meat kinds of meals. Very ordi- have spece to list the full schedule, but you can see the
nary, but hits the spot when you’re having a slobbing around times at departure points. The park is clearly signposted
in the tracksuit kind of day and are feeling unfussy. QOpen from the A4 for the final 1km hike to the park itself. It’s
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. TAGBS also a pleasant ride on a bicycle, but keep in mind that
there’s a bit of walking to be done once you’re in the park,
Sicilia I & II B-2, Taikos 9, tel. +370 313 518 65, www. so you might want to save some energy.
sicilia.lt. There are two locations, so once you’ve worked out Open winter time 09:00 - 17:00, summer time 09:00
that this is the best option for cheap and cheerful dining you can - 16:30. Q Admission, adults 10Lt, children 3Lt, photo
alternate between them without feeling like you’re becoming a and filming fee 5-10Lt.
part of the furniture. The pizzas, according to one local pizza lover,
are better than those offered by the chain stores, and other meals
hit a pleasing balance of value and quality. The only problem is that
you’ll often have to wait for a table. Also at Čiurlionio 56. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. PTAGBS
Restaurants & Clubs
Dangaus Skliautas B-3, Kurorto 8, tel. +370 313
518 19. If Elvis was an Arab, he might have come up with
something like this. It’s mildly over the top, and replete with
little booths tucked away behind tasselled frames and glitzy
curtains that look like little Bedouin tents. With a table in the
middle. It’s also great joint for pop-star food, and they crank
out a good blend of music that brings the place to life in the
evenings. Sometimes. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 03:00. PAIEGBS
Europa Royale B-2, Vilniaus 7, tel. +370 313 422 21,
druskininkai@europaroyale.com, www.europaroyale.
com. When we went to print, this place was still so new and
gleaming that it looked like they might only serve toothpaste
to angels. If it starts to look a bit lived-in it wouldn’t be a bad
thing, because they serve things like soups, salads and a
small selection of exquisite meat dishes - duck, beef, venison,
salmon and so on - to mortals with money. A bright summer
house with lush furnishings, lovely views, and very tempting Marija Melnikaitė, sculpture by J. Mikėnas
meals. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PAULGBS
May 2007 - May 2008
56 druskininkai
Kolonada B-2, Kudirkos 22, tel. +370 313 512
22/+370 612 110 88, info@kolonada.lt, www.kolonada.
lt. A music club as much as a restaurant, and reviving a pre-
war history of intelectual types sitting around being... erm,
intelectual. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights enjoy jazz,
blues and rock ‘n’ roll, and classical music respectively. On
other evenings, be entertained by a DVD player. Despite the
opening hours printed here, they keep going until the last per-
son leaves. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
PAUIEGBS
Regina A-2, Kosciuškos 3, tel. +370 313 590 60.
The restaurant has doubled in size, making it the biggest
in town. Plenty of interesting options to choose from in
a fairly romantic environment. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00.
TAEGBS
What to see
For reasons known only to the chosen few Party favourites
at the time, it was extremely popular during the Soviet
years to fill health resorts and spa towns with the kind
of architecture usually reserved for the pages of science
fiction novels. Druskininkai was no exception, and among
the handful of eye-catching modern buildings in the town
was the former physiotherapy treatment centre. It has
now been turned into an aqua park (see pages 64-65) but,
in addition to some shiny new glass, retains some weird
swirly concrete bits around the entrance. It would have to
be one of the most original buildings to have ever left the
confines of a drawing board. Twice. Do yourself a favour
and have a good look around the outside if you’re in town.
Absolutely incredible.
Churches
Holy Virgin Mary Scapular Church B-2, Fonbergo 15,
tel. +370 313 552 28. A pretty neo-Gothic church that was
rebuilt as you see it now from 1912-1931.
Russian Orthodox Church B-2, Laisvės square. Of-
ficial name: Joy of All Who Sorrow. Dating from 1865 this
diminutive blue wooden building is delightful both inside
and out, and seemingly rather out of place. When you’ve
finally finished gaping in wonder at the exterior take some
time and go through the main door to be astonished at the
sheer splendour of the array of icons and religious paintings
scattered throughout.
