MULCHES FOR ENHANCED, LOW-COST, LOW-MAINTENANCE LANDSCAPES

Malcolm Beck, Garden-Ville Horticultural Products Jerry M. Parsons and Roland E. Roberts, Texas Cooperative Extension
Introduction

The quality of food we eat, water we drink and air we breathe -- in fact the well being of all plant and animal life -- is determined by the quality of our topsoil. The earth's crucial thin layer of soil must be protected, maintained, built and nourished. A mulch cover of various materials on soil enables, conserves and enhances our precious soil. What is mulch? Natural mulch consists of dead leaves, twigs, fallen branches and other plant debris which accumulate on the earth's surface. Bacteria, fungi and other living organisms use these raw organic materials for food, a process we know as decay. In the natural scheme of things, decay is Nature's way of returning to the earth the raw materials borrowed by previous generations of plants. Organic mulches not only conserve moisture, they also feed plants, earth worms, microbes and other beneficial soil life by composting at the moist earth surface. More species and tonnage of life occurs below than above the soil surface. All soil life needs energy. They cannot collect energy directly as green plants do, but the feed on energy released from decaying mulch which is their preferred food source. As microbes digest organic materials they give off a sticky substance that glues soil particles into a crumb-like structure. Carbon dioxide-oxygen exchange necessary for healthy root growth and proliferation of beneficial soil life is enhanced. Better control of soil pathogens results. Crumb-like or crumbly soil structure also allows water to soak in better. Water that soaks in is held on the humus and clay particles for future plant use. Water amounts higher than the field capacity of a soil is filtered by organic matter as it flows downward to feed aquifers that supply drinking water. Soils which have lost crumb structure need mulch cover to re-build. People can adapt natural mulching to cropping practices and to production and landscape-use of ornamental plants by using available living or dead organic matter and inorganic materials. Public interest in mulch is aroused for two reasons: labor savings and plant advantages. Native materials collected in your area are the best mulch. It is neither economical nor environmentally feasible to ship in barks, woodchips or some other fancy material from a distant source when usually there are nearby materials being wasted. Reasons for Mulching Unfortunately, mulching does not perform instant miracles, but it encourages better plant growth and development, and makes all landscape maintenance operations easier. These benefits accrue whether plants are growing in the coolest or hottest climates or in the wettest or driest weather. A mulch is any material placed on the soil surface to conserve moisture, lower soil temperatures around plant roots, prevent erosion and reduce weed growth. Mulches can be derived from either organic or inorganic materials. What Do Mulches Do? Mulch insulates and protects soil from drying and hard-baking effects caused by evaporation of water

from soil exposed to hot sun and winds. Mulched soils are cooler than non-mulched soils and have less fluctuation in soil temperature. Optimum soil temperatures and less moisture evaporation from the soil surface enables plants to grow evenly. Plant roots find a more favorable environment near the soil surface where air content and nutrient levels are conducive to good plant growth. Mulches break the force of rain and irrigation water thereby preventing erosion, soil compaction and crusting. Mulched soils absorb water faster. Mulches prevent splashing of mud and certain plant disease organisms onto plants and flowers during rain or overhead irrigation. The mulch covering excludes light which prevents germination of many weed seeds. Fewer weeds provide less competition for available moisture and nutrients. Using mulches to control weeds is safer than applying herbicides or cultivating which can damage tender, newly formed roots. Mulches also add attractive features to landscape. Research and common sense have shown that a high organic content favors soil microbes which detoxify pesticides after they are used and also furnishes energy needed by the microbes to make high analysis fertilizers available to plants without the fertilizer itself becoming toxic. This is another great benefit of using organic mulches. Decaying organic mulch on soil keeps both plants and beneficial soil life species flourishing so they can help each other. Management of Mulches Apply mulches in a layer 2 to 6 inches thick. Layer thickness depends on mulch material, e.g., coarser mulches are applied more thickly. Thicker layers of mulch are placed around trees and shrubs than in flower or vegetable beds. Four inches of loose fibrous materials works well around trees and shrubs. The finer and smaller the particle size, the thinner the layer needs to be. Thick layers of very fine material block air to the roots of plants. In their search for air, roots will grow up into mulch, which can be harmful to plants if the layer of mulch is not constantly maintained. Organic mulching materials should be added regularly to maintain the desired layer thickness. Shredded branches from tree trimmings and large two-inch bark is a fibrous or loose mulch. Leaves or leaves mixed with some grass clippings and one-inch size bark would be a medium mulch. When using medium mulch, the layer should be about two inches thick. One-half inch and smaller materials, such as fine-screened and double-ground barks, should only be one inch thick layers. When piled to thickly, these tiny particles can quickly settle together and prevent air and water from penetrating into the soil. The finer, smaller materials should be used around small flowers and vegetables. When applying mulch around plants, cover the entire area of soil containing roots. Do not pile mulch against tree trunks. It isn't needed against trunks and may do harm. Donut mulch around plants to be benefited allowing the plant to be in the hole of the donut structure. Mulches can increase availability of certain elements in the soil. Gardeners can make a synthetic chelate with mulch by mixing one cup of iron sulfate (copperas) to each bushel of mulch applied. Iron particles will adhere to the surface of the mulching material and will be released for plant use as decomposition occurs around plants. Iron sulfate treated mulches are also effective when incorporated into the soil.

