Muhammed Ali

:
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-9-3

..........
.
:

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To the lady of challenge in a world full of revenge & avenge.
To my sister Amina .
:

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39
.....
....
100000 3000

40
: ) ( 15 * 39 ) \ ( 7 * 20 167.5 .
= \ :
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= ) 10 + ( 167.5 * 39
= 6543 = 6542.5 .
.
= 816 .
= 8.018 = 816 \ 6543

= 9 .
= 727 = 9 \ 6543 .
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= \ :
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50
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51
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52
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= \ . 1.69
= 6543
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% 15
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67
68
:
:
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X1 = number of warps / 180
X1 = (6533+10) / 180 = 36.35
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% 78.6 .
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69
70
71
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% 15
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:
:
: X = X1 / X2
X1 = number of warps / 180
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X2 = c100
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X = 35.48 / 46.2 = 0.767
% 76.7 .
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72
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.
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-8 :
80
) ( .
-5-3 :
][4
) (..
.
: ) ( 15 * 39 ) \ ( 7 * 20 167.5 .
: :

: ) (
:
4
20
2 1
6 5 4 3
= 24 .
= \ = 24 \ 6543
1088 = 4 * 272 .
= 272 = 272.6 .
5440 = 20 * 272 .
544 .
6 5 4 3 1360 .
% 60 .
81
20
2 1
8 7 6 5 4 3
544 .
8 7 6 5 4 3 907 .
% 95 85
.
: ) + 7* 20( \ ) ( 16 * 39 163.5 .
: .

: ) (
:
= 79 = 78.8 = 81 \ 6387 :
4
4
16
64
4 3 2 1
8 7 6 5
4 3 2 1
8 7 6 5
4 3 2 1
8 7 6 5
4 3 2 1
16
8 7 6 5
1 12 10 \
14 10 \ .
82
83
-6-1 :
][2
-1 F
.
F=W/I
F
.
-2 .
-3 D :
:
)D = (500*COUNT
)D = (800*COUNT
-4 T
:
-
- :
)T = (800*COUNT) * (F+4
- ) (F+4 :
TWILLED HOPSAK
6.5
4-END SATEEN
6.5
3/3 HOPSAK
7.5
5-END SATEEN
7.5
PLAIN WEAVE
4.75
2/2 HOPSAK
6.25
4/4 HOPSAK 8.5
6-END SATEEN
7.75
8-END SATEEN 9.0
MAYO OR CAMBELL
6.5
[5] :
84
85
][5
][5
GAMMA :
][5
- : 188
9 .
8 15 .
- : 184
2 .
0 9 .
-6-2 :
][9
86
.1

. T
.2

.T1
.3
87
: M
: G . 9.81
: S .
: X .
.4 :

:
-
.
.
: 2 . cm
: C2 . Kg/cm
88

) (
.
.5 ): (F2
: 3 . cm
: C3 . Kg/cm
.6 ): (S1
89
.7 ): (S2
) (........
.8 .
.9 ): (S3

:
-
) . (CN/ tex
) . (CN/ tex
). (%
). (CV %
.
90
-6-3 :
][9
-6-4 :
][4
C o
C o
18 21
70 75
22 25
70 75
19 22
65
23 25
65
20 25
75
25
80
14 21
60 75
23 25
65 60
20 24
65 70
24 26
65 70
-6-5 :
][4
)(
200
150
200
700
75
500
500
500
91
-6-6 :
][10
1 :
) (6-1 :
42.44
------
40 - 42
20 - 23
------
0.1
24 - 39
17
109 - 117
3.7 4.8
50 - 114
25 -52
------
0.1 0.3
6-8
9 - 14
36 - 41
------
25 - 26
14 - 17
30 - 32
1.3 1.6
19
16.3 18.7
8.1 - 11
2.7 6.9
2.1 3.2
1.9 2.6

)(
) (6-1

2 :
92
) (6-1 :
mm
) (6-1
3 :
=K
R.M
:
: R
: M )(%
: n ,K .
)(6-13 :
)Log (R
93
M%
)(6-2
-6-7 :
][4
GAMMA PICANOL
gamma 500 /
sumo

.
:
- - ) ( .
- ) ( 330 - 30
- sm ) -
slow mochin0
- - - - . . . . . .
-1 ) (

-2 .
94
-3
.
- .
- ) (ref .
) ( . - - -
47
.
- - .
) ( 8
150 . : 8
15 13.6 .
- :
- 184
90 .

