Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Wrocaw
No. 35, January - April 2016
No. 35 - 5z
inyourpocket.com
2016 European
Capital of Culture
Contents
Feature
2016 Capital of Culture
City Basics
Basic History
12
14
Leisure
72
Shopping
74
Directory
80
Hotels
82
88
Restaurants
22
Listings Index
90
Cafs
42
Features Index
91
Nightlife
44
City Map
92
94
Sightseeing
52
54
63
64
67
70
IN PRINT
ONLINE
ON YOUR MOBILE
Head to Barbara (p.7) to put your finger on the pulse of Wrocaws Capital of Culture campaign, and learn more about Wrocaws love of
Press materials ESK Wrocaw 2016
neon on p.62.
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Foreword
With the powder keg of 2016 ready to erupt as we write this,
its a time of milestone moments and great excitement in
Lower Silesias capital city. As we at IYP send our landmark
35th issue of Wrocaw In Your Pocket to press (huzzah!),
the city is celebrating our accomplishments in grand style
by kicking off a year-long programme of special cultural
events. Okay, so theres also the small official matter of
Wrocaw being European Capital of Culture in 2016
(page 6), but we like to think weve played our part in
bringing prestige and tourist interest to Wrocaw during
the twelve year spotlight weve put on this city. As weve
been saying for the past decade-plus, its no surprise
that Wrocaw has been selected to stand out amongst
Europes great cities. Situated sublimely on the Odra River,
Wrocaw easily holds its own with its more-celebrated
neighbours Vienna, Krakw and Prague in terms of aweinspiring architecture, postcard panoramas and dawnbreaking parties. Everything you need to know for a most
memorable time has been meticulously transcribed within
these pages, so please reward our hard work by giving it a
good read and keeping it securely in your pocket as you go
out and feel the Wroclove this season.
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 Krakw
wroclaw@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Company Office & Accounts
General Manager: Magorzata Drzszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
Circulation
15,000 copies published 3 times per year
Editorial
Editor: Garrett van Reed; Contributing writer: Janina Krzysiak;
Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan,
Anna bikowska;
Layout: Tom Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak;
Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise
stated; Cover sinuswelle | Dollar Photo Club
Sales & Circulation
Krakw/Katowice/Tarnw Manager:
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warsaw Manager: Klaudia Briss 606 749 643
Pozna/Wrocaw Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642
Gdask/d Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824
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ABOUT IYP
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17.01 SUNDAY
SPIRITS OF WROCAW (AWAKENING)
- OPENING CEREMONY
The Capital of Culture year will kick off in grand style with
a dramatic performance and parade directed by Chris
Baldwin, with costume design by Philippe Geffroy. Four giant
Spirits of Wrocaw - the Spirit of the Flood, the Spirit of Many
Faiths, the Spirit of Rebuilding, or the Spirit of Innovation will awaken and gradually make a 5-7 km journey from the
Wrocaw suburbs to the market square, where the four will
come together in a spectacular multi-media show that will
not only tell the rich history of the city but also completely
transform the market square and surrounding buildings as
part of the set. Further details of the event have not been
disclosed in an effort to surprise and stimulate the audience,
which everyone is invited to become a part of. Promising to
be one of the biggest events of any kind in the citys history,
Awakening will include over 1300 artists, 200 singers, 50
soldiers, 20 outstanding musicians, 300 cyclists, 30 light
installations, 30 gigantic effigies and five trams.QA/B3,
Market Square. Event starts at 16:00.
15.01 FRIDAY - 13.03 SUNDAY
SOUNDS - EDUARDO CHILLIDA
As a gesture of dialogue and solidarity with Wrocaws
partner Capital of Culture, San Sebastin, this exhibition
of works by Basque abstract sculptor Eduardo Chillida will
be on display at the BWA Awangarda Gallery from January
until March.QB3, Galeria Awangarda, ul. Wita Stwosza
32, tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82, www.bwa.wroc.pl. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Admission 8/4z, Wed
free.
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FORGOTTEN CITY
Unconventional artistic events and concerts will take
place throughout the entire year in forgotten spaces
including townhouse stairwells, historic courtyards, and
dingy underpasses. The programme is undisclosed at press
time, so keep close watch.QEvent takes place in various
locations.
BY TRAIN
Wrocaw is well-designed for train travel, boasting a
gloriously renovated main train station that was at one
time the largest in Europe. Fully modernised in 2012 before
the Euro Cup, today Wrocaws Dworzec Gwny is arguably
the nicest train station in Poland, making a wonderful
impression on all those who arrive via the rails. Located just
south of the market square, from here it is possible to catch
quick domestic connections to Krakw (3.5hrs), Warsaw
(4hrs) and Pozna (2.5hrs), but international destinations
like Berlin and Prague require a changing of trains. Miej
podry!
WROCAW MAIN TRAIN STATION
The beneficiary of a massive modernisation project,
Wrocaws main train station has never looked better.
Completed in 1857, this grandiose Neo-Gothic building,
with its decadent exterior of turrets and crenellations, looks
more like a storybook palace than a modern transportation
hub. Just south of the Old Town, Wrocaw Gwny is
8
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BY BUS
CAR RENTAL
Internationally trusted service
offering a range of vehicles
from sedan to mini-vans. Avis
also has a desk at the airport but you must arrange in
advance to pick up or drop off a car there.QA5, ul.
Pisudskiego 49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel. (+48) 601
35 48 11, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun
open on request.
A wide range of cars from
the baby Fiat Panda to the
spacious Mercedes E220 CDi
station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted
steering. Satellite navgation systems are also available.
Special rates offered to those who order through the
Joka website.QB5, ul. Kociuszki 34 (Paacyk), tel.
(+48) 601 54 53 69, www.joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Sun open on request.
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TAXIS
LUX TAXI
Comfortable
and
reliable,
Lux Taxi prides itself on its
competitive rates, clean cars
and well-mannered drivers, all of
whom speak English or German,
and some are even licenced tour
guides. 6-8 person taxi vans are available, and you can
conveniently pay with by credit card.Qtel. (+48) 71
196 23, www.luxradiotaxi.pl.
PARTNER TAXI
Operating clean, recognisable
cars of the same distinctive
make (Volkswagen Passats or
Skoda Superbs), from Partner
you can request an Englishspeaking driver or carseat for your child, and when
youve blown all your cash at the bar you can pay with a
credit card to get home.Qtel. (+48) 71 196 27, www.
partner-taxi.pl.
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SPECIAL WEEKEND
OFFER FOR YOUR
CAR RENTAL.
ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC,
GET ON THE OPEN ROAD
AND EXPLORE POLAND
WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL
PRICES FROM 98 PLN*.
11
City Basics
FACTS & FIGURES
MARKET VALUES
TERRITORY
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Lithuania
(103km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).
9.70 z
1.69 z
23.99 z
2.99 z
8.00 z
3.69 z
15.00 z
4.49 z
3.00 z
2.35
0.39
5.54
0.69
1.85
0.85
3.46
1.04
0.69
City Basics
waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying
this seemingly silly rule is the fact that the local city police
(Stra Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100z fine for
crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a
100z fine when the walk light is red. And dont think you
are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You are subject to the
law too and your non-residency means you will be forced
to pay the fine on the spot.
MONEY
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100z notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food
franchise and bar will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for
such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming Kantor. Kantors will
often provide better value than the banks in your home
country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very
wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to
tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best
rate. For a list of kantors in Wrocaw that wont rip you off,
see page 80.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist
destination, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making
the country less of a bargain than it was five years ago.
Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural
venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in
contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically
costs 15-25z, while admission to most museums usually
costs between 5z and 15z.
RELIGION
According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles
are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on
baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is
probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one
of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one
thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism,
fighting against pagan invasions and looking to religion
for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland
was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the
Church for solace; during the communist era, underground
resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a
genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way
more profound than cynics in the West can understand.
Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may
find the Polish enthusiasm for religion a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.
Tourists should remember while visiting Wrocaws many
churches that these arent museums, but active places of
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
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LANGUAGE SMARTS
Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be
terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
nonetheless smooth your time in Wroclaw and may even
win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of
the most difficult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation
Tak
Nie
Cze
Dzie dobry
Dobry wieczr
Do widzenia
Dobranoc
Prosz
Dzikuj
Przepraszam
(Tahk)
(Nyeh)
(Cheshch)
(Jen doh-bri)
(Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
(Doh veet-zen-ya)
(Doh-brah-noats)
(Prosheh)
(Jen-koo-yeh)
(Psheh-prasham)
My name is...
Im from England.
Do you speak English?
I dont speak Polish.
I dont understand.
Two beers, please.
Cheers!
Where are the toilets?
You are beautiful.
I love you.
Please take me home.
Call me!
Mam na imi...
Jestem z Anglii
Czy mwisz po angielsku?
Nie mwi po polsku.
Nie rozumiem.
Dwa piwa prosz.
Na zdrowie!
Gdzie s toalety?
Jeste pikna.
Kocham ci.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
Zadzwo do mnie!
Airport
Train station
Bus station
One ticket to
Lotnisko
Dworzec PKP
Dworzec PKS
Jeden bilet do
(Lot-nees-ko)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh)
13
Basic History
Wrocaw has always been the
dominant capital of Silesia, a
region whose story begins
with the establishment of a
stronghold along the Amber
Road and Via Regia trading
routes on what is today
Ostrw Tumski (p.64) by the
Slavic lanie tribe in the 8th
century. Absorbed into Czech
Bohemia, the expanding
fortress was first recorded in the 10th century under the
name Vratislavia, thought to be derived from the name
of the Bohemian duke Vratislav I. In 990, however, the Piast
duke Mieszko I conquered the region and by 1000AD the
city had expanded to 1,000 inhabitants, prompting Polish
king Bolesaw I to establish Silesias first bishopric on the
site of todays Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (p.66).
Over the next century, religious and political conflict saw
the region pass back forth between Poland and Bohemia
numerous times, before finding some stability under the
Silesian Piast dynasty who ruled the area during the so
called Age of Fragmentation (1138-1320) when Poland was
divided into autonomous principalities. A Mongol raid in
1241 devastated the city, but it was rebuilt under Magdeburg
Law with city planners expanding it to incorporate many of
the outlying settlements, shifting the city centre away from
Ostrw Tumski (which became the citys religious centre) to
the other side of the river, building a moat and defensive
walls around it, and laying out the market square (p.55) as
it appears to this day. Settlers flocked to the city, and ethnic
Germans soon became the most dominant demographic.
The Piast line petered out in 1335 when Duke Henryk VI died
without an heir and earlier treaties dictated the transfer of the
region to Bohemian rule once again. Under the Luxemburg
dynasty the city generally prospered, but the dominance
of the merchant class, which controlled the Town Council,
lead to strife with the church and lower classes resulting in
outright revolt in 1418 when guildsmen stormed the Town
Hall and beheaded the mayor. Printing with movable type
began in 1475, with many variations of the citys name
appearing, including Wretslav, Wratislav, Prezzla, Presslay
and Bresslau (p.53). By 1526 - when Bohemian King Louis
Jagiellons death ended prolonged fighting over Bohemian
succession and transferred the city to the Austrian
Habsburg dynasty - the Reformation had reached the
Silesian capital and Protestantism had become the dominant
religion. During the Thirty Years War (1618-48), the city
fought to maintain its Protestantism, and though occupied,
eluded physical destruction, emerging from the conflict as
one of the only Silesian cities to remain Protestant under
Habsburg rule. However plague and war had taken their
toll on the population, cutting it in half. During the Counterreformation, many Catholic orders were encouraged by the
emperor to settle in Silesias capital, including the Jesuits who
founded the Wrocaw Jesuit Academy in 1702, which would
later grow into todays Wrocaw University (p56).
14 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
Basic History
HISTORICAL TIMELINE
15
ART GALLERIES
FOOD ART GALLERYQA2, ul. Ksicia Witolda 1, lok.1,
tel. (+48) 885 51 54 04, www.foodartgallery.pl. Open 12:00
- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
GALERIA AWANGARDAQB3, ul. Wita Stwosza 32,
tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82, www.bwa.wroc.pl. Open 11:00
- 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. From March 14 open 11:00 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4z,
Wed free.
MIA ART GALLERY
Mia is a bright and modern art gallery that recently
popped up on Wrocaws cultural map thanks to the All
That Art! Foundation. The exhibitions here are constantly
changing, with a new one opening every 2-3 weeks. The
gallery also aims to connect art and business by hosting
special lectures, training courses, and presentations.QF4,
ul. w. Mikoaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www.
miaartgallery.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
POLISH POSTER GALLERY
QE4, ul. w. Mikoaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11,
www.polishposter.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission free. U
CINEMAS
LOWER SILESIAN FILM CENTRE
QA5, ul. Pisudskiego 64a, tel. (+48) 71 793 79 00,
www.dcf.wroclaw.pl. Box office open depending on
repertoire. Tickets 10-26z.
16 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
BALLET
09.02 TUESDAY
SUKHISHVILI GEORGIAN NATIONAL BALLET
The National Ballet of Georgia was founded in 1945 as
the Georgian State Dance Company, a Soviet-era name
that was shed in time. The group managed to popularise
traditional Georgian dance and music at such prestigious
venues as the Met, La Scala, and the Coliseum. And now
for a mind-blowing fact for all you Doctor Who fans: it
was a performance by Sukhishvili Ballet that inspired
Terry Nation to create Daleks - apparently the longskirted female performers looked mighty robotic?QI4,
Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1. Event starts at
19:00. Tickets 90-180z. Available at www.eventim.
pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00).
10.04 SUNDAY
BOLSHOI BALLET LIVE: DON QUIXOTE
Don Quixote in ballet form? Why not. Originally
choreographed by French ballet master Marius Petipa
in 1869 (to music composed by Ludwig Minkus), this
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
NATIONAL MUSEUM
CONCERTS
14.01 THURSDAY
ETHNO JAZZ FESTIVAL: BALKANOPHONIA
This Serbian folk band founded by guitarist Nikola
Starcevic play Balkan music with Gypsy, Latino, classical,
and pop influences; melodies that will sound even better
in the interior of Wrocaws Stary Klasztor (Old Monastery).
QC3, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1. Concert starts
at 20:00. Tickets 25-40z. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00).
01.02 MONDAY
TRICKY PRESENTS SKILLED MECHANICS
English trip hop musician Tricky is returning to Poland
with a new album and a new group - both called Tricky
presents Skilled Mechanics. His new collaborators are DJ
Milo of The Wild Bunch and drummer Luke Harris.QC3,
Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1. Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 85-100z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 21:00).
11.02 THURSDAY
ETHNO JAZZ FESTIVAL:
CARMEN SOUZA & THEO PASCAL
Portuguese - Cabo Verdean singer Carmen Souza,
considered to be Cesria voras successor, will be
presenting her newest album Epistola, recorded with
bassist Theo Pascal.QC3, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego
1. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 45-80z. Available at
www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00
- 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
20.02 SATURDAY
ADRIAN BELEW POWER TRIO
Its a bird! Its a plane! Its... Adrian Belew! Also
accompanied by drummer Eric Slick and bassist Julie
Slick in whats known as the Adrian Belew Power Trio.
Formed in 2006, this group headed by American multiinstrumentalist and music producer Belew, who is
known for his impressionistic guitar playing and frequent
use of animal- and machine-like sounds, released
their first studio album, e, in 2009; for the most part,
though, they simply tour around the US and Europe.
QSala Koncertowa Radia Wrocaw, ul. Karkonoska
10 (Krzyki). Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 109-129z.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50,
B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
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17
EXHIBITIONS
23.10 FRIDAY - 31.05 TUESDAY
INTERACTIVE EXHIBITION IN THE EARTH
This open, interactive space is part of Patrycja Mastejs
Self-service Museum series, with seeks to deliver a multi18 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
FESTIVALS
06.02 SATURDAY
TRANCEFORMATIONS
Get ready to be put in a trance at the Centennial Hall. The
line-up includes Markus Schulz, Mark Sixma, Mark Sherry,
Photographer, Matt Bukovski, DJ ALEX, onTune, DJ Kros, and
DJ Smart.QI4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1. Event
starts at 19:00. Tickets 79z. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00).
08.04 FRIDAY - 16.04 SATURDAY
MUSICA POLONICA NOVA
Its the 30th anniversary of the New Polish Music festival!
This years line-up includes Cellonet, defunensemble,
LUX:NM, Musiques Nouvelles, {oh!} Historical Orchestra,
the National Forum of Music Symphonic Orchestra, and the
New Music Orchestra.QA4, National Forum of Music, Pl.
Wolnoci 1, tel. (+48) 71 342 20 01, www.nfm.wroclaw.
pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time.
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19
23.01
24.01
7 P.M. WARSAW
PALLADIUM THEATRE
6 P.M. WROCLAW
RADIO WROCLAW CONCERT-HALL
WWW.STAGEPRODUCTION.PL
MISC. EVENTS
24.01 SUNDAY
HENRY ROLLINS
Like a true modern Renaissance man, Henry Rollins pops
up in almost too many places - be it on Jackass, MTVs
20 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
SPECIAL EVENTS
10.01 SUNDAY
GREAT ORCHESTRA OF CHRISTMAS CHARITY
Its that time of year again - the day when literally every single
person you encounter on the street will be sporting a red heart
sticker (and those who dont will be endlessly harassed by
unnaturally cheerful people with collection boxes). What are
they for? Theyre proof that you donated to the Christmas Charity
to purchase medical equipment for children and seniors in need.
A great cause, surely; the day will be wrapped up with a concert
and fireworks.QB3, Pl. Nowy Targ, www.wosp.org.pl.
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WROCAW OPERA
Marek Grotowski
10.04 SUNDAY
HALKA
If youre planning on visiting the opera during your stay in
Poland, we recommend going for something authentically
Polish - in this case, Halka, an 1848 opera by composer
Stanisaw Moniuszko, with a libretto by poet Wodzimierz
Wolski. A tale about the tragic love of highlander girl
Halkas love for noble-born Janusz, it depicts scenes of
19th-century Polish highlanders and nobility.QA4,
Wrocaw Opera, ul. widnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 370
88 80, www.opera.wroclaw.pl. Event starts at 17:00.
Tickets 30-110z. Available at Wrocaw Opera box office
(Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00).
THEATRE
20.02 SATURDAY
NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE IN HD:
BEHIND THE BEAUTIFUL FOREVERS
Step (metaphorically) into modern-day Mumbai with this
National Theatre staging of Behind the Beautiful Forevers,
a play by English playwright and screenwriter David
Hare, based on the 2012 non-fiction book by Katherine
Boo. Directed by Rufus Norris, starring Sartaj Garewal, Tia
Palamathanan, Stephanie Street, Hiran Abeysekera, and
Vincent Ebrahim. Shown live on the big screen.QA3,
Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel.
(+48) 71 786 65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Spectacle starts at
18:00. Tickets 40/30z. Box office open from 09:00 to 15
minutes after last show.
25.02 THURSDAY
NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE IN HD: AS YOU LIKE IT
In true 21st-century fashion, Shakespeare will be
transmitted live from London in HD quality. This version of
the Bards romantic comedy in five acts, directed by Polly
Findlay, will star Rosalie Craig, Jonathan Dryden Taylor,
and Patsy Ferran. Keep in mind that the performance
will last an entire four hours!QA3, Nowe Horyzonty,
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65
66, www.kinonh.pl. Spectacle starts at 19:45. Tickets
40/30z. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after
last show.
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21
Restaurants
Fall down the rabbit hole of urban art and creative cuisine at Czary Mary (p.27).
CHEAP
Wrocaw is full of cheap eats. Try BLT & Flatbreads
(American), and see our Quick Eats section (p.26) for local
highlights like Las, and Patelnia. If its Polish youre after,
head to Chatka Przy Jatkach or Konspira, and later on hit
any Polish Snacks & Shots bar (p.49) for a late night refuel.
LADS
Bernard (International) offers litre steins of Czech beer
and plates piled high with hot snacks for sharing, while
the costumed gents of Pod Fredra (Polish) will keep you
plied with beer and brats until you burst your buttons.
Alternatively, head to The Winners Pub (p.49) for precision
steaks with a view of the match.
COUPLES
See our picks under Splurge, all of which will impress with
their high quality food, go for dinner and a concert at
Vertigo (International), or wine and dine on the water in
OK Wine Bar (International).
FAMILIES
Kids get a kick out of dining on the water in Barka Tumska
(International), where they get their own menu and play
area. Alternatively, have fun watching them search for the
secret room in Konspira (Polish). For further options look
for the Child-friendly symbol T at the end of each listing.
SPECIAL DIET
Vegans have it good in Wrocaw, just see our Vegetarian
section (p.40). Vega is right on the market square, raw
foodies have Machina Organika, and fine gluten-free
dining can be found in La Maddalena (Mediterranean).
