Chemistry & Technology of Fabric Preparation & Finishing

The Production of Textiles

Fabric preparation
Fabric preparation has been subdivided into: :
singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, carbonizing and heat setting.

Pretreatment occupies a key position within the textile finishing sector, since almost all textiles undergo pretreatment in the course of their finishing operations and an estimated 60 - 70 % of all faults that appear during subsequent processing are attributable to wrong or inadequate pretreatment.

Finishing
Finishing is broken down into chemical and mechanical Chemical finishing covers those treatments that alter the performance of the textile fabric where the chemical is the major component of the change. Mechanical finishing refers to certain types of mechanical devices that physically alters the fabric..

Fundamental knowledge

Textile Fiber and fabrics Water and surfactants

Textile Fiber & their classification

Department of textile dyeing and finishing
June 2000 R&D\Training\Fibre

1 Textile Products

Filament fiber
20D/1F.30D/1F.40D/1F

60 denier / 52 filament 120denier / 104 filament

yarn
a strand of textile fiber in a form suitable for weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, webbing, or otherwise fabricating into a fabric

Thread
Fine cord of a fibrous material, such as cotton or flax, made of two or more filaments twisted together and used in needlework and the weaving of cloth.

Fabric
any material woven, knitted, felted, or otherwise produced from, or in combination with, any natural or manufactured fiber, yarn, or substitute

Garment

2 Fiber is the basic structural element of textile products , it important to research its properties

Fiber is a slender, elongated, threadlike object The term fiber or textile fiber means a unit of matter which is capable of being spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by bonding or by interlacing[7itE(:)5leis] vt., in a variety of methods including weaving, knitting, braiding , felting, twisting, or webbing. They must have got following Basic Characteristics: Large length to width ratio Strong enough to withstand tensions during process Good elasticity and elongation Good cohesion

3 Classification of Textile Fibres

Textile Fibers
Natural Fibres
Plant fibers Animal fibers
Mineral fibers

Man-made Fibre
Regenerated fibers
Cellulose Rayon Lyocell Modal

Synthetic fibers Polyamides

nylon 6, nylon 6.6 nylon 11

Seed fibres
cotton, kapok

Hair
wool, angora cashmere

Asbestos

[Az5best Rs]

Leaf fibres
sisal pineapple

Silk

It is secretion

Cellulose Esters triacetate diacetate

Polyesters
Dacron, Terylene

Bast fibers
linen ramie hemp

Polyacrylonitrile

[bAs t]

[5pai Apl]

Acrylic, modacrylic

Polyurethanes
Spandex, Lycra

4 Exist state of Fibres

Staple[5steipl] fibres: they are used for spinning Fibres exist in short lengths cotton: 3/8 - 2 1/2 wool: 1 1/2 - 15 for Merino Wool Staple length is 6-11 Filament fibres:. like silk Fibres with lengths of several thousand meters long
They can be used for weaving,knitting or warp-knitting etc.

5 Structure of Fibres

The structure of fibres can be divided into: physical structure, chemical structure and molecular structure

5.1 Physical Structure of Fibres

The physical structure of a fibre is the physical appearance of the fibre. It affects: the spin ability, luster, felting, and the physical properties of the finished fabric

5.2 Chemical Structure

Chemical structure of fibres are the chemical constituents of the fibres such as hydrogen, carbon, oxygen etc It affects properties such as
strength, elongation moisture content dye absorption

5.3 Molecular Structure

Molecular Structure is the manner of how the fibre molecules arrange themselves. Fibers are made of molecules which joins together end to end like a chain. Some of these chains will lie parallel [5pArElel] to each other (crystalline [5kristElai] region) Some are, however arranged at random (amorphous region) The molecular structure of a fibre affects the fibre physical properties such as: strength and elongation moisture absorption dyeing fibre density

6.1 Fibre Properties Fineness

The value of a fibre depends largely on its fineness

Fine fibres are more flexible and softer. Thus yarns made from fine fibres are softer and so are the fabrics and garments.

6.2 Fibre Properties Tenacity[ti5Asiti]

Tenacity is defined as the maximum [5mAksimEm] load a fibre can withstand without breaking when tension is applied along its length. The higher the tenacity, the stronger the fibre and so is the fabric

6.4 Fibre Properties Elasticity

Elasticity is the ability of a fibre to recover from deformation, including bending, extension and creasing. Good elasticity fibres will recover easily from deformation. Garments made from these fibres resist more to creasing and need less or no ironing.

