American Cooking - The Northwest - Time-Life Foods of The World Recipes - Unknown

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Jmerican Gooking; Ce thwest
. Coods o the 'orld
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Jmerican Gooking Ce thwest
Gontents
Soups and Appetizers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Salads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0
Shellfsh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6
Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 3
Poultry and Game Birds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3
Meat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4
Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 4
Bread and Pancakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Pickles and Preserves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 06
Desserts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 4
Recipe Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 43
Illustrations :
How to Shape a Swedish Cherry Twist . . . . . . . 1 03
How to Shape a Cinnamon Wreath . . . . . . . . . . 1 04
coods o the 'orld
TIME-LIFE BOOKS, ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA
1970 Time-Life Books Inc. All rights reserved. No parr of this book may be
reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including
information storage and retrieval devices or systems, without prior written
permission from the publisher, except that brief passages may be quoted for
reviews. Fifth priming. Revised 1982. Printed in U.S.A. Published simulta
neously in Canada.
IOUII A 6111111111
Corn and Clam Chowder
To serve 6 to 8
V cup diced lean salt pork
1 Y cups fnely chopped onions
1 teaspoon fnely chopped garlic
1 medium-sized boiling potato,
peeled and cut into ;-inch dice
(about 1 cup)
2 cups water
1 8 small hard-shell clams, shucked
and drained, with thei r liquor
reserved (about cup ) , or
substitute 18 canned medium
sized clams with their j uices
2 cups light cream
1 Y cups fresh corn kernels, cut
from about 3 large ears of corn,
or substitute 1 Y cups canned
or frozen corn kernels, drained
and thoroughly defrosted if
frozen
Y teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon salt
V teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter,
softened
Y teaspoon paprika
2 tablespoons fnely chopped parsley
Fry the pork dice in a heavy 2- to 3-quart casserole over high heat for
about 3 minutes, turning them about with a slotted spoon. When a thin
flm of fat covers the bottom of the casserole, stir in the onions and garlic
and reduce the heat to moderate. Stirring frequently, cook for about 5
minutes, or until the pork dice and onions are a golden brown. Watch
carefully for any sign of burning and regulate the heat accordingly.
Stir in the diced
p
otato and water, and bring to a boil over high heat.
Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for about 1 5 minutes,
until the potatoes are tender but not falling apart. Add the clams and
their liquid, the cream, corn and thyme, and continue to simmer for 2 or
3 minutes longer; do not allow the chowder to come to a boil . Stir in the
salt, pepper and butter, taste for seasoning, and serve at once, sprinkled
with paprika and parsley.
2
Bean Chowder
To serve 8 to 10
2 quarts water
2 cups ( 1 pound) dried Great
Northern, marrow or pea beans
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups fnely chopped onions
Y cup fnely chopped celery
2 teaspoons fnely chopped garlic
6 cups chicken stock, fresh or
canned
2 twelve-ounce smoked ham hocks
6 medium-sized frm ripe tomatoes,
peeled, seeded and fnely chopped
(see lingcod with garlic and
tomatoes, page 3 1 ), or substitute
2 cups chopped drained canned
tomatoes
2 whole cloves
1 medium-sized bay leaf
Freshly ground black pepper
Bring the water to a boil over high heat in a heavy 6- to 8- quart casserole.
Drop in the beans and boil them briskly for 2 minutes. (The water should
cover the beans by at least 1 inch; add more if necessary. ) Turn of the
heat and let the beans soak for 1 hour, then drain them through a sieve
into a bowl and return the beans to the casserole. Add 4 cups of the cook
ing liquid to the beans.
In a heavy 10- inch skillet, warm the oil over moderate heat until a
light haze forms above it. Add the onions, celery and garlic; stirring fre
quently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft but not brown.
With a rubber spatula, scra
p
e the entire contents of the skillet into the
casserole. Add the chicken stock, ham hocks, tomatoes, cloves, bay leaf
and a few grindings of
p
epper. Mix well and bring to a boil over high
heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan partially, and simmer for 2
hours, or until the ham is tender and shows no resistance when
p
ierced
deeply with the point of a thin skewer or sharp knife.
Transfer the ham hocks to a plate and, when they are cool enough to
handle, remove the skin, fat and bones. Cut the meat into Y-inch cubes
and set it aside. Pick out and discard the bay leaf, then with the back of a
s
p
oon rub the contents of the casserole through a fne sieve into a deep
bowl, or puree the mixture through the fnest blade of a food mill. Skim
as much fat as
p
ossible from the surface of the sou
p
; taste for seasoning.
Return the soup to the casserole, add the cubed ham and bring to a
simmer over moderate heat, stirring from time to time. Serve at once from
a heated tureen or in i ndividual soup plates.
3
Dungeness Crabmeat Bisque
To sere 6
4 tablespoons buter
cup fnely chopped onions
cup fnely chopped celery
2 tablespoons four
teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon salt
Y teaspoon ground white pepper
2 cps milk
2 cups heavy cream
1 pound (about 2 cups ) freshly
cooked or frozen Dungeness
crabmeat, defrosted if frozen,
drained and picked over to
remove all bits of shell and
cartilage
;.cup pale dry sherry
In a heavy 2- to 3 -quart saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat.
When the foam begins to subside, add the onions and celery and, stirring
frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft but not brown.
Add the four, paprika, salt and pepper, and mix well. Then, stirring the
mixture constantly with a wire whisk, pour i n the milk and cream in a
slow, thin stream and cook briskly until the mixture comes to a boil and
is smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 3 minutes to re
move any taste of raw four.
Stir in the crabmeat and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes longer to heat it
through. Add 1 tablespoon of the sherry, taste and add as much of the re
maining sherry as you like. Serve the bisque at once from a heated tureen
or in individual soup plates.
Cold Lentil Soup
To sere 8 to 10
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup fnely chopped onions
2 quarts chicken stock, fresh or
canned
2 cups ( 1 pound) dried lentils
1 medium-sized frm ripe tomato,
chopped and pureed through a
sieve or food mill, or substitute
cp canned tomato puree
teaspoon crumbled dried basil
2 hard-cooked eggs, fnely chopped
cup fnely sliced or chopped red
radishes
cup fnely chopped scallions
(optional )
In a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat.
When the foam begins to subside, add the onions and garlic and, stirring
frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent
but not brown. Stir in the chicken stock, lentils, pureed tomato, basil and
4
a few grindings of pepper, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the
heat to low and simmer partially covered for 1 hour.
Rub the soup through a fne sieve into a bowl with the back of a spoon,
or put it through the fnest blade of a food mill . Cool to room temper
ature, cover with foil or plastic wrap, and refrigerate the soup for at least
2 hours, or until it is thoroughly chilled.
To serve, ladle the soup into a chilled tureen or individual soup plates.
Mound the chopped hard-cooked eggs, radishes and scallions ( if used ) at
tractively in separate bowls and present them with the soup.
Spinach Soup
To serve 6 to 8
2 quarts chicken stock, fresh or
canned
2 pounds fresh spinach, washed
and coarsely chopped
Y teaspoon fnely chopped garlic
Y teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
teapoon white pepper
2 hard-cooked eggs, fnely chopped
In a 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, bring the chicken
stock to a boil over high heat. Add the spinach, reduce the heat to low,
and simmer partially covered for 7 to 8 minutes. Then pour the contents
of the pan into a sieve set over a large bowl. Press down hard on the spin
ach with the back of a wooden spoon to extract all of its j uices. Set the
stock and the drained spinach aside separately.
Melt the butter in the saucepan and stir in the garlic and onions. Cook
over moderate heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently, until the on
ions are soft and translucent. Add the reserved chicken-spinach stock and
bring to a boil, then stir in the spinach, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Par
tially cover the pan and simmer the soup over low heat for about 5
minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste for seasoning and serve at once from
a heated tureen or individual soup bowls, garnished with chopped egg.
5
Mushroom-and-Potato Soup
To serve 8 to 10
1 Y pounds frm fresh mushrooms,
wiped with a dampened towel,
trimmed, and cut lengthwise,
including the stems, into Y
inch-thick slices
6 cps chicken stock, fresh or
canned
6 small boiling potatoes (about
1 Y pounds ) , peeled and cut into
Y-inch slices
1 teaspoon salt
Y cp fnely chopped celery
Y cup fnely chopped scallions,
including the green tops
2 tablespoons fnely chopped fresh
parsley
1 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon fnely cut fresh dill
leaves
In a heavy 4- to 5-quart enameled or stainless-steel casserole, melt 4 table
spoons of the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to sub
side, add the mushrooms and onions, and stir until they are evenly coated
with the butter. Reduce the heat to low, partially cover the casserole, and
simmer for 20 minutes.
Stir in the chicken stock, potato slices and salt, and bring the mixture
to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and
simmer for about 25 minutes longer, or until the potato slices are tender
but still intact.
Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a heavy 8-
to 1 0-inch skillet. When the foam begins to subside, add the celery, scal
lions and parsley and, stirring frequently, cook uncovered over low heat
for about 15 minutes, until the celery is tender but not brown.
In a small bowl, combine the sour cream with about Y cup of the
simmering mushroom soup stock and mix well. Stirring constantly, pour
the sour-cream mixture into the skillet gradually and bring the mixture to
a boil over high heat.
Add the entire contents of the skillet to the mushroom soup and stir
together gently but thoroughly. Taste for seasoning. Then pour the soup
into a heated tureen or individual soup plates, sprinkle with the dill and
a few grindings of pepper, and serve at once.
6
Shad-Roe Pate
To make about 2Y cups
2 pairs shad roe ( about 1 Y
pounds )
Y cup plus 2 tablespoons four
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons fnely chopped onions
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon
j uice
Y teaspoon celery seeds
Y teaspoon crumbled dried
marj oram
tarragon
Y teaspoon crumbled dried basil
1 teaspoon salt
Wash the roe under cold running water and pat them completely dry
with paper towels. With scissors or a small, sharp knife, slit the mem
branes connecting the pairs of roe. Roll the roe gently in Y cup of four
to coat them evenly, then shake gently to remove the excess four.
In a heavy 8-inch skillet, melt the butter with the oil over moderate
heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the roe and cook them for
about 6 minutes on each side, turning them with a slotted spatula and reg
ulating the heat so that they color richly without burning. Transfer the
roe to a bowl and, with the back of a table fork, mash them to a smooth
but granular paste.
Add the onions to the fat remaining in the skillet and, stirring fre
quently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but
not brown. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of four and mix well .
Then, stirring the mixture constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the
cream in a slow, thin stream and cook over high heat until the sauce
comes to a boil, thickens heavily and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low
and simmer for about 3 minutes. Beat in the lemon j uice, garlic, celery
seeds, marj oram, tarragon, basil and salt, and taste for seasoning.
Add the sauce to the mashed roe and, with a wooden spoon, beat until
the mixture is smooth. Cool to room temperature, cover tightly with foil
or plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or until thoroughly
chilled. Serve the shad-roe pate as a frst course, accompanied by crisp
crackers or warm toast.
7
Marinated Fiddle head Ferns
To serve 10 as a frst course or 8 as
a salad
3 cups water
S tablespoons wine vinegar
juice
cup vegetable oil
2 medium-sized celery stalks,
trimed of all leaves and fnely
chopped
1 teaspoon coriander seeds,
1 teaspoon fennel seeds and 6
whole black peppercorns,
wrapped together in cheesecloth
1 teaspoons salt
3 cups fresh fddlehead ferns,
thoroughly washed and trimmed,
or substitute two 10-ounce
packages frozen fddlehead ferns,
thoroughly defrosted and drained
In a 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine the water,
vinegar, lemon j uice, oil, celery, the cheesecloth bag of coriander, fennel
and peppercorns, and the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce
the heat to low. Stir in the fddleheads and simmer partially covered for
15 to 20 minutes, or until the ferns are tender.
Remove and discard the bag of coriander, fennel and peppercorns.
Drain the fddleheads and celery in a sieve or colander and place them in
a serving bowl . Cool to room temperature, cover with plastic wrap and
refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.
Marinated Oysters
To serve 4 as a frst course
2 dozen fresh medium-sized
shucked oysters and their liquor
1 medium-sized onion, thinly sliced
in rings (about cup)
1 lemon, sliced crosswise into
paper-thin slices
cup white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon mixed pickling spice
1 teaspoon salt
Y teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
Y cup fnely chopped fresh parsley
Y cup olive oil
Place the shucked oysters and their liquor in a 1 0- to 1 2-inch skillet and
cook uncovered over moderate heat for 2 or 3 minutes, until the oysters
are plump and their edges begin to curl . Immediately pour the contents
of the pan into a fne sieve set over a large bowl and let the oysters drain.
Set the liquid aside. Arrange the oysters in a glass or enameled dish j ust
8
large enough to hold them in one layer, and scatter the onion and lemon
slices evenly over the top.
In a 1 - to 1 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine the
vinegar, drained oyster liquor and pickling spice, and bring to a boil
over high heat. Then reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered about
8 minutes. Strain the mixture through a fne sieve, discard the spices, and
let the liquid cool to room temperature before pouring it over the oysters.
Sprinkle them with the salt, pepper, parsley and olive oil, cover tightly
with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for two days before serving.
Marinated Mushrooms
1 pound frm fresh mushroom caps,
each about 1 inch in diameter
1 cup dry white wine
1 lemon
1 cups olive oil
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
2 teaspoons salt
Y teapoon freshly ground black
pepper
1 tablespoon very fnely chopped
garlic
3 whole cloves
parsley
Make the marinated mushrooms at least 2 days before you intend to serve
them. Wipe the mushroom caps with a dampened kitchen towel and
drop them into a deep bowl . Pour in the wine and turn the mushrooms
about with a spoon to coat them evenly. Cover with foil or plastic wrap
and marinate in the refrigerator for about 1 hour.
With a small, sharp knife, score the lemon by cutting V-shaped
grooves, about Y inch wide and Y inch deep, from one end of the
lemon to the other and spaced about inch apart. Then slice the lemon
crosswise into V-inch-thick rounds.
In a mixing bowl, beat the olive oil, Tabasco sauce, salt and pepper to
gether with a wire whisk. Add the onions and garlic and stir well, then
drop in the lemon slices, cloves and bay leaf. Drain the wine from the
mushroom caps and in its place add the oil mixture. Turn the caps about
gently with a spoon until they are evenly coated.
Transfer the entire contents of the bowl to a wide-mouthed 1 -quart jar
or crock equipped with a tight-ftting lid. Cover and refrigerate for at
least 2 days. Sprinkle with parsley before serving. The mushrooms can
safely be kept in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 weeks.
9
Lentil Salad
To serve 6
SALAD
2 teaspoons salt
1 cup dried lentils
Y cup fnely chopped onions
Y cup fnely chopped scallions,
i ncluding 2 inches of the green
tops
parsley
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Y teaspoon W orcestershire sauce
Y teaspoon Tabasco sauce
pepper
6 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
In a heavy 2- to 3-quart saucepan, bring 1 quart of water and 1 teaspoon
of the salt to a boil over high heat. Drop i n the lentils, reduce the heat to
low, and simmer partially covered for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the len
tils are tender but still intact. Drain them in a sieve or colander, spread
them on a double thickness of paper towels and pat them completely dry.
Transfer the lentils to a large serving bowl and stir in the chopped on
ions, scallions, 2 tablespoons of parsley and the garlic.
Combine the vinegar, Worcestershire, Tabasco, pepper and the remain
ing teaspoon of salt in a small bowl and mix well with a wire whisk. Beat
ing constantly with the whisk, pour in the oil in a thin stream and continue
to beat until the dressing is smooth. Pour the dressing over the lentil mix
ture and, with a fork, toss the salad ingredients together gently but
thoroughly. Cover tightly with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate the len
til salad for at least 30 minutes.
GARNISH
1 small red onion, peeled, cut
crosswise into Y- inch-thick
slices and separated into rings
3 hard-cooked eggs, cut crosswise
into Y- inch-thick slices
parsley
Just before serving, stir the salad briefy and arrange the onion rings
and egg slices attractively on top. Sprinkle the salad with the remaining 2
tablespoons of parsley and serve at once.
10
Mayonnaise
To make about 1 ; cups
3 egg yolks
; teaspoon dry mustard
; teaspoon salt
Y teaspoon ground white pepper
1 ; cups olive oil or vegetable oil
or a combination of both
1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon
j uice or wine vinegar
2 tablespoons boiling water
(optional )
Warm a large mixing bowl in hot water, dry it quickly but thoroughly,
and drop in the egg yolks. With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater,
beat the yolks vigorously for about 2 minutes, until they thicken and
cling to the beater. Stir in the mustard, salt and white pepper. Beat in ;
cup of the oil, ; teaspoon at a time; make sure each addition is ab
sorbed before adding more. By the time ; cup of oil has been beaten in,
the mayonnaise should have the consistency of very thick cream.
Beating constantly, pour in the remai ning cup of oil in a slow, thin
stream. Stir i n the l emon j uice or vinegar and taste for seasoning. To
make the mayonnaise creamier and lessen the danger of separating, beat
in the boiling water, 1 tablespoon at a time. Cover tightly and refrigerate
until ready to use. The mayonnaise can safely be kept in the refrigerator
for approximately 2 weeks.
Blue-Cheese Salad Dressing
To make about ; cup
3 tablespoons blue cheese, softened
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 small garlic clove, peeled and
fnely chopped
6 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable
oil or a combination of both
; teaspoon salt
Crumble the blue cheese into a small bowl, add the cream, and mash and
stir the mixture i nto a smooth paste with a fork.
Drop the chopped garlic into a separate bowl and, with the back of a
wooden spoon, crush it to a puree. Add the oil, vinegar and salt, and beat
vigorously with a wire whisk until the mixture is smooth. Add the blue
cheese mixture, a tablespoon at a time. When the ingredients are
thoroughly combined, taste for seasoning and serve.
1 1
Green Bean Salad
To serve 4 to 6
1 Y teaspoons salt
1 pound fresh green string beans,
trimmed and washed
Y teaspoon dry mustard
Y cup olive oil
12 frm ripe cherry tomatoes
1large red onion, peeled and cut
crosswise into Y-inch-thick
slices and separated into rings
Bring 3 quarts of water and Y teaspoon of salt to a boil in a large en
ameled or stainless-steel pan. Drop in the beans and boil briskly, un
covered, for about 1 0 minutes, or until they are tender but still slightly
resistant to the bite. Drain the beans and transfer them to a serving bowl.
With a wire whisk, beat the vinegar, remaining salt, mustard and pep
per together i n a small bowl . Still whisking, slowly pour in the oil ; con
tinue to whisk until the mixture is smooth. Pour the dressing over the
beans, and add the tomatoes and onions. Toss the ingredients together
lightly with a wooden spoon, then cover the bowl with plastic wrap and re
frigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.
Oriental Salad
To serve 4
Y cup raw long-grain white rice,
boiled, drained and cooled
A 6-ounce can fat anchovy fllets,
drained, rinsed under cold water
Y cp fnely chopped scallions
Y cup fnely chopped pimiento
1 frm ripe tomato, sliced Y inch
thick and ct into Y-inch dice
Y teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons olive oil
Chilled crisp lettuce leaves
Place the rice, chopped anchovies, scallions, pimiento and tomato in a
serving bowl and toss together thoroughly with a fork.
With a wire whisk, beat the vinegar, mustard, salt and a few grindings
of pepper in a small bowl until the mustard has dissolved.
A
dd the oil
gradually and continue to beat until the dressing is smooth and thick.
Taste for seasoning, pour the dressing over the rice mixture, and stir with
a fork until the ingredients are well combined.
12
For each serving, arrange several lettuce leaves to form a cup on a
chilled plate and spoon the salad into the lettuce cup.
If you prefer, you may pack the salad frmly i nto a 2-cup mold, cover
tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 hours, or until thoroughly
chilled. Just before serving, remove the plastic wrap and place an in
verted plate over the mold. Grasping plate and mold together frmly,
quickly turn them over. The molded salad should slide out easily. Sur
round with the lettuce and serve at once.
Potato Salad with Bacon Bits
To serve 6 to 8
3 pounds medium-sized boiling
potatoes ( about 9), scrbbed and
unpeeled
pound bacon, cut into -inch
dice (about 1 cps)
Y cup white wine or cider vinegar
Y cup water
teaspoon salt
pepper
1 teaspoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons fnely cut fresh chives
Drop the potatoes into enough lightly salted boiling water to cover them
completely, and boil briskly, uncovered, until they show only slight re
sistance when pierced with the point of a sharp knife. Do not overcook.
Drain the potatoes in a colander, peel and cut them i nto Y-inch-thick
slices. Set aside in a large bowl and cover tightly with foi l.
In a heavy 8-inch skillet, fry the bacon over moderate heat until brown
and crisp. With a slotted spoon, transfer the dice to paper towels to
drai n. Add the onions to the fat remaining in the pan and stir over mod
erate heat until they are soft and golden. Add the vinegar, water, salt,
pepper and mustard and bring the sauce to a boil . Pour the hot sauce over
the potatoes, turning the slices with a rubber spatula to coat them evenly.
Stir in the bacon and chives and taste for seasoning. Serve at once.
1 3
King Crab Sala Ring
To sere 8
2 cups water
! cup fnely chopped shallots
2 cups fresh watercress leaves,
tightly packed
} cup fnely chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons crumbled dried
tarragon
4 teaspoons unfavored gelatin
3 egg yolks
4 teaspoons dry mustard
2 teaspoons salt
! teaspoon ground white pepper
1 } cups olive oil
2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
juice
1} pounds freshly cooked king
crab meat, cut into l-inch chunks,
or substitute 1 } pounds
frozen or canned king-crab meat,
cut into l-inch chunks
} cup fnely chopped celery
Bibb or Boston lettuce (garnish)
Watercress (garnish)
Bring 1 } cups of the water to a boil in a small saucepan, drop in the
shallots, and cook briskly for 2 minutes. Stir in the watercress, parsley
and tarragon, and boil for 1 minute longer. Drain the herbs through a
fne sieve, pressing down hard with the back of a spoon to extract all
their j uices, and discard the j uices and cooking water. Chop the drained
herbs fne with a knife, then puree them through a food mill into a bowl .
Pour the remaining } cup of water into a heatproof measuring cup,
sprinkle in the gelatin, and let it soften for 2 or 3 minutes. Then set the
cup in a skillet of simmering water and, stirring constantly, cook over
low heat until the gelatin dissolves completely. Remove the cup from the
heat and let the gelatin cool to room temperature.
Warm a large mixing bowl i n hot water, dry it quickly but thoroughly,
and drop i n the egg yolks. With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beat
er, beat the yolks vigorously for about 2 minutes, until they thicken and
cling to the beater. Stir in the mustard, salt and white pepper. Beat in }
cup of the oil, } teaspoon at a time; make sure each addition is ab
sorbed before addi ng more. By the time the } cup of oil has been beaten
in, the mayonnaise should be the consistency of very thick cream. Beating
constantly, pour in the remaining oil in a slow, thin stream. Stir i n the
vinegar and lemon j uice, and taste for seasoning. Then i ncorporate the
herb puree and mix i n the cooled but still fuid gelatin.
Fold in the crabmeat and celery thoroughly, and ladle the mixture into
a 1-quart ring mold, spreading it and smoothing the top with a spatula.
Cover with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or
until the salad i s thoroughly chilled and frm to the touch.
14
Just before serving, unmold the salad ring in the following fashion :
Run a long, thin knife around the edges of the mold to loosen the sides
and dip the bottom briefy in hot water. Invert a chilled serving plate on
top of the mold and, grasping plate and mold together frmly, turn over.
Rap the plate on a table and the mold should slide out easily.
Arrange lettuce leaves around the mold and fll the center of the ring
with watercress . Serve at once. If you like, you may further garnish the
salad with chunks of cold crabmeat.
Great Northern Bean Salad
To serve 1 0
2 cups dried Great Northern beans,
or 5 cps canned white beans
2 teaspoons prepared mustard
1 teaspoon salt
pepper
1 cup coarsely chopped celery
1 cup fnely chopped sweet gherkin
pickles
1 cup fnely chopped red onions
1 cup sour cream
2 cups freshly made mayonnaise
If you plan to use canned beans, drain them of all their canning liquid,
wash them thoroughly under cold running water, drain again and pat dry
with paper towels. If you plan to cook the beans yourself, place them in a
large saucepan and pour in enough cold water to cover them by at least 2
inches. Bring to a boil, let them boil for 2 minutes, then turn of the heat
and let the beans soak for 1 hour. Bring back to a boil, lower the heat, par
tially cover the pan, and simmer as slowly as possible for 1 Y hours, or
until the beans are tender but still intact. Drain the beans i n a fne sieve
and place them in a large bowl .
With a wire whisk, beat the garlic, mustard, salt, pepper and vinegar to
gether in a small bowl. Add the oil gradually and continue to beat until
the dressing is smooth and thick. Pour over the beans, cover with plastic
wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
Taste for seasoning. Just before serving, gently fold in the celery, pick
les, onions, sour cream and mayonnaise.
1 5
Deviled Dungeness Crab
To serve4
2 tablespoons butter, softened, plus
1 2 tablespoons butter, melted and
cooled
Y cup heavy cream
1 Y teaspoons dry mustard
Ground hot red pepper ( cayenne )
Y teaspoon salt
1 pound ( about 2 cups ) freshly
cooked or frozen Dungeness
crabmeat, defrosted if frozen,
drained and thoroughly picked
over to remove all bits of
cartilage, then cut into Y-inch
bits
1 cup fnely chopped celery
2 tablespoons fnely chopped green
bell pepper
parsley
1 Y cups coarse crumbs made from
unsalted soda crackers spread
between 2 strips of wax paper
and crushed with a rolling pin
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . With a pastry brush, spread the 2 tablespoons
of softened butter evenly over the bottom and sides of a 1 Y-quart
baking-serving dish.
Combine the cooled, melted butter, the cream, mustard, a few grains
of red pepper and the salt i n a deep bowl and stir until the mustard has dis
solved. Mix i n the crabmeat, celery, onions, green pepper and parsley,
then add the crumbs and toss the ingredients gently but thoroughly.
Ladle the crab mixture into the buttered dish and smooth the top with
a spatula. Bake in the upper third of the oven for 30 minutes, or until the
top is golden brown. Serve at once, directly from the baking dish.
1 6
Hot Crab Sandwich
To make 2 open-face sandwiches
Y cup four
;teaspoon plus Y teaspoon dry
mustard
1 cup milk
1 ;cups (V pound) freshly
grated Cheddar cheese
1 teaspoon W orcestershire sauce
Y teaspoon ground hot red pepper
( cayenne )
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon freshly made
mayonnaise (page 1 1 ), or
substitute bottled unsweetened
mayonnaise
6 ounces fresh or frozen Dungeness
crabmeat, drained and picked
over to remove all bits of shell
and cartilage
4 slices hot toast made from
homemade-type white bread
trimmed of all crusts
Preheat the broiler to its highest setting. In a heavy 1 -quart saucepan,
melt the butter over moderate heat. When the foam subsides, add the
four and ; teaspoon of the dry mustard and mix together to a smooth
paste. Stirring constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the milk in a slow,
thin stream and cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil, thick
ens heavily and i s smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 or 3
minutes to remove the taste of four.
Add the grated cheese, ; teaspoon of the Worcestershire sauce, the
red pepper and salt, and whisk constantly until the cheese melts com
pletely. Remove the pan from the heat, and taste for seasoning.
Combine the mayonnaise, the remaining ; teaspoon of Worcester
shire and Y teaspoon of mustard i n a deep bowl . Mix well, then add the
crabmeat and turn the crab about until it is thoroughly coated. Spread the
crab mixture smoothly over the toast, dividir1g it evenly among the slices.
Place two slices of toast side by side on each of two ovenproof plates
or shallow baking-serving dishes and pour the cheese sauce over them.
Broil 4 inches from the heat for about 1 minute, or until the top is del
icately browned. Serve at once.
1 7
Corn and Clam Sou/e
To serve 6
1 cup freshly shucked or canned
minced clams, drained, with
liquor reserved
;. to % cup milk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 tablespoons all-purpose four
5 egg yolks
2 tablespoons fnely chopped
pimiento
1 teaspoon salt
Y teaspoon cayenne
6 eggwhites
1 ;. cups corn kernels, cut from
about 3 large ears, or substitute
1 ;. cups canned or frozen
kernels, drained and thoroughly
defrosted if frozen
With a large, sharp knife, chop the clams as fne as possible and set them
aside. Strain the clam liquor through a fne sieve lined with a double thick
ness of cheesecloth. Measure the liquor, add enough milk to make 1 cup,
then pour into a small saucepan and place over moderate heat. When bub
bles appear around the edge of the pan, remove from the heat.
Preheat the oven to 400 . With a pastry brush, coat the bottom and
sides of a 2-quart soufe dish with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Melt the re
maining butter in a heavy 1 ;- to 2- quart saucepan, add the onions, and
cook over moderate heat for about 3 minutes, until the onions are soft
but not brown. Of the heat, mix in 4 tablespoons of the four and stir the
mixture to a smooth paste. Add the lukewarm milk-and-clam-liquor mix
ture all at once and beat vigorously with a whisk. Cook over moderate
heat, whisking constantly, until the sauce is smooth and very thick. Re
move the pan from the heat and, one at a time, beat in the egg yolks. Stir
in the pimiento, salt, cayenne and chopped clams, and taste for seasoning.
In a separate bowl, preferably one of unlined copper, beat the egg
whites with a large whisk or a rotary or electric beater until they are sti f
enough to form unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted out of
the bowl. Stir 3 heaping tablespoons of the whites into the clam sauce.
Toss the corn with the remaining tablespoon of four and stir it into the
sauce. With a rubber spatula, gently but thoroughly fold in the remain
ing egg whites until no white streaks show. Be careful not to overfold.
Pour the mixture into the soufe dish and smooth the top with a spatula.
Reduce the oven heat to 3 7 5o and bake the soufe undisturbed in the
center of the oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until it is pufed and lightly
brown on top. Serve at once.
1 8
Razor-Clam Cakes
To make about 1 0 cakes
2 eggs
1 teaspoon dry mustard
Y teaspoon crumbled thyme
2 or 3 drops Tabasco or Pickapeppa
sauce
Y teaspoon salt
2 cups fnely chopped fresh, frozen
or canned razor clams, thoroughly
drained
cup fnely chopped fresh parsley
4 cups soft fresh crumbs made from
homemade-type white bread,
pulverized in a blender or fnely
shredded with a fork
1 lemon cut into 4 or 8 wedges
In a deep bowl, beat the eggs, mustard, thyme, Tabasco or Pickapeppa,
salt and a few grindings of pepper together with a fork or wire whisk
until the ingredients are well combined. Stir in the clams, onions and pars
ley, then 2 Y cups of the crumbs. Taste for seasoning. Divide the razor
clam mixture into 10 equal portions and pat and shape each portion into
a round cake about 3 i nches in diameter and Y inch thick. Spread the re
maining 1 Y cups of bread crumbs on a plate and turn the cakes in the
crumbs to coat both sides evenly. Arrange the clam cakes on wax paper
and refrigerate for at least 1 5 minutes to frm the crumb coating.
Preheat the oven to its lowest setting. Line a large shallow baking dish
with paper towels and place it in the middle of the oven.
In a heavy 10- to 1 2-inch skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter with
1 tablespoon of the oil over moderate heat. When the foam begins to sub
side, place 3 or 4 clam cakes in the hot fat and fry them for 4 to 5 minutes
on each side, or until they are golden brown. Regulate the heat so that the
cakes color evenly without burning, and add the remaining butter and oil
by the tablespoonful when necessary. As the cakes brown, transfer them to
the lined pan and keep them warm in the oven while you fry the rest.
Arrange the clam cakes attractively on a heated platter and serve at
once, accompanied by the lemon wedges.
1 9
Oyster Pan Roast
1 2 tablespoons butter, cut into bits
1 2 medium-sized oysters, shucked,
with Y cup of their liquor
reserved
4 teaspoons W orcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
4 slices hot buttered toast, made
from homemade-type white bread
trimmed of all crusts
In a heavy 8- to 1 0-inch skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat, stir
ring frequently to prevent it from browning. When the foam begins to
subside, stir i n the oyster liquor, Worcestershire and Tabasco, and bring
the mixture to a boil . Add the oysters and turn them about gently with a
wooden spoon for 2 or 3 minutes, or until they plump up and their edges
begin to curl.
Place the toast on four individual heated serving plates and spoon 3 oys
ters onto each slice. Taste the sauce remaining in the skillet for seasoning
and pour it over the oysters, dividing it evenly among them. Serve the oys
ter pan roast at once.