-
- . . . . . . . . . . .
)(
95
:

10 . - 8 .
6 . - 4 .
.
.
- ) (etu
) (etu

: 150 :

75 = 2\150 .
:
77.5 = 2.5+75
78 = 3+ 75
96
97
-7-1 :
][8
.
-7-1-1 :
) (
.
-7-1-2 :
.
.
-7-1-3 :
4-12%
20%

.
98
-7-1-3-1 :
) (AMYLASE .
) ( 70c0
.

)(
99
-1 )-( .
-2 .
-3 .
-4 .
-5 .
-7-1-3-2 :
2%

.
-7-1-3-3 :
0.5-1%

.
-7-1-4 :

.
-7-1-4-1 :
- .
- .
- :
100
- :
:2cl2+2H2o 4Hcl + o2
:2H2o2 2H2o + o2

:
: .1
.2 .
.3 .
.4 .
- :
.5 .
.6 .
.7 .
.8 .
-7-1-4-2 :
-1 .
-2

-3 -
.
101
-4
.
- .
-7-2 :
][8
.
.
-7-2-1
:
-
Stiffening agent
Weighting agent
Softening agent
.
-
- .
- .
* - :

. ........
102
* - :

* - :

. 5%
. 0.4 % . 6 %
-
) (
). C17H35CON(C2H4CH
-7-2-2 :
.
:
- :
) ( ) (
) ( 1/16 )
( ) (
103
750kg / Inch 94o -103 oC
4.8%
- :

) (
kg / Inch
2000 250
. 12%
-7-2-3 :
) (
.
.
50 10

. .
*** :
-1 .
-2 .
104
-3
-4 .
*** :
-1 .
-2 .
-3 .
-1
) ( Exhausion Method
5% (1 .
3% (2 .
( 30 20 )oC ( 20 30 ) min
. 100 : 1 50 : 1
-2 :
30 - 60 g / L
2-5% .
-3 :
2 -5%
.
-7-2-4 :
-1
105
-2
.
- :
-1
.
-2 :
.
.
- :

.
- .
106
107
-8-1 :
][3
-8-2 :
][3
-8-2-1 :
) (
) (

.

108
-8-3 :
][3
30 \
.
% 20
.
.
109
-8-3-1 :
-1 .
-2
.
-3 .
-4 .
(
)
. % 20
) ( ...
) (
-8-3-2 :

110
/
/
.
-8-4 :
][3
-8-5 :
][3
.
.

111

. .
.
-8-6 :
][3
) (

112
-8-7 :
][3
-8-8 :
][3
.
.

113
-8-9 :
][3

.
.
-8-10 :
][3
.

114

115
116
117
-9-1 :
][6
(
) :
. .
(.
)
9000 1987
.......
.
/ 8402 / /
/ 9000
9000
/ 9004 , 9003 , 9002 , 9001 , 9000 / 2000

. iso 9001 iso 9004 iso 19001
9000 ) TOTAL QUALITY
( TQM ) ( MANEGEMENT 9000 .
9000
. 1993 83
9000 200000 230
100
9000
118
9000
9000 .
.
-
9000
-
119
-9-2 : TQM
][6
TQM

PDCA

) ( TQM
ISO
P = plem C = check
A = Act
D = Do
120
-9-3 :
][6
-9-3-1 :
* : .
Software Hardware
Processed Materials . Tangible
) ( ) ( .
* : Resources Activities
.
* : .

. Non Conforming
* : .
. Percent Defective
* :
.
.
* : ) (
.
.
* :
.
* : .
* : .
* :
.
* : " "
.
.
* : "
" .
* : "
. " Subsupplier
121
* :
. .

