CONTENT

Topic Introduction 1.0 History & Evolution

1.1 Evolution of the Industry as a must accessory for men or for women 2.0 Luxury impacts buying behavior in the context of India 2.1 Consumer behavior and luxury consumption 3.0 Fragrance finishing of Textiles 3.1 Technology for Fragrance Finishing (MICROENCAPSULATION) 3.2 Applications of Fragrance Finishes in various sectors 4.0 Major Players in the Domestic Market that caters to premium handkerchief along with other merchandises 5.0 NEED GAP 6.0 Opportunities 7.0 Conclusion 8.0 REFERENCES

Page no. 2 2 6

7 7 8 8 10 12

13 15 15 16

REVIEW OF LITERATURE Dissertation Project: Design and Development of Handkerchief with special finishes in high end market.
INTRODUCTION Collective Selection: The process by which a mass of people formulate certain collective tastes reflected by the goods or services they choose, and their selection illustrate the beliefs and values of the groups social system. Only those goods most consistent with the socio-cultural environment win. Consumer researches point to a collective buying behaviour thats recently become the norm. The demand for luxury goods by shoppers at many income levels is expanded. These premium products and services were once considered out of reach by all but the very wealthy, but they are now purchased by many. Thats because marketers recognised the collective desire for premium products, or at least for those that appears to be premium, and began offering upscale everything from bottled water to in home spas. As Indian consumers continue to improve their standard of living, the accessories and finishes application textiles market is expected to grow strongly in the future. With finishing on the textile products still being niche in India, the market is growing from a very small base. Hygienically treated fabrics and fabrics with different finishes and products are also expected to grow well, as manufacturers are introducing more new and improved product ideas in the market targeting both rural and urban consumers.

1.0 History & Evolution The handkerchief is the indispensable part of a stylish wardrobe. To the discerning lady, gentlemen or child, a splash of color and style is classy, fashionable and functional. The handkerchief is truly a timeless accessory. It is rumoured that Frenchwomen Marie Antoinette (1755-1793) was frustrated that handkerchief were so many shapes: round, oval, rectangular and so. Her husband King Louis XVI of France (1754-1793), made it a law that handkerchiefs must be square, and they remained the square ever since.2 A HANDKERCHIEF (also called hanky) is a form of a kerchief, typically a hemmed square of thin fabric that can be carried in the pocket or purse, and which is intended for personal hygiene purposes such as wiping one's hands or face, or blowing one's nose. A handkerchief is also sometimes used as a purely decorative accessory in a suit pocket. A handkerchief was already in the 50s one of the most popular accessories of the then mostly in male society. It lifted the individual out from the crowd and was a mark
2

of special confidence and wealth, but this was only for the period. Slowly and gradually it got deep rooted in the manners of the then prevailing society and soon became a very common accessory among consumers.1 Synonyms: babushka, do-rag, bandanna, kerchief, madras, mantilla. Historically, once a style statement of the elite class, handkerchief is now the used among all classes of the society, it is the most sought apparel accessory. The pocket handkerchief is in fact only 400 years old. It was the idea of a Venetian lady to cut a square out of pure flax and then decorate it with lace. She showed it to the people in a public garden, where the delicate handkerchief excited the general onlookers. From Italy, the handkerchief soon crossed the Alps and spread through France where it was found to be a great success with the Lords and Ladies in the court of Henry II. The handkerchief of this period was made with the most expensive fabrics, adorned with embroidery and was object of desire and of great luxury.

Figure.1.1 Until 18th century, the handkerchief came in many forms. Now 150 years later the handkerchiefs are being replaced by tissue ones. Some Historical handkerchief with the advent of evolution of designs:

Figure.1.2 : Italian Handkerchief with White work and Needle Lace, Late 16th Century.

Figure 1.3: Two Italian Handkerchiefs, 16th - 17th Centuries

4

Figure 1.4: Handkerchief with Sweet Bag, Late 16th Century

Figure 1.5: Handkerchief of the Elizabethan Period With it such a vast use, among middle class and shift of usage pattern to fragranced tissues of the upper class, this facts talks about the feasibility of the shift in the

handkerchief pattern from conventional style to the much in demand now, the finishes. The point which convinced to change the format of the handkerchief manufacturing is its modern usage, as the modern usage states that handkerchief is occasionally considered old-fashioned or unhygienic, or both, in some parts of the world, mainly due to the popularization of disposable paper handkerchiefs and the fact that they are stored in a pocket or a purse after being used.

