Dyeing And Printing Defects Analysis

Submitted by:Yash Vyas A.P-V

Classification Of Defects
Minor Defect A defect is defined as minor defect that is not likely to reduce the usability of the product, but nevertheless may negatively influence the sales.
The minor defects can be untrimmed

thread-ends, slight dirt in a non-noticeable zone which can be removed, etc.

Classification Of Defects
Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item to be a second. (A "second" is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the salability or serviceability of the item.

Dyeing Defects

Causes Of Dyeing Defects

Due to Material:
Material having dead fibers or other defective fibers. Left over of Chemicals after bleaching etc. Material not properly desized.

Material not properly mercerized. Absorbency of the fabric not proper.

Sticking of insoluble material on the fibers.

Impurities are not removed properly. Uneven heat treatment.

Causes Of Dyeing Defects

Due to Water Quality:
More Hardness of water Water has metal ions such as iron. pH of water not proper Water having more chlorine

Due to Improper Dye Solution:

Improper weight ratio of colors, material and chemicals. Improper material to water ratio Improper filtering of concentrated colors.

Barre
Its horizontal shaded band across the width of
the fabric.

It may be caused by variation in the size of the filling yarn and by the differences in tension of either the filling or warp yarns.

Bleeding
Its a loss of color when the dyed fabric is wetted or emerged in water.
The water here, becomes colored and may cause discoloration of other fabrics. This is usually due to either improper dye selection or poor dye fastness.

Shade Bar
It is a horizontal band of a different hue running across the fabric. It may be caused by a change of filling bobbin in the loom or a loom stop and start up

Shading
It is a variation in color tone either horizontally or vertically. It is generally due to uneven tension on the fabric.

Stained
It indicates a discoloration caused by a foreign substance, dirt, grease, oil or sizing residue on the fabric being dyed.

Hole in sulfur dyed fabric

Caused due to tendering which
takes place because sulphur is converted into sulphuric acid after oxidation which is harmful for the cellulosic fibers.

This is a major defect. The defect

occurred after washing the garment.

Printing Defects

Methods of Printing
1. Block 2. Stencil 3. Screen 4. Flat Press 5. Roller

Flushing/Wicking
Caused due to Low viscosity of print paste.

It occurs when the printed area

bleeds out into the unprinted area. The result is a shadowing effect around the outline of the pattern design.

Bleeding
Caused due to Low viscosity of print paste

It is major defect as it happens

throughout the fabric unless the viscosity is corrected.

Misfits
A misfit is a print defect caused by improper alignment of the
screens. Also known as out of registration, misfits leave unprinted areas in the design. For example, a green leaf may overlap its black outline or print over another color.

Stick-ins
A stick-in occurs when a small fiber or piece of lint gets stuck
in the screen opening.

The result is a small unprinted circle in the design. A stick-in is

very difficult to see and often goes unnoticed during a long run.

Scrimps
A scrimp defect occurs when the fabric creases underneath
one of the screens during the printing process.

The pattern is then printed on top of the crease, leaving a large unprinted area when the fabric returns to its relaxed

state.

Banding
Defect created by the print heads movement over the substrate.
Use of scanning print head, or a print head that moves back and

forth across the substrate in straight line placing drops of ink at

precise locations along the line.

If the head is not properly aligned, or if the substrate advances

unevenly, the result is a slight horizontal band or line of unprinted area.

Unwanted pigment marking on fabric

Caused due to screen has holes in it that should have been

covered. This could be because

of ageing of the screen and eventual damage or just

improper exposure to light.

Back Fabric Seam Impression

Backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric being printed. If
there is a joining seam in the backing fabric, an impression will result on printed fabric.

Color Smear
The result of color being smeared during printing.

Color Out
The result of color running low in reservoir on printing
machine

Mottled
Color applied unevenly during printing

Crack or miss alignment in transfer printed fabric.

Incomplete transfer of design
from paper to fabric on transfer printing due to removal of transfer of paper while the fabric was still hot.

Finishing Defects

FABRIC FINISHING
A series of processing operations applied to

gray fabrics to enhance their appearance and

hand, properties and possible applications.

Play a fundamental role for the commercial

excellence of the results of textiles

FABRIC FINISHING
The most simple form of finishing is the ironing or pressing on the fabric. In finishing , the fabric is subjected to mechanical and chemical treatment in which its quality and appearance are improved and its commercial value enhanced. Physical finishing techniques(dry finishing processes) or chemical finishing methods(wet finishing) are used.

FABRIC FINISHING
Functional finish: Wearability, Hand, Mechanical resistance, Easy care, Wettability, Washability,

Deformability, Anti bacterial, Anti fungal,

Soil-proof and Fire-proof ability Aesthetic finishes: Aesthetic looks

Unwanted marks on fabric.

Oily stains with dust adhered to surface which makes the stains more prominent and difficult to

remove, due to contact with oil

or grease covered exposed machine parts, careless handling could be another cause.

Decolorized patch on fabric

Caused due to
chemical spillage on fabric. Localized excess bleaching. Localized excess enzyme wash.

Can be result into weakening of the fabric.

Pin Holes
Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it
processes through tenter frame.

Major defect if pin holes extend into body of fabric far enough
to be visible in the finished product.

Sanforize Pucker
Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize.
usually caused by defective spray heads.

Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting table. Difficult to detect during inspection on inspection machine with fabric under roller tension.

Bowing
Usually caused by finishing.
Woven filling yarns lie in an arc across fabric width; in knits the course lines lie an arc across width of goods. Establish standards of acceptance. Critical on stripes or patterns; not as critical on solid color fabrics.

Pilling
Pilling is a common fabric defect occurring on knitted and woven fabrics. In producing a yarn, long fibers tightly-twisted produce a serviceable yarn. When short stable fibers are mixed into the yarn the result is a yarn that will not hold together. The short staple fibers will separate from the yarn and curl up in a ball, forming what is referred to as a pill. Pilling is accentuated by the friction of normal wear, washing and routine dry cleaning.

Water Spots
Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long
before drying; color migrates leaving blotchy spots.

Selvage Torn
Usually caused by excessive tension while processing through tenter frames.

Cuts or Nicks
Caused by indifferent handling of scissors. snips or mechanical trimmers.

Seam Tears
Frequently caused by the turning equipment used to reverse garments in finishing.

Soil
Caused by oil, grease or dirt. Often times originating from a dirty work area or machinery not properly cleaned

Streaks
Markings caused by some types of turn boards or defectively finished trimming.

Inadequate Pressing
Caused by excessive heat or pressure resulting in poor pleating, fullness or twisting of a seam on garment surface.

Pressing Producing Shine on Fabric

Usually caused by excessive heat or incorrect type of pressing surface.

Loose threads
Loose threads will get wound on guide rollers forming ridges in the processing machines and cause creases at these places.
Also loose threads can cause problems of Dye /Print transfer in a padding / Printing application

Askewed or Bias
Condition where filling yarns are not square with wrap yarns
on woven fabrics or where courses are not square with wale lines on knits.

Folding Defects
Garment not Folded to Specifications
Garment not Folded with proper Materials:
Cardboard, tissue or other specified packaging materials omitted

Garments not Buttoned, Flys not Closed, Incorrect Number of Pins

Thank You.