. .
.
.
-9-3-2 :
* :
. :
-1 : Features Characteristics
)
. ( 8402
-2 :
.
-3 : .
-4 : .
-5 :
.
-6 : .
* :
. .
* : .
.
* : ) ( )
( ) ( .
122
* :
. .
* :
.
.
123
-1

-2

....
-3
-4

124
125
warping
beam warping
seetional warping
direct beaming
impregnation
float
design
reeding -sleying
embroidery
shade
bagging
shuttle boxes change
loosing and cleaning
linking
repeat of warp
shedding felting
stretch
iustring
hackling
126
raising
making up
colour fastness
piece
laying methods
jersey
clip
fleece
imitation leather
glucose
glycerin
take -up motion
beaming device
sizing apparatus
weaver,s beam drive

jute
baise
warp creel
simple warp creel
magazine warp creel
beam creel
thread guide carrier
warper,s beam frame
127
double beaming device
sisal ropes
rope
tow
pick
singeing
let -off motion
warp stop motion
drive of reed carriage
silk
raw silk
pile yarn
z-twist yarn
effect thread
carpet yarn
extract yarn
munago -yarn
blended yarn
carded yarn
slub yarn
hand spun
twine
bulked yarn
128
folded yarn
double -twist yarn
single -twist yarn
simple ply yarn
spun yarn
single yarn
wound yarn
crimp yarn
worsted yarn
cotton sewing threads
face threads
continuous filament viscose yarns
faney yarns
light twisted white woolen yarns
tinsel
metallic threads
heald
shuttle box
warping drum
fixed warping drum
transportable warping drum
guide roller
129
pressure roller
measuring roller
lay (sley,slay )
guide
thread guide
sails cotton fabric
shirting
linsey -woolsey
printed napped cotton cloth
bark cloth
back crey (back cloth )
bonded fabric
burn-out fabric
union fabric
sleazy fabric
american cloth
egyptain cloth
rib fabric
print
coating
bed spread fabric

rubberized cloth
woven fabric
130
hairy
)(
oil skin
camlet
brushed fabric
reversible fabric
ready _made shirts
ready made night dresses
shirt
half sleeve
hemp
beaver
tension
indirect measuement
briad
cape
copper sulphide
durable press
linen
line
density
alcohol
tie
jacquard card
131
card
trellis(pattern )
crease
crepe georgette
cream
tuck
card clothing
heel
cake
barium chlorate
curpie chloride
kelim
sleeve
rags
camisole
frill
ruffle
scarf
leotard
kier
anhydrous
bright
felt
132
latex
quilt
mispicks
bias filling
weft
broken pick
plastic
threading drop wires
picker
picking stick buffer

picking cam
picking bowl
beaming
hemming
link
drawing_in
lustre
gloss
lint
white absaorbent cotton lint
burst bolls
ground colour
dark colour
133
hiph tenacity fibre

distilled water
condensed water
soft water
material
bleach
Ironing board
filling material
carrier
raw material
foreign matter
caustic
washing agent
merino
pirn
diagonal
novelty(weave )
twill
reversed twill
whipcord
wave twill
curved twill
spotted
134
bactericide
fungicide
chemic
strength
even
iridescent
deliquescent
temple
inhibitor
emulsion thickener
dryer
cylinder dryer
radiation dryer
festoon dryer
multi-passege dryer
single passege dryer
lye
bodkin
cone
stock
boardy
diluent
blend
135
medallion
sovlent
mirror
mattress
spindle
mordant
mercerizing
filter
concentrate
resilience
apron dress
glace
double-face
lubricant
three-ply
oiler
mixture
porosity
emulsion
hygroscopie
bleaching powder
cellulose derivatives
corset
136
leasing reed
reed
circular comb
spring comb
zig-zag comb
expanding comb
) (
rayon
wool grade
garment
foundation garment
riding habit
sheath dress
dicky
humidity
moisture regain
relative humidity
burling
down
eider down
doubling
tabby
feeding liquor
curtain
137
oriental rugs
persian

