Vigan, Ilocos Sur, a well-preserved Spanish colonial town

By Ramon T. Ayco February 2009

(First publish in the Travel Section of Pinoy Reporter, February 2009 issue.)

I have been to Ilocos Sur twice. The first one was just a passing-by. I attended a conference then held in Cagayan province when Luzon was struck by a strong earthquake on 16 July 1990 that killed an estimated 1,621 people including those trapped in the collapsed Hyatt Hotel in Baguio City. Dalton Pass in Nueva Vizcaya was also destroyed by the earthquake and temporarily closed for vehicles. So we travelled back to Manila via Ilocos provinces. We made a stopped-over in Vigan and grabbed an opportunity for a quick tour before checking-in in a hotel. The second time I went to Ilocos Region was a real tour (a 5-day field trip with company vehicles) as a part of staff development activities of the institution I am working with. We first went to Ilocos Norte then to Ilocos Sur. The two provinces are now in the list of the Department of Tourisms top tourist destinations. As a local tourist, we really had plenty of times roaming around at that moment. The first amazing tourist spot in Ilocos Sur is the well-preserved Spanish colonial town in its provincial capital, Vigan.

There, we experienced a leisurely walk and a kalesa tour around this Mestizo District (now called Vigan Heritage Village), with its narrow cobbled-stone streets lined by well-preserved 180 massive Spanish ancestral houses. The streets lead you to two beautiful plazas: Burgos and Salcedo. We also experienced being guests into some of centuries-old structures converted into restaurants and hotels where the Spanish meztisos lived and entertained guests in expansive dining and living rooms on the second floors, and conducted business on their ground-floors that are big enough to fit one or two calezas (horse-drawn carriages).

The author making a leisurely walk at the streets of Vigan Heritage Village.

Inside Fr. Jose Burgos Residence. The background at the back is a replica of a Spanish Galleon Ship.

We have watched a rich collection of historical and religious artifacts, archaelogical and ethnographic treasures, antique furniture in its heritage museums. We have also visited the Vigan Cathedral (which is the seat of the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia, and where the remains of the Ilocano poet Leona Florentino is interred); the residence of Father Jose Burgos, which is open to the public; the Syquia Mansion, which is the Vigan residence of former President Elpidio Quirino; and the Crisologos ancestral home. Vigan also has hotels built in the "bahay na bato" ("stone house") style. Don Juan de Salcedo, the Spanish explorer who conquered Vigan in 1572, modeled the city after his own hometown in Spain. He built Vigan with a central plaza surrounded by several buildings such as a school, municipal hall, and most importantly a church. This pattern became a model for other Spanish settlements in the Philippines. Today Vigan remains as the only intact Spanish village in the Philippines. In 1999, Vigan joined the ranks of the Great Pyramids of Egypt and the Great Wall of China. It was inscribed in the UNESCO's world heritage list, and was recognized as "the best preserved example of a planned Spanish colonial town in Asia." "Its architecture reflects the fusion of cultural elements from the Philippines, from China and Europe to create a unique culture and townscape without parallel anywhere in North and Southeast Asia." Beyond Vigan, Ilocos Sur offers a long list of fascinating sites.

One of these is the 80 hectares Baluarte Zoo of former Gov. Chavit Singson, just 10 minute drive from Vigan. Entrance is free in Baluarte. There, we have seen their tigers named Tom, Dick and Harry, the friendly orangutans named Ruffo and Ruffa, the towering ostriches and rare bird species, large lizards (bayawak), other pets, and their garden of butterflies. We also enjoyed roaming around the zoo through a horse-drawn carriage for free which they call the palomino ride. We have visited their multi level house on a hilltop and have seen the fantastic view of Vigan City that stretches all the way to the South China Sea. Other sites, some of which we have also visited, includes: centuries-old churches (most notably Santa Maria Church, used as a fortress during the 1896 Philippine Revolution and is inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list; and the Sinait Church which houses the miraculous Statue of the Black Nazarene); other national shrines and museums; picturesque rivers and waterfalls which include the Banaoang River in Bantay (an extension of the Abra River), Pinsal Falls in Santa Maria, and Pikkang Falls in San Juan; white-sand beaches which include those in Cabangtalan (in Sinait, also known as Imelda's Cove), Pug-os (in Cabugao); and the towns of Santa, Santa Maria, Santiago, San Esteban, and Candon. In our tour, we also witnessed the ancient crafts of making burnay (unglazed earthen jars) and other pottery products, abel-weaving, and damili (terracotta) industries. As a matter of fact, Im still keeping the products I purchased then as souvenirs. -o0o-

Authors daughter, Ayan Ayco (middle), watching Vigan burnay (pot) making.