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CLASSIFICATION AND STYLE

As an apparel buyer for J & L retail store, it has become the buying teams responsibility for developing a new private label line of mens denim for spring/summer 2012 retail selling season.

HANG TAG MAJOR TRENDS

Indigo-on-indigo dyeing and finishing creates new surface interest and deep, vibrant casts. Oversaturated, over dyed and double-dipped indigos / Two-tone blue shades / Indigo warp and weft yarns / Glossy indigo resins are scraped back to reveal blooming indigo beneath / Laundered, multi-tonal blue products. Lightweights continue to trend for fashion-forward denim items. Rustic weaves have bucolic character.

COMPARABLE PRODUCTS
The laid-back vintage attitude of the distressed wash is offered in moderate to extreme finishes as well as a wide range of retail prices. Light grinding is perfect for our customers who are desperately missing their old worn-out favorites, while a grunge look is achieved with blown-out holes, cutting, and ripping which is currently a mens denim trend.
y y y y y

Barneys, AG Adriano Goldschmied. $265.00 Oki-Ni.com, Evisu Private Stock. $742.37 LN-CC, Levi's Vintage $562.90 PRPS Barracuda jeans by TRAFFIC MEN. $570.00 Paleari, by D&G. $243.83

ADAPTION AND CHANGES

Stonewashing is time consuming and expensive, which is reflected in the cost of garments made from these fabrics. As a result, consumers will pay more for distressed jeans than similar jeans made from traditional denim fabric. Some manufacturers estimate that chemical treatments add

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$11 to the cost of a pair of jeans, while stonewashing adds an additional $3. purchasing cheaper waist jeans, tight jeans, or extend jeans, purchase jeans which will cause you to feel great as well as self-confident. After all it's the mental attitude and confidence that actually can make or perhaps destroy someone's appearance. Like a last reminder, an excellent pair of jeans can do wonders for one's self-belief.

FABRIC AND PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS

True blue jeans are made out of 100 percent cotton, including the threads. Polyester blends are available; however, the over-whelming majority of jeans sold are 100 percent cotton. The most common dye used is synthetic indigo. The belt loops, waistband, back panel, pockets, and leggings of a pair of blue jeans are all made of indigo-dyed denim. Other features of blue jeans include the zipper, buttons, rivets, and label. Rivets have been traditionally made of copper, but the zippers, snaps and buttons are usually steel. Designers' labels are often tags made out of cloth, leather, or plastic, while others are embroidered on with cotton thread.

FABRIC TYPE
Denim is made from rugged tightly woven twill in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. Lengthwise, yard is dyed with indigo or blue dye; horizontal yarns remain white. The yarns have a very strong twist to make them more durable, but this also affects the denim's color. The yarns are twisted so tightly that indigo dye usually colors only the surface, leaving the yarns center white. The blue strands become the threads that shown on the outside of your denim and the white are the ones that make the inside of your denim look white. This produces the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric. Through wear, the indigo yarn surface gives way, exposing the white yarn underneath which causes denim to fade.

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FABRIC WEIGHT
Medium Denim Weight: The standard denim weight. Levis are medium (at 12-16 oz, though the 16 oz is at the higher end of the spectrum than medium) and Id imagine that other basic brands are too. but so are the majority of your high end denims. Paige Premium is one great example; light enough so that they have a bit of flexibility, but able to hide imperfections well. This weight allows for a lot of different manipulations of the denim, so youre usually able to find the cut/color/design you want.

FABRIC CONTENT
Cotton/Stretch Blends- Most jeans are a blend of cotton and some form of stretch such as elastane, spandex, or lycra. The addition of stretch gives you a more comfortable fit and a more durable fabric. Most of these jeans will stretch out over time. Simply washing and drying them in the dryer will normally shrink them back to size. Just be careful not to dry them at too high of a temperature or you will have smaller jeans than you started with. More premium jeans like Paige Premium Denim or 7 for All Mankind have more "memory", meaning that you can wear them a few more times before they start to stretch. We prefer to buy this fabrication with a snug fit to allow for a little stretching.

FABRIC DYE PROCESS

Sandblast; A laundry process where jeans before washing are literally shot with guns of sand in order to make the jeans look as if they have been worn. While originally done only by hand, this processing has recently become automated. Single bath stone washing and tinting technique; Tinting of denim garment is usually done after the stone wash process. In this, garment has been lightly colored in order to give the final denim appearance a slight shift. This is not true over dyeing but merely gives the impression of a change in overall color of the fabric. This process consumes large quantity of water and chemical.

Page 4 of 9 To make this process economical and ecologically friendly, some novel color based enzymes have been introduced in the market. By using this new technique, tinting and stone washing effect can be achieved in a single bath, reducing the process time to achieve tinted look. No extra chemical required therefore making process more economical, less water consumption, less energy consumption, and less chance of patches or irregularity.

FABRIC FINISH

CONSTRUCTION
Sizing chart for Standard 5 Pocket Men's Jeans1:
Waist Seat Thigh Knee Bottom Front Rise Back Rise Zipper Inseam 31 102 31.6 22 19.7 29 37 6.5 30/32 32 104.5 32 22.5 20 29.5 37.5 6.5 30/32 33 107 32.5 23 20.3 30 38 6.5 30-34 34 109.5 33.5 23.5 20.6 30.5 38.5 6.5 30-34 36 114 34.5 24.5 21.2 31.5 39.5 6.5 30-34 38 119 35.5 25.5 21.8 32 40 7 30-34 40 123.5 36.5 26.5 22.4 32.5 40 7 32/34 42 128 37.5 27.5 23 33 41.5 7 32/34 Inch Cm Cm Cm Cm Cm Cm Inch Inch

Denim and fashion jeans styles Information, 2011.