Museums
Druskininkai Museum B-2, Čiurlionio 59, tel. +370
313 510 24, muziejus@druskininkai.lt. Housed in a
grand villa, this museum doesn’t just offer a glimpse of town
history and a peek into the work of a few honorary citizens,
but also hosts occasional concerts and events. Worth a visit
for the building and lakeside location alone. QOpen 11:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun.
Jacques Lipchitz Museum B-2, Šv. Jokūbo 17, tel.
+370 313 560 77. Druskininkai’s most famous Jew was
undoubtedly the Cubist sculptor Jacques Lipchitz (1891-
1973). This small museum dedicated to him is closed
between September and May, but if enough noises are
clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com
Kaunas In Your Pocket
made in the right direction (the museum is actually part of
the Jewish National Museum), it is possible to gain entrance.
Q Open Jun - Sep.
Museum of Resistance & Relics Of Deportations
(Rezistencijos ir Tremties Muziejus) B-2, Vilniaus
24, tel. +370 656 083 73. It’s just what the name says,
focusing on the resistance movement of 1944-1953 and the
Dainava region partisans and deportees. Mostly photographs
and press clippings. Open Wed, Sun 13:00-17:00. For visits
at other time call in advance.
Places of interest
Echo of the Forest C-5, Čiurlionio 116, tel. +370 313
539 01. This quite extraordinary construction has been built
to give the illusion of floating in the air, and it almost works.
Inside you’ll find a ‘living evocation’ of the forest it sits in,
complete with all manner of flora and fauna, animals and bugs.
An oak tree grows through the centre of the building, making
the whole place quite the most bizarre and uplifting adventure.
Those looking for pure nature can step out the back and go
for a walk along the specially arranged trail. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Jewish Cemetery Find the tiny cemetery/memorial hidden
in the woods, a few hundred metres directly southwest of the
derelict train station at Gardino 3. A chilly combination of silence,
Hebrew script and deep forest, this is not a place for the timid.
Čiurlionis
Čiurlionis Memorial Museum B-2, Čiurlionio 35,
tel. +370 313 511 31. Lithuania’s greatest artist and
musician was Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis (1875-
1911). Born in the nearby town of Varėna, he spent his
childhood in Druskininkai and the town remains his spiri-
tual home. An immensely prolific artist, Čiurlionis wrote
extensively for the piano, composed string quartets,
and also penned the country’s first symphony, In The
Forest. His musical style shifted between the pastoral
and romantic to occasional dabblings in serialism. A busy
painter too, Čiurlionis was one of the primary organizers
of the country’s first exhibition of Lithuanian art in Vilnius
in 1907. He served as a conductor, was involved in the
Lithuanian independence movement, married the writer
Sofija Kymantaitė, and also found time to design some
beautiful stained glass. Such a frenetic life for such a shy
man was bound to take its toll, and a bout of depression
resulted in him first coming home to Druskininkai for
recuperation, and then to a nursing home near Warsaw
where he died of pneumonia at the tragically young age
of 35. Čiurlionis left a daughter, whom although almost
a year old when he died, he never met.
Much has been written on the subject of his art (some
claim he was the founder of abstract art), music, and
general mental condition, most of it being pithy academic
nonsense. What is clear is that Čiurlionis was a huge tal-
ent, coming at the right time to coincide with the rebirth
of the Lithuanian psyche. As well as the statue at the
northern end of Kudirkos, a museum can be found at the
site of his childhood home in the street that now bears his
name. They also sell a range of postcards, posters and
CDs of his work. In the summer the museum also boasts
strange weekend piano concerts, during which a pianist
plays through an open window to an audience sat outside
in the garden. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
58 aqua park
Lithuania seems to be in the midst of an aquatic frenzy. Not
only has the capital of Vilnius splashed out on a new aqua
park but another one opened just last year in Druskininkai.
Of course we had to head down there to check it out, and it
is with wrinkly fingers and great pleasure that we can report
that it is a great venue. Mostly.
The park has been built in what would have to be one
of Druskininkai’s strangest buildings. And that’s saying
something. You see, Druskininkai was once a playground
and spa resort for the Soviet elite. Not only did it attract a
lot of money, but it seems that it attracted architects who
never passed a mental age of 12. So they created buildings
that looked like space ships, insects and copulating aliens.