Oysters Meuniere
10 tablespoons butter, cut into bits
1 2 shucked medium-sized oysters,
thoroughly defrosted if frozen
Y teaspoon salt
cup four
4 slices hot white toast, trimmed of
crusts
1 lemon, cut into 4 or 8 wedges
Melt 8 tablespoons of the butter in a small saucepan or skillet set over
low heat, stirring frequently until the butter turns a nutlike brown. Do
not let the butter burn. Remove the pan from the heat and cover to keep
the butter warm.
Spread the oysters on paper towels and pat them completely dry. Then
sprinkle the oysters with the salt and a few grindings of pepper, dip
them one at a time into the four and vigorously shake of the excess. In a
heavy 10- to 1 2-inch skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter
bits with the oil over moderate heat. Add the oysters and, turning them
frequently with a slotted spatula, fry for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until
they are plump and golden and their edges begin to curl .
Immediately, place a slice of toast on each of four heated individual
20
plates. Arrange the fried oysters on top, pour the brown butter over
them, sprinkle them with the parsley and garnish the plates with lemon
wedges. Serve at once.
Deviled Oysters
To serve 4
6 tablespoons butter, melted
1 egg
1 cup soft fresh crumbs made from
homemade-type white bread
2 tablespoons dry mustard
Y cup cold water
24 shucked medium-sized oysters,
thoroughly defrosted if frozen,
then drained and patted dry
Preheat the broiler to its highest setting. With a pastry brush, spread 1
tablespoon of the melted butter evenly over the bottom of a shallow bak
ing-serving dish large enough to hold the oysters in one layer. In a shallow
bowl, beat the egg l ightly with a fork or wire whisk. Spread the crumbs
over a sheet of wax paper and set aside.
Combine the mustard and water in a heavy 6- to 8-inch skillet and stir
to a smooth paste. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, then drop in
the oysters and turn them gently about for 2 to 3 minutes, until they are
evenly coated and their edges begin to curl . With a slotted spoon, trans
fer the oysters to a plate.
When the oysters are cool enough to handle, immerse them one at a
time in the beaten egg, then roll them in the bread crumbs. Arrange the
oysters side by side in the buttered dish and dribble half of the remaining
butter over their tops.
Broil the oysters 3 to 4 inches from the heat for about 30 seconds, until
they brown lightly. Turn them over, pour on the remaining melted butter,
and broi l 30 seconds longer. Serve at once, from the baking dish.
Mignonette Sauce
To make about Y cup
Y cup white distilled vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons white pepper,
preferably freshly ground
shallots
Combine the vinegar, salt and pepper i n a mixing bowl, and beat with a
wire whisk or a spoon until the salt dissolves completely. Stir in the shal
lots, then taste for seasoning and serve at once.
Mignonette sauce is served as an accompaniment to oysters or clams on
the half shell.
2 1
Remoulade Sauce
To make about 1 cup
1 cup mayonnaise, freshly made
(page 1 1 ) or bottled
Y teaspoon anchovy paste
2 medium-sized garlic cloves, peeled
and very fnely chopped
1 tablespoon capers, drained and
rinsed in a sieve under col d water
1 tablespoon fnely chopped fresh
parsley
2 teaspoons fnely cut tarragon, or
substitute 1 teaspoon crumbled
dried tarragon
1 hard-cooked egg, fnely chopped
Combine the mayonnaise, mustard and anchovy paste in a deep bowl,
and beat vigorously with a spoon until they are thoroughly blended. Stir
in the garlic, capers, parsley and tarragon, then gently fold in the chopped
egg. Taste for seasoning.
Remoulade sauce may be served as an accompaniment to oysters or
clams on the half shell.
Spicy Tomato Sauce
To make about 2 Y cups
Y cup olive or vegetable oil or a
combination of the two
juice
2 or 3 drops Tabasco or Pickapeppa
sauce
1 tablespoon dry mustard
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon white pepper, preferably
freshly ground
tomatoes, page 31)
Y cup fnely chopped green bell
peppers
Y cup freshly grated horseradish,
or substitute Y cup bottled
horseradish, thoroughly drained
and squeezed dry in a towel
shallots
Combine the oil, lemon j uice and Tabasco or Pickapeppa sauce in a deep
bowl, and beat vigorously with a wire whisk to blend the ingredients.
Add the mustard, salt and white pepper, and continue beating until
smooth. Then stir i n the tomatoes, green peppers, horseradish and shal
lots, and taste for seasoning. Serve as an accompaniment to cracked crab,
or to oysters or clams on the half shell .
22
Halibut Steaks Stufed with Tomato Sauce
To sere 4
4 large frm ripe tomatoes, peeled,
seeded and coarsely chopped (see
lingcod with garlic and tomatoes,
page 31)
Y teaspoon salt
2 halibut steaks, each about 1 pound
and cut 1 inch thick
8 fat anchovy fllets, drained,
washed under cold running water
and patted dry with paper towels
6 ripe black pitted olives, cut in half
lengthwise
Preheat the oven to 400 . Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a heavy 10-
to 1 2-inch skillet and when the foam subsides add the chopped garlic.
Cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, for about 1 minute, or
until the garlic is soft but not brown. Stir in the tomatoes, raise the heat
to high, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until all of the liquid has evap
orated and the tomatoes have thickened enough to hold their shape loosely
in a spoon. Add the salt and a few grindings of black pepper, then stir in
the chopped parsley. Taste for seasoning.
With the remaining tablespoon of butter and a pastry brush, coat the
bottom and sides of a baking dish j ust large enough to hold one halibut
steak. Lay one steak in the dish and spread it with half of the tomato
sauce. Arrange 4 of the anchovy fllets side by side on top of the sauce,
and scatter half of the sliced black olives over them. Cover with the sec
ond halibut steak, spread with the remaining sauce, and arrange the
remaining anchovies and black olives on top. Bake in the center of the
oven for 1 5 minutes. Then, with two spatulas, transfer the fsh to a hot
serving platter. Pour any sauce remaining in the baking dish over the fsh
and serve at once.
23
Deep-fried Halibut Cheeks
To serve 4
1 pound halibut cheeks
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg
Y cup milk
Y cp fresh crumbs made from
unsalted soda crackers, pulverized
in a blender or fnely crushed
with a rolling pin
Vegetable oil for deep fring
Pat the halibut cheeks completely dry with paper towels and sprinkle
them evenly with the salt. In a small mixing bowl, beat together the egg
and milk. Spread the cracker crumbs out on a sheet of wax paper and
set aside.
Pour vegetable oil into a deep fryer or large, heavy saucepan to a
depth of 3 inches and heat until the oil reaches a temperature of 3 7 5 on
a deep-frying thermometer. Dip the halibut cheeks into the egg-and-milk
mixture, then roll them in the crumbs. Fry the cheeks, 8 to 10 at a time,
for 1 to 2 minutes, turning them with a slotted spoon until they are golden
brown on all sides. As they brown, transfer them to paper towels to
drain and similarly fry and drain the remaining cheeks. Serve at once.
Deep-fried Smelts
To sere 4
1 2 smelts ( about 1 Y pounds ) ,
cleaned, opened fat and boned,
with heads and tails left on (see
page 199 of the Main V oltme)
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup four
1 Y cups soft fresh crumbs made
from homemade-type white
bread, pulverized in a blender or
fnely shredded with a fork
2 eggs
Vegetable oil for deep frying
1 lemon, cut into 4 or 8 wedges
Wash the smelts under cold running water and pat them dry with paper
towels. Sprinkle the fsh evenly with the salt and a few grindings of
pepper. Spread the four and crumbs on two separate plates and beat the
eggs to a froth in a shallow bowl . Dip the smelts, one at a time, in the four
to coat both sides and shake them to remove the excess four. Then im
merse each one in the beaten eggs and roll it in the bread crumbs. Arrange
the smelts side by side on wax paper and refrigerate for at least 1 5 minutes,
to allow the coating to become frm.
24
Pour vegetable oil into a deep fryer or large heavy saucepan to a depth
of 3 inches and heat the oil until it reaches a temperature of 3 75 on a
deep-frying thermometer.
Deep-fry the smelts 3 or 4 at a time, turning them gently about in the
hot oil for about 3 minutes, until they are crisp and golden on all sides.
As they brown, transfer the fsh to paper towels to drain.
Serve the deep-fried smelts while they are still hot, arranging them
attractively on a heated platter or individual plates. Accompany the fsh
with the lemon wedges.
Cucumber and Sour-Cream Sauce
To make about 3 cups
1 large or 2 medium-sized
cucumbers, peeled and cut
crosswise into Y- inch-thick
slices
2 teaspoons salt
1 medium-sized onion, thinly sliced
and separated into rings
1 pint sour cream
2 tablespoons fnely cut fresh dill
leaves
i teaspoon ground hot red pepper
(cayenne)
Place the cucumber slices in a large colander and sprinkle them with salt,
turning the slices about with a spoon to coat them evenly. Let the cucumber
drain for at least 1 5 minutes, then spread the slices out on a double
thickness of paper towels and pat them completely dry. Drop the slices
into a mixing bowl and add the onion rings.
In a small bowl combine the sour cream, dill and hot red pepper, and
mix well. Pour the sour-cream mixture over the cucumbers and onions
and toss together gently but thoroughly. Taste for seasoning and serve in
a small bowl or sauceboat. Cucumber and sour-cream sauce often accom
panies fried fsh.
25
Trout in Aspic
To serve 4
4 pounds fsh trimmings : the heads,
tail and bones of any frm white
feshed fsh
2 quarts water
2 medium-sized onions, peeled and
coarsely chopped
1 medium-sized bay leaf, crumbled
teaspoon crumbled dried
tarragon
2 teaspoons salt
4 ten-ounce brook trout, cleaned but
with heads and tails left on,
4 envelopes unfavored gelatin
2 cups dry white wine
4 egg whites
4 egg shells, fnely crushed
Combine the fsh trimmings and water in a 5- to 6-quart enameled or
stainless-steel pot. The water should cover the trimmings completely; add
more if necessary. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming of the foam
as it rises to the surface. Add the onions, bay leaf, tarragon and salt, re
duce the heat, and simmer partially covered for 20 minutes.
Strain the contents of the pot through a fne sieve into a heavy 1 2-inch
skillet, pressing down hard on the fsh trimmings to extract all their
j uices before discarding them. Set the pot aside.
Let the stock cool to lukewarm, then wash the trout inside and out
under cold running water and place them in the skillet. Bring to a simmer
over moderate heat, reduce the heat, and simmer uncovered for 5 min
utes, or until the fsh feel frm when prodded gently with a fnger.
With a slotted spatula, arrange the trout side by side on a fat platter or
j elly-roll pan. While they are still warm, skin each of the fsh in the fol
lowing fashion : With a small, sharp knife, cut the skin crosswise about
an inch above the base of the tail and about an inch below the gill . Gently
pull of the skin in strips from tail to gill, then turn the fsh over and
peel the upturned side. Drape a dampened kitchen towel over the trout
and refrigerate them while you prepare the aspic.
Measure 6 cups of the fsh stock remaining in the skillet into the re
served pot and let it cool to room temperature. Sprinkle the gelatin evenly
over it and let it soften for a few minutes. Add the wine, egg whites and
egg shells and, stirring constantly, bring to a boil over moderate heat.
When the mixture begins to froth and rise, remove the pot from the heat
and let the stock rest for 1 0 minutes. Then pour the entire contents of the
pot into a fne sieve lined with a double thickness of dampened cheese
cloth and set over a shallow enameled or stainless-steel pan. Allow the
li quid to drain through undisturbed. Season with more salt if needed.
Set the pan in a large bowl half flled with crushed ice or ice cubes and
26
water, and stir the aspic with a metal spoon until it thickens enough to
fow sluggishly of the spoon. Pour aspic to a depth of about Y inch into
a chilled serving platter large enough to hold the four trout attractively,
and refrigerate the platter until the aspic is frm.
Keep the remaining aspic at room temperature so that it remains liquid
and ready to use; if it begins to set, warm briefy over low heat to soften
it, then stir it over ice again until it is thick but still fuid.
GARNISH
1 or 2 large green leaves from the
top of a leek or scallion
1 medium-sized carrot, scraped and
sliced into V-inch-thick rounds
The white of 1 hard-cooked egg
4 sprigs of watercress
Meanwhile, prepare the garnish. Drop the leek or scallion leaves into
boiling water for 1 or 2 minutes. Transfer them to a sieve, run cold water
over them, then spread them on paper towels and pat them dry. Cut the
leaves i nto a dozen or more long, thin strips to use as stems.
Boil the carrot rounds briskly in the same water for about 5 minutes,
until they are barely tender. Drain, run cold water over them, then spread
the rounds on paper towels and pat them dry. With a lily-of-the-valley
trufe cutter or with the tip of a sharp knife, make carrot fowers. Slice a
Y-inch-thick round from the egg white and cut out four small circles
from the round to cover the eyes of the trout.
Set stems, fower and egg-white circles aside, covered with wax paper.
Arrange the trout on the aspic-coated platter and glaze them with a
few tablespoonfuls of the liquid aspic. Refrigerate until the glaze is frm.
Dip the carrot fowers and green leaf stems into the aspic and arrange
them fancifully on top of the fsh. Dip the egg-white circles in the aspic
and place them over the eyes. Chill again until the decorations are an
chored frmly. Then carefully spoon aspic over the trout two more times,
chilling the fsh after each coating to set the glaze.
Melt the aspic remaining in the pan over low heat, and pour it into a
small loaf pan. Refrigerate until the aspic has set frm. Run a thin knife
around the edges to loosen them and dip the bottom into hot water.
Place an inverted plate over the pan and, grasping pan and plate to
gether frmly, turn them over. The aspic should slide out easily. Cut the
aspic into paper-thin sl ices, and then into fne dice. Scatter the dice around
the edge of the fsh platter. Garnish the top with sprigs of watercress and
refrigerate the trout i n the aspic until ready to serve.
2 7
Pan-fried Trout
To serve 4
4 eight-ounce rainbow, l ake or
mountai n trout, cleaned but with
heads and tails left on,
2 teaspoons salt
pepper
Y cup yell ow cornmeal
Y cup four
6 tablespoons vegetable oi l
1 lemon, cut i nto 4 or 8 wedges
Wash the trout under cold running water and pat them dry inside and
out with paper towels. Sprinkle the cavities and skins of the fsh evenly
with the salt and pepper, and set aside. At the same time mix the corn
meal and four together in a bowl , then spread the mixture out on a long
sheet of wax paper.
In a heavy 1 2-inch skillet, melt the butter with the oil over high heat.
When the foam begins to subside, roll each trout over in the cornmeal
and four, shake of the excess coating, and place the fsh in the skillet.
Fry the trout for S minutes, then turn them over carefully with a wide
metal spatula. Continue to fry for S to 6 minutes longer, or until the fsh
are golden brown and crisp.
Arrange the trout attractively on a heated platter and serve them at
once, accompanied by the lemon wedges.
Fried Trout with Bacon
To serve 4
4 fresh rainbow or brook trout,
about Y pound each, cleaned
but with head and tail left on, or
substitute 4 frozen trout,
1 teaspoon salt
8 slices lean bacon
Y cup four
1 lemon, quartered
Wash the fsh under cold running water, pat them dry inside and out
with paper towels, and sprinkle the cavities with the salt and a few grind
ings of black pepper.
In a heavy 1 2-i nch skillet, fry the bacon over moderate heat until the
slices are crisp and brown, then transfer them to paper towels to drai n.
Spread the four over a sheet of wax paper, coat the fsh on both sides,
28
and then shake of any excess four. Fry two trout in the fat remaining i n
the skillet for about 4 minutes on each si de, turning them carefully wi th
a large spatula. Place the trout on a heatproof platter and keep them
warm i n a 200 oven while you fry the remaining fsh.
Serve the fried trout at once, accompanied by the reserved bacon slices
and the lemon quarters .
Smoked Sablefsh Nuggets
3 medium sized boi li ng potatoes
( about % pound) , peeled,
quartered, boiled, mashed to a
puree and cooled to room
temperature ( about 1 Y cups )
% pound smoked sablefsh, faked
with a fork and thoroughly
picked over to remove all bones
(about 2 cups )
\ cup fnely grated oni ons
1 egg, l ightly beaten
Vegetable oi l for deep frying
Combine the mashed potatoes, faked sablefsh, onions, egg, Y cup of
the bread crumbs and a few grindings of pepper in a deep bowl. Beat vig
orously with a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and fufy.
To make each nugget, scoop up about 2 tablespoons of the fsh mix
ture and pat and shape into a ball about 1 \ inches i n diameter. You
should have about 30 nuggets. Roll the nuggets i n the remaining cup of
crumbs to coat them evenly, then arrange them side by side on wax paper
and refrigerate for at l east 30 minutes.
Pour vegetable oil i nto a deep fryer or large heavy saucepan to a depth
of at least 3 inches and heat the oil until it reaches a temperature of 3 5 0
on a deep-frying thermometer.
Deep-fry the sablefsh nuggets, 5 or 6 at a time, turning them about in
the hot oil with a slotted spoon for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they are gold
en brown. As they brown, transfer the nuggets to paper towels to drain.
Arrange the drained nuggets on a heated platter and drape foil over them
to keep them warm while you deep-fry the rest.
Serve the nuggets while they are still hot.
29
Barbecued Lingcod with Cheddar
To serve 6
Y cup vegetable oil
1 Y teaspoons salt
2 pounds lingcod fllets, cut into 6
pieces, or substitute cod, founder
or haddock
Y cup tomato puree
1 teaspoon curry powder
j uice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Y cup chicken stock, fresh or
canned
1 cup dry bread crumbs
Y pound sharp Cheddar cheese,
grated ( 1 cup)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, soft
ened, plus 1 tablespoon unsalted
butter, cut into bits
In a large glass or stainless-steel bowl beat the oil, s alt, Y teaspoon of
the garlic, and a few grindings of pepper together with a whisk until the
ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Add the lingcod pieces and turn them
about with a wooden spoon until they are coated with the mixture. Let
the fsh marinate for 2 hours at room temperature, turning the pieces
over every half hour or so to keep them well moistened.
Meanwhile, in a small saucepan make the sauce by combining the to
mato puree, the remaining Y teaspoon of garlic, the curry powder, lemon
j uice, soy sauce and chicken stock. Stir thoroughly and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 450 . Combine the bread crumbs and cheese in a
small bowl, then spread the mixture out on a strip of wax paper. Using a
pastry brush, spread the softened butter to coat the bottom and sides of a
baking-serving dish j ust large enough to hold the fsh in one layer. One
piece at a time, remove the fsh from the marinade, coat it on both sides
with the bread-crumb-and-cheese mixture, and lay it in the baking dish.
Coat the remaining fsh similarly, arranging them side by side in the dish
as you proceed, and scatter the butter bits over the top.
Bake the fs h undisturbed i n the center of the oven for about 10 min
utes. Meanwhile, set the pan of reserved sauce over high heat and, stirring
constantly, bring it to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat immediately
and, after the fsh has baked for about 10 minutes, spoon about half the
sauce evenly over the fsh. Bake the fsh for about 5 minutes longer, or
until the top is lightly brown and the fsh fakes easily when prodded
gently with a fork. Serve at once directly from the dish and present the re
maining sauce ( reheated if necessary ) in a sauceboat.
30
Lingcod with Garlic and Tomatoes
To serve 4
3 medium-sized frm ripe tomatoes
( about 1 pound)
1 tablespoon butter
2 pounds lingcod fllet, cut into 4
serving pieces, or substitute cod,
founder or haddock
2 teaspoons fnely chopped fresh
garlic
1 Y teaspoons salt
pepper
Drop the tomatoes i nto a pot of boiling water and let them boil briskly
for about 1 0 seconds. Drain, run cold water over them and, with a small,
sharp knife, peel of the skins . Cut out and discard the stems, then cut the
tomatoes i n half crosswise and squeeze gently to remove the seeds. Chop
the tomatoes coarsely; there should be about 1 Y cups.
Heat the oil and butter in a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-inch skillet over high heat.
When the foam begins to subside, add the fsh. Fry uncovered for about
2 minutes, then turn with a wide spatula and fry for 2 minutes longer.
Transfer the fsh to a large platter and discard all but 1 tablespoon of the
fat remaining in the skillet.
Stir in the garlic and cook over low heat for 2 or 3 minutes, until it is
soft but not brown. Then add the tomatoes. Cook uncovered over high
heat, stirring frequently, until the liquid in the pan has evaporated and
the tomatoes are thick enough to hold their shape loosely in a spoon. Stir
in the salt, pepper and parsley, and return the fsh to the pan, discarding
any j uices that have accumulated on the platter. Cover the pan, lower the
heat, and cook for 3 minutes longer, j ust enough to heat the fsh through.
Transfer the fsh to a heated serving platter. Taste the sauce for sea
soning, pour it over the fsh and serve at once.
3 1
Broiled Walleyed Pike
To serve 4
4 eight-ounce walleyed pike fllets
2 teaspoons salt
pepper
j uice
1 teaspoon paprika
2 lemons, cut crosswise into
!- inch-thick slices
Parsley sprigs
Preheat the broiler to its highest setting. Pat the pike fllets completely
dry with paper towels and sprinkle them on both sides with the salt and
pepper. In a small bowl, combine 8 tablespoons of the melted butter with
the lemon j uice.
With a pastry brush, spread the remaining tablespoon of melted butter
evenly over the rack of the broiler pan. Place the fllets on the rack, skin
side down, and brush them with about 2 tablespoons of the butter-and
lemon-j uice mixture. Broil 4 inches from the heat for 5 minutes, brushing
the fllets 2 or 3 times with the remaining butter and lemon j uice. Sprin
kle the paprika over the fsh and continue to broil for 1 to 2 minutes long
er, or until the fsh feels frm when prodded gently with a fnger.
Arrange the fllets attractively on a large heated platter, surround them
with lemon slices and parsley sprigs, and serve at once.
32
Shrimp-stufed Baked Pike
To serve 4
7 tablespoons butter, plus 4
tablespoons butter, softened and
cut into Y-i nch bits
Y cup vegetable oil
Y pound uncooked shrimp
1 tablespoon very fnely chopped
fresh parsley
Y teaspoon ground mace
Y teaspoon salt
1 egg yolk
A 2 Y- to 3-pound pike, cleaned
but with head and tail left on
Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 . In a small pan, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter
with the oil over moderate heat. Remove the pan from the heat and, with
a pastry brush, spread about 1 tablespoon of the mixture evenly over the
bottom of a baking-serving dish large enough to hold the fsh comfortably.
Set the remaining butter-and-oil mixture aside.
Shell the shrimp. Devein them by making a shallow incision down
their backs with a small, sharp knife and lifting out the black or white in
testinal vein with the point of the knife. Chop the shrimp as fne as pos
sible and place them in a mixing bowl .
Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a 6- to 8- inch skillet and brown the
bread crumbs, stirring them frequently until they are golden. With a
rubber spatula, scrape the entire contents of the skillet over the shrimp.
Add the parsley, mace, salt and a few grindings of pepper, and beat vigor
ously with a wooden spoon until the mixture is a thick, smooth paste. Beat
in the egg yolk and the 4 tablespoons of butter bits.
Wash the fsh inside and out under cold running water and dry it thor
oughly with paper towels . Loosely fll the cavity of the fsh with the
shrimp stufng, then close the opening with small skewers, crisscrossing
them with kitchen cord as if lacing a turkey. Place the fsh i n the pre
pared baking Gish and brush the top with 1 or 2 tablespoons of the butter
oil mixture. Bake uncovered in the middle of the oven for 30 minutes,
basting every 1 0 minutes with the remaining butter-and-oil mixture. Serve
at once, directly from the baking dish.
33
Baked Stufed Salmon
To serve 6 to 8
2 tablespoons butter, chilled
tomatoes, page 31 ) , or
substitute 2 cups chopped drained
canned tomatoes
Y teaspoon crumbled dried thyme
Ys teaspoon sugar
3 teaspoons salt
A 5- to 6-pound fresh salmon,
cleaned and scaled but with head
and tail left on
j uice
2 large frm ripe tomatoes, peeled
and cut crosswise into Y-inch
thick slices
1 large onion, peeled, cut crosswise
into Y- inch-thick slices and
separated into rings
1 large green bell pepper, seeded,
deribbed and cut lengthwise into
Y-inch-wide strips
parsley
4 thin slices lean bacon
Preheat the oven to 42 5 . With a pastry brush, spread the 2 tablespoons
of softened butter evenly over the bottom of a shallow baking-serving
dish large enough to hold the salmon. ( If you prefer to serve the fsh
from a platter, line a shallow baking pan with a wide strip of heavy-duty
foil and let 2 inches extend over the pan at each end. Brush the softened
butter over the foil. )
Melt the 2 remaining tablespoons of butter over moderate heat in a 2-
to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan. When the foam begins to
subside, add the garlic and stir for 1 minute. Then add the chopped to
matoes, thyme, sugar, 1 teaspoon of the salt and a few grindings of pep
per. Stirring from time to time, cook briskly until the sauce is thick enough
to coat the spoon heavily. Taste for seasoning, then remove the sauce
from the heat and set aside.
Wash the salmon under cold running water and pat it completely dry
inside and out with paper towels. Combine the lemon j uice with 1 tea
spoon of salt and rub the mixture into the cavity of the fsh. Let the salmon
rest at room temperature while you prepare the stufng.
Combine the sliced tomatoes, onion rings, green-pepper strips, pars
ley, the remaining teaspoon of salt and a liberal grinding of black pepper
in a deep bowl . Toss together gently but thoroughly, then fll the salmon
with the stufng. Close the opening with small skewers and crisscross
with kitchen string as you would lace a turkey, or sew the opening se
curely shut with a trussing needle and white thread.
Place the salmon in the buttered dish. With a sharp knife, score the
34
top of the fsh by making four ;.-inch-deep slashes each about 4 inches
long and spaced about 1 Y inches apart across the body. Insert a thin
slice of bacon into each slash, then spoon the reserved tomato sauce evenly
over the salmon.
Bake uncovered in the middle of the oven, basting the fsh from time
to time with the j uices that accumulate in the pan. In 40 to SO minutes
the salmon should be j ust frm when pressed lightly with a fnger. Serve
at once, directly from the baking dish. Or, using the long ends of foil as
handles, carefully lift the salmon out of the pan. Gently slide it from the
foil onto a large heated platter and moisten the top with a few spoonfuls
of the sauce remaining in the pan.
Laksloda
POTATO AND SMOKED-SALMON CASSEROLE
To serve 4
1 tablespoon butter, softened, plus
3 medium-sized boiling potatoes,
peeled and cut crosswise into
Y-inch-thick slices
Y pound smoked salmon, sl iced
paper thin
1 Y cups light cream
Y teaspoon ground allspice
parsley
Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 . With a pastry brush, spread the tablespoon of
softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 1 -quart baking-serving cas
serole. Spread about one third of the potato slices evenly on the bottom
of the casserole, sprinkle them with 2 tablespoons of the onions, and lay
half the salmon slices on top. Add another third of the potatoes, the re
maining 2 tablespoons of onions and the rest of the salmon, and cover
with the remaining potato slices.
Pour the cream down the sides of the casserole, then dribble the melt
ed butter over the potatoes and sprinkle them with the allspice and a lib
eral grinding of pepper.
Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 hour, or until the potatoes are ten
der and show no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small
skewer or sharp knife. Sprinkle the top with parsley and serve at once, di
rectly from the casserole.
3 5
Molded Salmon with Cucumber Sauce
To serve 4
MOLDED SALMON
1 pound fresh salmon
cup distilled white vinegar
teaspoon crumbled dried thyme
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon salt
6 whole black peppercorns
cup plus 1 tablespoon cold
water
2 teaspoons unfavored gelatin
cup wine vi negar
1 Y teaspoons dry mustard
1 teaspoon sugar
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut
into - inch bits
% cup milk
Place the salmon in an enameled or stainless-steel casserole j ust large
enough to hold it and pour i n enough cold water to cover the fsh com
pletely. Add the distilled white vinegar, bay leaf, thyme, 2 tablespoons
of the salt and the 6 peppercorns, and bring to a boil over high heat. Re
duce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for about 2 5 minutes,
or until the salmon fakes easily when prodded gently with a fork.
With a slotted spatula, transfer the fsh to a plate; discard the cooking
liquid and seasonings . Remove the skin and discard it, then break the
salmon into large fakes with a fork, discarding any bones you fnd. Cov
er the fsh with foil or plastic wrap and set aside.
With a pastry brush, spread the vegetable oil evenly over the bottom
and sides of four 6-ounce individual molds. Invert the molds over paper
towels to drain.
Pour cup of the col d water into a small bowl , sprinkle in the gel
atin and let it soften for a few minutes. Meanwhile, combine the wine vin
egar, the dry mustard, the sugar and the remaining teaspoon of salt i n a
1 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan. Stir until the dry ingredi
ents are completely dissolved, then boil briskly to reduce the mixture to
about 3 tablespoons. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the re
maining tablespoon of cold water.
Stirring the vinegar mi xture constantly with a wire whisk, add the egg
yolks one at a time. Still whisking, cook over the lowest possible heat for
1 minute, or until it thickens lightly. Do not let the mixture get too hot
or it will curdle. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and whisk in
the butter bits.
36
In a separate small saucepan, heat the milk over moderate heat until
bubbles begin to appear around the edges. Add the gelatin to the milk
and stir until it dissolves completely. Stirring the vinegar mixture with
the whisk, pour in the milk and gelatin in a slow, thin stream, then stir in
the faked salmon. Taste for seasoning. Pour the mixture into the oiled
molds, spreading it and smoothing the top with a spatula. Refrigerate for
at least 4 hours, or until the molded salmon is very frm.
CUCUMBER SAUCE
1 large frm cucumber
Y cup heavy cream, chilled
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
Y teaspoon ground hot red pepper
(cayenne )
1 teaspoon salt
leaves, or substitute 1 teaspoon
dried dill weed
Just before serving, prepare the cucumber sauce in the following fash
ion : With a small, sharp knife, peel the cucumber and slice it lengthwise
in half. Scoop out the seeds by running the tip of a teaspoon down the cen
ter of each half. Chop the cucumber fne and squeeze it handful by
handful to remove the excess liquid. Spread the cucumber on a paper
towel to drain completely.
In a chilled bowl, beat the cream with a wire whisk or a rotary or elec
tric beater until it is stif enough to stand in frm peaks on the beater
when it is lifted from the bowl . Beat in the wine vinegar, red pepper and
1 teaspoon of salt. Add the cucumber and dill, and fold them into the
cream mixture gently but thoroughly.
To unmold and serve the salmon, dip the bottom of the molds briefy
into hot water and run a thin knife around the edges. Place an inverted
serving plate over each mold and, grasping plate and mold together frm
ly, turn them over. Rap the plate on a table and the salmon should slide
out easily. Serve the cucumber sauce separately in a bowl or sauceboat.
37
Salmon Poached in Cider
To serve 4
2 tablespoons butter, softened
parsley
4 eight- ounce salmon steaks, each
cut about 1 inch thick
8 medium-sized fresh mushroom
caps, thinly sliced
3 medium-sized frm, ripe tomatoes,
peeled and seeded (see lingcod
with garlic and tomatoes, page
31 ) and cut lengthwise into strips
about 2 inches long and Y inch
wide
1 small bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
1 Y cups English cider, or
substitute dry white wine
1 egg yolk
Y cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon strained fresh lemon
j uice
Preheat the oven to 3 75 . With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of
the butter over the bottom and sides of a shallow baking dish j ust large
enough to hold the salmon steaks in one layer. Spread the chopped on
ions and parsley evenly over the bottom of the dish, place the salmon
steaks over them, and scatter the sliced mushroom caps, tomato strips and
bay leaf on top. Season with the salt and a few grindings of pepper. Pour
the cider or wine down the sides of the pan and bring to a simmer over
moderate heat.
Cover the dish loosely with a piece of buttered wax paper, then place it
in the middle of the oven. Poach the salmon for about 20 minutes, or
until the fsh fakes easily when prodded gently with a fork. With a large
slotted spatula, carefully transfer the fsh and its topping to a heated serv
ing platter, cover with foil and keep warm in the turned-of oven while
you make the sauce.
Strain the remaining contents of the baking dish through a fne sieve
set over a 1 Y- to 2-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan. Press
down hard on the seasonings with the back of a wooden spoon to extract
all of their j uices before discarding them. Boil the liquid briskly, un
covered, until it is reduced to about Y cup.
In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk and cream together with a wire
whisk. When the mixture is smooth, whisk in 1 or 2 tablespoons of the
hot liquid. Stirring constantly with the whisk, pour the mixture into the
saucepan and simmer over low heat until it thickens lightly. Do not let it
come near a boil or it will curdle. Remove from the heat and stir in the re
maining tablespoon of butter and the lemon j uice. Taste for seasoning
and pour the sauce over the fsh. Serve at once.