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Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking
T Child-friendly
6 Animal friendly
B Outside seating
S Take away
V Home delivery
W Wi-fi connection
E Live music
AMERICAN
BLT & FLATBREADS
This upscale American-inspired (free ketchup without
asking! large sodas!) sandwich and salad bar deftly
balances a somewhat grimy dive-bar location (thats a
good thing) with a sharp, clean, high-ceilinged interior
to great effect. The menu would hardly be inventive if not
for the fact that a decent sandwich is a rare thing in this
country; as such its a revelation. Choose from a wide range
of quickly-served variations on the burger, BLT and taco.
The pizzas are delicious, the salads served on flatbread are
creative, the presentation is top notch and the prices are
fair and affordable across the board. Open late, so youve
got time to get a couple cheeky ones in with the crowd
stumbling past the window before stopping by, or just do
your drinking here.QA3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48) 71
796 33 44, www.blt.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(19-28z). GSW
MOABURGER
Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very
proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography all over
the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic American
burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes, theyve
certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a
plate just wouldnt do) piled high with the topping of your
choice, and you might even consider splitting one with a
friend if you have any other meals planned later in the day.
Easy to eat and darn enjoyable, though youll discover its
not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries, and
drink coming in over 30z.QA3, Pl. Solny 10, tel. (+48)
71 330 74 82, www.moaburger.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (11-28z). T6GSW
RODEO GRILL STEAK HOUSE
Hardly the kitsch cowboy cuisine you might expect from
the name, this steakhouse maintains the high standards
of Galeria Italiano - Wrocaws modern restaurant corridor.
Burgers are sequestered to only a brief requisite mention
at the end of the placemat menu, which is primarily a
range of steaks including T-bone, porterhouse and ribeye, prepared in the open kitchen in the corner. Our roast
beef was commendable, but if you want your meat other
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ul. Noownicza 1D
071- 341-05-65
info@lebistrotparisien.pl
www.lebistrotparisien.pl
23
Restaurants
than medium rare, make sure you say so (no one asked us).
An excellent beer list includes Svyturys Baltas, La Trappe,
Bishops Finger, Opat and others specifically selected to
complement steak. The simple, airy interior is neither too
classy nor too casual and has a friendly family atmosphere
that keeps its tables as full as its patrons.QA2, ul.
Wizienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. (14-99z). 6GSW
SOCZEWKA
A wide and nuanced assortment of delicious gourmet
burgers on the market square, including the guac- and
nacho-loaded chipotle burger, a chorizo burger, beet
burger, salmon burger and more. Couples can order the
mini-burger set for 52z, or plonk down with your friends
for a platter of worldly whiskies. Theres also a wide array of
mojitos and beer cocktails, and seating opposite the Town
Hall, or in the sharp interior. When were going through
cheddar cheese withdrawal, this is our sanatorium; in
fact, its hard to over-praise this place - its just that good.
QA3, ul. Rynek 20/21, tel. (+48) 516 01 51 65, www.
soczewka.wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun
11:00 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (27-83z). TU
GSW
SZTRASS BURGER
Though elusively located, the word is definitely out on
the cleverly-named Sztrass Burger, which stays packed
all afternoon with students, hipsters and families alike,
eager to get their mouths around Wrocaws tastiest
burgers. The menu is curt and creative; be bold and try
a Karolburger whose patty is a mix of beef, anchovies,
blue cheese and chives, and comes topped with
arugula, caramelised pear with ginger, and a pepperlemon sauce. Burgers conveniently come in two sizes
for varying appetites, vegetarians have some killers
options as well, and dont miss the sweet potato fries.
With a simple interior free of the feeble attempts to be
American that other burger places make, this is pure
Wrocaw; bear in mind, however, that you may have to
wait not only for your food, but also a table.QA3, ul.
Psie Budy 7/9, tel. (+48) 503 93 79 87. Open 12:00
- 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. (15-22z). 6UGS
W
FRENCH
LE BISTROT PARISIEN
One of our local favourites for a long time running, this
casual modern bistro openly pays homage to Paris with
framed period photography, fine wines and a lunch menu
redolent of dining in the French capital. The food - from
the steak in Roquefort sauce to the fresh mussels and
creme brulee - is of exceptional quality across the board,
making the relaxed atmosphere all the more refreshing.
A perfect place for convincing your company that you
have good taste, Le Bistrot is a popular congregation point
for ex-pats as well. The staff are very friendly, flirty and
accommodating, and therefore in no way reminiscent of
24 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
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Restaurants
the eating out experiences weve had in the real Paris. Wed
rather be here.QA2, ul. Noownicza 1d, tel. (+48) 71 341
05 65, www.lebistrotparisien.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (2959z). GSW
GREEK
AKROPOLIS
Wrocaw has a surprisingly sizable Greek population,
which explains the number of upscale Greek restaurants
right around the Rynek, Akropolis foremost among them.
No breezy seaside villa decor here - Akropolis is all dark
wood, wine-warm elegance almost compelling you to buy
an obligatory bottle of red. The atmosphere is a bit of a
throwback and has a certain Cosa Nostra appeal, with welldressed patrons wining and dining their dames in what is
still one of the best ethnic restaurants in the region. The
menu of seafood and Greek meats from the grill hits the
mark - we ordered lamb and were not disappointed.QA3,
Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 343 14 13, www.akropolis.
wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (2060z). GSW
INDIAN
MASALA INDIAN RESTAURANT
Well-positioned just off the market square, Masala does
traditional Indian food in a more contemporary European
style as Indian chefs work in plain view behind two long
bars in the offbeat granite grey interior full of comical,
conical hanging lamps, pop art elephants and colourful
seat cushions. The 22-35z Express Lunch (served 12:00
- 15:30, Mon-Fri ) fills the seats and represents not only
a great bargain, but a great deal of delicious food. The
regular menu hits all the marks and portions are larger
than most places, earning our earnest recommendation.
For those travelling with little ones, note that a babysitter
is on hand 12:00 - 18:00 on weekends.QB3, ul. Kunicza
3, tel. (+48) 71 302 69 49, www.masala-grill.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-70z).
TUGSW
INTERNATIONAL
AQUARELLE
The flagship restaurant of Wrocaws Radisson Hotel, and
famed for its immaculate breakfast buffet (Mon - Fri 06:30
- 10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 11:00). Elegant and extremely
professional, ala carte diners can choose from a diverse
menu of dishes ranging from the pricey but proven veal
tenderloin, to fish and pasta, and will notice a good
selection of cheap, simple kids dishes (all priced around
20z): a rarity in Poland. A seasonal courtyard terrace
complete with lawn is also an added bonus for families
searching for somewhere to eat.QC3, ul. Purkyniego 10
(Radisson Blu Hotel Wroclaw), tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00,
www.radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. Open 06:30 23:00. (24-95z). TUGW
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Restaurants
QUICK EATS
For more fast dining options, get away from the fast
food franchises and get adventurous by visiting a milk
bar (p.40), Polish Snacks & Shots Bar (p.49), or one of
the fantastic local institutions listed below.
SEAFOOD
LAS/ZUPA
Building off the runaway success of their soup kitchen
at ul. Szewska 24/26 (B-3), Zupa has opened a second,
more proper location to purvey their delicious soups
- this one featuring more tables, an expanded (but
concise) menu of entrees, and open later. Dubbed
Las (Forest), the interior offers plenty of nice design
touches and a mezzanine, but the space is somewhat
poorly organised, and its popularity means it can be
just as packed as the original location. Its not hard
to understand why - the food is cheap and delicious,
and theres a certain camaraderie between the clients
and staff that makes you feel like youre supporting
your friends just by being here. Note that the soups (5
veggie, 5 with meat) are served till they run out and
after 17:30 they are half price. Recommended.QA3,
ul. Igielna 14, tel. (+48) 733 87 33 07, www.zupa.
wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (4-20z). 6GS
W
PATELNIA
One of our favourite spots in Wrocaw, this tiny food
hatch next to Kalambur purveys fine fast food at
fabulously affordable prices. For winter theyve basically
changed everything and are now focussed on soup
- namely steaming bowls of Asian noodles and veg.
Choose between 350 or 800ml(!) of ramen, udon or sen
mee noodles with the veggie and meat components of
your choice (pork, tofu, dumplings, shrimp), select your
spice quotient, grab your chopsticks and go. Screw
table service, this is gourmet street food that youll love,
and its open late on weekends.QB3, ul. Kunicza
29A. Open 11:00 - 17:00. (8-18z). GS
ZZ TOP
The Zs stand for zupa (soup) and zapiekanki - a filling
Polish fast food specialty that is essentially the bottom
half of a baguette with mushrooms, cheese and the
additional toppings of your choice. This is definitely
the place to try one, as the bread and other ingredients
are actually fresh, not frozen (sadly, this is not the norm
elsewhere). As for the soups, they change daily and
can be ordered in 3 sizes; during our visit spicy chilli,
apple-onion, split pea, and bean-bacon were on offer.
Wrocaws fast food culture is steadily improving, and
this is one of the places leading the charge.QA3, ul.
Kazimierza Wielkiego 25/1A, tel. (+48) 518 29 42 74.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
NS
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Restaurants
BARKA TUMSKA
Nestled between the proliferation of islands and bridges
just near Ostrw Tumski, this fantastic river barge offers five
unique dining spaces over three levels, including the Captains
mess and (in spring and summer only) the outstanding upper
deck - ideal for taking in the sights and sunshine. The diverse
menu of breakfast eats (served all day from 09:00), budget
sandwiches and seasonal Mediterranean-inspired cuisine
(the menu changes every 3 months or so) makes Barka ideal
for brunch, stowing away with a hot date, or bringing the
entire family: kids get their own menu and play area and will
love exploring the corridors of this unique river diner.QC1,
ul. Wyspa Sodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 77, www.hoteltumski.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (25-38z). TUG
BERNARD
Well go along with the crowd and admit that this trendy
brewery/restaurant is one of the most alluring locales on the
market square. A stylish, airy, three-level interior with a long
inviting bar, Bernard is characterised by closely arranged tables
which dont offer any privacy but contribute to the casual
atmosphere where the menu is your placemat and its perfectly
acceptable to just enjoy a drink without eating. To that end, they
have their own beer in dark and light, as well as bottled choices
including a decent amber and four alcky-free flavours which we
wouldnt know anything about; enjoy their draughts in glasses
growing from 0.4 to 2 litres. The food is nothing to overlook with
a menu ranging from nachos to Polish classics like golonka and
the upper level tables in the window are a great place to take
your date, but reserve ahead.QB3, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344
10 54, www.bernard.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
10:30 - 23:30. (31-89z). T6UEGSW
BRASSERIE 27
Fancy and indeed flavoursome, this place is owned by the hotel
Europeum but worthy of its separate entrance. A mega modern,
glass fronted appearance is complemented by designer hanging
lights and dark woods. The reassuringly short menu starts with
Italian and spans steak and also fish dishes, staying mostly within
the bounds of Mediterranean cuisine. Friendly service and an
award winning chef make this one of the better places in the city
to eat.QA3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a (Europeum Hotel),
tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, www.brasserie27.com. Open 07:00 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (30-72z). UGSW
CZARY MARY
Inside the new Ibis Styles hotel, the design of this charming
restaurant is modern and somewhat minimal, enhanced by
high contrast colours, floor to ceiling windows looking onto
the train station across the street, and - most of all - delightful
Alice in Wonderland murals by local artist Szur Szur. The
service is classy and the menu is a concise list of beautifully
presented entrees that combine unique flavours into creative
creations. For such a seemingly casual, almost whimsical,
environment, this is surprisingly upscale dining, and a great
choice for planning meetings or a meal immediately upon
arrival by train.QC5, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71
733 48 20, www.czarymary-restauracja.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (24-74z). TUGSW
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27
Restaurants
DOBRA KARMA
This health-minded and socially conscious slow food eatery
turns out popular whole-meal pizzas and delicious dinners
that differ each day, depending on the season. Though not
strictly vegetarian, caveman diet deniers will have plenty
to choose from, and theres always at least one vegan and
gluten-free entree. In accordance with the name, good
vibes abound, and youre likely to find it packed with
students, young families and hipsters from the Nadodrze
neighbourhood.QA1, ul. Cybulskiego 17, tel. (+48) 517
65 67 50. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (18-30z). T6GSW
Perfect location
Polish and international cuisine
Aquarelle Restaurant
Purkyniego 10, Wrocaw
Phone: 71 375 00 00
reservations.wroclaw@radissonblu.com
LWIA BRAMA
One of the few places youll actually find anything to
eat if youre strolling Ostrw Tumski, Lwia Brama offers
some great sidewalk seating in the warmer months from
which you can enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for
the lamplighter to come round and perform that most
romantic of Wrocaw rituals - the daily lighting of the
districts gaslamps. In winter the historic underground
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Restaurants
cellars arent as cold and sprawling as you might expect,
and they also serve as a gallery for local artists (all paintings
are for sale). The menu here sticks to Polish and European
standards, with some dishes prepared in the sous-vide
method.QC2, ul. Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 880 00 27 42,
www.lwiabrama.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
(26-69z). GSW
MARINA
Seafood and pasta on Wroclaws mini-marina, with a small
terrace offering views over the canal. Theyve re-styled the
interior into more of an upscale bar/lounge and the outdoor
garden area is great in the evening for pleasant views and
quiet conversation plus a new exclusive VIP room. If the
weather is too chilly head inside for a cosy cocktail and pay
close attention to their wine list as bottles are available for
take away as well.QB2, ul. Ksicia Witolda 2, tel. (+48)
502 13 08 93, www.marina.wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(33-80z). T6UGSW
NEW
NADODRZE CAFE RESTO BAR
Another hip addition to the ever-improving Nadodrze
district, this is a modernly-decorated cafe-resto-bar combo
serving AeroPress coffee, wine, draught beer, a bunch of
good lunch options (including fish, pasta, burgers, and
steak), and even breakfast pancakes and eggs. If youre
feeling whimsical, sit on one of three swings hanging near
the front window and wave to random passers-by.QB1,
ul. Drobnera 26a, tel. (+48) 885 02 03 03. Open 10:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (20-49z). T6UG
SW
OD KOOCHNI
Full to the brim during lunchtime, this cosy and friendly
hole-in-the-wall restaurant offers ever-changing vegetarian and omnivore meals of the day, plus delicious coffee
and cake. The open kitchen lets you sneak a peek at food
prep, and the layout (long table + windowside counter
seating) compels you to get friendly with fellow diners. If
youre thirsty, grab a glass and fill it up with water from the
conveniently located tap - Od Koochni is taking part in an
initiative to popularise the consumption of Wrocaws safe
and clean municipal water (and its one of the only Polish food establishments where you dont have to pay for
your H2O).QG3, ul. Olenicka 7A, tel. (+48) 603 88 63
98, www.odkoochni.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 18:00. Closed Sun. (22-29z). TGS
OK WINE BAR
Elegant, glitzy, and now located right on the waterfront,
OK Wine Bar has used an address change to emphatically
establish themselves as one of the citys most refined
destinations for business and romance. The decor is white,
bright and modern, with floor-to-ceiling windows letting in
lots of natural light by day, and an intoxicating city shimmer
after dark. The seasonal menu emphasises local products
and includes hors doeuvres and a daily three-course lunch
from 12:00-16:00 for 36z (or limit it to two courses for 29z).
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dining venue
OK Wine Bar
Wine Bar / restaurant / shOp
Wrocaw, ul.Ksicia Witolda 1
tel. 71 714 21 26 | www.okwinebar.com
29
Restaurants
Like the menu, the wine list is surprisingly short but
resoundingly robust (with glasses beginning from 10z), but
OK also operates as a shop with over 2000 world vintages
you can take home.QB3, ul. Ksicia Witolda 1, tel. (+48)
71 714 21 26, www.okwinebar.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (40-90z). 6UEGXW
NEW
POCHLEBNA
Be it a lazy Saturday morning or a gentle ease into a busy
work day, Pochlebna is a good breakfast option (served
until 12:00, weekends 13:00), offering fresh-out-of-theoven baked goods, a selection of homemade spreads,
organic eggs, French toast, and tasty coffee in a bright
and modern two-level interior. Traditionally-baked breads
and pastries are the specialty here, but also indulge in
a selection of health-minded soups, salads, and main
courses throughout the day, not to mention all the
delicious desserts and wine. From the same team behind
the excellent Szynkarnia next door, these two venues are
teaming up to bring some much needed manners to Pasa
Niepolda.QA3, ul. w. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 733 03
50 81. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (1833z). T6UGSW
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Restaurants
WROCAW IYP ONLINE
Due to space restrictions in our print guide, were
actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent
content we have on Wrocaw and the surrounding
region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website
- poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much
of the country we cover, and to download guides to
Warsaw, Krakw, Gdask, Pozna, Katowice and
other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small
sampling of great Wrocaw-related content we didnt
have room for this issue, with links to where youll find
it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!
GROSS-ROSEN
Located 65km from Wrocaw,
the small village of GrossRosen (today Rogonice) was
the site of one of the largest
concentration camps in the
Third Reich, famous even
then for its harsh conditions
and high mortality rate.
Today the site is a museum and memorial to the
victims; learn more here:
iyp.me/grossrosen
THE BEER WAR OF 1380
In the citys early Bohemian days, a quibble between
the Church and City Council over beer sales blew up
into a Chicago gangland-style turf war, with absurd
and disastrous results: Ostrw Tumski burned,
the mayor was lynched, and beheadings were
rife. Learn the bizarre and fascinating story of the
Vretslav Beer War:
iyp.me/beerwar
THE RED BARON
Born in Breslau/Wrocaw,
Manfred von Richthofen
was the top fighter pilot in
the aerial dogfights of The
Great War. A legend in his
own time, he was awarded
Germanys greatest military
honour after his 16th kill
en route to upwards of 75, and his death remains
controversial. Learn more in our feature:
iyp.me/redbaron
FESTUNG BRESLAU
In 1944 Hitler declared Breslau a closed military fortress
to be defended from the advancing Soviet army at
all costs. The ensuing siege lasted for 80 days, cost
thousands of lives and left the city a smouldering heap
of ruins. IYP tells the full story, including where to see
traces of wartime Breslau in Wrocaw today:
iyp.me/festungbreslau
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Restaurants
RESTAURACJA ACQUARIO
The upscale restaurant on the rooftop terrace of the legendary
Hotel Monopol, Acquario offers an enticing, eclectic menu
with a special flair for seafood and innovative tasting menus
with 3, 5, 7 or 9 dishes to choose from. If youre anything like
us, however, youll be just as interested in the world-class wine
list. Theres really no better way to relax than with a bottle of
red enjoying the fabulous views over Wrocaw through rosetinted glasses.QA4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel),
tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.
pl. Open 18:00 - 23:00. 3 dishes (120z), 5 (150z), 7 (210z)
and 9 (290z). UGW
RESTAURACJA EUROPEJSKA
This newly renovated restaurant on the ground floor of the
Hotel Europejski has gone through a similar rebirth. The
classic environs are highlighted by the same inviting orange
and warm wood tones of the hotel which match the modern
Polish and transcontinental European menu perfectly. The
mix of classic dishes transcends the usual Hotel Restaurant
fare and the presentation and service is truly exceptional.
Even if youre not a guest we suggest stopping in for their
comprehensive breakfast buffet (06:30-10:00) - a great way
to start any day.QB5, ul. Pisudskiego 88 (Europejski
Hotel), tel. (+48) 509 35 67 92, www.europejskiwroclaw.
pl. Open 06:30 - 21:00. (12-59z). TUGSW
RESTAURACJA PATIO
An absolutely excellent restaurant, well worth visiting
whether youre staying in the upstairs hotel or not; in fact
walk-ins would be wise to take advantage of the business
lunch (served Mon-Fri, 12:00-16:00), which offers a
delicious meal that shows off the skill and craft of the chef
and is worth much more than the 28z you pay. Choose
between two dining areas - the bright, open building
atrium, or the more elegant burgundy and black dining
room with arm chairs and creative glass chandeliers adding
a bit of class. Also they now offer gluten free dishes and a
kids menu. Recommended.QA3, ul. Kiebanicza 24-25,
tel. (+48) 71 375 04 17, www.restauracjapatio.eu. Open
06:45 - 22:30. (30-100z). TUGW
STARY KLASZTOR (THE OLD MONASTERY)
Though rebuilt after the war, this former Dominican convent
dates back to the early 14th century and was previously the
site of a very upscale restaurant - a fact which hints at the
wow factor of its interior. Full of gorgeous architectural
details and high arching ceilings, its a bit like dining in a
cathedral, but dont be mistaken - you wont be cloistered off
from society here. Aimed at Wrocaws student population,
theres an eclectic concert schedule with live music three
nights a week on average in the gothic cellars (check their
FB page for details), and a large year-round beer garden. On
top of that, the full menu of European eats is quite good
and the beer selection is great. If youre really pinching
pennies, the attached Bistro Nowy Targ is super cheap.
Worth investigating for eats, drinks and hijinks.QC3, ul.
Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, www.staryklasztor.
com.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00. (20-89z). 6EGSW
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Restaurants
SUKIENNICE 7
Certainly one of the most elegant, upscale dining
establishments to open in Wrocaw in some time,
Sukiennice 7 offers an outstanding menu of modern Polish
and Mediterranean culinary creations served on slabs of
slate or thinly-sliced tree trunks. A certain theatricality
exists here as the chefs in their funny hats put on a show
in the open kitchen (surrounded by a long bar), and the
waitresses scurry about wearing in something akin to folk
costumes, while a pianist plays in the evening - during
which time you can expect this place to be packed despite
the ample size of the modern interior. A great place for
large group reservations, keep costs down Mon-Fri 12:00
- 16:00 with their lunch specials.QA3, ul. Sukiennice 7,
tel. (+48) 71 342 74 56, www.sukiennice7.pl. Open 12:00
- 24:00. (26-69z). TUGBSW
VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT
How about dinner and a concert? Head to the best jazz venue
in the region for a sophisticated evening of rhythmic music,
killer cocktails (none of which are called Hot Sax) and a range
of modern fusion-influenced European dishes, like duck breast
marinated in fresh thyme and red pepper with blackberry
sauce and grilled pear - whoa, Daddio. Concerts are WedSun beginning at 20:00, during which time reservations are
recommended.QB3, ul. Oawska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21
29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00 01:00. Closed Mon. (22-45z). UEGW
WODNIK RESTAURANT
Within walking distance of the Zoo, the restaurant of the
Wodnik Hotel certainly isnt a bad option in an area where
choices are limited (and therefore crowded). In keeping
with the nautical theme of the hotel, the emphasis here is
on fresh fish, which they prepare in their own smokehouse
and enhance with herbs from their own garden. Enjoy
tempting dishes like salmon teriyaki or the exotic halibut
lasagna with mussels, shrimp, marinara sauce, capers
and zucchini in the white-scrubbed interior or sunny
seasonal terrace. Get there by taxi, or by walking across the
Zwierzyniecka Footbridge from the south side of the Zoo
(I-5).QH5, ul. Na Grobli 28 (Wodnik Hotel), tel. (+48) 71
343 36 67, www.wodnik-hotel.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
(42-68z). T6GW
ITALIAN
CAPRI RISTORANTE PIZZERIA
Found inside the Galeria Italia complex the style here is
clear and simple, with visual distractions essentially limited
to the streetside views and the theatrics of other diners.
Choose from an ambitious range of Italian dishes, with the
real emphasis placed on spaghetti, while the proprietors
Italian origins are unmistakable in their influence on the
end product. Prices remain pegged at sensible levels,
providing prospective diners with all the more reason to
visit.QB2, ul. Wizienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48)
71 343 20 71, www.capripizza.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
(11-120z). T6GSW
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Restaurants
LA DOLCE VITA
This new intimate Italian restaurant oozes authenticity,
but you dont need us to tell you that - your nose knows
best. Although its official name is La Dolce Vita, locals
refer to it as Giovannis Place - after the charismatic
owner and head chef. He has a lot of specialties, but
his thin crust pizza with a wide range of fresh imported
toppings will blow you away. They also have a great
selection of seafood and pasta dishes, plus a great wine
selection, but its the pizza that is truly perfecto!QB3,
ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel. (+48) 71 319 45 59, www.
dolcevita.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (25-60z).
T6GSW
LA SCALA
Tried and true La Scala enjoys a big reputation amongst
locals, despite revved-up Rynek prices and uneven service
from the bow-tied staff. Thats down to the food no doubt,
with arguably the best Italian in town in the exclusive
upstairs eatery, while the ground floor trattoria offers
guests a cheaper, more concise incarnation of the menu
amongst red-chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural Italy
and strings of garlic.QA3, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372
53 94, www.lascala.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (20-150z).
TXS
JAPANESE
DAREA SUSHI
KOREAN - JAPANESE RESTAURANT
A huge open plan space that does little in the way of dcor,
but plenty for the reputation of Korean food. Overseen by
a Korean chap who settled in Poland over a decade ago
Darea offers a cracking menu of both Japanese and Korean
dishes including tangsuyuk (sweet and sour beef baked in
pastry), bulgogi and five grill options where the cooking is
left to the patrons. Highly recommended and a confirmed
favourite of Wrocaws expats. Take-away on offer at a 15
percent discount.QB2, ul. Kunicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71
343 53 01, www.darea.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (20-100z).
TVGSW
JEWISH
La Dolce Vita
ul. Wita Stwosza 16
tel. 71 319 45 59
/ ladolcevitawroclaw
34 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
SARAH
Located near the White Stork Synagogue and Jewish
Community Centre, Sarah can make as claim as Wrocaws
most Jewish restaurant, for whatever thats worth. The
budget menu is not kosher, but features traditional Jewish
dishes, and though reports of their quality and that of
the service is a little uneven, this is still a great place to
spend time in our opinion. With plenty of atmosphere
thanks to earthy colours, menorah candlelight and loads
of antiques, Sarah is reminiscent of the cafes found in
Krakws old Jewish district and teams with Mleczarnia to
create one of the best seasonal beer gardens in the city.
QE4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 609 99 01 97, www.
sarah.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (13-39z). 6U
GS
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Restaurants
STEINHAUS
Endeavouring to capture the scholarly, sophisticated
spirit of inter-war society, the main feature of Steinhaus
smart dark wood interior is the large chalkboards, casually
scribbled with daily specials, mathematical equations
and humorous quips attributed to the restaurants longbeaked namesake - Hugo Steinhaus - a well-known
Polish-Jewish mathematician, professor and aphorist. In
his honour, the owners have created a place where the
humanities, science and humour gather at the same table
to share some conversation, libations, and outstanding
Jewish Galician dishes like lamb shank with porridge
and dumplings. Appropriately placed in the District of 4
Denominations, this multi-faceted venue has character
to spare.QE4, ul. Wodkowica 11, tel. (+48) 512 93 10
71, www.steinhaus.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (16-58z).
UGSW
MEDITERRANEAN
LA MADDALENA
With a great location next to the Mleczarnia beer garden,
and including seasonal outdoor seating overlooking the
White Stork Synagogue, La Maddalena offers upscale
dining in Wrocaws former Jewish, currently hipster
district. The creme-coloured, conservatively elegant
interior includes homely touches like wicker lampshades
and quilted seat covers, and can accommodate large
groups as well as couples looking for a more intimate
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35
Restaurants
POLISH FOOD
POLISH
NEW
BOUTIQUE BRAJT RESTAURANT
Located in the Boutique Brajt Hotel, this restaurant is a fittingly
classy, white-tablecloth affair serving fancy takes on traditional
Polish cuisine in a bright veranda-like interior. Since regional
products are used as much as possible, the menu is seasonal.
Meals begin with complimentary fresh bread and their own
pumpkin pesto before warm bowls of traditional urek (Polish
rye soup) and platters of roast duck or pork chops arrive.
QE-4, ul. Wodkowica 18, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 81,
www.brajt.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (26-62z). T6UW
Barszcz
Restaurants
linen. The concise menu wont bowl you over, but the class
and quality will. Choose from roasted duck with apples, black
currant sauce, potato dumplings and fried beetroot, or seize
the moment by ordering wild boar. Expect an expansive wine
list, professional service and a commitment to excellence.
One of the few world class dining options in the city.QA3,
ul. Rzenicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64 61, www.jadka.pl.
Open 13:00 - 22:00. (27-92z). 6GSW
KARCZMA LWOWSKA
Translating to Lviv Tavern and dedicated not only to that
formerly Polish city now lost in the wilds of the Ukraine,
but also to that thought-to-be lost Polish ideal of a simple
country lifestyle, this nostalgic restaurants immaculately
decorated interior is decked out in rustic, rural artefacts,
antiques, old photos and seems to have a stuffed pheasant
on almost every table. Designed for day-long feasting,
the menu of traditional Galician specialties looks like an
outstanding bargain before you notice that all side dishes
are charged separately, however the result is still a decent
value and evidence that not everything on the market
square is a tourist trap.QA3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343
98 87, www.lwowska.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (3080z). T6EXW
KONSPIRA
Recreating the 1980s with newspapers, political cartoons,
posters, and other communist era imagery, Konspira calls
itself a Centre for Historical Education illuminating Wrocaws
role in the Solidarity movement. With some English info
it could do a better job, but as a restaurant its absolutely
brilliant with enormous portions of tasty local grub and
absurdly cheap prices seemingly straight from the old days.
The killer location includes a huge garden full of gorgeous
trees(!), a historical exhibit (Polish only, unfortunately) and
even an outdoor play area for kids. Make sure you ask to
see the hidden room - a clever artefact-laden recreation of
what a Polish apartment might have looked like in the mid80s. Completely unique, worth checking out and worth the
bill twice over.QA3, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00,
www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. (10-30z). TGSW
PIEROGARNIA STARY MYN
Taking pierogi - a traditional staple of Polish cuisine - and
turning them into a tourist-fleecing cash crop, Pierogarnia
Stary Myn specialises in baked dumplings, as opposed to
your traditional steamed variety. The menu is a meandering
visual mess, but offers a range of savoury, sweet, meat
or veg fillings, with your choice of sauces on the side.
Choose from overpriced sets of 3, 5 or 9, where adding an
additional individual pierog costs an absurdly exact 8.96z
(baked) or 5.46z (steamed). To their credit, the dumplings
are very large (start with 3) and tasty, but hardly traditional.
The textbook definition of a tourist trap, there are dozens
of other places in Wrocaw where you can taste your first
pierogi.QA3, Rynek 26, tel. (+48) 71 344 14 15, www.
pierogarnie.com/wroclaw. Open 11:03 - 22:57. (1432z). TGSW
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Restaurants
Karczma Lwowska
Wrocaw, Rynek 4
Rezerwacje / Reservations
+48 / 71 34 39 887
karczma@lwowska.com.pl
www.lwowska.com.pl
29.99
Z
OF TRADITIONAL
POLISH CUISINE
PIWNICA WIDNICKA
Seems things have gone downhill a bit since this place was
opened over 700 years ago, making it the first beer cellar
in Europe. Named after the Schweidnitz (widnica) beer
brewed in the basement back in those days, today it serves
primarily as an effective tourist trap where the labyrinth
of historic Town Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into
ordering rather average overpriced traditional food served
by uncaring staff. Nonetheless an Old Town landmark, and
well worth a look at the very least.QA3, Rynek-Ratusz 1,
tel. (+48) 71 369 95 10, www.piwnicaswidnicka.com.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-75z). G
POD FREDR
A perfect introduction to traditional Polish cuisine, from a
perfect location inside Wrocaws medieval Town Hall, Pod
Fredr ably covers the spectrum of Polish classics and even
boasts its very own onsite smokehouse. The music, walls, and
meaty menu combine to create the appearance of an old Polish
village and the staff will dutifully serve you in at least three
languages (Polish, German or English). The extensive country
fare is complemented by a large and international wine list,
and you need not worry about your eyes being too big for
your stomach as theyre quite happy to doggy-bag whatever
youre unable to put away of the large portions.QA3, Rynek
- Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13 35, www.podfredra.pl. Open
11:00 - 23:00. (30-60z). T6UXS
RESTAURACJA MONOPOL
Known under communism as the most exclusive restaurant
in Wrocaw, queues would stretch outside the revolving doors
as the staff shooed away anyone not wearing a tie, and menus
and tableware frequently disappeared into the pockets of
souvenir hoarders banking on the Monopols rep as a culinary
masterpiece. With the historic building renovated and under
the savvy stewardship of Likus, today that excellence is back in
place with master chefs preparing a wide range of traditional
Polish dishes, and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord starting
each day. A modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you
go.QA4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48)
71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Open
06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 07:30 - 10:30, 12:00 22:00. (65-75z). UGW
SETKA - BAR POLSKI LUDOWEJ
For those who miss the Communist system, and those who
simply missed it altogether, this Polish Folk Bar recreates the
Soviet-era diner experience in the mould of the currently
trendy 24hr Polish snack and shot bar. The loud, time-warp
interior is plastered floor to ceiling with fine historical images
of PRL life, while the menu is a bit more than the typical
romp through cold dishes that complement vodka - the
ribs are arguably the best in town, and we also recommend
the potato pancakes with goulash. The prices here are
precious more than pocket change, and Setka is certainly
more popular than we ever remember any other aspect
of the communist system being in this country.QA3, ul.
Kazimierza Wielkiego 50a, tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www.
setkabar.com. Open 10:00 - 06:00. (8-12z). GW
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Restaurants
SPANISH
TAVERNA ESPAOLA
Six types of paella, a good range of tapas and tortillas, fish
in abundance, a superb veggie selection and a coveted
location (including terrific Rynek-side seating in season)
all ensure that this Spanish eatery stays stoked with happy
patrons. Inside you will find a vaulted room full of gloomy
corners and a scary mannequin dressed like a matador.
QA3, Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 71 344 65 62. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (23-50z). TGS
THAI
NEW
PHATHATHAI
This typical hole-in-the-wall establishment has perhaps four
tables and an open kitchen, meaning you can peer right
into the Thai cooks woks as they stir-fry together delicious
concoctions. The very fairly-priced menu includes curries,
spring rolls, fried rice, and - of course - pad thai. Care to learn
some Thai phrases while chowing down? Look no further than
the blackboard on the back wall.QB2, ul. Wizienna 5c, tel.
(+48) 534 79 88 63, www.phathathai.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (15-25z). 6SW
UKRAINIAN
HORTYCA
With the historical and cultural connection that post-war
Wrocaw shares with Ukraine, you would expect Ukrainian
food to be more prevalent locally, but well happily settle
for Hortyca. With a radio playing from behind the bar and
a simple menu of traditional dishes, this casual, cheap and
tiny restaurant offers a surprisingly authentic experience of
Ukrainian dining, enhanced by the folksy decor, flatware,
and dress of the plump-faced waitress. If youre not wellversed in Ukrainian food, its basically what you might have
surmised: a blend of Polish and Russian cuisine; as such,
the short menu is populated with dumplings, blinis and
borscht. Our Plov - a rice dish with meat and traditional
seasonings - was delicious, and we capped it off by toasting
PLs eastern neighbours with a shot of Nemiroff.QB2, ul.
Wizienna 18/1, tel. (+48) 71 318 75 66, www.hortyca.
com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (10-20z). T6GSW
KNAJPA KRES
Kres refers to the former eastern provinces of PL lost after
WWII (today in Lithuania, Belarus and Ukraine), though
they seem to be using the term more liberally here,
with Czech beers and Georgian wine, though the food
is decidedly Ukrainian with the house specialty being
Chicken Kiev. The menu may pose a challenge for those
unfamiliar with obscure Eastern dishes, but the staff will
help you figure out that most of the food is fairly familiar.
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Restaurants
MILK BARS
A lot has changed since
communism got kneecapped and Poland
joined the EU. While
many of the old ways of
the old days have disappeared or become
slightly disneyfied in
todays tourist-laden
Krakw, one relic remains resolutely un-Western: the
Polish milk bar, or bar mleczny. These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat cuisine to an endless queue
of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim
glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can
eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely
well-fed one. Put the Racawice Panorama on hold, a
visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for
anyone who has just set foot in the country.
As restaurants were nationalised across the country
by PLs communist authorities after WWII, milk bars
appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairy-based
meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible,
apparently); in fact meals at the local milk bar were
often included in a workers salary. In addition to milk,
yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions,
milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as
flour-based foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate
under communism that many milk bars chained
the cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery;
by this same reasoning youll notice that most milk
bars today use disposable dishes and the salt and
pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon.
Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashen-faced, allbusiness babcias (Polish grannies), and the food is as
inspired as ever - the only difference being that meat
is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse
of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt,
however, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The
range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing
time approaches, so go early, go often.
JACEK I AGATKA
QB3, Pl. Nowy Targ 27, tel. (+48) 71 344 24 55.
Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
(3-10z). NG
MI
Named after the classic Polish comedy film which
caricatured milk bars during the communist era.QB3,
ul. Kunicza 48, tel. (+48) 71 343 49 63. Open 07:00 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (5-14z). NG
40 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
VEGETARIAN
AHIMSA RESTAURANT & CLUB
Okay, first things first: these people really do know their
spices, and its hard to believe that someone can inject
this much flavour into lowly tofu. You wont leave hungry,
either; the all-vegan menu offers huge portions of veggie
sizzlers, masala dosa, stir-fry vegetables in peanut sauce,
thali and sushi of the day, falafel, and veggie burgers. While
the delicious smell might just be the deciding factor when
choosing to dine here, the warm minimalist ambience
entices you to sit a while longer.QE4, ul. w. Antoniego
23, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 22, www.ahimsa.com.pl. Open
11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (14-25z). T6G
SW
BASZTA
Centuries ago (eight of them to be exact), this gloomy brick
tower was part of the citys medieval defensive fortifications,
and today it houses one of the most unique alternative
hang-outs in town. Offering an outstanding menu of
vegan and vegetarian food, choice from outrageously
cheap curries, pad thai, tempeh and tofu satay, ramen
and other Pan-Asian delights, plus a range of vegan and
gluten-free desserts. Baszta also doubles as a gallery for
surreal graphics over its three ancient storeys, and achieves
a low-key, romantic, bohemian vibe perfect for bean bag
conversation or burying your nose in a book. Getting there
is an adventure, and youll surely make an impression on
anyone you navigate through the dark courtyard behind
Hala Targowa to Basztas door (most easily achieved from
ul. Piaskowa). Seek it out.QC3, ul. Kraiskiego 14, tel.
(+48) 603 51 08 35, www.baszta.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00
- 21:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00
- 21:00. Closed Mon. (18-22z). T6GSW
MACHINA ORGANIKA
Hidden behind an azure facade is a beautifully tiled
interior that might as well be a Moroccan courtyard or
bathhouse. As the name implies, this locale specializes in
all that is healthy, organic, and plant-based, with the everchanging menu proving that vegan cuisine does in fact go
beyond seaweed and grass. It seems that this might just
be the first place in Wrocaw to dabble in the raw food
trend - but those who prefer their food cooked wont leave
disappointed, either.QA3, ul. Ruska 19, tel. (+48) 733
53 72 10. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. (1025z). T6GSW
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Restaurants
POWOLI
With a name that means slowly in Polish, this pleasant
breakfast and lunch spot has latched onto the slow lifestyle
trend, offering carefully-made, unfussy, healthy food in an
interior whose style wed like to call homey minimalism.
Perhaps the best thing about this lil place is the community
atmosphere you feel right through the door, with locals
hanging around reading, having a morning cuppa, and/
or discussing medical problems (the hospital across the
street is especially conducive to this). Powoli offers twists
on popular Polish dishes like pierogi, potato pancakes,
crepes, casserole - all made with unorthodox, nutritious
ingredients - and we gotta say the food is delicious; though
not strictly vegetarian, most of their dishes are meat-free.
QB1, ul. Rydygiera 25/27, tel. (+48) 732 52 34 07. Open
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (7-17z).
T6UGSW
VEGA
This veteran establishment earns honours for being the the
first in the country to commit to going all vegetarian when
it opened way back in 1987. Now, following a needed
renovation, Vega has upped its own anti- by going 100%
vegan. Set over two floors right on the market square, the
modern makeover has done wonders for the interior and the
food is good as ever, especially the amazing cakes, desserts
and vegan ice cream. Enjoy daily specials, meatless cutlets
and Eastern-inspired dishes, with plenty for diabetics, those
going gluten-free and even raw foodies. Full of flyers and
activist info, this place is a veritable counter-culture centre,
and probably the cheapest, most alternative place you can
eat on the market square of any major city in Poland. Way
to go, Wrocaw.QB3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344
39 34, www.barvega.wroclaw.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Fri
08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (925z). T6GSW
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ZE MISO (EVIL MEAT)
After some rather nomadic beginnings, Evil Meat (bless its
tofu heart) has dropped a squat deep in a courtyard off of
ul. Ofiar Owicimskich and looks inclined to stay. Featuring
plenty of home-made tattoos, dreadlocks, DIY decor (milk
crate light fixtures, mural art) and always a dog or too, this
place has remained an underground institution, and is
one of the citys best vegetarian eateries. Despite being a
gathering place for the Great Unwashed, enticing smells hit
you as soon as you step inside; choose from daily specials,
curries, casseroles, veggie cutlets, falafel, pizza, tofu and
two things weve never seen before in PL - seitan and
tempeh(!). Hard to find, and even harder to believe how
good it is, look for the green neon sign and go veg out.
QA3, ul. Ofiar Owicimskich 19, tel. (+48) 667 94 78
04, www.zlemieso.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. (15-23z). 6GS
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BREAKFAST
41
Cafs
AMORINIO
This colourful Italian cafe offers enough sundaes, shakes
and other sweet treats to make all the teeth of a shark
fall out in ecstasy. Seriously, the sheer variety of desserts
available here is awe-inspiring and makes deciding a
challenging conundrum (dont worry, theres no incorrect
choice). The modern design is eclectic, but smart, with
exposed bricks, wallpaper disguised as tile mosaic, and
a subtle angel theme that gets less so when applied to
the cute teenage girls in vintage red dresses working here,
while the clientele is largely their peers and grandmothers.