Many of their more garish creations have since succumbed
to common sense and bulldozers, but the most startling
formed the basis for the aqua park. The effect is profound,
with wacky concrete creations forming a skeleton for modern
whiz-bang gleaming glass and curves. It would not be too
much to say that this is one of the most unique buildings in
Lithuania. It’s certainly unconventional.
The wacky design and layout continues inside. Indeed,
actually getting into the aqua park—passing through the
entry and changing rooms—is like getting into a space
station. At one point you find yourself in a round room
surrounded by doors. The doors have lights above them,
red or green. The feeling of ‘what do I do?’ and ‘where do I
go?’ is disconcerting. There is no sign that says ‘men, this
way; women, that way’. So you just go into one of the doors
and suddenly you’re in your own little changing cubicle. But
there’s no locker. So you have to change, re-pack your bag,
and then carry on, exiting into what turns out to be a vast
Kaunas In Your Pocket
© Druskininkų vandens parkas
unisex locker room. Choose a locker, stash your bag and the
adventure continues. You have to shower before you can
swim, so the next stage of the operation is to pass through
the shower area. The problem here is that the men’s and
women’s showers are not physically separated, and while
there are little boys and girls signs to direct the traffic, they
are ignored by perverts, morons (and there are no shortage
of either) and anyone distracted by something in a swimsuit.
Our Editor saw old ladies wobbling around in the men’s
showers. Likewise, the ladies saw men traipsing through the
women’s showers. That’s just not right, especially when there
is nakedness involved, and sometimes there is. (The same
showers are used both before and after swimming.)
Once you pass through that ordeal you can emerge into
the vast landscape of pools. We tried to count how many
different pools there are but ran out of fingers. There are
quite a few, and they are embellished with waterfalls, spas,
flowing rivers and a wave pool. To just get around and see
everything takes a good hour.
On top of all that, or sort of on the side and on top, are the
water slides. There was a bit of hullabaloo about the water
slides on the day the aqua park opened because some of the
people who tried them ended up going home in an ambulance.
No such excitement was available when we visited, however,
as whatever problems had existed had been rectified and
everything was safe and operating without injuring people.
As was the case with the pools, we failed to count how many
water slides there actually are, but did notice that there are
quite a few. Some of them are designed for passengers on
inflatable whatchamacallits, while others require you to travel
unsupported.
© Druskininkų vandens parkas
We went straight for the ‘extreme’ waterslide because that
was the one that had injured people and, in the interests of
keeping our readers alive, we had to test it. It lived up to its
name. It starts off with you gently sliding through a tube like
a Thunderbird on his way to save the world. Then it gets a bit
faster, and you feel like you’re James Bond zipping through
some unguarded irrigation duct in the secret headquarters
of Doctor Splash (and his pet catfish) on your way to save
the world and find a girl in a bikini. Then, rather suddenly we
recall, it all starts to get a bit twisty-turny and you can’t think
or feel much at all because there are G-forces trying to suck
your brain out through your ear. Then everything goes black,
there’s a big whoosh and an almighty splash, and suddenly
you’re in a warm pool in a big open space. This is what it
must feel like to be a sperm.
In addition to frolicking in pools and under waterfalls and
being shot through a tube, you can enjoy saunas. There are
basic saunas included in the basic price, but if you pay a bit
extra you can go into saunaland where there are different
varieties of saunas and baths from all over the world.
(Although we did notice the absence of the Australian sauna,
also known as the outback dunny.)
© Druskininkų vandens parkas
aqua park 59
The biggest problems with the Druskininkai Aqua Park are
the confusing entry prices and the shambles of changing
and showers. It’s nothing to spend 15 minutes looking at
the big board of prices, scratching your head, and wondering
what you want and for how long. (We suggest three hours
minimum. Four if you want to explore the saunas.) You can
also easily spend 15 minutes of your paid-for time walking
around in circles and working your way through the changing
and showering rigmarole. Other niggles are that there are no
mirrors in the changing room. Ladies won’t like that. (There
are mirrors and hair dryers, but they are situated in such a
way that you have to use them before changing, which may
not always be ideal.)
Aside from such niggles, however, the aqua park is a triumph.
