Surfer

Shock and awe are feelings I’ve experienced in Hawaii many times before—usually due to the power of the waves, their proximity to the reef and how swells there are prone to doubling in size if you take your eyes off the horizon for even half a second

Through the 1990s, there was indeed no slap on the North Shore feared more than that from Pipe commander Johnny Boy Gomes, the bruising power surfer who, at 5’9" and 200 pounds, was built like a bulldozer with a ferocious temper to match. He struck f

Just get out there and make a go of it. I was doing badly in amateur events as a teenager, but Luke Egan grabbed me and said, “Fuck that amateur stuff. Come have a go at the Tour.” I told my mom I was leaving school to try to make it as a pro. She fr

“I’d been riding a lot of twin-fin eggs in smaller waves in the summer, but I wanted to make a bigger one for Blacks in the winter. So I was already planning on making an 8’0" round-tail egg, but before I did, my dog, Kimbo, passed away when I was ou

“They let their surfing do the talking” has long been considered one of the highest compliments we, as a culture, can bestow upon a surfer. It implies a kind of humble disinterest in the spotlight of surf stardom, as if to say that how we ride waves

If you’ve spent any time there at all, it may be difficult to imagine, but Pipeline wasn’t always the spotlight-illuminated headliner on surfing’s main stage: the North Shore of Oahu. Until the late ‘60s, that distinction belonged to the big, warbly

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poised to affect positive change along his home coastlines and beyond I WAS SITTING ON MY BOARD AT THE OPENING OF A RIVER MOUTH JUST OUTSIDE HILO, HAWAII, GETTING JOSTLED IN CLOUDY, BRACKISH WATER BY SIZEABLE SWELLS THAT HAD LOOKED MUCH MORE MANAGEAB

You know that cheesy, old adage about home being where the heart is? Well, cheesy or not, every surfer who’s ever hit the road and found a wave perfectly suited to their approach knows that on some level that’s true. Although the surfy version of tha

I simply could not believe it. This freaking guy. He’d barely scratch into a wave at the boil-ridden, sand-sucking point we were surfing before hilariously biffing the drop and getting pitched into the flats, board tombstoning. While he flailed aroun

Ex-pro snowboarder Colter Deupree breaks down his snowboard-inspired designs If you were to walk into the shaping bay of pro-snowboarder-turned-shaper Colter Deupree and pick up one of his boards, you might, just for a split second, believe you’re ho