Fabric properties-2

Air permeability Stiffness

AIR PERMEABILITY
Definition- The Air permeability of a fabric is the volume of air measured in cubic centimeters passed per second through 1 cm2 of the fabric at a pressure of 1 cm of water. It is the rate of air flow passing vertically through a known area of material when air pressure difference exists between the two sides of the material. It is a measure of how well fabric allows the passage of air through it.

 Due to weaving or construction of fabric large proportion of total volume occupied by fabric is Airspace. These airspace influences a number of fabric properties like warmth, protection against wind and rain. Air permeability is an important factor in the performance of textile materials such as gas filters, fabrics for clothing, mosquito netting, parachutes, sails & vacuum cleaners. It can be measured as per ASTM D737 standards. Air permeability is used to provide an indication of the breathability of fabrics for weather-resistant and rainproof articles. It is also important for coated fabrics in general to detect changes during the manufacturing process.

 Which factors affect fabrics air permeability? 1)Construction factors - weave have an effect upon air permeability. These cause a change in the length of airflow paths through a fabric 2) Finishing techniques Hot calendaring can be used to flatten fabric components, thus reducing air permeability. Fabrics with different surface textures on either side can have a different air permeability depending upon the direction of air flow. 3) Yarn twist a)For woven fabric, yarn twist is important. As twist increases density of the yarn increases, thus reducing the yarn diameter and the cover factor and increasing the air permeability.

 B) Increasing yarn twist also may allow the more circular, high-density yarns to be packed closely together in a tightly woven structure with reduced air permeability. For example, a worsted gabardine fabric may have lower air permeability than a woollen hopsacking fabric. 4) Yarn crimp and weave influence the shape and area of the intersections between yarns and may allow yarns to extend easily. Such yarn extension would open up the fabric, increase the free area, and increase the air permeability.

How to measure Air Permeability?

Conditioned samples are used in Shirley Air Permeability Apparatus. The samples are clamped over the air inlet of the apparatus with rubber gaskets and air is sucked through it with help of pump from one side of the sample. Air pressure is increased on one side of the material. The change in air pressure on the other side is measured with help of flow meter. The average rate of flow is calculated from five samples.

LOADING
The application of a force to an object is known as loading. Materials can be subjected to many different loading scenarios and a materials performance is dependant on the loading conditions. There are five fundamental loading conditions; tension, compression, bending, shear, and torsion. 1)Tension is the type of loading in which the two sections of material on either side of a plane tend to be pulled apart or elongated. 2)Compression is the reverse of tensile loading and involves pressing the material together. 3) Loading by bending involves applying a load in a manner that causes a material to curve and results in compressing the material on one side and stretching it on the other.

Five Fundamental Loading Conditions

 4)Shear involves applying a load parallel to a plane which caused the material on one side of the plane to want to slide across the material on the other side of the plane. 5)Torsion is the application of a force that causes twisting in a material. If a material is subjected to a constant force, it is called static loading. If the loading of the material is not constant but instead fluctuates, it is called dynamic or cyclic loading. The way a material is loaded greatly affects its mechanical properties like stiffness ,crease recovery etc.

FABRIC STIFFNESS

What is fabric stiffness and how it can be measured?

Stiffness is mostly assessed with hand . It is directly related to fabric drape as it provides resistance to roll in waistbands , resistance to wrinkling, comfort and aesthetics. Def.-It is a measure of a fabrics resistance to bending or flexing. More force, energy or work required to bend a fabric , more stiff is the fabric as compared to pliable fabric . A form of Cantilever stiffness test is used to measure fabrics stiffness.

 The Cantilever Test Option is the preferred procedure because it is simpler to perform. It is, not suitable for very limp fabrics or those that show tendency to curl or twist at a cut edge. Fabric is tested as per ASTM D1388 standard. The sample is cut as per the template and a horizontal strip is clamped at one end and rest of the strip is allowed to hang under its own weight. A) Bending length is measured from the point where fabric bends under its weight to form a 41.5 degree angle. It is measure of stiffness that determines draping quality. The relationship among length of overhanging strip(Bending length) , the angle that it bends to are complex phenomenon.

 B)Flexural rigidity (G) - is calculated using fabric mass and bending length. It is a measure of stiffness associated with handle. Def.of Flexural Rigidity is the ratio of small change in bending moment per unit width of the material to the corresponding small changes in curvature. G= M x C(3) x 9.807 x 10(-6)Nm Where C= bending length in mm M=fabric mass per unit area (g/m2) C) Bending Modulus (q)- The stiffness of a fabric is dependent on its thickness. Thicker the fabric stiffer it is if all other factors remain same. It is a measure of Intrinsic stiffness. q = 12x G x 10(3)/ T (3) Nm(2) Where T= Fabric thickness(mm)

 Fabric stiffness may change with storage. No evidence has been found showing that bending length is dependent on the whole width of fabric. The tendency for specimens to curl or twist will affect the result, because of the rigidity provided at the edge. Consequently, the wider the strip, the less important is the edge effect.