A great place to take the kids, if youve overdone the
sweets there are also a range of savoury soups, quiches,
crepes and breakfast until 12:00.QB3, ul. Wita Stwosza
1-2, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 44, www.amorinio.pl. Open
08:30 - 21:00, Fri 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
TGSW
CENTRAL CAFE
Around the corner from Pasa Niepolda and open early
- heres a good place to start your day. This Americanstyle bakery cafe offers a blackboard menu (in Polish
and English) with plenty of familiar breakfast options,
including pancakes with maple syrup, bagels and cream
cheese, yoghurt with granola and honey, oatmeal loaded
with yummy toppings, pastries, cupcakes, quiche and
more - all of it made on site were told. Of course, theres
coffee and smoothies as well, plus plenty of space to park
it and observe the cute clientele enjoying their oatmeal
until your eyes are sufficiently wide enough to take your
sightseeing back into town. The spacious, high-ceilinged,
42 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
Cafs
since this place has become a bit of a meeting place
for it. Creating an antiquated intellectual aesthetic
thanks to a mish-mash of furnishings including a walllength bookshelf, old telephone switchboard, and
unique decorative art with portraits of luminairies from
Wrocaws Jewish past, Cocoflis selection of comics
and childrens books will make you wish you spoke
Polish. Here theyre hip to all the alternative coffee
brewing techniques and offer rice, soy or almond milk,
or enjoy a glass of wine or a local microbrew.QE4, ul.
Wodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 756 99 90. Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. GW
CZEKOLADZIARNIA WROCAW
Formerly known as Chocoffee, this is still one of the best
cafes in Wrocaw. Found on the corner of Igielna, the
exterior is painted with phrases and variations of the word
chocolate in a dozen different languages. Inside find a
quiet, cosy cafe with fine marble tables, classy wallpaper
and comfy couches. A tantalising number of chocolate
and coffee concoctions are available, hot or cold, to stay
or to go. Not to mention the display full of small sweets,
truffles, fudge and other treats. Their chocolate coffee
with a scoop of vanilla ice cream? - the only reason we get
out of bed some days. A gem.QB2, ul. Wizienna 31,
www.czekoladziarnia-wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
6GS
NEW
PANATO CAF
This hippie co-op charges guests for time spent at the
cafe, offering in return an open space to make free coffee
and sandwiches, help yourself to freshly-baked cake, play
board games, take advantage of the wi-fi, read books and
magazines, and chat to fellow free spirits. The minimum
time is 15 minutes (3.75z); an entire day will cost you 35z.
QB1, ul. Jednoci Narodowej 68a, tel. (+48) 71 735 16
35, www.panato.org/panato-cafe. Open 12:00 - 20:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. T6UN
SW
VINYL CAFE
This groovy little cafe is an obvious labour of love, and
old school audiophiles will literally feel right at home
with the living room arrangement around the hi-fi
record player. Full of cosy armchairs, crates of vinyl LPs
and shelves of books, come in, pick out a 45, curl up
with a coffee or beer and a book and youve got yourself
the perfect afternoon. The sound system is state-ofthe-art, their extensive record collection ranges from
Dizzy Gillespie to Devendra Banhart, and bonus points
for the policy of making sure a side plays all the way
to the end before it gets changed. The coffee comes in
big mugs, sweets are on hand, theres a strong selection
of Czech beers, wine and cider, and you can also buy
and trade records here. A second home to many.QB3,
ul. Kotlarska 35-36/1a, tel. (+48) 508 26 02 88. Open
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
T6UGSW
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PANCAKES
TARTS
SOUPS
HOT BEER?
Though the Polish winter is
famous for being long and
brutal, fear not, the Poles
have a method for taking
the bite out of this blustery
season, and as you can
probably guess - its
alcohol (congratulations,
Kowalski). For those in
need of a warm-up, but
who wince at the thought
of vodka, we have two
words for you: hot beer, or
grzane piwo as its called by the locals. Essentially
a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup,
clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some
this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others
an early Christmas present, and others still an utter
profanity. Regardless, its a necessary invention and
a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in
PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is
grzane wino or mulled wine as youll notice
by the outdoor stands selling cups of it during the
holiday season. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...
and Na zdrowie!
January - April 2016
43
Nightlife
Visit Coctail Bar Max (p.45) for drinks with so much fresh fruit in them, youll wonder where they fit the booze.
CRAFT BEERS
Discover the depths of Polish beer culture in Kontynuacja,
Marynka, Szynkarnia and Pod Latarniami, or try
newcomer Browar Zoty Pies (Breweries, p.48) where they
brew their own.
COUPLES
Show off by starting the night with a romantic dinner in
OK Wine Bar (p.29), or a fancy drink in Papa Bar. Enjoy a
classy jazz concert at Vertigo (Live Music, p.46), continue
the conversation by candlelight in Mleczarnia, or take a
turn on the dance-floor in Manana (Clubs).
COCKTAILS
Shake it up in local stalwarts Papa Bar and Pod Papugami,
or get fresh and fruity in newcomer Coctail Bar Max.
Domwka and PRIV (Clubs) are currently the most
exclusive catwalks for celebrity spotting and being seen.
44 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
STUDENTS
As beer prices go up, cheap shot bars (p.49) are appearing
all over, sustained by Wrocaws student population. Wicars
has a definite frat party appeal while Szajba and Manana
(Clubs) are the best locales for spontaneous booty-shaking.
LADS
Winners is the civilised choice for football, food and beer,
but you can do that at home. Instead, make friends over Pro
Evo in Padbar, challenge the locals to foosball in Wicars,
and dont miss trying one of the Polish Snacks & Shots
(p.49) spots in town like Setka.
ALTERNATIVE
Regular presentations on how to be a Polish hipster are
given in Szklarnia and KRVN; Nietota (Clubs) has a darker
side, Neon Side illuminates the citys edgy urbanity, and
Art Cafe Kalambur (Clubs) is the heights of opiatic art
nouveau decadence.
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SYMBOL KEY
N Credit cards not accepted
G No smoking
6 Animal friendly
E Live music
W Wi-fi connection
vine.co/inyourpocket
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket
Legendary
t a il s
f r u it c o c k fruits
otic
fresh and ex
made with
tio
whisky selec
The Biggest Poland
in
45
Nightlife
LIVE MUSIC
All venues that can claim to offer live music are marked
with a saxophone icon E, but in addition to those
below, Stary Klasztor (p.32), Pod Papugami (p.48) and
Nietota (p.51) are particularly worthy of investigation.
To find out what specific concerts are happening when
youre in town, check our Events section (p.16).
ETER CLUB
If youre sick of brick cellars, head to this thoroughly
modern marvel for a lesson in grand dance-club
design. One of the citys top venues, Eter looks the part
with dazzling professional lighting and an incredible
sound system - put to good use while hosting some
of Wrocaws best concerts and events. Spread over
two underground levels with four(!) bars, chill out
on the splendid upstairs mezzanine overlooking the
stage/dance-floor sofas before heading down into
dance-floor carnage with an unpretentious crowd
determined to take full advantage of the night. Check
their website to see whats on.QA3, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 19, tel. (+48) 796 62 29 11, www.eterclub.
pl. Open hours depend on the event. For concerts
open 20:00 - 03:00, for clubbing open 21:00 - 05:00.
UEG
RAGTIME
This veteran venue has grown some grey hairs, but
remains an engaging endeavour that refuses to follow
fashions and retains a charismatic personality of its
own. Vermilion walls are home to all manner of visual
diversions, from framed pics of jazz gods to musical
instruments. A wrought iron mezzanine allows the
opportunity to admire all the clutter and the Wed - Fri
jazz concerts are free to enter and not to be missed.
QA3, Pl. Solny 17, tel. (+48) 71 343 37 01, www.
ragtimecafe.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. EXW
VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT
This esteemed music entertainment outfit boasts
its own record label, and finally its own venue for
hosting almost nightly jazz concerts. Modern in its
slick design and acoustic precision, but classic in its
intimate atmosphere and Cotton Club appeal, Vertigo
is the best jazz club in the region and a nirvana not
only for earnest jazz enthusiasts, but also the players,
who are complimented with a high-profile Artists
Lounge at stage left. The cocktail prowess of the bar
staff is almost over-the-top, and theres a nice menu
of creative European eats to accompany the live music
Wed-Sun starting at 20:00; most concerts are free,
and while reservations arent necessary, they would
be wise.QB3, ul. Oawska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21
29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat
17:00 - 01:00; closed Mon. UEGW
46 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
KRVN
Shorthand for Karavan (obviously), this odd and amiable
bar/bistro combines a smart post-modern aesthetic with
a street art edge and deliberate traces of urban decay:
think steel doors and subtle neon, plus strange Sharpie
scribbles on unfinished walls. In the evenings its a total
hipster hangout full of fanny packs, plug earrings, ironic
moustaches and fast electronic music. The drinks menu
is unique, inventive and nothing short of excellent, with
a long list of original cocktails and hot concoctions for
weathering the long Polish winter. By day natural light
filters through the street-side windows and KRVN is more
of a bistro with a great menu of hot sandwiches, Polish
pancakes, burgers, pasta and salads (served until 22:00, FriSat 23:00). An ideal place to pretend youre not a tourist,
this is essentially the perfect Wrocaw hangout.QE4, ul.
w. Antoniego 40/1A, tel. (+48) 575 79 17 57, www.krvn.
pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GSW
MARYNKA PIWO I APERITIVO
Marynka essentially takes the idea and atmosphere of a
wine and tapas bar and applies it to choice ales. Here you
can select from upwards of 75 beers from all over the world,
including 8 regularly changing taps, while snacking on
tasty appetisers (which come free with your beer between
16:00 and 21:00!), and theyve now added delicious woodfired pizza to their bag of tricks thanks to a cooperation
with Happy Little Food Truck parked out back. Hidden in an
obscure courtyard behind Graciarnia near the Royal Palace,
this is a refined place for beer lovers to relax without the
snobbery you might associate with connoisseur culture.
Worth seeking out.QA4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39,
tel. (+48) 504 31 49 01. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. GW
MLECZARNIA
Weve been mainstays at this dusky, back-street, candlelit
pub since our first days in town. Hidden in an enchanting
courtyard with the White Stork Synagogue and a glorious
oak tree, the summer beer garden is fantastic, while the sepia
interior of wobbly furnishings and framed sketches captures
an ethereal, nostalgic atmosphere better than anywhere else
in Wrocs former Jewish district. A bohemian mix of local
academics, hipsters and hostelers drink through the debate
topics of the day while an excellent mix of ethnic and indie
music (always played at just the right level) drifts through the
air. Honestly, Mleczarnia is the kind of place we could live in,
and some regulars appear to actually do so. With a hostel
upstairs, you can too.QE4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71
788 24 48, www.mle.pl. Open 08:00 - 04:00. XW
NEON SIDE CLUB & GALLERY
This passageway between ul. Ruska and ul. Antoniego
is now not only a living gallery for street art, but also
salvaged neon art from the Soviet era. Not only is the
interior of this alternative venue densely laden with neons
(in various states of condition and working order), but the
facade is also hung with historic neon signs, thus making
the entrance rather hard to miss. Part bar/club and part
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Nightlife
museum/gallery, inside Polish speakers will find some info
about the history of each sign alongside where it shines
down on the retro furnishings of this hipster clubhouse with
choice beers, weekend DJs, and a general counter-culture
vibe. Absolutely worth seeing, even if just for a look around
in the evening.QE4, ul. Ruska 46C, tel. (+48) 604 26 12
20. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. UGW
NIEBO CAFE
As long as you keep drinking, Niebo will stay open, and this
has become an after-hours cult classic packed with students
obliterating scholarships well after dawn; when one drops
off theres three more to replace them. A long, dog-eared,
scarlet and blue bar full of random art photos and oddities,
Niebo is the start and finish point for many neighbourhood
pub crawls, so youll have to step over a few casualties
on your way to the dance-floor, pumping your fist to the
classic rock and 90s anthems.QE4, ul. Ruska 51b (Pasa
Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71 342 98 67. Open 13:00 - 05:00,
Mon 17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 08:00. 6UXW
PADBAR
With a beer in one hand and a joystick in the other,
Padbar is a concept club for gamers (not gay men, sorry
for the confusion). The investment here obviously went
into equipment, not decor, which consists of black sofas,
bean bags, plywood tables...and dozens of flatscreen
TVs where you can play seemingly every video game,
for every gaming system, ever created. But Padbar isnt
limited to video games - there are plenty of board games
as well, plus the obligatory Warhammer and Magic: The
Gathering crowds. With stencil art of Rambo and Einstein
holding game consoles, and a cocktail menu with names
like Princess Zelda and Crash Bandicoot, this place is
impressively thought out, wildly popular and loud with
laughter. Perfect for making new friends, getting nostalgic
and having a blast, few places are as fun and friendly as
Padbar. Game on.QA3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 1, tel.
(+48) 883 75 17 14, www.padbar.pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00,
Sun 16:00 - 02:00. UGW
PAPA BAR
One of Wrocaws most stylish and chic bars, how much
you favour Papa Bar really depends how much you fancy
yourself a fit with the jet set. Filled with foreign and local
hotshots in collars and cufflinks beside blonde beauties
and botox cougars drinking cocktails and single malt
whiskeys around an endless rectangular bar, grand
colonnades support the ceiling while red carpet shots
of smiling Hollywood hunks and starlets dress the walls.
The space is enormous and has been entirely given over
to smokers, with the exception of a small corner. Though
the tedious house music is hardly original, Papa Bar still
provides many of the comforts other places lack - including
competent mixologists, sports on the flatscreen and a
menu of great eats served late. Recommended.QA3, ul.
Rzenicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71 341 04 85, www.papabar.
pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00,
Sun 16:00 - 01:00. UXW
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47
Nightlife
BREWERIES
Wrocaw has a long and illustrious history of brewing
beer thanks to its past allegiances and current proximity
to both Germany and Czech Republic. While craft beers
are all the rage at the moment, the venues below are
taking it to the next level by actually brewing their own.
BIERHALLE
In a battle with Spi for best local microbrewery, do
your drinking under the parasols of their prime Rynek
real estate during the sunny season, retreating into
the restaurant during those six months of the year
when willful impairment is forced indoors. Continuing
Wrocaws long brewing tradition, this outfit does it all onsite with wheat, pilsner and dark beers among those on
draught. Prices are aimed at German tourists, and lager
lovers that they are youll find plenty of them happy to
pay for the privilege of a good ale. If its game day, youll
find Bierhalles plethora of teles to be one of your best
bets for catching the match.QA3, Rynek Ratusz 24-27,
tel. (+48) 601 67 74 52, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 11:00
- 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. GW
NEW
BROWAR ZOTY PIES
(GOLDEN DOG BREWERY)
A place where beer keeps no secrets from beer drinkers
- the live brewing going on in this establishment
means that all stages of the process take place right in
front of visitors eyes, and you might even be allowed to
chuck in some malt or hops. Situated in a beautiful main
square tenement house with a golden dog emblem
(giving rise to the name of course), Zoty Pies offers five
types of beer - lager, IPA, wheat, amber and porter - and
a selection of modern Polish dishes which draw upon
local products and change with the seasons. Stop by
during lunch (Mon-Sat 11:00 - 16:00) for soup, an entree
and a beer for only 29z.QB3, ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, tel.
(+48) 570 22 12 12, www.zlotypies.com. Open 11:00
- 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. UXW
SPI BREWERY
After losing some ground in the Breslau best beer
debate to Bierhalle, Spi seems to have picked up the
slack by unveiling a few new brews which combined
with their caramel and honey beers, should be enough
to convince your ladyfriend to give it a go. With seven
unpasteurised, unfiltered brews in total, you should find
something to your taste, though beer enthusiasts are a
bit split about the quality. Despite service that is largely
lacking, a free table in the summer beer garden is still
a rarity, while an Oktoberfest atmosphere prevails in
the dark cellars of the Town Hall. Spi is still considered
a must-visit by locals and remains perhaps Wrocaws
most recognisable bar.QA3, Rynek-Ratusz 2, tel.
(+48) 71 344 72 25, www.spiz.pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00,
Mon, Sun 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. XW
48 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
POD LATARNIAMI
A warm, elegant, yet perfectly casual pub with a retro
turn-of-the-century interior full of mirrors, marble and fine
woodwork, including a long bar fitted with lanterns. In
addition to great atmosphere, theres are 8 craft beers on
draught, rows of bottled ales and whiskies, and a mercifully
short menu of local specialties and grilled meats (including
a very good breaded pork chop), which are not only
tasty, but represent a great value. One of the few places
in Wrocaw to earn mass approval from high-collared
businessmen, British tourists, wind-creased geasers and
first-dating students. We like it too.QA3, ul. Ruska 3/4,
tel. (+48) 71 344 03 24. Open 10:30 - 02:00, Thu 10:30 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 05:00. UGW
POD PAPUGAMI
Packed with wasp-waisted blondes Pod Papugami
still rates as one of the top venues in town for terrific
food, smart drinks and live music. Squeeze among the
local stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid
film reels, projectors and vintage movie memorabilia.
Champagne-voiced chanteuses take the stage most
nights, and the performances are usually very good
indeed.QA3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71 343 92
75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
EGW
SZAJBA
Hidden one courtyard east of Mleczarnia, this large,
versatile high-ceilinged club/gallery caters to Wrocaws
large demographic of hipsters who create happenings. Old
50s and 60s radios with glowing gummy bear lamps atop
them line the walls above old framed advertisements and
prints by local artists. The furnishings, as you can guess,
are more of the same attic antiques you find in many such
places, with candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty
of room for large groups. Seasonal outdoor seating, an
eclectic alternative playlist, extensive exotic drink list and
free wifi are just a few more of the reasons Szajba is a great
place to pass time; the bar staff are obviously enjoying
themselves, as our coffee came with a near-complete tictac-toe board drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the
winning stroke. A great find.QA3, ul. w. Antoniego 2/4
(Pasa Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 660 40 42 70, www.szajba.
wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
UGW
SZKLARNIA
Ofiar Owicimskich Street has exploded with hip new
venues to become one of Wrocaws most exciting streets and this may be its most popular hangout at the moment.
Bearing all the hallmarks of hipster paradise - pricey craft
beers, cool cocktails, groovy music, DIY design and good
eats - theyve basically taken all the best aspects of their
neighbours and combined them here. Theres even a club
in the basement on weekends. Dubbed Greenhouse (as
Szklarnia translates in English) thanks to a glass ceiling,
this large space features a long wrap-around bar, lots
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of natural light, and plenty of plywood and pallets
(naturally). A delight by day, things get crowded in the
evening when it basically turns into a urban lifestyle blog.
QA3, ul. Ofiar Owicimskich 19, tel. (+48) 575 24 24
56. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. GW
SZYNKARNIA
Another in a recent flurry of craft beer houses in Wrocaw,
Szynkarnia is a hog of a different colour, however. Doing
unique double-duty as an ale house and deli counter
stocked with fine meats and cheeses, this place is more of a
low-key neighbourhood hangout than party headquarters,
despite a location bookending Pasa Niepolda. In addition
to the 14 craft brews on draught, try the tasty podpomyki
- a healthy wrap made on their own bread and filled with
the local deli fixings of your choice - delicious! The whitewashed timber-fitted space features a cosy antresol and
basement as well, and the breakfast and lunch specials
warrant return visits to this completely original and relaxed
establishment at all times of day.QE4, ul. w. Antoniego
15, tel. (+48) 733 80 81 34, www.szynkarnia.com.pl.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. UGW
THE WINNERS PUB
As far as sports bars go, this is the best in Wrocaw. A nice
balance is struck between the intimate, modern interior
of creme-coloured booths, all with a good view of one
of the 10 flatscreens (they also have a projector), and the
antiquated black and white sports photo wallpaper and
outdated athletic equipment on the walls. Theres also
a simple, sparse and not at all cheap menu of modern
American food, with the specialty being steaks fried on a
hot volcanic stone. Very professional service comes from
young ladies who are clearly runway models on their off
days, and the pub atmosphere is only let down by the lack
of good beer. Nonetheless, with sidewalk seating as well
as a share of Wrocaws best beer garden in front of the
White Stork Synagogue when the weather is cooperative,
wed say Winners has got Guinness Pub beaten handily.