1.1 Evolution of the Industry as a must accessory for men or for women One fashion accessory that fits all budgets and styles are men's handkerchiefs. Although some people may think that handkerchiefs are an outdated item or are only decorative pieces for suits, fashionable men know that sporting them in suit pockets or simply having one on their person is a smart move. The most functional use for them is to wipe one's hands or blow your nose into it. The latter use can be seen as unhygienic, especially if it needs to be used more than once. Some men prefer to carry tissues for this reason. However, handkerchiefs are often sported in a purely decorative capacity and aren't expected to be functional at all. In Indian market, specialty shops also carry them with initial monograms on them; most men choose the monogram that's the first letter of their last name. Because this is such an inexpensive accessory, it's easy even for the budget-conscious to have a good supply of men's handkerchiefs at hand. Ladies handkerchief is very different than that of gents handkerchief as ladies handkerchief has design patterns, colour combinations and generally come in light colours like pink, yellow, purple, blue, skin etc. Women also used neck handkerchiefs, or kerchiefs, as fashion accessories. Often beautifully embroidered in decorative patterns or made from expensive sheer materials, neck handkerchiefs were large squares or triangles worn around the shoulders to fill in the low necklines of gowns. Handkerchiefs can be gifted on occasion like kitty parties where most of the women meet and chat and relax a bit. Also handkerchiefs can be gifted on the auspicious occasion where handkerchiefs are presented only to ladies. In the past, our grandparents used handkerchiefs, or hankies, instead of disposable paper products. They ranged from plain to pretty squares of cloth were all reusable. In addition to wet wipes, single-use cleaning pads, throwaway coffee cups, and other unnecessary uses of paper, paper towels and tissues are piling up in the landfills. Not to mention sacrificing trees to produce tissues for the nose and paper towels for wiping up the messes.
6

As the conservation and sustainable issues makes the hanky more appropriate and productive. Handkerchief provides gentle protection, and came clean to serve again and again.

2.0 Luxury impacts buying behavior in the context of India Luxury has traditionally been defined in terms of rarity, exclusivity and uniqueness, it is being quintessentially challenged by overexposure and accessibility to brands and products that were once considered a privilege (Nia and Zaichkowsky 2000). India has always had wealthy elites such as the maharajas, upper class and royalty that consume luxury products throughout its consumption history. The relatively recent economic rise of the middle class with an increase in disposable income is leading to consumption of luxury en mass. The findings from the journals reveal that psychological and cultural factors in Indian society play a major part in shaping luxury consumption.4 Indian consumers share cultural characteristics of lavish consumption of luxury and display of wealth in social functions. Luxury reflects conspicuous consumption and status, and signals wealth for individuals, and conveys social identity and status in Indian society. In recent years, the Indian middle class joined the luxury consumption like their counterparts in the west and it can be argued that the same process of luxury consumption would also occur in India. Although many global luxury companies recognise the high potential of future growth in Asia, marketers need to have insights about the new consumer they target. The role of new developing markets, such as Russia, China and India, in luxury consumption has been growing dramatically since 2001. India has been considered as a promising territory for the future and a long-term player. For example, a survey conducted by AT Kearney estimates that the Indian luxury market is worth $377 million and is likely to grow at an annual rate of 28% in the next three years (Atwal and Khan 2008). 2.1 Consumer behaviour and luxury consumption: Consumer behaviour can affect luxury consumption such as an individuals identity, consumption habit and symbols associated with luxury possession. The emerging Indian economy and its large population are alluring traits of the potential of Indian luxury markets. India has been identified as the next major luxury market after China with many foreign brands starting to establish their presence.

The spread of luxury brands to developing countries or mass consumption is often associated with mass and prestige (masstige) brands emerged in the West rather than very expensive and exclusive brands. As India is undergoing major infrastructural development, it would be a logical starting point to examine luxury consumption with reference to masstige brands for the mass market or display of luxury consumption. Indian consumers are at the show-off stage of luxury consumption that reflects bigname foreign brands or masstige brands. They conceptualise possession of luxury brands as symbols of modernity and as progression of economic and social development.