It is clean, modern, well-run and just oodles of fun. Combined
with a visit to Grūtas Parkas (see page 61) it makes a day
out in Druskininkai well worth considering for any visitors
to Kaunas.
Druskininkai Aqua Park A-2, Vilniaus 13, tel.
+370 313 523 38, info@akvapark.lt, www.akvapark.
lt. QOpen Mon - Thu, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 23:00. AGULK
© Druskininkų vandens parkas
Water words
These phrases may help you survive encounters with
local mermaids, sea monkeys and octupii.
Don’t pee in the pool ­– Nesišlapinkite į vandenį
You’ve gone all wrinkly – Tu visas susiraukšlėjęs
What a beautiful mermaid – Kokia graži undinėlė
Help! I’m drowning – Ugh-blub-mphflop... etc
No fishing – Žvejoti draudžiama
Look out! – Atsargiai!
I’m sure you’re very beautiful with clothes on – Aš
tikras, kad jūs atrodote gražiai su rūbais
Phwoar! – Vau!
It’s too deep here – Čia per gilu
I’ve lost my children – Aš nerandu savo vaikų
How old are you? – Kiek tau metų?
Fancy a drink? – Ar norėtum išgerti?
Get your hands off me! – Patrauk rankas nuo manęs!
May 2007 - May 2008
60 kedainiai
 The Kėdainiai
telephone code is +370 347
The little town of Kėdainiai, some 45km north of Kaunas,
was first mentioned in 1372 in Herman Wartberge’s
Livonian Chronicle, and has over the years suffered the
full effects both good and bad of being a reasonably
important Lithuanian conurbation. Home to the wealthy
and influential protestant Radvila family, the town just 300
years ago boasted a 50 per cent Scottish population as
well as being a refuge for other Lithuanian protestant com-
munities. Known for its tolerance, Kėdainiai has played
host to Arian, Catholic, Russian Orthodox and Jewish
communities, and at one time became dangerously close
to becoming a part of Sweden thanks to a document that
was almost signed there in 1655. Prior to the genocide of
the Jewish population of Lithuania, the Jews ran the entire
Kėdainiai fire brigade as well as sporting their own football
team, and traces of their lives still exist in the city. Unfairly
labelled as the modern cucumber capital of Lithuania,
modern Kėdainiai is a charming destination for a day or
two, claiming one of the best-preserved old towns in Lithu-
ania, interesting museums and out-of-town attractions.
Getting there
By bus The best option is to catch any of the many buses
running to Kėdainiai from the Kaunas bus station.
By car Taking the A1 toward Klaipėda, you’ll see that Kėdainiai
is well signposted from Kaunas. If you stay within the national
speed limits, the journey time is about half an hour.
Where to stay
Hotels
Aroma Rex Hotel Didžioji 52, tel./fax +370 347 555
55, hotel@aroma.lt, www.aroma.lt. Cosy, clean, comfort-
able, and with the exception of the 70’s style gold and bronze
bed covers, unspectacular. All the rooms are modestly sized
except room five, which is enormous (ask for it when you
book), and have a writing desk, cable TV with dodgy recep-
tion, two single beds, and glistening modern bathrooms.
Breakfast is included in the price. Q 5 rooms (100 - 250
Lt). PTARLG hhhh
Grėjaus Namas Didžioji 36, tel. +370 347 515
00/+370 347 671 53, fax +370 347 671 54, hotel@
grejausnamas.lt, www.grejausnamas.lt. It’s razzama-
drab! Furniture is new and comfortable but tends to be either
cheezy-glitzy or a bit bland. Still, it’s about as stylish as things
get in this town, and all the mod cons are there: safe, minibar,
free internet, satellite television. The new best hotel in town.
Q18 rooms (3 singles 120Lt, 13 doubles 180 - 200Lt, 2
suites 290Lt). PTJALGKW hhh
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre Didžioji 1, tel. +370
347 603 63, turizmas@kedainiai.lt, www.visitke-
dainiai.lt. The English speaking staff are not only very
friendly and knowledgeable, but extremely attentive and
helpful. There’s plenty of information available including
maps, suggested driving tours, and literature on things to
see and do in the entire region. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Kaunas In Your Pocket
Useful information
Municipality Basanavičiaus 36, tel. +370 347
695 00, fax +370 347 611 25, turizmas@kedainia.
lt, www.visitkedainiai.lt.
