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DID YOU KNOW?
Kenya is named after Mount Kenya, a significant landmark and second to Kilimanjaro among Africas highest mountain peaks

Friday, 2 September 2011 PAGE 23

DID YOU KNOW?

The Swahili name for Mombasa is Kisiwa Cha Mvita (Mvita for short) which means Island of War due to many changes in its ownership ,

The port city is inhabited by richly diverse communities

Mombasa the magnificent

Scott Smith MOMBASA has always been a beacon for leisure seekers, with its white, sandy beaches, warm soupy sea and constant steamy sunshine. Its the largest port in East Africa, serving as it does Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi and the eastern Democratic Republic of Congo. It has an ancient but sparsely recorded history. Arab merchants have been trading in and populating these shores for two millennia and you can see the clear traces of this influence on the architecture and in the finely hewn features of the friendly locals. Kenya is today even more cosmopolitan. Enterprise and the lure of adventure brought and still beckon people from all over the region; a keen ear on any street corner will detect familiar snippets of Swahili, Arabic and English and will be beguiled by the eclectic chatter of many unknown tongues. The dominance and influence of Arab traders began to wane when the Portuguese settled en masse after the arrival of Vasco De Gama in 1498 and the muezzin made way for the mantilla. Portugal would rule Mombasa for 200 years before the Omani Arabs reclaimed the prize, until they were in turn dislodged by the citys final foreign rulers, the British, in 1895. There has now been almost half a century of independent rule and the nation that Jomo Kenyatta formed has been good to this Indian Ocean jewel. The city has thrived and is now utterly African and uniquely variegated. The Ethiopian, the colonial, the Arab and the ethnic all converge in the styling of the many modern and blissfully air-conditioned hotels that populate modern Mombasa and border the old town. Mombasas Old City is inhabited by richly diverse contemporary communities, including Africans, Arabs, Portuguese, Asians and British all of whom have co-existed, for the most part peacefully, for several hundred years. This mix of cultures, ideas, politics and religions has created an atmosphere that just cannot be found anywhere else. A must-see assortment of moderately well-maintained historical buildings dating from the 18th century combines all of these influences in a splendidly Mombasan manner. The fascinating and skilfully executed wooden carvings found on doors and awnings are, alone, worthy of close inspection. Despite the long history of the town, the majority of the homes in the quarter are modelled on Swahili designs and are in fact no older than 100 years, which together conspire to make the sense of continuity and timelessness all the more intriguing. It is considered safe to amble off the beaten tourist track to see what the locals have to offer their own. Bargains are to be found, for sure, but more precious is the experience of this part of Mombasa itself. Short and winding alleys are the norm and typical of the days before grid town planning it is around corners like these that one finds spice and fabric shops tucked away, frequented mainly by locals and stuffed with exotic delights. When you take a turn down another alley the scene can switch altogether the businesses change, the architecture swaps centuries and idioms, the garb reworks itself and its religion and the vitality of the street notches up or down. As you venture on the outskirts of the old city and walk on the paths next to the sea you will undoubtedly be drawn to the brown clay walls of the historic Fort Jesus towering above the town in a defensive gesture. The fort was declared a national monument in 1958 and is built in the shape of a man when viewed from the sky. It is probably Mombasas biggest tourist attraction and houses a museum not to be missed. A Portuguese stronghold, it was built in 1593 to fend off the Turks and local rebels and was, ironically for Christians, only rechristened Fort Jesus after Shaikh Isa Bin Tarif Al Bin Ali Al Utbi conquered it in 1837. Between 1631 and 1875, the fort changed hands a total of nine times, such was the colonial competition to wrest control. The fort is one of the worlds finest surviving examples of Portuguese military architecture and its generously proportioned buttresses and old world solidity has been made magical by the merciless decay that the coastal climate has wrought. If you find a quiet corner and lean against its stone walls it is easy to imagine the milling throngs that made up the booming slave trade, or the vibrant souks (market stalls) that used to surround it; or you may hear the ghostly wail of an ancient muezzin calling the faithful out for long gone noontime prayers. It is on drives like this that you see that Kenya is not as underRELAXING: A trip in a dhow cant be missed. a photographic icon in the same league. There are many resorts just outside the city and ours is the Sarova Whitesands Beach Resort. It is 15ha of perfectly landscaped palm tree-shaded postcard paradise and lounges on one of East Africas most stunning white sand beaches. The resort has all amenities necessary and just along the boardwalk and down the wooden steps from our room is a beach bordered with what at low tide offers a kilometre of anklesplashing walking straight out to sea. As we ambled along we came across sandy shoals and amazing sea creatures darting here and there like quick silver at our feet. Where the water becomes deeper the sailing boats are moored, waiting to wing anyone to a prime snorkelling spot. For us this was not strictly necessary as Sarova butts right up against the protected Mombasa Marine Park, but we climbed in anyway and the sailors familiarised us with the lay of the land. A cooling trip in a dhow (boat) is a relaxing adventure to be embarked on in its own right and one to be repeated. Snorkelling in Mombasa Marine Park is a free and unforgettable experience, not least because the colourful tropical fish are unafraid of humans to the point of tameness and will actively come to you in the hope of being fed. A simple slice of bread will make you extremely popular and the fish will nibble on all parts of your body. Established in 1986, the park comprises 10km of unspoilt lagoon, back reef and reef crest coral habitats. The water temperature hovers at about 28C making for hours of uninterrupted swimming pleasure. The visibility in the lagoon is excellent and the depth is perfect in many places for the novice. Surprised by the ease and the quiet confidence we found everywhere, we were lulled into a pleasant African stupor and fell in with the pace of the least active creatures basking on Mombasas ancient walls and baking rocks. Whether drifting through the unspoilt glittering turquoise of the Indian Ocean or rubbing shoulders with Kenyas bright people in their kangas and kikois, Mombasa delivers time out of mind without the fuss. An upbeat but far from frantic locale with which you can expect to fall in love, as we did. n The writer flew with Kenya Airways and was accommodated by Sarova Hotels