()
velvet pile carpet

hand made carpets of allwool pile
carpet
drawing
draft
crossing warp
float warp
warping speed
drop wire
doffer comb
cellophane
cellulose
regenerated cellulose
depth of warp section
boll weevil
sisal
heavy absorbent cotton gauze
card web
shawl
gauze
138
levantine
ribbon
seam binding
slubbing
sliver
cotton ribbons for slide fasteners
rickrack braid
rinsing
horse hair
cashmere
mohair
kemps
dead pile
wool fibres
hair
animal fibre
bristle
cotton fibres
filament
) (
hosiery
hank
wax
139
chamois
dyeing
cheese dyeing
slubbing dyed
stock-dyed
hank-dyed
package -dyeing
piece -dyeing
cop dyeing
hiph-tempeature dyeing
level dyeing
continuous dyeing
direct dyeing
) (
)dye(dyestuff
leuco vat dye
acetate dye
cochineal
beam dyeing
acide dye
basic dye
chrome dye
vegetable dye
course
140
wales
single-breasted
rope making
sheep,s wool
virgin wool
greasy wool
merino wool
extract
automatic speed adjustment
manual temperature adjustment
beat -up
printing
warp print
roller printing
direct printing
hand blocking
warp sheet
bast
wet spinning method
main cylinder
staple
lenth of warp
cape
141
uneven print
uneven dyeing
levelling agent
dispersing agent
anti -felt agent
defoaming agent
dye fixing agent
alkall binding agent
jute (or kenaf )packages
wound packe
counter
speedometer
lengthcounter
cut counter
setof warp
hitch-back
ring rail
reed carriage
width of warp seetion
width of warp sheet
dye stick
kerchief
centrifugal extractor
142
neps
bar
temple marks
chafe mark
hanger
rope mark
clip stenter
reedmark
cut mark
seam mark
colourimetry
engraving depth
depth of shade
winding process
colour blindness
skirting
cotton waste
) (
)deep (shade
cable stitch
herringbone stitch
buttonhole stitch
blind stitch
143
ager
spinning
tyre yarn
flaxspinning
flyer spinning
home spun
bump yarn
cap spinning
combed yarn
manual spinning
piece scour
back washing
) kiering (kier bolling
dipping
nonshringk
insoluble
unbleached
seamless
undyed
impermeable
showerproof
warping drum lath
flyer
144
ends
pick
broken -end
candlwick
interatice
sheepskin
imitation fur
crabbing
stripper
ply
lambskin
viscose
leopard
serviette
polishing cloth
napkin
riser
washable
) (
)dark(shade
former
hat
cheese
145
cutting
discharge
warp section
splitting rod
needle bar
sinker bar
cotton
cotton wool
peruvian cotton
wadding
sea island cotton
absorbent cotton wool
immature cotton
velvet
veiveteen
dead cotton
) (
corduroy
glove
mitten
screen
stripe
hood
cloth
146
circular-knitted fabric
) (
bobbinnet
alliagtore cloth
worsted twill gabardine
nun,s velling
face cloth
netting
flax fabric
bolting cloth
loom state
melton
suiting farbic
duffle
)towelling (terry
filter cloth
knitted fabric
warp-knitted farbic
)(2/2
cotton twill cloth
gabardine
cotton gabardine cloth
worsted gabardine cloth
147
plain fabric
gray fabric
tent fabric
bleached callco
1/1
) (1/3
cotton cloth drill
canvas
linenduck fabric
linen duck for sails
awning cloth
unbleached callco
printed cotton zephyr
) (1/1

fish net cloth
sail cloth
umbrella cloth
buck skin
printed cotton sheet
(1/1
woolen fabric blended with nylon

for overcoats
plaid

sacking
)(2/2
all wool flannel cloth

148
flannel cloth made from wool and

man made fibres
friese
moths
hinged reed
striker cylinder
horizontal opener
porcupine opener
virtical opener
crighton opener
kirchner beater
carding beater
ultra cleaner
elastic
beam
weaver,s beam
warper,s beam
back beam
dyeing beam
ombre
developer
ready-made overcoats
149
titration
opaque
accelerator
read-to-wear-
over coat
spencer
gauge
bones
coverlet
tray cloth
upholstery
shrink resistant
cruch _resistant
abrasion resistance
bursting strength
tensile strength
moth repellency
crease resistance
scissors
cutter
cut
colorimeter
tape condenser
150
frame
desizing machine
degumming machine
slubbing frame
intermediate frame
cottage steamer
warping machine
motor
beaming machine
jigger
gin

