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Created for Vertical Frontier Climbing Club Erik Kloeker 2011

The act of Rock Climbing is inherently dangerous in nature. By receiving proper instruction and demonstrating all the proper safety precautions we can greatly reduce the risk involved, however equipment failure and human error during rock climbing can result in serious injury. In order to participate in Rock Climbing you must take responsibility for your own safety and assume all of the risks involved. This presentation is intended to be an informational introduction to rock climbing safety and is not a substitute for proper personal instruction.

All rock climbing is classified 1. 2. under the category 5 and is 3. rated using a decimal system. For example 5.1 would be the easiest possible rock climb the4. rating for hardest climbs are always increasing and are currently in the 5.14-.5.15 5. range.

Walking Hiking Scrambling: hands required Dangerous scrambling: falls can be fatal Free ClimbingRopes are Necessary
5.13+ Pro

5.1-5.6 Easy

5.7-5.9 Moderate

5.10-5.12 Advanced

Bouldering- is the simplest type of climbing it involves climbing short technical routes with no harness or ropes and only pads for protection from falls. Top Roping- is the safest form of climbing taller rocks and involved using a rope through anchor points at the top of the route and a belayer on the ground arresting your fall. Lead Climbing- Also called sport climbing it is a more advanced type of climbing in which a climber clips his rope into fixed bolts in the rock as they go up.

Zach Davis lead climbs at the Red River Gorge

Trad Climbing- a type of climbing in which a climber leads up a route similar to Sport Climbing except instead of clipping their rope into fixed bolts they place their own temporary protection. This type of climbing reserved for more experienced climbers.

The only thing you really need to start rock climbing is a pair of climbing shoes, and these can be rented. You will find all other equipment can easily be borrowed from other climbers, however since shoes must fit very exactly, they are usually difficult to borrow. You will want your first pair of climbing shoes to be a comfortable all around shoe. Rock Climbing shoes typically cost anywhere from $50 to over $100. . Despite what people may have told you Vibram Five Fingers
are NOT good shoes for Rock Climbing!

You will find that Rock Climbers are generally willing to let you use/share all the other gear necessary for you to climb. In addition to this VFCC has all the equipment you will need (besides shoes) to go climbing. You will find however that once you are hooked on rock climbing you will want to start purchasing some of your own gear. Once you have shoes the next things you should consider buying are a harness, chalk bag and a belay device/carabiner.

Good Communication while climbing is absolutely imperative to the safety of you and your climbing partners, poor communication is a number one cause of accidents while climbing. When climbing or belaying be clear and loud with your commands. If you are not climbing do no distract those who are belaying. There are several standard verbal commands that are universal among climbers. Take- There is too much slack in the rope, take some in. Falling- I am about to take a fall, lock off your belay. Clipping- during lead climbing only. I am about to clip a bolt I am going to need slack. Rope!!! I am pulling down a rope, watch out so it doesnt hit you in the head. Rock!!! Heads up, I knocked a rock loose and it may hit you.
It is a good idea to say the name of your climbing partner before a command, this avoids confusion especially when there are others climbing nearby. Timmy, Take!

We use the figure 8 follow through knot with a double fishermans backup knot when tying into a climbing harness. Be sure to tie into both the leg and waist loop points of the harness (not the belay loop.)

Belaying is the act of arresting a climbers fall. The most common belay device in use currently is called an ATC (pictured above). Belaying cannot be easily taught without in person instruction so in order to avoid confusion I will not discuss the technique in this presentation. Be aware that belaying for lead climbing takes special knowledge and you must have special certification before belaying someone on a lead climb with the club.

You should perform a safety check before every roped rock climb. Climber: If you are climbing, check to ensure your belayer has his harness on correctly and that the leg and waist straps are double backed. Also ensure that their belay device is set up correctly and carabiner locked. Belayer: If you are the belayer, check to ensure the climber has their figure 8 knot tied correctly and used a backup knot. Also ensure they are tied into their harness correctly using both points of the harness. Finally ensure that their waist and leg straps have been double backed.

When dress to go climbing we strive for unrestricted movement. Anything that might impede your movement, such as tight fitting jeans, should be avoided. Also be sure to keep the weather in mind.

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