4

CONTENTS

Marine Phytochemical Compounds and Their Cosmeceutical Applications

Abdul Bakrudeen Ali Ahmed and Rosna Mat Taha

Abstract ............................................................................................................................................ 51 4.1 Introduction ............................................................................................................................ 51 4.1.1 Cosmeceuticals ........................................................................................................... 52 4.1.2 Marine Natural Product Discovery ............................................................................ 53 4.2 Phytochemical Compounds with Cosmeceutical Applications .............................................. 54 4.2.1 Mycosporine ............................................................................................................... 54 4.2.2 Pseudopterosins .......................................................................................................... 54 4.2.3 Neo Fatty (Carboxylic) Acid Derivatives.................................................................... 55 4.2.4 Phlorotannins .............................................................................................................. 56 4.2.5 Polycyclic Musk Compounds...................................................................................... 57 4.2.6 -Benzylmercaptoethylamine (-BMEA) Derivatives ............................................... 57 4.2.7 Petroleum Derivatives................................................................................................. 58 4.2.8 Other Cosmetic Compounds ....................................................................................... 58 4.3 Conclusion .............................................................................................................................. 59 References ........................................................................................................................................ 59

ABSTRACT

Cosmeceuticals consist of a large number of phytochemical components combined together that have been isolated from various marine resources. The structural diversity of these marine compounds comes from different modification reactions of the main derivatives. The recent progress opens an avenue toward understanding how marine natural products and their potential for development identify novel potent phytochemical compounds for cosmeceutical purposes. The biological roles of cosmetic, cells have evolved complex machinery for controlling skin care production Au: Please clarify this sentence. Meaning and alter the ionic balance and can result in a recovery of the skin. This chapter assembles major is not clear. cells research findings of marine-based phytochemical compounds, which is of direct relevance to phar- have evolved complex machinery maceuticals, functional foods, and cosmetic skin care products. This cosmetic substitutes are being developed to enhance
restoration ionic balance and prevents the skin drying.

4.1 INTRODUCTION
Marine (or blue) biotechnology encompasses the applications of biotechnology tools on marine resources. It encompasses those efforts that involve the marine resources of the world, as either the source or target of biotechnology applications. Biotechnology is the application of science and
51

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Marine Cosmeceuticals: Trends and Prospects

technology to living organisms, as well as parts, products, and models, and alters living or nonliving materials for the production of knowledge, goods, and human services. In the case of marine biotechnology, the living organisms derive from marine sources. Biotechnology is defined as the industrial use of living organisms or biological techniques developed through basic research; marine biotechnology is an emerging discipline based on the use of marine natural resources. The ocean covers about 70% of the earths surface, providing a diverse living environment for invertebrates (Lalli and Parsons 1993). The marine environment is a rich source of both biological and chemical diversity. This diversity has been the source of unique chemical compounds with the potential for industrial development as pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, nutritional supplements, molecular probes, fine chemicals, and agrochemicals. The marine environment is an exceptional reservoir of bioactive natural products, many of which exhibit structural/chemical features not found in terrestrial natural products (Carte 1996). Marine organisms have evolved biochemical and physiological mechanisms that include the production of bioactive compounds for such purposes as reproduction, communication, and protection against predation, infection, and competition (Halvorson 1998). Therefore, marine natural products will play a major role in drug discovery in the future. To date, researchers have isolated approximately 7,000 marine natural products, 25% of which are from algae, 33% from sponges, 18% from coelenterates (sea whips, sea fans, and soft corals), and 24% from representatives of other invertebrate phyla, such as ascidians (also called tunicates), opisthobranch mollusks (nudibranchs, sea hares, etc.), echinoderms (starfish, sea cucumbers, etc.), and bryozoans (moss animals) (Kijjoa and Sawangwong 2004). Initial attempts were determining the chemical nature of marine organisms and were simply extensions of tried and true phytochemical techniques. Thus, easily accessible organisms (generally sponges and encrusting organisms such as ascidians) were collected by hand using snorkel or simple scuba systems, and then their chemical components were extracted and identified. Any biological activity was found as an afterthought in these initial experiments (though as shown above, active compounds could be found by these techniques that would ultimately be useful as treatments for human diseases). A corollary to the more systematic searching for marine-derived products was that very sensitive analytical tools had to be used, as in general, the amount of bioactive materials that could be recovered was exceedingly small.