38
Pickled Salmon
To serve 1 2 as a frst course
2 cups white distilled vinegar
2 cups water
Y cup olive oil
2 small onions, peeled, sliced into
Y-inch-thick rings
2 medium- sized bay leaves,
crumbled
2 teaspoons mustard seeds
2 teaspoons whole cloves
2 teaspoons whole white
peppercorns
teaspoon whole black peppercorns
5 pounds fresh salmon, boned,
skinned and cut into l - inch pieces
1 tablespoon salt
Combine the vinegar, water, olive oil, onions, bay leaves, mustard seeds,
cloves, and white and black peppercorns in a 2- to 3- quart enameled or
stainless-steel saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to
low, and simmer partially covered for 45 minutes.
Meanwhile, spread the salmon pieces in one layer on a strip of wax
paper. Sprinkle the fsh evenly with the salt and let it rest at room tem
perature for about 30 minutes. Then drop the salmon into a colander and
run cold water over it to rinse of the excess salt.
Pat the fsh dry with paper towels and pack the pieces tightly into glass
or earthenware j ars or crocks. Pour the hot vinegar-and-spice mixture
over the salmon, ; cup at a time, allowing the liquid to seep down slowly
to the bottom of the j ar before adding more.
Cool to room temperature, tightly cover with foil or plastic wrap, and
refrigerate the salmon for at least 24 hours before serving. Tightly cov
ered, it can safely be kept in the refrigerator for about a week.
39
Shad-Roe Croquettes
To serve 6
1 pound shad roe, thoroughly
defrosted if frozen
1 cups soft fresh crumbs made
from day-old homemade-type
white bread, pulverized in a
blender or fnely shredded with a
fork
2 teaspoons strained fresh lemon
j uice
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons four
1 cup heavy cream
1 egg, lightly beaten
3 lemons, each cut into 4 wedges
Place the roe in a heavy 2- to 3-quart saucepan, pour in 1 quart of water
and over high heat bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer
the roe partially covered for 12 to 15 minutes, or until they feel frm
when prodded gently with a fnger. Drain the roe and pat them com
pletely dry with paper towels, then slit and remove the membranes with a
small, sharp knife. Place the roe in a deep bowl and mash them to a
smooth puree with the back of a table fork.
In a saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over moderate heat.
When the foam subsides, add the onions and, stirring frequently, cook
for about 5 minutes. When the onions are soft and translucent but not
brown, scrape them over the roe with a rubber spatula. Set the saucepan
aside. Add cup of the bread crumbs, the lemon j uice, salt and a few
grindings of pepper to the roe and mix well .
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in the saucepan, then
add the four and blend well. Pour in the cream and, stirring constantly
with a wire whisk, cook the sauce over high heat until it comes to a boil,
thickens and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 3
minutes to remove the raw taste of four.
Pour the sauce over the roe mixture and stir until the two are thor
oughly blended. Taste for seasoning. Spread the mixture in a shallow
dish and chill . To form each croquette, scoop up about 2 tablespoons of
the mixture and pat and shape it into a sausagelike roll about 2 Y inches
long and 1 inch in diameter.
One at a time, immerse the croquettes in the beaten egg and then roll
them in the remaining 1 cup of bread crumbs, coating them as thor
oughly as possible. Arrange the croquettes side by side on a baking sheet
covered with wax paper, and refrigerate them for at least 20 minutes to
frm the coating.
40
Preheat the oven to its lowest setting. At the same time line a large shal
low baking pan with a double thickness of paper towels and place it on
the middle shelf of the oven.
Pour vegetable oil into a deep fryer or large heavy saucepan to a depth
of 2 to 3 inches and heat the oil until it reaches a temperature of 360 on
a deep-frying thermometer.
Deep-fry the croquettes 5 or 6 at a time, turning them occasionally
with a slotted spoon, for about 5 minutes, or until they are crisp and
golden on all sides. As they brown, transfer them to the lined pan and
keep them warm in the oven while you deep-fry the rest.
As soon as they are all fried, arrange the croquettes on a heated platter
and garnish with the lemon wedges . Serve at once.
Rockfsh Espanol
To serve 4
cut crosswise into Y-inch-thick
slices
1 medium-sized green
p
epper,
seeded, deribbed and cut
lengthwise into Y- i nch-wide
strips
2 one-pound rockfsh fllets, each
skinned and cut lengthwise in
half
1 teaspoon salt
tomatoes, page 3 1 ), or substitute
2 cups chopped drained canned
tomatoes
In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2- inch skillet, heat the oil over moderate heat until a
light haze forms above it. Add the onions, pepper strips and garlic and,
stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables are soft
but not brown.
Sprinkle the rockfsh fllets on both sides with the salt and place them
in the skillet on top of the vegetables. Spread the tomatoes over the fsh,
cover the skillet partially, and cook over moderate heat for 1 5 to 20 min
utes, or until the fsh fakes easily when prodded gently with a fork.
With a slotted spatula, transfer the fllets to a heated serving platter.
Bring the contents of the skillet to a boil over high heat and, stirring con
stantly, cook briskly until the vegetable mixture thickens enough to hold
its shape lightly in a spoon. Taste for seasoning and pour the vegetable
mixture over the fsh. Serve at once.
41
Seafood Stew
To serve 8
STOCK
l cup olive oil
2 small bay leaves, crumbled
Y teaspoon thyme or sweet basil
Y teaspoon powdered safron
Y teaspoon grated orange peel
2 sprigs parsley
l cup tomato paste
1 Y quarts clam j uice, fresh or
bottled
canned
In a heavy 6- to 8-quart casserole, heat the olive oil over moderate heat
until a light haze forms above it. Add the onions, celery and garlic and,
stirring constantly, cook for about 5 minutes without allowing the onions
and celery to brown. Stir in the bay leaves, thyme or basil, safron, orange
peel, parsley and tomato paste, mix thoroughly, then pour in the clam
j uice, wine and chicken stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, then par
tially cover the pan, reduce the heat to low, and simmer undisturbed for
30 minutes.
Strain the contents of the casserole through a fne sieve set over a large
bowl, pressing down hard on the vegetables and herbs with the back of a
spoon to extract their j uices before discarding the pulp.
FISH AND SHELLFISH
Y pound small shrimp
1 Y pounds ( 1 5 to 20 ) small hard
shell clams, washed and
thoroughly scrubbed
1 pound lingcod, cut in 2- i nch
pieces
1 pound halibut, cut in 2-inch pieces
1 pound salmon, cut in 2- i nch pieces
1 pound lump crabmeat
Shell the shrimp. Devein them by making a shallow incision down
their backs with the tip of a small, sharp knife and lifting out the black
or white intestinal vein with the point of the knife.
Return the strained stock to the casserole and, over high heat, bring to a
boil . Then drop in the clams, lingcod, halibut and salmon, lower the heat
and simmer uncovered for about 6 minutes before adding the shrimp and
crabmeat. Simmer an additional 3 to 4 minutes, or until all the clams
have opened and the fsh fakes easily when prodded with a fork. Taste
for seasoning and serve directly from the casserole or, if you prefer, trans
fer the stew to a heated tureen or serve in individual soup bowls.
42
aOIUII I IIII IIIDI
Chicken and Caraway Seeds
To serve 4
A 3- to 4-pound chicken, cut
into 8 serving pieces
1 teaspoon salt
Y teaspoon freshly ground pepper
cup plus 2 tablespoons four
cup chicken stock, fresh or
canned
2 tablespoons caraway seeds,
coarsely crushed with a mortar
and pestle or wrapped in a
kitchen towel and coarsely
crushed with a mallet or the side
of a cleaver
2 cups sour cream
Pat the pieces of chicken completely dry with paper towels and season
them with the salt and pepper. Dip each piece in cup of the four and
shake vigorously to remove the excess four.
In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-inch skillet at least 2 inches deep, melt the butter
with the oil over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, brown
the chicken, in two batches if necessary to avoid crowding the pan. Start
the pieces skin side down and turn them 2 or 3 times with tongs, regu
lating the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. As
they brown, transfer the pieces of chicken to a plate.
Pour of the fat remaining in the skillet and i n its place add the chick
en stock and caraway seeds . Bring to a boil over high heat, meanwhile
scraping in the brown particles that cling to the bottom and sides of the
pan. Return the chicken and the liquid that has accumulated around it to
the skillet, reduce the heat to low, and simmer covered for 30 to 45 min
utes, or until the chicken is tender.
Arrange the pieces of chicken attractively on a heated platter and drape
foil over them to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce. Mix the re
maining 2 tablespoons of four into the sour cream. Stirring constantly,
pour the mixture into the liquid remaining in the skillet and simmer
until the sauce is smooth and hot. Taste for seasoning. Pour the sauce
over the bird and serve at once.
43
Broiled Chicken with Mushroom Sauce
To serve 4
Two 1 Y- to 2-pound chickens
Y teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons butter, melted, plus 3
tablespoons butter
Y pound frm fresh mushrooms
2 tablespoons four
1 cup chicken stock, fresh or canned
2 tablespoons pale dry sherry
Y teaspoon ground nutmeg,
preferably freshly grated
Y cup heavy cream
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Have your butcher remove the backbones and the spoon-shaped breast
bones from the chickens, then fatten them with a cleaver and cut the
birds in half. Or prepare the chickens yourself in the following fashion :
Place one chicken at a time on a cutting board and, with a boning knife,
cut along the length of the backbone on both sides. Discard the back
bone, spread the bird apart and bend it back until the breastbone pops
up. Remove it. Cut out the white cartilage at the tip of the breast and
chop of the small wing tips. Lay the chicken skin side down and fatten
the rib bones in the breast by pounding them with the side of a cleaver or
a kitchen mallet. Cut the chicken in half lengthwise.
Preheat the broiler to its highest setting. Season the birds with the salt
and a few gri ndings of black pepper. With a pastry brush, spread 1 ta
blespoon of the melted butter on the rack of the broiler pan. Arrange the
chickens on the rack, skin side down, and brush them with a tablespoon
or so of the melted butter. Broil 4 inches from the heat for 5 or 6 min
utes, then turn the birds over and brush them with a spoonful of melted
butter. Broil 6 minutes, turn the birds again, and brush them with butter.
Then broil 6 minutes longer, turn the birds skin side up, and remove the
pan from the broil er. Reserve the remaining melted butter.
Meanwhile, wipe the mushrooms with a dampened cloth, break of the
8 most attractive caps, and fnely chop the remaining caps and all the
mushroom stems. In a heavy s to 1 0- inch skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of
the solid butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside,
add the whole mushroom caps and turn them about until they glisten
with butter and are delicately colored. With a slotted spoon, transfer the
caps to a plate and reserve them. Add the chopped mushrooms to the but
ter remaining in the skillet and, stirring frequently, cook over moderate
heat for 8 to 1 0 minutes, or until the moisture they give of has evapo
rated. Do not let the mushrooms brown. Remove the mushrooms from
the pan and set them aside in a bowl.
Place the remaining 2 tablespoons of solid butter in the skillet and
melt it over moderate heat. Sprinkle in the four and mix well . Stirring
44
the mixture constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the chicken stock in a
slow, thin stream and cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil,
thickens and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 or 3 min
utes. Then stir in the sherry, nutmeg and a few grains of red pepper.
Combine the cream and egg yolk in a small bowl and beat with a
whisk or fork until smooth. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of the simmering sauce,
then pour the mixture into the sauce in the skillet, stirring constantly.
Taste for seasoning, and stir in the chopped mushrooms. Simmer for a
minute to heat them through, then remove the pan from the heat.
Arrange the chicken halves skin side up in one layer i n a shallow bak
ing-serving dish and, with a rubber spatula, spread the sauce evenly over
them. Set the mushroom caps on the chickens and dribble the remaining
melted butter over the top. Place the dish under the broiler for 3 to 5 min
utes, or until the sauce is bubbly and the mushroom caps golden. Sprinkle
with the parsley and serve at once.
Frosted Chicken Breasts
To serve 6
3 one-pound chicken breasts,
skinned, boned and split in half
1 quart chicken stock, fresh or
canned
' cup fnely chopped onions
' cup fnely chopped celery,
including some leaves
1 teaspoon salt
' cup cream cheese, softened
cup freshly made mayonnaise
(page 1 1 ), or substitute cup
bottled unsweetened mayonnaise
leaves, or substitute 1 teaspoon
crumbled dried dill weed
' teaspoon fnely grated fresh
lemon peel
Arrange the chicken breasts in one layer in a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-inch skillet,
and add the chicken stock, onions, celery, salt and a few grindings of pep
per. The liquid should cover the chicken breasts completel y; i f necessary,
pour i n more stock or add water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce
the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for 1 0 minutes, or until the
chicken is white and opaque and feels frm to the touch.
Remove the skillet from the heat and let the chicken cool to room tem
perature in the stock. Then drain the chicken, cover with foil or plastic
wrap and refrigerate it for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughl y chilled.
Strain the stock and refrigerate or freeze it for another use.
Just before serving, cream the cheese in a deep bowl by beating and
mashi ng i t against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until it
is light and fufy. Beat in the mayonnai se, dill and lemon peel, and taste
for seasoning. With a metal spatula, spread the mayonnaise mixture
smoothly in a - inch-thick layer over the top of each chicken breast. Ar
range the frosted chicken on a chilled platter and serve at once.
45
Individual Turkey Hash Ovals
To serve 4
1 large boiling potato, peeled and
quartered
8 tablespoons butter, cut into bits
2 cups coarsely chopped cooked
turkey
Y cup coarsely chopped fresh
parsley
1 egg plus 2 lightly beaten eggs
Y cup heavy cream
1 Y teaspoons salt
pepper
Y cup four
bread, pulverized i n a blender or
4 tablespoons ve
etable oil
Drop the potato quarters into enough boiling water to cover them by 1
inch and boil briskly until they are tender and show no resistance when
pi erced deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife. Drain of
the water, return the pan to low heat and slide it back and forth for a min
ute or so to dry the potato quarters completely. Mash them to a smooth
puree with a table fork, add 4 tablespoons of the butter bits, and beat
until the butter is completely absorbed.
Put the turkey, onions, celery and parsley through the medium blade
of a food grinder i nto a deep bowl . Add one egg and stir with a wooden
spoon until well blended. Add the potatoes, cream, salt and pepper, and
beat vigorously until the mixture is smooth and fufy. Cover the bowl
with wax paper and chill the mixture for about 30 minutes.
To shape the turkey hash, divide the mixture into eight equal parts
and pat each one into a somewhat fattened oval cake about 4 inches long
and 1 inch wide. One at a time, dip each cake in the four to coat it evenly
on all sides and shake of the excess. Immerse the cake in the beaten eggs,
then roll it in the bread crumbs. Set the cakes side by side on a plate or
piece of wax paper and refrigerate them for at least 30 minutes to frm
the coating.
In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-inch skillet, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of
butter bits with the oil over moderate heat. Add the turkey-hash cakes
and fry them for 2 or 3 minutes on each side, or until they are golden
brown. Serve at once.
46
Pheasant and Apples with Sour-Cream Sauce
To serve 4
2 one-pound oven- ready pheasants,
split lengthwise into halves
1 teaspoon salt
pepper
Y cup plus 2 teaspoons four
4 slices bacon
The livers, hearts and gizzards of
the pheasants, fnely chopped
2 frm unpeeled cooking apples,
cored and quarterd
2 tablespoons brandy
Y cup sour cream
Pat the pheasant halves dry with paper towels and sprinkle them with the
salt and pepper. One at a time, dip each half in Y cup of the four,
turning it to coat both sides, and vigorously shake of the excess four.
In a heavy 1 2-inch skillet, fry the bacon over moderate heat until the
slices are crisp and brown and have rendered all their fat. Set the bacon
slices aside on paper towels to drain, then crumble them into bits.
Pour of all but about 2 tablespoons of the fat remaining in the skillet
and add the butter. Melt the butter in the fat and then brown the pheasant
halves, one or two at a time. Turn the pheasant frequently and regulate
the heat so that it colors richly and evenly without burning. As each half
browns, set it aside on a plate.
quently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but
not brown. Add the pheasant livers, hearts and gizzards, and stir for 2 to
3 minutes. Stir in the stock and return the birds and the liquid that has ac
cumulated around them to the skillet. Bring to a boil over high heat, re
duce the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for 20 minutes.
Place the apple quarters in the skillet and spoon the cooking liquid
over them. Then simmer partially covered for about 1 0 minutes longer.
To test for doneness, pierce the thigh of a pheasant with the point of a
small, sharp knife. The j uice that trickles out should be clear yellow; if it
is tinged with pink, simmer the birds for a few mi nutes more. Arrange
the pheasants and apples attractively on a heated platter and drape foil
over them to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce.
Skim the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid, pour i n the brandy
and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Reduce the heat to low and
cook for 1 to 2 mi nutes. Meanwhile, with a wire whisk, beat the re
maining 2 teaspoons of four into the sour cream. Stirring the sauce with
the whisk, pour in the sour-cream mixture and simmer slowly for 4 to 5
minutes, until it is smooth and slightly thickened. Taste for seasoning,
then pour the sauce over the pheasants. Sprinkle the pheasants with the re
served bacon bits and serve at once.
47
Pheasant Pie
To serve 6 to 8
2 two-pound oven-ready pheasants,
quartered
Y cup vegetable oil
% cup fnely chopped onions
canned
2 cups water
parsley
1 tablespoon fnely chopped celery
leaves
2 teaspoons salt
8 small white onions, each about 1
i nch in diameter, peeled and
trimmed
2 l arge carrots, scraped and cut
crosswise into l - i nch-thick rounds
1 pound fresh mushrooms, wiped
with a dampened towel, trimmed
and cut lengthwise, including the
stems, into Y- inch-thick slices
6 slices Canadian-style back bacon
Short-crust pastry for pie top (page
1 33)
Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 o. Wash the pheasant quarters quickly under cold
running water and pat them dry with paper towels. Spread Y cup of the
four on a sheet of wax paper and turn the pheasant pieces in it to coat
them on all sides. Shake vigorously to remove the excess four.
In a heavy 6- to 8-quart casserole or Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil
over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Brown the pheas
ants, a few pieces at a time, turning them with tongs and regulating the
heat so that they color richly and evenly on both sides without burning.
As they brown, transfer the quarters to a plate.
Add the chopped onions to the fat remaining in the casserole and, stir
ring frequently, cook for 5 minutes, or until they are soft and lightly col
ored. Then pour in the chicken stock and bring to a boil, meanwhile
scraping in any browned bits that cling to the bottom and sides of the cas
serole. Stir in the water, parsley, celery leaves, peppercorns and salt.
Return the pheasant and the j uices that have accumulated around it to
the casserole. Cover tightly and bring to a boil over high heat. Place the
casserole i n the middle of the oven and braise the pheasant for about 30
minutes . To test for doneness, pierce the thigh with the point of a small,
sharp knife. The j uice that trickles out should be slightly tinged with
pink. Do not overcook the birds.
Transfer the pheasant quarters to a plate and remove the skin from the
pheasant with a small, sharp knife. Cut the meat away from the bones, dis
card the skin and bnes, and cut the meat into l -inch pieces. Place the
meat in a large bowl and set aside.
48
Drop the whole white onions and the carrots i nto the casserole. Bring
to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer partially cov
ered for 20 to 30 mi nutes, or until the onions and carrots are tender.
With a slotted spoon, add the vegetables to the pheasant meat.
Meanwhile melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a heavy 8- to 1 0-inch
skillet. When the foam begins to subside, drop i n the sliced mushrooms
and, stirring frequently, cook for 4 to 5 mi nutes, or until the slices are
soft and l ightly colored. With a slotted spoon, transfer the mushrooms to
the bowl with the pheasant.
Strain the braising liquid remaining in the casserole through a fne
sieve set over a mixing bowl, pressing down hard on the herbs with the
back of a spoon before discarding them. There should be about 3 cups of
strained liqui d. If there is less, add more chicken stock; if there is more,
boil the liquid briskly over high heat until it is reduced to 3 cups.
In a heavy 1- to 2-quart saucepan, melt the remaining 6 tablespoons of
butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the re
maining 6 tablespoons of four and mix well. Stirring constantly with a
wire whisk, pour in the braising liquid and cook over high heat until the
sauce comes to a boi l, thickens and i s smooth. Pour the sauce over the veg
etables and pheasant, and toss together lightly.
Preheat the oven to 400 . Lay the slices of bacon side by side, over
lapping them slightly i n the bottom of a 2-quart casserole. Pour in the
pheasant-and-vegetable mixture, spreading it evenly with a spatula. Place
the bay leaf on top and set aside.
.
On a lightly foured surface, roll the short-crust pastry dough into a
rough circle about Y inch thick and several inches larger than the top of
the baking dish. Drape the dough over a rolling pi n, lift it up, and gently
unroll it over the top of the dish. With scissors or a small knife, trim of
the excess dough, leaving a l -inch overhang all around the rim. Tuck the
overhang under the edges of the dough and secure the pastry to the rim
by crimping it tightly with your fngers or the tines of a fork. Cut a l
inch hole i n the center of the pastry.
Bake in the lower third of the oven for 30 minutes. Reduce the tem
perature to 3 5 0 , and continue baking for 30 minutes longer, or until the
pastry is golden brown. Serve at once, directly from the baking dish.
49
Wild-Rice-stufed Quail with Cream-and-Morel Sauce
To serve 4 or 8
Y ounce dried morels, or substitute
any type dried mushrooms
% cup water
Place the morels ( or other dried mushrooms ) i n a small bowl, pour the
water over them, and let stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours.
Drain the morels, reserving the soaking liquid, and chop them coarsely.
WILD- RICE STUFFING
Y cup wild rice, thoroughly rinsed
1 to 1 Y cups boiling chicken
stock, fresh or canned
Y teaspoon salt
Meanwhile, prepare the wild-rice stufng i n the following fashion: In
a heavy 8- to 1 0-i nch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of butter over moderate
heat. When the foam begins to subside, add Y cup of cho
p
ped onions
and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and
translucent but not brown. Add the wild rice and stir for 2 or 3 minutes
to coat the grains evenly with butter. Then pour in 1 cup of the boiling
chicken stock, add Y teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of pepper,
and bring to a boil again over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover
tightly, and simmer for about 30 to 45 minutes, or until the grains are
tender and have absorbed all the stock. ( Check the skillet from time to
time; if the wild rice is too dry add up to Y cup more boiling chicken stock,
a tablespoon at a time. ) Remove the skillet from the heat, taste for season
ing, and cover to keep the stufng warm.
QUAIL
8 six-ounce oven-ready quail
2 teaspoons salt
Y teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper
4 slices bacon, each cut
crosswise in half
Preheat the oven to 4 7 5 . Wash the quail under cold running water and
dry them thoroughly with paper towels. Rub 2 teaspoons of salt and Y
teaspoon of black pepper i nto the cavities of the birds. Then fll them
loosely with the wild-rice stufng, dividing it evenly among them, and
close the opening of each bird by sewing it with heavy white thread.
50
Arrange the quail on their backs on a rack in a large shallow roasting
pan. Drape a piece of bacon across the breasts and thighs of each bird,
pressing the bacon snugly against the bird to keep it in place. Roast in the
middle of the oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes, basting the quail every 5 min
utes or so wit
h
6 tablespoons of melted butter and the liquid that has ac
cumulated in the bottom of the pan. The birds are done when they are
golden brown and the drumsticks feel tender to the touch.
SAUCE
2 tablespoons four
Y cup chicken stock, fresh or
canned
Discard the bacon, transfer the quail to a heated platter, and drape foil
over them to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce. Pour of all
but about 2 tablespoons of the fat from the roasting pan and i n its place
add Y cup of chopped onions. Stirring frequently, cook over moderate
heat for about 5 minutes, or until the onions are soft and translucent but
not brown. Add the four and mix well . Stirring the mixture constantly
with a wire whisk or large spoon, add Y cup of chicken stock, the re
served soaking liquid from the mushrooms, the brandy and thyme, and
cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil, thickens lightly and is
smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes to remove
the taste of four.
Stir in the cream, then strain the sauce through a fne sieve into a small
saucepan, pressing down hard on the onions with the back of a spoon to
extract all their j uice before discarding the pulp. Add the reserved mush
rooms and simmer the sauce for a minute or so to heat it through. Taste
for seasoning, pour into a bowl or sauceboat and serve at once with the
stufed quail.
5 1
Grouse with Brandied Orange Stufng
To serve 6
6 one-pound oven-ready grouse
2 teaspoons salt
1 large navel orange
1 2 tablespoons butter, plus 4
tablespoons butter, melted
8 to 10 slices homemade-type white
bread, cut into - inch cubes
( 4 cups )
2 cups fnely chopped celery
6 grouse livers, fnely chopped
cup brandy
1 teaspoon crumbled dried sage
leaves
rosemary
Y teaspoon crumbled dried chervil
marj oram
Y cup strained fresh orange j uice
Preheat the oven to 42 5 . Wash the grouse quickly under cold running
water and pat them dry inside and out with paper towels. Season the cav
ities of the birds with 1 teaspoon of the salt and a few grindings of pep
per, and set aside.
Grate the peel of the orange fne, taking care not to include any of the
bitter white pith underneath; measure and set aside 2 tablespoons of grat
ed peel . With a small, sharp knife, remove all the remaining peel, the
pith and white membrane from the orange. Chop the orange pulp fne
and squeeze it between your hands to remove the excess j uice. Reserve
the orange pulp.
In a heavy 1 2- inch skillet, melt 6 tablespoons of the butter over mod
erate heat. Drop i n the bread cubes and stir until they are delicately
browned. Transfer the cubes to a deep bowl, add 6 tablespoons of butter
to the skillet and melt it as before. When the foam begins to subside, add
the celery, onions and grouse l ivers and, stirring frequently, cook for
about 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Pour in the
brandy, bring to a boil over high heat, and cook briskly for 30 seconds.
With a rubber spatula, scrape the contents of the skillet over the bread
cubes. Add the chopped orange pulp, the reserved orange peel, the sage,
rosemary, chervil, marjoram, the remaining teaspoon of salt and a few
grindings of pepper. Mix well, taste for seasoning, then spoon the stuf
ing into the cavities of the grouse. Close the openings by lacing them
with skewers and kitchen cord or sewing them with heavy white thread.
Truss the birds neatly and l ay them on their backs on a rack in a large,
shallow roasting pan. Combine the 4 tablespoons of melted butter with
the orange j uice and, with a pastry brush, spread a few tablespoons of the
mixture over the breasts and legs of the birds.
5 2
Roast in the middle of the oven for 1 5 minutes, then reduce the tem
perature to 3 7 5 and brush the grouse again with the butter and orange
j uice. Continue roasting for 2 5 to 30 minutes longer, basting the birds
every 1 0 minutes. To test for doneness, pierce the thigh of a bird with
the point of a small , sharp knife. The j uice that trickles out should be
clear yellow; if it is slightly tinged with pink, roast the grouse for an
other 5 to 1 0 minutes.
Transfer the grouse to a heated platter and let them rest about 1 0 min
utes before serving.
Roast Quail
To serve 3 or 6
6 six-ounce oven- ready quail
Y teaspoon salt
pepper
2 tablespoons dry white wine
2 tablespoons strained fresh lime
j uice
4 teaspoons Cointreau or other
orange-favored liqueur
Y teaspoon crumbled dried basil
Preheat the oven to 475 o . Wash the quail under cold running water and
dry them thoroughly with paper towels. Rub them inside and out with
the olive oil and season them with the salt and pepper. Place the birds on
their backs on a rack in a large shallow roasting pan.
Combine the butter, brandy, wine, lime j uice, Cointreau and basil in a
bowl and mix well . With a pastry brush, coat the birds liberally with the
butter-and-brandy mixture. Roast in the middle of the oven for 1 5 to 20
minutes, basting the quail every 5 minutes or s o with the remaining butter
and brandy. The birds are done when they are a golden brown and the
drumsticks feel tender to the touch.
Serve the roast quail at once from a large heated platter or, if you like,
run the birds under a preheated broiler for a few minutes to brown them
further before serving.
5 3
116
Cold Spiced Beef
To serve 8
6 cups cold water
2 cups cider vinegar
1 cup fnely grated onions
1 teaspoons ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly grated black
pepper
A 3- to 4-pound beef chuck
roast, trimmed of excess fat and
securely tied in 2 or 3 places
cut crosswise into '- inch-thick
slices
2 medium-sized carrots, scraped and
cut into '- inch-thick rounds
1 medium-sized white turnip,
peeled and cut crosswise into '
inch-thick rounds
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . Combine 6 cups of the water, the vinegar, on
ions, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, salt and pepper in a heavy 5- to 6-quart
casserole and mix well. Add the beef roast. The liquid should cover the
meat completely; if necessary, add more water. Bring to a boil over high
heat, cover tightly, and then braise in the middle of the oven for 2
hours . Add the sliced onions and the carrots and turnips, and continue to
braise, tightly covered, for about 30 minutes longer, or until the vege
tables are tender and the beef shows no resistance when pierced deeply
with the point of a small, sharp knife.
Transfer the beef, onions, carrots and turnips to a platter to cool. Pour
the remaining cup of cold water into a small bowl and sprinkle the gel
atin over it to soften. Meanwhile, strain the beef cooking liquid through
a fne sieve set over a bowl and, with a large spoon, skim as much fat as
possible from the surface. Measure 1 quart of the strained liquid into a
saucepan and add it to the gelatin. Stirring constantly, cook over low heat
until the gelatin dissolves completely. Taste for seasoning.
Cut away the string, and carve the beef into '-inch-thick slices. Over
lapping them slightly, arrange the slices in one or two rows in a shallow
baking-serving dish about 1 2 inches long and 8 inches wide. Place the on
ions, carrots and turnips decoratively on top of the meat, then pour the
gelatin mixture over the beef and vegetables. Cover the dish with foil or
plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 or 3 hours, until the spiced beef is
thoroughly chilled and the coating is frm to the touch. Serve the beef di
rectly from the baking dish.
54
Swiss Steak
To serve 4
V cup four
2 tablespoons dry mustard
1 V teaspoons salt
V teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
2 pounds round steak i n a l - inch
thick slice, trimmed of excess fat
tomatoes, page 31 ), or substitute
2 cups chopped drained canne
tomatoes
cut crosswise into Y- inch-thick
slices
V cup fnely chopped celery
2 tablespoons W orcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon dark-brown sugar
V cup sour cream
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . Combine the four, mustard, salt and pepper,
and sift them together into a deep platter. Coat the round steak on both
sides with the four mixture, then pound the seasoning i nto the meat with
a kitchen mallet or the side of your fst. Cut the steak into four or eight
equal pieces.
In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-inch skillet at least 3 inches deep, or in a Dutch
oven, heat the oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it.
Brown the steak in the hot oil, in two batches if necessary to avoid over
crowding the pan. Turn the steak with tongs or a spatula and regulate the
heat so that the meat colors richly and evenly without burning. As the
steak pieces brown, transfer them t< a plate.
Add the tomatoes, onions, celery, Worcestershire sauce and brown
sugar to the fat remaining in the skillet and bring to a boil over high heat,
stirring and scraping in any brown particles that cling to the bottom and
sides of the pan. Return the steak to the pan along with the liquid that
has accumulated around it and turn it about in the vegetable mixture
until evenly coated.
Cover tightly and braise in the middle of the oven for 1 V hours, or
until the steak is tender and shows no resistance when pierced with the
point of a small, sharp knife. Transfer the steak to a platter and drape
with foil to keep it warm while you prepare the sauce.
Skim as much fat as possible from the surface of the vegetable mixture
remaining i n the skillet. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, stir in the
sour cream, and cook for a minute or so to warm it through. Taste for
seasoning and ladle the sauce over the steak.
5 5
Swedish Pot Roast
To serve 6 to 8
\ cup vegetable oil
A 4- to 4Y-pound boneless beef
roast, preferably bottom round,
rump, brisket or chuck, trimmed
of excess fat and tied securely in
3 or 4 places
1 Y cups fnely chopped onions
3 tablespoons four
2 cups beef stock, fresh or canned
\ cup distil led white vinegar
fnely chopped
10 fat anchovy fllets, drained and
rinsed thoroughly i n a sieve
under cold running water
1 teaspoon whole black
peppercorns, bruised with the
side of a cleaver or heavy knife,
1 large bay leaf and 2 sprigs fresh
parsley, wrapped together in
cheesecloth and tied with a string
Salt
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . In a heavy 5- to 6-quart casserole equipped
with a tight-ftting lid, warm the oil over moderate heat until a light haze
forms above it. Pat the beef completely dry with paper towels and brown
it in the hot oil, turning the roast with two spoons and regulating the
heat so that it colors richly and evenly on all sides without burning. Set
the beef aside on a plate.