sewing machine
blending hopper and automatic

mixer
doubling frame
drawing frame
doubling of slivers
tentering frame
damp fabric
drying chamber
drum dyeing machine
duplex printing machine
ring spinning frame
yarn wound on bobbin
151
flyer spinning frame
scutcher
calender rollers
starting handle
sliver lap machine
double scutcher
ribbon lap machine
flyer frame
speed frame
warp sizing machine
pirn winding machine
knitting machine
thread guide
tubular fabric
cam boxes
warp-knitting machine
circular knitting machine
Raschell-Knitting machine
base plate
fully fashioned
flat kniting machine
beam warping machine
cone sectional
152
sectional warping machine
worsted card
roller and clearer card
doubling machine
hopper feeder
bale-breaker
lattice feeder
feed box
dust extrcting fan
conveyor lattice
raw-wool opener
teaser
two-cylinder opener
mixing bale opener
comber
nippers
top nipper
top comb
bottom nipper
detaching rollers
raising machine
cropper
153
danty
ring doubling farme
two-for-one twister
melange gill box
beamer
gill box
intersecting gill box
autoleveller gill box
spindle draw-box
autoleveller draw frame
porcupine draw-box
hiph draft finisher
cop dyeing machine
printing machine
pleating machine
tufting machine
mule
cap spinning machine
rope washing machine
back wash
scroll rode
water pipe
154
crabbing machine
shearing machine
carding machine
sliver
doffer comb
scutcher lap
main driving pulley
feed roller
taker-in roller
taker-in under casing
raising machine
raised fabric
pressing machine
heated pressing cylinder
press
rotary press
cone-winding frame
open gill
iron
shuttle
bag
sheet
shuttle tip
155
shuttle eye
pirn
metal contact sleeve for weft

feeler
spring -slip pirn holder
scourer
opener
traverse
soap powder
beach clothes
underwear
dress
lingerie
common salt
handle
)full (shade
hackling machine
finished goods
nippers
handkerchief
frayed
jute (or kenaf) fabrics
debby weave fabric
156
detergents
wave motion
stippled
muslin
mauve
moqutte
pinafore
by -product
nylon
dehydration
tear
moisture content
liquor-goods ratio
textiles
tapestry
satin weave
backing
bolting silk
honeycomb weave
plain weave
rib weave
panama weave
basket weave
157
gauze weave
soleil weave
starch
half -bleach
half -silk
half -damask
half wool
bleeding
tex-system
drafting system
dots
158
________
_______
picanol
_______
picanol
2007
.
][2
.
1998
-
][3
][4
2003
][5
][6
1997
ISO 9000
CTB research .
Item group
][1
1997
][7
][8
][9
2006
____________
___________
159
][10

Muhammed Ali

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:

- uster 2001 uster 1997

Zweigle : . - D314 : . P220

) ( ) 10% ( Tolerance . 15%

.. 1981 / 219 150

(1) P =r.er + xex

)(12) T =To + 0,5 mV2 (N

= 8.018 = 816 \ 6543

= 7.82 = 816 \ 6387

-10 1000 1600 1800

150 1200 / 540 .

-11 1400 1600 1800 .

) Crn = 1.25 1.00 0.75 ) 3 2 1

5.2 ---- 4.6

7.0 ---- 6.5

7.0 ---- 5.4

= 193.5 = ( 1.69 \ 20 ) \ 6543 .

= 188.9 = ( 1.69 \ 20 ) \ 6387 .

(4 ULN 1600 1800 :

)(124 116 )(12-9

750kg / Inch 94o -103 oC

/ 9004 , 9003 , 9002 , 9001 , 9000 / 2000

9000 ) TOTAL QUALITY

( TQM ) ( MANEGEMENT 9000 .

9000 200000 230

Processed Materials . Tangible

shuttle boxes change

loosing and cleaning

take -up motion

weaver,s beam drive

magazine warp creel

thread guide carrier

warper,s beam frame

double beaming device

let -off motion

warp stop motion

drive of reed carriage

double -twist yarn

single -twist yarn

simple ply yarn

cotton sewing threads

light twisted white woolen yarns

fixed warping drum

transportable warping drum

sails cotton fabric

printed napped cotton cloth

back crey (back cloth )

bed spread fabric

ready _made shirts

ready made night dresses

threading drop wires

picking stick buffer

white absaorbent cotton lint

hiph tenacity fibre

single passege dryer

velvet pile carpet

depth of warp section

heavy absorbent cotton gauze

leuco vat dye

automatic speed adjustment

manual temperature adjustment

wet spinning method

anti -felt agent

dye fixing agent