4.1.1 CosmeCeutiCals
Seaweeds are one of the potential contributions for cosmetic compounds production. In this chapter, the majority of the cosmetic compounds are seaweeds. The total world seaweed production is estimated to be 8.5 million metric tons. Of this, 88.65% (i.e., 7.5 million metric tons) is produced by cultivation in an area of 200 103 ha, while the remaining 0.96 million metric tons are exploited from the natural seaweed beds world over (FAO 2003). The seaweed industry uses 7.58 million metric tons of wet seaweeds annually either from the wild or from cultivated crop. The estimated value of a wide variety products derived from the seaweeds is US$56 billion (FAO 2004). In earlier days, the seaweeds were used for food preparation, and later they were used to yield industrial, medicinal, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic products (Dhargalkar and Verlecar 2009). Cosmeceuticals, derived from the words cosmetic and pharmaceutical, have drug-like benefits and contain active ingredients such as vitamins, phytochemical components, enzymes, antioxidants, and essential oils. Cosmeceuticals have attracted and increased attention to the world, because of their beneficial effects on human health. Hence, bioactive substances derived from marine organisms have diverse functional roles as secondary metabolites, and these properties can be applied to the development of novel pharmaceuticals and cosmeceuticals. Recently, extensive studies have been conducted on the general aspects of the chemical structures, physical and biochemical properties, and biotechnological applications of bioactive substances derived from marine organisms. Global industry analysis of the advancement in scientific disciplines such as molecular biology, bioinformatics, and genomics has also contributed to world market growth. Marine biomaterials represent the largest segment of the market, including the thickener carrageen, often used in cosmetic products. In addition, the

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marine bioactive substances used for their functional properties make up the second largest market segment and would include all algae and seaweed-based actives used in the cosmetics, nutraceutical, and pharmaceutical products. Increasing numbers of highly targeted products are hitting the market, from ingredients specifically designed to fight against double chins to products designed for postmenopausal skin.