Mulching Your Lawn The Texas A&M Don't Bag It Program which encourages people to mow frequently and allow grass clippings to remain on lawn areas, and mulching lawn mowers are best for mulching your lawn naturally. However, most lawns will benefit from additional mulching. Naturally you wouldn't use the same mulch you put around flowers, shrubs and trees. It is best to supply one-half inch of fine screened compost in the fall or early winter after the grass has stopped growing. During periods of water restrictions, cover bare areas or dead turf with one inch of a red sand : compost lawn dressing

mix to precondition the area for replanting when water is once again available. Remember, all grasses and grass seed must be watered AT LEAST twice a day for 7 to 10 days after sodding or sowing to insure stand survival and water restrictions prohibit such water use. The use of lawn dressing during drought conditions will insure a rapid establishment of lawn grasses when planting can occur and will make unsightly areas more attractive. Lawns are our biggest water consumers. For this reason lawns are the most important places to practice water conservation by mulching. Lawns with no crumb structure, no humus, no beneficial soil life or root colonizing microbes require more care. Watering with Mulch While mulches do retain moisture in the soil, it will still be necessary to water plants growing in mulched soils. Water should be targeted beneath the mulch specifically at the root zone of desirable plants. Drip irrigation is the most efficient, effective watering technique. The only fate worse than thirst for a plant is death. In fact, death can follow severe thirst! Even if some folks are wise enough to know when to water a thirsty plant just seconds before it crosses death's threshold, these procrastinators are still losers. When a plant thirsts and is severely stressed, overall vigor and production (of flowers and fruit) are decreased. Shrubs display foliage abnormalities! Flowers bloom with mediocrity! Trees do not grow rapidly! How does one know when to water? When to Water Soil moisture level is the best criterion for watering. If soil moisture is adequate, don't water, even if a plant is wilted. To test for soil moisture, probe around plants with your finger. If the soil is moist several inches deep, i.e., will form a ball when squeezed, there is adequate moisture present. How to Water You may know when to water, but you may not know how. Knowing "how" may be the most important part. First of all, plant soils need to be thoroughly wet not saturated. These are not swamp plants we are trying to grow. If treated as such, garden plants and most trees will respond appropriately by dying. Deep watering is desirable to insure development of deep, drought-tolerant root systems. It is best to water plants thoroughly and deeply with drip irrigation. "Drip or trickle" irrigation is a unique method which allows precise application of water in the immediate vicinity of plant roots. Soil moisture in the root area around the plants is maintained at a uniformly optimum level throughout the growing season. Small amounts of water are applied frequently to replace that withdrawn by transpiration of water from leaves. Most water loss by evaporation from the soil IS PREVENTED BY MULCH! Growth and production of plants is greater with uniform watering (kept moist - not too wet or dry) rather than being subjected to wet and dry cycles which normally occur with other irrigation methods. Operation of a drip system for three hours per day every other day will insure adequate soil moisture. Distribution and evaporation losses are minimized. Less of the total soil surface area is fully wetted than with sprinkler systems. Normally, only 25 percent of the soil surface is wetted with drip. This significantly reduces the amount of water required for irrigation. This does not reduce the plant's water requirement. Drip irrigation also simplifies irrigation procedures and reduces labor requirements. Drip systems can be easily activated from one faucet. A drip irrigation system also waters otherwise forgotten or missed plants. Once drip hose is installed around shrubs, vegetables and flowers, it never "forgets" to water - it specifically waters each and every plant.

