You are on page 1of 17

Please read entirely before using your HHO cell.

LEGAL DISCLAIMER Although it has been proven that by adding HHO gas to an internal combustion engines fuel/air mix increases in fuel economy and decreased emissions can be achieved. We make no claims to any specific amount of fuel economy gains with the use of this device. We only claim that this device when operated properly will produce Oxyhydrogen.
By using this product I understand that in no event shall march-labs or ebay, or any persons affiliated with March-labs be liable for consequential damages, nor shall liability on any claim for damages arising out of or be connected with the sale, delivery, use or misuse of any products or information purchased from march-labs through ebay.

I, my successors and assigns, agree to hold march-labs and ebay, and all persons affiliated in any way with March-labs harmless from and will indemnify seller from damages caused by the use or misuse of the products purchased, or otherwise obtained. Use includes, but is not limited to use by myself or by any person(s) obtaining said products from me in any way.

We recommend using Potassium (koh) or Sodium (Naoh) Hydroxide (lye) and distilled water with this specific cell design .
Our cell uses a very weak mixture of electrolyte and has one of lowest corrosion rates of any generator on the market. Using a pulse width modulator (PWM) will charge the cell and allow for great efficiencies and lower overall operating temps. The fill line for your electrolyte should be about the height of your water reservoir tank. As H and O bubbles form they will displace the water and cause the level to rise slightly. These cells are designed to operate on 12-14 volt DC current and can be run between 3-45 amps. The amount of gas produced is a direct correlation of the amount of current and electrolyte temperature. The concentration of your electrolyte determines the cells operating amps. For example 4 teaspoons of KOH or NAOH per gallon of distilled water will draw approximately 25 amps, as your cell operates resistance will cause the electrolyte to heat up. As this happens the resistance will drop and current flow will generally increase, ending up with 30-35 amps. It is difficult to give exact figures as water temperature and electrolyte quality are also variables. If you want to raise or lower the amp draw and gas production simple increase or decrease the amount of electrolyte you add to the water.
When your cell reaches 170F (about 40F hotter than a cup of coffee) the amount of nucleation points will increase exponentially. A warmer temperature is far more efficient and is a normal function of electrolysis.

It is best to run your cell at lower currents and have multiple cells to achieve a higher gas volume. , driving your cell too hard will decrease the life expectancy by causing elevated temperatures and electrode wear.

25-30 amps are an optimum operating range. 45 amps is the max current rating for our 12V cells. The relatively low cost of these cells allows them to be considered a consumable product. If you drive them hard for higher gas production the life expectancy will shorten but the fuel savings can greatly outweigh the replacement costs of new cells.

You will want to add only water to your cell as you refill it. Your electrolyte will stay concentrated in the solution and adding more electrolyte solution would double the concentration.

INSTALLATION
Installing your cells is very simple. Find a suitable mounting/resting place for them where they will be secure and not able to tip over, preferably as far from heat sources as possible. Any place with some air flow is also recommended. For example you do not want to install directly above your exhaust manifold. A common mounting spot available on most vehicles is on the frame rail in front of the front wheel and before the front bumper. This places the cell low on the chasis and allows for the water reservoir to be mounted higher for good water flow. Route your output hose in the same manner and secure with wire ties or by snaking behind existing wire mounts. Drill a small hole and fit or glue a barb into the air intake hose for your vehicle after the Mas / Map sensor if your vehicle is so equipped. Try to introduce the HHo as close to the intake manifold as possible. Connect your positive leads to the battery terminals and negative to a switch/relay which is grounded to your vehicle, Always use a fuse inline with your circuit ! .. You can choose to either tie into an existing switch such as your headlight switch or an existing fog light switch or install your own. Simple switches rated for 20 amps can be purchased for $4 from most auto parts stores and there is usually a wiring diagram on the back side. You can also wire the system into ACC power on your vehicle so the system only turns on when the key is on or the engine is running. You will need to use a relay if you are operating our cell over 20 amps. We recommend a relay that is rates for 30-40 amps per cell. A lighted switch is recommended so you do not forget to switch the cell off when the engine is not running. Some people wire their cell into the fuel pump relay wiring. The fuel pump wires will then switch on your circuit when they are turned on. Any auto shop should be able to help you with this.

Cooling System

The cooling system/bubbler is very easy to install. You must mount it slightly higher than the output of your cell. Most vehicles have room near the radiator or on the firewall. Both the output and return lines should be as short as possible and have no tight bends or kinks. The lid on the coolant tank comes from the factory with a small pinhole in the lid. As hot electrolyte cools it will condense and create a small vacuum. This hole is designed to relieve the vacuum in a closed system. Since your system is open to the atmosphere by way of your air intake this is not needed. You can seal the hole by simple removing the lid and gasket underneath and applying silicone sealant to the underside of the lid and replace the gasket. The picture below shows exactly how the coolant tank should be set up.