4.1.2 marinenaturalProduCtdisCovery
The phytochemical drug discovery process can be divided into four steps: drug target identification, target validation, lead compounds identification, and optimization. Marine natural products have often opened up completely new therapeutic approaches. They have contributed to identifying and understanding novel biochemical pathways and proved to make not only valuable marine drugs available but also essential tools in biochemistry and molecular cell biology (Grabley and Sattler 2003). Marine organisms contain various chemical components, such as saponins, alkaloids, volatile oils, flavonoids, and anthraquinones. In the development of rapid and reproducible analytical techniques, the combination of HPLC with different detectors, such as diode array detector (DAD), refractive index detector (RID), evaporative light scattering detector (ELSD), and mass spectrometric detector (MAD), have been widely developed. It is important to use the phytochemical methods to screen and analyze bioactive components, not only for the quality control of crude drugs, but also for the elucidation of their therapeutic mechanisms. Some of the compounds from marine invertebrates initially discovered were either too toxic or not effective in treating diseases for pharmaceutical purposes, but were found to be useful as biological tools, cosmetic ingredients, or agrochemicals (Fenical 1997). To date, examples of marinederived drugs include an antibiotic from fungi, two closely related compounds from a sponge that treat cancer and the herpes virus, and a neurotoxin from a snail that has painkiller properties making it 10,000 times more potent than morphine without any side effects. However, there are several more marine-derived compounds currently in clinical trials, and it is likely that many more will advance to the clinic as more scientists look to the sea for these biotechnological uses. In addition to new medicines, other uses for marine-derived compounds include cosmetics (algae, crustacean, and sea fan compounds), nutritional supplements (algae and fish compounds), artificial bone (corals), and industrial applications (fluorescent compounds from jellyfish, novel glues from mussels, and heat-resistant enzymes from deep-sea bacteria). These products have received increasing attentionfrom chemists and pharmacologists during the last two decades. They have been exploited for a variety of purposes, including use as food, fragrances, pigments, insecticides, and medicines. Through an improved biological screening method the role of these products in drug discovery has been greatly enhanced in the last few years. These products show an interesting array of diverse and novel chemical structures with potent biological activities. It is apparent that they have significant potential as pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, nutraceuticals, research tools, and others. Over the past 50 years, marine organisms have provided key structures and compounds that proved their potential for industrial development as cosmetics, nutritional supplements, fine chemicals, agrochemicals, and therapeutic agents for a variety of diseases (Tziveleka et al. 2003). Chemistry is a central, useful, and creative science, assuming in many aspects the characteristics of an interdisciplinary science, which supplies the essential means and the fundamental language for the correct understanding of other scientific disciplines (Breslow 1997). Life is in fact based on chemistry. Birth, growth, reproduction, aging, diseases, and death depend on chemical transformations executed by the primary and secondary metabolisms of living organisms. In contrast, secondary metabolism, predominantly found in plants, microorganisms, fungi, marine organisms, and to a lower extent, animals, was proved to include processes nonessential for the continuity of the life cycle or for growth and development. Thousands of novel compounds have been isolated from various marine organisms and tested for cosmeceuticals properties, many of which are commercially available. The screening of natural products derived from marine species of cosmetics has yielded a

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Marine Cosmeceuticals: Trends and Prospects

considerable number of active crude aqueous and organic solvent extracts. The present review therefore aims toward the assessment of marine resources and cosmeceutical production. Attempts have also been made to quantify the potential marine organisms for commercial exploitation for their unique use as bioactive compounds with cosmetic properties. The present communication discussing the methodologies is proposed to develop and manage this resource for sustainable utilization for marine cosmeceutical production.

4.2 HYTOCHEMICALCOMPOUNDSWITHCOSMECEUTICALAPPLICATIONS P 4.2.1 myCosPorine

Mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are low molecular weight water-soluble molecules absorbing UV radiation in the wavelength range of 310 ~ 365 nm secondary metabolites involved in the protection of marine and fresh water organisms against solar radiation (Figure4.1). They are accumulated in a wide range of prokaryotic microorganisms (cyanobacteria), eukaryotic microorganisms (microalgae, yeast, and fungi), marine microalgae, corals, and other marine organisms. MAA plays a role in skin protection against UV radiation. These natural products are characterized by a cyclohexenone or cyclohexenimine chromophore conjugated with one or two amino acids, which present an absorption maximum ranging from 310 to 360 nm (Nakamura and Kobayashi 1982). Shallow-water corals produce the large quantities of MAAs, and their apparent ability to withstand long-term environmental UV exposure suggests utilization of their UV-absorbing chromophore for sunscreen application, 1-alkyl-3-alkanoyl-1,4,5,6 tetrahydropyridines, based on their natural UV protection. Several sunscreen candidates have been examined for sunscreen suitability, and a limited selection is being tested for potential use in human skin care and cosmetic products (Dunlap et al. 1998).