Drip systems are available at most local nurseries. Try one and reap the many rewards which it offers. Drip systems can be used to water during periods when drought restrictions forbid most other types of watering. However, drip systems are not fool proof and must be properly maintained for best results. Proper Use of Mulches In garden beds planted every year, organic mulches can be incorporated into the soil each year to improve soil structure. New mulch is applied each year. Regardless of the source of organic matter, two factors are important to the user. One is the stage of mulch decomposition and the second is relative salinity of the material. Manures and sludges are usually saline and may sometimes cause trouble unless used in moderation. One question with organic mulches dependent upon the state of decomposition is whether to add a nitrogen source to the mulch. Many fresh materials may require this to avoid nitrogen tie-up. The microbes decomposing untreated wood and bark use nitrogen. In this example some nitrogen must be added. Slow-release nitrogen fertilizers are much more effective. When required, nitrogen can be added at the rate of one-half pound of actual nitrogen per 10 cubic feet of material. Organic Mulches Municipal Tree Trimmings - Using local mulch (from municipal tree trimmings) around plants has certain advantages over pine or hardwood bark. The contents of the local mulch is much closer to the contents of rich compost. The local mulch blend actually feeds plants being mulched but bark usually causes nutrients to be robbed from plants being mulched. Bark (Pine) - Ground bark is available mostly from pine trees in sizes ranging from 2-inch chunks to a fine grind. It provides an attractive long-lasting cover and is usually reddish brown in color. Grass clippings - These should be used only before grass seed has ripened, must be spread thin (two inches or less) and allowed to dry. If applied too thick they will build up heat and foul odors and become slimy during decomposition. Compost - This dark colored material is easily spread and has slight nutrient value. It may be highly satisfactory where available from commercial producers or homeowners. Peat Moss - Fine texture and good color are characteristic of peat moss, but it has a tendency to dry out and become impervious to water. It is costly to use in large quantities. Domestic peat moss may be so finely ground that it will blow away and is difficult to wet if it becomes dry. Water may run off rather than be absorbed by it. Pine Needles - Needles are green when fresh then turn reddish brown to gray upon drying, are longlasting and supply nutrients as they decompose. Pine needles make attractive mulch which is good for acid-loving plants such as azaleas, gardenia, and hydrangeas. Sawdust - If fresh sawdust is incorporated into the soil, supplemental nitrogen should be added to prevent nutrient deficiencies. Shavings - Shavings last longer than sawdust and will not mat as badly, decompose rapidly but blow away easily during strong winds. Wood chips mixed with shavings pull much nitrogen from soil. Nitrogen level must be increased. Straw - Straw is coarser, more durable than most kinds of hay, and in most instances, is not attractive in ornamental plantings unless chopped. Straw requires applications of nitrogen because of

its non-decomposed nature. Wood Chips - In landscape operations wood chips offer a useful method for disposing of waste twigs and branches. It is good mulch, coarser than sawdust and less likely to cause nitrogen deficiency. Wood chips are long-lasting, lie flat, and do not blow away easily in strong winds. Cypress chips do not decompose within our lifetime and disrupt water movement in soil into which they have been incorporated so DO NOT TILL CYPRESS CHIPS INTO THE SOIL!! Instead, rake or pull cypress mulch off beds before tilling and re-apply again after planting. Inorganic Mulches Inorganic materials used for mulches do not add nutrients or humus to soil and do not decompose except after long exposure to weathering. Otherwise these materials are effective mulches, and several are permanent and quite attractive. Crushed Rock - Crushed volcanic rock or stones are available in many colors or sizes and make a permanent cover. These materials are especially useful around plants subject to crown rot. Spread deeply, crushed rock can be walked on immediately after watering. Remember that white rock radiates sunlight and can create too much heat for most plants to survive. Black rock absorbs heat and can cause soil temperatures to be hotter than normal. A caution: Inorganic mulches of this type are exceedingly difficult to maintain and keep clean under pine or other very small-leaved evergreens. Pea Gravel - Pea gravel is an attractive permanent mulch. It is usually applied 2 to 4 inches deep and can be reused indefinitely. Pea gravel in various sizes is especially good for soil surface around plants in containers. Plastic Film - Plastic film is used to cover vegetable beds. In ornamentals it is often used under gravel or stone mulches. It is not practical under sharp stones unless used with 1-inch layer of sand between soil and stones. Plastic is difficult to dispose of when used on large areas. Conserving moisture, slowing flood waters, reducing pesticide use, healthier plants, smothering weeds, saving money recycling materials considered waste -- and on and on. We still have not yet discovered all the benefits of mulching. WE HAVE DISCOVERED that the proper use of mulches can help us and our plants make it through the hot, dry times ahead -- AND IN STYLE!! Mulching is about SAVING (plant life, resources, environment, labor) FOR NOW AND FOREVER!!!!