Pour of all but a thin flm of fat from the casserole and add the onions.
Stirring frequently, cook over moderate heat for 8 to 1 0 minutes, until
they are soft and delicately browned. Stir in the four and brown sugar
and, when they are thoroughly absorbed, pour in the beef stock and
vinegar. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly with a whisk
until the mixture is smooth and fai rly thick.
Add the carrot, anchovy fllets, and the wrapped peppercorns, bay leaf,
and parsley. Return the roast and the liquid that has accumulated around
it to the casserole, and bring to a boil over high heat.
Cover the casserole tightly and roast the beef in the lower third of the
oven for about 3 hours . Check from time to time and lower the heat if nec
essary to keep the l iquid i n the casserole at a slow simmer. When the beef
is done, it should be tender and ofer no resistance when pierced with the
tines of a long-handled fork.
Transfer the pot roast to a heated platter and drape it loosely with fo!l
to keep it warm while you prepare the gravy. Discard the wrapped pepper
corns, bay leaf and parsley, and skim as much fat as possible from the
surface of the gravy. Then boil bri skly, uncovered, over high heat until it
reaches the thickness and intensity of favor you prefer. Taste and add
salt and a few grindings of pepper if needed. Pour the gravy into a heated
sauceboat and serve it separately with the pot roast.
56
Swedish Meatballs
To serve 8
1 large baking potato, peeled and
quartered
Y pound butter
1 pound lean boneless beef, ground
twice
Y pound lean boneless pork,
ground twice
1 cup heavy cream
1 egg
3 tablespoons soft fresh crumbs
made from pumpernickel bread,
trimmed of all crusts and
pulverized i n a blender or fnely
parsley
2 teaspoons salt
Y to 1 cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons four
Y cup fnely cut fresh dill leaves,
or substitute 1 tablespoon dried
dill weed
Drop the potato quarters into a small saucepan flled with enough boiling
water to cover them completely and boil briskly until they are tender and
show no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small, sharp
knife. Drain of the water and slide the pan back and forth over low heat
for a minute or so to dry the potatoes completely. Then transfer the po
tato quarters to a deep bowl and mash them to a smooth puree with the
back of a fork.
In the same pan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat.
When the foam begins to subside, add the onions and, stirring frequent
ly, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not
brown. With a rubber spatula, scrape the entire contents of the pan over
the potato puree.
Add the beef, pork, Y cup of the cream, the egg, pumpernickel crumbs,
parsley, allspice and 1 Y teaspoons of the salt, and knead the ingredients
together. Then, with a large wooden spoon, beat the mixture vigorously
until it is light and fufy. To shape each meatball, scoop up 1 tablespoon
of the mixture and pat and roll it into a ball about 1 inch in diameter ; you
should have about 90 meatballs.
In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with
2 tablespoons of the oil over high heat. Add the meatballs, a dozen or so
at a time, to the hot fat, turning them frequently with a spatula and reg
ulating the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. As
each batch browns, transfer the meatballs to a platter and add 2 more ta
blespoons of butter and 2 tablespoons of oil to the skillet.
In another skillet melt 2 more tablespoons of butter over moderate
Continued on next page 57
heat. Add the four and mix to a paste. Stirring constantly with a wire
whisk, pour in the chicken stock in a thin stream and cook over high heat
until the sauce comes to a boil, thickens and is smooth. Lower the heat,
stir the remaining Y cup of cream into the sauce, and add the dill, the re
maining Y teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of pepper.
Add the meatballs and the liquid that has accumulated around them to
the skillet, and stir gently until the meatballs are evenly moistened with
the sauce. Simmer partially covered for 1 0 minutes, until the meatballs
are fully cooked and no trace of pink shows when they are pierced deeply
with the point of a small knife. Taste for seasoning and serve at once
from a heated bowl or deep platter.
Stufed Spareribs
To serve 4
2 strips of spareribs, each about 1 0
inches long, trimmed of excess
fat (about 3 to 3 Y pounds in all )
3 teaspoons salt
1 pound pitted dried prunes, halved
( about 2 cups )
4 large frm apples, preferably green
cooking apples, peeled, cored and
cut into ;.-inch-thick slices
Y cup light-brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . Sprinkle the meaty sides of the spareribs with
2 teaspoons of the salt and a few grindings of pepper. Place one strip of
ribs meat side down and spread it evenly with all the prunes and apples.
Sprinkle with the brown sugar, the remaining salt and the cinnamon, and
cover with the other strip of spareribs, meat side up. Tie the two to
gether, crosswise and lengthwise, securely enclosing the stufng. Place
the ribs on a rack set in a shallow roasting pan and bake in the middle of
the oven for 1 Y hours, or until the ribs show no resistance when pierced
with the tip of a knife. Cut away the strings and serve the spareribs.
58
Spareribs and Sauerkraut
To serve 8 to 1 0
2 pounds fresh sauerkraut
4 pounds spareribs, trimmed of
excess fat and cut into 2- or 3- rib
serving pieces
2 teaspoons salt
pepper
V cup vegetable oil
cut crosswise into V- inch-thick
slices
fnely grated
Y cup water
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
4 medium-sized tart cooking apples,
peeled, cored and cut into Y-
inch rings
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . Drain the sauerkraut, wash it thoroughly under
cold running water, and then let it soak in a pot of water for 1 0 to 20
minutes, depending upon its acidity. A handful at a time, squeeze the
sauerkraut until it is completely dry. Then separate the clumps into strands
and set the sauerkraut aside.
Pat the spareribs dry with paper towels and season them on both sides
with 1 teaspoon of the salt and the Y teaspoon of pepper. In a heavy 1 2-
inch skillet, warm the oil over high heat until a light haze forms above it.
Brown the spareribs, 4 or 5 at a time, turning them frequently with tongs
and regulating the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burn
ing. As they brown, transfer the ribs to a plate.
quently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and del icately
browned. Stir i n the sauerkraut, carrot, wine, water, the remaining tea
spoon of salt and the caraway seeds.
Spread hal f of the sauerkraut mixture on the bottom of a heavy 5 - to
6-quart casserole and cover it with the spareribs, arranged in one layer if
possible. Spread the remaining sauerkraut mixture over the ribs and
scatter the apple rings on top. Cover the casserole and bake in the middle
of the oven for 1 hour. Remove the lid and conti nue to bake for about 30
minutes longer, or until t he sauerkraut has absorbed most of the liquid and
the meat on the spareribs shows no resistance when pierced with the
point of a small, sharp knife. Taste for seasoning and serve at once,
directly from the casserole.
59
Meat Loaf with Bacon
To serve 6
2 pounds lean ground beef chuck
1 pound lean ground pork
2 cups fnely chopped onions
1 tablespoon fnely chopped garlic
1 egg
6 slices lean bacon
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . Combine the beef, pork, onions, bread crumbs,
garlic, thyme and egg in a deep bowl and knead them vigorously with
your hands. Then, with a large wooden spoon, beat until the mixture is
smooth and fufy.
Arrange 4 of the bacon slices side by side in a large shallow roasting
pan. Pat the meat mixture into a rectangular loaf about 9 inches long, 5
inches wide, and 3 or 4 inches high. Place the loaf in the pan on top of
the bacon and drape the remaining bacon lengthwise over the loaf.
Bake in the middle of the oven for about 1 Y hours. To test for done
ness, pierce the loaf deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp
knife. The j uices that trickle out should be clear yellow; if they are still
tinged with pink, bake the meat loaf until the j uices are clear.
Using a wide metal spatula, transfer the meat loaf to a heated platter
and serve at once.
Veal Stew with Dumplings
To serve 8 to 1 0
VEAL STEW
6 pounds boneless breast of veal,
trimmed of excess fat and
cartilage and cut into 2 Y-by-
1 Y- inch strips
1 teaspoon salt
6 to 10 tablespoons butter
6Y cups chicken stock, fresh or
canned
Y cup four
3 sprigs fresh parsley
Pat the strips of veal completely dry with paper towels. Place the meat in
a bowl . Add 1 teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of black pepper, and
toss about with a spoon to season the meat evenly. In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-
inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with the oil over high heat.
60
When the foam subsides, add 5 or 6 pieces of veal and, turning fre
quently, cook only until they are no longer pink. Do not let them brown.
Transfer the veal to a bowl and repeat the entire procedure with the re
maining pieces, cooki ng them 5 or 6 at a time over high heat and adding
up to 4 tablespoons more butter to the skillet if necessary.
Pour of all the fat remaining in the skillet and i n its place add Y cup
of the chicken stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, meanwhile scraping
in any brown particles that cling to the bottom and si des of the pan. Pour
the stock over the veal and set aside.
In a heavy 6- to 8- quart casserole, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over
moderate heat. Add the onions and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5
minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Add the four
and mix well . Stirring the mixture constantly with a wire whisk, pour in
the remaining 6 cups of chicken stock in a slow, thin stream and cook
until the liquid comes to a boil, thickens slightly and is smooth.
Stir in the veal and the stock from the bowl and add the parsley, bay
leaf and thyme. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for
1 Y hours, or until the veal is tender and shows no resistance when
pierced with the point of a small, sharp knife.
DUMPLINGS
2 cups milk
Y teaspoon salt
Y cup farina
6 tablespoons fnely chopped fresh parsley
Y teaspoon white pepper
About 1 0 minutes before the veal is done, prepare the dumplings in
the following fashion : In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the milk, 2
tablespoons of butter and Y teaspoon of salt, and bring to a boil over mod
erate heat. Stirring constantly, pour in the farina i n a thin stream and
cook until the mixture is thick enough to draw away from the sides of the
pan in a soli d mass. Remove the pan from the heat and beat i n the egg,
parsley and white pepper.
Y cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon j uice
With a slotted spoon, transfer the veal strips to a plate. Strai n the en
tire contents of the casserole through a fne sieve, pressing down hard on
the onions and herbs to extract all their j uices before discarding them. Re
turn the liquid to the casserole, add the cream and bring to a simmer over
moderate heat. Stir i n the lemon j uice and taste for seasoning. Return the
veal to the casserole and mix wel l with the sauce. Then drop the dump
lings into the simmering sauce by the teaspoonful . Cover tightly and
cook for 5 or 6 minutes, or until the dumplings are tender. Serve at once,
directly from the casserole.
61
Veal Steaks with Apple Rings in Cream
To serve 6
2 medium-sized apples, cored but
not peeled, and cut crosswise into
l-inch rings
6 fve- to six-ounce boneless veal
round steaks, sliced Y inch thick
and trimmed of excess fat
2 teaspoons salt
l teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
Y cup four
l cup vegetable oil
Y cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon strained fresh lemon
j uice
In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over
moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the apple rings
and cook, turning them frequently with a slotted spatula, until they are
tender and delicately browned. Remove the skillet from the heat and
cover to keep the apple rings warm.
Pat the veal steaks completely dry with paper towels and season them
with the salt and pepper. One at a time, dip the steaks in the four to coat
both sides, then shake of the excess four.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter with the oil in a heavy 1 2-
inch skillet. Fry the steaks for about 4 minutes on each side, or until they
are tender and show no resistance when pi erced with the point of a small,
sharp knife. Regulate the heat so that the steaks brown richly and evenly
without burning.
Transfer them to a heated platter and drape foil over them to keep
them warm while you prepare the sauce. Pour of the fat remaining in the
skillet and in its place add the cream. Bring to a simmer over moderate
heat, meanwhile scraping in the browned particles that cling to the bottom
and sides of the pan. Reduce the heat to low and stir until the cream
thickens slightly. Stir in the lemon j uice and taste for seasoning.
To serve, arrange the apple rings on top of the veal steaks and pour
the sauce over them.
62
Braised Lamb Shoulder with Green Beans
To serve 6 to 8
Y cup fnely chopped carrots
A 4}- to 5-pound boned lamb
shoulder, trimmed of all fat and
outer skin, rolled tightly and tied
i n 3 or 4 places
canned
1 teaspoon crumbled dried rosemary
1 teaspoon plus 3 tablespoons salt
pepper
6 quarts water
3 pounds frm fresh green string
beans, trimmed
Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 . In a heavy casserole j ust large enough to hold
the lamb shoulder comfortably, melt the butter over moderate heat. When
the foam begins to subside, add the onions, carrots and garlic and, stir
ring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft but not
brown. Set the casserole aside of the heat.
Pat the lamb shoulder completely dry with paper towels. Pour the oil
into a heavy 1 0- to 1 2- inch skillet and heat until a l ight haze forms above
it. Brown the lamb in the hot oil, turning it frequently and regulating the
heat so that it colors richly and evenly on all sides without burning.
Transfer the lamb to the casserole. Pour of the fat remaining in the
skillet and i n its place add the chicken stock. Bring to a boil over high
heat, meanwhile scraping in the brown particles that cling to the bottom
and sides of the pan. Stir the rosemary, 1 teaspoon of salt and the pepper
into the stock, then pour the mixture over the lamb.
Bring the casserole to a boil over high heat, cover tightly, and braise i n
the middle of the oven for 3 to 3 Y hours, turning the lamb over three
or four times . The lamb is done when it shows no resistance i f pierced
deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife. Place the lamb on
a heated platter, cut away the strings, and drape loosely with foil to keep
it warm while you prepare the beans and the sauce.
Bring 6 quarts of water and the remaining 3 tablespoons salt to a boil
over high heat in a large pot. Drop the beans in by the handful, reduce
the heat to moderate, and boil uncovered for 1 0 to 1 5 minutes, until the
beans are tender. Do not overcook them. Immediately drain them in a
large sieve or colander and arrange them attractively around the lamb.
Meanwhile, strain the contents of the casserole through a fne sieve set
over a small saucepan, pressing down hard on the vegetables with the
back of a spoon to extract all their j uices before discarding them. Skim
the fat from the surface, then boil the strained sauce briskly, uncovered,
until it has the intensity of favor you desire. Taste for seasoning, pour
the sauce into a bowl or sauceboat, and serve with the lamb.
63
Potato Sausage
To make 4 sausages, each about 1 8
inches long
Four 24-inch lengths of hog sausage
casing
6 or 7 medium-sized boiling
potatoes ( about 2 Y pounds ) ,
peeled and cut into chunks
1 large onion, peeled and cut into
chunks
% pound lean ground beef,
preferably chuck
Y pound lean ground pork
1 teaspoon fnely chopped garl ic
Y teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon whole black
peppercorns, coarsely crushed
with a mortar and pestle or
spread between wax paper and
crushed with a rolling pin
1 tablespoon salt
Y teaspoon saltpeter
Place the sausage casi ng in a bowl and pour in enough lukewarm water to
cover it by at least 1 i nch. Soak at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or
until th

casing is soft and pliable.
Meanwhile put the potatoes and onion through the coarsest blade of a
food grinder into a deep bowl. Add the beef, pork, garlic, allspice, sugar,
crushed pepper, salt and saltpeter. Knead the mixture vigorously with
both hands, then beat with a wooden spoon until smooth and fufy. To
taste for seasoning, fry a spoonful of the potato-and-meat mixture in a
small skillet until no trace of pink remains. Then, if you wish, stir i nto
the uncooked mixture any additional seasonings you think it needs. Drape
a dampened towel over the bowl and let the sausage flling rest at room
temperature for about an hour.
Wash the sausage casing thoroughly but gently under cold, slowly run
ning water to remove all traces of the salt in which i t was preserved.
Hold one end of each length up to the faucet and run cold water through
to clean the inside of the casing.
To make each sausage, tie a knot in a length of sausage casing about 3
inches from one end. Fit the open end snugly over the funnel ( or "horn" )
on the sausage-making attachment of a food grinder. Then carefully inch
the rest of the casing up onto the funnel , squeezing it together like the
folds of an accordion.
Spoon the sausage flling into the mouth of the grinder and, with a
wooden pestle, push it slowly through into the casing. As you fll it, the
casing will expand and gradually ease away from the funnel i n a ropelike
coil . Fill the casing to within a few inches of the funnel end but do not
try to stuf it too tightly or it may burst. Slip the sausage of the funnel
and tie another knot at the open end. Knot and fll the remaining three
lengths of casing in similar fashion.
You may cook the sausages immediately or cover them tightly with
64
aluminum foil or plastic wrap and place them in the refrigerator for a day
or two to develop favor. Tightly covered they can safely be kept refriger
ated for fve or six days.
Before cooking a sausage, prick the casing in fve or six places with the
point of a small skewer or sharp knife. Coil the sausage i n concentric cir
cles i n a heavy 8- to 1 0- inch skillet and pour in enough water to cover the
sausage completely. Then bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Cook un
covered for 30 to 40 minutes, until the liquid i n the pan has evaporated
and only the fat given of by the sausage remains.
Reduce the heat to low and, turning the sausage once or twice with
tongs, conti nue frying for about 1 0 mi nutes longer, or until it i s brown
all over. If you prefer, you may slice the poached sausage into V- inch
thick rounds and fry the slices in a little vegetable oil until no trace of
pink shows in the meat.
NOTE : If you do not have a food grinder with a sausage-stufng attach
ment, combine the potatoes, onion, meats and seasonings as described
above. Tie a knot about 3 inches from one end of one length of casing
and ft the open end over the spout of a wide-based funnel, easing most
of the casing up onto the spout. Then spoon the meat mixture into the
mouth of the funnel and push it through into the casing with your fngers .
Knot the open end and roll the sausage gently on a frm fat surface
to distribute the flling evenly.
Pork Sausages in Sour Cream
To serve 4 to 6 as a breakfast meat
1 pound breakfast-type li nk pork
sausage, separated into individual
sausages
V cup water
1 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon four
Combine the sausages and water in a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-i nch skillet and
bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly, and
simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the cover and, turning the sausages oc
casionally with tongs, cook over moderate heat until all the liquid in the
pan has evaporated and the sausages are brown on all sides.
Transfer the sausages to a heated platter and drape foil over them to
keep them warm while you prepare the sauce. With a whisk, beat the
sour cream, four and mustard together in a small bowl and pour the mix
ture i nto the fat remaining in the skillet . Whisking constantly with a
wire whisk, cook over moderate heat for 2 or 3 minutes, until the sauce
has thickened slightly. Do not let it boil . Taste for seasoning, then spoon
the sauce over the sausages and serve at once.
65
Oxtail Stew
To serve 4 to 6
3 pounds oxtails, cut into 2Y-
inch pieces
1 teaspoon salt
teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
Y cup all-purpose four
cup vegetable oil
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut
into bits
cup scraped, fnely chopped
carrots
Y cup dry red wine
1 Y cups chicken stock, fresh or
canned
2 tablespoons tomato paste
teaspoon ground thyme
1 small bay leaf
Preheat the oven to 3 2 5
. Season the oxtails with the salt and pepper,

then roll the pieces i n the four one at a time and shake briskly to rid
them of excess four.
In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2- i nch skillet, heat the oil and butter bits over high
heat until the butter is melted and the mixture is very hot but not smok
ing. Brown the oxtails, 6 or 8 pieces at a time, turning them with tongs
and regulating the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burn
ing. As they brown, transfer them to a heavy 3- to 4-quart enameled or
stainless-steel casserole.
When all the oxtails have been browned, pour of and di scard all but 2
or 3 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the onions, carrot and garlic
and, stirring constantly, fry over moderate heat for 6 to 8 minutes, or
until the vegetables are lightly colored. Pour in the wine and let it boil
for a minute or two, then add the chicken stock, tomato paste, thyme and
bay leaf. Bring the mixture back to a boil, then pour it over the oxtails.
Bring the casserole to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly, then
cover it tightly and place it in the middle of the oven, regulating the heat
if necessary to keep the casserole at a slow simmer. Cook the oxtail stew
for about 3 hours, until tender.
With a l arge spoon, skim of and discard as much fat as possible from
the sauce. Taste for seasoning, and serve the oxtail stew directly from the
casserole or from a large heated tureen.
66
Bufalo Roast
To serve 14 to 1 6
MARINADE
2 cups hard cider
2 cups fresh sweet cider
Y cup red wine vinegar
coarsely chopped
coarsely chopped
3 sprigs fresh parsley
6 whole j uniper berries
A 7-pound eye rib bufalo roast, or
substitute venison, reindeer or
any other game meat
In a 2- to 3- quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan combine the hard
cider, sweet cider, vinegar, onions, carrot, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, j uniper
berries and peppercorns. Bring the marinade to a boil over high heat,
reduce the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for 30 minutes.
Pour the marinade into a deep crock or a stainless-steel or enameled
casserole large enough to contain the meat.
Cool the marinade to room temperature, then add the meat and turn it
over to coat i t evenly on all sides. The marinade should come at least half
way up the si des of the meat ; add as much water as necessary. Cover with
a lid or with foil and marinate the meat at room temperature for at least
24 hours, turning it over every few hours .
Preheat the oven to 5 00 . Remove the meat from the marinade, pat it
completely dry with paper towels, and place it on a rack i n a large shal
low roasting pan. For the most predi ctable results, insert the tip of a meat
thermometer at least 2 inches into the thickest part of the roast . Strain the
marinade through a fne sieve set over a bowl , reserve the liquid, and dis
card the vegetables and seasonings.
Roast the meat in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes. Reduce the
heat to 3 5 0 , and baste the meat with Y cup of the marinade. Continue
to roast, basting with a similar amount of the marinade every 1 5 minutes,
until the meat is cooked to your taste. A meat thermometer will register
1 30 to 1 40

when the meat is rare, 1 5 0 to 1 60 when medium, and
1 60 to 1 70 when it is well done. If you are not using a thermometer,
start timing the roast after you reduce the heat to 3 50 . For this size
roast, you can estimate approximately 1 6 minutes to the pound for rare
meat, 1 8 minutes to the pound for medium rare, 20 minutes to the pound
for medium, and 26 minutes to the pound for well done. Transfer to a
heated platter and let it rest for 1 5 minutes for easier carving.
This roast is best accompanied by peeled potatoes cooked in the roast
ing pan with the meat.
67
Stewed Rabbit
To serve 6 to 8
1 Y cups beer
1 Y cups white distilled vi negar
1 large onion, peeled and thinly
sl iced
2 tablespoons mixed pickli ng spice
1 teaspoon salt
8 whole black peppercorns, coarsely
crushed with a kitchen mallet or
the side of a cleaver
A 5- to 6-pound mature rabbit, or
two 2\ to 3- pound rabbits,
thoroughly defrosted if frozen,
cut into serving pieces
3 sl ices lean bacon, cut into
V- inch dice
1 tablespoon sugar
3 gingersnaps, pulverized in a
blender or crushed with a rolling
pin
Y cup sour cream
Combine the beer, vinegar, onion, pickling spice, brown sugar, salt and
peppercorns i n a 2- to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and
bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and let the mar
inade cool to room temperature. Place the rabbit pieces in a heavy 6- to 8-
quart enameled casserole, pour in the marinade and turn the pieces about
to moisten them evenly. Cover tightly with a l i d or foil and refrigerate
for at least 6 hours, turning the pieces two or three times .
Drain the pieces and pat them completely dry with paper towels. Strain
the marinade through a fne sieve into a bowl and set aside; discard the
onion slices and the spices.
Wipe the casserole dry, add the bacon dice, and fry them over moderate
heat, stirring frequently until the bits are crisp and brown and have ren
dered all their fat. With a slotted spoon, set them aside on paper towels
to drai n.
Dip 3 or 4 rabbit pieces in Y cup of the four and turn them to coat
all sides ; shake vigorously to remove the excess four. Melt the butter in
the fat remaining i n the casserole. When the foam subsides, brown the
rabbit i n the hot fat, turning it with tongs or a spatula and regulating the
heat so that it colors richly and evenly without burning. Transfer the rab
bit to a plate, then four and brown the remaining pieces i n the same way.
Return all the rabbit pieces to the casserole, sprinkle them with the ta
blespoon of sugar and pour in V cup of the reserved marinade. Cover
tightly and simmer over low heat for 1 to 1 Y hours, or until the rabbit
is tender and shows no resistance when pierced with the point of a small,
sharp knife. Arrange the rabbit pieces attractively on a heated platter and
drape with foil to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce.
68
Skim the fat from the surface of the liquid remaining in the casserole.
Bring to a boil over high heat and mix in 3 tablespoons of four and the
pulverized gingersnaps. Stirring the mixture constantly with a wire whisk,
pour in 2 cups of the reserved marinade and cook until the sauce comes to
a boil, thickens heavily and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low and sim
mer the sauce for 2 or 3 minutes. In a bowl, blend the sour cream with
the remaining tablespoon of four . Stirring the sauce with the whisk,
pour in the sour cream and cook until it is heated through. Add the re
served bacon bits and taste for seasoning, then ladle the sauce over the
rabbit and serve at once.
Smothered Reindeer Steaks
To serve 4
2 tablespoons vegetable oi l
3 large onions ( about 2 pounds ) ,
peeled and sliced crosswise into
Y- inch-thick rings
2 reindeer leg round steaks, each
about 1 2 ounces, cut Y inch
thick and with the parchmentlike
fell removed
In a heavy 1 2-inch skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in 1 table
spoon of the oil over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside,
drop in the onions and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently and
regulating the heat so that they brown deeply without burning. With a
slotted spoon, transfer the onions to a plate and cover with foi l to keep
them warm while frying the steaks.
Add the remaining butter and oil to the skillet and when the fat be
gins to sizzle add the steaks . Fry them over moderate heat for 4 or 5 min
utes on each side, or until they are done to your liking. Ideally the steaks
should be slightly pink inside.
Transfer the steaks to a heated platter, spread the fried onions over
them, and sprinkle the top with the parsley. Serve at once.
69
Venison Sauerbraten
To serve 8
41 cups cold water
cut crosswise into Y- inch-thick
slices
3 small bay leaves
3 whole cloves
41 to 5 pounds venison stewing
meat in 1 piece
Y cup four
1 cup dry red wine
Salt
Starting three days ahead, combine the vinegar, 3 cups of the water, the
onions, bay leaves, cloves and peppercorns in a 3- to 4-quart enameled or
stainless-steel saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the
pan from the heat and let the marinade cool to room temperature.
Place the venison in a deep crock or a deep enameled or stainless-steel
pot j ust large enough to hold it comfortably and pour the marinade over
it. The marinade should come at least halfway up the sides of the meat ; if
necessary, stir in more water. Turn the venison in the marinade to moisten
it on all sides. Then cover the pot tightly with foil or plastic wrap and
refrigerate for at least three days, turning the meat over twice a day.
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . Remove the meat from the marinade and
pat it completely dry with paper towels. Scoop out and reserve about half
of the onion slices. Strain the remaining marinade through a fne sieve
into a bowl and discard the remaining onions and the other seasonings.
In a heavy 5 - to 6-quart casserole, melt the butter with the oil over mod
erate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the venison and brown
it on all sides, turning it frequently and regulating the heat so that it
browns richly and evenly without burning. Add the reserved onions and
1 quart of the marinade, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover tightly
and braise in the middle of the oven for about 2 hours, or until the ven
ison is tender and shows no resistance when pierced deeply with the
point of a small skewer or sharp knife.
Transfer the venison to a heated platter and drape it loosely with foil
to keep it warm while you prepare the sauce.
Strain the cooking liquid through a fne sieve set over a bowl, pressing
down hard on the onions to extract all their j uice before discarding them.
Measure the liquid, pour it into a small saucepan and skim the fat from
the surface. You will need 2 1 cups of liquid for the sauce. If you have
more liquid, boil it briskly over high heat until it is reduced to that
amount; if you have less, add some of the reserved marinade. Make a
smooth paste of the four and 1 cup of cold water, then stir in the re
maining cup of water.
70
Bring the cooking liquid to a simmer over moderate heat. Stirring con
stantly with a wire whisk, pour in the four mixture in a slow, thin stream,
and cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil, thickens l ightly
and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 3 or 4 minutes to re
move the taste of four. Stir in the wine and season to taste with salt and a
few grindings of pepper. Pour the sauce into a bowl or sauceboat and
serve it with the venison.
Venison Mincemeat
To make about 2 Y quarts
2 pounds boneless venison
Y pound beef suet, fnely chopped
1 Y pounds apples, peeled, cored
and coarsely chopped ( 4 cups )
2 pints sour cherries, pitted
1 Y cups seedless raisins
Y cup fnely chopped citron
Y cup candied orange peel
Y cup candied lemon peel
Y cup lemon j uice
2 teaspoons grated lemon rind
Y cup orange j uice
4 teaspoons grated orange rind
Y teaspoon salt
pepper
2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground mace
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 quart apple cider
1 cup brandy
Place the venison i n an 8- to 1 0-quart pot or casserole and add enough
water to cover the meat by 1 i nch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then re
duce the heat and s immer, partially covered, for 2 hours, or until the
meat ofers only the slightest resistance when pierced with the tip of a
small, sharp knife. Drain the venison, pat it dry with paper towels, and
cut it into l - inch chunks. Mince the meat by putting i t through the me
dium blade of a food grinder, or chop it fne with a sharp knife.
Transfer the ground venison to a 3- to 4-quart casserole and add all
the remaining ingredients except the brandy. Bring to a boil over high
heat, then lower the heat, and simmer partially covered for 1 Y hours,
stirring frequently to prevent the mixture from sticking to the pan. Re
move from the heat and stir in the brandy, then ladle the mincemeat i nto
hot, sterilized j ars following the directions for canning and sealing on
page 1 06. Store at room temperature for at least 2 weeks before using as a
flling for pies or tarts.
7 1
Roast Leg of Venison
To serve 10 to 1 2
1 Y cups fne! y chopped onions
fnely chopped
1 teaspoon fnely chopped garl ic
3 cups dry red wine
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon cold water
6 whole j uniper berries and 1 0
whole black peppercorns,
wrapped in a towel and coarsely
crushed with a rolling pi n
1 tablespoon salt
A 10- to 1 1 -pound leg of venison
1 tablespoon cornstarch
In a 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, melt the butter
over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the onions, car
rot, celery and garlic and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes,
until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Stir in the wine, 1 cup of the
water, the bay leaf, the j uniper berries and peppercorns, and the salt, and
bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the pan from the heat and let the
marinade cool to room temperature.
Place the venison in a roasting pan large enough to hold i t comfort
ably, pour the marinade over it, and turn the meat in the marinade to
moisten it on all sides. Cover tightly with foil or plastic wrap and re
frigerate for at least 1 2 hours, turning the meat two or three times .
Preheat the oven to 425 . Insert the tip of a meat thermometer at least
2 inches into the thickest part of the meat, and roast the venison on the
middle shelf of the oven for 1 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to 3 75 and con
tinue roasting for 1 hour and 1 5 minutes longer, basting the venison
every 1 5 minutes with the l iquids in the bottom of the pan. When done,
the meat thermometer should register 1 40 to 1 5 0 , and the roast should
be slightly pink. Transfer it to a large heated platter and let it rest for 1 0
minutes or so for easier carving.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. Strain the cooking liquid through a fne
sieve set over a bowl, pressing down hard on the vegetables to extract all
their j uice before discarding them. Measure the liquid, pour it into a
small saucepan and skim the fat from the surface. You will need 2 cups
of liquid for the sauce. If you have more, boil it briskly until it is reduced
to that amount ; i f you have less, add as much water as you need to make
the required amount. Make a smooth paste of the cornstarch and the re
maining tablespoon of cold water.
Bring the cooking liquid to a simmer over moderate heat and, stirring
constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the cornstarch mixture. Continue to
simmer until the sauce thickens lightly and is smooth. Taste for sea
soning, pour the sauce into a bowl or sauceboat, and serve at once with
the roast venison.
72
Elk Meatballs in Sour Cream
To make about 4 dozen l - inch
meatballs
2 pounds ground elk or other
ground venison
1 pound lean ground pork
cup milk
1 teaspoon crumbled dried thyme
1 tablespoon salt
pepper
canned
1 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons four
2 teaspoons dry mustard
In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over
moderate heat. Add the onions and garlic and, stirring frequently, cook
for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown.
With a rubber spatula, scrape the contents of the skillet i nto a deep
bowl. Set the pan aside. Add the elk, pork, bread crumbs, egg, milk, pars
ley, thyme, salt and pepper to the onion-garlic mixture and knead vigor
ously with both hands. Then beat the mixture with a wooden spoon
until i t i s smooth and fufy. To shape each meatball, pinch of about 1
tablespoon of the mixture and roll it into a ball 1 inch in diameter.
Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter with the oil in the reserved
skillet and brown the meatballs, 1 0 or 1 2 at a time. Turn the balls fre
quently with a slotted spatula and regulate the heat so that they color
richly and evenly without burning. As they brown, transfer them to a plate.
Pour of the fat remaining in the skillet and i n its place add the chicken
stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, meanwhile scraping i n the brown
particles that cling to the bottom and sides of the pan. Return all the meat
balls to the skillet together with the l iqui d that has accumulated around
them and turn the balls about to moisten them evenly. Reduce the hat
and simmer partially covered for 20 minutes, or until no trace of pink
shows when a meatball is pierced with the point of a knife.