QE4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 519 54 18 94, www.
thewinnerspub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. GW
WICARS PUB
Located underground in the catacombs of Partisan Hill,
this is one of the most unique venues in Wrocaw, not only
for its singular location, but the plethora of pursuits they
offer in addition to pizza and 70 types of beer (as if you
need more). A wonderland for lads (and ladies too), Wicars
features 6 flatscreen TVs streaming matches, 7 free foosball
tables and 2 free electronic dart boards. On top of that they
host concerts and karaoke nights, have an outdoor grill in
warm weather, and there was a large group poker game
going on when we dropped in. Foosball tournaments take
place on Tuesdays, as do workshops for honing your skills.
Get your game on.QB4, ul. Piotra Skargi 18A, tel. (+48)
887 56 66 65, www.wicars-pub.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00,
Thu 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. GW
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AMBASADA
Yet another glorious Zakski Przekski, and not even 10
metres from Nagi Kamerdyner. In this case, everything from beer to whiskey, coffee to Burn energy drink, tartar
to herring - costs a slim 5z coin, making Ambasada so
packed at night that you might not even get a glimpse of
the slightly upscale interior covered in old travel agency
adverts and transatlantic posters. High ceilings, soft
lighting and a long bar, this embassy draws a slightly older
crowd and the high volume makes new acquaintances
that much more attainable.QA3, ul. w. Mikoaja 8-11,
tel. (+48) 71 337 38 18. Open 24hrs. UGW
NAGI KAMERDYNER
An absolutely fantastic boozer that also operates as
an esteemed photography gallery (galeriajadalnia.pl),
The Naked Butler captures the outlaw elegance of
Prohibition-era America with music from the 1920s and
30s and interrogation lamps. With above-average hot
and cold Polish dishes for 8z and an all-too-convenient
location in the courtyard underneath the legendary
Manana Cafe, you never know when we might be stool
pigeoning at the bar with our brim pulled low over a
plate of bigos and a beer, or mingling with high society
at one of their art openings.QA3, ul. w. Mikoaja
8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342 00 11, www.nagikamerdyner.
pl. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Thu 17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UG
SETKA - BAR POLSKI LUDOWEJ
As unlikely as the combo may sound, Setka (the Polish
name for a 100ml glass of hard alcohol) is where Las
Vegas meets the former Peoples Republic of Poland in
a brash, loud, and fun drinking den thats bursting at
the seams on most nights. With a slot-machine-esque
backlit menu board featuring the likes of herring, lard,
and goulash displayed smack dab in the middle, a
garishly multicoloured ceiling, and a slightly irritated
female voice reading the order numbers over the mic,
this is a blast from the past dressed to please presentday bar-hoppers.QA3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50a,
tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www.setkabar.com. Open
10:00 - 06:00. GW
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49
Nightlife
PASA NIEPOLDA
CLUBS
ART CAFE KALAMBUR
An artsy bohemian headquarters by day, this tiny
Seccessionist space becomes one of the sloppiest,
most unhinged student clubs in Wrocaw on weekends,
with the party going on until dawn oclock. As drunken
revellers bump into the DJ booth, the masses writhe
to skipping recordings of everything from classic MJ
to the Doors to Goran Bregovic. So chock-a-block with
shimmying students and hipsters that dancers obstruct
the door, so start testing your moves on the approach
cause youre going right into the frying pan, friend.
QB3, ul. Kunicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 68, www.
kalambur.org. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 04:00. UNXW
BEZSENNO (INSOMNIA)
Pasa Niepoldas longest tenured club and arguably still
its best. Wrocaws sophisticated singles gather amid a
decadent background of comfy sofas, stark concrete walls
and thrift-store furnishings that balance the romanticism
of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of an
underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance
parties, while work days are more low-key with everything
from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers,
as well as the common occurrence of some of the citys
top concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go
out of their way to try and play in. A must visit.QE4, ul.
Ruska 51 (Pasa Niepolda), tel. (+48) 570 66 95 70, www.
bezsennoscklub.com. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 05:00. UEX
DOMWKA
If you come on a popular night Domwka is not so much a
club, but an experience. Once youve gotten past the facecontrol, entrance, security and coat-check youll stroll into a
packed ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive
elevated dance-floor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a
bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means theres
eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices. The
tile and brick wall styling is somehow cheesy and chic at
the same time, and the coordinated light displays that
continually scan the room will leave you mesmerised on a
Friday or Saturday night. Bring your camera, your weekend
wallet, and dancing shoes, and Domwka will deliver you
to dance party paradise.QA3, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 508
15 69 12, www.klubdomowka.pl. Open 21:00 - 04:00,
Thu 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:30. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. XW
MAANA CAFE
Reckoned by many to be the best night out in Wrocaw,
Maana is certainly reliable for a raucous weeknight raveup and well-loved by all those who live for long nights.
Dont let the lack of a proper dancefloor prevent you from
doing your Travolta - spontaneous outbreaks of disco
fever are rife and encouraged. The scruffy furnishings, red
lighting and cheeky photos on the wall exemplify the
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Nightlife
balance between sexiness and silliness embodied by the
randy retro-chic clientele, and Maanas down-to-earth
attitude and funky playlist of favourites from the last 50
years make it one of the most appealing places in the city
to squander your brain cells. With the addition of a VIP room
and the opening of the large summer terrace theres now
even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocaws
lookers.QE4, ul. w. Mikoaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 343 43
70, www.mananacafe.pl. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 05:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. G
NIETOTA
One of Wrocaws most original venues, Nietota is a
place for artsy discourse, self-destructive decadence and
debauchery. An awful lot of time has gone into the decor
with almost every surface covered in highly-illustrative
original artwork that gives the space a grotesque, creepycool nacht-cabaret atmosphere where concerts and
theatre troops take the stage between weekend DJ nights.
Completely unique in style and atmosphere, the drinks
list is also exceptional with Lindemans cherry lambic to
candy the lips of the ladies and delicious Czech Litovel on
draught. Well worth seeking out.QA3, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 50, tel. (+48) 664 00 76 10. Open 15:00 - 04:00,
Sun 16:00 - 02:00. EGW
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PRIV
The scene of some of the hottest weekend parties in
Wrocaw at the moment, the newly renovated PRIV directly
collaborates with a network of clubs in London, resulting
in the regular appearance of some of the biggest names
in the UKs club scene handling the DJ decks. Of course it
can feel a bit unfriendly at the door, but once inside youll
find an intimate club with a modern greyscale design,
amazing sound, VIP room (for up to 20 peeps), lights and
eye-candy convulsing on two dance floors - one devoted
to house music, and the other RnB.QB3, Rynek 36/37,
tel. (+48) 609 66 96 96. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 04:00. XW
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
NEW
MALAWI NIGHT CLUB
Describing themselves as high-end and ultra-modern,
Malawi offers all the pleasures youd seek in this type
of locale: that is, pole dancing, striptease, massages,
and a six-person bath, where youd presumably be
accompanied by attractive women and not just your
mates. Located a 12-minutes away by foot from the
market square.QE4, ul. Aleksandra Zelwerowicza
18A, tel. (+48) 508 50 83 93, www.malawi.wroclaw.
pl. Open 21:00 - 06:00. X
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51
Theres always plenty of colour in Wrocaw, even in winter. | CCat8 - dollar photo club
Wrocaw Sightseeing
Built upon dozens of islands, the river is never far away - nor is an eye-opening
view (see above). From ancient architecture to modish murals and Soviet-era
neons, Wrocaw has it all and more; so put that drink down and go discover all
there is to see and do in this incredible city.
Sightseeing
Of all the cities in Poland, Wrocaw possesses perhaps
the most convoluted and turbulent history of them all.
Known under dozens of different names as it was passed
repeatedly between four countries (and the numerous
kingdoms that preceded them), Wrocaw was one of
the most culturally and architecturally diverse cities in
Central Europe before being reduced to rubble a mere 65
years ago. As the city proudly and painstakingly rebuilt
itself, the post-war period saw a new wave of migrants
from todays western Ukraine enrich not only Wrocaws
ethnic makeup, but also its cultural wealth as many
cultural treasures from Lww were transplanted here.
Since shedding the yoke of communism in 1989 and
being rediscovered by the west, Wrocaw has firmly
established itself among Prague and Krakw as one of
Eastern Europes top tourist destinations and one of the
undisputed highlights of Poland.
WHAT TO SEE
If we think about Wrocaws city centre in terms of districts,
there are three essential areas that visitors shouldnt
allow themselves to miss. The first is obviously the Old
Town, with the marvellously restored Market Square at
its centre and its maze of cobbled streets, canals, bridges
and church spires. Essentially bound by the Odra River
to the north and the Fosa Miejska - or city moat - to the
south, this area that was once encircled by the citys
medieval defensive walls is where youll find the bulk of
Wrocaws historical monuments and museums, as well
as many beautiful University buildings, soaring churches,
and the citys infamous gnomes. The Old Town also
includes the District of Mutual Respect (E/F-4) - a unique
neighbourhood southwest of the market square which
includes almost side by side the places of worship of four
different denominations, including the citys only surviving
Jewish synagogue.
/polandinyourpocket
The Old Town may be the heart of Wrocaw, but its soul is in
Ostrw Tumski (C/D-2, p.64). This Cathedral Island within
easy walking distance northeast of the market square was
the first part of Wrocaw to be settled by Slavic tribes in the
9th century. Since a bishopric was built there in 1000AD
it has remained an important place of royal and religious
significance, and home to the citys most important
Cathedral.
Finally, no visit to Wrocaw is complete without a trip east
of the Old Town to Centennial Hall (I-4, p.67). The citys
only UNESCO World Heritage site, this outstanding piece
of architecture turned 100 in 2013 and is surrounded by
beautiful parks and gardens, including Wrocaws Zoo and a
spectacular multimedia fountain (closed for winter). Enjoy
exploring Wrocaw.
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WAIT, WHERE AM I?
53
Gosiek-B, istockphoto.com
Sightseeing
GUIDED TOURS
MARKET SQUARE
55
Sightseeing
WROCAW UNIVERSITY
CHURCHES
Sightseeing
MONUMENTS
MONUMENT TO THE VICTIMS
OF THE KATY MASSACRE
Anyone who has an unindoctrinated knowledge of World
War II history or who has
spent more than 15 minutes
in Poland, is probably familiar
with the subject of this memorial which remembers the
22,000 Polish military officers,
policemen, intelligentsia and
POWs murdered by the NKVD
on Stalins orders in 1940.
Designed by Warsaw sculptor Tadeusz Tchrzewski, the
striking monument depicts the sword-wielding Angel of
Death on a high pedestal over the figure of Katy Pieta - the
Matron of the Homeland despairing over the body of a murdered prisoner of war. Symbolic granite walls/graves flank
the scene, with the names of the POW camps and places of
mass murder inscribed on them. Anguished, terrifying and
gruesome in turn, with detail down to the bullethole in the
back of the fallen officers head, this evocative monument
was unveiled in 1999 and can be found in the park next to
the Racawice Panorama.QD3, Sowacki Park.
THE ANONYMOUS PEDESTRIANS
When youre tired of gazing at Wrocaws multitude of
cherubs, gargoyles and bearded national heroes clutching
important pens and looking frightfully serious, hike on
down to this intersection to have a look at an entirely
different take on public art. The wonderfully lifelike bronze
statues descending into the earth are a memorial to the
introduction of martial law on December 13, 1981, and the
hordes of people who disappeared (went underground)
in the middle of the night courtesy of the militia. The work
of Jerzy Kalina, the 14 statues were erected here in the
middle of the night in 2005 on the 24th anniversary of the
introduction of martial law, though the prophetic moulds
were actually made several years before the events they
commemorate.QA5, Corner of ul. Pisudskiego and ul.
widnicka.
THE NAKED SWORDSMAN
The University of Wrocaw presents plenty of superb
photographic opportunities, but the most popular has to
be the naked swordsman proudly exhibiting himself at the
entrance of the main building. The work of Hugo Lederer,
the splendidly anatomical sculpture was erected in 1904
and prompted complaints from parish priests that students
would be morally corrupted by the statues naked form.
Early grumblings were countered by the legend that the
statue represents an extravagant gambler who squandered
all but his sword in drunken card games - thus serving as an
example to the universitys 30,000+ students. Town mayor
George Bender agreed and the statue has stood ever since.
QB2, Pl. Uniwersytecki.
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TOURIST INFORMATION
INFOWRO JATKI WROCAW
QA2, ul. Jatki 24, tel. (+48) 71 344 41 16. Open
10:00 - 18:00.
LOWER SILESIAN CULTURAL INFORMATION
CENTRE
QA3, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,
www.dcik.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
TOURIST INFORMATION
QA3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71 344 31 11, www.
wroclaw-info.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. W
SKY TOWER
Completed in 2012,
Wrocaw boasts the tallest building in Poland,
which rises some 212m
into the atmosphere.
Comprising a small city
in and of itself, with residential apartments, offices, shops, restaurants,
entertainment and more
over its 50 floors, tourists
have plenty of reasons to
visit this modern architectural marvel, including
the largest pool hall in PL,
a 24-lane bowling alley
(see Leisure), an oversized Salvador Dali sculpture, and an amazing interactive installation of 60 screens that react to the movement of visitors as they engage the 40m2 exhibit on the
first floor (note though that this isnt always running).
The highlight, however, is the year-round indoor viewing point on the 49th floor. At a height of 200 metres,
this is the highest panoramic view point in Poland, and
accessed by an elevator which whisks you to the top in
less than a minute. Located only minutes from the Old
Town, take trams 7 or 20, getting off at Wielka.QE6,
ul. Powstacw lskich 95, www.galeria.skytower.
pl. View point open Mon-Thu 09:00 - 20:30, Fri-Sat
09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Access is granted
every 30mins on the :00 and :30 marks. View point
admission Mon-Fri 11/6z, Sat-Sun 15/8z; children
3 and under free. Ticket office on level +1; clearly
marked signs will guide you there. N
January - April 2016
57
Sightseeing
WROCAW
CONTEMPORARY MUSEUM
This old air raid shelter just west of the Old Town has
been resurrected as a place for contemporary art in
Wrocaw. The round and concrete above-ground
bunker has been cleverly adapted with an elevator at
its centre which whizzes you up to the fantastic 6th
floor cafe, which features a terrace and great views, and
may just be the highlight of visiting here. As for the art,
the permanent exhibit focuses on contemporary art
from the 20th Century with a strong Wrocaw presence
and they have numerous temporary exhibitions
(see our Culture & Events section to see whats on).
The most striking pieces in the whole collection are
outside the museum itself. Local artist Stanisaw
Drds Hour-glass on the facade of the building
and the amazing and enormous Train to Heaven
sculpture of a vertical locomotive nearby will make
you get your camera out. To get there, hop on trams
3, 10, 20, 23, or 33 (quite a bit of choice there) at the
Rynek stop, getting off 3 stops later at Pl. Strzegomski.
Keep in mind that this is only a temporary location - a
new museum headquarters is set to spring up on ul.
Purkyniego (C-3), near the Racawice Panorama, the
Museum of Architecture, and the Academy of Fine Arts.
QPl. Strzegomski 2a (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356
42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free
for permanent exhibit; temporary exhibits 10/5z,
family ticket 15z, Thu admission free. U
58 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
MUSEUMS
ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
Like all the best museums in Poland, Wrocaws
Archaeological Museum is located inside a building
thats a museum in itself. In this instance the citys former
15th-century Arsenal plays host to the usual suspects
found lurking in most museums of its type. There are
English captions now for many exhibits, while others,
such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched
house fascinate without the need to know more. With
four free permanent exhibits - Stone Age and early
Bronze Age, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Medieval Silesia,
displays include everyday objects from these times such
as weapons, ornaments and tools; note that temporary
exhibits sometimes require an additional paid ticket. In
the same building youll also find the Military Museum.
QA2, ul. Cieszyskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96,
www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent
exhibits. U
ARCHITECTURE MUSEUM
Located inside a gorgeous 16th century monastery,
the citys architecture museum is actually more of a
decorative and applied arts museum, with much of
the collections consisting of decorative details from
the built environment that were lost during WWII.
Permanent displays include beautiful examples of
stained glass from the 12th century to the Art Nouveau
era, a collection of tiled ceramic stoves, intricate door
handles, a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles, and a
large model of the city as it was in 1740, which clearly
shows its status as a fortress surrounded by water.
Keeps your eyes peeled for occasional temporary
exhibits as well, which usually require an admission fee.
QC3, ul. Bernardyska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78,
www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free
for permanent exhibits. U
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
Located outside the Old Town in the gorgeous 18thcentury Neo-Baroque summer palace of Wrocaws
bishops, this under-appreciated museum traces Silesian
folk culture and customs. The best part may be the top
floor where life-sized dolls are arranged in quaint scenes
of life in the region before 1945. It wont take you long
to see it, but the national costumes and farm equipment
offer a glimpse of life you wont find in urban Wrocaw.
And the museums strange fondness for the definite
article in the English labels is worth a giggle. To get there
take tram 3 from Rynek, getting off at Pl. Zgody.QH5,
ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, www.
muzeumetnograficzne.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3z, children
under 7 free, groups of over 10 pay 2z per person,
Sat free. Admission free with a ticket to the Racawice
Panorama. UN
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Sightseeing
MILITARY MUSEUM
The other half of the 15thcentury arsenal that houses
the Archaeology Museum
is, appropriately, the Military
Museum. Not surprisingly, the
medieval halls are filled with
arms and weapons of all sorts,
many of them dating to the
18th century. Helmets, swords and guns are the forte here,
and you probably know better than we do if its worth the
hour of your time itll consume.QA2, ul. Cieszyskiego
9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free
for permanent exhibit; temporary exhibits 15/10z.
NATIONAL MUSEUM
Wrocaws National Museum houses one of the largest
collections of Polish art. Before the 18th century this means
almost exclusively religious art: altarpieces, urns for relics,
busts of saints and the like. Later parts of the collection
also include applied arts and quite a few pieces on national
themes (uprisings and saints figure heavily in Polish history).
Unfortunately, the best bits are moving to the Four Domes
Pavilion at Centennial Hall - which will open as a new
branch of the National Museum dedicated to contemporary
art sometime in 2016 - and arent on view at the moment.
QD3, Pl. Powstacw Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51
50, www.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. From April open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z, students
under 26 (with ID) 1z, children under 7 free, Sat free for
permanent exhibitions, groups of over 10 people 5z per
person. Admission free with a ticket from the nearby
Racawice Panorama. U
POST & COMMUNICATIONS MUSEUM
Housed inside 1929s former Central Post Office, this
magnificent building was one of the first high-rises in
Wrocaw and is easily recognisable from the Old Town thanks
to the crown of satellite dishes on its roof. Today it houses
one of the citys most idiosyncratic and fascinating museums,
displaying the complex history of Polands postal service
and the development of communications technology from
the 16th century to the present day. Over two floors youll
see a wealth of paintings and graphics, postage stamps,
mailboxes, mail carriages, uniforms, decorative letter scales
and other instruments including early telegram machines,
telephones, radios and computers. The unique and
engrossing experience even includes information in English
and is a great way to change your attitude towards PLs postal
service from one of frustration to admiration and wonder.
Visiting takes about 1 hour and is recommended. English
language guided group tours are available if arranged in
advance.QC3, ul. Krasiskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 343 67
65, www.muzeum.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00, Wed
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission
8/6z, Sun free, Weds 15:00 - 17:00 2z; family ticket 15z.
Groups over 10 people 5z per person. N
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KONSPIRA
In addition to being a fantastically
cheap Polish restaurant, Konspira
is a self-declared Centre for
Historical Education. The interior
is designed to emulate the 1980s,
while giving guests a glimpse into
the Soviet era via newspapers,
posters, political cartoons and
other iconography on the walls. None of this would
be particularly useful to naive non-Polish speakers,
but Konspira has another rabbit in its hat thats
worth revealing. One of the restaurants wardrobes is
actually a secret passageway into a hidden room that
recreates an 80s Polish apartment, filled with everyday
household items, toys, appliances, and even police
batons and riot gear from the martial law days. Its a
unique look into the past, and the fact that the staff
isnt that forthcoming about it (you might have to ask)
almost makes the act of entry feel cooly clandestine.
This entire establishment is a bit of a museum, and
though youll get more out of it with a local guide,
even without one its worth investigating; and the food
is certainly worth staying for.QA3, Pl. Solny 11, tel.
(+48) 796 32 66 00, www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
January - April 2016
59
Sightseeing
RACAWICE PANORAMA
This unique 15 by 140m panoramic painting depicts
the first battle of the Kociuszko Uprising, in which
General Tadeusz Kociuszko orchestrated and led
an armed peasant rebellion against Russian rule
in a heroic bid for Polish independence in 1794.
Kosciuszkos rag-tag scythe-wielding troops won the
day, but the Uprising was ultimately doomed and
Poland wouldnt be truly self-governing until the 20th
century. That hasnt stopped the short-lived victory
from being an enduring source of Polish pride to this
day, however.