MULCH DYE

Anyone who's had some kind of experience gardening and landscaping knows what mulch dye is. But for beginner gardeners, we will take a closer look at what mulch dye and mulching is all about. Mulch is a beneficial layer or cover which is spread directly on top of the soil in your garden. It helps in keeping the soil moist, decrease the risk of soil erosion during rainy seasons and while watering, provides nutrients to the soil and plants, decreases the chances of weed growth, and increases seed germination. If you are not able to give ample attention to your garden, then mulch is the best way to go. Apart from the benefits we talked about above, mulch also helps in protecting the plants in various weather and temperature changes. The plants don't get easily frozen or thawed due to the presence of mulch. But that was all about mulch. What about mulch dye? What is it good for? Well, what mulch dye does is makes your garden look good, more aesthetic. Whenever we plant beautiful flower and/or fruit plants, the mulch gives the entire garden an elegant look. There are different types of mulch, as in different colors of mulch that you can purchase from the garden stores such as shades of red, gold, black, and brown. However, going to the store and purchasing a new bag of colored mulch can be pretty expensive. And hence, to keep the expenses to a minimum and still get your mulching requirements covered, why not make mulch dye at home. Want to know how? Read the rest of the article. How to Make Mulch Dye In the following section, we will go over the instructions on how to make mulch dye at home. All it

takes is few simple ingredients and the right steps. With the basic recipe mentioned below, you can easily make gallons of dyed mulch and save money on yourgardening and landscaping expenses.

First of all, wear comfortable clothing (anything that you don't mind getting dirty or stained) and protective garden gloves. The dye we'll be using is a semi-permanent one, so it is quite likely that you may get your clothes dirty. Next, before making the dye, spread the mulch all over the soil in your garden. Now we collect the mulch dye ingredients - 16 oz. mulch colorant, a 5 gallon bucket, and 1 gallon water. Whether you got gold, red, brown, or black mulch dye, the colorant package will have specific mixing directions mentioned on the back. Add the water in the bucket and mix the colorant as well. Stir with a paint stirrer to get the color incorporated completely. All there's left to do is add the colored water inside the garden sprayer. And now you know what your next move will be, spraying the mulch all over your garden with the dye. Make sure you are spraying adequate amount of dye over the mulch and not overdoing it in particular areas.

While spraying the mulch dye, it's normal to get the solution concentrated in certain areas. To avoid that error, have someone watch you while you're doing this step and tell you where you missed. Also, make sure that the dye you use is nontoxic so that if it gets soaked into the soil, it won't damage your garden in any way. This way, you can assure that your garden or landscape gets the best coverage possible. As time passes, the mulch dye may fade. But with the steps given above, you can easily made mulch dye whenever you want and replenish the look of your garden.

RED MULCH DANGERS

The scenic beauty of flowers growing against a red background is worth the onlooker's appreciation. Precisely, plants look great, appearing more green and vibrant when planted with red mulch. If we leave aside the aesthetic aspect of using red mulch, there are basically, no benefits, but only harmful effects which it may have on your plants. An important point to make a note of is that red mulch dangers do not involve the dye, but the material from which the mulch has been prepared. For instance, there are several types of mulch which use iron oxide as the dye or vegetable dyes and other natural products. These substances pose no threat to the plants. However, there are still some products which use petrochemical dyes. Although, most commercial dyes are safe, their content of petrochemicals that can be hazardous, particularly to vegetable gardens. So while going for red mulch, one must go for one which specifies that it contains biodegradable pigments. More about the red mulch dangers follows...