3.0 Fragrance finishing of Textiles Innovations resulting from technological advancements represent the best strategy for success in the increasingly competitive textile industry. The fabric production rate is very tremendous and the market has limited scope which can be multiplied by value added finishing to textiles like fragrance finish which counts more value in the current scenario of market. The maintenance and improvement of current properties and the creation of new material properties are the most important reasons for the fictionalization of textiles. Recently, fragrances have become available that can be readily added on the textiles and after finishing and fixation; they emit a pleasant fragrance which is sometimes used as a medicine renowned with the term of Aroma-chology. Gone are the days when quality product was the only criterion to eye a product by a consumer. Earlier were the times when sheer competitiveness in the domestic market was very confined. But, during some past years with the emergence of globalization, competitive atmosphere and quality consciousness, has reached a new mark. The role of the textile finisher has become increasingly demanding, and now requires a careful balance between the compatibility of different finishing products and treatments and the application processes used to provide textiles with desirable properties. Fragrance finishing of textiles is the process where we enhance the value of the product by adding some incentives to it. The world market place is continuously changing and so is demand of people changing .Every person desires for some change .i.e. something new & unique. 3.1 Technology for Fragrance Finishing (MICROENCAPSULATION) Microencapsulation is a natural phenomenon and the examples of ideal microcapsules are found in the nature i.e., spores, seeds, eggs and pollen etc. It involves depositing microcapsules onto a yarn or fabric containing a slow-release active agent. For these active agents to make a mark on the fabric,
8

certain conditions are to be met (again depending upon the nature and type of end usage). Some active agents can be activated by washing the fabric, heating it a little above room conditions and by repeated usage of the fabric.8

Figure 2.1: Process of Binding fragrance into the yarns of the fabric

Figure 2.2: Microcapsule

MECHANISIM OF RELEASING

Releasing of the content from the capsules is one of the interesting aspects of the wall materials. It is dependent directly on the type of wall material used, the number of layer present around the core and the concentration of the wall material.

Fragrances and Human Emotions

3.2 Applications of Fragrance Finishes in various sectors Aromatherapy Textiles

The uses of aromatherapy textile are diverse. Interior textiles such as sheets, quiltcovers, curtains, carpets and bed-gowns are suitable for the attachment of lavender, camomile, citrus or cinnamon microcapsules. It is convenient for dermatitis sufferers to be cured with the aid of underwear containing killing gem fabric. Perfumed toys make it easier for children to get closer to nature. Home Textiles

In other areas, household textiles such as curtains, sofas, cushions, sheets, as well as apparel items such as gloves, socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes. The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles.

10

Sports Wear As the second skin of the human body, all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds, and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them. The type of the fragrance necessary for sportswear may be orange, lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period. Apparel The scents of lavender, rose, citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics, which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs, as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature. Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels, leisure wear, daily wears, party wears etc. The creation of value added fabrics not only represents an academic advance in the textile industry, but will also bring convenience to our lives. The fragrance finished textiles are very new in the current market and they have gained the much more importance in day to day life. The area of accessories market is still untapped by this technology, so the incorporation of this technology with the certain form of designer elements in the handkerchief is the concept of the entrepreneurial business model. The close cooperation is needed by vertical integrated Textile mills and partners from industry. Therefore, it proves that in the present condition if one has to sustain himself to immense competition one has to come up with new techniques.

11

4.0 Major Players in the Domestic Market that caters to premium handkerchief along with other merchandises 4.1 The Raymonds: The Raymond Group was incorporated in 1925 and within a span of a few years, transformed from being an Indian textile major to a global corporation consisting of several companies in different business under different labels and brands. Park Avenue: Raymonds company brand, for over 25 years in the apparel market. Indias leading Brand, Park Avenue is known for dressing up the corporate world. The continuous pursuit of meaningful change has evolved Park Avenue into an innovation brand offering leading news styles and accessories to the corporate world. A brand with fresh ideas which are in sync with a changing consumer, who is thinking younger and engaging products Raymonds Handkerchief prices in the market are: Rs. 390,300,200 and 180. 4.2 Zodiac: Zodiac Clothing Company Limited has embarked on a slew of marketing initiatives to promote its new product ranges. Zodiac caters into men shirting and formals wear, they also incorporate other products like neck ties, cufflinks, cravats and handkerchief. As part of the marketing strategy, the company is now planning to expand its multi-brand outlets in secondary markets in B grade cities. Zodiac alphabetical handkerchief price range varies from- Rs. 229-Rs. 249. 4.3 Van Heusen: Van Heusen is a premium lifestyle brand for men, women and youth. The brand embodies fashion for the corporate and reflects the current expression of elegance in today's context. Van Heusen believes that the design drivers for the brand are fashion and sophistication. The brand covers all aspects of an individual's clothing needs, be it corporate wear, casual wear, party wear or ceremonial wear, making it a complete lifestyle brand in the truest sense. The core audience is professionals and corporate executives - men and women who are successful, focused, articulate, well-travelled, and confident and have a sense of style about them. Price range of package of 3 handkerchiefs is Rs. 209