4.2.2 PseudoPterosins
These compounds are part of a complex mixture reported (Look et al. 1986) from Caribbean gorgonian Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae and have the distinction of being the first commercialized human use marine natural product. As a particularly purified defined mixture, they are constituents of the cosmetic antiwrinkle sold by Estee Lauder under the brand name Resilience. However, the pseudopterosins mechanism was further delineated (Mayer et al. 1998). The pseudopterosins (Figure4.2) are tricyclic diterpene glycosides isolated from the Caribbean Sea whip (gorgonian) Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae (Gorgoniidae). They are potent anti-inflammatory and analgesic agents and appear to inhibit eicosanoid biosynthesis by inhibition of both PLA2 and 5-lopoxygenase. Interestingly, the pseudopterosins that are found to inhibit only pseudopterosins may well be a function of the glycoside moiety and a novel example of drug targeting (Potts and Faulkner 1992).
O OH N O HO HO NH OH O CH3

AU: Vitam derivative

FIGURE4.1 Structure of mycosporine derivatives.

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Marine Phytochemical Compounds and Their Cosmeceutical Applications

19 5 18 3 2 4 6

55

H O OR1 OR4 O OR2

7 8 13 12 11 9 10

OR3

17 15

14

CH3
20

16

Pseudopterosin A: R1 = R2 = R3 = R4 = H Pseudopterosin B: R1 = Ac, R2 = R3 = R4 = H Pseudopterosin C: R2 = Ac, R1 = R3 = R4 = H Pseudopterosin C: R3 = Ac, R1 = R2 = R4 = H

FIGURE4.2 Structure of pseudopterosins

A simpler modification of the psedopterosins may have entered phase I clinical trials as an antiinflammatory agent, though the structure and company were not listed in the reference to the trial (Proksch et al. 2002). Since then, the pseudopterosins have been licensed to a small pharmaceutical firm, Osteo Arthritis Science, Inc., for medical use as potential anti-inflammatory drugs. The company has completed preclinical tests of one pseudopterosin, a potent tropical anti-inflammatory compound, and filed an Investigational New Drug (IND) application with the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Clinical trials on human subjects for irritant contact dermatitis are anticipated.

4.2.3 neoFatty(CarboxyliC)aCidderivatives
Neo acids and derivatives have a low order of toxicity and are used by different chemical companies for synthesis of novel biologically active compounds in the fields of agronomy, medicine, and cosmetics. The development of surfactants based on natural renewable resources is a concept that is gaining recognition in detergents, cosmetics, and green chemistry. Acid- or base-catalyzed hydrolysis of complex lipids yields the free neo fatty acid (Figure4.3). These long- or short-chain acids are generally referred to by their common names, which in most cases reflect their sources. Natural neo fatty acid can be saturated, unsaturated, or branched. The saturated (branched) acids have higher melting points than unsaturated acids of corresponding size (Wickson and Moore 1964). Neo fatty (carboxylic) acid derivatives are used in cosmetic, agronomic, and pharmaceutical industries. Different pivalic acid derivatives or compounds with a tertiary butyl group are produced and used in the cosmetic, agronomic, and perfume industries. Skin creams and lotions contain a pivaloyl ascorbic acid and pivaloyl derivates (De Silva and Scheuer 1980) as well as derivatives of vitamin E, including vitamin E acetate, vitamin E nicotinate, and vitamin E. These cosmetics have little irritating effect on skin, and they condition the skin for a long period of time (Deems et al. 1987). Two seco-theapiranes (Glaser and Jacobs 1986) with pronounced black currant notes were synthesized as odor and odorous substances and used in cosmetics (Kernan et al. 1987). Derivatives of neo
n COOH

AU: Vitamin E is a derivative of vitamin E?

as well as derivatives of vitamin E (vitamin E acetate and vitamin E nicotinate)

FIGURE4.3 Structure of neo-fatty acids derivatives (n = 1 to 13).

