Kayaking Log Book

Session One Parts of the kayak

Kayak Rudders: Found on North American Style Sea & Day Touring Kayaks, provides paddlers the ability to control direction (steer) using their feet via a rudder system with cables attached to sliding or pivoting foot peddles Kayak Retractable Skeg: (not shown) Found on British or Greenland Style Sea Kayaks, the skeg is deployed from the hull and can be lowered up, down or anywhere in between using a hand controlled lever or dial for use as a tracking aid Kayak Drop Skeg: (not shown) Found on some multi-purpose Day Touring & Recreational Kayaks as a tracking aid, it can only be dropped completely down or raised out of the water completely by an external deck cord Kayak Rudder Support: A bracket on the stern deck, which the rudder sits in when not engaged, and provides the paddler with solid bracing as it prevents the foot peddles from moving. A rudder support also provides a safe lock down position when transporting a kayak Rudder Cord: Enables the paddler to easily raise or lower their rudder system by hand as desired, using an internal or external cord Drain Plug: Some Day & Recreational kayaks provide a drain plug to conveniently relieve water Kayak Backband: Sea Kayaks tend to have a multi-adjustable low-slung backband while recreational models tend to have a higher backed seat, which, may or may not be adjustable Cockpit: The designated area the paddler sits in to best control their kayak. Sea Kayaks tend to have a small opening allowing better bracing and control while, Recreational Kayaks have larger openings for easy entry & exit Kayak Seats: Most modern kayaks have comfortable, multi-adjustable seats although some Recreational & Sit-on-Top Kayaks simply use a one piece molded sitting area

Bungee shock Cords (bow): Perfect to store a map, water bottle or attach a low-slung deck bag to house small pack items in an easily accessible area Bungee Cords (stern): Most Sea Kayaks provide a bungee system in the shape of an X providing paddlers the ability to perform self-rescues. Kayak Footbraces: North American Style Kayaks (rudders) use a sliding or pivoting footbrace system, which controls the rudder. British Style Kayaks (skegs) provide a fixed foot-peddle system for solid bracing Kayak Hatches & Storage Compartments: North American Style Kayaks commonly use composite hatch covers with neoprene liners or rubber gaskets while, British Style Kayaks tend to use oval or rounded rubber hatch covers providing convenient virtual watertight storage and safety through buoyant airtight chambers Kayak Bulkheads: (not shown) A composite wall in fibreglass & Kevlar kayaks or a foam wall in polyethylene kayaks to separate the kayaks storage area from the boats cockpit area and to limit water access Bow: Refers to the kayaks front end Stern: Refers to the kayaks back end Grab Handles: Secure handholds to move a kayak Kayak Cockpit Combing or Rim: Refers to the collar around the boats cockpit for which a spray skirt can easily be attached to keep the cockpit area dry Cleat: Most North American Style Kayaks offer a starboard side cleat to lock the rudder in a down position for safe transport Hip Pads: Help eliminate sideways movement for paddlers which, in turn provides them with more refined kayak control Thigh Braces: Enable paddlers to lock the inside of their knees under the forward cockpit area which, in turn allows them to "become one" with their kayak for better boat control through body weight transfer Perimeter Lifelines: Enhance paddler safety as bow & stern lifelines best enable paddlers the ability to grab the kayak from an in water position

Emptying the kayak

When emptying the kayak you should preferably have another person to help, by lifting the kayak, turning it over, lift the kayak in a diagonal position which will drain the water, followed by repeating the same diagonal position but the other way, then turn the kayak over to its original position ready for the kayaker to get back in the drained kayak.

Getting into the kayak 1. Place the Kayak in the water near the bank or shore. The water should be
deep enough that the boat stays afloat after you get in. Hold the Cockpit to keep it from drifting away from the bank.

2. A Kayak is unstable, especially if you are not in it. Keep it steady as you get in
by placing one end of the Kayaking Paddle across the boat, just behind the Cockpit, while the other blade rests on the bank or shore. Do not to let go of the Cockpit as you do this.

3. While holding the back of the Cockpit Coaming and the Paddle, put your leg
(the one near the boat) into the Cockpit. Maintain your balance and keep your weight low. Move forward and tuck the other leg beside the first.

4. Straighten your legs and sit comfortably. Release your hold of the Cockpit
Coaming and move the Kayak Paddle in front of you. Pull on your Spray Skirt and you are good to go.

Session Two Moving the kayak with hands you use your hands to steer yourself around the
pool.

Capsizing (No spraydeck- include information on capsize procedures)

We just capsized keep your body forward and use your house to pull yourself out.

Session Three Parts of the paddle Parts

There are three main parts to a kayak paddle: the grip, shaft and blade. The grips are usually rubberized and come in a variety of styles, allowing the paddler to choose the most comfortable for their personal use. The size of the shaft is determined by your height; if you are taller or shorter than average a specialized shaft might have to be used. The blade comes in a variety of shapes and styles, ranging from small to large as well as differing in shape.

Moving forwards - The forward stroke is the first kayak stroke that paddler's
should learn. While most people who pick up a kayak paddle assume they are doing

the forward stroke correctly, they most likely are not. That is because, unless they take a lesson, beginning kayakers always move the paddle with their arms rather than by rotating their torso. The basis for all other kayak strokes is found in ones ability to be able to correctly do the kayaking forward stroke.

Moving backwards - Some of you might be thinking why a person would want to
learn how to kayak backwards. Well, it does happen in tight quarters or in finding the quickest method of getting to a flipped kayaker or simply when one has overshot their target that being able to kayak backwards is a necessary manuever to know.