Transfer the meatballs to a heated platter and drape foil over them to
keep them warm. With a wire whisk, beat the sour cream, four and mus
tard together in a bowl until they are well blended. Then add the sour
cream mixture to the liquid remaining in the skillet and, whisking
constantly, cook over low heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until the sauce is
smooth and lightly thickened. Taste for , seasoning, then pour the sauce
over the meatball s. Serve at once with hot buttered noodles or rice.
73
Mashed Turnips
To serve 8 to 1 0
3 pounds yellow turnips, peeled and
cut i nto -inch cubes ( about 7
cups )
1 teaspoons salt
softened
pepper
teaspoon sugar
teaspoon ground nutmeg,
Place the turnips in a 6- to 8-quart pot and pour in enough water to cover
them by about 1 inch. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt and bring to a boil over
high heat. Lower the heat, partially cover the pan, and simmer for 20 min
utes, or until the turnips show no resistance when pierced with the tip of
a small, sharp knife. Drain in a colander, discarding the water, and re
turn the turnips to the pot in which they were cooked. Slide the pan back
and forth over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until they are dry. Then, in a
heated mixing bowl, puree the turnips either by mashing them with a
potato masher or by forcing them through a potato ricer or through a
coarse sieve with the back of a spoon. Beat the butter i nto the puree a table
spoon at a time, then beat in the remai ning salt and the pepper, sugar and
Y teaspoon of the nutmeg. Taste for seasoning and serve at once in a
heated vegetabl e dish, sprinkled with the remaining nutmeg.
74
Baked Stufed Acorn Squash
To serve 4
2 acorn squash, about % pound
each
4 teaspoons butter
1 Y teaspoons salt
Hl teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
Y cup light cream
Preheat the oven to 400 . With a sharp knife, cut each of the squash in
half lengthwise. Scrape out all the seeds and with a spoon remove any
stringy flaments and fbers. Drop a teaspoon of butter into each half and
sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Arrange the squash halves side by side,
hollow surfaces up, i n a shallow, ovenproof baking dish large enough to
hold them comfortably. Pour enough boiling water down the sides of the
dish to rise about 1 i nch around the squash. Bake i n the center of the
oven for about 50 mi nutes, or until the squash are tender and show no re
sistance when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife.
To make the stufng i n a blender, pour all the melted butter from the
squash i nto the j ar of the blender and set aside. With a small spoon,
scoop out the pulp of each squash, being careful not to pierce through the
shell . Reserve the shells. Add the pulp to the blender along with the
cream and nutmeg. Blend at high speed for about 30 to 40 seconds, then
stop the machine and scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula. Re
cover the j ar and blend again for about 30 seconds longer, until the mix
ture is a smooth puree. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt, pepper
and nutmeg if you like.
To make the stufng by hand, pour all the melted butter from the
squash i nto a mixing bowl and, after removing the pulp from the squash
as described above, add it to the bowl . Mash and beat the pulp and butter
together with a large wooden spoon, then beat in the cream, a tablespoon
at a time. Add the nutmeg and continue to beat until the mixture is a
smooth puree. Taste and add more salt, pepper and nutmeg if you like.
However you have made the stufng, spoon it i nto each scooped-out
acorn half, mounding the tops slightly. Return them to the baking dish,
arranging them as before. Place the dish in the center of the 400 oven
and bake for 20 minutes, until the stufng is a light golden brown. Serve
at once directly from the dish.
75
Stufed Onions
To serve 6
6 eight-ounce onions, peeled
4 or 5 slices homemade-type white
bread, trimmed of crusts and cut
i nto Y-i nch cubes ( about 1 cup)
Y pound breakfast-type sausage
meat
Y teaspoon crumbled dried sage
Y teaspoon salt
softened butter evenly over the bottom of a baking dish large enough to
hold the onions in one layer. Set aside.
Drop the onions into enough boiling water to cover them by at least 1
inch and boil briskly for 1 0 minutes. Drain the onions and, when they
are cool enough to handle, cut a slice about 1 inch thick of the top of
each onion and discard it. Then hollow out the onion with a small spoon
to make a boatlike shell about Y inch thick. Invert the onion shells on
paper towels to drain and fnely chop enough of the scooped-out onion
centers to make 1 cup.
In a heavy 8- to 1 0-inch skillet melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of but
ter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the bread
cubes and, tossing them about frequently, fry until they are golden brown
on all sides. With a slotted spoon, transfer the cubes to a deep bowl .
Add the sausage meat to the skillet and fry over moderate heat for 5
minutes, stirring and fattening the meat with the back of a fork to break
up any lumps. Add the chopped onions and, still stirring from time to
time, cook for 5 minutes longer, or until the onions are soft and trans
lucent and the sausage shows no trace of pink. Do not let the mixture
brown. With a rubber spatula, scrape the entire contents of the skillet
into a sieve to drain of the excess fat . Then add the sausage and onions
to the fried bread cubes. Add the parsley, sage, salt and a few grindings
of pepper, and toss all the ingredients together gently but thoroughly.
Taste for seasoning.
Spoon the sausage mixture into the onion shells, dividing it equally
among them. Then arrange the stufed onions side by side in the buttered
baking dish and bake in the middle of the oven for 4 5 minutes, or until
the onions are tender but not falling apart.
Serve at once directly from the baking dish, or arranged attractively on
a heated platter.
76
Basque Potatoes
To serve 4
6 medium-sized boiling potatoes,
peeled
6 slices bacon
4 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
J teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
Drop the potatoes i nto enough l ightly salted boiling water to cover them
by at l east 1 inch, and boil briskly until they are almost tender and show
only slight resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small skewer
or sharp knife. Drain of the water, return the pan to low heat, and slide
it back and forth for a minute or so to dry the potatoes completely. Cut
the potatoes crosswise i nto Ys - inch-thick slices and set aside.
In a heavy 1 2- inch skillet, preferably one with a nonstick cooking sur
face, fry the bacon over moderate heat, turning the slices frequently until
they are crisp and brown and have rendered all their fat. Transfer the
slices to paper towels to drain, then crumble them into bits .
Pour all but about 4 tablespoons of the bacon fat into a heatproof cup
or bowl ; set aside. Add the onions to the fat remaining in the skillet and,
stirring frequently, cook over moderate heat for about 5 minutes, until
they are soft and translucent but not brown. Carefully add the potatoes
and mix them with the onions, using a wooden spoon. Slide the pan back
and forth until the potato sl ices lie fat. Then cook over moderate heat
until the bottom side of the potatoes is golden brown.
Slide the spatula around the edges of the skillet and as far under the
potatoes as you can without crumbling them. Place an inverted plate over
the pan and, grasping plate and skillet together frmly, turn them over.
Slide the potatoes back into the skillet, browned side up, frst adding a
few spoonfuls of the reserved fat to the pan if it is not the nonstick type.
Cook over moderate heat for 2 or 3 minutes to brown the bottom, then
reduce the heat to low. Meanwhile beat the eggs, salt and pepper with a
wire whisk or rotary beater until they are well combi ned. Pour the eggs
over the potatoes and sprinkle the reserved bacon bits on top. Cover the
skillet and cook for 5 or 6 minutes, or until the eggs are set and frm to
the touch. Serve at once, di rectly from the skillet.
77
Mushroom Croquettes
To make about 5 dozen 2- inch- long
croquettes
1 pound frm fresh mushrooms,
trimmed and fnely chopped
( about 4 cups )
5 eggs
parsley
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon salt
4 cups soft fresh crumbs made from
In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2- inch skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat.
When the foam begins to subside, add the onions and, stirring frequent
ly, cook for about 5 minutes . When the onions are soft and translucent,
add the mushrooms. Stirring from time to time, cook for 8 to 1 0 minutes,
or until almost all of the l iquid that accumulates i n the pan has evapo
rated. Do not let the vegetables brown.
Wi th a rubber spatula, scrape the entire contents of the skillet i nto a
deep bowl. Cool to room temperature, then beat in 2 of the eggs and the
parsley, Worcestershire sauce, salt and a few grindings of pepper. Add 2
cups of the bread crumbs and mix well . Spread in a shallow dish, cover
tightly with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour, or
until the mixture is frm.
Before shaping the croquettes, beat the remaining 3 eggs l ightly with a
whisk or fork, and spread the remaining 2 cups of bread crumbs on a
large plate or a piece of wax paper. For each croquette, scoop up about 1
tablespoon of the chilled mushroom mixture and roll it between your
hands to make a sausagelike cylinder about 2 inches long and % inch in
diameter. One at a time, immerse the croquettes in the beaten eggs and
roll them i n the crumbs . Arrange them side by side on wax paper and re
frigerate for at least 30 mi nutes longer to frm the coating.
Pour vegetable oil i nto a deep fryer or large heavy saucepan to a depth
of 2 or 3 inches and heat it until the oil reaches a temperature of 3 70 on
a deep-frying thermometer. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to its lowest
setting. Line a large shallow baking pan with a double thickness of paper
towels and place it in the oven.
Deep-fry the croquettes, 7 or 8 at a time, turning them frequently with
a slotted spoon, for 3 or 4 minutes, or until they are golden on all sides.
As they brown, transfer them to the paper-lined pan and keep them
warm in the oven while you deep-fry the remaining croquettes.
Serve the croquettes hot, as an accompaniment to drinks, a frst course
or a vegetable course.
78
Baked Mushroom Caps with Fish Stufng
6 tablespoons butter, plus 4
tablespoons butter, cut into
-i nch bits
1 6 large frm fresh mushrooms, each
about 2 i nches in di ameter
Y pound sole or founder fllets,
fnely chopped
2 eggs
parsley
Y teaspoon salt
teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
made from homemade-type white
bread, pulverized i n a blender or
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . With a pastry brush, spread the 2 tablespoons
of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a baking dish large enough
to hold the mushroom caps in one layer. Set aside.
Wipe the mushrooms with a dampened towel , remove the caps and set
them aside. Trim the mushroom stems and chop them fne.
In a heavy 8 to 1 0-i nch skillet, melt the 6 tablespoons of butter. When
the foam begins to subside, add the chopped mushroom stems and the gar
lic and, stirring frequently, simmer over low heat for 1 0 to 1 5 minutes,
until the moisture that the mushrooms give of has evaporated. Do not l et
the mushrooms brown.
With a rubber spatula, scrape the contents of the skillet i nto a bowl .
Add the fsh, eggs, parsley, salt and pepper, and mix well . Spoon the fsh
stufng mixture into the reserved mushroom caps, dividing it evenly
among them and mounding the center slightly.
Sprinkle the mushrooms with the bread crumbs, dot the tops with the
4 tablespoons of butter bits, and arrange the caps side by side i n the but
tered dish. Bake in the upper third of the oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes, or
until the topping is golden brown.
Arrange the baked mushroom caps attractively on a heated platter and
serve them at once.
79
Yellow Rice with Cold Fruit and Curry Sauce
To serve 6
FRUIT
1 pint ( about 2 cups ) fresh ripe
strawberries
blueberries
1 pound ( about 3 cups ) fresh ripe
sweet cherries
1 small ripe honeydew melon or
cantaloupe
4 medium- sized frm ripe peaches
1 tablespoon fresh lemon j uice
Pick over the strawberries, blueberries and cherries one at a time, re
moving any stems or caps and discarding any fruit that is badly bruised or
shows signs of mold. If you like, pit the cherries. Wash the fruits sep
arately in a sieve or colander under cold running water, then shake them
dry and spread on paper towels to drain.
Cut the melon in half crosswise, and scoop out the seeds with a spoon.
With a melon baller, shape the melon meat into balls.
With a small knife, peel the peaches and cut each of them lengthwise
into quarters. Discard the stones . Drop the peach quarters into a small
bowl, add the lemon j uice to prevent discoloration, and turn the peaches
about with a spoon until they are evenly coated. Then combine the straw
berries, blueberries, cherries, melon balls and peach quarters i n a serving
bowl , cover with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.
YELLOW RICE
2 cups uncooked long-grai n white
rice ( not the converted variety)
1 quart boi ling water
teaspoon fnely crumbled safron
threads or ground safron
8 whole toasted almonds
In a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat.
When the foam begi ns to subside, add the rice and stir for 2 or 3 min
utes, until the grains glisten with butter. Do not let the rice brown. Stir i n
the boiling water and safron, and bring to a boi l over high heat. Cover
tightly, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until
the rice is tender and has absorbed all the l iquid in the pan.
CURRY SAUCE
2Y cups chicken stock, fresh or
canned
2 tablespoons curry powder
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons cold water
cup seedless raisins
While the rice is simmering, prepare the sauce i n the following fash
ion : Combine the wine, chicken stock and curry powder in a small
enameled or stainless-steel pan and, stirring frequently, bring to a boi l
over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes. In
80
a small bowl or cup, stir the cornstarch and cold water together to make a
smooth paste. Then, stirring the curry mixture constantly, pour in the
cornstarch i n a slow, thin stream and simmer until the sauce thickens light
ly and is smooth. Stir in the raisins.
Spoon the rice into a 1 -quart mold or deep bowl, packing it in frmly
with the back of the spoon. Then place an inverted serving plate over the
mold and, grasping plate and mold together frmly, turn them over. Rap
the plate sharply on a table and the rice should slide out easily. Arrange
the toasted almonds attractively on top of the rice. Pour the sauce into a
bowl or sauceboat and serve it with the yellow rice and the fresh fruit.
Country Baked Beans
To sere 4
1 quart water
1 cup ( about V pound) dried li ma
beans
1 teaspoon salt
V pound lean bacon, fnely
chopped
V cup dark molasses
1 teaspoon prepared mustard
Y cup darkbrown sugar
In a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan, bring the water to a boil over high
heat. Drop i n the beans and boil them briskly for 2 minutes. Turn of the
heat and let the beans soak for 1 hour, then bring to a boil agai n and add
the salt. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for about
45 minutes, or until the beans are tender but still i ntact.
Preheat the oven to 300 . Drain the beans through a large sieve set
over a bowl and transfer them to a 1 V-quart casserole. Add 2 cups of
the cooking liquid to the beans ; set the rest of the liquid aside. Stir in the
bacon, molasses, mustard and a few grindings of pepper, and mix well .
Cover the casserole tightly and bake in the middle of the oven for 1 V
hours. Check the beans from time to time and, if necessary, add a few
spoonfuls of the reserved cooking liqui d. Remove the cover, taste for sea
soning, and spri nkle the beans with the brown sugar. Bake uncovered for
about 30 minutes longer. Serve at once, directly from the casserole.
81
Tomato-Cheese Pie
To make one 9-inch pie
LATTICE PASTRY TOPPING
1 cup four
1 Y teaspoons double-acting
baki ng powder
Y teaspoon salt
Y cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon butter, softened
1 tablespoon lard, softened
cup mi lk
Combine the four, baking powder and Y teaspoon of salt, and sift
them into a deep bowl . Add the cheese, 1 tablespoon of softened butter
and the lard and, with your fngertips, rub the four and fat together until
they look l ike fakes of coarse meal .
Pour in the milk, toss together lightly, and knead until the dough is
smooth and can be gathered into a compact ball. Wrap the dough in wax
paper and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
TOMATO FI LLING
cup fnely chopped shallots
pulveri zed i n a blender or fnely
1 teaspoon crumbled dried basi l
Y teaspoon sugar
Y teaspoon salt
9 medi um-si zed frm ripe tomatoes
( about 3 pounds )
When you are ready to make the pie, preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . With a
pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of softened butter evenly over the bot
tom and sides of a 9- inch pie pan.
In a heavy 8- to 1 0- inch skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of but
ter over moderate heat. Add the shallots and, stirring constantly, cook for
4 or 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Add
the bread crumbs and continue to stir until they are golden. Remove the
skillet from the heat and stir in the parsley, basil, sugar, Y teaspoon of
salt and a few grindings of pepper.
Drop the tomatoes into a pan of boiling water, remove them after 1 5
seconds, and run them under cold water. Peel the tomatoes with a small,
sharp knife, cut out the stems, then slice the tomatoes crosswise into
Y-inch-thick rounds.
Place half of the tomato sl ices in the buttered pie pan and sprinkle
them with half of the shallot-and-crumb mixture. Add the rest of the to
matoes and scatter the remaining shallot-and-crumb mixture on top.
On a lightly foured surface, roll the pastry dough out into a rough rec
tangl e 1 2 inches long and 9 inches wide and about Y inch thick. With a
ruler and a pastry wheel or sharp knife, cut the dough into eighteen 1 2-
inch strips, each Y inch wide.
82
To make the lattice topping, center one strip across the middle of the
pie. Arrange four strips on each side of it, laying them all parallel and
spacing them about V inch apart. Turn the pie and, i n a similar fashion,
arrange 9 more strips at right angles to the 9 strips.
With scissors or a small, sharp knife, tri m of the excess dough, leav
ing a l -i nch overhang all around. Fold the overhang under the ends of
each strip and crimp the dough to the rim of the pie pan with your fn
gers or the tines of a fork.
Bake in the middle of the oven for 3 0 to 3 5 minutes, or until the crust
is golden brown. Serve at once, directly from the pie pan.
Green-Tomato Pie
To make one 9- i nch pie
2 tablespoons butter, cut i nto
- inch bi ts
Short-crust pastry for a double-crust
pie (page 1 33)
8 medium-sized green tomatoes
( about 2 V pounds ) , washed,
cored and cut crosswise i nto
-i nch-thick slices
1 tablespoon salt
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons four
V teaspoon ground ci nnamon
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9- inch pie tin. Following
the directions in the recipe for short-crust pastry on page 1 3 3, roll out
half the pastry dough and ft it into the pie tin.
Place the tomatoes in a deep bowl, sprinkle the salt over them, and
turn the slices about with a spoon until they are evenly coated. Set aside
at room temperature for about 1 5 minutes. Spread the tomatoes on paper
towels to drain, and pat them completely dry with fresh towels.
Combine t he sugar, four, bread crumbs and cinnamon in a deep bowl
and mix well . Add the tomatoes to the sugar mixture and toss together
gently but thoroughly. Then arrange the tomato slices in the lined pie
tin, dribble the cider vi negar over them, and dot the top with the 2 ta
blespoons of butter bits .
Roll out the remaining pastry dough as described in the recipe for short
crust pastry and lay it over the pie. With scissors or a small knife, trim of
the excess dough and crimp the pastry to the rim of the pie tin with the
tines of a fork or your fngers. Cut a hole 1 inch in diameter i n the center
of the top crust.
Bake the pie in the middle of the oven for 45 minutes, or until the pas
try is delicately browned. Serve the green-tomato pi e at once, or cool it to
room temperature before serving.
83
Spinach Ring with Cheese Sauce
To serve 6
2 teaspoons butter, softened, plus 3
tablespoons butter
made from homemade-type white
4 tablespoons four
2 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon salt
\ teaspoon ground white pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg
\ pound sliced bacon
V cup fnely chopped onions
2 pounds fresh spi nach, washed,
cooked, drained, squeezed and
fnely chopped, or 4 ten- ounce
packages frozen chopped spinach,
thoroughly defrosted and
squeezed dry
3 egg yolks
3 egg whites
\ cup freshly grated imported
Parmesan or Gruyere cheese
Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 . With a pastry brush, coat all the inner surfaces
of a 1 -quart ring mold with the 2 teaspoons of softened butter. Add the
bread crumbs and tip the pan from side to side to spread them as evenly
as you can. Then i nvert the pan and rap it lightly on a table to remove
any excess crumbs. Set aside.
In a 2- or 3-quart saucepan melt the 3 tablespoons of butter but do not
let it brown. Remove the pan from the heat, and stir i n the 4 tablespoons
of four. Then pour in the milk and cream, and stir with a whisk until the
four mixture i s partially di ssolved. Return the pan to medium heat and
cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce comes to a boil and is thick and
smooth. Stir i n V teaspoon of the salt, the white pepper and a pinch of
nutmeg. Set aside.
In a 1 0- inch skillet, fry the bacon over moderate heat, turning the
slices from time to time until they have rendered all their fat and are gold
en brown and crisp. Transfer them to paper towels to drain, then crumble
the bacon i nto small bits and set them aside. Meanwhile, pour of and dis
card all but about \ cup of the bacon fat from the pan and add the V
cup of onions. Stirring occasionally, cook over moderate heat for about 5
minutes, until the onions are soft but not brown.
Add the spinach to the skillet and raise the heat to high. Stirring con
stantly, fry the mixture until all the moisture has evaporated and the spin
ach begins to stick l ightly to the pan. Watch carefully for any sign of
burning and regulate the heat accordingly. With a rubber spatul a, scrape
the contents of the skillet into a large mixing bowl and mix in the re
maining V teaspoon of the salt, a pinch of nutmeg, and as much freshly
84
ground black pepper as you like. Then pour in about half of the reserved
sauce ( leaving the rest in the pan ) , and stir vigorously with a wooden
spoon until the ingredients are well combined. Beat in the egg yolks one
at a time and stir in the crumbled bacon.
Beat the egg whites with a wire whisk or rotary beater-in an unlined
copper bowl, if possible-until they are stif enough to form unwavering
peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl . Stir 2 or 3 large spoon
fuls of the whites into the spinach mixture to lighten it, then gently fold
i n the remaining whites . Ladle the mixture into the prepared mold and
smooth the top with a rubber spatula. Bake undisturbed in the center of
the oven for about 30 minutes, or until the ring has pufed and the top is
lightly browned.
While the spinach ring is baking, bring the reserved pan of sauce to a
simmer over moderate heat. Then stir in the cheese and simmer for 2 or 3
minutes, until the cheese is melted. Taste for seasoning; it will probably
need more salt. To keep the sauce warm, cover and set aside of the heat
while you unmold the ring.
Place a large plate upside down over the top of the mold, and frmly
grasping plate and mold together, invert the two. Rap them sharply on a
table and the spinach ring should slide out easily onto the plate. Pour the
hot cheese sauce ( reheated, if necessary ) over the ring, masking it as com
pletely as you can. Serve at once.
85
Wild Rice with Mushrooms and Almonds
To serve 4 to 6
1 cup wild rice
canned
1 teaspoon salt
! cup slivered blanched almonds
pound frm fresh mushrooms,
trimmed, and cut lengthwise,
including the stems, into Y
inch-thick slices
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . In a heavy 2 -quart casserole equipped with a
tightly ftting l i d, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat.
When the foam begins to subside, add 2 tablespoons of the onions and,
stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and trans
lucent but not brown.
Add the wild rice and stir until the grains glisten with butter. Then
pour in the chicken stock and teaspoon of the salt, and stir until the
mixture comes to a boil.
Cover the casserole with a double thickness of aluminum foil and set
the lid in place. Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 hour, remove the cas
serole from the oven, and let the rice rest at room temperature for 1 5 min
utes before removing the lid and foil .
Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a heavy 1 0-inch skillet and
brown the almonds for a minute or so, stirring constantly so that they
color delicately and evenly. With a slotted spoon, transfer the almonds to
paper towels to drain.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the skillet and melt over
moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the remaining 2
tablespoons of onions and stir for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and
translucent but not brown.
Add the mushrooms and, stirring frequently, cook for 1 0 to 1 5 min
utes, until the moisture they give of has evaporated. Do not let the
mushrooms brown. Season with the remaining
teaspoon of salt and a
few grindings of pepper and set aside.
To serve, combine the wild rice and mushrooms i n a heated bowl and
toss them together gently but thoroughly. Scatter the almonds on top and
serve at once.
86
Sourdough Starter
Because of their favor and texture, sourdough bread, rolls and pancakes
are well worth the trouble they take to make, but it is not possible to en
sure predictable results. The success of sourdough starter, which gives
the dough its character, depends on a proper blend of yeast and bacterial
fermentation. This in turn depends to a large degree on the four and the
amount and types of bacteria in the air. In many parts of the United
States and Canada, it is possible to buy sourdough starter from bakeries.
3 cups all-purpose four
1 package active dry yeast
2Y cups lukewarm water ( 1 1 0
to 1 1 5 )
Starting a day ahead, place the four in a large glass mixing bowl. Make a
well in the center and pour in the yeast and water. With a large spoon,
gradually stir the four into the yeast and water, continuing to stir until
the ingredients are well combined. Then, with a whisk or a rotary or elec
tric beater, beat vigorously until the mixture is completely smooth. Drape
with a kitchen towel and set aside in a warm, draft-free spot ( such as an
unlighted oven ) for 24 hours. If at the end of this time the starter has
not bubbled, it must be discarded.
After you have used as much of the starter as you need, transfer the re
maining starter to a glass j ar or crock equipped with a tight-ftting l i d.
Covered and refrigerated, it can be stored for several weeks . If used reg
ularly, it may keep indefnitely.
87
Sourdough White Bread
To make 3 small loaves
1 cup sourdough starter (page 87)
6Y t o 7 cups all-purpose four
2 cups lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sugar
Y teaspoon baking soda
Starting a day ahead, place the sourdough starter in a large glass or ce
ramic mixing bowl and add 2 Y cups of the four and the lukewarm
water. With a large wooden spoon, mix the starter, four and water to
gether until well combined, then continue to stir until the dough is
smooth. Drape the bowl with a kitchen towel and place in a warm, draft
free spot ( such as an unlighted oven ) overnight.
The following day, remove 1 cup of the mixture and refrigerate it, in
a tightly sealed glass j ar or crock, as your new sourdough starter. Or you
can add it to any sourdough starter you may have left.
To the dough remaining i n the bowl add 4 cups of the four, the salt,
sugar, baking soda and oil. With a large spoon, stir the ingredients to
gether, and continue to stir until the mixture is smooth and the four is
completely absorbed. The dough should be j ust frm enough to be gath
ered into a ball. If i t is too soft, add the remaining Y cup of four, a
tablespoon at a time, beating vigorously after each addition and using only
enough of the four to give the dough its proper consistency.
On a heavily foured surface, knead the dough by pushing it down
with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward, and folding it back on
itself. Continue to knead for about 1 0 minutes, or until the dough is
smooth, shiny and elastic. Sprinkle it from time to time with a little four
to prevent it from sticking to the board.
Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly buttered bowl.
Drape with a kitchen towel and set in the warm, draft-free place for
about 2 Y hours, or until it has doubled in volume.
With a pastry brush, spread the bottom and sides of three warmed
9-by- 5 -by- 3-inch loaf pans with the softened butter. Punch the dough
down with a single blow of your fst and with a large, sharp knife, cut it
into three equal parts . Shape each part into a loaf and place the loaves in
the loaf pans. Set aside in the warm, draft-free place for about 1 hour, to
allow them to double in volume.
Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 . Bake the loaves in the middle of the oven
for about 1 hour, or until they are golden brown on top and shrink slightly
from the sides of the pan. Transfer the bread to cake racks to cool and
serve at room temperatre.
88
Sourdough Rolls
To make 1 2 rolls
1 tablespoon sugar
1 Y cups lukewarm water ( 1 1 0
t o 1 1 5 )
1 cup sourdough starter (page 87)
3 t o 4 cps all-purpose four
1 tablespoon butter, softened
In a small, shallow bowl, sprinkle the sugar and yeast over Y cup of the
lukewarm water. Let the mixture stand for 2 to 3 minutes, then stir once
or twice and set the bowl in a warm, draft-free spot ( such as an un
l ighted oven ) for about 5 minutes, or until the mixture bubbles and al
most doubles in volume.
Place the sourdough starter in a large glass or ceramic mixing bowl
and pour in the yeast mixture. Add the remaining cup of lukewarm water
and 1 cups of the four and stir with a large spoon until all of the in
gredients are well combined. Then drape with a kitchen towel and set
aside in the warm, draft-free place for about 2 hours, or until the mixture
bubbles and doubles i n volume.
Stir the mixture briefy with a large spoon. Remove 1 cup and refrig
erate it in a tightly sealed glass j ar or crock, to be used as your new sour
dough starter. Or add it to any sourdough starter you may have left.
To the mixture remaining i n the bowl gradually add 2 to 2 cups of
the remaining four, beating vigorously after each addition and using
only enough of the four to make it frm enough to be gathered i nto a
ball. On a heavily foured surface, knead the dough by pushing it down
with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward, and folding it back on
itself. Continue the kneading for about 1 0 minutes, or until the dough is
smooth and elastic. Sprinkle i t from time to time with a little four to pre
vent it from sticking to the board.
Shape the dough i nto a ball and place it in a lightly buttered bowl.
Drape with a towel and set aside in the warm, draft-free place for about
1 hour, or until the dough doubles in volume.
Preheat the oven to 3 75 . With a pastry brush, spread a large baking
sheet with the tablespoon of softened butter. Punch the dough down
with a single blow of your fst and with a large, sharp knife cut it into 1 2
equal parts. Shape the dough gently into balls and fatten them slightly
with your hands. Place the balls about 2 inches apart on the prepared bak
ing sheet. Bake i n the center of the oven for 20 to 2 5 minutes, or until
golden brown and crisp. Serve the rolls at once.
89
Sourdough Pancakes
To make about 1 6 four- i nch
pancakes
4 cups sourdough starter (page 87)
2 cups lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
2 Y cups all-purpose four
2 eggs
Y cup evaporated milk
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons sugar
Starting a day ahead, place the sourdough starter i n a large glass mixing
bowl and pour i n the lukewarm water and the four. Stir together briefy
with a large spoon, then beat the mixture vigorously until smooth. Drape
with a kitchen towel and set aside in a warm, draft-free place ( such as an
unlighted oven ) overnight.
Remove 1 cup of the mixture from the bowl and refrigerate it in a tight
ly sealed glass j ar or crock, to be used as your new sourdough starter. Or
add it to any sourdough starter you may have left.
To the remaining mixture in the mixing bowl add the eggs, 2 ta
blespoons of the oil, and the evaporated milk. Mix with a large spoon
until the batter is smooth, then sift together the salt, baking soda and
sugar directly over the batter. Mix only long enough to blend, then set
aside for 1 5 minutes.
Heat a griddle or heavy 1 2-inch skillet over moderate heat until a drop
of water ficked onto it evaporates instantly. Grease the skillet or griddle
very lightly with a pastry brush dipped in the remaining oil ( continue to
grease when necessary as you make each batch of pancakes ) . Pour the bat
ter from a pitcher or small ladle onto the hot pan to form pancakes about
4 inches in diameter. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes, until small scattered bub
bles have formed-but have not broken-n the surface. Immediately
turn with a spatula and cook for a minute, until the other side of the pan
cake is golden brown. Stack on a heated plate and serve with melted but
ter and maple syrup.
NOTE : If you wish, you may scatter 1 tablespoon of drained blueber
ries, grated apple or crumbled fried bacon on top of each pancake j ust be
fore turning it over.
90
Oatmeal Pancakes
To make about eighteen 3 ;- inch
pancakes
1 ;.cups uncooked rolled oats
2 cups milk
1 cup four
2 tablespoons dark-brown sugar
2 teaspoons double-acting baking
powder
1 teapoon salt
3 eggs, lightly beaten
4 tablespoons butter, melted and
cooled
cp vegetable oil
Place the oats i n a deep bowl, pour i n the milk, stir well, and set aside
until all the milk has been absorbed. Meanwhile, combine the four, brown
sugar, baking powder and salt, and sift them together onto a plate or a
sheet of wax paper.
Add the eggs to the oats mixture and mix with a large spoon. Then
sprinkle the four mixture over the top and stir it i n. Add the melted but
ter and stir only long enough to blend the batter . Do not over mix.
With a pastry brush dipped in the vegetable oil, grease a griddle or
heavy skillet lightly and heat it until a drop of water ficked onto it splut
ters and evaporates instantly. Pour the batter from a pitcher or small
ladle into the hot pan to form pancakes about 3 ; inches i n diameter.
Cook for 2 or 3 minutes over moderate heat, until small, scattered bub
bles have formed and begun to break on the surface of the cakes. Im
mediately turn them with a spatula and cook for a minute, until the other
side of the pancake is brown. Stack on a heated plate or platter and re
peat the whole procedure, stirring the batter gently and oiling the pan
for each batch of pancakes until they are all cooked. Serve the pancakes
hot, accompanied by butter and maple or fruit syrup.
91
Potato Rolls
To make 2 dozen rolls
1 medium-sized baking potato
( about Y pound) , peeled and
quartered
cup lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
Y teaspoon plus 3 tablespoons
sugar
3 to 5 cps four
2 teaspoons salt
1 cup lukewarm milk ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
3 eggs
8 tablespoons butter, cut into
Y- i nch bits, plus 3 tablespoons
butter, softened
2 tablespoons poppy seeds
Drop the potato quarters into enough boiling water to cover them by at
least 1 inch and boil briskly until they are soft and show no resistance
when pierced deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife.