What are the Dangers of Red Mulch? You run the risk of harboring red mulch dangers only when you are not sure if the mulch has been manufactured using recycled or salvaged wood. The reason? These kinds of woods have all chances of containing Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA). These woods are known as arsenic-treated wood and they result when lumber is treated with CCA. The problem of CCA is that it contains chrome, arsenic and copper, which are the main elements posing red mulch dangers. As a result of improper testing and unlawful recycling, most recycled woods have been found to contain CCA. It is to be known that if the wood for the red mulch has been pressure treated then it must have been treated with CCA thus, with chrome, copper and arsenic. As a result, there are high chances of arsenic leaking into the woods. Arsenic has been found to show carcinogenic activity and thus, it may cause a variety of cancer in animals and humans. So, before you go for red mulching, you would want to know the

details of the wood which had been in use in the manufacturing process. Red Mulch Uses As I am done with my take on the red mulch dangers, before I conclude, here is something you may like to know, additionally, about the use of the mulch. Although unsubstantiated, most farmers and gardeners believe or claim that using red mulch stimulate the growth and improve the health of tomatoes. This is because the mulch reflects more light onto the plants. Although there are several kinds of plants whose yield can be improved using the red mulch. Tomatoes, in particular, have a especial affinity towards this substance. If you are interested in growing ornamental plants and not so particular about the yield, you can provide an interesting visual appearance to the flower bed using chipped red mulch. To conclude, red mulch dangers are not widespread as they used to be earlier and the answer to the question 'is red mulch toxic to animals' would have always been a 'yes'. But now, it is not so. This is because of the fact that most manufactures use non-toxic dyes such as iron oxide in their mulches. Iron oxide essentially rusts and pose no threats to humans or animals. The best red mulch you can get is from land clearing companies. The wood which is used in manufacturing these mulches are brought from the raw lumber, instead of being treated with CCA. So the best thing you can do if you make up your mind to go for red mulch, would be to throw some questions at the dealer and try to reconcile the details with the one cited in this article

Agricultural research has provided us with innovative and effective seed planting techniques like hydroseeding. If you are thinking of opting for this seed planting technique then you must have an estimate of the hydroseeding cost. In this article, I briefly discuss how hydroseeding works and what can you expect the cost of hydroseeding to be for your plant seeding or lawn project. What is Hydroseeding?

Before we talk about hydroseeding cost, let us understand how this process works. Hydroseeding, also known as hydraulic mulch seeding, hydraseeding or hydro mulching is a seed sowing process that was first introduced in the United States of America in the 1950s. Hydroseeding involves spraying a slurry of water, seeds and fertilizer by a hose. Hydroseeding is mostly opted for creating lawns as it promotes rapid growth of grass. Fertilizers, green dyes and tacking agents are often added to the

slurry to aid plant growth. The rapid growth is promoted by the coat of mulch around the seeds which promotes rapid seed germination. The high growth pace is particularly assisted by the water retaining property of the mulch. As the seed germinates and lawn grass grows, the mulch gets decomposed and provides nutrients for its further growth. When used to cover extensive tracts of land, the slurry is usually stored in a trailer or tank and sprayed in an even layer. This technique has also been used to plant seeds in forest fire affected areas. Airplanes loaded with the hydroseeding slurry are used to spray seeds down on the fire affected tracts of land. In some cases even helicopters are used. Hydroseeding has been used to put a green cover on hill sides and decelerate the process of soil erosion. The hydroseeding cost is also quite low compared to conventional sowing methods. Advantages of Hydroseeding Let us have a look at the advantages of using hydroseeding, instead of conventional methods like broadcasting to sow seeds. That will give you an idea about whether the incurred hydroseeding cost is really worth it. The main application of hydroseeding is to seed grass on extensive areas of land like lawns, golf courses and other commercial establishments, where large tracts of land need to be covered. It is also used for planting seeds of shrubs, trees and bushes. It is an effective way of achieving erosion control. Here are some of the advantages of hydroseeding:

It is an established fact that hydroseeded lawns grow faster than the ones seeded with dry seeding methods. Once hydroseeding process is finished, within three to four weeks, you will have a respectable lawn cover. The lawns that grow out of hydroseeded tracts of land are greener and don't need protective weed in the initial stages. The humus added in the form of mulch improves the nutrient content of the soil.