The Panorama was created in a burst of patriotic fervour
by Jan Styka and Wojciech Kossak in Lww over 9
months, and completed in 1894. Their work, displayed
in a rotunda built especially for it, was a popular and financial - success. After WWII, the Soviet Union,
which absorbed Lww (now Lviv, Ukraine), sent the
painting to Wrocaw. Its subject, however, was a bit too
nationalistic for the local Communist authorities, who
rejected several bids to display it. The current building
was completed in 1967, but the Panorama itself was
not installed for display until 1985. Unfortunately
almost nothing has changed since then, and the overpriced attraction is run in the same manner it was 30
years ago. Still, an unbelievable 1,600 people (including
dozens of school groups) file through each day, so
dont expect to just walk right in; admission occurs
every half-hour and youll very likely have to wait. The
painting is augmented with lights and artificial terrain
to make the experience more real as you are narrated
through the battle by a taped lecture on your own
private headset which is available in an astounding 17
languages (including Esperanto). Poles will consider it
their patriotic duty to come here, but the experience
may resonate less positively with other tourists, unless
youre a fan of obscure and forgotten genres of 19th
century art.QC3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344
23 44, www.panoramaraclawicka.pl. Open 09:00
- 16:00. Admission 30/23z, family ticket 23z per
person, children under 7 free. U
Sightseeing
PLACES OF INTEREST
PARTISAN HILL
If youre walking along ul. Ks. Skargi its impossible to miss
the grandiose crescent-shaped structure rising above Most
Skargi. One of the few remaining ancient fortifications that
once protected the Old Town from invasion, Partisan Hill was
built between 1594 and 1598, and originally awarded the
name Bastion Sakwowy (Saddlebag Bastion). The buildings
you see today date from the 19th century, however, when
the area was redeveloped as public recreational space. A
fearsome tower designed by Berlin architect Carl Schmidt
was added in 1867, though this was demolished during
WWII to prevent advancing Russian troops from using it
as a reference point for artillery shelling. At the start of the
Siege of 1945 the subterranean bunkers and catacombs
were used as HQ by Nazi high command, though they
relocated in March 1945 as the Red Army drew closer.
After the war the hillock was oddly re-christened Partisan
Hill and the old cellars temporarily housed a museum.
Sadly sold to private investors in the 1990s, and having
since been occupied by beer gardens, strip clubs and
restaurants, today the area lies in complete disarray, forlorn
and forgotten - a once gleaming construction littered with
smashed bottles and spray can squiggles. At the moment a
fence feebly attempts to cordon off the crumbling arcades,
while two bars keep parts of this complex accessible to the
public - Wicars Pub in the cellars, and Colloseum Jazz Club
in the old observatory at the top. Partisan Hills legends of
Nazi tunnels and medieval torture chambers, combined
with the creepy, wind-swept loneliness of the site today,
make this place a must for those who enjoy the thrill of
urban trespassing.QB4, ul. Ks. Skargi.
/polandinyourpocket
STARE JATKI
One of Wrocaws most engaging streets, ul. Jatki is no more
than one city block long, connecting ul. Kiebanicza with
ul. Odrzaska. Its picturesque charm is no doubt due to the
fact that it has retained its medieval character throughout
the ages; though most of the structures on Stare Jatki date
from the 17th and 18th centuries, the line of low level
buildings were constructed on medieval foundations
and some elements from the 13th century are still visible
on the south side of the street. Though in past times the
principal industry here was meat - butchered beasts filled
the wooden stalls, today the alleyway is home to numerous
artists studios and souvenir stalls. The defining feature of
Stare Jatki is the collection of cast iron farm animals at the
start of the street. Sculpted by Piotr Wieczorek and erected
in the 1990s this Memorial to Slaughtered Animals was
funded by the local government, and in addition to being
one of Wrocaws most photographed attractions, also
serves as an obstacle course for party casualties pouring
out of Klub Na Jatkach.QA2, ul. Jatki.
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STREET ART
61
Sightseeing
NEON WROCAW
THE OSSOLINEUM
This stunning Baroque palace complex on the Odra riverbank
was rebuilt to its late 17th century designs after being
damaged heavily during WWII and is today one of the most
outstanding works of Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a
hospital and convent, later a college, today the magnificent
grounds are home to the Ossolineum Library - an important
research centre and national archive, the countrys oldest
still-running publishing centre and one of its largest library
collections. Established in 1817 by Jzef Maksymilian
Ossoliski when he began collecting Polish manuscripts
and cultural documents in his Vienna flat, recognising their
importance to national culture after Poland was wiped from
the world map, Ossoliskis private library became a national
institute and was eventually moved to Lviv where it expanded
generously. After post-war border changes the collection
was moved to Wrocaw, however communist authorities
confiscated over 80% of it which presumably remains in Lviv
today. The collections of the Ossolineum are some of the
most valuable in the country and include manuscripts by
Polish bards Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Sowacki, writings
by Copernicus, and drawings by Rembrandt and Durer. The
site of regular free exhibitions (which have their own opening
hours), the Ossolineum is otherwise worth a look around
for the building itself, with the library and inner and outer
courtyards all accessible to the public.QB2, ul. Szewska 37,
tel. (+48) 71 344 44 71, www.ossolineum.pl. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun.
WATER TOWER
Modelled on a medieval castle, this architectural
masterpiece only a short tram ride south of the centre
shouldnt be missed. Originally designed by Karl Klimm,
an eminent Breslau architect and the brains behind the
Zwierzyniecki Bridge (J-4), the 63m tower was completed
in 1905 and supplied water to the residents of southern
Wrocaw, with the base of the building used to house
employees. From its beginnings this fairytale tower was
equipped with an electric lift to whisk visitors to the top
for panoramic views; costing 10 pfennigs, a clear day
would afford sightseers uninterrupted views of the Sudety
Mountains 100kms away, and a red flag would wave from
the top whenever viewing was deemed particularly good.
The sculptors Taschner and Bednorz added several intricate
carvings to the sandstone, including medieval style bas
reliefs depicting winged beasts engaged in gruesome
scenes, and a spectacular fountain spouting water from the
underground spring below the building. During the 1945
Siege of Breslau the tower served as a military observation
point, and in spite of heavy shelling in the immediate
vicinity survived largely unscathed. Up until the 80s it
continued to function as a water plant, though black with
soot and pockmarked with bullet holes. In 1995 it was
purchased by Stephan Elektronik Investment and restored
it to its former glory. Unfortunately theres no viewing
platform at the top today, but if you make the trip you can
dine inside at the Wiea Cinie bistro and restaurant. To
get there hop on tram numbers 2, 6 or 7, getting off at the
Pl. Powstacw lskich stop.QE7, ul. Sudecka 125a.
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Wrocaws Gnomes
After the eventual fall of communism in Poland, gnomes
remained a symbol of Wrocaw, repurposed by the new
government to be a tribute to the Orange Movement, as
well as playful, family-friendly ambassadors of the city.
63
Ostrw Tumski
The less celebrated back view of Wrocaw Cathedral | Patryk Michalski, Dollar Photo Club
city has sadly seen its share of floods since then as well).
Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek, perhaps the real
joy of Ostrw Tumski is its other-worldly feel. Katedralna
and Idziego Streets both provide cobbled reminders of
the past - Idziego especially, though it lacks the postcard
worthy sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous
street, still lit today by original gas lamps and providing the
perfect frame for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll.
Keep your eyes peeled at dusk for the districts famous
lamplighter as he goes about his daily duty of lighting
Ostw Tumskis gas lamps by hand.
WHAT TO SEE
A visit to this lovely, peaceful part of Wrocaw rightly begins
at Most Piaskowy (Sand Bridge, C-2). This is the oldest
bridge in Wrocaw, built in 1861 and an engineering marvel,
if no great shakes on the design front. The original bridge,
built back in the 11th century, was part of the ancient trade
route - the Amber Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to
Vienna, and thence to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi
you will pass the Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and
Methodius, the Baroque-era University Library, and the
Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous
for its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern
nave. From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski
(Tumski Bridge, C-2) leads you across to the oldest part of
the city; look out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig),
Silesias patron saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocaws patron,
at the head of the bridge. Also of note are the padlocks
placed on the bridge by newlyweds to symbolise the
unbreakable bond they share going forward in life together.
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Ostrw Tumski
Following ul. Katedralna from there youll first come across the
Church of Saints Peter & Paul before reaching the impressive
monument of John of Nepomuk standing beneath the
Church of the Holy Cross, a rare two-level church with
two separate parishes. Continuing down picturesque ul.
Katedralna youll pass two of the neighbourhoods only
places to rest and refuel - Cafeterie Chic at Katedralna 6 and
Lwia Brama at Katedralna 9 - before standing beneath the
beautiful Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (D-2), famous
for its stunning stained glass windows and 16th century
altarpiece. To the right of the Cathedrals main portal is the
Archbishops Palace, now the Archdiocese Museum (the
Archbishop lives elsewhere these days).
THE LAMPLIGHTER
65
Ostrw Tumski
CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST
One of Wrocaws most enduring icons, the elegant
double-spires of this Gothic building stands like a
sentinels at the end of ul. Katedralna, and its elaborate
portal one of the most valuable medieval artefacts
in Wrocaw. What we see today is in fact the fourth
church to be built on this site. When construction
began in 1244, this was the first brick building in Poland.
Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued for
five more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic
interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522,
showing the Virgin Mary having a nap. Youll also see
the largest organ in Poland, which prior to the war was
also the largest in the world. The real highlight of the
Cathedral, however, is the panoramic view from one of
its towers, which can be yours for 5z during the warm
months (weather dependent); unlike the arduous climbs
required for Wrocaws other church towers, here an
elevator takes you to the top where youll find a small
exhibition in addition to the wonderful views.QD2, Pl.
Katedralny 18, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.katedra.
archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 09:45 - 17:30, Sun 14:00 16:00. No visiting during mass please.
Centennial Hall
67
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
GETTING THERE
Photo: B. Maliszewska
SZCZYTNICKI PARK
A stroll beyond the Pergola colonnades put you in
Szczytnicki Park, the oldest and largest recreation space in
the city. Covering 115 hectares and laid out in 1785, the
once well-groomed former estate park suffered devastation
during the Napoleonic Wars and WWII and today largely
resembles a natural landscape within the city borders. While
there, keep your eyes peeled for the small Church of St.
John of Nepomuk - a marvellous 14th century wooden
church moved to the park from the Opole region and
miraculously undamaged during the war.QI3/4.
January - April 2016
69
Jewish Wrocaw
Jewish Wrocaw
OLD JEWISH CEMETERY
Established in 1856, this 4.6 hectare cemetery is perhaps
the most well-preserved testament to the former strength
of Breslaus pre-war Jewish community, with over 1200
gravestones. Closed in 1942, the cemetery quickly fell into
deep neglect: in 1945 it was turned into a fortress by the
Nazis and saw fierce fighting as evidenced by the eerie
bullet holes in many of the gravestones. Preservation began
in the 1970s and in 1991 it was opened as the Museum of
Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute to the craftsmanship of its
sepulchral art. Indeed the beauty and diversity of styles
and symbols on display is perhaps unmatched anywhere.
Many noteworthy figures are buried here, including the
renowned biologist Ferdinand Cohn, the historian Heinrich
Graetz (author of the first complete history of the Jews),
Clara Immerwahl (first female PhD student at the University
of Breslau, and wife of Fritz Haber, who committed suicide
in objection to her husbands work developing chemical
warfare), Ferdinand Lassalle (founder and leader of the
first labour party in Germany, killed in a duel), and the
parents of Edith Stein; using old records some of their
tombstones are slowly being restored. However, despite
these modest efforts the lna Street Cemetery remains
a completely mysterious and evocative sanctuary of
decaying vine-covered monuments, the broken pieces of
which are stacked against each other, giving shelter to stray
cats and shade to wildflowers. Well worth a visit, a highly
informative accompanying booklet (in Polish, English or
German) makes it even more so, despite being overpriced
at 15z.QE/F7, ul. lna 37/39, tel. (+48) 71 791 59 04,
www.mmw.pl. Open 09:00 till dusk. Admission 15/10z,
Thu free.
CI CAFE
After renovations, the Jewish Information Centre
has reopened as CI Cafe - a kosher coffeehouse,
bookshop and tourist info centre. In addition to
being a new venue for Jewish-related lectures,
workshops and other events, this outfit also
arranges Jewish walking tours of Wrocaw. While
youre there enjoy coffee, tea, cakes and muffins.
QE4, ul. Wodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 787 39 02,
www.wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Fri 09:00 until dusk, Sat 17:00 - 22:00. GW
THE BENTE KAHAN FOUNDATION
Founded in 2006 to accomplish the renovation of the
Synagogue, this outfit organises the monthly events that
take place there, including exhibitions, film screenings,
workshops, lectures, language courses, concerts, theatre
performances and more. For info about Jewish events in
Wrocaw, start here.QE4, ul. Wodkowica 5, tel. (+48)
71 782 81 23, www.fbk.org.pl.
January - April 2016
71
Leisure
Here there be hippos! The Zoo has been more popular than ever since the opening of the new Africarium; more on page 67.
ICE SKATING
PERGOLA ICE RINK
Wrocaws best outdoor ice rink, this year the Wrocaw
Fountain has once again been converted into a 900 square
metre(!) ice patch, and shall remain so until mid-March. Note
that there is a one-off entrance fee which gives you unlimited
time as long as you remain on the ice; if you leave you have
to pay all over again.QI4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71
347 50 56, www.halastulecia.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, with
1hr maintanance breaks at 15:00 and 19:00. Admission
8/5z. Skate hire 6z/hr (plus a crazy 200z deposit!).
WROCAW STADIUM ICE RINK
Located just north-west of the city centre, Wrocaws
impressive stadium was raised in the build-up to the
Euro 2012 football championships. In the deep winter
(December until end of February) the grass gives way to
the citys largest ice floe. Public ice time is weekdays 15:00 22:00, weekends 09:00 - 22:00 (note that the ice is cleaned
from 13:00 - 14:00). Admission is 9/8z/hr and skate rental is
an additional 6z. Get there easily via trams 10 and 20.QAl.
lska 1, tel. (+48) 71 776 80 00.
INDOOR ATTRACTIONS
BOBOLANDIA
Located just north of the city centre, Bobolandia is the
largest family amusement centre in Poland, offering 3000
square metres of fun and attractions. Pretty much every
kids dream, this family funhouse includes all kinds of plush
and inflatable play areas and jungle gyms, trampolines,
ball pits, slides, sandboxes and more, plus pool tables, air
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Leisure
hockey and arcade games. Theres also a restaurant. As you
could probably spend all day here (and your child will no
doubt want to), tickets are sold at a flat day rate of 29z per
kid on weekdays (19z if you arrive after 17:00), 32z per
kid on weekends (21z after 17:00). The nice part is adults
only pay 5z and are likely to have a great time also.Qul.
Jana Dugosza 59-75 (Psie Pole), tel. (+48) 71 793 77 44,
www.bobolandia.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
NEW
EXIT ROOM
Think you can escape from a locked, puzzle-filled room in 60
minutes using only your wits? Escape games have gotten
rather popular of late as a more intellectual alternative to say - bowling or billiards, so grab a few friends, take a deep
breath, and put your collective problem-solving skills to the
test as the timer ticks down to your demise. You can choose
from one of four themed rooms: Saw, Cube, Sexmission
(named after the Polish cult film), and Paranormal.QA3,
Rynek 2/4, tel. (+48) 790 36 97 96, www.exitroom.pl.
Open 13:15 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:15 - 21:00.
KWATERA GWNA
Organised laser tag in a specially designed maze arena for
2-10 person groups. Reservations recommended.QC1,
ul. Sienkiewicza 8a, tel. (+48) 531 63 80 00, www.
kwateraglowna.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. 40z per person
per hour.
SWIMMING
WROCAW AQUAPARK
Completed in 2008,
Wrocaws water park
is easily one of the
finest in the country
and makes for a nice
respite from the citys
confoundingly complex history and highminded cultural attractions. And its probably the only
place your kids will tell their friends about from their trip
to Wrocaw. While the main attractions are surely the indoor and outdoor recreational swimming pools with their
water slides (including the most recent addition - a multimedia slide involving lights and music to distract you as
you plummet), wave machines, lazy river and other wonders, a fitness centre, restaurant, cafe, bar and shop are
also on hand, making a trip to the Aqua Park a full days
outing, just south of the train station. From the city centre
you can take trams 8, 9, 15, 31 or 32, and bus numbers
113, 145, 146 or 612.QF6, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48)
71 771 15 11, www.aquapark.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 23:00. Fitness Centre, saunas and sport pool all have
independent hours. Check the website for exact times.
Admission 19/17z per hour, 49/39z for a day pass on
weekdays; 22/18z per hour, 55/45z for a day pass on
weekends.
vine.co/inyourpocket
MONOPOL SPA & WELLNESS CENTRE
Descend beneath the grandeur of the Monopol hotel to
find one of the citys premier spa and wellness centres
including a gym, counter-current swimming pool, fountain
and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy steam bath and salt
and iodine cave. Massages, face and body treatments are
also available.QA4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol
Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50, www.monopolwroclaw.
hotel.com.pl. Spa open 09:00 - 21:00; Wellness Centre
06:00 - 22:00.
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket
73
Shopping
Right on the Rynek, head to Wrocaw Souvenirs (p.78) for souvenirs that say you were in Wrocaw.
PIWOCZAS
A convenience store for beer connoisseurs, here you can
deliberate over your decision as long as you like, and take
as many beers home with you as you can fit under your arm
(or in your suitcase). There are over 600 choice brews from
Poland and abroad, and they stay open late on the weekends
so you can have a nightcap in your room when the bars wear
you out. Second location at ul. Tczowa 22 (E-4).QE4, ul.
w. Antoniego 27/29, tel. (+48) 506 16 28 42, www.
piwoczas.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.
Shopping
ART & ANTIQUES
Antiques are a popular commodity in Poland and youll
find no shortage of antiquated oddities in Wrocaw. As you
walk about town keep your eyes peeled for signage with
the inscriptions Antyki,Antykwariat and Starocie (junk); ul.
Kiebanicza (A-3) is a good place to start. Knowledgeable
dealers offer prices comparable with the rest of Europe, but
there are still plenty of bargains and undervalued treasures
to be found. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art that
is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value
out of the country, youll have to get some papers in order
first. Most proper dealers can provide this straight-away,
but you may want to check before opening your wallet.
For artisan galleries in Wrocaw, head straight to ul. Jatki
(A-2). In addition to being Wrocaws oldest, most narrow,
and most charming street, this row of former medieval
butcher stalls is today home to numerous artist studios and
galleries. For non-commercial art gallery listings, visit our
Culture section.
ANTYKI PRZY SZEWSKIEJ
A very professional and absolutely gorgeous antique shop
uniquely located under the Gothic arches of St. Mary
Magdalenes Church. With over 5000 items for sale from
all over the world - including furniture, lamps, paintings,
graphics, porcelain, glass silver and more - its also the
largest antiques salon in Wrocaw. All items also available
for sale online - visit the website.QB3, ul. Szewska 10, tel.
(+48) 71 341 81 84, www.antykiszewska.pl. Open 14:00
- 19 00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
INNY WIAT W PIWNICZCE GOTYCKIEJ
76 square metres of art and antiques from all over the world
located in a Gothic brick cellar. The extensive collection
includes a large range of silver, porcelain, Art Nouveau glass,
Art Deco furniture, Polish and German graphics, paintings
and sculpture.QA3, ul. Kiebanicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 344
61 03. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:15 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
POLISH POSTER GALLERY
Poland has a proud tradition of graphic art design for film
and theatre, which has basically developed into its own
genre. This fantastic gallery is the place to check it out
by browsing through binders full of hundreds of designs,
many of them in stock and others available to order. Find
alternative film posters you never knew existed for your
favourite flicks, plus amazing propaganda and theatre
posters. A great place for souvenirs and gifts, if you arent
into travelling with a poster tube, check out the amazing
postcard collection. Anyone who appreciates graphic art
will be glad to discover this place; recommended.QE4,
ul. w. Mikoaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, www.
polishposter.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
@WroclawIYP
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket
POLISH VODKA
75
Shopping
MARKETS
HALA TARGOWA
SHOPIQ
If youre interested in checking out some local art and
supporting the local scene, drop by this very cool
gallery full of graphics, photos, illustrations, screenprints,
paintings and more by local artists. They also have quite an
assortment of new and used records to peruse, which you
can trade for your own if you happened to leave home with
some of your least essential records in your suitcase.QE4,
ul. w. Antoniego 28, tel. (+48) 512 48 22 94, www.
shopiq.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
DE MOLIKA
The closest thing in Wrocaw to the indie record store youve
always wanted to open. Run by two devoted owners, this
tiny shop has all the new and vintage vinyl you wont find in
the megastores, plus tonnes of CDs.QB4, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48) 71 346 89 26. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
EMPIK MEGASTORE
This massive store selling books, music, movies, video
games, coffee, greeting cards and more, also has the best
selection of foreign papers and magazines in town, though
you can expect to pay a hefty mark-up for the privilege.