Drain of the water, return the pan to low heat, and slide it back and
forth for a minute or so to dry the potato pieces completely. Mash them
to a smooth puree with the back of a table fork. Set aside.
Pour the lukewarm water into a small bowl and sprinkle the yeast and
Y teaspoon of sugar over it. Let the mixture stand for 2 or 3 minutes,
then mix well. Set the bowl in a warm, draft-free place ( such as an un
l ighted oven ) for 1 0 minutes, until the mixture almost doubles in bulk.
Place 3 cups of four, the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar and the salt
in a deep bowl, and make a well in the center. Pour in the yeast mixture
and the milk and, with a large spoon, gradually incorporate the liquid in
gredients into the dry ones . Beat i n the mashed potato and 2 of the eggs.
When the dough is smooth, beat in the butter bits, and continue to beat
until the butter is absorbed.
Gather the dough into a ball , place it on a l ightly foured surface, and
knead by pushing the dough down with the heels of your hands, pressing
it forward, and folding it back on itself. Repeat for about 1 0 minutes, add
ing up to 2 cups more four by the tablespoonful as you knead and using
only enough four to make a smooth and elastic dough.
With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter over
the bottom and sides of a large bowl . Gather the dough i nto a ball, and
turn it about in the bowl until it is evenly coated with butter on all sides.
Drape loosely with a kitchen towel and set aside i n the warm, draft-free
place for about 1 hour, or until the dough doubles in volume.
Spread the remaining 2 tablespoons of softened butter around the in
sides of two 1 2-cup mufn tins. Punch the dough down with a single
blow of your fst. For each potato roll, break of a small piece of dough
92
and shape it i nto a ball about 1 inch in diameter. Place the balls of dough
in the buttered pans ; each mufn cup should be about two thirds ful l . Set
the rolls aside in the draft-free place to rise for about 30 minutes, or until
they completely fll the mufn cups.
Preheat the oven to 45 0 . Beat the remaining egg l ightly with a wire
whisk or fork and brush it evenly over the rolls. Sprinkle the tops with
poppy seeds. Bake i n the middle of the oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes, or
until the rolls are a deep golden brown. Transfer the rolls to a wire rack
and let them cool for a few minutes before serving them.
Spaetzle
TINY DUMPLINGS WITH FRIED CROUTONS
To serve 4 to 6
3 cups four
1 teaspoon salt
l teaspoon ground nutmeg,
4 eggs, l ightly beaten
1 cup milk
2 quarts water
1 cup l- inch cubes white bread,
preferably cut from day-old
French or Italian bread
To make the dumplings, combine the four, Y teaspoon of the salt and
the nutmeg in a large mixing bowl . Make a well in the center and drop in
the eggs and milk. With a large spoon, stir the four into the liquid in
gredients and continue to stir until the dough is smooth.
Bring 2 quarts of water and the remaining Y teaspoon of salt to a
boil in a heavy 4- to 5 -quart saucepan. Set a colander, preferably one with
large openings, over the saucepan and, with a spoon, press the dough a
few tablespoons at a time through the colander into the boiling water.
Stir the dumplings gently to prevent them from sticking to each other,
then boil briskly 5 to 8 mi nutes, or until they are tender. Drain through a
sieve or colander and transfer to a large heated serving bowl . Cover the
bowl with foil to keep the dumplings hot while you prepare the croutons.
Melt the butter in a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-i nch skillet and add the bread
cubes. Turn the cubes about in the butter for 2 to 3 minutes, or until
gol den brown on all sides, then add them to the bowl of dumplings. Toss
the croutons and dumpl ings together lightly with a spoon, sprinkle with
parsley, and serve at once.
93
Cheese Bread
To make one 8- inch round loaf
cup lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
1 tablespoon sugar
2 V to 3Y cups four
1 tablespoon salt
1 cup lukewarm milk ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
V- i nch bits and softened, plus 2
tablespoons butter, softened
' cup freshly grated sharp
Cheddar cheese
1 egg yolk
Pour the lukewarm water i nto a small shallow bowl and sprinkle the
yeast and sugar on top. Let the mixture stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then
mix wel l . Set the bowl in a warm, draft-free place ( such as an unlighted
oven ) for about 1 0 minutes, until the mixture almost doubles i n bulk.
Combine 2 Y cups of four and the salt i n a deep bowl and make a
well in the center. Pour the yeast mixture and milk i nto the well and,
with a large wooden spoon, gradually i ncorporate the dry ingredients
i nto the liquid ones . Beat until the dough is smooth, then stir in the 3 ta
blespoons of butter bits .
Gather the dough i nto a ball and place it on a lightly foured surface.
Knead the dough by pushing it down with the heels of your hands, press
ing it forward, and fol ding it back on itself. Repeat for about 1 0 minutes,
meanwhile sprinkling in up to 1 cup more four, addi ng it by the ta
blespoonful and using only enough to make a smooth, elastic dough.
With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter inside
a deep bowl . Place the dough in the bowl and grease it on all si des by turn
ing it about i n the bowl. Drape loosely with a kitchen towel and set aside
i n the warm, draft-free place for about 45 minutes, or until the dough
doubles i n volume.
Brush the remaining tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom
and sides of an 8- inch cake pan. Punch the dough down with a single
blow of your fst, add the grated cheese and knead it in thoroughly. On a
l ightly foured surface, pat and shape the dough into a round loaf 7 or 8
i nches in diameter. Place the loaf in the buttered pan and set it aside in
the warm, draft-free spot for about 45 minutes longer, or until the dough
has doubled in volume.
Preheat the oven to 400 . With a wire whisk, beat the egg yolk and
cream together until well blended. Brush the egg-and-cream mixture over
94
the loaf and bake in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes. Reduce the
oven temperature to 3 5 0 and continue baking for another 1 5 to 20 min
utes, or until the cheese bread is golden brown and sounds hollow when
turned out and tapped sharply on the bottom with a fnger. Let the bread
cool on a wire rack and serve it at room temperature.
Lefse
FLAT POTATO BREADS
To make about 1 5
3 large baking potatoes, peeled and
quartered
2 tablespoons butter, softened and
ct into Y-i nch bits
! cup heav cream
Y teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup four
Drop the potatoes into enough boiling water to cover them completely
and boil briskly, uncovered, until they are soft and can be easily pierced
with the point of a sharp knife. Drain thoroughly and force them through
a ricer or mash them in a bowl with a fork. ( You should have about 2
cups of potatoes. ) Add the butter, cream, sugar and salt and beat until
the mixture is smooth. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours.
Gather the potato mixture into a ball, place it on a heavily foured sur
face, and sprinkle with about Y cup of the four. Knead the mixture
-by pressing i t down with the heels of your hands, pushing it forward,
and folding it back on itself-for about 1 0 minutes. Incorporate the re
maining four gradually as you proceed. Divide the dough into 1 5 small
balls. With a grooved Swedish lefse pin or a plain rolling pin, roll one of
the balls into a paper-thin round about 6 inches in diameter. Heat a large
griddle or skillet until very hot, drape one round of dough on the rolling
pin, and unroll it onto the hot surface. Cook only a moment or two, until
bubbles appear on the surface of the dough and the bottom of the lefse
browns lightly. With a metal spatula, turn it over and brown the other
side. Transfer to a large plate and cover with a damp towel while you pro
ceed to roll out and cook the remaining rounds of dough.
To serve, butter the lefse, roll loosely, and cut it into diagonal slices .
Or sprinkle the buttered lefse with sugar and top with honey or j am.
95
Cream Biscuits
To make about eight 2 Y- inch
biscuits
1 teaspoon butter, softened
1 Y cups four
powder
Y teaspoon salt
1 cup heavy cream, chilled
Preheat the oven to 42 5 . With a pastry brush, spread the softened but
ter evenly on a large baking sheet. Combine the four, baking powder and
salt, and sift them together onto a plate or a strip of wax paper.
In a chilled bowl, beat the cream with a wire whisk or a rotary or elec
tric beater until sti f enough to stand in soft peaks on the beater when it
is l ifted from the bowl . Sprinkle the four mixture over the cream about
Y cup at a time and fold them together gently but thoroughly with a rub
ber spatula. Do not overfold.
Place the dough on a lightly foured surface and pat it into a rough rec
tangle about Y i nch thick. Then, with a cookie cutter or the rim of a
glass, cut the dough i nto 2 Y-inch rounds. Gather the scraps gently into
a ball, pat it fat, and cut as many more rounds as you can.
Arrange the biscuits about 1 inch apart on the buttered sheet and bake
in the middle of the oven for 1 2 to 1 5 minutes, or until they are golden
brown. Serve at once.
Fried Cornmeal Squares
To make s
6 tablespoons butter, cut i nto bits
1 cup water
1 teaspoon salt
1 Y cups yellow cornmeal
With a pastry brush, spread the softened butter evenly over the bottom
and si des of a shallow baking dish 8 inches long and 5 inches wide.
In a heavy 2- quart saucepan, bring the water and salt to a boil. Stirring
constantly with a wooden spoon, pour i n the cornmeal in a slow, thin
stream so that the water continues to boil as the cornmeal is absorbed.
Then reduce the heat to lw and, stirring frequently, cook the cornmeal
for 2 or 3 minutes, until it is very thick and smooth.
Immediately remove the pan from the heat. With a rubber spatula,
spread the hot cornmeal into the buttered dish to a thickness of Y inch.
Cover with wax paper and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or until the
cornmeal is .rm to the touch.
With a small, sharp knife or pastry wheel, divide the cornmeal into
2- inch s quares and lift them out of the dish with a small metal spatula.
In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2- inch skillet, melt the 6 tablespoons of butter bits
over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the cornmeal
squares and fry them for about 2 minutes on each side, turning them over
with a metal spatula and regulating the heat so that they color richly and
evenly without burning. Transfer the fried squares to paper towels to
drain for a few seconds, then serve at once.
Cheddar Pennies
To make about 4 dozen
1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese
Y teaspoon salt
Y to % cup four
In a deep bowl, cream 4 tablespoons of the softened butter by beating
and mashing it against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon
until it is light and fufy. Stir in the cheese, salt and a pinch of red pep
per and, when the mixture is smooth, beat in Y cup of the four. The
dough should be .rm enough to be gathered into a compact ball . If nec
essary, add up to Y cup more four by the tablespoonful .
Place the dough on a lightly foured surface and, with your hands,
shape and roll it i nto a cylinder about 1 Y inches in diameter. Wrap in
wax paper and refrigerate the dough for 1 hour, or until it is .rm.
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . With a pastry brush, spread the remaining ta
blespoon of softened butter evenly over a large baking sheet. Slice the
dough into -inch-thick rounds with a sharp knife and arrange the
rounds about 1 inch apart on the buttered sheet.
Bake i n the middle of the oven for 1 2 to 1 5 minutes, or until the Ched
dar pennies are .rm to the touch and a delicate golden color. With a
metal spatula, transfer them to a wire rack to cool to room temperature.
In a tightly covered j ar or tin, the Cheddar pennies can safely be kept for
a week or so.
97
Blueberry Cofee Ring
To make 2 rings ( serving 10 to 1 2 )
YEAST DOUGH
Y cup lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
1 teaspoon plus 3 tablespoons sugar
3 to 4 cups four
Y teaspoon salt
Y cup vegetable oil
Y cup lukewarm milk ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
2 eggs
8 tablespoons butter, cut i nto
V- inch bits and softened, plus 3
Pour the lukewarm water into a small shallow bowl and sprinkle the
yeast and 1 teaspoon of the sugar on top. Let the mixture stand for 2 or 3
minutes, then mix well. Set the bowl in a warm, draft-free place ( such as
an unlighted oven ) for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture almost dou
bles in volume.
Combine 3 cups of the four, the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar and
the salt in a deep bowl, and make a well i n the center. Pour in the yeast
mixture, vegetable oil, milk and eggs and, with a large spoon, gradually
incorporate the dry ingredients into the l iquid ones. Beat until smooth,
then beat in the 8 tablespoons of butter bits.
Gather the dough into a ball and place it on a l ightly foured surface.
Knead it by pushing it down with the heels of your hands, pressing it for
ward, and folding it back on itself. Repeat for about 1 0 minutes, mean
while sprinkling in up to 1 cup more four, adding it by the tablespoonful
and using only enough to make a smooth, elastic dough.
With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter inside
a deep bowl . Place the dough in the bowl and turn it about to grease all
sides evenly. Drape loosely with a kitchen towel and set aside in the
warm, draft- free place for about 45 minutes, or until the dough doubles
in bulk. Meanwhile brush the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter evenly
over two large baking sheets and set aside.
BLUEBERRY FI LLING
2 cups frm ripe fresh blueberries
Y cup sugar
j uice
While the dough is rising, prepare the blueberry flling in the fol
lowing fashion : Combine the blueberries, Y cup sugar, cornstarch and
lemon j uice in a 2- to 3- quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan. Bring
to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring until the sugar di ssolves. Still stir
ring from time to time, simmer uncovered over low heat for about 10 min-
98
utes longer, or until the mixture is thick enough to coat a spoon heavily.
Remove the pan from the heat and let the blueberry flling cool.
Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fst and divide it in
half. On a lightly foured surface, roll out one half of the dough into a rec
tangle about 1 6 i nches long and 1 0 inches wide. Spread the top to within
2 inches of the edges with half of the blueberry flling and, starting at
one of the 1 6-inch si des, roll the dough j elly-roll fashion into a cylinder.
Crimp the ends of the cylinder tightly together with your fngers to seal
them. Then place the cylinder on a buttered baking sheet and fold the
ends together to make a horseshoe or ring. Roll, fll and shape the second
half of the dough i n the same manner, then set them both aside in a
warm, draft-free place for about 45 minutes, or until they double in bulk.
LEMON TOPPING
\ cup sugar
2 tablespoons milk
1 tablespoon fnely grated fresh
lemon peel
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . In a small bowl, stir the 1 cup of sugar,
the 2 tablespoons of milk and the lemon peel to a smooth paste. With a
pastry brush, spread the lemon mixture over the top of the two . cofee
rings, dividing it equally between them. Bake in the mi ddle of the oven
for 20 minutes, or until the ri ngs are golden brown. Serve hot, or cool to
room temperature before serving.
Shrove Tuesda
y
Buns
To make 1 2 buns
Y cup lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
2 Y to 3 Y cups four
\ cup sugar
Ys teaspoon salt
Y cup heavy cream, heated to
lukewarm ( 1 1 0 to 1 1 5 ) , plus
Y cup heavy cream, chilled
8 tablespoons butter, cut i nto Y-
inch bits and softened, plus 2
1 egg beaten with 2 tablespoons
milk
Y cup blanched almonds
1 egg white
1 cup confectioners' sugar
Y teaspoon almond extract
Pour the lukewarm water i nto a small shallow bowl and sprinkle the
yeast on top. Let the mixture stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then mix wel l . Set
the bowl i n a warm, draft-free place ( such as an unlighted oven ) for 5
minutes, or until the mixture bubbles and almost doubles in volume.
Combine 2 Y cups of the four with the sugar and salt, sift them into
a deep bowl, and make a well in the center. Pour in the yeast mi xture and
Continued on next page 99
the lukewarm cream and, with a large spoon, gradually incorporate the
dry ingredients into the liquid ones. Beat until smooth, then add the 8 ta
blespoons of butter bits and conti nue to beat until the batter is absorbed.
Gather the dough into a ball and place it on a lightly foured surface.
Knead it by pushing it down with the heels of your hands, pressing it for
ward, and folding it back on itself. Repeat for about 1 0 minutes, mean
while sprinkling in up to 1 cup more four, adding it by the tablespoonful
and using only enough to make a smooth, elastic dough.
With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter over
the entire inside surface of a deep bowl. Place the dough in the bowl and
turn it about to grease all sides evenly. Drape loosely with a kitchen
towel and set aside i n the warm, draft-free place for 1 to 1 Y hours, or
until the dough doubles i n bulk.
Brush the remaining tablespoon of softened butter evenly on a large
baking sheet. Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fst and
divide it into 1 2 equal parts. On a lightly foured surface, pat and shape
the dough into a dozen balls and arrange them 2 inches apart on the but
tered baking sheet. Set the balls aside in the warm, draft-free place for 20
to 30 mi nutes, or until they double in volume.
Preheat the oven to 42 5 . Brush the top of the balls with the egg-and
milk mixture and bake them in the middle of the oven for 1 5 minutes, or
until they are golden brown. Turn the buns out on wire racks, separate,
and let them cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, reduce the oven temperature to 3 5 0 . Spread the almonds
in a baking dish and, stirring occasionally, toast them for 8 to 1 0 min
utes, or until they are del icately browned. Pulverize the almonds in an
electric blender or with a nut grinder.
Drop the egg white into a bowl and sift ' cup of the confectioners'
sugar over it. Mix well , then add the pulverized almonds and the almond
extract and stir to a smooth paste. Set aside.
In a chilled bowl, whip the remaining Y cup of heavy cream with a
wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater until the cream is stif enough to
stand in unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl .
Cover with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.
Just before serving, cut a l - inch slice of the top of each bun. Spread
each bun with 1 tablespoon of the almond paste and spoon about 1 ta
blespoon of cream over the paste, then set the slice i n place like a li d.
Sprinkle the buns lightly with the remaining confectioners' sugar and
serve at once.
1 00
Apple Mufns
To make 1 2 mufns
10 tablespoons butter, melted, plus
2 cups cake four, not the self-rising
variety
1 tablespoon double-acting baking
powder
Y teaspoon ground nutmeg,
Y teaspoon ground cinnamon
Y teaspoon salt
Y cup sugar
1 egg
1 cup milk
4 medium-sized tart cooking apples,
peeled, cored and fnely chopped
(about 2 cups )
Y cup fnely chopped walnuts
Y cup sugar combined with 2
teaspoons ground cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 425 . With a pastry brush, spread 2 tablespoons of
the melted butter evenly inside the cups of a medium-sized 1 2-cup mufn
tin. Combine the cake four, baking powder, nutmeg, cinnamon and salt,
and sift them onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper. Set aside.
In a deep bowl, cream the 4 tablespoons of softened butter and the
sugar together, beating and mashing them against the si des of the bowl
with the back of a spoon until the mixture is light and fufy. Add the egg
and mix well . Then beat in about Y cup of the four mixture and, when
it is thoroughly incorporated, add Y cup of the milk. Repeat three more
times, alternating Y cup of four with Y cup of milk and beating well
after each addition. Add the apples and walnuts, and fold them together
gently but thoroughly.
Ladle the batter i nto the buttered mufn tin, flling each cup about
half full . Bake in the middle of the oven for about 30 minutes, or until a
toothpick or cake tester inserted in the center of a mufn comes out clean.
Turn the mufns out onto a heated platter and, with a pastry brush,
spread the remaining 8 tablespoons of melted butter over the tops. Sprin
kle the mufns with the sugar-and-cinnamon mixture and serve at once.
1 01
Swedish Cherry Twist
To make one 1 6-inch twist
DOUGH
Y cp lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
1 teaspoon plus Y cup sugar
% cup lukewarm milk ( 1 1 0 to
1 1 5 )
softened
1 teapoon salt
3 to 3 Y cups four
DOUGH: Pour the water into a small bowl and sprinkle the yeast and 1
teaspoon of the sugar over it. Let stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then stir well .
Set in a warm, draft-free place ( such as an unlighted oven) for about 1 0
minutes, or until the yeast bubbles up and the mixture almost doubles i n
volume. Meanwhi l e, combine the mi lk and 4 tablespoons of the butter
and, stirring occasionally, cook over moderate heat until the butter has
melted and bubbles begin to form around the edges of the pan. Then
pour the mixture into a deep bowl and set aside to cool to lukewarm.
Add the yeast mixture, the salt, the remaining Y cup of sugar and the
l ightly beaten egg and, with a wooden spoon, stir until all the i ngredients
are well blended. Then add 3 cups of the four, 1 cup at a time, and con
tinue to stir until the dough can be gathered into a medium-soft ball.
Place the ball on a l ightly foured surface and knead, pushing the
dough down with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward and fold
ing it back on itself. As you knead, incorporate as much of the remaining
Y cup of four as is required to make a smooth, fairly dry dough. When
the dough is shiny and elastic, reshape it into a ball. With a pastry brush,
coat the inside of another large bowl with 1 tablespoon of the softened
butter. Drop i n the dough and turn i t about to coat the entire ball with
butter. Then drape the bowl with a towel and put it into the draft-free
place for about 45 minutes, or until the dough doubles in volume. Mean
while, brush a baking sheet with the remai ni ng tablespoon of butter.
Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fst and place it on a
lightly foured surface.
1 02
TOPPING
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten and
combined with 1 teaspoon milk
Y cup blanched almonds, coarsely
chopped
Y cup sugar
4 candied cherries, halved
SHAPING AND TOPPING : Cut the dough in half and with your hands
shape each half into a cylinder about 1 8 inches long and 1 Y inches
wide. Place the cylinders side by side on the baking sheet and pi nch the
tops together so that the cylinders form a narrow "V. " Following the
diagram above, shape the dough into a twist about 1 4 inches long. Set
the twist aside to rise for 4 5 minutes, or until it doubles in bulk.
Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 . With a pastry brush, coat the twist with the
combined egg yolk and milk, then mix the almonds, sugar and cinnamon,
and sprinkle them over the top. Set the candied cherry halves in two
rows along the length of the twist. Bake in the center of the oven for
about 2 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Turn the cherry twist out on a
wire rack to cool. Serve it warm or at room temperature.
Cinnamon Wreath
To make one 1 2-inch wreath
1 recipe Swedish cherry twist dough
(opposite)
softened
Y cup plus 3 tablespoons.sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
Y teaspoon ground cardamom
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with 1
tablespoon water
Grease a baking sheet with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Prepare the dough
for the Swedish cherry twist and roll it into a rectangle about 1 5 inches
long and 1 0 inches wide, sprinkling a little four over and under it as you
roll to prevent the dough from sticking to the board.
Continued on next page 1 03
In a small bowl, mix together V cup of the sugar, the cinnamon and
teaspoon of the cardamom. With a pastry brush, spread the remain
ing 4 tablespoons of butter over the dough, then sprinkle with the sugar
and-spice mixture.
Starting at the longer edge of the rectangle, roll the dough j elly-roll
fashion into a compact cylinder and place it, seam side down, on the
greased baking sheet. Shape the dough into a ring and pinch the edges to
gether. With a sharp knife or pair of scissors, cut through the dough at ap
proximately 2-inch intervals, starting from the outside edge and cutting
two thirds of the way through. Separate the sections of dough, turning
each one half turn to the right, exposing the center and overlapping them
slightly (diagram below) . Drape a kitchen towel over the wreath and set
it aside to rise again for about 1 hour, or until it doubles in volume.
Preheat the oven to 3 75 . With a pastry brush, coat the wreath with
the combined egg yolk and water, then quickly mix together the remain
ing 3 tablespoons of sugar and teaspoon of cardamom, and sprinkle
the mixture over the top. Bake in the center of the oven for about 2 5 min
utes, until it is golden brown. Traditionally, this cinnamon wreath is
served for breakfast, accompanied by butter. Should you have any of the
wreath left over, it makes excellent toast.
__)
1 04
Black Walnut Angel Bread
To make one 9-by- 5- i nch loaf
2 tablespoons plus 2 cups four
1 Y cups confectioners' sugar
Y cup milk
5 egg whites
1 cup shelled black walnuts,
pulverized i n a blender or with a
nut grinder or mortar and pestle,
plus Y cup shelled black
walnuts, fnely chopped
Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 . With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of
the softened butter over the bottom and si des of a 9-by- 5 -by- 3- inch loaf
pan. Sprinkle the butter with 2 tablespoons of the four, tippi ng the pan
from side to side to distribute it evenly. Turn the pan over and rap it sharp
ly on a table to remove the excess four. Set the pan aside.
In a deep bowl, cream the remaining 8 tablespoons of butter and the
sugar together, beating and mashing them against the si des of the bowl
with the back of a spoon until the mixture is l ight and fufy. Beat i n Y
cup of four and, when it is thoroughly i ncorporated, add 2 tablespoons
of the milk. Repeat, three more times, alternating Y cup four with 2 ta
blespoons of milk, and continue beating until the batter is smooth.
With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the egg whites in
another bowl-preferably one of unlined copper-until they are stif
enough to stand in frm, unwavering peaks on the beater when it is li fted
up out of the bowl .
Stir 2 or 3 large spoonfuls of egg white into the batter to lighten it.
Then scoop the remaining egg whites over the batter and, with a rubber
spatula, fold them together gently but thoroughly. Fold in the pulverized
walnuts and pour the batter into the buttered-and-foured pan. Smooth
the top with the spatula and sprinkle it with the chopped nuts.
Bake in the middle of the oven for 5 0 to 60 minutes, or until a tooth
pick or cake tester inserted into the center of the bread comes out clean.
Let the bread cool in the pan for about 5 minutes, then turn it out onto a
wire cake rack to cool completely.
1 05
JIGIII I 111111911
How to Prepare and Seal Canning jars
To ensure consistent results in home canning, use standard canning j ars
or j elly glasses with matching lids. Examine each carefully, discarding
those with covers that do not ft securely or those with edges that have
cracks or chips. An airtight seal is imperative.
Wash the j ars, glasses, lids and rings in hot, soapy water and rinse
them with scalding water. Place them in a large, deep pot and pour in
enough hot water to cover them completely. Bring to a boil over high
heat, then turn of the heat and let the pot stand while you fnish cooking
the food that you plan to can. The j ars or glasses must be hot when the
food is placed in them.
To be ready to seal the glasses, grate a 4-ounce bar of parafn into the
top of a double boiler ( preferably one with a pouring spout ) , and melt it
over hot water. Do not let the parafn get so hot that it begins to smoke;
at that temperature it will catch fre easily.
When the food is ready to be canned, lift the j ars or glasses from the
pot with tongs and stand them upright on a level surface. Leave the rings
and lids in the pot until you are ready to use them. Fill and seal the j ars
one at a time, flling each j ar to within Y inch of the top and each glass
to within inch of the top. Each j ar should be sealed quickly and tightly
with its ring and lid. The j elly glasses should also be sealed at once.
Pour a thin layer of the hot parafn over the surface of the j elly, making
sure that it covers the j elly completely and touches all sides of the glass.
If air bubbles appear on the parafn, prick them immediately with the tip
of a knife. Let the glasses rest until the parafn cools and hardens ; then
cover them with metal li ds.
To further ensure against spoilage i n the particular case of pickles and
relishes, fni sh the canning process wi th a hot-water bath. Place the flled
and sealed j ars side by side on a rack in a canner or other deep pot. Pour
in enough hot ( not boiling) water to cover the j ars by 1 inch, tightly
cover the pot, and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Boil j ars of pickles
for 1 0 minutes and relishes for 5 . With tongs, remove the j ars and let
cool at room temperature. Store upright in a cool, dark, dry place.
NOTE : If there is not enough food to fll the last j ar or glass completely,
do not attempt to seal it. Refrigerate and use it as soon as possible.
1 06
Carrot Pickles
To make 2 quarts
1 6 medium-sized carrots, scraped
and thinly sliced ( 4 cups )
1 medium-sized onion, peeled and
thinly sliced ( cup)
% cup sugar
teaspoon salt
teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon scraped, thinly slivered
fresh ginger root
Y teaspoon whole cloves
Y teaspoon celery seed
Toss together the sliced carrots and onion i n a large mixing bowl and
pack them tightly into hot sterilized j ars.
In a 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel casserole, combine the
sugar, salt, cinnamon, oil, vinegar, ginger root, cloves and celery seed.
Bring to a boil over moderately high heat, then lower the heat and simmer
uncovered for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
Ladle the simmering liquid over the vegetables a little at a time, al
lowing it to fow through to the bottom of the j ar before adding more.
Fill each of the j ars to within Y i nch of the top and follow the directions
for canning and sealing opposite.
Pickled Prunes
To make about 1 quart
2 cups water
1 cup distilled white vi negar
2 cups dark-brown sugar, frmly
packed
2 sticks cinnamon
3 tablespoon whole cloves
1 teaspoon whole allspi ce
1 pound dried unpitted prunes
In a 1 - to 2-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine the
water, vinegar, sugar, cinnamon, cloves and allspice. Bring to a boil over
high heat, then stir in the prunes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer un
covered for 1 5 mi nutes . Pour i nto hot sterilized j ars, following the
instructions for canning and seali ng opposite.
107
Corn Relish
To make 3 quarts
1 pound white cabbage, cored and
fnely chopped
8 cups fresh corn kernels, cut from
about 1 2 large ears of corn
% cup fnely chopped onions
1 cup fnely chopped green bell
peppers
1 cup fnely chopped red bell peppers
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon salt
4 teaspoons celery seed
2Y cups cider vinegar
In a 6- to 8-quart enameled or stainless-steel casserole, combine the cab
bage, corn, onions, peppers, sugar, salt and celery seed. Pour in the vinegar
and, with a wooden spoon, stir the ingredients together. Bring to a boil
over high heat, stirring the mixture frequently, then reduce the heat to
low and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes . Taste for seasoning, then im
mediately ladle the relish into hot steri l ized j ars, following the directions
for canning and sealing on page 1 06.
Tomato Marmalade
To make 3 cups
3 pounds ( about 9 medium- sized)
ripe tomatoes
2 Y cups sugar
J cup strained fresh lemon j uice
1 cup lemon peel ( from about 8
lemons ) , cut with a small knife
or rotary peeler, di scarding any
bitter white pith, then cut into
strips about 1 inch long and Y
inch wide
Y cup crystallized ginger, fnely chopped
Drop the tomatoes into a pan of boili ng water and let them boil briskly
for about 1 0 seconds . Drain, run cold water over them and, with a small,
sharp knife, peel of the ski ns. Cut out and discard the stems, then chop
the tomatoes coarsely. There should be about 5 cups.
In a large glass, ceramic or stainless-steel bowl, combine the tomatoes
and sugar, and toss with a wooden spoon to distribute the sugar evenly.
Let the mixture rest uncovered at room temperature for about 1 hour.
In a 2- to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine the
tomato mixture, lemon j uice, lemon peel and crystallized ginger, and bring
to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Then lower the heat and sim
mer the mixture for 1 hour, or until it is thick enough to hold its shape al
most solidly i n a spoon. Stir frequently while the marmalade thickens to
prevent it from sticking to the pan.
With a slotted spoon, skim of and discard any foam that may appear
on the surface of the marmalade and ladle the marmalade into hot ster
ilized j ars or j elly glasses, following the directions for canning and sealing
on page 1 06.
1 08
Pickled Onions
To make 2 quarts
5 pounds small white onions, each
about 1 i nch in diameter
1 cup salt
1 cup mixed pickling spice
1 quart cider vinegar
1 Y cups sugar
Alum
Drop the onions into a 3- to 4-quart saucepan flled with boiling water,
bring back to a boil, and cook uncovered for 2 to 3 minutes. Pour of the
water and with a small, sharp knife peel the onions.
Place the hot onions in a large mixing bowl, sprinkle with the salt, and
add enough ice water to cover them by about an inch. Soak undisturbed
for 30 minutes, then drain and discard the soaking liqui d. Place the
onions in hot sterilized j ars, sprinkling each layer of onions with the
pickling spice as you proceed.
In a 2- to 3- quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, bring the vinegar
and sugar to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly until the sugar
dissolves. Ladle the mixture over the onions a few tablespoons at a time,
letting it fow through to the bottom before adding more. Add a l -by- Y-
inch piece of alum to each j ar, and seal following the directions on page
1 06. Store for at least 2 weeks before serving.
Raspberry Vinegar
To make 2 quarts
3 pounds fresh raspberries
6 cups malt vinegar
6 cups sugar
Starting three days ahead, place the raspberries in a sieve anc wash them
quickly under cold running water. Drain thoroughly and transfer them
to a glass or ceramic bowl . Pour in the malt vinegar and stir with a wooden
spoon until the berries are thoroughly mixed. Cover with plastic wrap
or aluminum foil and steep undisturbed in a cool place-but not in the
refrigerator-for three days.
Pour the contents of the bowl into a sieve lined with a double thick
ness of cheesecloth and let the liquid drain through. With the back of a
wooden spoon, press down hard on the berries to extract as much of their
j uice as possible before discarding them. Pour the drained liquid into a
3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, stir in the sugar, and bring to
a boil, stirring constantly until the sugar has dissolved. Let the vinegar
boil vigorously for 3 minutes, then slowly pour through a funnel set into
the mouth of pint- or quart-sized bottles and cool to room temperature
before corki ng tightly.
Or, if you are not planning to use the raspberry vinegar within the
following month, ladle the hot vinegar into hot sterilized j ars and seal
them at once, following the directions for canning and sealing given on
page 1 06.