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Industry Sewing Machine Operations for standard 5 pocket Jean Manufacturing2: Industry Sewing Machine Operations for Jean Production

Typical Operations Used

1a Hem change pocket 1b Set change pocket to right and left pocket facing 2 Set facings to right and left pockets 3 Close right and left pocket bags 4 Set right and left pockets to fronts 5a Overedge fly 5b Overedge fly facing 6 Run zipper into fly 7a Set right front to fly facing simultaneously inserting zipper tape 7b Set left front to fly 7c Join left front to right front, turing under left front 7d Join left front to right front,turning under right front 7e Sew down fly 8 Bar-tack pockets and fly ( 6 tacks) 9 Hem back left and right pockets 10 Set label to right back pocket 11 Crease back left and right pockets 12 Set pockets to right and left backs 13 Double bar-tack right and left pockets

American & Efird, Inc, 2009-2011

Page 6 of 9 14a Set right and left risers to jeans back 14b Join back seam 15 Close inside leg seam 16 Close 2 outside leg seams 17 Set waistband 18 Finish 2 waistband ends simultaneously 19 Make belt loops 20 Attach 7 belt loops ( 14 tacks) 21a Buttonhole end of waistband 21b Set stud to end of waistband 22 Hem legs

COSTS
Overall, it takes about 5.25 feet of denim fabric, several 328.08 feet of sewing thread, 6 rivets, 1 button, and 4 labels, and 1 zipper to make pair of jeans. On the average it takes 15 minutes and 12 steps to produce a pair of blue jeans. We will use a stonewash finish which for 150 pairs of jeans takes 330 pounds of pumice stone and 198.09 gallons of water. Our jeans will be washed for 4 hours for a nice distressed finish. This is the cost of 1 pair of J&L denim jeans: 1. Denim fabric: 4.49 feet of fabric X $ 2.50 per yard= $ 3.75. 2. Sewing thread, buttons, zipper, and rivets: $ 0.25. 3. Labels, hang tags, waist belt patch, other tags: $ 0.40 4. Labor costs: $1.50 total per jean. 5. Washing and other treatments (standard pumice stonewash): $0.60 per jeans. 3

Men s Jeans Manufacturers, 2009.

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QUALITY CONTROL PRACTICES

When consider the importance of a good quality garment, the following control practice will be implemented for the new line. Construction of our finished garment will be attractive, functional, and durable. It is important to keep a congruent standard of quality throughout the private line of mens denim being offered within our retail store, as well as providing customers with the most current trend setting garments available at a reasonable price range. The following quality standards for the denim line will be implemented and followed to ensure that our customers will be receiving a garment which will meet our quality standards. Several tests will be used for quality control for the initial cotton fiber .Cotton is a desirable natural fiber for several reasons; textiles made from cotton have good wear-ability as well as being intrinsically strong, flexible, and impermeable. All bales of cotton are inspected by the manufacturer prior to production for desired color, fiber length, and strength. Strength is measured by using the cotton's strength index. The finished denim textile is carefully inspected for defects. Each defect is rated on a government-defined scale .Denim is also tested for durability and its tendency to shrink. Samples of cloth are washed and dried several times to establish wear-ability. Finished garments are also inspected, the fitting and silhouette lines of the garment should follow lines of the body; circumference lines follow body lines at the waistline. The buttons are inspected to ensure that they and the buttonholes are of the proper size, as well as securely placed and neatly fastened, placed in relation to the button holes. When buttoned, the denim will rest flat and smooth to ensure the attractiveness of the garment. The snaps, metal buttons, and rivets are checked for durability and their ability to withstand rust. The zipper must be strong enough to with-stand pressures of heavy cloth, and their teeth durability must be checked as well by subjecting a sample zipper to a lifetime of openings and closings, as well as inspecting the zipper placket when closed is flat and smooth to ensure that there will be no puckering. The zipper must not buckle or poke. The stitching must be straight and even. Most

Page 8 of 9 importantly the zipper must slide with ease and must not catch.4 The pockets for our private denim line will be flat and smooth when on the body, as well as positioned correctly on the body for full functionality, this will create a flat and neat silhouette as well as providing the customer with the appropriate functionality. The in-seam pockets will not be visible to the eye, as well as lie flat against the body.

MERCHANDISING METHODS

Advameg, INC, 2011

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Works cited
1. Denim and Fashion Jeans. "Jeans Manufacturers." Jeans and Denim Fashion. 6 Nov. 2011. Web. 03 Mar. 2011. <http://www.denim.in.th/>. 2. "How Jeans Are Made; How They Make Fashion Jeans." Jeans Designer & Manufacturer Information. Web. 3 Mar. 2011. <www.jeansinfo.org>. 3. Advameg, INC. "How Blue Jeans Is Made - Material, Manufacture, Making, History, Used, Procedure, Steps, Product, Machine, Raw Materials, The Manufacturing Process of Blue Jeans, Byproducts/Waste." How Products Are Made. Advameg, INC, 2011. Web. 03 Mar. 2011. <http://www.madehow.com/Volume-1/Blue-Jeans.html>. 4. American & Efird, Inc. TECHNICAL BULLETIN. Denim Market. American & Efird. American & Efird, Inc, 2009-2011. Web. 04 Mar. 2011. <http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/threadselection/end-use/denim-market/>.