The biggest advantage of hydroseeding is that it is very cost-effective and a lot cheaper than conventional hydroseeding methods. Let us have a look at what are hydroseeding costs are like in the next section. How Much Does Hydroseeding Cost? The main factor which affects hydroseeding costs is the area of land to be covered and to a lesser extent the kind of hydroseeding mixture used. The standard hydroseeding cost is about $0.18 per square foot. This requires about 0.1 gallons of slurry sprayed over a square foot. So hydroseeding cost per acre at that would be $7840, which is quite reasonable. Also, hydroseeding contractors offer a discount on the per square foot price if you are covering a larger area of land. More the area to cover lesser is the price. If you plan to hydroseed a lawn to cover about 10,000 square feet, then the cost offered by contractors could be around $0.11 per square foot. If you are planning to cover more than a million square feet at a time, the hydroseeding cost can be as low as $0.07 per square foot. This includes the spraying cost as well as the cost of the seed mixture. So this was a brief hydroseeding cost analysis and an overview of this non-conventional seed planting method. Contact your nearest hydroseeding contractor to get an idea about local costs.

MULCHING AROUND TREES

Let's us start by trying to answer the question, what is mulching around trees? Mulching is the process used to create a protective covering around the trees. This covering consists mostly of vegetable matter. A mulch can be made of natural substances or artificial substances. Mulching is beneficial for a plant's health. What are the Benefits of Mulching? Is mulching necessary, is a very common question asked by many people. Yes, proper mulching under trees is necessary for a tree's health. Read these benefits of mulching to know what makes mulching trees necessary. Mulching around trees helps in preventing soil erosion. Mulching prevents light from reaching the surface of the soil. This prevents any weed growth. So, mulching for weed control is a good idea. As the mulch decays, it enriches the soil by adding nutrients to it. Thus, using the product obtained from composting as a mulch for trees, acts as a good fertilizer. Mulching helps the soil to retain the moisture, thus preventing evaporation. A mulch is a slope around the tree or plant. So, the possibility of a lawn equipment like lawn mowers running over a tree or shrub is less, due to mulching. In gardening, mulch is very commonly used to beautify the area.

What are the Different Types of Mulch? There are two types of mulch - organic and inorganic. Organic mulch is prepared using natural substances. These substances include leaves, bark of trees, grass, vegetable waste, etc. Organic mulch contains natural substances and therefore it decomposes easily. Inorganic mulch is a mixture of both natural and artificial substances like, pebbles, rubber, black plastic, etc. Inorganic mulch does not decompose. They are a good choice, if you have a weed problem. How Much to Mulch? Mulches should be 2 - 4 inches high for trees. This is the appropriate height required for mulching,

which gives an effective covering to the soil. However, to calculate the amount of mulch required, there are two major factors to be considered. The first one is the square foot area of your garden and the second factor is the amount of mulch depth, you want, in inches. To calculate the square foot of the mulch area, calculate the total area of the garden and subtract the plant area occupied. This is the area where you can lay the mulch. Knowing the regular thickness of mulch, according to different constituting substances also helps in making an easy decision. For example, if the mulch is made of compost, the thickness will be around 1 - 3 inches, for a mulch made of leaves, it will be 4 - 5 inches thick, and a peat moss mulch will be about 1 inch thick. How to Mulch Around Trees? The first step in how to mulch around trees, is to clean the area before applying the mulch. Remove all the grass, weeds and leaves near the tree. Create a circular border of stones around the trees. This border should be of 3 inches diameter. Using your hands, spread the mulch. Make a mulch of the required thickness. Settle the mulch by watering it. This method can be also used for mulching fruit trees and flower trees. To mulch around plants, follow this method. Clean the area of any weeds or leaves. Form a circle made of medium-sized rocks. This circle should be around 2 and a half inches. Spread a 2 inches thick layer of mulch with your hands. Also, make sure that the mulch is at least 2 inches away from the stems of the plant. What is the Right Time for Mulching? Mulching around trees or plants is beneficial throughout the year. However, follow these mulching tips for different seasons. For autumn, use a thick layer of mulch for the trees around 4 inches high. In winter, provide the trees with an extra one inch thickness of mulch. Mulching in the spring time, should be done after the soil warms. For tomato plant, use mulching after the tomatoes blossom. These were some of the FAQ's about mulching around trees. Here are some more tips which will help you in mulching around trees.