Dictionaries, phrase books, maps and a limited English
language fiction section are also inside. Other locations
in Magnolia Park, Pasa Grunwaldzki and Renoma (see
Shopping Malls).QB3, Rynek 50, tel. (+48) 695 73 07 24,
www.empik.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
youtube.com/inyourpocket
TAJNE KOMPLETY
Wrocaws finest bookstore, located right in the Town Hall.
With a bit of an alternative bent, and a surprisingly good
English language selection, Tajny Komplety is the kind
of place you could spend the entire day nosing through
comics, art books and even vinyl records. It twins as a cafe,
so dont expect to be the only one there taking advantage
of the free wifi, coffee, tea, cakes and more.QB3,
Przejcie Garncarskie 2, tel. (+48) 71 714 23 80, www.
tajnekomplety.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
WINYLOVE
Under the arcades near Plac Kociuszki, this vinyl retailer
is actually located on the half-floor above/inside the Pod
Arkadami bookstore (not much of an English section, but
go ahead and ask them to show you). Find crates of used
records at good prices and theres even a record player
where you can actually listen before buying.QA5, ul.
widnicka 49, tel. (+48) 796 46 68 12, www.winylove.
com.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
FU-KU
Located inside Galeria Na Czystej - a small modern building
hidden behind the Renoma shopping mall - youll find one
of Wrocaws best swag shops for the fashionable young
urbanite. Peruse the piles and racks of fannypacks, handbags
made from vinyl records, LEGO earrings, zipper jewellery,
asymmetrical sweaters and so much more - all of it totally
trendy, hip, hand-made and designed in Poland. Second
location inside Sky Tower (ul. Powstacw lskich 95, E-6).
QB5, ul. Czysta 4, tel. (+48) 795 27 88 39, www.fu-ku.pl.
Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
MOHER VINTAGE & DESIGN
Located in a highly enviable retail space just off the
market square down ul. Wizienna, this large and beautiful
boutique/concept store features upscale vintage clothing,
designer shoes, signature furnishings, hip fashion accessories
and more. Come to browse the racks, stay for a coffee,
conversation and style tips from the fashionable young
ladies working here.QB3, ul. Igielna 14/15 (entrance from
ul. Wizienna), tel. (+48) 71 341 80 77, www.moher.com.
pl. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
UBIERALNIA
This small shop on one of Wrocaws most engaging
streets sells high-quality womens fashion and accessories
by top young local designers. Girlfriends love it.QE4, ul.
Wodkowica 19, tel. (+48) 508 10 78 73, www.ubieralnia.
pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Gifts
& Souvenirs
Geschenke
Regalos
77
Shopping
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
CEPELIA
For over 55 years, this well-recognised company has been
promoting and preserving Polish folk art and handicrafts
with a wide selection of ceramics, wood carvings, knitwork,
wickery and much more. A lot of its touristy rubbish, but
weve always fancied the folk costumes (our birthdays
coming up). This shop is huge and seamlessly conjoined to
a folk art gallery. Also at ul. Wita Stwosza 55 (B-3).QB2, Pl.
Biskupa Nankiera 5/6/7, tel. (+48) 71 343 59 79, www.
cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun.
WROCAW SOUVENIRS
Large and perfectly placed on the market square, its
no surprise that this is one of the longest-running
and most successful souvenir shops in town. With all
manner of local Wrocaw and Polish souvenirs, including
an impressive collection of amber and other jewellery,
gnome figurines, photo albums, t-shirts, bags, magnets,
mugs, keychains, postcards, paintings and more, theres
even a couch for taking a rest when all those shopping
bags start weighing you down.QA3, Rynek 3, tel.
(+48) 71 344 27 74. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 18:00.
VENA POTTERY (GALERIA VENA)
If you arent familiar
with the universallyloved Bolesawiec style
of Polish ceramic, which
hails from a little town
not far to the west of
Wrocaw, then make sure
you drop into this shop
on the market square and educate yourself. Hand-painted
in traditional folk motifs, Vena produces pottery that not
only looks unique and beautiful, but is also practical for
everyday use. This is one of the best collections weve seen
anywhere and a foolproof gift-giving plan for anyone with
a kitchen.QA3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 344 43 70, www.
vena-ceramika.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
www.globalblue.com
78 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
SHOPPING MALLS
ARKADY WROCAWSKIE
One of Wrocaws
most centrally located
shopping malls, find
Arkady
Wrocawskie
tucked not far behind
the train station. With
110 stores across 30,000
square metres, brand highlights of this upscale retail
centre include Marks & Spencer, Benetton, H&M, New
Yorker, Alma (the countrys upscale grocer) and more.
Other diversions you can seek out are the restaurants
and cafes, Multikino cinema, cushy childrens playpen
and a truly impressive two-storey aquarium. Within
walking distance of most places and easily accessed
by tram, once youre inside Arkady Wrocawskie,
good luck making your way out again.QA5, ul.
Powstacw lskich 2-4, tel. (+48) 71 776 11 22,
www.arkadywroclawskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA DOMINIKASKA
Wrocaws most accessible and well-known retail monolith,
Galeria Dominikaska is a mere five minutes east of the
Rynek, meaning youre likely to cross paths with it by
accident and youre probably going to get sucked in.
Among the 100 shops (including Zara, Pull & Bear, Max
Mara, VAN GRAAF, Media Markt and an iSpot) youll also find
some restaurants (Pizza Hut, Ohh! Sushi & Grill), a beauty
salon (ManiPedi), and we dont even need to tell you what
else because youre already inside, youre on an escalator,
youre making eyes with a mannequin, you want to touch
everything, taste it, try it on. The guide is going back in your
pocket, the wallet is coming out...QC3, Pl. Dominikaski
3, tel. (+48) 71 344 95 17, www.galeria-dominikanska.pl.
Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA HANDLOWA SKY TOWER
You may have noticed Wrocaw has beefed up its skyline,
realising the arrival of its first bona fide skyscraper with
Sky Tower, the sparkling 212m three-tiered behemoth you
see looming over the city just minutes south of the centre.
Comprising a small city in and of itself with residential
apartments, office and retail space, the podium level alone
boasts three floors full of boutique shops, restaurants,
cafes, services and sports facilities. Here youll find over
80 top name brands, over a dozen restaurants and cafes,
a supermarket, fitness centre and spa, Banda Club - the
largest billiards club in the country, a 24-lane bowling alley,
and plenty more. The design is flat gorgeous and features
an incredible interactive wall gallery on the first floor and a
surreal Salvador Dali sculpture outside the front entrance.
Park your vehicle in one of the 1500 spots or take trams 7 or
20, getting off at Wielka.QE6, ul. Powstacw lskich
95, tel. (+48) 71 738 31 11, www.galeria.skytower.pl.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
RENOMA
One of the largest pre-war department stores in Europe,
this magnificent consumer showpiece was added to the
Register of Historical Monuments in 1977 and has now
been restored and modernised for todays retail market.
The unique 1930s facade of ceramic tiles and gilded heads
has been returned to its former glory while inside youll
find todays most cutting-edge brands, plus a third floor
restaurant with fine views of the Old Town. Along with the
original buildings refurbishment, a new modern wing was
added on Plac Czysty. Easily outclassing the citys other
shopping malls and smack in the centre, if it was in our
disposition to call a shopping mall a must-see attraction,
this would fit the bill.QA4, ul. widnicka 40, tel. (+48)
71 772 58 20, www.renoma-wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
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79
Directory
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
Currency exchange offices (Kantor) are easy to find
in Wrocaw, but as with any international destination,
its imperative to check the rates to ensure you arent
getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never
change your money at city entry points, particularly
at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To
help put your mind and your wallet at ease, weve
assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that
wont rip you off, and dont take a commission.
KANTORQE4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel.
(+48) 71 338 53 65. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
KANTORQB3, ul. Oawska 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 10
78. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
KANTOR CENT
QB3, ul. widnicka 3, tel. (+48) 71 372 35 02, www.
centkantor.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun.
24HR PHARMACIES
KATEDRALNA
QD1, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71 322 73 15.
POD LWAMI
QA2, Pl. Jana Pawa II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 24.
24HR SHOPS
DELIKATESYQA3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27.
UNITED KINGDOM
Qul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www.
gov.uk/government/world/poland.
DELIKATESY 24
QA3, ul. w. Mikoaja 72, tel. (+48) 71 794 77 68.
DENTISTS
DELIKATESY REWEX
QA5, ul. Bogusawskiego 69, tel. (+48) 71 367 06 81.
BUSINESS ASSOCIATIONS
BRITISH POLISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QE4, ul. Legnicka 51-53, tel. (+48) 71 733 13 75, www.
bpcc.org.pl.
LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QA4, ul. widnicka 39, tel. (+48) 71 344 78 25, www.
dig.wroc.pl.
THE LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF CRAFT
QA3, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71 344 86 91, www.izba.
wroc.pl.
WESTERN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QA3, ul. Ofiar Owicimskich 41/43, tel. (+48) 71 795
06 56, www.zig.pl.
80 Wrocaw In Your Pocket
EMERGENCY ROOM
4 WOJSKOWY SZPITAL KLINICZNYQul. Weigla 5
(Krzyki), tel. (+48) 261 660 373, www.4wsk.pl.
DOLNOLSKI SZPITAL SPECJALISTYCZNY CENTRUM MEDYCYNY RATUNKOWEJ
QH5, ul. Traugutta 116, tel. (+48) 71 789 02 00, www.
szpital-marciniak.wroclaw.pl.
@InYourPocket
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Directory
INTERNET CAFES
CZATERWKA
QB3, ul. Szewska 75/77, tel. (+48) 609 57 53 34. Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
INTERMAX
QA3, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71 794 05 73, www.
imx.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, 4z/hour.
POST OFFICES
POCZTA POLSKA
QB3, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 38, www.pocztapolska.pl. Open 24hrs.
POCZTA POLSKA
QC3, ul. Krasiskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 81. Open
09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
PRIVATE CLINICS
LUX-MED (LUX-MED CENTRUM MEDYCZNE)
QE4, ul. Legnicka 51/53, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.
luxmed.pl.
MEDICOVER
QE6, Powstacw lskich 7a, tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00,
www.medicover.com.
VITA CLINIC
QB3, ul. Oawska 15, tel. (+48) 71 343 35 56, www.vitawroclaw.com.pl.
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
ROMAN CATHOLIC PARISH OF ST. CHARLES
BOROMEUSZ
Home of the Pastoral Centre for English Speakers, St. Charles
Boromeusz in Fabryczna is essentially the headquarters of
Wrocaws international Catholic community. Englishlanguage masses take place Sundays at 16:00. The parish
also offers confession and priest services in English, Englishlanguage wedding ceremonies, etc. Visit their website for
more information.Qul. Krucza 58 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48)
71 361 52 65, www.pastoralcentre.pl.
RELOCATION COMPANIES
UNIVERSAL EXPRESS RELOCATIONS
QAl. Jaworowa 14/2, tel. (+48) 71 357 17 87, www.uer.
pl.
TRANSLATORS
& INTERPRETERS
EXPRESS
QE5, ul. Pisudskiego 92, tel. (+48) 71 344 76 65, www.
tlumaczy.pl.
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81
Hotels
Chrapek, the little snorer, sleeps it off outside the Patio Hotel. More gnomes on p.63. | Klearchos Kapoutsis/flickr.com/CC BY 2.0
UPMARKET
ART HOTEL
QA2, ul. Kiebanicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 787 74 00, www.
arthotel.pl. 80 rooms (17 singles, 55 doubles, 6 suites,
1apartment). PH6
UFL
K
X hhhh
BEST WESTERN PRIMA
QA2, ul. Kiebanicza 16-19, tel. (+48) 71 782 55 55,
www.bestwestern-prima.pl. 78 rooms (77 singles,
65 doubles, 1 apartment). PH6U
FL
KD
hhhh
DWR POLSKI
QA3, ul. Kiebanicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 372 34 15,
www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. 28 rooms (24 singles,
22doubles, 4apartments). H6K
hhhh
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
F Fitness centre
H Conference facilities
K Restaurant
D Sauna
6 Animal friendly
w Wellness
EUROPEUM
QA3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a, tel. (+48) 71
371 44 00, www.europeum.pl. 36 rooms (36 singles,
33doubles). PHUFKDw hhh
HOTEL JANA PAWA II
QC2, ul. w. Idziego 2, tel. (+48) 71 327 14 00,
www.hotel-jp2.pl. 45 rooms (1 single, 43 doubles,
1apartment). PHULKD hhhh
HP PARK PLAZA
QB1, ul. Drobnera 11-13, tel. (+48) 71 320 84 00,
www.wroclaw.hotelepark.pl. 177 rooms (156 singles,
156doubles, 19suites, 2apartments). PH6UK
Dw hhhh
83
Hotels
MID-RANGE
BUGATTIQul. Kosmonautw 328 (Fabryczna), tel.
(+48) 71 349 35 23, www.hotelbugatti.pl. 20 rooms
(17singles, 17doubles, 3triples). PH6
K hhh
NEW
BOUTIQUE BRAJT HOTELQE4, ul. Pawa
Wodkowica 18, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 81, www.brajt.pl.
8rooms (8singles, 4doubles). P6UX
hhh
CAMPANILE WROCAW STARE MIASTO
QA1, ul. Jagiey 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00, www.
campanile-wroclaw.pl. 110 rooms (109 singles,
109doubles, 1apartment). PH6U
K
hhh
MONOPOL HOTEL
A pleasant stay
in Wrocaws
Old Town
convenient
location
comfortable for
work and relaxation
free wi-
welcome package in each room
TV with Canal+
restaurant serving Polish
and International cuisine
conferences, trainings
and banquets
Standing on the former site of a 14th-century Franciscan church & monastery at ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (A-4),
illustrious banker Wallenberg-Pachaly and architect
Karol Grosser tore down the crumbling ruins in 1890
and built a neo-Baroque hotel and neo-Renaissance
trading house here, officially opening it as the Hotel
Monopol in 1892. The decades that followed saw the
Monopol become the most famous hotel in town with
Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and even Hitler himself
staying here; a special balcony was added to room 113
so that Der Fuhrer could use it to address the crowds
below. In 1948, Pablo Picasso came to town for the
International Congress of Intellectuals in Defence of
Peace and painted Dove of Peace in his room. Zbigniew Cybulski - the Polish James Dean - also shot several famous movie scenes in the hotel.
Closed in 2006 and sold to the Likus Hotel & Restaurants Group, the Monopol was thoroughly renovated
and reopened in 2009. Rooms are immaculately decorated with turn-of-the-century antiques, and the building features two fabulous restaurants (Acquario and
Monopol), as well as two seasonal rooftop terrace bars
(La Terazza and Sky Bar). Once more the most exclusive
and luxurious hotel in town, if you can afford to sleep
in this historic locale youll find that the experience is
worth the money.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
CENTRUM DIKULQA2, ul. Cieszyskiego 17-19, tel.
(+48) 71 796 77 66, www.dikul.pl. 32rooms (11singles,
19doubles, 1suite, 1apartment). PU hhh
DUETQA3, ul. w Mikoaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785 51
00, www.hotelduet.pl. 39rooms (34singles, 34doubles,
5apartments). PH6K hhh
EUROPEJSKI
QB5, ul. Pisudskiego 88, tel. (+48) 71 772 10 00, www.
europejskiwroclaw.pl. 95rooms (19singles, 64doubles,
12apartments). PH6UK hhh
IBIS STYLES WROCAW CENTRUM
QC5/6, ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48
00, www.ibis.com. 133rooms (133singles, 108doubles,
21triples). PH6UL hhh
LOTHUS
QB3, ul. Wita Stwosza 22/23, tel. (+48) 71 341 97 38,
www.lothus.pl. 63 rooms (23 singles, 40 doubles).
H6UK
hhh
NOVOTELQul. Wycigowa 35 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 339
80 51, www.accorhotels.com. 145 rooms (145 singles,
145doubles). PH6UK hhh
PATIOQA3, ul. Kiebanicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71 375 04
00, www.hotelpatio.pl. 50rooms (42singles, 42doubles,
8apartments). H6KX hhh
POLONIA
QA5, ul. Pisudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343 10 21, www.
poloniawroclaw.pl. 107rooms (28singles, 79doubles).
6UK hhh
QUALITY SYSTEM HOTEL WROCAW
QH1, Al. Kromera 16, tel. (+48) 71 364 97 00, www.
quality-hotels.pl. 107 rooms (100 singles, 77 doubles,
7apartments). PH6UKDCw hhh
SOFIA
QB5, ul. Pisudskiego 104 (entrance from ul. Gwarna
23), tel. (+48) 71 372 32 00, www.hotelsofia.pl. 31rooms
(31singles, 31doubles). PH6UKDw hhh
TUMSKI
QC2, Wyspa Sodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 99, www.
hotel-tumski.com.pl. 57rooms (14singles, 38doubles,
3triples, 1apartment). H6UK hhh
WODNIK
QH5, ul. Na Grobli 28, tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67, www.
wodnik-hotel.pl. 18 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles,
2suites). HK hhh
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85
Hotels
BUDGET
AKIRA BED & BREAKFASTQF2, Pl. Strzelecki 28,
tel. (+48) 71 323 08 88, www.hotelakira.pl. 21 rooms
(21singles, 17doubles, 2triples). 6U
B&B HOTEL
QB4, ul. Piotra Skargi 24-28, tel. (+48) 71 324 09 80,
www.hotelbb.pl. 140rooms (140singles, 140doubles,
2triples, 2quads). PH6
UX
hh
BOOGIE HOSTEL DELUXE
QA3, ul. Biaoskrnicza 6, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72, www.
boogiehostel.com. 13 rooms (12 singles, 12 doubles,
1quad). 6
CILANTRO BED & BREAKFAST
QA1, ul. Pomorska 32/26-29, tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82,
www.cilantro.pl. 9rooms (9singles, 9doubles, 3triples).
6L
HOTEL PIAST
QB5, ul. Pisudskiego 98, tel. (+48) 71 343 00 33, www.
piastwroclaw.pl. 92 rooms (80 singles, 74 doubles,
12suites). PH6UK
hh
IBIS BUDGET WROCAW STADION
Qul. Lotnicza 151 (Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84
48, www.ibisbudget.com. 122 rooms (118 singles,
118doubles, 4triples). P6U h
SAVOY
QA5, Pl. Kociuszki 19, tel. (+48) 71 344 30 71, www.
savoy-wroclaw.pl. 26 rooms (20 singles, 17 doubles,
4triples). 6
APARTMENTS
ART APART
QD4, ul. Waloska 7/1, tel. (+48) 667 71 71 71, www.
artapart.pl. 50rooms (50apartments). 6
EXCLUSIVE WORLD APARTMENTS
QB3, ul. Krawiecka 6/4, tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www.
exclusiveapartments.pl. 70rooms (70apartments). P
LEOAPART
QB2, ul. Wizienna 21, tel. (+48) 71 330 71 21, www.
leoapart.com. 55rooms (55apartments). 6LK
LUCKY APARTMENTS
QB3, ul. Wita Stwosza 15, tel. (+48) 730 89 99 88, www.
luckyapart.pl/en. 20rooms (20apartments). 6
SILVER APARTMENTS
QB3, ul. Krawiecka 3, tel. (+48) 698 68 83 44, www.
silverapartments.pl. 33rooms (33apartments). P6
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Hotels
HOSTELS
ABSYNT HOSTEL
QA3, ul. w. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 71 798 96 36,
www.absynthostel.pl. 132rooms (2singles, 17doubles,
6triples, 6quads, 93apartments, 34dorm beds, 1fiveperson room, 4six-person room, 3eight-person room).
BOOGIE HOSTELQE4, ul. Ruska 34, tel. (+48) 71 342
44 72, www.boogiehostel.com. 20 rooms (19 singles,
19doubles, 19triples, 2quads, 8dorm beds). P6
CINNAMONQB4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67,
tel. (+48) 71 344 58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com.
10rooms (3singles, 3doubles, 44dorm beds). 6
GRAMPAS HOSTELQF3, Pl. w. Macieja 2/1, tel.
(+48) 71 321 92 40, www.grampahostel.com. 9 rooms
(2singles, 2doubles, 48dorm beds).
HOSTEL BEMMAQF4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 15,
tel. (+48) 531 53 15 98, www.hostelbemma.pl. 17rooms
(11singles, 11doubles, 25dorm beds). 6
HOSTEL KOMBINATQA4, ul. widnicka 24/4, tel.
(+48) 71 344 66 77, www.hostelkombinat.pl. 5 rooms
(2doubles, 1triple, 13dorm beds).
www.terminalhotel.pl
AIRPORT HOTEL
TERMINAL HOTEL
Qul. Rakietowa 33 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 773
55 75, www.terminalhotel.pl. 52rooms (52singles,
52doubles). PH6UK hhh
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87
Street Register
Al. Armii Krajowej
F-7, H-7
Al. Boya-eleskiego
H-1
Al. Kochanowskiego
I-3
Al. Kromera
H-1
Al. Matejki
G-3
Al. Sowackiego
G-4
Anny, w.
