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VORTEX SPINNING; Structure, properties and end use: KYATUHEIRE SALOME K 310914 (); SUPERVISOR:

Vortex spinning is based on the air jet spinning technology. It is used for a wider range of fiber length. In the vortex system, drafted fibers are introduced into a spindle orifice by an air vortex. As they enter and pass through the orifice, fibers are twisted by the swirling air. It can deliver yarn at up to 400 m/min. Vortex spinning is a new generation technology that enables direct spinning from sliver to packaged yarn. The technology uses vortex air to create a convergence of one end of the fibres to create the core of the yarn and to induce the other ends to wrap around each other, forming the outer layer of the yarn. The vortex spun yarn has a two-part structure; core and sheath. MVS spinning technology is favorable for cotton spinning and produces a yarn with more rings -like appearance than MJS spinning technology. This can be clearly seen by untwisting a vortex yarn by hand. Application: Murata vortex spinning is suitable for spinning various short fibers such as cotton, blended cotton, viscose, synthetics like acrylic and polyester. However, it has not been possible to spin 100% polyester. Some other spinners are producing 100% Polyester, P/V blended, P/C blended yarn on VORTEX machines but Murata does not recommend the same as of now. A wide range of yarn count can be produced ranging from 10 - 60 Ne. The MVS system is very promising, in particular for medium to fine count, 100% cotton yarns, mainly since MVS yarn strength (skein and single end ) improves as yarn count gets finer. Testing methods for yarn and fabric specifications: Yarn and fabrics produced using the MVS system can be examined using one or all of the following instruments: Yarn structure: An optical microscope together with a digital camera can be used for microscopic observation and visual assessment of the yarn structure. Tenacity: Single yarn tenacity can be measured in Premier Tensomax. The test is conducted in an atmosphere of 21oC and 60% RH. The yarns are tested for 20seconds breakage. Test length of the specimen is about 500mm and pre-Tension of 0.50cN/tex which is maintained during the tests [1]. Uster Tensorapid tester can also be used to test the tenacity and breaking elongation of the yarns. Unevenness: This can be measured in Uster evenness tester 4-SE.The test is carried out at 400m/min.

Hairiness: Test for yarn hairiness is carried out in Zweigle G566 hairiness tester with a test speed of 50m/min for length of 1000 meters. The fibre index tester can also be used for testing yarn hairiness. Bursting strength: Hydraulic bursting strength tester is used to test the bursting strength of knitted fabrics. The pressure is indicated by the tester pressure gauge. Since the rubber diaphragm requires a certain pressure to stretch it, corrections are made by doing a blank test. Abrasion resistance: Martindale abrasion fabric Tester is used to test the abrasion resistance of the fabrics. It uses the principles of two simple harmonic motions working at right angles. The knitted sample is cut into 40mm diameter and subjected to a load of 200gms weight. The loss in weight of the samples is then calculated after visual examination of the fabrics. Resistance to pilling: Pills are small knots or balls of mixture of large number of small fibers accumulated at the surface of the fabric and entangled by the mild frictional action during processing or wearing. These are tested through the I.C.I pillbox tester. Pills are soft, firmly held on the surface of the material. A piece of fabric measuring 127X127mm is stitched so as to be a firm fit when placed round a rubber tube of 152mm long, 32mm outside dia and 3mm thick. The cut ends of the fabric are covered by cellophane tape. Four such tubes encircled by the fabrics are placed in the pillbox tester (229 X 229 X 229mm), which has inner lining with cork. The box is then rotated at 60 rpm for 5 hours. The extent of pilling is assessed visually by comparison with the arbitrary standards, which are given in the table 1 below: Table 1: Arbitrary Standards: No. of pills 0-4 5-10 11-20 21-40 40-60 60 and above Standard ( Grade) 5 4 3 2 1 0

Yarn count: Simple weighing methods can be used for small length using the Beesleys yarn balance as well as Knowles yarn balance. Alternatively, the Textechno statimat can be used to examine yarn count and twist. Yarn twist: To determine the twist in single and ply yarns- twist factor, Twist testers can be used. Officine Brustio ETT can as well be used to test the twist of yarns. In addition, Zweigle D302 twist tester can be used to measure the yarn turns/metre. ZZ, Drapability: Fabric drapability is determined using Drape meter and is expressed in terms of Drape Co-efficient. A circular specimen of diameter 254mm is supported on a circular disc of diameter 127mm. When doing so, the unsupported area of the fabric drapes over the edge of the

supporting disc. The drape co-efficient, F is the ratio between the projected area of the draped specimen and its undraped specimen and its undraped area, after the deduction of the area of the supporting disc. Yarns produced: MVS 861 machine spins Ne 40 yarn at 400 m/min. The feedstock is carded cotton that has been drawn three times. Vortex spindles spinning 19.5-micrometer convert 100-percent wool into Nm 48 yarn at a speed of 250 m/min. Similarly, viscose, bamboo, modal, acrylic and in a few cases polyester yarns are produced. Cotton, viscose, modal, and bamboo can be produced at 100% as well as blended ratios. Companies producing Vortex yarns: MVS yarn is being spun at several major vertical mills. Name of company 1.Dezhou Huayuan EcoTechnology Co. Ltd. Type of yarn produced -MVS modal yarn -MVS bamboo yarn -Vortex yarn 2. Jiangsu Longma Textile -MVS viscose yarn Group Co. 3. Jiangsu Dajiali International -MVS yarn Trade -100% MVS viscose yarn -Raw white vortex viscose yarn -100% viscose vortex spun 4.Xiamen Zhanglong Import -Viscose vortex yarn and Export -Polyester MVS Yarn 5.Changzhou Baojia Knitting -100% cotton double yarn Co. Ltd vortex spinning jersey fabric 6. Hangzhou Kunto Import - 100% viscose vortex yarn and Export Co. Ltd. 7. Hangzhou Hengnui fancy - Viscose vortex yarn yarn Co. 8.Nantong Yemeng -MVS vortex acrylic yarn International Trade Co. Ltd 9.Chinatex G-way Textiles - MVS Cotton yarn Co. Ltd. -Cotton blends Vortex yarn Other industries outside China: 1.Campaigne Mauricinne de textile Ltee (CMT) Yarn count/twist -20S, 30S, 40S