6.5 Fibre Properties Extensibility[iks7tesE5biliti]

Extensibility is the ability of a fibre to extend when it is under tension. Fibres should not have too high or too low extensibility High extensibility makes fabric very extensible and less stable in dimension Low extensibility makes fabric uncomfortable to wear

6.6 Fibre Properties - Abrasion Resistance

This is the resistance to abrasion or rubbing Garments made of fibres with low abrasion resistance wears out faster because of rubbing during use

6.7 Fibre Properties - Moisture Regain

This is the ability of the fibre to absorb moisture Different fibre absorbs moisture differently Garments made with fibres that have a high moisture regain will be more comfortable to wear because they absorb body moisture readily

6.8 Fiber Properties - Resistance to Weathering

This is the resistance to sunlight and moisture. Most fibres will deteriorate if exposed to direct or indirect sunlight for a prolonged period Moisture may need to loss of strength Outdoor products should be made with fabrics with good resistance to weathering

6.9 Fibre Properties - Resistance to Chemicals and Solvents

Strong acids and alkalis usually damage fibres. However they should be able to resist weak acids and alkalis Different solvent dissolve different fibres The choice of dry clean agents are important so as not to dissolve the fibres

7 Important textile fibers and their properties

Cotton Linen wool Rayon Polyamide Polyester Acrylic Elastomer

7.1.1 Physical Properties of Cotton

Length
Color Luster Strength Elasticity Moisture Regain Heat

3/8

21 / 2

Ordinarily white, sometimes cream Very little luster Moderately strong , stronger when wet Relatively inelastic 8.5% at 20 and 65% R.H.relative humidity C Withstand high temperature, turn yellow at 240 O C
O

7.1.2 Chemical Properties of Cotton

Acids Easily damaged by strong acids. Concentrated weak acids do not damaged cotton High resistance to alkalis Highly resistant to most organic solvents Can be dyed with direct, vat, reactive and sulphur dyes

Alkalis Organic solvents Dyeing

7.2.1 Physical Properties of Linen

Length Color Luster Strength Elasticity Moisture Regain Heat 6 40 , good flax should be more than 20 Yellowish-buff to gray Greater luster than cotton Stronger than cotton and gets stronger when wet Not very elastic Higher than cotton, 10-12% at standard atmosphere Similar to cotton

7.2.2 Chemical Properties of Linen

Acids Alkalis
Organic solvents Dyeing

Like cotton it is easily damaged by strong acids Has high resistance to alkalis Resistant to organic solvents Can be dyed with all kinds of cotton dyes but does not dye as good as cotton

7.3.1 Physical Properties of Wool

Length Color Luster Strength Elasticity Moisture Regain Heat 1-20, Most are from 1-8 Usually white but whiteness varies Varies considerably Much less than cotton, Loses of 20% after wet Very elastic. Can be stretched 30% without weakening 16% at standard condition Extended heating in dry air leads to harsh hand and loses strength. But when heated in moisture air, it becomes plastic and can be shaped.

7.3.2 Chemical Properties of Wool

Acids Not easily damaged by acids, but con mineral acids will destroy wool Easily attacked by alkalis. Rapid effect except with weak solutions Not affected by dry-cleaning solvents Dyed with acid, chrome, metallized or reactive dyes

Alkalis Organic solvents Dyeing

7.4.1 Physical Properties of Viscose Rayon

Length Color Luster Strength Elasticity Any length desired Transparent unless dulled by pigment High luster unless delustering pigments are added Fair strength when dry but can be reduced by 50% when wet Varies according to method of manufacturing. In genearl low. Higher than natural cellulose. Around 13% O at standard atmosphere. O Losses strength above 150 C. Decompose between 170 C and 205

Moisture Regain Heat

7.4.2 Properties of Viscose Rayon

Acids Like cotton, easily damaged by strong acids. Hot dilute mineral acids or cold conc acids will disintegrate the fibres Resistant to alkalis. Conc. alkalis will cause swelling and reduce strength Good resistant to dry cleaning solvents Dyes with all cotton dyes but has a much higher affinity than cotton. When dyed together with cotton, the shade will be a lot richer.

Alkalis

Organic solvents Dyeing

7.5.1 Physical Properties of Nylon

Length Color Luster Strength Any length as desired Off white High natural luster Exceptionally high. Not affected by moisture Elasticity Exceptionally high Moisture 3.8% at standard condition. Regain Dries very quickly O Heat Melts at 250 C, slight O yellowing at 148 C

7.5.2 Chemical Properties of Nylon

Acids Weakened by conc strong acids. Disintegrate when boil in 5% hydrochloride acid High resistance to alkalis Resistant to dry-cleaning solvents. Insoluble in acetone but dissolve in conc formic acid Can be dyed with acid, direct, chrome, metallized and reactive dyes

Alkalis Organic solvents

Dyeing

7.6.1 Physical Properties of Polyester

Length Color Luster Strength Can be as long as desired White Can be either bright or dull Good to excellent, one of the strongest fibres used in textile Elasticity Fair to good, less than nylon but greater than cotton & rayon Moisture Very low. Only 0.4% at regain standard condition Heat Soften or stick at above O 204 C

7.6.2 Chemical Properties of Polyester

Acids Alkalis Organic solvents Dyeing Not affected by acids. Good resistance to most acids Good resistance to most alkalis at low pH level Resistant to dry-cleaning solvents Can be dyed by disperse dye or basic dyes with modified polymers.