COLONIAL PAST: Portuguese Fort Jesus.

DESTRESSING: Locals and tourists can relax with a splendid view of the Mombasa harbour.

HISTORIC: The Mombasa tusks.

BUSY: Locals on a Mombasa street.

Y: The Sarova LUXURY STA . beach resort Whitesands

d s walk aroun AIRY: Tourist r. the hotel foye

inside

LIFE: The peo and friendly.

ple are warm

developed as one imagines. Kenya is the richest country in the region, and Mombasa is its second-richest city, and the people are hopeful. There are opportunities here, as can be witnessed from the glimpses of

luxury spied behind high walls and from flashes of manicured lawns and cool opulent caverns that wink at you through your car window as you trundle down incongruously pot-holed streets. Leaving the city, you drive

between the historic Mombasa Tusks, which were built to commemorate the visit of Queen Elizabeth II in 1952. They mark the entrance to the heart of the town and, although obviously not made of ivory, they represent the

precious commodity that once loomed so large over the economy. These tusks are, for better or for worse, Mombasas defining symbol; it is its own scaleappropriate African Eiffel Tower or Statue of Liberty and offers

AS LAURA BAnkS steps aboard the Premier Classe luxury train, she finds its true: the more things change, the more they stay the same. Give it back! my older brother demands from across the train compartment. No! Im warning you. This is your last chance, he snarls, knuckles white with anger. Oh boy, hes not kidding either his eyes are fierce. I dont want to square off against him apart from being a boy, hes a whole year-and-a-bit older than me. Like a cornered creature I pummel my puny six-year-old fists against the wall that separates our train compartment from mom and dads. Maaaaaaaa! I bellow, scared witless. Just then he lurches for me. Tufts of hair. Squeals. Tears. The compartment door crashes open. Whats going on in here? barks mom. Henry

Train travails with my boet

CLASSY: Train travel evokes yesteryear memories of sibling squabbles and soggy padkos. No more flasks of lukewarm tea. Now its good, hot coffee. TICKETY-TICK: Welcome aboard, madam. scoots away from me, like a scalded cat. A withering stare. Behave yourselves now, or Ill wallop the both of you. Theres still another 20 hours to Cape Town. Oh boy, I exhale, this is going be a loong trip. Flash forward 24 years and my brother Henry and I are back on the train. Now we settle our differences like the adults we are. Hes on his side of the compartment and Im on mine. Its just like old times. But instead of passing a plastic flask of sweet, lukewarm Five Roses between us, were cradling dainty porcelain cups of good coffee. And, in contrast to soggy egg mayo sarmies sealed in tinfoil, tonight we feast like royalty on a five-course dinner on real porcelain crockery and real silver cutlery. Here we are, finally, all grown-up. Another distinct difference is were not on that asthmatic old cage that used to rattle and jolt through the combustible Karoo on our annual pilgrimage to the coast. Thats right, Shosholoza Meyl has shaken off its rust and slipped into its royal purple livery ladies and gents, I introduce the upmarket Premier Classe. We chug out of Joburgs Park

The Durban Stylish Weekend costs R3 250 a person sharing, and children aged 2-9, R1 999). Included is a nights stay at the fourstar Balmoral Hotel, and all meals aboard the train. n JB Train Tours run trips to all over the country, including PE, CT and Namibia, among other places. More info: 011 913 2442 or www.jbtours.co.za
n

Station on a Friday after work, with the knowledge that well be back again at sparrows on Monday. Most of all though, Im thrilled about being on board the Premier

Classe. Sure, I adore stickyaired Durban, which is also pregnant with childhood holiday memories, but theres no more satisfying mode of travel than a rail safari. Outside, the stars slide past, low and bright, while you are lulled to sleep by the soporific tickety-tick of the wheels skirting the undulating hills. Suppertime. We tuck into cream of wild spinach (morogo) and potato soup, followed by grilled Kingklip with herb and butter sauce, and are instantly nudged deeper into our reverie. Next, its roasted sirloin with horseradish sauce and lyonnaise potatoes, malva pudding, and finally an excellent cheese board with sticky green fig preserve. Henry grins at me.

On the Go is edited by Jeremy Shepherd Smith Email: jeremys@thenewage.co.za Phone: 011 542 1263\082 673 3690 www.thenewage.co.za