-21/1ne, 24/1ne, 28/1ne, 28/2ne, 32/1ne -40S/1 ne, -20S/1-60S/1 -Ne 10S/1-40S/1 -R30,VR 30S, R60S-AA -20S -50S/1 -32S cotton combed -Ne 16-40S -30S/1 -24s/1, 28s/1, 30s/1 -32S, 40S, -60S-100S.

Phoenix,Mauritius 2. Lucky spinning Co Ltd, Bangkok Thailand. 3.TEARFIL Moreira de Conegos, Portugal. 4.Sanwa Co Ltd, Osaka Japan 5. Karsu Tekstil Sanayi Ticaret AS Kayseri Turkey. 6. The Lenzing Grp, Lenzing Ausria 7.Vasaka Industries Ltd Andhra Pradesh, India 8. LUPO S/A Sao Paulo, Brasil Fabrics being produced: The vortex yarn can be used to produce some fabrics which are not easy pilling and distortion. They possess better wear resistance and excellent launder ability. These fabrics meet the demands of customers as novel, comfortable, popular and environment friendly due to their special style. End uses include high fashion apparel and uniform apparel, work wear, home furnishings, and more. On performance, fabrics, in particular knits, made from MVS yarns show less fuzz and pill formation after frequent laundering than those made from more expensive ring spun yarns. This makes MVS yarns ideal for applications like fleece wear and single knit jersey. Fabrics made from MVS yarn have resistance to pilling and good abrasion. In addition they have a very smooth fabric handle, unlike yarns that are spun using other types of systems. The said properties make the fabrics ideal for products such as blankets as well as pieces of clothing that are worn in direct contact with the skin. A good sign of this success is a textile company in Tasmania which is now using the cotton-wool combination with MVS yarn. The yarn is used to create lightweight blankets known as SomerSoft which combine the warmth of wool with the comfort of cotton and is now selling in the Asian, UK, and Australian markets. Applications for MVS yarns are growing. Initial use focused on fleece and 100% cotton and cotton-rich sheeting. Additional end uses for MVS yarns being implemented on a commercial basis include jersey outerwear, interlock and pique knits, pile fabric, print cloth, woven twills and career apparel. Caitac Family Inc., a major pajama manufacturer in Japan, has released the 100% cotton underwear like Pyjamas which

absorb sweat while preventing stickiness. They make use of the texture of vortex yarn to produce a pique fabric which is perfect for summer. Murata Company in Japan uses the polo shirt made of Vortex yarn as employee uniforms, in order to gather honest opinions on Vortex yarn, such as wear comfort and wear ability. A famous underwear manufacturer has launched a mens inner wear made of polyestercotton-blended Vortex yarn. This material is characterized by a drying speed which 4 times higher than 100% cotton and a dry-touch feeling like cotton despite a higher blend ratio. As a sort of everyday clothes, inner wear is frequently washed, so a polyester-based material tends to cause pilling. However, Vortex yarn hardly causes pilling due to its structure, and a comfortable fit as new is sustained over a long period In Brazil Vortex yarn is often chosen for uniforms, tablecloths, and bed linens because these goods require durability. A sample of socks made of Vortex yarn (an acrylic-cotton blend) worn four times per week was proved to last up to 4 years and customers were satisfied with them because the Vortex-made socks were more comfortable. Vortex garment samples currently attract attention in apparel industries, particularly some T-shirts made from linen/polyester blended yarn, featuring dry touch, and camisole tops of Ne80 Micro lyocell with smooth feel and shiny appearance. As an example, Orim Co, Ltd, a major towel manufacturer, has decided to release 100% cotton towels using Vortex yarn. A Vortex-made towel shows a higher absorption rate than a Ring-yarn towel. Therefore, the Vortex-made towel is superior in absorbing water, which is the essential function of a towel. In clothing, absorbing water means absorbing sweat.

Conclusion: Murata Vortex spinning technology is a modified form of jet spinning which has attracted a lot of attention because of its advantages over ring, open end and air-jet spinning. It has a high productivity rate, its yarn structure is similar to ring yarn, low hairiness and most important; it is possible to use a wider fibre length range to spin a wider yarn size production rage for 100% cotton. An increasing number of industries are introducing vortex spinning since its suitable for spinning rayon yarn that has moderate te anti pilling property and softness. Of late, its being highly evaluated because its capable of producing polyester products requiring luxurious luster. REFERENCES: 1. Liu Y: Controlling air vortex in air vortex spinning by Zeng-He model. 2. A. Basu: Progression air jet spinning: Textile progress Vol 29 No. 3. 3. Yeim Beceren: Comparison of the Effects of Cotton Yarns Produced by New, Modified and Conventional Spinning Systems on Yarn and Knitted Fabric Performance. 4. www. muratec-vortex.com 5. www.astm.org/standards/d6797.htm. 6. Rameshkuar C: Studies on ring rotor and vortex yarn knitted fabrics.

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