LIST OF STRAWBERRY TYPES Prior to browsing our table of strawberry varieties, it is important to review the three types of strawberries.

Strawberry plants can be either June-bearing (June bearing), everbearing (ever-bearing), or day-neutral (day neutral). June-bearing strawberry varieties: Any list of strawberry varieties will probably contain more June-bearing strawberry varieties than any other. June bearers are tremendously popular and common. They typically produce the largest strawberries, and do so over a period of two to three weeks, on average. Most June bearing strawberry varieties produce a harvest around the month of June, hence the name. However, strawberry varieties are further classified into Early Season, Midseason, and Late Season. By selecting strawberry plant varieties that produce during different parts of the season, you can prolong your harvest and enjoy fresh strawberries for an extended period of time. June bearing strawberries are most often of the Garden Strawberry variety (Fragaria x ananassa). June bearing strawberry varieties are often planted using the matted row system. For reference, each of the June bearing strawberry types generally sets fruit for a total of 10 to 14 days. Early Season strawberry varieties usually begin fruiting in late spring. Early Midseason strawberry varieties begin fruiting about 5 days after Early Season varieties. Midseason strawberry varieties begin producing approximately 8 days after Early Season varieties. Late Midseason strawberry varieties begin fruiting about 10 days after Early Season varieties, and Late Season strawberry varieties begin their berry production about 14 days after the Early Season varieties.

Everbearing strawberry varieties: Everbearing strawberry varieties arent really everbearing. They generally produce two harvests per year: one in the spring and another in the late summer or fall. Under ideal conditions, it is possible for some everbearing strawberry varieties to produce three berry harvests. Most everbearing strawberry types are of the speciesFragaria vesca. In general, everbearing strawberry varieties put out less runners (or no runners at all) than the June bearing varieties, as most of the plants productive energy is directed

toward producing multiple strawberry harvests. Everbearing strawberry varieties are often planted using the hill system or in locations where space is limited. Day-neutral strawberry varieties: Day neutral strawberry varieties are unique. Unlike June bearing varieties, day neutral strawberries will produce a good yield in the first year they are planted. They flower and set strawberries whenever the temperature is between 35 and 85 degrees. They will still be producing fruit in October during milder years. The drawback to day neutral strawberry plants is that they produce smaller strawberries than do the June bearing and everbearing strawberry varieties. Their fruit is usually small to medium in size, rarely exceeding one inch. Day neutral strawberry varieties are often planted using the hill system or in locations where space is limited.

Strawberry Plant Types First of all, you should decide which type of strawberry plant you want to grow. They basically come in three varieties:

June Bearing: this strawberry plant is the most common, producing one large crop per year, during a 2-3 week period in spring. June bearers produce lots of runners and flowers, and are subdivided into early, mid-season and late varieties. The fruits they produce are usually the largest of the three types Everbearing: these plants do not send out many runners, but they produce two or three intermittent crops during the fall, spring and summer. Their berries are generally smaller than june bearing Day Neutral: these plants are similar to the everbearing variety, in that they produce small berries, albeit throughout the growing season (and not intermittently).

You should choose june bearing plants if you have ample space for them, while everbearing and day neutral types are best for growing strawberries indoors. Planting Strawberry Plants You should bear in mind that strawberries need a lot of sun, so they should be exposed to sunlight for at least six hours per day. They prefer a slightly acidic soil, with a pH from 5.8 to 6.3. A well drained, sandy loam is the ideal setting. Please be aware that certain plants such as eggplants, tomatoes, peppers and potatoes carry a dangerous Verticillium that can cause your strawberry plant to rot, so you should plant it far from the aforementioned vegetables. A good time to plant is around late fall, early spring: make sure that the soil is dry enough.

Success depends on many factors, but the most important are making sure that your plant is disease free (it should be certified as such) and choosing a plant with light-colored, healthy roots and large crowns. It should be planted in a hole large enough to spread the roots, with a hilled center, and the crown placed at soil level: the roots should be spread down the central hill, and the plant should be buried only halfway up the crown. Using organic matter (about 1 to 2 inches) ensures enough nutrients and is highly recommended. Matted row system

Strawberries in a matted row system - recommended for June bearing varieties As a general rule, the matted row system is good for plants sending out lots of runners (e.g. june bearing strawberries). Plants should be set 18 inches apart in rows of 24 inches, with 4 - 4 1/2 feet between rows. Shortly after planting, you should start to see flower buds and leaves: flowers should be pinched off for the first year (in june bearing varieties); this will allow for a healthier plant and more runners, and will ensure a larger crop, for more years, in the following cycles. Everbearing and day neutral varieties' flowers should be pinched off only until July 1st. When you start seeing runners from the crown, train them along the row and space them 6 to 9 inches apart, pressing them gently into the soil and keeping them there with a light weight or an inch of soil until their roots have grown; severing runners from the mother plant is not recommended. Hill System The hill system is recommended for varieties that produce few runners, namely everbearing and day neutral. This system consists of a raised bed 2 feet wide and 7 inches high, with plants in staggered double rows, 13 inches apart. If you want a higher crop production and a healthier plant, you should sacrifice runners and flowers until the beginning of july in the first year; you can then let them produce at will.

Please be aware that these plants should be replaced every 3 to 4 years, since multiple harvests tend to significantly slow down their production after this period. Mulching Strawberries Mulching is recommended to keep the soil cool and moist, and to prevent weeds from stealing valuable nutrients from your plant. A good option is the traditional straw, and you should avoid any material that causes the soil to heat (such as dark plastic) since this will hamper fruit production. If you live in a cold climate, it is advisable to mulch over the strawberry plant to prevent the crowns from frosting, starting when the temperature drops to 18-19 F degrees. Again, straw is recommended, as are pine needles and any kind of mulch that can be easily removed in spring. Watering and Fertilizing Your strawberry plant should be watered with about 1-2 inches of water, per week. You should take care especially from the early bloom to the end of harvest, since this is the time when fruit is forming and its water needs are higher. If you began with organic soil as suggested, you have the beginning part covered: you should follow it up with a 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer (about 1 lb per 100 square feet) when planting, and again after the second harvest of everbearing and day neutrals (or after renovation of June bearers). More is not necessarily better with fertilizers: too much will improve leaf growth at the expense of flowers (and fruit); fertilizing in the cold season is also not recommended since new growth will probably frost and reduce the plant's yield. Harvesting your Strawberries Fruit should be handled with care, as it is easily crushed: you should cut the stems and not pull on the fruit itself. A good indicator of the ripeness is a deep-red color, but this depends on the species and the only failsafe method is a taste test. Renovating the June bearing bed Strawberry plants should be changed after about 3-4 years, since their yield tends to drop afterwards: a good renovation regimen will prolong their life to five years. Renovation consists of mowing the plants to about 2-3 inches in height, taking care not to damage the crowns; it should be followed with a 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of 5lbs per 100 linear feet of row, mulching as needed. The width of the mat rows should be reduced to 18 inches by removing one side and leaving the young plants, which should be thinned to about 8 inches apart.