Police Mickevičiaus 22, tel. +370 347 542 13.
Hospital Budrio 5, tel. +370 347 515 73 .
Train station Dariaus ir Girėno 3, tel. +370 347 523
33. QOpen 08:30 - 10:30, 12:30 - 20:10 (box office).
Bus station Basanavičiaus 93, tel. +370 347 603
33. QOpen 05:00 - 22:00.
Raganė Sirutiškis village, Kėdainiai district, tel. +370
347 415 35. If you don’t mind being a little way out of the
centre, this will feel like a home away from home. Rooms are
crisp and clean, with simple furniture and modern bathrooms.
One room even has a fireplace, and a balcony overlooking a
fascinating collection of rusting junk, including an artificial
reindeer, in the neighbour’s backyard. Beds in the single
rooms are actually quite wide, and could accommodate
couples. There’s a lovely communal kitchen downstairs,
and an even lovelier hostess who encourages you to use
it, giving the place a big happy-family kind of feel. The only
disadvantage is the location. There’s a shop downstairs
for supplies, but you’ll need a car or a bike to actually go
anywhere interesting. Q12 rooms (1 single 60 - 80Lt, 6
doubles 100 - 120Lt, 4 quads 200Lt). TR6ULGX
hhh
Guesthouses
Sandra & Co Guesthouse Šėtos 112, tel. +370 347
683 48, fax +370 347 575 75. The ground floor of this
crumbling concrete eyesore hosts a range of accommoda-
tion from single rooms to humble apartments. Often used by
workers from the local fertiliser factory, and with a communal
kitchen, it smells a bit, and feels like a Soviet style dormitory.
The bathrooms are time capsules, the furniture is nondescript
and probably pleasing to old people, and everything is spot-
lessly clean and functional. Be warned that this is in a bit of
a rough area. The only sign in English promises that your car
will be stolen, but you can cram as many people as you want
into a room for the set price, so there might be safety, and
savings, in numbers. To find it, take Šėtos street away from
the town centre, cross the railway line and it’s the second
monstrosity on the right. Q 15 rooms (doubles 100 Lt, quad
100Lt, dormitory for 6 victims 150 Lt). GX
Where to eat
Grėjaus Namas Didžioji str. 36, tel. +370 347 515
00/+370 347 671 53, fax +370 347 671 54, www.
grejausnamas.lt. Probably the swankiest place in town.
The cellar dining rooms really are hidden gems. Meals have
a touch of flair without being the sort of baffling highfalutin
nonsense that will scare the locals away. There are ostrich
dishes, for example, as well as design-your-own pizza. Maybe
you should try an ostrich pizza? Q Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. TJAULGW
Grūdynė Ariogalos 3 (Josvainiai), tel. +370 699 200 51.
This place is not actually in Kėdainiai. It’s in the cute little town
of Josvainiai which you will pass through on the way betwen
Kėdainiai and Kaunas, and it comes highly recommended
as a top spot to stop for fresh and tasty food in a pleasant
atmosphere. You could also wander around the town, but don’t
talk to the priest at the church... he’s a bit... erm... strange.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. GBS
Po Šiaudiniu Stogu Jazminų 1, tel. +370 347 615
72/+370 685 116 93. A thatched wooden cabin in a hous-
ing estate may not be to everybody’s taste, but this is a great
place to eat and drink. Inside, not even the creepy stuffed ani-
mals’ heads can crush the welcoming and cosy atmosphere.
Outside are covered tables and benches for wasting sunny
afternoons, and swings and a see-saw to keep the kiddies, or
tipsy adults, amused. The menu (printed in such a way as to
imitate a newspaper, although not in English) features a whole
host of traditional Lithuanian salads, soups, main dishes
and deserts. Complete with after dinner Lavazza coffee and
friendly staff, no stay in Kėdainiai is complete without a visit
here. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. TAIEGBS
Savas Kampas Didžioji 39, tel. +370 347 576 36. A
popular hangout for colourful local characters, but don’t let
that put you off. Brave the slightly wonky and tightly spiralled
staircase and head upstairs for meals that are pleasing to
your pocket as they are to your palette - or at least your
stomach. There’s traditional Lithuanian (basically, cepelinai),
meat and fish dishes, and 20 kinds of pizza. Savas Kampas
is lively, yet cosy and unpretentious - they don’t try hard to
be anything other than great value. English is hidden on the
crowded page of the menu with all the small type. It’s also
worth noting that this is the first place to open in the mornings,
and your only option for a morning brew. Head straight there
if you arrive on the morning train. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 09:00 - 23:00. TAUIG
By Night
Activity zone Tilto 2, tel. +370 686 500 30, www.