Optional Relay Wiring When Using HHO Cell Without PWM - 002
***It is recommended to use an inline 30 amp fuse on the positive wire of the HHO Cell***
****It is recommended to use at least a 30 amp rated relay**** Some relays have a middle prong not used in this application

HYBRID CONVERSIONS Dual Mode MAP/MAF Sensor Enhancer Ready to Install HYBRIDCONVERSIONS.COM

This Map Sensor Enhancer has separate City & Highway adjustments along with an On & Off (Original Factory Setting) switch. This device was designed to help fine tune fuel air ratios. This guide will outline basic operation for both version 1 and version 2. If you have the dual knob version you can fine tune in hwy mode and a default setting of less lean than HWY will be used when switched to city. Most users choose the one knob version and keep their system in HWY mode until more power or heavy acceleration is needed. At this time it is temporarily switched to city mode. Hybrid Conversions has access to manufacturer level schematics for virtually every vehicle made. We are charged a fee for access to this database as most major auto repair facilities are. The information provided from this data base is very detailed and far more detailed than an off the shelf manual. If you would like the manufacturer wiring schematic for your vehicle we can provide it for a fee of $25 for up to three vehicles. This will help you identify location of sensors and wires along with color codes and much more. Please call Hybrid Conversions Toll Free 1 800 677 1102 (hours of operation are 9am-5pm est M-F)

HOW DOES THE MAP SENSOR WORK? The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal is electrically used in a similar way to the use of Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor signal (although internally it is built differently). It takes a 5 volt power from the ECM or ECU (Engine Control Unit or Module) computer, and returns a lower signal in accordance with the vacuum in the engine. A higher output voltage means lower engine vacuum, which is then calculated as more fuel is needed. Lower output signal indicates higher engine vacuum, which requires less fuel. It's not just fuel control. The MAP sensor signal gives the computer a dynamic indication of engine load. The computer then uses this data to control not only fuel injection, but also gear shift and cylinder ignition timing. THE ENHANCER The invention we're talking about here is a simple play with resistors. A resistor is a little piece of carbon that reduces current. Higher value means it resists more. The potentiometer (pot for short) is a variable resistor, which varies its value by turning the knob. There is another resistor, a fixed value resistor, in series to the pot to increase the dial range. The MAP or Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor is a little though expensive device installed in your intake manifold, or installed on the firewall and connected to the manifold with a thin hose. It has 5 Volts or 12 Volts coming in, and it simply senses the vacuum in the manifold and attenuates (reduces, weakens) this incoming voltage by a certain factor. In other words it reduces the supply voltage to a direct current voltage in the range of 15% to 60% of the supply voltage (depending on the car's design these numbers will vary), and this varying (but non-pulsing) signal is then sent back to the computer. The arrangement of resistors simply takes this already attenuated (reduced, weakened) signal and attenuates it further. Too much attenuation stops the engine; it will simply shut off. Yet if you control it correctly, you can lean down the mixture from the balance of ingredients which is factory set at 14.7:1 (14.7 parts of air to 1 part gasoline) down to 20:1 or so. INSTALLING & TUNING ATTENTION: The tuning procedure calls for clockwise and counter-clockwise rotation of the knob. The idea is that turning knob will enhance or reduce the voltage. The Enhancer can be installed on the dashboard or sit on the console. To eliminate the work and possible damage to the dashboard, and to enable better control, place the box beside the drivers seat. This makes tuning quite effortless. Locate the 3 wires connected to the MAP sensor. There will be one for the positive supply voltage, usually 5 or 12 volts. The signal wire will be the wire with the WEAKER voltage and will change with RPM when the engine is revved. There will also be a ground wire. You can solder or crimp these with electrical wire connectors.

To find the MAP Sensor Signal Wire, use a Circuit Tester like the one above to find the correct wire. You can hook this tester in series with your multi-meter to find the actual voltage of the wires coming out of the MAP Sensor. The correct wire is the one with the lowest voltage or the one with a voltage that varies when the engine RPM is increased.