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fatty acid (Deems et al. 1987; Kernan et al. 1987) are used in the cosmetic industry. An amide of a trialkylacetic acid amide of neo fatty acid (Yang and Andersen 2002) and a polyamine were used with a particulate carrier (e.g., detergent builder or filler) or liquid medium (e.g., aqueous nonionic surfactant solution) in a composition that was added to fabrics in a laundry bath to impart antistatic properties of fabrics after laundering and automatic machine drying (Yang and Andersen 2002). Neo fatty acid constituents are the most abundant class of natural compounds and are components of complex lipids. Neo fatty acids differ in their number of olefinic bonds, the extent of branching, the length of the hydrocarbon chain, and the number of functional groups (Minnikin et al. 2002; Dembitsky 2005). This neo cis-isomer Neo fatty (carboxylic) acids as well as other metabolites containing a tertiary butyl group belong derivatives have a to a rare group of natural products. In the last 100 years fewer than 300 representatives from this highly diffusible rare and unique group of secondary metabolites have been identified. However, many different cyclamen-like and floral scent; the natural and synthesized compounds with tert-butyl groups show high biological activities. 2,4-D neo trans-isomers di-tert-butylcyclohexanones have been synthesized and their components used, as in perfume. Neo derivative have an fatty acid derivative has a mild, soft, floral-woody, and violet-like scent. An equal mixture of cis and orris-like woody scent (Takei et al. trans isomers of compounds has a mild, soft, floral-woody, and violet-like scent. This cis isomer has 1994). a highly diffusible cyclamen-like and floral scent, the trans isomer of compound (Takei et al. 1994). AU: Please rewrite for sense. The most biologically active forms of the insect attractant trimedlure, a synthetic lure used to attract male Mediterranean fruit flies, are the tert-Bu esters of cis-4- and trans-5-chloro-trans-2 methylcyclohexanecarboxylic acids (Coulson and ODonnell 2000; Shen and Burgoyne 2002). This new class of biodegradable and biocompatible products is a response to the increasing consumer demand for products that are greener, milder, and more efficient. Juniperus occidentalis and Chamaecuparis lawsoniana are commercial products for pest repellents and cosmetics (Duringer et al. 2010).

4.2.4 Phlorotannins
As shown in this review, there are significant numbers of very interesting molecules that have come from marine sources, among them phlorotannins, an important compound. Phlorotannin derivatives (Figure4.4) from Ecklonia cava and has been present in due to its limited origin (only Korea and Japan), but also due to the presence of unique phlorotannin derivatives with a special natural ratio in Ecklonia cava. Based on the literature, it could be suggested that phlorotannins derived from Ecklonia cava compounds have worthy potential for application as antioxidants, in the functional food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries. Meanwhile, additional studies on the mechanisms and in vivo are highly warranted to achieve a better understanding of important antioxidant properties of the isolated phlorotannins from Ecklonia cava. It could be suggested that phlorotaninns
5' 3' OH

AU: Please rewrite for sense.

HO Ecklonia cava algae is becoming the focus for targeting effective antioxidants towards oxidative stress in human body due to the presence of diverse natural products with unique and unique structures possibly caused by extreame marine environment.

1' OH 9 8 9a O 10a O 1 OH 3 OH

AU: Pleas sense.

HO

5a O

4a

FIGURE4.4 Structure of phlorotannin derivatives.

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Marine Phytochemical Compounds and Their Cosmeceutical Applications

CH3 O O CH3 H3C H3C CH3 CH3 O CH3 H 3C H 3C CH3 CH3 H 3C CH3 CH3 O

57

H3C H3C H3C

CH3

H3C

CH3

H 3C H3C

H3C

CH3 CH3 CH3

Galaxolide

Tonalide

Celestolide

Phantolide

H3C O CH3

H3C

CH3 CH3 O

CH3

H3C

CH3

H3C H3 C CH3 CH3

H 3C

CH3

CH3

H3C

CH3 H3C

CH3

Traseolide

Versalide

Cashmeran

write for

FIGURE4.5 Structure of polycyclic musk compounds.

would be more potential candidates for the development of unique natural antioxidants for future industrial applications as functional foods, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals (Li et al. 2009).