Traditionally raspberry vinegar is used in place of other vinegars as a
dressing for frui t salad. It is also used to make a refreshing summer
drink by combining the vinegar and cold water ( i n the proportion of Y
cup raspberry vinegar to cup water ) , then pouring this mixture into
tall ice-flled glasses.
Spiced Plums
To serve 6 to 8
2 pounds medium-sized frm ripe
red plums ( about 1 2 )
2 cups water
1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon j uice
6 whole cloves
Wash the plums under cold running water, drain well, and prick each
fruit deeply in three or four places with the point of a small, thin skewer.
Place the plums i n a heatproof glass or ceramic bowl .
Combine the wine, water, lemon j uice, mace and cloves in a small en
ameled or stainless-steel pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Pour the
hot liquid over the fruit, turn the plums about with a spoon and let them
soak at room temperature for an hour. Drain the liquid back into the pan
and repeat the boiling and soaking procedure two more times.
Transfer the plums to a serving di sh with a slotted spoon, moisten
them with a few spoonfuls of the spiced li quid and serve at once, as an
accompaniment to roast meats and game. Or cover the bowl with plastic
wrap and refrigerate the plums in the spiced li quid until ready to serve.
Cranberr
y
Ketchup
To make 1 pint
1 pound fresh cranberries
Y cup water
Y cup white distilled vi negar
1 cup sugar
% teaspoon ground cloves
% teaspoon ground cinnamon
% teaspoon ground allspice
% teaspoon salt
% teaspoon celery seed
pepper
Wash the cranberries under cold running water. Combine them with the
chopped onion and the water in a 2- to 3-quart enameled or stainless
steel saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low,
1 1 0
cover the pan tightly, and simmer for 1 0 to 1 2 minutes, or until the mix
ture can be easily mashed against the side of the pan with a spoon.
Puree the cranberry mixture-with i ts cooking liquid-through the
fne blade of a food mill or rub it through a fne sieve with the back of a
spoon, pressing down hard on the berries before discarding the skins.
Pour the puree back into the saucepan and stir in the vinegar, sugar,
cloves, cinnamon, allspice, salt, celery seed and pepper. Bring to a boil
over high heat and cook uncovered for 1 5 minutes, or until most of the liq
uid i n the pan has evaporated and the ketchup is thick enough to hold its
shape almost solidly in a spoon. Stir from time to time to prevent the
ketchup from sticking to the pan. With a slotted spoon, skim of and dis
card any foam that may appear on the surface of the ketchup and taste for
seasoning. Ladle the hot ketchup i nto hot sterilized j ars, following the
directions for canning and sealing on page 1 06.
Traditionally, cranberry ketchup is served as an accompaniment t o wild
game, other meats or poultry.
Plum Ketchup
To make 3 cups
3 pounds frm ripe tart plums
1 Y pounds ( 3 % cups ) sugar
1 cup cider vinegar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
% teaspoon ground cloves
pepper
With a small, sharp knife, slit the plums open and remove and discard
the pits. Wash the plums under cold running water, then place them in a
heavy 2 - to 3- quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan. Add the sugar
and vinegar and, with a wooden spoon, stir until the sugar has almost dis
solved. Bring to a boil over high heat, lower the heat, and simmer the
plums, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is tender enough to be easily
mashed against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon. Now stir in the
cinnamon, mace, cloves, pepper and nutmeg, and raise the heat to high.
Boil briskly, stirring frequently to prevent the mixture from sticking to
the pan, for about 4 5 minutes, or until the ketchup has reached 2 1 5 on a
candy thermometer. With a slotted spoon, skim of and discard any foam
that may appear on the surface of the ketchup and ladle the ketchup at
once into hot, sterilized j ars or glasses, following the directions for can
ning and sealing on page 1 06. The ketchup provides an excellent accom
paniment to wild game, other meats or poultry.
1 1 1
Apricot and Pineapple jam
To make 3 pints
3 pounds unpeeled frm ripe
apricots
2 V pounds sugar ( 6! cups )
1 cup cold water
2 cups fnely diced fresh pi neapple
Wash the apricots under cold running water. With a small, sharp knife,
cut them i n half, remove the pits, and set the pits aside. Place the halved
apricots i n a deep mixing bowl, add the sugar and, with a wooden spoon,
toss the fruit to distribute the sugar evenly.
With a nutcracker or the fat side of a heavy knife or cleaver, split as
many of the apricot pits as you need to obtain V cup of the kernels. Dis
card the cracked shells and the remaining pits.
In a 2- to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine the
sugared apricots with the water and mix them together thoroughly with a
wooden spoon. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly, then
lower the heat and, stirring frequently, simmer the mixture uncovered
for about 45 minutes, or until the j am is thick enough to hold its shape
loosely in the spoon. Stir in the reserved apricot kernels and the pine
apple, and simmer over very low heat until the j am registers 220 on a
candy thermometer.
With a slotted spoon, skim of and discard any foam from the surface.
Then ladle the hot j am i nto hot sterilized j ars or j elly glasses, following
the directions for canning and sealing on page 1 06.
Rhubarb- Ginger jam
4 pounds frm fresh rhubarb,
trimmed, washed and cut i nto
V-inch pieces ( about 8 cups )
8 cups ( 4 pounds ) sugar
V cp water
4 ounces preserved candied ginger,
fnely chopped
V cup strained fresh lemon j uice
Y cup fnely chopped lemon peel
Combine the rhubarb, sugar and water in a 6- to 8- quart enameled or stain
less-steel pot and, stirring frequently, cook over low heat until the sug. r
is completely dissolved and the rhubarb somewhat soft. The bottom of
the pan should be covered with liquid to a depth of at least 1 inch.
1 1 2
Increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Cook briskly,
uncovered, until the j am reaches a temperature of 2 2 1 on a j elly, candy
or deep-frying thermometer. Stir it frequently as it begins to thicken, and
regulate the heat if necessary to prevent the j am from sticking to the
bottom and sides of the pot.
Remove from the heat and stir in the ginger, lemon j uice and lemon
peel . With a slotted spoon skim of any foam that may appear on the sur
face and ladle the j am into hot sterilized j ars or j elly glasses, following
the di rections for canning and sealing on page 1 06.
Pear Honey
To make about 1 quart
6Y to 7 pounds frm ripe pears,
peeled and cut in half lengthwise
2 cups sugar
4 teaspoons fnely grated fresh
lemon peel
With a small, sharp knife, cut out and discard the cores of the pears.
Grate the pears on the fnest blades of a standing four-sided grater. Com
bine the pear pulp and the sugar in a 3- quart enameled or stainless-steel
saucepan and, stirring constantly, bring to a boil over high heat. Then re
duce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for about 45 minutes, or
until the mixture is thick enough to hold its shape in a spoon. ( As it
simmers, with a large spoon skim of any foam that rises to the surface, and
stir the puree frequently to prevent it from sticking to the pan. )
Stir in the lemon peel and simmer for 2 minutes longer, then remove
from the heat and pour into hot sterilized j ars, following the directions
for canning and sealing on page 1 06.
1 1 3
DIBIIRB
Strawberry Fran go
To serve 8 to 1 0
1 quart fresh strawberries, washed
and hulled
1 cup milk
4 egg yolks
1 cup sugar
Y teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups heavy cream, chilled
Crush the berries by mashing them against the sides of a bowl with a
spoon and continue to mash until the berries are a smooth puree. Chill
for at least 30 minutes.
Pour the milk i nto a heavy 2- to 3- quart enameled or stainless-steel
saucepan and set it over moderate heat. When small bubbles form around
the edges of the pan, immediately remove from the heat. Cover the pan
and set the milk aside.
In a large mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks and sugar together with a
whisk or a rotary or electric beater until they are thick enough to form a
slowly dissolving ri bbon when the beater is lifted from the bowl. Grad
ually pour in the milk, whisking all the while. Then beat in the vanilla ex
tract and pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Stir over low heat
until the custard thickens lightly; do not let it come to a boil or it will
curdle. Pour into a mixing bowl and cool to room temperature. Then
refrigerate for 30 minutes.
In a chilled mixing bowl , beat the heavy cream with a whisk or a rotary
or electric beater until it forms frm peaks. Remove the custard from the
refrigerator and, with a rubber spatula, fold in the berries and then
the whipped cream. Spoon the mixture into a 2-quart mold and smooth the
top with a spatula. Cover with plastic wrap or foil, and freeze for at
least 6 hours, or until frm. In its frozen form the custard is known in the
Northwest as a frango.
1 1 4
7
Rhubarb Ring with Strawberries
To sere 6
2 pounds fresh rhubarb, trimmed,
washed and cut into Y- inch
pieces ( about 4 cups )
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
1 Y cups water
1 tablespoon rum
2 cups fresh ripe strawberries,
hulled
Confectioners' sugar
Brush the tablespoon of oil evenly over the inside surfaces of a 1 -quart
ring mold, and wipe away all excess with a paper towel .
Combine the rhubarb, 1 cup of the sugar and 1 cup of the water in a
2- to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and bring to a boil over
high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Reduce the heat to low and
simmer partially covered for about 1 0 minutes, or until the rhubarb is
tender but still i ntact.
Meanwhile, sprinkle the 2 envelopes of gelatin into the remaining Y
cup of water and let it soften for 4 or 5 minutes. Add the gelatin to the
rhubarb mixture and stir until it dissolves completely. Then pour the mix
ture into the oiled ring mold, spreading it and smoothing the top with a
spoon or rubber spatula. Cool to room temperature, cover the mold with
foil or plastic wrap, then refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or until it is frm
to the touch.
Just before serving, pour the cream into a large chilled bowl . Whip
with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater until the cream is stif
enough to stand i n frm, unwavering peaks on the beater when it is l ifted
from the bowl . Beat in the remaining tablespoon of sugar and the rum,
and taste for sweetness.
To unmold and serve the rhubarb ring, run a thin knife around the
sides of the mold and dip the bottom briefy into hot water. Place an in
verted serving plate on top of the mold and, grasping plate and mold to
gether frmly, turn them over. Rap the plate on a table and the rhubarb
ring should slide out easily. Arrange a row of strawberries around the
ring and mound the rest of the berries in the center of the mold. Sprinkle
the berries with confectioners' sugar. Serve the whipped cream separately
from a small bowl .
1 1 5
Wined Pears
To serve 4
1 cup red wine vi negar
Y cup dry red wine
2 cups sugar
2 three-i nch cinnamon sticks, or
substitute 1 teaspoon ground
onnamon
6 whole cloves
4 medium-sized frm ripe pears,
peeled, cut lengthwise i n half and
cored
Combine the vinegar, wine, sugar, cinnamon and cloves in a 3- to 4-quart
enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and bring to a boil over moderate
heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Boil the syrup briskly, uncovered,
for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to low.
Add the pear halves to the syrup and turn them about with a spoon
until they are evenly coated. Partially cover the pan and simmer for 1 0 to
1 5 minutes, or until the pears are tender and show only the barest re
sistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp
knife. Remove the pan from the heat and let the pears cool to lukewarm
in the syrup.
If you would like to serve the pear halves warm, di scard the cinnamon
sticks and cloves and, with a slotted spoon, transfer the halves to dessert
dishes. Spoon some of the syrup over them before serving. To serve the
pears cold, refrigerate them in the syrup until they are thoroughly chilled.
They may also be served hot or cold with broiled or roasted meat.
Dreams
To make about thirty 1 Y- i nch
round drop cookies
1 Y cups four
Y teaspoon ground cardamom
Y cup sugar
1 egg
1 cup whole flberts, shelled
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . With a pastry brush, spread 2 tablespoons of
the softened butter evenly over two large baking sheets. Combine the
four, baking soda and cardamom, and sift them together onto a plate or
a piece of wax paper. Set aside.
sugar together, beating and mashing them against the side of the bowl
with the back of a spoon until the mixture is l ight and fufy. Beat in the
egg and, when it is thoroughly incorporated, add the four mixture about
Y cup at a time, beating well after each addition.
1 1 6
To shape each dream, scoop up about 1 tablespoon of the dough, then
pat and roll it into a ball about 1 i nch in diameter. Arrange the cookies 2
inches apart on the buttered baking sheets and press a whole flbert gently
but frmly into the center of each one. Bake i n the middle of the oven
for about 1 0 minutes, or until the cookies are frm to the touch and a
delicate golden-brown color.
Immediately transfer the cookies to wire cake racks with a metal spatula
to cool to room temperature. The dreams can be kept safely i n tightly
covered j ars or tins for several weeks.
Blueberry Roll
To serve 6
1 pint ( 2 cups ) fresh ripe
blueberries
Y cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons butter, chilled and
cut into !-i nch bits
2 cups four
powder
Y teaspoon salt
1 egg
Y cup milk
Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 . Wash the blueberries i n a sieve or colander
set under cold running water, discarding any that are blemished. Then
spread the berries on paper towels and pat them completely dry. Drop
the berries into a bowl , add Y cup of the sugar and toss gently but thor
oughly together.
With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter evenly
over the bottom of a 1 6-by- 1 1 - inch j elly-roll pan.
Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar, the four, baking
powder and salt in a deep bowl . Add the 6 tablespoons of butter bits and,
with your fngertips, rub the four and butter together until they resemble
fakes of coarse meal . Add the egg and milk, and beat vigorously with a
spoon until the dough is smooth and can be gathered i nto a compact ball .
On a lightly foured surface, roll the dough out into a rectangle about
1 6 inches long, 1 0 inches wide and ! inch thick. Spread the surface of
the dough with the remaining 2 tablespoons of softened butter and scatter
the sugared berries evenly over it. Starting at one long end, roll up the
rectangle j elly-roll fashion into a tight cylinder, sealing the ends.
Carefully transfer the blueberry roll to the buttered pan and bake i n
the middle of the oven for 1 hour, or until it is golden brown. Slide the
roll onto a wi re rack to cool to room temperature before serving.
1 1 7
Krumkaker
PASTRY CONES FILLED WITH CANDIED WHIPPED CREAM
To make 1 6
PASTRY
2 eggs
V cup superfne sugar
3 tablespoons four
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
A special krumkaker iron somewhat similar to a wafe iron, and heated
on top of the stove, and its accompanying cone-shaped tube are recom
mended for the preparation of these pastry cones. These implements can
be purchased at specialized cookware shops.
In a large bowl , beat the eggs and superfne sugar together with a wire
whisk or a rotary or electric beater and continue to beat until the mixture
has thickened and almost tripled in volume. Stir i n the four, a tablespoon
at a time, and mix until the batter is smooth.
Lightly butter the cone-shaped tube and heat the krumkaker iron over
moderate heat. When it is very hot, use a pastry brush to coat both its sur
faces lightly with the melted butter. Drop 1 tablespoon of the batter i nto
the center of the iron, close it, and cook for about 30 seconds. Turn the
iron over and cook for another 30 seconds, then turn again and remove
from the heat. Open the iron and peel of the golden pastry. Immediately
wrap the cookie around the tube; as soon as it hardens, slip it of and set
aside. Repeat with the remaining batter, buttering the iron and tube for
each cone you make.
CANDIED WHIPPED CREAM
1 ; cups heavy cream, chilled
1 tablespoon sugar
% teaspoon vanilla extract
3 ounces peppermint candy,
pulverized in a blender or
wrapped in a towel and crushed
with a rolling pin ( V cup)
The pastry cones can be baked several days in advance and kept crisp
in airtight containers. Just before you are ready to serve the cones, whip
the chilled cream with a whisk or a rotary or electric beater in a large,
chilled bowl until it thickens . Add the tablespoon of sugar and the
vanilla, and continue to beat until the cream is stif enough to form
unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl . Fold in
the candy with a rubber spatula, and spoon the cream into a pastry bag
ftted with a plain or decorative tip. Pipe the cream into the pastry cones
and serve at once. Once flled, the pastry cones cannot be refrigerated or
they will lose their crispness.
1 1 8
Ginger Cookies
To make about 5 dozen rolled
cookies
2 cups four
1 Y teaspoons baking soda
1 tablespoon ground ginger
Y teaspoon ground cloves
1 cup dark-brown sugar
Y cup dark molasses
teaspoon lemon extract
Y cup heavy cream
Y cup fnely chopped crystallized
ginger
Combine the four, baking soda, ginger, cloves and mace, and sift them
onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper. In a deep bowl, cream 4 tablespoons
of the butter with the brown sugar, beating and mashing them against
the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until they are l ight and
fufy. Mix in the molasses and the lemon extract.
Beat in about Y cup of the four mixture and, when it is thoroughly in
corporated, add 1 or 2 tablespoons of the cream. Repeat three more times,
alternating Y cup of the four with 1 or 2 tablespoons of the cream and
beating well after each addition. Then stir in the chopped crystallized gin
ger, and shape the dough into a ball, then cut it i n half. Wrap i n wax
paper and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or overnight, until the dough
is completely chilled.
softened butter over two large baking sheets.
On a lightly foured surface, roll half of the dough into a rough rec
tangle about Ys inch thick. With a round or decorative cutter or the rim
of a glass, cut the dough i nto individual cookies and arrange these about
1 inch apart on the buttered baking sheets. Gather the scraps of dough
into a ball, roll it out as before and cut as many more cookies as you can.
Bake in the middle of the oven for about 8 mi nutes, or until the ginger
cookies are crisp around the edges. With a metal spatula transfer them to
wire racks to cool.
Let the baking sheets cool to room temperature, then brush them with
the remaining tablespoon of softened butter. Roll out the remaining half
of the dough and cut it as before. Arrange the cookies on the baking
sheets and bake for 8 minutes, or until crisp. Cool them on wire racks. In
tightly covered j ars or tins, the ginger cookies can safely be kept for two
or three weeks.
1 1 9
Spritz Cookies
To make about 4 dozen pressed
cookies
1 cup butter, softened
1 cup sugar
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon almond extract
2Y cups four
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . In a deep bowl , cream the butter and sugar to
gether by beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with
the back of a large spoon until they are l ight and fufy. Beat i n the egg
yolks and, when they are well incorporated, add the almond extract. Sift
the four i nto the mixture about
Y cup at a time, beating the dough well
after each addition.
Place the dough i n a pastry bag or cookie press ftted wi th a medium
sized star tip. Pipe the dough out onto ungreased baking sheets, forming
rings about 1 Y inches in diameter or "S" shapes or crescents about 2
inches long, spaced about 1 inch apart.
Bake in the middle of the oven for about 1 0 minutes, or until the cook
ies are frm and del icately browned. With a wide metal spatula, transfer
them immediately to wire racks to cool . The cookies can be stored for sev
eral weeks in tightly sealed j ars or tins.
Filbert Macaroons
To make about 2 dozen l - inch
round drop cookies
Y pound flberts ( 1 Y cups )
1 cup sugar
3 egg whites
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . With a pastry brush, spread the softened but
ter over two large baking sheets. Then sprinkle each of them with a ta
blespoon of the cornstarch, tipping the sheets from side to side to spread
the cornstarch evenly. Turn the sheets over and rap them sharply on a
table to remove the excess cornstarch. Set them aside.
Spread the flberts out on a cookie sheet or j elly-roll pan and roast in
the mi ddle of the oven for 20 minutes. Transfer to a damp kitchen towel
and rub with another damp towel to remove the skins . Pulverize the
peeled nuts in a blender or nut grinder.
1 20
With a large mortar and pestle or in a deep bowl with the back of a
wooden spoon, pound the pulverized flberts and sugar together. When
they are well combined, beat i n the egg whites one at a time and continue
to pound until the doughlike mixture is smooth and thick enough to hold
its shape almost solidly.
Reduce the oven temperature to 300 . Drop the dough by the table
spoonful onto the prepared baking sheets, spacing the macaroons about
an inch apart. Bake in the middle of the oven for about 30 minutes, or
until the macaroons are a delicate golden brown and frm to the touch.
With a large metal spatula, immediately transfer the macaroons to wire
racks to cool . In a tightly covered jar or tin, the flbert macaroons can be
kept safely for several weeks.
Rye Cookies
To make about 40 rolled cookies
2 teaspoons butter, softened, plus
1 pound unsalted butter, cut
i nto 1-inch bits and softened
Y cup sugar
1 l cups rye four combined with
1 l cups all-purpose four
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . With a pastry brush, spread the 2 teaspoons or
softened butter over two large baking sheets. Set aside.
In a deep bowl, cream the butter bits and the sugar together by beating
and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon
until they are light and fufy. Add the four, about V cup at a time, and
beat well after each addition. Gather the dough into a ball, wrap i n wax
paper and refrigerate for 1 0 or 1 5 minutes.
On a l ightly foured surface, roll out the dough into a rough rectangle
about l inch thick and, with a 2 V-inch doughnut cutter, cut it into
rings. Arrange the cookie rings about 1 inch apart on the buttered baking
sheets with a wide metal spatula. Then gather the scraps of dough i nto a
ball; roll it out as before, and cut as many more rye cookies as you can.
Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 5 minutes, or until the cookies are
delicately browned. With a large metal spatula, transfer the cookies to
wire racks to cool . In a tightly covered j ar or tin, rye cookies can safely be
kept for one to two weeks.
1 2 1
Vienna Sticks
To make 3 dozen 2-by- 1 -inch rolled
cookies
1 0 tablespoons butter, softened
; cup granulated white sugar
1 ; to 1 Y cups four
6 tablespoons apricot or raspberry
preserves
Y cup confectioners' sugar
2 teaspoons warm water
2 drops almond extract
Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 . With a pastry brush, spread 2 tablespoons of
the softened butter evenly over two large baking sheets. Set aside.
granulated sugar together, beating and mashing them against the sides of
the bowl with the back of a spoon until the mixture is light and fufy.
Add 1 ; cups of the four Y cup at a time, beating well after each addi
tion. The dough should be frm enough to be gathered i nto a compact
ball. If necessary, add up to Y cup more four by the tablespoonful .
When the dough becomes too stif to stir easily, knead in the remaining
four with your fngers.
Place the dough on a lightly foured surface and pat it into a rough rec
tangle about 1 inch thick. Dust a little four over and under it and roll the
dough out from the center to within an i nch of the far edge. Lift the
dough and turn it at right angles ; roll again from the center to within an
inch or so of the far edge. Repeat-lifting, turning, rolling-until the rec
tangle is about 1 2 i nches long, 6 inches wide and ; inch thick.
With a ruler and a pastry wheel or sharp knife, trim the dough to ex
actly 1 2 by 6 inches. Then cut the rectangle lengthwise i nto six strips,
each 1 2 inches long and 1 i nch wide. Using the handle of a wooden
spoon or of a table knife, gently but frmly press a groovelike indentation
about Y inch deep along the length of each strip of dough.
Brush 1 tablespoon of apricot or raspberry preserves evenly i nto the in
dentation i n each strip, then cut the strips crosswise i nto 2- inch lengths .
Arrange the cookies on the buttered baking sheets with a metal spatula,
spacing them about 3 inches apart.
Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes, or until the Vi
enna sticks are frm to the touch and a delicate golden brown. Immediately
transfer the cookies to wire cake racks to cool.
While the Vienna sticks are still warm, stir the confectioners' sugar,
water and almond extract together in a bowl and spoon the mixture evenly
over the apricot or raspberry preserves.
1 22
Royal Rhubarb Cake
To serve 6
4 tablespoons butter, chilled and
cut into Y-i nch bits
1 pound fresh rhubarb, trimmed,
washed and cut i nto -i nch
pieces (about 2 cups )
% cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose
four
1 tablespoon freshly grated orange
peel
2 teaspoons double- acting baking
powder
teaspoon salt
1 egg, lightly beaten and combined
with 3 tablespoons milk
3 tablespoons strained fresh orange
j uice
softened butter over the bottom and sides of an 8-by-6-by- 2- i nch bak
ing dish. Arrange the rhubarb pieces in one layer on the bottom of the
dish. Mix % cup of the sugar, 2 tablespoons of the four, the orange
peel and the cinnamon together in a bowl, and sprinkle over the rhubarb.
Combine the remaining cup of four, 2 tablespoons of the remaining
sugar, the baking powder and the salt, and sift them into a bowl . Add the
4 tablespoons of butter bits and, with your fngertips, rub the four and
fat together until they resemble fakes of coarse meal . Pour in the egg-and
milk mixture and mix with your fngers or a wooden spoon until the
dough i s smooth. Spoon over the rhubarb and smooth the top with a spat
ula. Bake i n the middle of the oven for 25 minutes. Then mix the orange
j uice and the remaining tablespoon of sugar and brush over the top of
the cake. Bake for 1 5 minutes longer, or until the top is brown and a
toothpick or cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean.
Remove the cake from the oven and run a thin-bladed knife around
the edges to loosen the sides. Place an inverted serving plate over the
cake and, grasping plate and baking dish together frmly, turn them over.
Rap the plate on a table; the cake should then slide out easily. If any bits
of rhubarb stick to the baking dish, lift them out and replace them on the
cake. Serve at once, accompanied by the chilled cream.
1 23
Filbert Applesauce Cake
To serve 8 to 1 0
6 medium-sized tart cooking apples
( about 2 pounds ) , peeled, cored
1 Y cups sugar
; cup water
j uice
1 cup pitted dried prunes
2 tablespoons plus 2 cups four
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 Y cups blanched shelled flberts,
fnely chopped
1 cup seedless raisins
First prepare the applesauce i n the following fashion : Combine the ap
ples, Y cup of the sugar, the water and the lemon j uice in a 2- to 3-
quart enameled saucepan. Bring to a boil over moderate heat, stirring
until the sugar dissolves. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially cov
ered until the apples are soft and most of the liquid i n the pan has evap
orated. Then mash the apples against the sides of the pan with the back
of a spoon and, stirring constantly, continue to simmer until the ap
plesauce is thick enough to hold its shape almost solidly in the spoon.
Puree the applesauce through a food mill set over a bowl, or rub it through
a fne sieve with the back of the spoon. Set aside to cool completely to
room temperature.
Meanwhile, drop the prunes into a small saucepan and pour in enough
water to cover them by at least 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then
remove the pan from the heat, cover, and let the prunes soak in the cook
ing liquid for 1 5 minutes. Drain the prunes, chop them fne, and let
them cool completely.
the softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9-by- 5 -by- 3- inch loaf
pan. Add 2 tablespoons of four and tip the pan from side to side to dis
tribute it evenly. Invert the pan and rap sharply to remove the excess four.
Combine the remaining 2 cups of four wi th the baking soda, ci n
namon and cloves, and sift them onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper.
In a deep bowl, cream the remaining 8 tablespoons of softened butter
and 1 cup of sugar together, beating and mashing them against the sides
of the bowl with a spoon until the mixture is light and fufy. Beat i n the
egg and the vanilla extract and, when they are well incorporated, add the
applesauce, prunes, flberts and raisins. Stir in the four mixture, Y cup
at a time, beating well after each addition.
Pour the batter into the buttered-and-foured pan, smoothing it and
spreading the top with a spatula. Bake in the middle of the oven for 1
1 24
hour, or until a toothpick or cake tester inserted in the center comes out
clean. Turn the cake out onto a wire rack to cool . Serve the cake warm, or
at room temperature.
NOTE : If you cannot buy blanched flberts, spread unblanched ones out
on a cookie sheet or j elly-roll pan and roast i n the middle of a preheated
3 5 0 oven for 20 minutes. Then transfer to a damp kitchen towel and
rub with another damp towel to remove the ski ns.
Professor's Cake
To serve 4
! cup soft fresh crumbs made
8 tablespoons butter, melted and
cooled
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
Y cup four
Y cup fnely chopped almonds
Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 . Spread the bread crumbs i n a small shallow
pan and, stirring frequently, toast them in the middle of the oven for
about 5 minutes, or until they are golden brown and crisp. Turn the
crumbs out onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper to cool.
Wi th a pastry brush, spread the 2 tablespoons of softened butter over
the bottom and si des of a 9- inch round cake pan. Add the toasted crumbs,
then tip the pan from side to side to distribute them evenly over the bot
tom and sides of the pan.
In a deep bowl, combine the 8 tablespoons of melted and cooled butter
and the sugar, and mix well. With a wooden spoon, beat i n the eggs,
then add the four and almonds, and beat until the batter is smooth.
Pour the batter i nto the crumb-li ned cake pan. Then bake i n the mid
dle of the preheated oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes, or until the cake begins
to draw away from the si des of the pan and a toothpick or cake tester in
serted in the center comes out clean. Serve hot or at room temperature, di
rectly from the pan.
1 2 5
Marble Spice Cake
To make one 9Y- i nch cake
1 tablespoon butter, softened 2 tablespoons four
softened butter over the bottom and sides of a tube cake pan 9Y inches
in diameter and 3 % i nches deep. Add 2 tablespoons of four and tip the
pan from side to side to coat it evenly. Then invert the pan and rap the
bottom sharply to remove the excess four.
SPI CE CAKE
2 cups cake four, si fted before
measuring
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 Y teaspoons ground cinnamon
teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons vegetable shortening
1 cup dark-brown sugar, frmly
packed
4 egg yolks
Y cup dark molasses
1 cp buttermilk
For the spice cake, combine the 2 cups of cake four, the baking soda,
cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and teaspoon of salt, and sift them into a
bowl . In another bowl, cream the vegetable shortening and brown sugar
together, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with
the back of a spoon until they are l ight and fufy. Beat i n the egg yolks,
one at a time, and then the molasses. Stir i n about Y cup of the four mix
ture and, when it is well i ncorporated, add cup of the buttermilk. Re
peat three more times, alternately adding Y cup of the four mixture
and cup of the buttermilk, and continue to beat until the batter is
smooth. Set aside.
WHITE CAKE
2Y cups cake four, sifted before
measuring
2 teaspoons double-acti ng baking
powder
\ teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
% cup milk
4 egg whites
For the white cake, combine the 2 Y cups of cake four, the baking
powder and teaspoon of salt, and sift them into a bowl . In another
bowl, cream the 8 tablespoons of softened butter and the sugar together,
beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of
a spoon until they are l ight and fufy. Stir i n about Y cup of the four
1 26
mixture and, when it is well incorporated, add 2 or 3 tablespoons of the
milk. Repeat three more times, alternately adding Y cup of the four mix
ture and 2 or 3 tablespoons of milk, and continue to beat until the batter
is smooth. Stir in the vanilla.
With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the egg whites
until they are stif enough to stand in frm, unwavering peaks on the beater
when it is lifted from the bowl. Pour the egg whites over the white
cake batter and, with a rubber spatula, fold them together gently.
To create a marbleized efect with the two cake batters, scoop about
cup of each of them into two ladles or small liquid measuring cups. Al
ternately place cup of the dark batter and cup of the l ight batter
next to each other all around the bottom of the pan. Fill the ladles or
cups again and make a second layer placing dark on light and light on
dark. Repeat, alternating dark and l ight batters in each layer, until all the
batter is used.
Bake in the middle of the oven for 5 0 to 60 minutes, or until a tooth
pick or cake tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean.
Let the cake cool in the pan for about 1 0 minutes, then turn it out onto a
wire rack to cool to room temperature.
FROSTING ( optional )
6 one-ounce squares semisweet
chocolate, coarsely chopped
Y-inch bits
Y cup l ight cream
Y teaspoon vani lla extract
Meanwhile, if you want chocolate cream frosting, prepare it in the fol
lowing fashion : In a small, heavy saucepan, melt the chocolate and 3 table
spoons of butter bits over low heat, stirring constantly to prevent the
chocolate from burning. Add the l ight cream, vanilla and cinnamon, and
stir until the mixture is smooth. Remove the pan from the heat and sift in
the confectioners' sugar a few tablespoonfuls at a time, beating well after
each addition. Stirring from time to time, let the frosting cool until it
thickens enough to be easily spread. Then frost the top and sides of the
cake with a metal spatula or table knife.
1 27
Whipped-Cream Cake
To make one 8- i nch layer cake
2 tablespoons plus 2 ! cups cake
four, not the self-rising variety
1 Y cups sugar
powder
Y teaspoon salt
3 Y cups heavy cream, chilled
3 eggs
strawberries
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . With a pastry brush, spread the softened but
ter over the bottom and sides of two 8-by- 1 Y-inch round cake pans.
Add 1 tablespoon of four to each pan, then tip the pans from si de to side
to spread the four evenly. Invert the pans one at a time and rap the bot
tom sharply to remove the excess four. Set aside.
Combine the remaining four, the sugar, baking powder and salt, and
sift them together onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper. Set aside. In a
chilled bowl, beat 1 Y cups of the cream with a wire whisk or a rotary
or electric beater until stif enough to stand in frm peaks on the beater
when it is l ifted from the bowl . Beat in the vanilla and almond extracts.