7.7.1 Physical Properties of Acrylic

Length Color Luster Strength Elasticity Moisture regain Heat As long as desirable White Depends on pigmentation Moderately strong Good and resemble that of wool Around 4% at standard atmosphere Does not have a true melting point but starts to get sticky at O 215-255 C

7.7.2 Chemical Properties of Acrylic

Acids Alkalis Organic solvents Dyeing Excellent resistance to acids. High resistance to alkalis Resistant to dry-cleaning solvents. Basic, disperse and some pre-metallized dyes

7.8.1 Physical Properties of Elastomer

Length Color Luster Strength Elasticity Can be any length White or clear Usually dull luster Low strength compare to other synthetic fibres Excellent. Some can be stretched to 700% and recover totally Less than 1 % Sensitive to heat. O starts at 150 C Sticking

Moisture regain Heat

7.8.2 Chemical Properties of Elastomer

Acids Alkalis Organic solvents Dyeing Good resistance to most acids unless exposed over 24 hours Good resistance to cold alkalis. Hot alkalis will damage spandex Resistant to dry-cleaning solvents Can be dyed with most dyes

8 Yarn

8.1 Yarn means a strand of textile fiber in a form suitable for weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, webbing, or otherwise fabricating [5fAbrikeit] vt. into a fabric.

8.2 Expression of yarn yarn number or yarn count The yarn count expresses the thickness of the yarn, and must be known before calculating the quantity of yarns for a known length of fabric. The yarn count number indicates the length of yarn in relation to the weight. 8.3 Three systems of yarn count are currently in use: the fixed weight; the fixed length and the Tex systems. The fixed weight can be used with British and American weights and systems. The fixed length system and the Tex system are based on metric weights and measures. Tex is an internationally agreed system of yarn numbering that applies to all types of yarns, regardless of the method of production.

8.3.1 The fixed weight yarn count system

The fixed weight yarn count system is used for numbering spun yarns. It is based on the length of the yarn per lb (pound). weight. The greater the length of the yarn weighing 1 lb., the finer it is, and the higher the count number. The count number gives the number of unit lengths, i.e.: skeins, hanks, etc, in 1 lb.;. E.g.: 10 hanks of cotton is abbreviated to 10s cotton. 12 skeins Yorkshire woolen spun is abbreviated to 12s Y.sk(Yorkshire). Yorkshire Wool 256 yds/lb. Linen 300 yds/lb. Worsted 500 yds/lb. Cotton 840 yds/lb. Spun Silk 840 yds/lb.

8.3.2 Plied Yarns

When a yarn is plied, that is, when two yarns of identical count are twisted together, the yarn is twice as thick, and therefore the length of yarn per lb is halved. The numbering of the yarn states both the count of the single component and the number of components that make up the ply. E.g.: 10/2s cotton; the length of this yarn would be 10 x 840 divided by 2 = 4200 yards per lb.

8.3.3The fixed length system

This system in used to number continuous filament yarns, ie: reeled silk and man-made extruded yarns such as rayon. It is based on a fixed yarn length to a variable weight and is measured in deniers. The denier count of a yarn states the weight in grams per 9000 meters. The coarser the yarn, the higher the denier count number becomes. Thus: 9000 meters of 30 denier yarn weighs 30 grams.

8.3.3The Tex system.

The Tex system is also based on the fixed length system. Ie: Weight per unit length. The Tex count represents the weight in grams per 1 kilometer (1000 meters) of yarn. For example, a yarn numbered 10 Tex weighs 10 grams per kilometer. The Tex number increases with the size of the yarn. "Tex". The term "folded" is used in preference to "plied" yarn when two or more yarns are twisted together, and the direction of the twist is included in the formation. E.g.: R 20 Tex/ 2 S two threads of 10 Tex are folded in an "S" direction, therefore the resultant count (R) will be 20 Tex because the weight is exactly doubled.

9 Fabrics and their expression

woven.
it is a cloth which is made by interlacing the threads of the weft and the warp on a loom.

Knitted fabric
Weft knitting(make a sweater) and Warp knitting(hair
braids)

10 Summarize
Textile products

garments

fabrics
woven Knitted fabrics

thread

yarns

fibers

Plain cloth
Twill cloth Satin and sateen cloth

Figured cloth

Knitted and warp knitted cloth