4.2.5 PolyCyCliCmuskComPounds
Polycyclic musks from the marine environment are used in almost all scented consumer products, such as perfumes, cosmetics, and laundry detergents. Their production has been increased continuously during the last few years with a worldwide production volume today of about 6,000 tons per year. Today, almost all of the polycyclic musks used in cosmetics and fragrance products are of synthetic origin (Rimkus 1999). Polycyclic musks are used in almost all consumer products, such as perfumes, cosmetics, soaps, shampoos, laundry detergents, fabric softeners, household cleaners, air fresheners, and other household products (Rimkus 1999). The synthetic musks are still widely used as artificial fragrances added to perfume, household, hygienic and cosmetic products (Kallenborn et al. 2001). Recently isolated polycyclic musk compound structures and descriptions are given in Figure4.5. In contrast to most of the conventional environmental contaminants, synthetic musk is a relatively heterogeneous group of chemicals with just one common general property. The odorous character of all compounds makes them favorable to produce synthetic musks for application in perfumes and other cosmetic products (Kallenborn et al. 2001). The sum of nitro musks usually contributes about 620% of the total synthetic musk burden. This value is surprisingly high and indicates a larger proportion of nitro musks used as fragrances in cosmetic and hygienic products offered at the Norwegian market (Kallenborn et al. 2001).

4.2.6 -benzylmerCaPtoethylamine(-bmea)derivatives
AU: Please rewrite for sense.

The

-Benzylmercaptoethylamine (-BMEA) derivatives (Figure4.6) functionality, and its derivatives are the most widely used synthons for the incorporation of the cysteamine moiety into many natural and nonnatural products. The utility of this functionality arises from distinct advantages, including ease of preparation, stability, and compatibility with diverse reaction conditions, commercial availability, and scope of functional group manipulation through the reactive amine terminal, thioether linkage, or substituents in the aryl ring (Tochrop et al. 2009). Apart from their wide-ranging applications in organic synthesis, this functionality has been further utilized in a range of applications that span from materials to cosmetics. To incorporate the

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R S NH2

R = H or substituents

FIGURE4.6 General structure of -BMEA derivatives.

cysteamine moiety into many natural and nonnatural products, -BMEA derivatives have been used as efficient and important synthons in various fields of chemistry. These derivatives have also provided access to many heterocycles and biologically active compounds. Their use in synthesis of a high number of 99m TC binding ligands clearly shows their value in the nuclear medicine field. Further, the presence of a thioether donor as well as a reactive amine terminal has made this functionality broadly important as polydentate ligands in inorganic chemistry. Truly, this functionality is broadly applicable and synthetically versatile. This report is meant to highlight this utility and versatility and serve as a resource for the further use of the -BMEA (Tochrop et al. 2009).

4.2.7 Petroleumderivatives
Petroleum is a viscous liquid mixture that contains thousands of compounds mainly consisting of carbon and hydrogen. All petroleum products are derived from crude oil whose major constituents are hydrocarbons. Petroleum components can be separated into four fractions, the saturated, aromatic, resin, and asphaltene fractions, by absorption chromatography. Each of these fractions contains a large number of compounds, and these products are the major source of energy for industry and daily life. Petroleum is also the raw material for many chemical products such as plastics, paints, and cosmetics (Karlsen and Larter 1991; Harayama et al. 1999).