12

5.0 NEED GAP

Design Working Area The study done on Indian apparel markets has clear signs of the manufacturing of the unconventional textiles which have aroma finish or other kind of finishes but the products made out of these have very low or nil production in case of handkerchiefs. The buyer still uses the perfume spray for handkerchief which is very harmful for the health, because the chemicals inhaled causes irritation or reactions in respiratory system as well as in many cases allergic reactions and other skin diseases have been identified. Moreover these fragrances never sustain for a longer period of time as well as it is not viable. The handkerchief production is sparsely located in many metro cities of India and as such no high end or prominent brand is available in this sector, reason being stake of small scale producers who have low cost product and high market penetration. There are handkerchiefs available in the market (high end market) with premium ranges in terms of quality, colours and prints etc.

S.no. Brand

Form (dimension s) Square(50c mwidthx 50 cm height)

Color/prints (description)

Male Price /Female range

2551

Product

1.

Burberry

Black Trimming Male on a classic sporty timeless piece. Genuine licensed design from Japan Perfect as a handkerchief and as an accessory. Female 100% cotton The Classic Burberry London design with lacey edges for a feminine touch.

2.

Burberry London Classic Lacy edge

Square(50c mwidthx 50 cm height)

1276

13

3.

Anna Sui

Square 25.5 cm width x 25.5 cm height

Beautiful Anna Female Sui Handkerchief in pink and black Features Anna Sui embroidered signature

810

4.

Herme`s

Square (17x17)

Hermes Paris Male royal blue handkerchief. 100% cotton

6633

5.

Vivienne Westwood

Square(25 cm width x 25 cm height)

Male Vivienne Westwood Orb and Handkerchief in Female Vibrant. 4 quadrants featuring Vivienne Westwood Signature Symbols of Skill, Orb and Rabbit. 100% cotton towel handkerchief

811

With the introduction of fragrance finish product the market can be captured and such product can be made as the style statement for the upper/elite class and uppermedium class which have usage of above 60% of the total use.

14

6.0 Opportunities Modern retail formats support growth Modern retail formats such as supermarkets/hypermarkets, department stores and health and beauty retailers helped to increase the sales of tissue and hygiene products. International and domestic players alike benefitted from the developments in modern retailing in India. Accessories including socks and handkerchief with finishing on them continue to be impulse purchases in India, and their higher price point means that only more affluent consumers can afford these products. 7.0 Conclusion Even niche hygiene products such as wipes and finished fabrics have been seeing an increase in sales due to the expansion of modern retailing in India.

15

8.0

REFERENCES:

1. Book : The way of Buying, Authors: Rath bay; Petrizzi gill 2. Jorg.Christian,http://asbestoslitigation.typepad.com/newyork/2010/04/trendsin-the-handkerchief---industry.html 3. http://www.history.org/history/museums/clothingexhibit/museum_accessories. cfm?section=handkerchiefs 4. http://www.lilinspirations.com/index.php?l=page_view&p=about_us 5. JOURNAL OF CUSTOMER BEHAVIOUR, 2010, Vol. 9, No. 1, pp. 55-75 , ISSN1475-3928 print /ISSN1477-6421 online Westburn Publishers Ltd. 6. http://artofmanliness.com/2009/03/26/every-man-should-carry-a-handkerchief 7. http://www.history.org/history/museums/clothingexhibit/museum_accessories. cfm?section=handkerchiefs 8. http://corporategifts.easy2source.com 9. Reference: Encapsulation of Fragrances and Flavours: a Way to Control Odour and Aroma in Consumer Products by Jeroen J.G. van Soest (The Netherlands) 10. http:// www.resil.com 11. http:// www.celessence.com 12. Mens and womens fashion accessories in the U.S.: Bags, Belts, Gloves, Hats, Scarves, Tie and Handkerchief. http://www.slideshare.net/ReportLinker/mens-and-womens-fashionaccessories-in-the-us-bags-belts-gloves-hats-scarves-ties-and-handkerchiefs 13. A Growth prospects of the cotton handloom industry in India in 21st century Dastkar Andhra, the founder Uzarramma.http://www.scribd.com/doc/18382306/real-madras-handkerchiefsthe-forgotten-saga-of-RMHKFull-Paper-on-RMHK. 14. http://www.endclothing.co.uk/brands/nigel-cabourn-madras-handkerchief.html http://www.theinternationalman.com/accessories/handkerchiefs.asp

16