activityzone.lt. They’ve splashed a lot of colourful paint
about, giving this place a bit of a tropical feel. There’s also
a half-decent lighting and sound set-up which seems to stir
up a fun, easy-going atmosphere. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. LG
Vikonda Basanavičiaus 22, tel. +370 347 672 92,
www.vikondosklubas.lt. Stepping off the streets of
Kėdainiai and stepping into this place is like entering another
galaxy, complete with a milky way of little twinkling lights in
the dark ceiling, and a mirror ball the size of a small planet.
Not only is there a gloriously large dance floor surrounded
by a range of seating on two levels, but you’ll also find billiard
tables, poker machines, video games, a three-lane bowling
alley and, in case it’s all a bit too much (which it is), a very
groovy chill-out room with bean bags and bizarre organic look-
ing furniture. Combine all that with the restaurant (mentioned
above), and you’ve got a venue that would be at home in a
city much bigger than Kėdainiai. No wonder people come from
all around Lithuania just to visit this place. It’s a bit dead on
weeknights, but a must on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00,
Wed, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PALG
kedainiai 61
Jewish Kėdainiai
Although a Jewish population existed in Kėdainiai in the 15th
century, no record of their activities at this time exists, and
the fact that they were there at all is evident in the historical
fact that in 1495 Archduke Alexander banished all Jews living
in the town. They reappeared around the middle of the 16th
century (the banishment was repealed in 1503). The early
Jewish settlers were granted the right to produce beer and
spirits in 1652, making them the main inn owners and food
providers. Not much survived WWII in the way of Jewish culture
with the exception of the two synagogues at Senoji Rinka in
the heart of the Old Town.
Museums & Churches
Kėdainiai Regional Museum Didžioji 19, tel. +370
347 536 85, muziejus@kedainiai.omnitel.net. Housed in
the 18th century Carmelite convent building, this particular
museum has been in existence since 1921, and houses some
30,000 exhibits dealing with ‘the spiritual and material life of
the Kėdainiai region’. Notable among the collection are some
of the possessions of the town’s most famous resident,
Duke Jonušas Radvila (1612-1655), a pair of ‘vyžos’ (peas-
ant boots made from linden tree bark), and some hideous
English furniture fashioned from antlers. Although a feast for
the eyes, the accompanying descriptions have the briefest
of English translations - they literally call a spade ‘A spade’.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
St Joseph’s Church Radvilų 10. The 18th century St.
Joseph’s church is a cute wooden masterpiece, complete
with two box-shaped towers and a freestanding bell tower.
Inside, find a host of folk symbols and other signs of rustic
influence.
The Mausoleum of the Radvila Dukes (Evangelical
Reformed Church) Senoji 1. The final resting place of
the illustrious Radvila family, tucked away for eternity in the
basement of the 17th century church. A grand total of six
family members lie in exquisite coffins – the most significant
noble grave in Lithuania. Contact the Tourist Information
Centre for an appointment.
Places of interest
Minaret A strange structure hidden across the tracks from
the train station at Dariaus ir Girėno 93, this tall white Turk-
ish-style spike was constructed between 1880 and 1887
by a Russian military hero by the unlikely name of Count Von
Totleben. Now in a state of serious disrepair, it’s still worth
a visit, not least to its charming location in a wooded park
among the remnants of an old manor. You can go up inside and
enjoy the view from the top, but you’ll return filthy.
Paberžė If you must bore your friends with ‘Look where I’ve
been’ photos, stop by the geographical centre of Lithuania.