C-2
Antoniego, w.
A-3
Arrasowa B-4
Bauckiego A-5
Bauckiego
F-5
Barlickiego
G-2
Barycka D-1
Barycka G-3
Baudouina de Courtenay
I-2
Bema
G-3
Bema, gen.
C-1
Bema, gen., pl.
C-1
Benedyktyska
F-3, G-3
Berenta
H-1
Bernardyska C-3
Bernardyska
G-4
Biaoskrnicza A-2
Biskupia B-3
Biskupia
F-4
Bogusawskiego A/B-5
Bogusawskiego
F-5
Bohaterw Getta, pl.
A-3
Bolesawa Chrobrego
F-2/3
Borna, pl.
A-1
Borowska A-6
Borowska
F-6
Boego Ciaa
A/B-4
Boego Ciaa
F-5
Braniborska
E-4
Brodatego Henryka
B-1
Browarna
G-1/2
Brzeska D-6
Brzeska
H-6
Bulwar Dunikowskiego
G-4
Bulwar Wostowica
G-4
Ciepa F-6/7
Cieszkowskiego
I-2
Cieszyskiego A-2
Cieszyskiego F-4
Curie-Skodowskiej
H-4, I-4
Cybulskiego A/B-1/2
Cybulskiego
F-3
Czerwonego Krzya
I-3
Czesawa, b.
B-3
Czysta B-4/5
Czysta
F-5
Czysty, pl.
A/B-4
Dbrowskiego
G-5
Dbrowskiego, gen.
C-5
Daszyskiego
G-2, H-2/3
Dawida
G-6
Dbickiego F-2
Duga
E-3
Dmowskiego
E-3
Dobra E-4
Dobrzyska D-4
Dobrzyska G-4
Dolna
G-2
Dominikaski, Pl.
C-3
Doroty, w.
A-4
Drobnera B/C-1
Drobnera
F-3, G-3
Druckiego-Lubeckiego A-4
Druckiego-Lubeckiego F-5
Drukarska
E-6/7
Drzewna
E-4
Dubois A/B-1
Dubois F-3
Dworcowa B/C-5
Dworcowa
G-5
Dyrekcyjna B/C-6
Dyrekcyjna F-6
Elbiety, w.
A-3
Flisacka
E-2, F-2
Franciszkaska A-4
Franciszkaski, pl.
A-4
Frycza-Modrzewskiego C-2/3
Gajowa C-6
Garbary A/B-2
Garncarska C-3
Gdaska
H-3
Gepperta A-3
Gliniana
F-6, G-6
Gnienieska E-2
Grnickiego
H-3
Grabiszyska E-5
Grodzka B/C-2
Grodzka
F-4, G-4
Grunwaldzka
H-3/4, I-3
Grunwaldzki, pl
C/D-3/4
Gwarna B-5
Gwarna F-5
Hauke-Bosaka
G-5
Haukego-Bosaka C/D-4
Henryka Brodatego
F-3
Henryka Pobonego
F-3
Henrykowska
G-7
Hercena C-5
Hercena G-5
Hlonda, kard.
D-2
Hoene-Wroskiego H-4
Hubska C-6
Hubska
G-6/7
Chemiczna H-3
Chudoby
H-6
Idziego, w.
C/D-2
Igielna A/B-3
Igielna F-4
Inowrocawska E-3
Jadwigi, w.
C-2
Jagiey
E-3
Janickiego C-3
Janickiego
G-4
Janiszewskiego
H-4
Jatki A-2
Jczmienna
E-5
Jednoci Narodowej
B/C-1
Jednoci Narodowej F-3, G-2/3, H-2
Joannitw B-6
Joannitw
F-6
Jodowa B-3
Joliot-Curie D-2/3
Joliot-Curie
G-4, H-4
Jzefa, w.
D-2
Kamienna
E-7, G-7
Kanonia C/D-2
Kapistrana, w.
C-3
Kapitulna D-2
Kard. Hlonda
G-3
Kard. Wyszyskiego G-3/4, H-2/3
Kaszubska F-3
Katarzyny, w.
B/C-3
Katedralna C/D-2
Katedralna
G-3/4
Katedralny, pl.
D-2
Kazimierza Jagielloczyka
F-3
Kazimierza Wielkiego
A/B-3/4
Kazimierza Wielkiego
F-4
Kaznodziejska B-3
Kiebanicza A-2/3
Kiebanicza
F-4
Kiliskiego C-1
Kiliskiego
G-3
Kleczkowska
F-2
Kluczborska
G-2
Kniaziewicza C-5
Kniaziewicza
G-5
Kolejowa
E-5
Kotaja B-4/5
Komandorska A-5/6
Komandorska F-6
Kominka, kard.
D-2
Komuny Paryskiej
C/D-5/6
Komuny Paryskiej
G-5
Konstytucji 3 Maja, pl.
B/C-5/6
Kocielny, pl.
C-2
Kociuszki A-5
Kociuszki
F-5, G-5
Kociuszki, pl.
A/D-4/6
Kotlarska A/B-3
Kotlarska
F-4
Kraiskiego C-2/3
Krakowska
H-6, I-7
Krasiskiego B/C-3/4
Krasiskiego
G-5
Kraszewskiego F-2
Krawiecka B-3
Krta
F-2, G-2
Krowia B-3
Krowia F-4
Krupnicza A-3
Krupnicza
F-4
Krzysztofa, w., pl.
B-4
Krzywa
H-3
Ksicia Witolda
F-3
Kurkowa A-1
Kurkowa
F-3
Kurzy Targ
B-3
Kurzy Targ
F-4
Kunicza B-2/3
Kunicza F-4
aciarska B-2/3
aciarska
F-4
adna
H-3/4
ka Mazurska
H-1, I-1
kowa A-4
kowa
F-5
azienna A-2
azienna
F-4
Ledochowskiego D-1
Legnicka
E-4
Lelewela
E-5
Leszczyskiego A-3
Lniana
G-7
dzka
F-6/7
okietka Wadysawa
B-1
Lubuska
E-5
ukasiskiego D-5
ukasiskiego
G-5
Macieja, w., pl.
B-1
Maachowskiego C-6
Maachowskiego
F-5, G-5
Malarska A-2
Marcina, w.
C-2
Marii Magdaleny, w.
B-3
Marsz. Pisudskiego
E-5, F-5
Matejki, al.
D-1
Mazowiecka D-3/4
Mazowiecka
G-4/5
Mennicza A/B-4
Mennicza
F-5
Miernicza D-5
Miernicza
G-5
Mieszczaska A-1
Mieszczaska
E-3, F-3
Mieszka I
C-1/2
Mieszka I
G-3
Michalczyka
E-3
Mikoaja, w.
A-3
Mia
H-3/4
Minkowskiego
H-3/4
Moda
H-6
Modych Technikw
E-3
Modrzejewskiej A-4
Modrzejewskiej
F-5
Muzealna A-4
Muzealna
F-5
Myliwska
F-3
Na Grobli
H-5
Na Niskich kach
H-6, I-6
Na Szacach
C-1
Na Szacach
G-3
Nabyciska
E-4
Najwitszej Marii Panny
C-2
Namysowska G-2
Nankiera, bp., pl.
B/C-2
Nasypowa A-5
Nasypowa
E-5, F-5
Nauczycielska
H-4
Nehringa H-4
Niemcewicza C-1
Niemcewicza
G-2/3
Nobla F-3
Norwida
H-4
Nowa B/C-4
Nowa
F-5, G-5
Nowowiejska H-3
Nowy wiat
A-2
Nowy wiat
F-4
Nowy Targ, pl.
B-3
Noownicza B-2/3
Noownicza F-4
Nyska
G-7, H-7
Odrzaska A-2/3
Odrzaska
F-4
Ofiar Owicimskich
A/B-3
Ofiar Owicimskich
F-4
Oawska
B-3, C-4
Oawska
F-4, G-4
Obiska
G-2/3
Olenicka
G-3
Orzeszkowej
H-2/3
Otmuchowska
G-7, I-7
Otwarta A-1
Otwarta F-3
Owsiana
E-5
Pabianicka
F-6
Pasterska
E-1, G-1, H-2
Pauliska A/B-1
Pauliska
F-3
Pawa Wodkowica
E-4
Pawowa
E-5
Pestalozziego
G-3
Piaskowa C-2/3
Piaskowa
G-4
Piastowska
H-3/4
Pisudskiego, marsz.
A/B-5
Piwna
H-4
Plac Bema
G-3
Plac Borna
F-3
Plac Dominikaski
G-4
Plac Franciszkaski
F-4
Plac Grunwaldzki
H-4, I-4
Plac J. Szeli
E-5
Plac Jana Pawa II
E-4
Plac Katedralny
G-4
Plac Legionw
E-5
Plac Nowy Targ
B-3
Plac Orlt Lwowskich
E-4
Plac Polski
G-4
Plac Powstacw lskich
E-7
Plac Powstacw Warszawy G-4
Plac Powstacw Wielkopolskich
F-2
Plac Rozjezdny
E-5
Plac Sowiaski
G-2
Plac Solny
F-4
Plac Strzelecki
F-2
Plac w. Krzysztofa
F-4
Plac w. Mikoaja
E-3
Plac Teatralny
F-5
Plac Uniwersytecki
F-4
Plac Westerplatte
H-3
Plac Wrblewskiego
G-5
Plac Zgody
H-5
Podwale A/C-3/5
Podwale
E-4, F-3, G-4/5
Podwrcowa
F-3
Polaka
H-4
Polski, pl.
C-3
Pomorska A-1
Pomorska F-3
Poniatowskiego
G-3
Poniatowskiego, ks.
C-1
Portowa
E-2
Powstacw lskich
A-5/6
Powstacw lskich
E-6
Powstacw Warszawy pl.
D-3
Prdzyskiego
G-5, H-5
Prdzyskiego, Igancego, gen.
D-5/6
Pretficza E-6/7
Probusa
F-3
Probusa Henryka
B-1
Prosta
E-5
Prusa C/D-1
Prusa
G-3, H-3
Przejcie Garncarskie
A/B-3
Przejcie elanicze
A/B-3
Przeskok D-1
Przeskok
G-3
Ptasia F-3
Psie Budy
A-3
Psie Budy
F-4
Pszenna
E-5
Puaskiego
G-5/6
Puaskiego, gen.
C/D-4/6
Purkyniego, Jana Ewangelisty
C/D-3
Rakowiecka I-5/6
Reja
H-3/4
Rejtana B-5
Rejtana
F-5
Reymonta
F-2
Roentgena
H-3/4
Roosevelta
G-2/3
Rostafiskiego B-1
Rostafiskiego F-3
Rozbrat
H-3
Ruska A-3
Ruska
E-4, F-4
Rybacka
E-4
Rydygiera B-1
Rydygiera F-3
Rychtalska G-2
Rynek A-3
Rynek
F-4
Rzenicza A-2/3
Rzenicza
F-4
Sdowa
E-5
Siemieskiego
F-2
Sienkiewicza C/D-1
Sienkiewicza
G-3, H-3, I-3
Sikorskiego
E-4
Skargi
F-5
Skargi, ks.
B-4
Skadowa A-1
Skadowa
F-3
Skwerowa A-6
lna A/B-6
Sodowa C-2
Sowackiego, al.
C/D-3
Sowackiego, wybrzee
D-3/4
Sowiaska
G-2
Smoluchowskiego
H-4, I-4
niadeckich
I-3
Solny, pl.
A-3
Sopocka
H-3, I-3
Srocza
F-3
rodkowa E-4
rutowa B-1
Staromyska C-2
Stawowa B-5
Stranicza A/B-2
Stysia
E-5
Sucha B/C-6
Sucha
F-6, G-6
Sudecka
E-7
Sukiennice A/B-3
w. Anny
F-3, G-3
w. Antoniego
E-4, F-4
w. Doroty
F-4/5
w. Ducha
C-2
w. Ducha
G-4
w. Jadwigi
G-3/4
w. Jzefa
G-4
w. Katarzyny
F-4, G-4
w. Mikoaja
E-4, F-4
w. Wincentego
F-2/3
widnicka A/B-3/5
widnicka
F-5
wiebodzka
E-5
witokrzyska C/D-1/2
witokrzyska
G-3
wistackiego D-6
wistackiego
G-5/6
Swobodna A-6
Swobodna
E-5, F-5/6
Szajnochy A-3
Szajnochy
F-4
Szarzyskiego H-3
Szczepiska
E-4
Szczytnicka D-2
Szczytnicka
G-4, H-4
Szewska B-2/4
Teatralna B-4
Teatralna
F-5
Teatralny, pl.
A-4
Traugutta C/D-4/5
Traugutta
G-5, H-5
Trzebnicka B-1
Trzebnicka
F-2/3
Ukryta H-3
Uniwersytecka B-2
Uniwersytecka F-4
Uniwersytecki, pl.
B-2
Ustronie
G-2
Walecznych
H-3
Waloska D-4
Waloska
G-5
Warzywnicza C-1
Wska A/B-1
Wesoa
F-6
Widok B-4
Widok
F-4/5
Wickowskiego
H-5/6
Wieczysta
F-7, G-7
Wierzbowa B-4
Wierzbowa
F-4/5
Wizienna B-2
Wizienna F-4
Wita Stwosza
B-3
Wita Stwosza
F-4
Wita, w.
B-3
Witolda, ks.
A/B-2
Wadysawa okietka
F-3
Wodkowica E-4
Wodna B-2
Wolnoci, pl.
A-4
Worcella C/D-4/5
Worcella
G-5
Wrblewskiego, pl.
D-4
Wrocawczyka
H-4
Wybrzee ConradaKorzeniowskiego F-2
Wybrzee Sowackiego
H-4/5
Wybrzee Wyspiaskiego
H-4
Wygodna
G-2
Wyspa C-2
Wyszyskiego, kard.
D-1/2
Zachodnia
E-3
Zakadowa
F-2, G-2
Zaolziaska A-6
Zaolziaska
F-6
Zapolskiej A-5
Zapolskiej
F-5
Zaporoska
E-5/6
Zauek Wolski
A-5
eromskiego D-1
Zgodna H-5
Zieliskiego
E-5/6
iki
E-3
Zyndrama z Maszkowic
A-1/2
Zyndrama z Maszkowic E-3, F-3
ytnia
E-5
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Index
Absynt Hostel
87
Ahimsa Restaurant & Club 40
Akira Bed & Breakfast
86
Akropolis 25
Ambasada 49
Amorinio 42
Antyki przy Szewskiej
75
Aquarelle 25
Archaeology Museum
58
Archdiocese Museum
66
Architecture Museum
58
Arkady Wrocawskie
78
Art Apart
86
Art Cafe Kalambur
50
Art Hotel
82
Barka Tumska
27, 41
Baszta 40
B&B Hotel
86
Bernard 27
Best Western Prima
82
Bezsenno 50
Bierhalle 48
Blackboard Pub
45
BLT & Flatbreads
23
Bobolandia 72
Boogie Hostel
87
Boogie Hostel Deluxe
86
Boutique Brajt Hotel
84
Boutique Brajt Restaurant 36
Brasserie 27
27
Breadway 41
Browar Zoty Pies
48
Bugatti 84
Cafeterie Chic
66
Campanile Wrocaw Stare
Miasto 84
Capri Ristorante Pizzeria 33
Cathedral of St. John the
Baptist 66
Centennial Hall & Discovery
Centre 68
Centennial Hall Parking
69
Central Cafe
41, 42
Centrum Dikul
85
Cepelia 78
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 73
Charlotte Chleb i Wino
42
Chatka Przy Jatkach
36
Church of Saints Peter & Paul
65
Church of the Holy Cross / St.
Bartholomew's 65
Cilantro Bed & Breakfast 86
Cinnamon 87
CI Cafe
71
Cocofli 42
Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky
45
Cukier Lukier
77
Czary Mary
27
Czekoladziarnia Wrocaw 43
Darea Sushi Korean - Japanese
Restaurant 34
De' Molika
76
Dobra Karma
28
Domwka 50
Duet 85
Dwr Polski
36, 82
Empik Megastore
76
Eter Club
46
Ethnographic Museum
58
Europejski 85
Europeum 83
Exclusive World Apartments 86
Exit Room
73
Food Art Gallery
28
Free Walking Tour Foundation
55
Fu-Ku 77
Galeria Dominikaska
78
Galeria Handlowa Sky Tower
78
Galeria Schubert
74
Galicja 36
Giselle French Bakery Cafe 41
Grampa's Hostel
87
Hala Targowa
76
Hortyca 39
Hostel Bemma
87
Hostel Kombinat
87
Hotel Jana Pawa II
83
Hotel Piast
86
HP Park Plaza
83
Ibis Budget Wrocaw Stadion
86
Ibis Styles Wrocaw Centrum 85
Iglica 68
Infowro Jatki Wrocaw
57
Inny wiat w Piwniczce
Gotyckiej 75
Jacek i Agatka
40
JaDka 36
Karczma Lwowska
37
Knajpa Kres
39
Konspira
37, 59
Kontynuacja 45
KRVN 46
Kwatera Gwna
73
La Dolce Vita
34
La Maddalena
35
La Scala
34
Las/Zupa 26
Le Bistrot Parisien
24
Le Chef
28
Leoapart 86
Lothus 85
Lower Silesian Cultural
Information Centre
57
Lucky Apartments
86
Lwia Brama
28, 66
Machina Organika
40
Malawi Night Club
51
Maana Cafe
50
Marina 29
Marynka Piwo i Aperitivo 46
Masala Indian Restaurant 25
Mercure Wrocaw Centrum 83
Military Museum
59
Mi 40
Mleczarnia
46, 87
Moaburger 23
MOHER Vintage & Design 77
Monopol 82
Monopol Spa & Wellness
Centre 73
Monument to the Victims of
the Katy Massacre
57
Moon Hostel
87
Nadodrze Cafe Resto Bar 29
Nagi Kamerdyner
49
National Museum
59
Natural History Museum 66
Neon Side Club & Gallery 46
New Jewish Cemetery
70
Niebo Cafe
47
Nietota 51
Novotel 85
Od Koochni
29
OK Wine Bar
29
Old Havana Cigar Shop &
Lounge 74
Old Jewish Cemetery
71
Padbar 47
PANATO Caf
43
Papa Bar
47
Park Hotel Diament Wrocaw
83
Partisan Hill
61
Street art abounds abound in Wrocaw, including this mural on ul. Pomorska (A-2) by Erica Il Cane. For
more turn to p.61.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Index
Patelnia 26
Patio 85
Pergola Ice Rink
69, 72
Pergola Restaurant
69
Phathathai 39
Pierogarnia Stary Myn
37
Piwnica widnicka
38
PiwoCzas 74
Plac Targowy wiebodzki 76
Platinum Palace
82
Pochlebna 30
Pod Fredr
38
Pod Latarniami
48
Pod Papugami
30, 48
Polish Poster Gallery
75
Polonia 85
Post & Communications
Museum 59
Powoli 41
PRIV 51
Przysta 30
PURO Hotel Wrocaw
83
Quality System Hotel Wrocaw
85
Qubus Hotel Wrocaw
83
Racawice Panorama
60
Radisson Blu
82
Ragtime 46
Renoma 79
Restauracja Acquario
32
Restauracja Europejska
32
Restauracja Monopol
38
Restauracja Patio
32
Rodeo Grill Steak House 23
Sarah 34
Savoy 86
Scandic Wrocaw
83
Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej
38, 49
Sezam 72
Shopiq 76
Silver Apartments
86
SkyBowling 72
Sky Tower
57
SleepWalker Boutique Suites
83
Sodkie Czary Mary
77
Soczewka 24
Sofia 85
Sofitel Wrocaw Old Town 82
Spi Brewery
48
Stare Jatki
61
Stary Klasztor
32
St. Dorothy's
87
Steinhaus 35
St. Elizabeth's Church
56
St. Giles Church
66
St. Martin's Church
65
FEATURES INDEX
2016 Capital of Culture
6
Breakfast 41
Breweries 48
Currency Exchange
80
Decoding the Menu
23
Facts & Figures
12
Hot Beer?
43
Konspira 59
Language Smarts
13
Live Music
46
Market Square
55
Market Values
12
Milk Bars
40
Monopol Hotel
84
Neon Wrocaw
62
Pasa Niepolda
50
Polish Food
36
Polish Snacks & Shots
49
Polish Vodka
75
Quick Eats
26
Racawice Panorama
60
Sky Tower
57
Street Art
61
The Lamplighter
65
Wait, Where Am I?
53
Wrocaw contemporary museum
58
Wrocaw Historical Timeline
15
Wrocaw IYP Online
31
Wroclaw University
56
January - April 2016
91
street mural
water equipment rental
marina
Jewish cemetery
view point