Wi th the same unwashed beater, beat the eggs in a deep bowl for 4 or
5 minutes, unti l they are thick enough to fall i n a slowly dissolving rib
bon from the l ifted beater. With a rubber spatula scoop the whipped
cream over the eggs and fol d them together using an over-under cutting
motion rather than a stirring motion. Sprinkle the reserved four-and
sugar mixture over the batter about 1 cup at a time, and fold it in gently
but thoroughly.
Pour the batter into the buttered-and-foured cake pans, dividing it
evenly between them and smoothing the top with the spatula. Bake i n the
middle of the oven for about 30 minutes, or until a toothpick or cake test
er inserted i n the middle of the cake comes out clean. Turn the layers out
on wire racks to cool .
Meanwhile, pick over the strawberries, remove the stems or caps and
discard any fruit that is badly bruised or shows signs of mold. Wash the
berries in a sieve or colander under cold running water, drain, then spread
them on paper towels and pat them completely dry. Set the 1 2 best straw
berries aside to garnish the cake and chop the rest coarsely.
Just before serving, beat the remaining 2 cups of cream in a chilled
bowl with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater. When the cream is
stif enough to stand in unwavering peaks, place one cooled cake layer on
a serving plate and spread it evenly with half of the whipped cream. Scat
ter the chopped strawberries over it, and set the second cake layer on top.
1 28
Spread the remaining whipped cream over the cake and decorate the top
with the reserved whole berries. Serve at once.
Huckleberry Cake
To make one 8- i nch cake
1 tablespoon plus Y pound
unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons plus 2Y cups all-
purpose four
1 Y cups sugar
4 eggs
2 Y teaspoons double-acting
baking powder
Y teaspoon salt
1 Y teaspoons vani lla extract
1 Y cups huckleberries, or
substitute 1 Y cups blueberries,
washed
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 o . With a pastry brush, spread the bottom and
sides of an 8- inch springform cake pan with 1 tablespoon of the softened
butter. Sprinkle evenly with 2 tablespoons of the four, then invert and
rap against a hard surface to dislodge any excess four. Set aside.
Cream the Y pound of softened butter and the sugar together by beat
ing and mashing them against the sides of a bowl with the back of a wood
en spoon, or by using an electric mixer set at medium speed. When light
and fufy, beat in the eggs, 1 at a time.
Sift together 2 Y cups of the four, the baking powder and salt. Beat
this into the creamed butter mixture Y cup at a time and, when the in
gredients are well combined, beat in the vanilla extract. Place the berries
in a small mixing bowl and toss with the remaining Y cup of four. With
a rubber spatula, gently fold the berries into the batter, being careful
not to mash them. Pour into the prepared springform pan and bake in
the middle of the oven for about 1 hour, or until a toothpick inserted in
the center of the cake comes out clean. Remove the sides of the spring
form pan and cool the cake for about 1 S minutes.
In a chilled mixing bowl, beat the cream with a whisk or a rotary or elec
tric beater until it begins to thicken. Beat in the confectioners' sugar and
continue to beat until the cream is thick enough to form frm peaks. Serve
at once with the warm huckleberry cake. Transfer the whipped cream to
a serving bowl and present it separately.
1 29
Vinarterta
VIENNA TORTE
To serve 1 0 to 1 2
PASTRY
2 Y cups four
Y teaspoon double-acti ng baking
powder
cardamom
Y teaspoon salt
Y cup sour cream
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
Combine the four, baking soda, baking powder, Y teaspoon cardamom
and Y teaspoon salt, and sift them together onto a plate or a piece of
wax paper. Stir the sour cream and Y teaspoon vanilla extract together
in a cup or small bowl .
In a deep bowl, cream the butter and sugar together, beating and mash
ing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until the
mixture is light and fufy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Then beat in
about Y cup of the four mixture and, when it i s thoroughly i ncorporated,
add 1 tablespoon of the sour-cream mixture. Repeat four more times,
alternating Y cup of the four with 1 tablespoon of the sour cream and
beating well after each addition. Divide the dough into four parts,
shape each part i nto a ball and wrap in wax paper. Refrigerate the dough
for at least 2 hours.
When you are ready to bake the pastry, preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . Roll
out each piece of the dough in the following fashion : Place the dough on
a lightly foured surface and pat it into a rough rectangle about 1 inch
thick. Dust a little four over and under it and roll the dough out, from
the center to within an inch of the far edge. Lift the dough gently and
turn it at right angles ; roll again from the center to within an i nch or so
of the far edge. Repeat-lifting, turning, rolling-until the rectangle is
about 1 4 inches long, 8 to 8Y inches wide and Y inch thick.
With the aid of one or two large metal spatulas carefully place the rec
tangle on one half of a 1 7 -by- 1 4-inch baking sheet. Roll a second piece
of dough into another 1 4-by- 8Y-by- Y-inch rectangle and ft it beside
the frst rectangle to cover the baking sheet completely. Then repeat the
entire procedure to cover another 1 7-by- 1 4-inch baking sheet with the re
maining two pieces of dough.
Bake the pastry in the middle of the oven for 1 0 to 1 2 minutes, or
until it is a delicate brown and the top springs back when prodded gently
with a fnger. With a ruler and a pastry wheel or sharp knife, immedi
ately cut the pastry into four 1 4-by-4Y-inch rectangles . Transfer them
at once to wire racks to cool to room temperature.
1 30
FILLING
1 cup pitted dried prunes
% cup dried apricots
cup sugar
cardamom
Y teaspoon plus Y teaspoon
vanilla extract
Y teaspoon salt
A 1 -ounce square semisweet
chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 egg yolk
Y cup confecti oners' sugar
Meanwhile, prepare the flling : Place the prunes and apricots in a
small enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and pour in enough cold water
to cover the fruit by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the
heat to low, and simmer partially covered for about 20 minutes, or until
the fruit is tender and shows no resi stance when pierced deeply with the
point of a small knife.
Drain of, measure and reserve Y cup of the cooking liquid, discard
ing the remainder. Puree the fruit through a food mill into a bowl or
rub it through a fne sieve with the back of a spoon. Then return the
puree and the reserved Y cup of liquid to the saucepan. Add V cup of
the sugar and Y teaspoon of cardamom and, stirring frequently, simmer
over low heat until the puree is thick enough to hold its shape almost
solidly in the spoon. With a rubber spatula, scrape the fruit mixture i nto
a small bowl . Cool to room temperature, then stir in Y teaspoon of the
vanilla extract and the Y teaspoon of salt.
Place the chocolate in a small heatproof bowl and set it in a pan of
simmering ( not boiling ) water. Stir the chocolate until it has melted, then
remove the bowl from the water and let the chocolate cool to lukewarm.
In a deep bowl, cream 4 tablespoons of softened butter with the re
maining V cup of sugar, beating and mashing them against the sides of
the bowl with the back of a spoon until the mixture is fufy. Beat in the
egg yolk and, when it is completely incorporated, add the chocolate, the
fruit puree and the remaining Y teaspoon of vanilla.
To assemble the vinarterta, place one rectangular layer of pastry on a
serving plate and spread it evenly with about Y cup of the flling mix
ture. Set a second layer of pastry on top, press i t gently i n place, and
spread with Y cup of flling. Repeat fve more times, then set the fnal
layer on top. With a sharp knife carefully cut away any rough edges to
make the cake as symmetrical as possible. Spread the remaining flling
mixture evenly around the sides of the vinarterta and sift the confec
tioners' sugar over the top. Cover the cake with foil and refrigerate for at
least 4 hours before serving.
1 3 1
Custard Angel Cake
To serve 6 to 8
8 egg yolks
1 ! cups sugar
Y cup water
8 egg whites
! teaspoon salt
1 cup cake four ( not the self-rising
variety) , sifted before measuring
1 cup flberts, pulverized in a
blender or with a nut grinder
1 tablespoon fnely grated fresh
orange peel
Preheat the oven to 300 . With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater,
beat the egg yolks for 4 or 5 minutes. They should be thick enough to fall
in a slowly dissolving ribbon when the beater is lifted above the bowl.
Immediately combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and
bring to a boil over moderate heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. In
crease the heat and boil the syrup briskly, uncovered and undisturbed,
until it reaches a temperature of 2 3 5 on a candy thermometer, or until a
drop spooned into a glass of cold water forms a soft ball .
Beating the egg yolks constantly, pour in the syrup in a slow, thin
stream and continue to beat until the mixture has doubled in volume and
cooled. In a separate bowl , beat the egg whites and the salt with a clean
whisk or a rotary or electric beater until they stand in unwavering peaks
on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl .
Stir a few tablespoonfuls of the egg whites into the egg-yolk mixture,
then scoop the mixture over the whites and fold the two together with a
rubber spatula, using an over-under cutting motion rather than a stirring
motion. Sift the four over the top and fold it in gently but thoroughly.
Then fold in the pulverized nuts and grated orange peel .
Pour the batter into an ungreased angel-food tube cake pan and smooth
the top with the spatula. Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 Y hours,
or until the cake begins to shrink away from the sides of the pan and a
toothpick or cake tester inserted in the middle comes out clean.
Invert over a wire rack and let the cake cool to room temperature be
fore removing it from the pan. Then transfer the cake to a large serving
platter. Custard angel cake is often served with ice cream or with fresh
berries and whipped cream.
1 3 2
Short-Crust Pastry
To make one 9- inch pie shell
chilled and cut into Y-i nch bits,
plus 1 tablespoon butter, softened
2 tablespoons lard, chilled and cut
into Y-i nch bits
1 ; cups all-purpose four
1 tablespoon sugar
Y teaspoon salt
3 to 4 tablespoons ice water
PASTRY DOUGH: In a large, chilled bowl, combine the butter bits, lard,
four, sugar and salt. With your fngertips rub the four and fat together
until they look like fakes of coarse meal . Do not let the mixture become
oily. Pour 3 tablespoons of ice water over the mixture all at once, toss to
gether lightly and gather the dough into a ball. If the dough crumbles,
add up to 1 tablespoon more ice water by drops until the particles adhere.
( If you are making a double-crust or lattice-topped pie shell , pour 6 ta
blespoons of ice water over the four-and-fat mixture, toss togeth
e
r and
gather the dough into a ball . If necessary, add up to 2 tablespoons more
ice water by drops. )
Dust the pastry dough with a l ittle four and wrap it in wax paper. Re
frigerate for at least 1 hour before using.
TO MAKE AN UNFILLED PIE SHELL : To prepare a baked but unflled, or
"blind, " pie shell, spread 1 tablespoon of softened butter over the bot
tom and sides of a 9- inch pie tin with a pastry brush.
Preheat the oven to 400 . On a lightly foured surface, pat the dough
into a rough circle about 1 inch thick. Dust a little four over and under
it, and roll it out from the center to within an inch of the far edge of the
pastry. Lift the dough and turn it clockwise about 2 inches ; roll again
from the center to within an i nch or so of the far edge. Repeat-lifting,
turning, rolling-until the circle is about Y inch thick and 1 3 to 1 4 inch
es in diameter. If the dough sticks to the board or table, li ft it gently with
a metal spatula and sprinkle a little four under it.
Drape the dough over the rolling pin, li ft it up, and unroll it slackly
over the buttered pi e tin. Gently press the dough into the bottom and
si des of the tin, being careful not to stretch i t. With a pair of scissors, cut
of the excess dough from the edges, leaving a l -i nch overhang all around
the outside rim.
To prevent the unflled pastry from buckling as it bakes, spread a sheet
of buttered aluminum foil across the tin and press it gently i nto the bot
tom and against the sides of the pastry shell.
TO MAKE A PARTIALLY BAKED PIE SHELL : Bake on the mi ddle shelf of
the oven for 1 0 minutes, then remove the foil . Bake for another 2 minutes.
TO MAKE A FULLY BAKED SHELL : Bake on the middle shelf of the oven
for 1 0 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for another 8 minutes, or
until the shell begins to brown.
Remove the pi e shell from the oven and cool to room temperature be
fore flling.
To make one 9-inch double-crust or
lattice-topped pie
chilled and cut into Y- inch bits,
plus 1 tablespoon butter, softened
4 tablespoons lard, chilled and cut
into Y-inch bits
3 cups all-purpose four
2 tablespoons sugar
Y teaspoon salt
6 to 8 tablespoons ice water
TO MAKE A DOUBLE-CRUST PIE SHELL : Prepare the pastry dough as de
scribed above, using the amounts of ingredients called for in the list for a
double-crust shell, and chill it for at least 1 hour. With a pastry brush,
spread 1 tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9-
inch pie tin. Divide the dough in half and return one part to the refrigera
tor until you are ready to use it.
On a lightly foured surface, roll half of the dough into a circle about
Y inch thick and 1 3 to 14 inches in diameter, following the directions
for the baked unflled pie shell . Drape the dough over the rolling pin,
lift it up, and unroll it slackly over the buttered pie tin. Gently press the
dough into the bottom and sides of the tin, being careful not to stretch it.
With a pair of scissors, cut of the excess dough from the edges. Refrig
erate the pastry shell while you
p
repare the pie flling.
When the pie has been flled, roll out the second half of the dough on
a lightly foured surface, lifting and turning the dough after each rolling
to make a circle about Y inch thick.
With a pastry brush dipped i n cold water, lightly moisten the outside
edge of the pastry shell . Drape the dough over the rolling pin, lift it up,
and unroll it over the pie. Cut of the pastry to within Y inch of the
edges of the tin with scissors, then crimp the top and bottom pastry to
gether frmly with your fngers or press them with the tines of a fork.
Trim the excess pastry from around the rim with a sharp knife, and cut
two or three 1 Y- to 2-inch-long parallel slits about 1 inch apart in the
top crust of the pie.
TO MAKE A LATTICE-TOPPED PIE SHELL : Prepare the pastry dough as
described above. Then, following the directions for a double-crust pie
shell, roll out half of the dough and press it into the pie tin. Trim the
excess pastry from the edges and refrigerate the pastry shell while you
prepare the flling.
1 34
When the pie has been flled, roll out the second half of the dough on
a lightly foured surface, lifting and turning the dough after each rolling,
to make a rough rectangle about 1 2 inches long by 9 i nches wide and
about Y inch thick. With a plain or futed pastry wheel, or a sharp
knife, cut the rectangle into 1 8 strips, each Y inch wide.
pie. Arrange four parallel strips on each side of it, spacing the strips
about Y inch apart. Turn the pie and, in a similar fashion, arrange nine
more strips at right angles ( or diagonally) to the frst series .
With a pastry brush dipped in cold water, lightly moisten the ends of
the strips at the point where they meet the bottom pastry shell . Trim the
excess of the strips and crimp their ends frmly in place with your fngers
or the tines of a fork.
Rhubarb Custard Pie
3 eggs
1 cup sugar
Y cup milk
1 pound fresh rhubarb, trimmed,
washed and cut into Y- i nch dice
( 2 cups )
1 nine-inch short-crust pastry pie
shell (page 1 33), partially baked
and cooled to room temperature
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beat
er, beat the eggs and sugar together in a deep bowl for 4 or 5 minutes, or
until the mixture is thick enough to fall from the beater in a slowly dis
solving ribbon when it is lifted from the bowl . Then add the milk and
beat until it is thoroughly absorbed.
Spread the rhubarb evenly in the cooled, partially baked pie shell and
pour the egg-and-milk mixture over it. Bake i n the middle of the oven
for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the custard is frm and a knife inserted in
the center comes out clean.
Cool the pie to room temperature before serving i t.
1 3 5
Vinegar Pie
Y cup all-purpose four
Y teaspoon ground coriander
teaspoon salt
4 egg whites
1 cup sugar
4 egg yolks
1 cup sour cream
Y cup cider vinegar
1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
1 partially baked 9-inch pie shell
(page 133)
1 cup heav cream, chilled
2 tablespoons confectioners ' sugar
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 . Combine the four, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg,
coriander and salt, and sift them together into a bowl . Set aside.
-preferably in an unlined copper bowl-until they foam. Beating con
stantly, slowly pour i n the sugar and continue to beat until the whites are
frm enough to form stif, unwavering peaks when the beater is lifted out
of the bowl .
In another bowl, with the unwashed beater, beat the egg yolks for 3 to
5 minutes, until they are thick. With a rubber spatula fold the egg whites
into the beaten yolks, using an over-and-under cutting motion rather than
a stirring one. In the same fashion fold in the reserved four mixture,
then the sour cream, vinegar and walnuts. Continue to fold until the liq
uids have been absorbed; be careful, however, not to overfold.
Spoon the flling into the parti ally baked, cooled pie shell and smooth
the top with a rubber spatula. Bake i n the center of the oven for about 35
minutes, until the flling i s frm. Let the pie cool to room temperature.
Just before serving, beat the heavy cream until it holds soft peaks, then
add the confectioners' sugar and beat until the cream is stif. Pipe it on
top of the pie through a pastry bag ftted with a plain or decorative tip, or
spread it over the surface i n decorative swirls with a rubber spatula.
1 36
Prune Pie
2 cups dried pitted prunes
V cup dry sherry
Y cup coarsely chopped walnuts
2 egg whites
3 tablespoons sugar
1 partially baked 9-inch pie shell
(page 133)
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
Place the prunes in a small saucepan and pour in enough water to cover
them by about an inch. Over high heat, bring the water to a boil, then
lower the heat and simmer the prunes for about 20 minutes, or until you
can mash one of them e
a
sily against the side of the pan with the back of a
fork. Drain the prunes through a sieve, discard the cooking li quid, and
transfer the prunes to a large glass or stainless-steel bowl . Pour in the
sherry and toss the prunes about to moisten them evenly. Let them cool to
room temperature, stirring them every now and then.
Preheat the oven to 400 . When the prunes have cooled completely,
puree them through a food mill or with the back of a wooden spoon rub
them through a sieve set over a bowl . Stir the walnuts i nto the puree.
-preferably in an unlined copper bowl-until they begin to froth. Add
the sugar and continue to beat until the whites form stif unwavering
peaks on the beater when it i s lifted out of the bowl . With a rubber spat
ula, mix about Y of the whites into the prune mixture, and gently but
thoroughly fold in the remaining whites, using an over-under cutting mo
tion rather than a stirring one. Spoon the flling into the pie shell and
smooth the top with the spatula.
Bake the pie i n the center of the oven for about 20 minutes, or until
the flling is frm and the top lightly browned. Cool to room temperature.
Just before serving, beat the cream until it holds soft peaks, then add the
confectioners' sugar and beat until the cream is sti f. Pipe it on top of the
pie through a pastry bag ftted with a plain or decorative tip, or spread it
on in decorative swirls with a rubber spatula, and serve.
1 37
Fresh Strawberry Pie
6 cups ( 1 ; quarts ) frm ripe
strawberries, preferably wild
strawberries
A 9-inch short-crust pastry pie shell,
baked and cooled (page 1 33)
; cup sugar
2 tablespoons cold water
j uice
1 cup heavy crea, chilled
Pick over the berries carefully, removing the stems and hulls and dis
carding any fruit that is badly bruised or shows signs of mold. Wash in a
sieve or colander under cold running water, then spread on paper towels
to drain. Pat the berries completely dry. Place half of them in the cooled
baked pie shell and set aside.
Chop the remaining berries fne and combine them with the sugar in a
2- to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan. Stirring from time to
time, bring the berries to a simmer over moderate heat. In a small bowl,
mix the cornstarch, cold water and lemon j uice together to make a smooth
paste. Then, stirring constantly, pour the paste into the berry mixture and
continue to cook for 2 or 3 minutes, until the mixture thickens enough to
hold its shape lightly in the spoon. Puree through a fne sieve set over a
bowl, pressing down hard on the berries before discarding the seeds.
Taste and add more sugar or lemon j uice if desired. Pour the puree over
the berries i n the pie shell , spreading it evenly with a rubber spatula.
Drape the pie lightly with aluminum foil or wax paper and refrigerate
for at least 2 hours.
Just before serving, whip the cream in a chilled bowl with a wire
whisk or a rotary or electric beater. When it is stif enough to stand in un
wavering peaks on the beater, scoop it over the pie and spread it
o
ut with
a spatula. Make decorative swirls in the cream with the tip of the spatula
and serve at once. Alternatively, you may serve the cream separately, per
mitting each diner to add as much as he wants to his portion.
1 38
Sour-Cherry Pie
To make one 9-inch double-crust pie
1 tablespoon unsalted butter,
softened, plus 2 tablespoons
unsalted butter, cut into V-i nch
bits
Short-crust pastry for a double-crust
pie (page 1 33)
6 cups pitted sour cherries ( from
about 3 % pounds )
Y cup quick-cooking tapioca
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoons strained fresh
lemon j uice
With a pastry brush, spread the tablespoon of softened butter over the
bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie tin. Make pastry for a double-crust pie,
divide it in half, and chill for at least one hour.
On a lightly foured surface, roll half of the dough into a rough circle
about Y inch thick and 1 2 to 1 3 inches in diameter. Drape the dough
over the rolling pin, lift it up, and unroll it slackly over the pie tin. Gently
press the dough into the bottom and sides of the tin. With a pair of scis
sors, cut of the excess dough from the edges, leaving a l -inch overhang
all around the outside rim. Refrigerate while you prepare the flling.
Combine the sour cherries, tapioca, sugar, lemon j uice and almond ex
tract in a large bowl, and toss together gently but thoroughly. Let the mix
ture rest uncovered and at room temperature for about 1 0 minutes. Then
spoon the contents of the bowl into the unbaked pie shell and, with a rub
ber spatula, spread out the cherries as evenly as possible. Dot the top of
the flling with the butter bits.
Preheat the oven to 450 . For the upper crust, roll the remaining half
of the dough into a circle about Y inch thick and 1 2 to 1 3 inches in
diameter. With a pastry brush dipped in cold water, lightly moisten the
outside edge of the pastry shell. Drape the dough over the rolling pin, lift
it up and unroll it over the pie. Trim of the excess pastry from around the
rim with scissors, then crimp the top and bottom pastry together frmly
with your fngertips or press them with the tines of a fork. Cut a l -inch
hole in the center of the top of the pie. Bake in the center of the oven for
1 0 minutes, then lower the heat to 3 5 0 and bake another 40 to 45 min
utes, or until the top is golden brown.
1 39
Blackberry Pie
To make one 9-inch latticework pie
Short-crust pastry for a 9-inch
lattice-topped pie (page 1 33)
1 tablespoon butter, chilled and
ct into -inch bits
6 cups fresh blackberries
cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons water
j uice
Prepare the pastry for a double-crust pie, wrap it in wax paper and chill
it for at least 30 minutes. With a sharp knife, cut the dough in half, wrap
one half in wax paper again and refrigerate until you are ready to use it.
With a pastry brush, spread the tablespoon of softened butter over the
bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie tin. Roll the frst half of the dough into
a circle about Y inch thick and 1 3 to 1 4 inches in diameter. Fit it into
the pan and cut of the excess dough, following the directions on page
1 3 3 . Refrigerate the pastry shell while you prepare the flling.
In a sieve or colander wash the blackberries under cold running water,
removing the stems and discarding any fruit that is badly blemished.
Spread the berries on paper towels and pat them completely dry.
In a deep bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the 2 tablespoons of cold
water. Add the berries and the lemon j uice and with a rubber spatula toss
the berries lightly about to coat them thoroughly. Pour the contents of
the bowl into the pastry shell, spread the berries out evenly and dot the
top with the bits of butter.
Preheat the oven to 450 . Roll out the other half of refrigerated pastry
on a lightly foured surface, lifting and turning it after each rolling to
make a rough rectangle about 1 2 inches long, 9 inches wide and Y inch
thick. With a plain or futed pastry wheel, or a small, sharp knife, cut the
dough lengthwise into 1 8 strips, each Y inch wide.
pie. Arrange four strips on each side of it, laying them all parallel and
spacing them about Y inch apart. Turn the pie and, in similar fashion, ar
range nine more strips at right angles ( or diagonally ) to the frst series.
With a pastry brush dipped in cold water, lightly moisten the ends of the
strips at the point where they meet the bottom pastry shell. Trim the ex
cess of the strips and crimp them frmly in place with your fngers or the
tines of a fork.
Bake the pie in the center of the oven for 1 5 minutes, then reduce the
heat to 3 5 0 o and bake 2 5 to 3 0 minutes longer, or until golden brown.
140
Raspberry Pie
To make one 9- inch pie
GRAHAM-CRACKER CRUST
1 Y cups fresh crumbs made from
graham crackers pulverized in a
blender or wrapped in wax paper
and fnely crushed with a rolling
pin
Y cup walnuts, pulverized in a
blender or with a nut grinder or
mortar and pestle
1 tablespoon sugar
4 tablespoons butter, softened and
ct i nto Y-inch bits
Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 . Combine the graham-cracker crumbs, walnuts,
sugar and cinnamon in a deep bowl and mix well . Add the butter bits
and, with your fngers, rub the crumb mixture and fat until they resemble
moist coarse meal . Press the mixture smoothly and evenly into the bottom
and against the sides of a 9-inch pie pan. Then bake in the middle of the
oven for 8 to 1 0 minutes, or until the crust is frm to the touch and del
icately browned. Remove the pan from the oven and let the crust cool to
room temperature.
RASPBERRY FILLING
1 envelope unfavored gelatin
cup cold water
2Y cups fresh raspberries, or
substitute 2 ten-ounce packages
frozen raspberries, thoroughly
defrosted and drained
6 ounces cream cheese, softened
j uice
% cup heavy crea, chilled
Meanwhile, prepare the raspberry flling in the following fashion :
Sprinkle the gelatin into a heatproof measuring cup or small bowl con
taining the cup cold water. When the gelatin has softened for 2 or 3
minutes, set the cup in a small pan of simmering water and stir over low
heat until the gelatin dissolves completely. Remove the pan from the heat
but leave the cup in the water to keep the gelatin fuid.
With the back of a large spoon, puree the raspberries through a fne
sieve into a small mixing bowl . Stir in the vanilla extract and set aside. In
a deep bowl, cream the cream cheese and confectioners' sugar together,
beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of
a spoon until they are light and fufy.
Add the raspberry puree to the cream-cheese mixture and beat them vig
orously together with a rotary or electric beater. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the
lemon j uice, and the gelatin. Pour in % cup of cream and beat vigor
ously until the mixture is smooth and no trace of the cream remains.
Taste and add more lemon j uice if desired. Pour the flling into the
cooled crust, spreading it and smoothing the top with the spatula. Cover
loosely with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or
until the flling is frm to the touch.
CREAM TOPPING
1 cp heavy cream, chilled
1 tablespoon sugar
cp whole fresh raspberries, or
substitute defrosted drained
frozen raspberries, for garnish
( optional )
Just before serving, prepare the to
p
ping. Whip 1 cup of heavy cream
in a chilled bowl until it forms soft peaks. Sprinkle in the tablespoon of
sugar and continue to beat until the cream is stif enough to stand in un
wavering peaks on the beater. Spread the whipped cream evenly over the
pie, creating decorative swirls with the tip of the knife or spatula. If you
like, arrange whole fresh or defrosted frozen raspberries on top.
Chop Suey Dessert Sauce
% cup sugar
1 cups water
teaspoon red food coloring
cup coarsely chopped pitted
dates
cup coarsely chopped dried fgs
cup coarsely chopped walnuts
Combine the sugar and water in a 1 - to 2- quart enameled or stainless
steel saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar
dissolves. Cook briskly, uncovered, until the syrup reaches a temperature
of 2 20 on a candy thermometer. Stir in the food coloring.
Combine the dates, fgs and walnuts in a bowl, pour in the hot syru
p
,
and stir until all the pieces are evenly moistened. Spoon the sauce into a
j ar equipped with a tight-ftting lid. Cover and store at room temperature.
The sauce will keep up to 3 weeks. Serve it with ice cream.
1 42
cie Index
NOTE : Size, weight and material are specifed for
pans in the recipes because they afect cooking re
sul ts. A pan should be j ust large enough to hold
i ts contents comfortably. Heavy pans heat slowly
and cook food at a constant rate. Aluminum and
cast iron conduct heat well but may di scolor foods
containing egg yolks, wine, vinegar or l emon.
Enamelware is a fairly poor conductor of heat.
Many recipes therefore recommend stainless steel
or enameled cast iron, which do not have these
faul ts.
Soups and Appetizers
Bean chowder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Cold lentil soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Corn and clam chowder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Dungeness crabmeat bisque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Marinated fddlehead ferns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Marinated mushrooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Marinated oysters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Mushroom-and-potato soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Shad-roe pate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Spinach soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Salads
Bl ue-cheese salad dressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1
Great Northern bean salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 5
Green bean salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2
King crab salad ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 4
Lentil salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0
Mayonnai se . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1
Oriental salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2
Potato salad with bacon bits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3
Shellfsh
Corn and clam soufe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8
Deviled Dungeness crab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6
Deviled oysters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Hot crab sandwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7
Mignonette sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Oysters meuniere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Oyster pan roast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Razor-clam cakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Remoulade sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Spicy tomato sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Fish
Baked stufed salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Barbecued lingcod wi t h Cheddar . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Broiled walleyed pi ke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Cucumber and sour-cream sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 5
Deep-fried halibut cheeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Deep-fried smelts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Fried trout with bacon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Halibut steaks stufed wi th tomato sauce . . . . . . 23
Laksloda ( salmon and potato casserol e) . . . . . . . 35
Lingcod with garlic and tomatoes . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1
Molded salmon with cucumber sauce . . . . . . . . 3 6
Pan-fried trout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 8
Pickled salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Rockfsh Espaiol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Salmon poached in cider . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Seafood stew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Shad-roe croquettes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Shrimp-stufed baked pike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Smoked sablefsh nuggets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Trout in aspic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Poultry and Game Birds
Broiled chicken with mushroom sauce . . . . . . . . 44
Chicken and caraway seeds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
1 43
Frosted chicken breasts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 5 Oatmeal pancakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 1
Grouse with brandied orange stufng . . . . . . . . 5 2 Potato rolls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Individual turkey hash ovals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Shrove Tuesday buns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Pheasant and apples with sour-cream sauce . . . . 47 Sourdough pancakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Pheasant pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Sourdough roll s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Roast quail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3 Sourdough starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Wild-rice-stufed quail wi t h cream-and-morel Sourdough white bread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Spaetzle ( tiny dumpl ings with
Meat
fried croutons ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Swedish cherry twist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Braised lamb shoulder with green beans . . . . . . 63
Bufalo roast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Pickles and Preserves
Cold spiced beef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Apri cot and pineapple j am . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 2
Elk meatballs in sour cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Carrot pickles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 07
Meat loaf with bacon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Corn relish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Oxtail stew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Cranberry ketchup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 0
Pork sausages in sour cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 How t o prepare and seal canning j ars . . . . . . . . 1 06
Potato sausage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Pear honey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 3
Roast leg of venison . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Pickled onions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 09
Smothered reindeer steaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Pickled prunes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Spareribs and sauerkraut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Plum ketchup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 1
Stewed rabbit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Raspberry vinegar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Stufed spareribs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 8 Rhubarb-ginger j am . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 2
Swedish meatballs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Spiced plums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 0
Swedish pot roast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Tomato marmalade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Swiss steak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Veal steaks with apple rings in cream . . . . . . . . 62
Desserts
Veal stew with dumplings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Bl ackberry pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Venison mincemeat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 1 Blueberry roll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 7
Venison sauerbraten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Chop suey dessert sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Vegetables
Custard angel cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 2
Dreams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 6
Baked mushroom caps with fsh stufng . . . . . . 79 Filbert applesauce cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 24
Baked stufed acorn squash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Fi lbert macaroons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Basque potatoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Fresh strawberry pi e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 8
Country baked beans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Ginger cookies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 19
Green-tomato pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Huckleberry cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 29
Mashed turnips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . : . . . . . 74 Krumkaker ( pastry cones fl led with
Mushroom croquettes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 candied whipped cream) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 8
Spinach ring with cheese sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Marble spice cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 26
Stufed onions . . . . . : . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Professor' s cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 5
Tomato-cheese pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Prune pi e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 37
Wild rice with mushrooms and almonds . . . . . . 86 Raspberry pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Yellow rice with cold fruit Rhubarb custard pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 5
and curry sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Rhubarb ring with strawberries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 5
Bread and Pancakes
Royal rhubarb cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 3
Rye cookies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 1
Apple mufns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 01 Short-crust pastry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 3
Black walnut angel bread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 05 Sour-cherry pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 9
Blueberry cofee ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Spritz cookies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 20
Cheddar pennies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Strawberry frango . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 4
Cheese bread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Vienna sticks . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 2
Cinnamon wreath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 03 Vfnarterta ( Vienna torte) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 0
Cream biscuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Vinegar pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 36
Fried cornmeal squares . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Whipped-cream cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 28
Lefse ( fat potato breads ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Wined pears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 6
Illustrations b y Gloria duBouchet
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. Season the oxtails with the salt and pepper,

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