ACTUAL TUNING ON THE ROAD Turn the knob all the way to zero (The Dial should point to 0). Make sure your HHO Generator is operational. Warm up the engine and drive a while before experimenting with the knob. For speeds above 40 mph, adjust the Highway dial. 1. DO THE NEXT STEP WITH CARE ON A SIDE ROAD - JUST IN CASE YOUR ENGINE STOPS UNEXPECTEDLY. 2. Now, start turning the knob clockwise; the mixture will turn leaner and leaner until the car stalls or bucks as you drive. Back the knob off slightly after the bucking and chugging. 3. Keep the danger of overheating in mind. If your Hybrid Conversions device is non-operational, temporarily set the enhancer at or near original factory setting (0). 4. Set points can change from one gas station fuel to another, weather conditions, cold engine, etc. The differences are not large, but if you're on the edge, then the car will buck or vibrate, and you'll need to change the set point a bit. Remember that this is a simple device. 5. NOTE: If this device turns on the "check engine light" while adjusting, you can turn off the light using a ScanGauge-II or an OBD-2 Connector (1996 cars or newer). Or Some vehicles can be reset by temporarily disconnecting the negative battery terminal. MAXIMIZE BENEFITS One recent set of road tests (6-16-07) averaged 52.4% better mileage. But, tests from a week earlier on the same car averaged only 24.5%. Actually, 22% if you discount idling. WHY such great difference? The secret of the BIG DIFFERENCE between the two test groups: The later and more successful one got MORE THAN DOUBLE the average gain because the MPG was not dialed to near choke point. It was about turn closer to factory setting! Dont overwork the engine by leaning it too much play around until you find the PERFECT BALANCE point.

Frequently Asked Questions 1. When should I use the Highway and Enhanced setting? Answer: This unit can be switched to the original factory settings by putting the switch in the OFF position and is used in this position for cold starts and where conditions such as passing, steep grades or any situation that requires performance is needed. The Enhanced Switch position is used in conjunction with the Highway - City Switch, and the Highway - City Potentiometers which are leaned in to achieve the best mileage in respect to city or highway speeds. Use the Highway setting for speeds above 40 mph.

2. Will the Enhancer work on any make and model vehicle with a MAP Sensor? Answer: It will work on MAP Sensors that operate by varying a voltage to the ECU. It will not work if the MAP Sensor is frequency varied. 3. Will the Enhancer work with a MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor? Answer: If the sensor operates by varying a voltage to the ECM, it should work unless the MAF Sensor is frequency varied. If it is see below. Mass Air Flow Sensor Detail The Air Flow Sensor or Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) is one of the components of an electronic fuel injection system and is found in many of modern vehicles. The Mass Air Flow sensor is usually installed inside the intake air duct between the air filter and the engine. The Mass Air Flow sensor is used to measure the amount of air entering the engine. This measurement is used by the engine computer or ECM to calculate proper amount of fuel injected into the cylinders in order to provide optimum combustion and low emissions. If your MAF Sensor is voltage varied, incorporate the MAF Enhancer to reduce voltage to the ECM as normal. ****Some newer vehicles have a frequency based MAF sensor such as GM . On this vehicle the sensor may not respond well to the enhancer. Some user have had success attaching this device to the wire that has 5v dc on it. The input to the controller will be from the car side and the output of the controller will go to the sensor. Reverse of traditional voltage based sensors.( see picture below)

Note: The information contained in these instructions is for educational purposes only and cannot substitute for the advice of professional mechanic or authorized dealer. Hybrid Conversions assumes no responsibility for use or misuse of this product.

HYBRIDCONVERSIONS IS PROUD TO RELEASE OUR NEW DYNAMIC E.F.I.E. And DIGITAL EFIE for both narrow and wide Band O2 sensors. DASH MOUNTABLE CONTROLLER WITH DUAL 02 SENSOR CAPABILITIES. (ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION ENHANCER TO CONTROL 2 O2 SENSORS )

YOUR O2 SENSOR WILL PRODUCE A current flow or VOLTAGE SIGNAL AND SENDS THIS TO YOUR VEHICLES ECU AT RANDOM INTERVALS. THIS DATA IS USED TO CALCULATE FUEL INJECTOR DUTY CYCLES , OR TO CONTROL HOW MUCH FUEL TO ADD OR TAKE AWAY. INTRODUCING HHO INTO YOUR ENGINE WILL LEAVE EXCESS OXYGEN IN THE EXHAUST STREAM TO BE DETECTED BY THE O2 SENSORS.THIS IS LOOKED AT BY YOUR ECU AS A LEAN CONDITION AND EXCESS FUEL IS INTRODUCED TO TRY AND CORRECT THE PROBLEM. AN EFIE IS USED TO RETURN THE SIGNAL TO NORMAL OR SEND A SLIGHTLY RICH READING TO YOUR ECU. DOING THIS WILL CAUSE THE ECU TO LEAN THE FUEL AIR RATIO OR ADD LESS FUEL.