AU: Pleas marine w

AU: Pleas marine w

4.2.8 otherCosmetiCComPounds
A major cosmetic ingredient from the Antarctic seaweeds seems to be the latest craze of cosmetic formulation. In addition, cosmetic markers are looking for pure and uncontaminated natural ingredients. The resistance of Antarctic seaweeds to the cold environment is boosted by their specific composition of polyunsaturated fatty acids and sugars, which allow them to resist differences in osmotic pressure as well as low temperature. The Caribbean gorgonian, Pseudopterogorgonian elisabethae, is an example of a source of marine natural product used in the cosmetic industry. The extract from this gorgonian shows anti-inflammatory activity, which nowadays is used as an ingredient in cosmetic skin care products (Proksch et al. 2002). According to Green tech company (French supplier of cosmetics), the extracts obtained from such seaweeds are highly concentrated in active substances, giving them protective, moisturizing, and soothing properties (Dhargalkar and Verlecar 2009). The cold water conditions and suitable habitat that have persisted for at least 14 million years in the southern hemisphere have resulted in the strong adaptation to low temperature, especially in endemic Antarctic seaweeds (Wiencke et al. 1994). Adaption to survive the cycle of freezing and thawing at low temperatures could be an essential quality of these seaweeds as a potential source for cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries (Wiencke and Dieck 1989). Paris-based laboratories Kurbiel launched their polar skin ethics range that features marine algae and Antarctic seaweed, which grow in the freezing waters of Antarctica. These seaweeds develop active ingredients that block the effects of metalloproteinase, an enzyme that accelerates the skin aging process. These products are dedicated to men between the ages of 25 and 50 (Gallon 2006). Sargafuran is one of the active compounds isolated from Sargassum macrocarpum (brown alga), and this might be useful

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as a lead compound to develop new types of anti-propionibacterium acne substances and new skin care cosmetics to prevent or improve acne (Kamei et al. 2009). Red algae species such as Ceramium rubrum and Porphyra leucosticta show that due to a high percentage of vitamin C and natural carotenoids, Porphyra leucosticta could become a valuable source of raw material to obtain such compounds, which have multiple uses in the pharmaceutical field and cosmetics and food industry (Sava et al., 2009). Ceramium rubrum, the red alga, is well known as an agar source and can be used to obtain chlorophyll a, this green pigment being a useful therapeutic agent that can also be used in the cosmetics industry (as a deodorant) (Sava et al. 2009). Marine phytochemical compounds application to drugs has been explored since the early 1970s, but only a small number of marine natural products (MNPs) have been applied to pharmaceuticals (Newman and Cragg 2004). Recently, the increasing numbers of MNPs have been developed for cosmetics and nutraceuticals (Venugopal 2008). The number of MNPs that have been applied to the biotechnological industry is very limited, although nearly 20,000 new compounds were discovered from marine organisms (Fusetani 2010). Marine sponges produce secondary metabolites that can be used as a natural source for the design of new drugs and cosmetics (Caralt et al. 2010).

4.3 CONCLUSION
AU: Please indicate marine what.

AU: Please indicate marine what.

In conclusion, marine is a very interesting resource, not only due to its limited origin but also due to the presence of unique cosmeceuticals derivates, with special cosmetic applications. It could be suggested that cosmetic derivatives from marine are one of the major resources for human mankind. Cosmetology, the science of alteration of appearance, has been practiced since primordial times. In South Asia, the concept of using marines for beautification finds its origin in traditional medicine literature. The cosmetic preparations were used for the purpose of worship and sensual enjoyment. Moreover, the marine extracts, in whole or part, have been used for various ailments of the skin, hair, and for overall appearance. The market research shows an upward trend in the marine trade, with the marine cosmetic industry playing a major role in fueling this worldwide demand for marine sources. The recent interest of consumers in marine cosmetics has been stimulated by the decline of faith in modern cosmetics and the reference to successful historical use by different cultures. These reasons have contributed to the increased acceptance as well as manufacture of marine cosmetics. Moreover, a few high-value-added compounds recovered from such type of byproducts are economically more attractive than the target cosmetic products themselves. Development of novel and clean technologies aimed at more efficient recovery of bioactive nutraceutical compounds from marine byproducts will lead to the development of more profitable processes, thus giving rise to many great opportunities to the marine industry.

As has been demonstrated in this review, the potential for marine natural products as sources and/or leads to drugs that cover a very wide range of cosmeceutical applications. While the marine world offers an extremely rich bioresource for novel compounds, it also represents a great challenge that requires inputs from various scientific area, to bring the marine chemical diversity upto its therapeutic potential.

AU: Please indicate marine what.

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