Prepare individual mulch according to the type of tree or plant. Check the thickness of the mulch regularly. If required add more mulch, to meet the standard mulch thickness. Sometimes there will be lumps formed in the mulch. Use your hands to break these lumps. Do not pile up the mulch against the stem of the plant or tree trunk. Organic mulch is more popular. If you are using organic mulching under trees, keep it well aerated and well drained. If you face drainage problems with the mulch, decrease an inch of the mulch thickness. Avoid sour mulches as they give out a pungent smell. These mulches can prove harmful for young plants as they might produce toxic elements over some time. Prevent excessive moisture in the mulch. This might lead to rotting of the roots. Excessive mulching may lead to infestation by rodents and spread of certain diseases.

Now you are aware of the general mulching practices. And by keeping these tips for mulching in mind, you can go about the right method of mulching around trees. So, start mulching around your garden and enjoy the benefits of mulching.

TYPES OF MULCH

here are certain organic and inorganic materials that are called mulch which are used to coat the soil in ones garden. The practice of laying down this layer is called mulching, and is done with the primary objective of protecting the soil. Other benefits of mulching include lesser pressure on the soil during heavy rains, and better moisture retention during the summer months. A big benefit is that it prevents weeds from growing and provides a neat, well kept look to the lawn. There are two categories of mulch: organic and inorganic mulch. The many types of mulches available fall into one of these two categories. Organic mulches, as the name suggests, are substances that come from the plant world, and that decompose over time. As they decompose, they release nutrients into the soil. They increase the soil's capacity to retain water, making it more absorbent and porous, which aids roots growth. Organic mulches include garden compost, bark, bark chips, leaf mold, grass clippings, straw and hay. Inorganic mulch provides protection to the top soil layer, and adds beauty to the garden. We can use more than one inorganic mulch while landscaping the garden. While these materials have the advantage of being long-lasting, once laid, they restrict access to the soil, making it difficult to add any matter to it. Types of Organic Mulch:

Leaves Amongst the types of mulch, leaves are the most popular and freely available option. When the trees in your garden shed their leaves during the fall, collect them. If they are whole, cut them up using a lawnmower or shredder. When the leaves decompose, they give the soil an absorbent porous structure. Dry leaves are used as a winter coverage to shield plants from freezing. They are usually removed when spring arrives. Grass Clippings Called grass or lawn clipping, they can be collected when you mow your lawn. For those who feel that they appear unaesthetic, they can be put to use in a vegetable garden, where their appearance will not be a concern. Some people mix in tree leaves or rough compost to prevent them from getting compressed into a mat. This prevents smelly putrefaction during decomposition. They must be utilized immediately, or dried thoroughly to avoid rotting and excessive heat generation. They are great to work with as they spread easily around even small plants because of their fine texture. Fresh green grass clippings are high in nitrate content, and when used as mulch enrich the soil with it. Peat Moss From the types of mulch available, peat moss or sphagnum peat is a good option due to its longevity and convenience. It lowers the Ph level of the soil surface, and is thus useful for acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons and blueberries. Bark Chips Bark chips and composted bark mulch is a type of mulch that provide a beautiful finish to the garden.

It takes longer to decompose than grass or leaves, and may last for between one to three years based on the size of the chips. There are different chip sizes available, and the smaller chips are easier to spread around. They are perfect to be used around trees, shrubs, and perennial gardens. Spread the mulch an inch or two away from the trunk of a tree. Wood Chips If you use wood chips, use at least 2 to 4 inches of it. If you use fresh wood chips, they are most beneficial when mixed with a lot of leaves. Make enquirers to find out if wood chips collected from the removal of street trees are being made available free to residents. Similar to bark chips, they are used most often under trees and shrubs. They are also frequently used to mulch trails because of their easy availability and low cost. Straw Mulch or Field or Salt Hay Straw mulch, field hay and salt hay, all have the similar properties of being untidy, lightweight, and a good winter covering. Usually sold in bales, these mulches are used in vegetable gardens where finesse is not a concern. They are good mulches to use, but the may contain weed seeds. Types of inorganic mulch are slate, stones, brick chips, plastic, and rubber mulch. Rock and gravel are a favorite in landscaping, and provide good coverage. Heat retained by rocks also lend warmth to the soil which is good for growing. Plastic mulch is used in the form of plastic sheets, with cutaways for the plants to grow through. Rubber mulch is made from recycled rubber tires. Organic mulches can sometimes have a negative effect on plants if the bacteria and fungi that decompose the mulch soaks up nitrogen from the surrounding soil, thus depriving the other plants. Organic mulches can also get compressed and form a mat over the soil, which cuts off the soil from water and air. Mulching is not only one of the best things you can do for your plants, it is also a wonderful way to recycle. Turn all that to prune, trim and cut from your garden into compost, and use it to nourish the soil.