Session Four Capsizing (Using a spray deck) When you capsize with the spray deck on you
pall the handle and you will fall out the Kayak.

Methods of turning (Sweep stroke and low brace turn)

The same principles apply for the Reverse Sweep Stroke as for the Forward Sweep Stroke. With your lower (sweeping) arm extended, rotate your body and place your paddle in the water towards the rear of the kayak Immerse the blade so that it is just covered Using the back of the blade, sweep the paddle forward in a wide arc towards the bow of the boat Ensure your sweeping arm is flexed slightly, your paddle remains low and that you rotate your body during the stroke Practise this stroke several times on both sides of your kayak as with the Forward Sweep, to ensure proficiency. The Low Brace Turn is a wide turning stroke, which requires the boat to have forward momentum to be effective. It is particularly useful for eddy turns in white water. Accelerate the boat forward On the turning side, place the paddle blade almost flat on the water surface just behind your hips and out from the boat. Ensure that the leading edge of the paddle blade is slightly raised, so that the water can pass beneath it. Leaning on the flat paddle blade will provide support and cause a braking effect, therefore the boat will veer to the side that the stroke has been executed Keep your elbow at approximately 90 degrees above the paddle shaft Edge your boat into the turn by lifting your knee and thigh on the opposite side to your intended direction

Methods of stopping- Put your paddle in the and push its like your doing a
backstroke.

Session Five Eskimo Rescue (also known as the T rescue)

1. Flip Over and Wet-Exit the Kayak Of course, this is the cause of needing to do the T-Rescue in the first place. For the sake of practicing this maneuver, go ahead and safely flip over in your kayak. Knowing how to get out of the kayak while upside down is a prerequisite to practicing this technique. Be sure to safely wet-exit your kayak.

2. Flip the Kayak Back Over Depending on the type of kayak, this could be difficult or it could be easy. Kayaks with secure bulkhead compartments will generally be easier to flip back over. Go to the bow of the kayak and spin the kayak to flip it right-side up. If you need help, ask the spotter, still in his or her own kayak, to aid in flipping the kayak back over. Once the kayak is right-side up it will be full of a lot of water. 3. Pass the Kayak Over to the Spotter If you are not near the person who is going to help you with this rescue begin swimming with your boat to that person. The kayaker who is upright should already be paddling over to you also. Once the kayak is being in the control of the upright kayaker, the person in the water should grab onto the bow loop of the upright kayak and stay out of the way. 4. The Kayak T-Rescue: Pull the Kayak Up Onto the Deck The rescuer at this point should pull the submerged kayak up onto their kayak deck by the bow. This might be difficult, but the idea is to get the kayak across your lap and the deck of your boat as high up as you can. This is where the name of this manoeuvre comes from, as the two kayaks will form a T. 5. Tip the Kayak Over With the submerged kayak as high up on the rescuer kayaks deck as it can be, the rescuer should then begin to tip the kayak over. If there is a lot of water still in the kayak it will be difficult to tip it completely over at first. Just begin to let the water drain out and flip it all the way over as it becomes lighter. 6. Flip the Kayak Back Upright Rock the kayak back and forth, attempting to get as much water out as you can. Then flip the kayak back upright. 7. Position the Kayak Finally, you want to position the kayak in the easiest position for the person to re-enter the boat. Bring the kayak parallel to your own kayak with the stern of the empty kayak next to the bow of your own kayak. Basically, the kayak will be facing the opposite direction from the kayak that the person helping is in.

Sculling Draw - The Sculling Draw Stroke is another technique that you can do if
you want to move sideways. This is similar to the Draw Stroke, only this time, you need to place your Kayaking Paddle blade closer to the Kayak, and push and pull the blade to move the boat sideways. It is especially useful when moving laterally in limited spaces. In this section, learn how to do the Sculling Draw Stroke:

1. With the drive face (front side) towards the Kayak, place the Paddle blade in the water, less than one foot from the boat. Make sure that the shaft is vertical and the blade is completely submerged in the water. 2. Rotate your wrists so the drive face points slightly towards the bow. 3. More your blade as far forward as you can. Keep your body in an upright position and the shaft vertical. Make sure to keep the Paddle at the same distance from the side of the Kayak. 4. Rotate your wrists in such a way that the blade is slightly facing the stern. Quickly pull the blade as far back as you comfortably can without leaning back. 5. When the blade is behind you, rotate your wrists so the drive face points slightly towards the bow. 6. Move the blade forward. You should have moved sideways at this point.

Sculling for support - Sculling for support will keep you upright if your kayak is at
rest. Even though you will probably learn several other strokes and kayaking moves that will help you to maintain your upright posture in your kayak, the more support strokes you know, the better. Another method that you can use to support your kayak is called sculling for support. Essentially what this entails is using paddle movements on the surface of the water in order to prevent your kayak from capsizing. First, you should make sure that you are using the front side of the paddle. While this might not seem too important at first, keep in mind that the reason you want to use this side of the paddle is that it will definitely give you more support while you are sculling. You should also keep in mind that sculling for support is really only effective if the kayak is not in motion - if you are having trouble with support while your kayak is moving, then there are several other moves that you should learn as well. Put the paddle flat on the surface of the water, and then try sculling for support by moving it back and forth. This will give your kayak some support and is very useful if you're in a situation with a lot of wind or high waves. You should make sure that you are holding the paddle shaft as close to the water as possible so that you don't end up slicing into the water. One thing to keep in mind is that even though it might seem like you need to scull quickly to make sure that you don't capsize, sculling for support does not require fast, uncontrolled movements. In fact, sculling for support is much more successful when it is done with slow sweeping strokes.