It’s just 2km from Kėdainiai, and just a bunch of rocks in a
field. Much more interesting is Paberžė, where you’ll see the
exquisite wooden Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, built in
1787. The church and surrounding buildings were home to
eccentric monk and national hero Father Stanislovas (who
sadly passed away in June 2005) , and his famous quirky
collections - a mind-boggling array of treasures and junk, such
as exquisite religious robes, carved wooden crosses and, well,
old keys and pots. Equally eccentric is Kęstutis Kaltenis, who
has taken it upon himself to stock Skinderiškių Park with an
amazing array of plants from around the northern hemisphere
and create a stunning natural environment and some of the
best views in Lithuania.
May 2007 - May 2008
62 Street register
All of the venues in this Dobkevičiaus B-4 Lietuvių E-1/F-2 Sasnausko F-1
guidebook marked with an Dobužinskio E-2 “Limos” takas C-1 Savanorių pr. C-2/F-4
Old Town symbol () are Donelaičio D/F-2 “Limos“ vyšnių C-1 Serbentų D-1
featured as such because Druskininkų B/C-3 Liškiavos C-1 Slyvų E-1
even if they’re not in Old Dzūkų F-1 Lydos F-2 Smalininkų C-3
Town per se, they are at Dzūkų laiptai E/F-2 Mackevičiaus B-2/D-1 Spaustuvininkų E-3
least on the map opposite Gedimino E-4 /F-2 Mackevičiaus laiptai Šatrijos C/D-1
which we call Old Town. Šv. Gertrūdos B/C-2 D-1/2 Šauklių B-2
Confused? Don’t be. Giedraičių F-1 Maironio D-3/2 Šermukšnių E-1
Gimnazijos B-3/2 Mapu B-2 Šilutės C-3
Aguonų F-2 Griunvaldo E/F-4 Mickevičiaus E-4/2 Telšių D-1
Aleksoto A-3 Gruodžio C-3 Minkovskių B/C-4 Totorių F-3
Amerikos Lietuvių A/B-4 Hariso B/C-4 Miško E/F-3 Trimito C-3
Antakalnio B-4 Jablonskio B-3/2 Muitinės A/B-3 Trumpoji B-2
Astronomijos E-1 Jakšto A-3/2 Muziejaus A-3 Turžėnų C-1/2
Aukštaičių E/F-1 Jonavos A-2/C-1 Naugardo B-3 Vaidilutės F-3
Aukštoji B-4 Jurbarko A/B-1 Nemuno B/C-3 Vaisių D/E-1
Aušros E/F-1 Kalpoko C/E-1 Obuolių C/D-1 Vaistinės skg. E-1
Aušros takas E-2/1 Kanklių E-1 Ožeškienės C/D-2 Valančiaus A-2
Aviečių D-1 Kanto C-3/2 Pakopų t. B-2 Varėnos C-1
Balninkų F-1 Karaliaus Mindaugo Palangos B-3 Vasario 16-osios D-2
Bažnyčios F-4 A-3/E-4 Paminklų C-2 Vašuoklių D-1
Benediktinių B/C-2 Karo Ligoninės F-4 Papilio A-2 Veiverių A-3/B-4
Bernardinų skg. A-3 Kauko alėja F-2/1 Parodos F-2 Vidukalnio B/C-4
Betygalos A-1 Kauko laiptai F-2 Pilies A-2 Vileišio F-1
Birštono B-3 Kaunakiemio E/F-4 Poškos C-3 Vilniaus A-4/C-2
Brastos A-1 Kęstučio C/F-3 Prieplaukos krantinė A-3 Višinskio E/F-1
Braškių D-1 Krėvos F-3 Puodžių B/C-3 Vytauto pr. F-4/ F-2
Čepinskio A-4 Kriaušių C-2 Putinų E-1 Zamenhofo B-3
Dainavos E-1/F-2 Kumelių B-2 Putvinskio D/F-2 Zikaro C-2
Damijonaičio B-4 Kupiškio C/D-1 Radastų F-2 Žalioji C-2/D-1
Daugirdo A-3 Kurpių B-3 Raseinių C/D-1 Žemaičių D-1/F-2
Daukanto D/E-3/E-2 Kuzmos A/B-3 Santakos A-3 Žemaičių laiptai F-2
Daukšos B-3/2 Laisvės alėja C-2 /F-3 Sapiegos D-2 Žemaitės E-1

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