TIPS
Mulching is a practice of covering the soil in your garden with a layer of organic or inorganic substance. The primary purpose of this activity is to prevent the top soil from eroding. Mulching protects the soil from adverse climatic conditions. During the rains, it prevents the soil from becoming compact, and during the heat, it preserves the moisture in the soil. Among the other benefits of mulching are that it discourages weed growth and helps maintain an even soil temperature. It is a must for people who value a neat, manicured garden. It prevents the garden from getting mucky and keeps fruits and vegetables clean.

There are several types of mulches which are classified into organic and inorganic mulches. When you decide to lay mulch, assess what is most important to you. If it is the appearance of your lawn, you can pick inorganic mulches such as slate, stones, brick chips, and plastic. These inorganic mulches are great tools to use to achieve creativelandscaping. Additionally, these materials are also long-lasting. However, once they are laid, they pretty much cut off access to the soil, and then it is difficult to add any matter to improve the soil quality. Organic mulches serve the dual purpose of protecting the soil and providing nutrients to it. The mulch slowly decomposes and releases organic matter which helps keep the soil loose. This allows water to seep through more easily, aids root growth, and also makes the soil more absorbent. Organic mulches include garden compost, bark, bark chips, leaf mold, grass clippings, straw and hay. While the process is very simple, here are some tips for mulching that will help guide you.

While growing new plants, sheet mulches, plastic sheeting or woven ground cover fabric are the most beneficial to use. If their appearance puts you off, know that they can be disguised with a gravel or bark covering. Another concern is moisture, but rain or irrigation water runs across the sheets, and enters the soil at the edges and planting holes. Homemade mulch from materials in your own yard, include lawn clippings that are perfect in a vegetable garden where their appearance will not be a concern. They must be utilized immediately to avoid heating and rotting. They are great to work with as they spread easily around even small plants due to their fine texture.

Another cheap option are newspapers, which work wonders to control weed growth. One must only use pages with black ink on them, as color dyes used may be harmful to the soil microflora and fauna. To prevent the paper from blowing away, use 3 or 4 sheets together and weigh them down with any other mulch material. A popular mulch option are leaves, which should ideally be collected in the fall. They can be shredded using a lawnmower or shredder. When leaves decompose, they give the soil an absorbent porous structure. Compost is also a great mulch. Bark chips and composted bark mulch provide a lawn with a neat finish, and benefit the soil. Hay and straw work are good options for a vegetable garden, though they may contain weed seeds. Seaweed mulch, ground corn cobs, and pine needles are other types of organic mulch. Pine needles are known to increase the acidity of the soil, so use them accordingly. When using mulches in your vegetable or flower garden, the right time to apply them is after spring, once the soil has warmed. If the soil is cool and wet, seeds germinate slowly and they also may decay. Also de-weed the soil properly before mulching, removing even weed roots. Sufficiently water new plants before mulching. If you apply mulch with the objective to keep the ground warm through the winter, the right time to do it is late in the fall, before it begins to get really cold. However, time it so that you start the process after the ground freezes, or the cozy environment you create may attract rodents searching for a warm home for the winter. If you live in a place that receives snow in the winter, use loose material such as straw, hay, or pine boughs, so that the plants will not get pressed under the weight of snow and ice. If you are wondering how much mulch you need, first start by measuring the area you need to cover. The amount of mulch you will need is the length x breadth x height (layer of mulch). For example, if you wish to cover an area 10 feet x 10 feet with 3 inches of mulch, you would need 25 cubic feet of mulch. Inorganic mulch should be at least 2 inches thick. Mulch is usually commercially available, bagged or bulk at garden centers. For those who need large volumes, bulk falls cheaper. For those who need limited amounts, bagged mulch is easier to tackle and store.

Mulching is not only one of the best things you can do for your plants, it is also a wonderful way to recycle. Turn all that to prune, trim and cut from your garden into compost, and use it to nourish the soil.