THE HYBRID CONVERSIONS DYNAMIC EFIE WORKS BY ADDING A DYNAMIC RANGE OF CURRENT or VOLTAGE TO THE ACTUAL SIGNAL AS IT IS PRODUCED BY THE SENSOR AND SENT TO THE ECU. AT THE LOW NUMBER OF THE SIGNAL IT ADS A SMALLER AMOUNT AND AT THE HIGH END IT ADDS A HIGHER AMOUNT. IT ALSO HAS A VOLTAGE LIMITER BUILT INTO THE CIRCUIT WHICH PREVENTS THE SIGNAL TO THE ECU FROM EVER READING OVER 1 VOLT WHICH WOULD CAUSE AN ERROR CODE AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON. MOST OTHER EFIE UNITS DO NOT HAVE THIS FUNCTION. WE HAVE ALSO ADDED A SOLID STATE RELAY THAT PUTS YOUR VEHICLE BACK INTO FACTORY OR OEM MODE WHEN THE UNIT IS SWITCHED OFF. OVERVIEW OF THE HYBRIDCONVERSIONS DYNAMIC E.F.I.E.

for installation instruction on the digital E.F.I.E. please watch the install video in our videos section.

INSTALLING THE EFIE : The EFIE unit should be installed inside the vehicle to ensure proper operation. The circuitry is somewhat sensitive to extreme temperature fluctuations that can be found under the hood. The values of the components on the board can change under these extreme temperatures and can slightly vary the values set during your initial tuning.

Any gauge equal to or greater than 20 awg wire can be used for positive and negative power connections. Under the seat or dash are two recommend places for installation and ACC or "keyed" power can usually be found there. Using ACC power is always recommended so that the unit will turn off when the ignition is off. Remove the 4 screws from the rear plate and slide the top cover off . Using a flathead screwdriver turn the two screws on the terminal block counter-clockwise to open the jaws. Insert the positive and negative wires through the back end cap before inserting them into the terminal block. Turn the screws clockwise until hand tight on the wire to complete the connection. You can then replace the top and rear covers. You can mount the EFIE to any surface using velcro strips or double sided tape.

Once you have mounted the EFIE you can now run the cat 5 cable through your firewall under the dash into your engine compartment. Using a straight length of coat hanger wire and pushing it through an existing rubber grommet that other factory wires go through makes the job much easier. You can tape the end of the cat 5 wire to it and fish it through. Connections to the O2 sensor wire can be made at any point accessible but be sure to not route the cat 5 wire too close to the hot exhaust manifold. If the vehicles ecu is mounted on the firewall connections can be made right there. Each wire that enters the ecu is numbered and a repair manual will list the number that corresponds with the O2 sensor signal wire. Installing at the ecu wiring harnes is much easier and professional looking. Refer to the color code chart on photo above to identify o2 sensor in and out pairs.

TUNING THE EFIE: After you have installed your unit set you volt meter to the dc volts setting , on the milivolt scale as pictured. Plug the ground into the center test port and the positive into either the left or right side ports. With the engine running and the EFIE turned off you will be reading the original O2 signal.

You can use this as a baseline figure. Typical readings will vary from 60 to 600 mv. Adding to the top number by rotating the front tuning screw clockwise will send a rich signal to the ecu. Alot of people choose to add as much voltage as possible without going over 1 volt and adding a substantial amount of HHO for ultimate gains. If your voltages reads over 1 volt you can remove the top cover and turn the corresponding voltage limiter pot clockwise to lower the voltage to just under 1 volt. The units are factory calibrated to not go over 1 volt on most vehicles and this step can usually be left out. If adjustments are needed they will be very minor, usually less than 1/4 turn.

Caution: The heat sink can reach temperatures of 200 degrees and higher when controlling higher amps.
The PWM-TBFS does not require positive from the battery. Run 12v positive from the battery to the cell. Run negative (ground) from the battery or from any other known good ground to the left terminal block in back. Run the negative from the cell into the middle terminal block. Run an ACC 12v (on while ignition is on only) to the right terminal block.

The PWM-TBFS comes equipped with a cooling fan, amp test points and screw down terminal blocks. The terminal blocks entry holes are located on the back panel, while the terminal block screws are located on the top behind the heat sinks. The cooling fan is on top in front of the heat sinks and should be clear of any foreign objects like loose wires or zip ties. The amp test points are on the front panel left of the power switch and knob.

When deciding on a location for the PWM, these three features should be taken in to consideration, most importantly the fan. Make sure there is nothing that will touch the fan and restrict air flow or operation. Give it some room to circulate air.

The PWM-TBFS is rated for 45 amps. However, we recommend you run one cell with each PWM at 20 to 25 amps.

The PWM-TBFS will control amperage from 0 to 45 amps, however, you should mix your electrolyte to only draw the desired amount of max amps. Example: If you want to run your cells at 20 amps, you should be careful to mix the electrolyte to only draw 20 to 30 amps without the PWM in line. The PWM will have to work harder and heat

up faster and to higher degrees when controlling higher concentrated electrolyte. Example: If you mix the electrolyte carelessly to draw 90 amps and try to use the PWM to control it to 30 amps, the circuit will heat up much faster to higher degrees than it is rated for and fail.

You might also like